SPME -2

FINAL
ASSIGNMENT
TOPIC: FINAL REPORT ON
MANUFACTURING OF
GARMENT DENIM (CARGO
JEANS)

BY: ISHIKA MALU

&
RIYA PREMI
 TABLE OF
CONTENTS
LISTED BELOW ARE THE PAGE NUMBERS OF
CONTENT IN THIS REPORT

PAGE NO./CONTENTS
3 : GARMENT SPECIFICATIONS
4 : INSPECTION
5: SPREADING TABLES
7 : SPREADING MACHINES
10: CUTTING MACHINES
16: SPECIAL CUTTING M/C
17: TYPE OF FUSING
18: BED TYPES
19: FEED TYPES
20: SEWING M/C USED
28: SPECIAL SEWING M/C
31: TYPE OF THROAT PLATE
32: TYPE OF PRESSURE FOOT
33: TYPE OF FOLDERS
34: SEAMS & STITCHES
35:TYPE OF NEEDLES
36: TYPE SEAM PUCKERING
37: DENIM WASHING
38: REFERENCES
 FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS OF
COMPOSITION
GARMENT
PRODUCT : DENIM
CARGO(JEANS)
MATERIAL : 100% COTTON
COLOU :CHARCOAL BLACK
TYPE OF WEAVE : TWILL
WEAVE
TYPE OF DENIM : MEDIUM
WEIGHT
GSM :200-250

PRODUCT
DESCRIPTION

COMPANY :DNMX
CATEGORY : MENS
NO. OF POCKETS : 8
POCKETS
ZIPPERS ATTACHED: 5
ZIPPERS (1 METAL& 4
PLASTIC)
FIT :SLIM FIT
SIZE: 32
CARE LABLE TYPE :
FOLDED (PAPER LABLE
(PRINTED))
COMPANY TAG: 4 WAY
STITCHED (WOVEN)
NO. OF BUTTONS : 1
FUSING: WAISTBAND
TYPES OF INTERLINING:
FUSIBLE (NON WOVEN)
THREAD TYPE:
POLYESTER+COTTON
COLOUR OF THREAD :
CHARCOAL BLACK
 VOLUME 3, ISSUE 3

INSPECTION

AUTOMATED VISUAL INSPECTION

WebSPECTOR from Shelton is the most advanced system for fabric inspection
IQ-TEX 4 by EVS is a fully integrated image acquisition and processing system, built on speed
up to 100 meters per minute, I-TEX2000D inspects 100% of the fabric. The system is also
capable of inspecting modern denim styles such as cross denim, multi-color, bicolor and
more.
Defects that are as small as 0.5mm can also be detected by the system. The following are
some multiple denim defect types:
Yarn and weaving faults
Holes
Oil stains
Missing threads
Starting marks
Broken yarns
The system can detect virtually any visible defect.
Specifications
Camera: CMOS technology - 10 pixel/mm
Single panel looms (max 280 cm)- single camera double panel looms (max 500 cm) - dual
camera
Illumination: infrared LED - option: blue LED allowing the detection of stains
Scanning speed - standard version: 18 cm/sec, high speed version: 54 cm/sec
Window: 60 x 45 mm
Automatic calibration
Communication with the loom: VDI, Ethernet, TCP/IP
Integration with the QualiMaster system
 AUTOMATIC
SPREADING
MACHINES

Fully automated spreading is

done in huge scale
production houses where the
cost and maintenance of this
fully automated spreader are
justified due to the bulk of DESCRIPTION
production. This fully The Eastman ES-880 Series Spreading
automated spreading System is suitable for all types of woven
fabrics, and offers multiple functions for fast
machine is used where high
and easy spreading heights up to 7.9” (20cm).
quality and quick work is Available in several sizes, the ES-800 is the
required to meet customer perfect solution for accurate spreads.
satisfaction. In the fully • Spread one-way (face-up) or zig zag (face-
automated spreading to-face)
• One-man operating
machine, the operators set all
• Dual material feeding to eliminate
the parameters on a control stretching
panel such as length of the • Static eliminator
lay, spreading speed, the • Special cloth bar to remove air from nylons
tension of the fabric lay. The • Good for woven fabrics
spreading machine will • Two-way catcher for dual-way spreading
• Auto cutting control
automatically spread the lay
• Auto edge alignment
of the guided length in • Auto Up & Down control
control panel, will cut the ply
at the end, counts the Additional Information
number of plies itself, and will Spreading Width - Max : ES-800/6 ft. – 64 in.
stop after laying the required (1635mm) ES-880/7 ft. – 76 in. (1935mm) ES-
880/8 ft. – 88 in. (2255mm)
number of plies.
Table Width : ES-660/6 ft. – 72 in. (1830mm)
The speed of spreading ES-660/7 ft. – 84 in. (2130mm) ES-660/8 ft. –
depends on fabric properties. 96 in. (2430mm)
Fully automated spreading is Spreading Speed : 106 yard / min. (97m / min)
almost three times faster than Maximum Spread Height : 7.87 in. (20 cm)
the manual spreading Pass through Height : 9.05 in. (23cm)
Spread Length Accuracy : .11 in. (+/- 3mm)
process.
 CUTTING MACHINES
USED
Cutting is the process of separating a spread
into garment parts that are precise in size and
shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. It may
involve transferring marks and notches from
the marker to the garment parts to assist
operators during sewing. The spread can also
be cut into sections or blocks which are then
given precision cut. Cutting may also involve
preparing sections of piece goods for special
operations such as screen printing especially in
case of T-shirts with chest print.
Cutting can either be manual or automated.
Cutting depends on the skill of the operator.
These equipment’s can be portable or
stationary. Portable knives are moved through
the spread while the stationery cutters require
the operator to position and control fabric
blocks in through the blade. There are two
types of portable cutting knives, mainly the
vertical reciprocating straight knife and round
knife.
 AUGUST 22, 2019 VOL. 29

SPECIALISED CUTTING
MACHINES
SPECIALISED CUTTING MACHINES THAT CAN BE USED

SPECIFICATIONS
AUTO CUTTER
CUTTING AREA WIDTH: 25X: 78 INCHES
Auto cutters are also known as computer controlled cutting machine (2.0 M) ,75X: (76.6 IN. (1.95 M)
(CNC cutters). Presently, they are the fastest and most precise means OVERALL MACHINE WIDTH: 111 INCHES
of cutting fabric lays for garment production. The cutting table of a (2.84 M)
CUTTING AREA LENGTH: 5.5 FT. (1.68 M)
computer-controlled cutter is made of nylon bristles. The nylon
OVERALL MACHINE LENGTH: 13 FT.
bristles are flexible. (3.96M); 4 FT. (1.22M) UNLOADING
CONVEYOR
Tool Head DRIVE SYSTEM: DUAL-X AXIS, Y-AXIS &
The Talon Tool Head, patent pending THETA AXIS.
Quick change knife and sharpening disc X-AXIS RACK & PINION DRIVE, Y-AXIS
BELT DRIVE
Reciprocating knife provides precise vertical stroke cutting
BRUSHLESS SERVO MOTORS
Intellicut knife control software ensures high-quality, precise cuts MAX. THICKNESS OF COMPRESSED
from top to bottom ply MATERIAL:25X: 1.18 IN. (3 CM), 75X: 3.0
Talon 25x: can cut up to 1.18 in. (3 cm) of compressed material (7.5 CM)
ELECTRIC - CONTROL POWER:
goods
208/230/380/460/575V, 3 PH, 50/60 HZ,
Talon 75x: can cut up to 3 in. (7 cm) of compressed material goods 9.0 KVA
Single coated diamond disc provides the perfect cutting edge. ELECTRIC - VACUUM BLOWER:
Sharpener can be adjusted to user defined angle. 208/230/380/460/575V, 50/60 HZ, 25
HP, VFD CONTROL
High-speed-single or dual pneumatic drills
PNEUMATIC: 90 PSI (6.2 BARS), 18 CFM
Internal crank cooling system reduces heat and wear/tear MAXIMUM CUTTING SPEED: UP TO 60
Easy access to knife system and assembly parts simplifies daily IN./SEC (152.4 CM/SECOND) – MATERIAL
maintenance procedures DEPENDENT
MAXIMUM CONVEYOR SPEED: 8 IN./SEC.
Direct drive knife system for fewer moving parts and less wear and
(20.3CM/MIN)
tear MAXIMUM ACCELERATION: 1.0 G
Blade wear monitor SOUND LEVEL: <76 DB(A)
Control of corners to minimize fusing OPERATING TEMPERATURE: 55 – 100°F
(12 – 37°C)
HUMIDITY: 20-80% (NON-CONDENSING)
 Methods of Fusing
Sandwich Fusing
In Sandwich fusing, two components
are fused in one operation.

TYPE OF FUSING
Non-woven
Some of these can be cut multi-
directionally and are therefore, very
economical. They are also very resilient,
have good crease recovery and excellent
shape retention. For these reasons, they
have replaced, to some extent, the
traditional canvases particularly in ladies
wear, but also in some menswear. The
main advantage of non-woven is their low
resistance to abrasion.

FLATBED FUSING PRESS

In this machine, there are generally two beds; one bed is static called ‘BUCK,’ and the other is
moveable called ‘HEAD.’ The interlining and garment component is positioned first and placed on the
BUCK. The top of the BUCK is covered by some soft bead made of fabrics, blankets, or silicon
rubbers. The surface buck and head are covered with fabrics having a coating of PTFE. For this
coating, the melted resins, dust, or spots can easily be cleaned.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

For Multi-Purpose, can do all types of fusing - light and heavy, transfer printing, leather
foil lamination, Swarovski work etc.

Features:
Flat Bed Fusing Machine AG 964 Ultra-Premium
This model comes with strong suction in a lower buck for instant
Cooling to optimize the bond strength and prevents any finger impressions on the
freshly fused fabric.
Pedal suction also helps in holding the interlining and fabric in place during the entire
fusing operation.
Both Timer and Pedal Controlled to provide perfect fusing and enhance agility and ease
of operation.
Fusing machine designed in almost 100% Aluminum body, Light Weight,
A special type of aluminium upper buck helps in attaining quick and uniform
temperature & high pressure.
The lower buck is designed with five special shock absorbers that enable high quality
and even fusing of embroidered garments,
Leather & uneven garments.
 OPERATIONAL BREAKDOWN

Machine name abbreviation: Machine name abbreviation:

SNLS - Single Needle Lock Stitch ALAM : automatic label attaching
DNLS - Double Needle Lock Stitch machine
O/L - Over lock Machine ASBM :- automatic snap button attaching
M/c - Machine machine
L/S - Lock Stitch
APWM- Automatic Pocket Welding Machine
BLA m/c- Belt Loop attaching machine
 SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH MACHINE

A lockstitch is the most common mechanical stitch made by a sewing

machine and this machine is called lock stitch sewing machine. Single Needle
Lock Stitch Sewing Machine: It is the simple and most common machine used
for shirt and other garments which require flawless stitching on seam and
hemlines. It create less noise as compared to other machine. It is fast speed,
steady and enduring especially when sewing jeans and decorative parts.
Steady and beautiful in stitch, free adjusting available. Single needle bar
discrete design, easy for sewing turning. A thread tension regulator is provide
for adjusting the tension of thread. New highly reliable thread-trimming
mechanism is introduced.

SPECIFICATIONS
Two thread need for a machine, one for needle and another
one for bobbin Needle thread set in the upper side of fabric
and bobbin thread set in the lower side of the fabric in stitch
Stitching type only lock stitch Machine speed is 4000-5000
RPM , 1 needle in every machine . Edge cutting, automatic
bobbin winding Less noise, low vibration, no radiation, and
environment-friendly , SPI generally 7-9
 DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH MACHINE

A double needle lockstitch machine works on the same principle as the single
needle machine by using two needles and two bobbins thus resulting in two
parallel rows of lockstitch. This technique of twin needle sewing is also
popularly known as double needle sewing.

SPECIFICATIONS
HOOK: Vertical Axis REGULAR Hook
LUBRICATION: Semi-Dry with Minute-Quantity Lubrication on Hook with a
Tank System
MAX SEWING SPEED: 3,000 SPM
MAX STITCH LENGTH: 5 mm Adjustable by Dial
THREAD WINDER: Built-In
PRESSER FOOT LIFT: 13mm by Knee, 7mm by Hand
NEEDLE SYSTEM: DPx5
NEEDLE SIZES: #9 to #16 (#14 standard) on "S" Subclass, #16 to # 23 (#21
standard) on "G" subclass

AREAS ON WHICH DNLS USED :

BACK POCKETS
WAISTBAND ATTACHING
COIN POCKET
 OVER EDGING MACHINE

WThese are also called sergers in North America. Some machines are also
available without cutters. These machines run at a high speed from 1000-9000
rpm. These are mostly used in industries for edging hemming and seaming.
These machines have fewer functions than sewing machines. They use 2-9
threads and multiple needles to create an overcast stitch. They are an
addition to regular sewing machines, not a replacement. They are used for
decorations, over locking, and is also called overedging, merrowing.

SPECIFICATIONS
These type of machines sew over the edge of one two pieces of
cloth for edging, hemming or seaming. They automatically cut
the edges and sew. The cutters present in overlock machines
allows these machines to create thickened seams easily and
quickly. These are also called sergers in North America. Some
machines are also available without cutters. These machines
run at a high speed from 1000-9000 rpm. These are mostly used
in industries for edging hemming and seaming.
 5 thread SERGER

SPECIFICATIONS
Stitch type: 2-needle overlock
Stitch style in the U.S.A.: 516
Max. sewing speed :7,000rpm
Stitch length : 1.5 - 4mm
Needle gauge (mm): 2.0, 2.4, 3.2
Overedging width (mm) : 3.2, 4.0, 4.8
Differential feed ratio :For gathering
1:2 (Max. 1:4), For stretching 1:0.7 (Max.
1:0.6)
Needle bar stroke: 24.5mm
Inclination angle of the needle: 20°
Needle mechanism: Needle bar
method and upper/lower bushing
The machine incorporates various Needle: DC27 (excluding some
mechanisms as standard, such as a subclass model)
Max. lift of the presser foot :7mm
differential-feed micro-adjustment
(excluding some subclass model)
mechanism and an external Max. presser foot pressure: 63.7N
adjustment mechanism for adjusting (6.5kg)
the feed dog inclination as well as Stitch adjusting method: By push-
increasing the differential feed ratio, button
Differential-feed adjusting method:
which can be easily adjusted to finish
By lever (with micro-adjustment)
seams that perfectly match the
Lubrication: Automatic
material to be used. Comfortable Lubricating oil: JUKI Machine Oil 18
operation is all but guaranteed, by a (equivalent to ISO VG18)
wider area around the needle entry, Sewing Machine Setup:
the adoption as standard of a micro- This machine ships complete and
fully assembled - ready to sew upon
lifter feature that offers improved
arrival.
responsiveness to materials and Sewing Machine Voltage MOTOR &
provides the operator with upgraded VOLTAGE: This machine is equiped
operability, and by the reduction of with a SERVO motor operating on
operating noise and vibration, which standard 110 Volts power.

has been achieved by designing an

optimally balanced machine.
 belt loop attachment machine

SPECIFICATIONS
Machine head :Computer-controlled, DNL
bartacking machine
Max. sewing speed: 2,500sti/min*
Thread take up: Link type
Needle bar stroke: 45.7mm
Hook: Horizontal-axis 1.8 fold-capacity
shuttle hook
Lift of the presser foot: 21mm
Number of stitches: 28, 36, 42 (selectable
on the operating panel)
Needle gauge : 43~70mm (1-11/16"~2-3/4")
Bartacking length : 7~22mm (9/32"~55/64")
‹adjustable in increments of 0.1mm›
Belt loop attachment in jeans is one of the
Bartacking width: 1~3.2mm (3/64"~1/8")
final operations to be done. Therefore, it is ‹adjustable in increments of 0.1mm›
of special significance, because making Belt-loop width: 9~20mm (23/64"~25/32")
mistakes at this level is certainly not Finished length of belt-loop: 48~78mm (1-
acceptable when already a lot of 57/64"~3-5/64")
investment in terms of time and money has Machine time: 1.2 sec./belt-loop (28 stitch)
been put into the garment. If we look at a Positioning of the front hook: Driven by
typical description of the operation, its motor(the distance between the hook can
be established in increments of 0.01mm)
making a long belt out of which small
Bobbin winder: Electric type (provided as
length strips are cut and attached by a
standard)
bartack machine. Quality issues like wrong Lubrication: Centralized oil wick
alignment or unacceptable finish are lubrication (machine head)
different issues to be dealt with. Doing this POWER CONSUMPTION: 200~240V/350VA
operation manually may result in less Compressed air and air consumption
output than targeted, while an investment 0.5MPa (5kgf/cm²), 32Nl/min
in automated operations may bring definite Total weight: 230kg
Dimensions:
returns.
1,200mm(W)×800mm (D)×1,350mm (H: in its
lowest end)
AUGUST 22, 2019 VOL. 29

EYELET HOLE MACHINE

FEATURES SPECIFICATIONS
STITCHING SHAPE PATTERNS
Machine time is substantially reduced THE MACHINE IS PROVIDED AS STANDARD WITH
12 DIFFERENT STITCHING SHAPE PATTERNS OF
Reliable overall thread-trimming and needle EYELET BUTTONHOLE.
AS MANY AS 87 DIFFERENT PATTERNS CAN BE
thread-trimming mechanism STORED IN MEMORY AND SELECTED.
STITCH SYSTEM :1-NEEDLE, DOUBLE
Direct-drive motor is adopted CHAINSTITCH (WITH GIMP)
SEWING SPEED: 400~2,500STI/MIN*
An active tension mechanism that STITCH LENGTH: 10~38MM (NEEDLE THREAD
TRIMMING TYPE)
electronically controls the needle thread 10~34MM (OVERALL THREAD TRIMMING TYPE)
NEEDLE THROWING WIDTH:MECHANICAL
tensions ADJUSTMENT OF THE NEEDLE THROWING WIDTH :
2.0~4.0MM COMPENSATION OF THE NEEDLE
Needle thread tension can be separately THROWING WIDTH (BY DRIVED FEEDING TABLE) :
1.5~5.0MM
established for various sections of a buttonhole TAPER BAR LENGTH:3~15MM
WORK CLAMP HEIGHT: 13MM
such as eyelet sections and parallel sections BUTTONHOLE CUTTING METHOD: BY CUT-
BEFORE KNIFE OR CUT-AFTER OR WITHOUT
Management of sewing performance and sewing BUTTONHOLE CUTTING
CLOTH CUTTING KNIFE DRIVE SYSTEM
machine by the utilization of IoT (Internet of PNEUMATIC
Things) COMPRESSED AIR: MAIN REGULATOR : 0.5 MPA
HAMMER PRESSURE REGULATOR : 0.35 MPA
Management, browsing and editing of data can (STANDARD), 0.4 MPA (MAX)
AIR CONSUMPTION
be carried out on the application software 49.5 L/MIN (11.6 CYCLE/MIN)
POWER REQUIREMENT AND POWER
The machine is provided as standard with an CONSUMPTION
SINGLE-/3-PHASE 200-240V, 250VA
LED light WEIGHT
MACHINE HEAD : 110KG, OPERATION PANEL :
Latch type bottom cover 0.3KG, CONTROL BOX : 5KG
DIMENSIONS
MACHINE HEAD : 382MM (W) × 656MM (D) ×
584MM (H)
COMPLETED-PRODUCT : 1,050MM (W) × 700MM
(D) × 1,248MM (H) (THREAD STAND IS NOT
INCLUDED)
 automatic snap button
MACHINE

SPECIFICATIONS
FEATURES
JEANS BUTTON AUTOMATIC SNAP
It is automatic feeding fasteners which adopt automatic FASTENER MACHINE RM-J70S JEANS
feeder to select jeans snap button and sends it to the BUTTON AUTOMATIC SNAP FASTENER
processing position, the whole process is done MACHINE CAN AUTOMATICALLY FEED
automatically. JEANS SNAP BUTTON, TO ATTACHING THE
JEANS BUTTON OR TACK BUTTON ON
This machine is fully automatic driven, two actions need to
JEANS CLOTHING MATERIAL
be done by labors.
AUTOMATICALLY. THIS MACHINE IS
Feed jeans snap button in the feeder, no need feed piece by EQUIPPED WITH A SAFETY DEVICE AND
piece manually, POSITIONING LASER LIGHT. THE
Step on feet pedal. MAXIMUM CAPACITY COULD REACH 6000
Jeans Button Automatic Snap Press Machine will perform PCS/HOUR.
stable processing, low noise. Automatic snap press machine
is the latest technology for setting button on clothing. APPLICATIONS
Save labor cost. Automatic feeding jeans snap fasteners for AVAILABLE FOR SETTING RIVETS BUTTON,
more efficient processing. JEANS BUTTON AUTOMATICALLY.
Easy operation. No need manually feed snap button piece AUTOMATIC JEANS BUTTON ATTACHING
by piece. MACHINE RM-J70S IS WIDELY USED FOR
Safety devises for preventing human injury. Advanced servo ATTACHING SNAP ONTO JEANS
computer system, with the EU security certification anti-hit PRODUCTS, GARMENTS, JACKETS JEANS,
hand sensor function. RAINCOATS, BAGS, DIAPERS, DOWN
JACKET, CASUAL WEAR, WORK SUITS,
Raser light for positioning.
ETC.
Mode selection: Singles and even play two dozen button
CE CERTIFICATE: YES
mode. Automatic and manual two button mode. SNAP TYPE: JEANS BUTTON, TACK
Adjustable button speed, adjustable feeding motor time. BUTTON
Bearing: The use of best quality bearing, wear-resistant CONTROL: ADVANCED SERVO COMPUTER
degree of similar bearing 8-10 times. SYSTEM
Molds adopt alloy steel KD11 material. MAX. CAPACITY: 6000 PCS/HOUR
Take small area, easy maintenance, very easy to replace THROAT DEPTH: 130MM
worn parts by workers. DRIVEN POWER: ELECTRIC DRIVEN
MOTOR: 375W
VOLTAGE: CUSTOMIZED 100V-240V 1
PHASE/380V-415V 3 PHASES 50/60 HZ
DIMENSIONS: 600×680×1700 MM
NET WEIGHT: 186 KGS
 BAR TACKING
SEWING MACHINE

In sewing bar tach is known as a series of

stitches made to hide any wear or tear in
garments. The typical areas of bar tack
stitches are buttonholes, belt loops,
pocket openings, pleats, corners of
collars. Bar tacks can also be done by
hand using whip stitches or by machines
using zig zag stitches. These type of
machines mostly used for increasing
strength in the corner of pockets,
attaching belt loops, at the end of the
zipper.

LABEL SEWERS

A simple label sewer will

perform zig-zag stitches to a
predetermined length on one or
two edges of a label.
Advanced machines are
programmable profile stitchers,
that can sew a wide range of
shapes and sizes of label.
When a label has to be sewn over
the inside pocket of a jacket, a
special label sewer with cylinder
bed is used.
THE LAMPLIGHT APRIL 2020 | VOLUME 1

SPECIAL SEWING
MACHINES
SPECIFICATIONS OF SPECIAL SEWING MACHINES

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

AUTO POCKET WELDING

AUTO SERGER AUTOMATIC DART MACHINE
MACHINE

AUTO SERGER AUTO DART MACHINE AUTO POCKET WELDING

MACHINE
Usage/Application
Textile Industry
Automation Grade
Automatic 1: Ergonomically designed Sewing Speed (Stitches Per
Max Sewing Speed structure for good rigidity and Minute)
5000-6000 stitch/min weight ratio. 3000
Stitch Type 2: BT-30 / BBT-30 spindle. Voltage
1,2,3-needle overlock 3: 12 tool ATC. 230
Stitch length 4: Chip to chip time of 2.7 sec. Mode
0.6-3.8mm 5: Disc armless type tool Automatic
Overedging width changing system.
4.0mmm 6: 50 / 50 / 40 m/min rapid rate SPI
Differential feed ratio for X/Y/Z axes. Adjustable
Gathering 12,Stretching 10.7 7: High Spindle speed of 8000
Needle DCx27 (excluding some rpm or 10000 rpm.
subclass model)
AUTOMATIC PATCH POCKET J-STITCH MACHINE
ATTACHING MACHINE

Max. sewing speed

SPM 5000
Max. stitch length
mm 5
Needle Bar Stroke
mm 30.7
Feed Dog Height
mm 0.8
Lift of the Pressure Foot
mm1st step: max.8.5
2nd step: max.13.5
Size of Bed
mm 517 X 178
Machine head drive
Compact AC Servo motor

Power Consumption
VA 520
Sewing Speed:
Power Consumption
kW 0.442 2700 r.p.m
Sewing Area:
300x200mm
Production for J-Stitch:
240-360 pcs/hour
Stitch Length:
0.05-12.7mm
Power:
1.2 KW
Weight:
240 KGS
Packing Size:
155x145x125 cm
 The needle opening in the
TYPE OF THROAT standard (zigzag) stitch plate is

PLATE TO BE USED IN open to accommodate the width of

your machine’s widest stitch. It’s
STITCHING CARGO also wonderful for free-motion

DENIMS quilting, supplying extra support

under the fabric around the
needle.
Any type if throat plate from a long list of Applications of straight stitch plate
available throat plates can be used. Mostly used :-
in the industry for sewing medium weight denim For straight stitching over thick
is a Straight Stitch Plate. seams and on multilayer
materials
The Straight stitch plate for your machine is one For denim, canvas, travel
of the very best accessories to help improve bags, etc.
machine piecing and machine quilting. For optimal results, use the
straight-stitch plate
This throat plate is especially suited for sewing For 5.5 mm and 9 mm
straight-stitched seams in tough, heavy fabrics machines
such as denim, linen or canvas. Multi-layered
fabrics also benefit from its special design.

Throat plate is a basic component of

sewing machine. Sometimes it is called
needle plate or stitching plate. It is a
flat metal piece below the presser foot.
Throat plate placed under the machines
needle and presser foot.
TYPE OF PRESSURE
FOOT USED

A presser foot is an attachment

used with sewing machines to
hold fabric flat as it is fed
through the machine and
stitched. A presser foot keeps
the fabric flat so that it does not
rise and fall with the needle and
pucker as it is stitched. When
especially thick workpieces are
to be sewn, such as quilts, a
specialized attachment called a
walking foot is often used rather
than a presser foot.

Denim can stretch while you sew it: try a

teflon foot (like the one for vinyl) that will
help fabric feed smoothly without (or with
less) friction.
Another solution can be a walking foot,
that, eventually, can help your top layers to
feed over your sewing foot at the same time
of the lower layers, right above the feed
dogs. Mostly in the industry walking foot is
used to stitch denims.

ZIPPER FOOT can be used to attach zipper

to the denims to minimise the work load
and for more productivity .

SHIRRING FOOT (GATHERING FOOT) can be

used on the bottom hem of the cargo to
make gathers as it needs absolutely no
skills and can be used to increase
productivity .
FOLDERS TO BE USED
IN THE PROCESS OF STITCHING DENIM CARGO

Heavy folder (0.45mm to 1.5mm thickness)–twill, corduroy, rib knit, A folder is an attachment
interlock knit, denim to a sewing machine for
TWO PIECE WAISTBAND FOLDER can be used to stitch the waistband bending and folding the

effortlessly and saved time also don't need any special skills . It is used fabric previous to
sewing. It belongs to the
for attaching waistband by using double needle lockstitch machine. It
category of work aids
binds seam on the waistband.
(Additional devices that
BELT LOOP FOLDER Attaching belt loops to denim is a precise work to
can be added to basic
do and can be easily achieved by belt looper folder It is used for
sewing
preparing belt loop by using a single needle lock stitch machine.
machines)generally used
CLOSE SIDE SEAM FOLDER Flat Bed Style Feed Off The Arm Style Have in situations where
width adjustment to allow operator Available with spring front to allow fabric must be fold prior
seam clearance Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or to sewing. Can be used
heavy capacity. for folds ranging from
LAP SEAM FOLDER WITH PIPING Used to attach ready made trim or simple to complex.
piping to leg seam IMITATION LAP SEAM Produces an Imitation Lap Different types of folders

Seam for decorative effects available in different size

and thickness. The
RISER SEAM FOLDER Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a
thickness of the folder is
very close stitch margin .Available with spring front to allow seam
selected depends on the
clearance Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy
type of fabric.
capacity FLAT BED STYLE FEED OF THE ARM STYLE.
 SEAMS/
STITCHES
IDENTIFIED

LAPPED FLAT FELLED SERGING

SEAM SEAM Serging also known as overlock is
a kind of stitch that sews over the
A lapped seam is typically used A flat-felled seam is an extremely
edge of one or two pieces of cloth
with fabrics that don’t fray, such strong closed seam that is often
for edging, hemming, or seaming.
as leather and fleece. For a lapped used for items like jeans. It covers
Usually an overlock sewing
seam, the right side of the fabric the fabric’s raw edges well and
machine will cut the edges of the
faces up and the pieces overlap, keeps the seam flat. Like the
cloth as they are fed through,
instead of right or wrong sides french seam, it is a double-
though some are made without
together. stitched, closed seam.
cutters

TOPSTITCHING

Topstitching is a sewing technique where the line of

stitching is designed to be seen from the outside of the
garment, either decorative or functional.
Topstitching is used most often on garment edges such as
necklines and hems, where it helps facings to stay in place
and gives a crisp edge. It can also be used to attach details
like pockets or tabs on zippers, especially on bags.
Decorative topstitching is designed to show, and may be
done in a fancy thread or with a special type of stitch.
 NEEDLES:

LISTED MAIN NEEDLES USED

IN MANUFACTURING OF
CARGO DENIM JEANS.

Ball Point Needles

Ballpoint needles can be used for
tightly woven fabrics and knit
fabrics with a lower stretch factor.
They can be used for cotton,
polyester and polyester cotton. As
the name suggests their tip is
rounded enabling it to slip
through fibers without cutting
through them.

Topstitching Needles

TYPES OF NEEDLE Top stitching needles have large

eyes for thick thread and are

USED
strengthened. Since topstitching
is done on the edge, there will be
several layers to sew through.

Jeans Needles (Denim

Needles)
Sewing machine needle sizes vary by the needle’s thickness. A These of course are for sewing
thicker needle can sew through thicker fabrics. Thinner needles, of denim which is thick and dense.
course, are most suited to fine fabrics such as silk and chiffon. The They often come in thicker
sewing machine needle sizes and
needle’s purpose such as for sewing stretch fabrics or topstitching
are strong enough to sew a pair
or sewing denim. Leather needs specialized needles to pierce. Often
of jeans or overalls.
different fabrics and purposes require different shaped tips in order
to best penetrate the fabric fibers.
HERE ARE THE TYPES OF NEEDLE USED IN SEWING DENIM
(CARGO JEANS)

September 2019 Issue 06

 M A R . 2 0 2 0 | V O L . 5 6

ENZYME WASHING
DENIM WASHING IS THE MAIN STEP IN MANUFCTURING OF
DENIMS IN THE GARMENT WE SELECTED (DENIM CARGO) IS
ENZYME WASH

WHAT IS ENZYME
WASHING?

Enzyme washing is a
laundering process which
uses enzymes to soften and
finish fabric; providing
jeans and other garments
with a worn-in look and
feel. The use of enzymes
comes with various benefits
both economically and
environmentally. Enzyme
can be used for garment
washing as well as fabric
washing.

OBJECTIVE | MERITS
OBJECTIVES
1. To remove the starch present on the garments.
2. To remove the size material from the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments.
4. For increasing the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
5. To improve the anti-pilling properties.
6. To achieve a very smooth surface of the garments.
MERITS
1. Environmental friendly wash.
2. Increased luster.
3. Less damage of seams.
4. Less corrosive.
5. Soft feeling to wear.
6. Prevents the tendency of pilling after a relatively short period of
wear.
 ENZYME WASHING
PROCESS FLOW CHART

Loading of garments

Desizing

Rinse (Two times)

Addition of enzyme

Adjusting pH for Acid Cellulase or enzyme (4.5-5.5) by

adding Acetic acid (CH3COOH).

The required temperature kept for different enzyme

Tumbling for 30-60 minutes (depending on shade)

Rinse (two times)

Softening & Extracting

Drying
 STONE WASHING
DENIM WASHING IS THE MAIN STEP IN MANUFCTURING OF
DENIMS IN THE GARMENT WE SELECTED (DENIM CARGO) IS
ENZYME WASH

SPECIFICATIONS

Capacity (Kg / lb)

35 / 77

Drum Diameter (mm / in.)

900 / 35,4"

Drum Depth (mm / in.)

550 / 21,65"

Drum Plate Thickness (mm / in.)

3 / 1/8"

Drum Volume (Lt / gal)

350 / 92,5

Wash Velocity (rpm)

32

Wash Velocity With Speed Inverter

(rpm)
4-32

WHAT IS STONE WASHING? Prespinning Velocity ((Optional)rpm)

4-130

What is Stone Wash? Motor Power ( Kw)

2,2
To achieve the desired stone washing effect for the
garments, the stone should be of proper hardness, shape, Motor Power( Hp)
and size. It should be mentioned that, for heavyweight 3

garments, large and hard stones are suitable. For

Water Inlet( in)
lightweight garments, small and soft stones are suitable. It 3/4"
is a popular garment washing.
The ratio of stone weight and garments weight is- [{(0.5 to Direct Steam Inlet
(in)
3)/1} kg]
1/2"
During stone wash of any garments, the degree of color
fading depends on some factors, such as- the garments to Air Inlet (in)
1/4"
stone ratio, washing time, stone size, and material to
liquor ratio. Stone washing times vary from 60-120min. Drain (mm / in.)
Stones can be reused until they disintegrate completely. 60 / 2"
Stonewashed jeans
Weight (Kg / lb)
500 / 1.102
 TYPES OF MACHINE USED WASHING
PLANT AND FINISHING
1. Front loading washing 3. Hydro extractor machine: 6. Grinding machine:
machine: This type of machine is used for extracting A grinding machine is used in the dry
In the latest garments washing plant, excess water from the garments. process of garments washing plant. It has
the front loading washing machine is so much importance in producing a
common. It is also used for washing
4. Chemical mixing machine: grinding effect on the garments.
A chemical mixing machine is needed in
bulk garments. It has so much
mixing the chemical. It’s important
advantage than side loading machine. 7. Effluent treatment plant (E.T.P):
equipment in garments washing plant.
E.T.P plays an important role in receiving
2. Steam dryer: 5. Submersible pump: an order from the buyer. E.T.P plan is must
The steam dryer is one kind of dryer Submersible pump plays an important role to for 100% export oriented garments
that is run with the help of steam. If provide necessary water in all the wet washing factory.
the garments shade will be needed in a process of garments washing plants. It is a
blue tone then a steam dryer will be must for running any garments washing
used. plants.

Steaming Press Steam Air Finisher

Steam applied from the head of a This type of garments finishing machine is known
press is used to achieve high as puffer or dolly press. The dolly press
Specifications:
temperature, which melts the fusing contains a frame which contains form and the
Electric fan: 2 HP
glue. steam and compressed air are flowed by pipe
Connection to air blowing: 6 Atm
The press head applies pressure and through the form. The pressing form is
Connection to steam: 6 Atm
the lower part of the press of buck generally made by heavy canvas fabric. There is
Installed Power: 1.7 Kw
helps in cooling, once the fusing no sleeve and the usable form size is made
action has taken place. Major according to the size of body of garments.
application of this machine is in Steam and air are supplied for a predetermined
fusible shoulder pads in men’s time by using a timer. Normally 8 seconds for
jackets. steam supply and next 8 seconds for hot air
Product Details: supply. This type pressing is used for pressing
Minimum Order Quantity 1 Set T-shirts, jeans, pants, blouses, and sportswear
Size 31"/51 and so on.
Color Blue Features:
Usage/Application Ironing Clothes Innovative electro pneumatic conditioner
Phase singal & three Used for finishing of trousers without pleats,
Board Size steamfab produced in two versions
Power 5 kw One steaming and air blowing working station
Brand STEAMFAB Trouser top side enlarging with adjustable and
Specifications – constant strength despite the sizes
Capacity- 4 Kg/hr Trouser leg tension device with double
1- Operation Steam – 15-20 minutes adjustment
2- Volume of inner Tank - 10 liters Suitable for both short and long trousers
3- Drain size – 1/2” Simple and complete control system of the
4- Electric Element :- 3 Kw X 1 machine through plc and display
5- Boiler Safety Control - IPS Pressure Adjustable and movable legs clamps
Controller, Safety Valve Front waistband-fly locking
cancer prop Flow adjustment and steam over-heating
7- Electrical control box –ALL switch Hot air blowing through a powerful electric fan
DV / TC/ C&S Electric LTD. Adjustable enlarging (trouser top side) and the
8- Safety feature ---The machine automatic tension (trouser legs) strength with automatic
PRESSURE CANTROLER & WATER LAVEL stop at the entered parameters
Device for air blowing flow adjustment
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