Garment Manufacturing Process: Step by Step Section Wise

Garment manufacturing is a huge process. All operations are done in different

departments in garment industry. It is not possible to describe briefly about
apparel production. Garment manufacturing is a sequential processes such as
designing, sampling, laying, marking, cutting, stitching, checking, finishing,
pressing and packaging etc. In this process, raw materials convert into finished
products. I will describe all operations of garment manufacturing step by step in
section wise.

Flow Chart of Garment Manufacturing Process:

Design

Sample

Pattern

Pattern Grading

Marker Making

Spreading Fabric

Cutting Fabric

↓
Sorting out & bundling cut fabric

Print/ Embroidery

Assembling the part by sewing

Sewing quality inspection

Ironing/ Pressing

Hand Tag/Label

Final Inspection

Packing

Size wise cartooning

Cartoon Inspection

↓
 Warehouse

Shipment

The Five Basic Principles of Fashion Design

Fashion:
Fashion is instant language. The style is a way to say who you are without having
to speak. Elegance is not standing out, but being remembered for your
styles. Fashion is what you are offered four or five times a year by designers and
stylish. To create designs and style every now and then designers have to work on
the public’s demand and new trends. While doing this they have to utilize
elements and have to follow principles of design.

The Principles of Fashion Design:

The Principles are concepts used to organize or arrange the structural elements of
design. Principles are guidelines and fundamental ideas that every designer in the
working field should follow. In fashion design, there are five important
principles and then apply to both the garments basic structure and that
application. They provide guidelines to combine properly the five elements of
design to create always different elegance in designs. The five basic principles
of fashion design are as follows-
1. Balance
2. Proportion
3. Emphasis
4. Rhythm
5. Harmony
1. Balance:

Balance is the concept of visual equilibrium and relates to our physical sense of
balance. It is a reconciliation of opposing forces in a composition that results in
visual stability. Balance relates to the overall stability in the dress with the
satisfactory arrangement of parts and details. Well, balanced dress produces
visual harmony. The balanced design of the fashion is also divided into two ways.
Such as-

I. Symmetric Balance
II. Asymmetric Balance
I) Symmetrical Balance:

It is also known as formal balance. Formal balance occurs when an object appears
equal by repetition in an arrangement of elements of design. Symmetrical balance
applications of balance, for example, a straight hemline are the norm, but
asymmetrical balance can be effective too. In the past several years, asymmetrical
necklines have achieved popularity.

II) Asymmetrical Balance:

Asymmetrical balances called as informal balance. Informal balance occurs when

an object appears unequal by repetition in an arrangement of elements of design.
Asymmetrical balance is more complex and trickier to achieve than symmetrical
balance. For example, a one-shoulder gown might look interesting with its
asymmetrical neckline, but a jacket with one lapel larger than the other would
just look bad
.

2. Proportion:

Proportion is the feeling of unity created when all parts (sizes, amounts, or
number) relate well with each other. When drawing the human figure, the
proportion can refer to the size of the head compared to the rest of the body. The
proportion in art is the comparative harmonious relationship between two or
more elements in a composition with respect to size, color, quantity. Proportion
is usually not even noticed until something is out of proportion. When the
relative size of two elements being compared seems wrong, or out of balance, it is
said to be “out of proportion”. For example, if a person has a head larger than
their entire body, then we would say that they were out of proportion. A good
proportion is often determined by a rule called “Golden Mean” which was

developed by Greek mathematicians.

3. Emphasis or Centre of Attraction:

Emphasis is the concentrations of interest in the selected area of design. Usually,
designers will make one area stand out by contrasting it with other areas. The
area could be different in size, color, texture, shape, etc. Common facts of
emphasis are such as-
 Emphasis using value (light and dark).
 Emphasis using complementary colors and atmospheric perspective.
 Examples of emphasis, and subordination in the artwork.
 Emphasis using color.
4. Rhythm:

Rhythm is created when one or more elements of design are used repeatedly to
create a feeling of organized movement. Rhythm creates a mood like music or
dancing. To keep rhythm exciting and active, variety is essential.

Repetition can be a great tool for leading the eye across a design, but without
variation, it can quickly become monotonous to look at. Consider how fast you
want people to be exposed to your content. The more repetition you use, the
quicker your audience’s brain will register your design, but the quicker it will get
bored! Try using some slight variations within your repetition to keep interest.
5. Harmony or Unity:
It is also called as UNITY of design. A good balance between unity and variety
must be established to avoid a chaotic or a lifeless design. Unity is the feeling of
harmony between all parts of the work of art, which creates a sense of
completeness. Unity is a difficult principle to define. Unity ensures the goal for
the overall look.

Qualities of a Good Textile Merchandiser

Merchandiser:
A merchandiser plays double roles in the apparel industry. Acts as a seller to the
buyer, on other hands play a buyer role to the manufacturer. So the person who
include in buying and selling goods is called as a merchandiser. All the
procedures of an apparel industry, a merchandiser is directly or indirectly
involves. For this reason merchandising department is very important
department in the apparel industry. For smooth order execution, a merchandiser
must have some essential qualities.

Qualities of a good merchandiser are mentioned below:

1. Textile knowledge
2. Language skill
3. Negotiation
4. Computer skill
5. Consumption
6. Costing
7. Planning
8. Team work
9. Smartness
10. Present Market Prices
 Qualities of good merchandiser

1. Textile knowledge:
A good textile merchandiser should have required outstanding textile knowledge.
This is very important for order execution in an apparel industry. Textile
knowledge helps a textile or apparel merchandiser in every step of order
procurement. So, textile knowledge is very important for a good merchandiser. A
textile merchandiser should knowledge about fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing,
finishing, garments production, accessories etc.
2. Language skill:
Language is the major way of communication with another person. This
communication is very essential for merchandising activities.
A merchandiser should have excellent communication in English. She/he
should have sound skill in English, both written and spoken.
3. Negotiation:
Negotiation skill is one of the most important skills for a merchandiser. A
merchandiser should know how to negotiation with the buyer and seller. The
garments merchandisers are mainly negotiated about the order costing with the
buyer.
4. Computer Skill:
A merchandiser should have enough knowledge about computer operation
specially, basic knowledge of MS Word, MS Excel. The Computer makes easier to
do work such as costing, consumption, time and action plan, etc. By the help of  a
computer, a merchandiser can easily store any kind of order data which helps
for future record.
5. Consumption:
Knowledge about consumption is the most essential skill for a merchandiser. To
be a good merchandiser, he/she should have clear knowledge about consumption
of  a different order of the buyer. Otherwise, this issue will create problem to
submit the order at lead time. To be a skilled merchandiser, one should have
the excellent knowledge about Consumption.
6. Costing:
Proper costing of an export order is a very important factor for a good
merchandiser. Accurate costing can make an order profitable. To find out costing
a merchandiser need to calculate a few numbers of measurements and
consumption of order.
7. Planning:
Planning is another important key factor for a skill merchandiser. A right
planning of an order process can help to find out future profit or lose. Therefore,
merchandisers always try to make a smooth planning for an export order
execution.
8. Team work:
Actually merchandising profession is a team work. In a merchandising
department, people work as a team. This is very important for the execution of an
export order which improve order productivity. Team work also improved
the professional relationship of a merchandiser.
9. Smartness:

A good merchandiser should be smart. He/she is an all-rounder person in textile

sector. In normal sense, smartness means a person is external expression. But in
the context of textile sector merchandiser’s smartness is dependent on his work.

10. Present Market Prices:

A good merchandiser should have knowledge about the present market price
of textile fabrics and accessories. Market prices depend on market price
analysis, sourcing, link up with manufacture, etc. A merchandiser’s smart
knowledge of market price can reduce the cost of the order. So, the knowledge
about the present market price is very essential for a good merchandiser

Job Responsibilities of a Garments Merchandiser 

Garments Merchandiser:
A merchandiser play dual role between manufacturer and buyer. Merchandiser is
commented with the buyer and to do the planning as use well as procuring the
garment order up to the shipment. He/she have to achieve knowledge about the
right product, in the right place, at the right time, in the right quantities, at the
right price. To become a good merchandiser, he/she should play some roles in
keeping up responsibilities. Today’s topic is about the job responsibility of a
merchandiser.

Merchandising Responsibilities:
A merchandiser plays very important role in the apparel industry. The major role
of merchandiser is monitoring an order, first to last. Merchandiser also acts role
to maintain accelerate the working execution speed. In garments
industry, merchandising department is common. Merchandising department
is known as the heart of an apparel industry. Company profit or lose depending
on this department. Therefore the responsibilities in this department are very
important. The sequence of job responsibility flows in a merchandising
department according to the following diagram.

Job responsibilities Sequence in a Merchandising Department

Job Responsibilities of a Garments Merchandiser:

The major job responsibilities of a merchandiser garments are as below-

 To maintain professional relationship between buyer and

manufacturer.
 To collect the PO (purchase order) from buyer.
 To prepare an order plan, according to the right product, in the right place,
at the right time, in the right quantities, at the right price, in the right
promotion.
 To break down the order sheet.
 To prepare the order costing and price quoting.
 To set up internal order list.
 To monitor the garments sample process according to the buyer
requirement.

Tuesday march 17, 2021

Garments Sampling Process for Export Order
Garments sample:
Sampling is very important for garments manufacturing process in a textile
industry. For this reason garments factories have a garment sampling
department. For confirming an export order, sampling plays an important role.
According to the sample condition, buyer will give comments. Generally, buyers
require different types of sample from different stages of the order process.
There are few stages in garments industry for making an export order. Now I
would like to discuss about this process.
 Garments Sample Room

I Garments Samples:

The buyer also requires different types of samples after placing an order. In
production, stage exporter needs to submit a few more samples to the buyer
at different stages as per the need. A sampling includes details like a style code
or a reference number, color specifications, kind of fabric and its composition
and details of embroidery, buttons, zippers or any other sort
of accessories used. Hence it can be said that samples of garments work as a
bridge between buyers and the exporter. Special care should be taken while
making samples. n garments factory samples are divided by two ways. They are
development samples and production samples.

A. Development samples:
Development samples are the initial stage of garment manufacturing. In
garments industry those samples are making before production, which are called
development sample. They are as follows.
1. Design sample: Design sample is first sample for garments sampling
department. This sample is also called proto sample. Proto samples are created
by a fashion designer. Not mention fit and fabric details in this stage.
2. Fit sample- Once the proto samples are approved, fit samples are developed.
The fit sample is made with actual measurement based on the original
product and specification sheets given by the buyer. FIT samples are considered
as a very important factor in sample development. The fit sample is being
inspected on a live model or a dress form to verify the fit and feel of the garment.

3. Photo shoot sample: When the fit sample is approved the photo shoot
sample is made. Taking Photo shoot for the buyer where samples will be worn by
the models or dummy. For this sample, actual fabrics and accessories are
compulsory. By this sample buyer can easily give their comments.

It is also known as a proto – type sample. Proto samples are made after receiving
the order sheets from the buyer. This is the first sample developed by a
designer or as per the artwork in the product development stage. The design and
style of a sample are communicated and the fit, color and fabric details are not
being considered.

4. Mock up sample: Mock up sample is not a complete sample. For buyer

equipment few parts of garments are made. It is part of garments such as sleeve,
collar, front panel, leg parts etc.
 Process flow chat of sampling

5. Size set sample: Generally a garment has different sizes such as S, L, M, XL,

XXL, etc. For this reason, check the fit of the garment in different sizes. Size set
sample is very important because without this approval, the cutting should not be
started.
Once the proto sample and fit sample are approved, based on the pattern
of the approved sample the grading for the other sizes are done and then patterns
for the other sizes will be made. Size-set samples are sent to the buyer once the
fitting is approved in S-small, M-medium, L- large, XL-extra-large and other
sizes as per the requirement. Size set samples are made to check the fit and
workmanship of each size.  Mass cutting of mass production begins only after
the final approval of size set samples.
Different size format for garments

6. Approval sample: Before pre-production sample, sometimes buyer

required approval sample. This sample is made actual fabrics and accessories.
Approval sample is actual buyer one kinds of recommend for next process.
7. Pre-production sample: The Pre-production sample is the last stage of
development sample. In apparel industry, short name of this sample is PP
sample. Garment bulk production depends on approval of pre-production sample
from buyer. So pre-production sample is a most important sample.
The exporter manufacturers pre-production sample with the actual
fabric, trims, and accessories once all the above samples are approved by the
buyer. It is also called as a pilot run sample. PILOT RUN is a trial run, which
should be developed before starting the bulk production. After a final approval is
received from the pre-production sample the actual production can proceed.

B. Production samples: Thursday March 18, 2021

Production samples are the last stage of sampling process at manufacturing
industry. Actually, this stage is combustion of online sample and shipment
sample. By those samples a buyer can know the bulk production condition of
a garment industry. In both stages of production, used original fabrics and
accessories.
Production Sample:
Once production is going on a few sample garments are taken in the middle of the
production. The purpose to send the production sample to the buyer when
production is online being to inspect that the garments are being manufactured
as per the approval and decided specifications. This sample is also termed as
GOLD SEAL SAMPLE by some buyers. without gold seal sample approval, the
shipment or final inspection cannot be done.

1. Online sample: Online sample is also called top of production sample (TOP

sample). A sample which is collected from the first stage of production process is
known as online sample. For production follow up, a buyer must be collected this
sample from the apparel industry.
2. Shipment sample: In this stage production has done. For sending this
sample to the buyer, need all packing accessories such as poly, hanger, packing
list, bar code sticker, hang tag, price tag, etc. In garment factory, shipment
samples are kept for future reference that’s why, this sample is known as keep
sample.
Shipment Sample:
This sample is required by the buyer after the final inspection is passed.
Shipment samples are sent to the buyer when the finished and packed garments
are ready to be shipped. These samples are sent in case when the garments are
directly delivered from the warehouse of the buyer, to view the final product and
its packing. But some buyers will insist the exporter send the shipment sample
first and after approval of the same shipment, the exporter can deliver the final
shipment.

Sample making procedure: Asssignment Discuss March 18,2021

There are many types of procedure to make sample. But in my garments, they
follow this type procedure. I am giving a flow chart to making sample in my
garment manufacturing industry.

Thinking and Sketch

Material and 1st Pattern

 ↓

Photo type sample and give the sample to buyer

Take the buyer comments

Dummy

Approval For Production

Take the buyer comments

Bulk production

Send Photo, Sales man, shipping sample

Production Sample

Send to the Garments

 In-process Inspection in Garments 

Garments Quality:
Garments inspection is directly related to the garment quality. Quality means the
garments are reasonably acceptable that means no problem with seam,
appearance, performance, filling, acceptable accessories. Garments qualities
divide into two ways.
They are as follows-
1. By testing.
2. By inspection.

Garments Inspection:
Garments inspection refer to test fabrics, button, sewing, thread,
zipper, measurement of garments according to desirable standard or
specification of garments. In garments manufacturing industry, there is the
arrangement of inspection in each section. The main object of inspection is to
rectify the faults in primary step as early as possible such that reduction of time
and economic. In garments industry quality of the garment is maintained by
regular inspection in different steps. For an effective and successful
inspection, the quality controller takes step according to the following
inspection loop-

                                                                                          Inspection Loop
There is three division of inspection in garments industry. They are as follows-
1. Raw material inspection
2. In-process inspection
3. Final inspection
As my previous articles, I already explained raw metrical inspection or
fabric inspection and final inspection in garments. Today I am going to
explain in-process inspection in garments.

In-process Inspection:
The inspection that is carried out before the assembling of various components of
garments is called an in-process inspection. This inspection is done in the most of
the section in the garment industry of fabric spreading to finishing. The main
objective of the in-process inspection is to identify the faults and to rectify them
within the process as far as possible. Normally it’s seen that 15-20%operationds
are responsible for 65-80% faults in garments. So, if in-process inspection is
carefully and harshly carried out, the number of complaints regarding garment
quality will be reduced outstandingly. The several stages of garments
manufacturing process where in-process inspection and quality control are
done as below-

Inspection in fabric sewing section

1. Inspection in marker making section.

 2. Inspection in fabric spreading section.
3. Inspection in fabric cutting section.
4. Inspection in fabric sewing section
5. Inspection in pressing and finishing section.

March 22, 2021 Topic.

Garment manufacturing process in different departments of

garment industry are described below:

Sample Section:

There are many types sample are needed when garments are going to make a
product.

Types of sample:

1. First pattern sample

2. Development sample
3. Second pattern sample
4. Counter sample
5. Salesman sample
6. Photo sample
7. Approval sample
8. Pre-production sample
9. Production sample
10.Shipment sample
Types of sampling with their details:

1. First pattern sample:

A design given by buyer and make it physical version of the garment.

Here are some criteria to develop a first sample. They maintain sequence to
develop it.

Thinking of a design

↓
 Draw in CAD

Pattern

Sample

2. Development Sample:

Which sample are developed by sample section from primary pattern sample.

3. Second Pattern Sample:

Usually designer/ developer always ask for some changes to the first pattern.
Second pattern is made as per comments.

4. Counter Sample:

Where first pattern is made on designers artwork, Counter sample is to make not
on designer’s artwork, has to follow another sample given by the merchandiser.

5. Salesman Sample:

Salesman Sample is made when PRICE is confirmed and order are on

speculation. Buyer held a meeting with its customer and record their response on
order quantity per COLOR, SIZE etc. and finally plac order to their vendor.

6. Photo Sample:

Photo samples are made with actual color and material to be worn by models on
the event of SHOOTING for catalog.

7. Approval Sample:

It is sent to buyer for his APPROVAL of the conformity that the revision is done
correctly. If any fault found then the sample go back to garments.
8. Pre-Production Sample:

When the production accessories come to the garments for the production then
garments makes a sample for a buyer. Which is called pre-production sample.

9. Production Sample:

Assurance to the buyer that the bulk is being produced as per specifications.

10. Shipping Sample:

This sample send to shipping inspector. Who give the product to the buyer. It is
important sample because of shipping inspector give a note to buyer as sample
base.

Fig: Garment sample section

Pattern Making Section:

Pattern making process is drawing or art in a flat paper of flat fabric. Basically,

garment manufacturing industries make their pattern by using flat paper.
Because pattern can easily removable from pattern paper. So, garments
industries follow the pattern making process by using paper. In Divine Textile
Ltd, they also make their pattern by using paper. And the paper name is pattern
paper.

Pattern is important because, it is primary stage of a garments making. If pattern

is accurate then the garments should be accurate. Buyers give the size list to the
garments, then the garments follow the size and make the pattern with
allowance. Pattern is the big issue for every garment.

Marker Making Section:

Marker is a process where every pattern is kept in a long fabric. And this process
factory minimized the wastage of the fabric before cutting. Marker increase the
efficiency of the fabric.

Types of marker making:

1. Manually marker making process

2. Computerized marker making process
1. Manually marker making process:

This is a process where a man done the maker by manually. No computer

software is used them. Basically, who do this process he will be very experienced
person, and he know how to do this. In my garments the maker making process is
manually.

2. Computerized marker making process:

This is hundred percent done by computer, by using CAD (Computer aided

design) or many others software.

Effect of Marker Making:

1. Increase efficiency
2. Minimize fabric wastage
3. Maximized using of fabric
Fabric Spreading Section:

In this process fabric laid on a big table which is used for cutting. Fabric
spreading is important because of if fabric do not lay properly then outcome
product (after cutting) was not correct. So, when the fabric go for production then
its make difficulties in making garments. So proper fabric spreading is important
for garment manufacturing industry.

When fabric lay properly, they used one kind of clip (Fabric attaching clip) for
fixed the fabric. Marker paper also keep up on the fabric surface. Then they
attach the fabric with clip.

Types of fabric spreading system:

1. Automatic
2. Manual
1. Automatic:

When fabric spread by machine on the cutting table then its called automatic
fabric spreading.

2. Manual:

When fabric spread by man on the cutting table then its called manual fabric
spreading. In my factory they work in manually.

Cutting Process:

1. Marker Making
2. Fabric Spreading
3. Marker placement
4. Attaching with clip
5. Cut the fabric
6. Numbering
7. Bundling
Heat Cutting system:

When we need to cut non-woven fabric then normal cutting machine is not
suitable for cutting, because non-woven fabric is basically slippery then other
fabric. So we need to heat cutting machine.

Types of cutting process

1. Manual Cutting
2. Heat Cutting
3. Lesser Cutting
1. Manual Cutting:

It is a process which done by man is called manual cutting process. In my

garments they cut the fabric in manual process. Cutting master give the
instruction to worker and worker follow the instruction.

2. Heat cutting:

Basically, a heat machine is used for this process and the machine has copper
coil. And electricity passing the coil and it became hot. Then it cut the fabric. This
machine is not suitable for cloth type fabric, it is used for non-woven fabric.

3. Lesser Cutting:

A lesser light is used for cutting. It is very expensive cutting method but cutting is
very effective.

Cutting Section:

Fabric is a single piece of sheet. When we need garments then we need to cut.
Cutting is final step of sample, marker and fabric spreading. Because next process
is sewing. When sewing starts then other process also starts.

There are many types of cutting process but in Bangladesh almost everyone uses
a same process. And this is manually process. Cutting master cut the fabric by
hand cutting machine. There is a big long table where cut the fabric.
 Fig
: Garment cutting section
Maker paper kept up on the fabric surface, and cutting muster follow the line and
cut the fabric.

Sewing Section:

Sewing is big important part of a garment’s product. Without good sewing we

cannot introduce our products in worldwide. Sewing is a process where two
pieces of fabric are join. Many factors are related with sewing. (i.e.: Needle size,
Machine type, Thread count, Worker capacity, Production line etc.) So sewing
section is not only fabric join, it is core part of a garment manufacturing industry.
 Fig
: Garment sewing section

Sewing Process:

In my industry they follow a process to maintain sewing.

Collect fabric from cutting section

Input the fabric into the line

Set the machine settings

 ↓

Post production meeting

Production line up set

Production Starts

Check goods quality by Sewing Quality Inspector

Fault return to the worker

Output

Elements of sewing:

1. Sewing Machine
2. Needle
3. Thread/Yarn
Sewing Machine:
There are many types of machines are used in Divine Textile Ltd. Every types
of sewing machines are available here. They (my garments) produce jackets,
trousers etc so they need heavy machines for sewing.

List of sewing machine:

1. Plain Machine
2. Overlock machine
3. Bar tack machine
4. Button hole machine
5. Button attaching machine
6. Feed of the arm
7. Kansai

Discuss About Sewing Machine:

1. Plain machine:

Plain machine is basically use for attach two fabric. For long stitch this machine
is use. There are many brands in plain machine. Some is manual and some is
automatic. But every machine works same thing.

Brands:

1. Juki
2. Hakkari
3. Brother
JUKI is a well-known brand in sewing machine. Every company used this
machine. Initial power of machine is very good. This machine origin is China.
This machine is manual machine. Operators need set the machine, because
settings are going change when products are changed.

HIKARI is also well-known brand in sewing machine, and this machine is semi-
automatic machine. If one system is input in this machine then no need gives
same settings once again. Every data is stored in this machine. Production rate
are automatically calculated in this machine.
BROTHER is a Chinese brand, which produce many textile and other
machineries. They made manual, semi-automatic, fully automatic machines for
sewing. But in my garments, they have used manual machine. This machine is
manual but this machine is safe for human. Brother ensure the workers safety.
They introduce many devices in this machine for workers safety.

You may also like: Sewing Machine Types, Features and Functions

Example: if any needle breakdown then machine automatically gives sound.

There are many types of facility in this machine.

2. Overlock machine:

An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth
for edging, hemming, or seaming. It is very effective machine for garments good,
because without overlocking edge finishing is not to be good. There are many
brands available in market but Divine Textile Ltd. use only one brand for
overlock.

3. Bartack machine:

Bartack machine specially use for lock stitch. It contains a needle and a bobbin. It
produce high density lock stitch in short place. In my garments they use bartack
machine to stitch the side of pocket in jacket and pants. Stitch density depends on
the GSM of fabric. If the GSM is high then the stitch density is high, If GSM is low
then stitch density is also low.

4. Overlock machine:

This machine basically used for protect the edge of fabric and trim the extra part
of fabric. This machine used when product is done by plain stitch. Five thread are
used in overlock stitch machine. A sharp blade also attaches with the machine.
This sharp blade cut the extra part of the fabric and gives a plain finishing in the
garment’s products. This machine is very fast machine so need good experienced
worker to run this machine, otherwise any types of accident can be happened.

5. Button attaching machine:

This machine basically used for attach button on the jackets or garments goods. It
is very high speed machine and this machine can attach up to 60+ button in a
minute. In my garments there are two types machine. One is plastic or normal
button attaching machine another is steel or clip or tip button attaching machine.

6. Feed of the arm:

Feed of the arm machine is actually a chain stitch machine for chain stitch
designs working with sew and stitch. It contains looper instead of bobbin. By this
machine, multi thread chainstitch can be produced on garments. By this
machine, stitch can be produced on heavy fabrics, like denim or jeans.

Discuss About Needle:

Needle is an essential product for sewing. Only machine cannot sew without
needle. Needle made by stainless steel with sharp head. In sewing machine, there
are different types of needle is used. In my garments industry I was found three
types of needle. Which is used on plain, overlock and bartack machine. Some
needles are quite bigger usually it depends on fabric. If fabric is courser then need
courser needle.

Needle varies machine to machine:

In JUKI sewing machine the needle name is BP. And needle size is
9,11,14,16,18,20

In Sunstar sewing machine they used, DP, and needle size is 9,11,14,16,18,20

In Overlock machine, the needle size is small then stitch machine. Needle size of
overlock machine is DC, 9,11,14,16,18,20

Quality Section:

Every garment ensures the quality first, because if garments are unable to ensure
the quality then that garments cannot find good consignment in future. In Divine
Textile Ltd, 60 people are worked in finishing. 20 workers are finishing quality
inspector, 20 workers are sewing quality inspector, 10 workers are assistant
finishing quality inspector and 10 workers are assistant sewing quality inspector.
And this garments also has inspection room. They provide many high-tech
machines and Quality manager for each buyer.
 Fig: Garment
inspection
Work of Sewing Quality Inspector:

Sewing Quality Inspector is a person who check the quality of garments when
production is running in the industry. He/She check the product and detect the
fault of the product. If any fault was found then the inspector directly sends to the
senior sewing machine operator and order to remove the fault from the product.
Basically he or she is work for online quality control.

Work of Finishing Quality Inspector:

Finishing Quality Inspector is a person who check the garments products when
sewing inspector transfer to the finishing line. Basically, it is offline quality
control and maximum fault was removed. They check only size label and critical
defects (broken needle, insects etc.). They use metal detector in every product.

Finishing Section:

Finishing department is the department which comes after all the department &
it plays an equal important role in the final appearance of the garments. This
department includes majorly of the following steps.
 Fig:
Garment finishing section
Thread Sucking

Remove the extra tread from the garments, and clean the product.

Ironing

Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric. Give
the good finishing in the product. They use steam iron in the jacket. Steam helps
to smooth finishing. Temperature of iron is 80-90 degree Celsius.

Packing Section:

After the passing quality section, our garments are ready for shipment. Before
shipment we need to pack our product. In hare 30 workers and 5 packing
managers are work for packing. Packing style varies buyer to buyer. Then they
follow the instructions and pack the goods for the shipment.
 Fig
: Garment packing section
It is easy work but not so easy. First, they pack the product in poly-pack and then
they put all garments in the cartoon. Cartoon size is also given by buyers. And
how many pieces are kept in a one cartoon also give in the order sheet.

Store:

A place where many accessories, trims, fabric and many important elements of
garments are kept. Basically, store are two types, one is normal store and another
machine store.

1. Normal Store:

A place where every types of office equipment’s, production tools, accessories

and trims are kept. Every necessary product of garments is stored here. A data
man entry the data of the product, and give the product when anyone need.

List of the product in the normal store:

 Paper
 Pen
 Office Documents
 Previous swatch card
 Button (any types)
  Fabric (any types)
 Label
 Token
 Office stationery
 Needle
 Thread
 Previous Buyers Data
 Zipper
 Garments Accessories
 Garments trims
2. Machine Store:

A place where machine instruments are stored. Every tool of sewing machines are
kept here. When any parts need to change then the mechanic come here and
replace the parts from the machine.

List of the product in machine store:

1. Arm
2. Balance Wheel/Hand Wheel
3. Bed
4. Bobbin Case
5. Bobbin Cover
6. Bobbin Winder
7. Face Plate
8. Feed Dogs
9. Head
10.Needle bar
11. Needle Clamp
12. Pattern/Stitch selector
13. Presser Foot
14. Presser Foot Lever
15. Reverse Lever
16. Slide Plate
17. Spool Pin
18.Spool pin for bobbin winding
19. Stitch regulator
20. Take up Lever
21. Tension Disc
22. Thread Cutter
23.Thread Guide
24. Throat Plate or Needle Plate
Merchandising Section:

Merchandising is an important section in every garment manufacturing

industry. In merchandising section, they communicate with buyers and deals
with buyers, and they pricing the product also they works in shipment too.

Simply merchandiser works with the whole productions of garment

manufacturing. He maintains every single section by own risk. It is very
challenging department in garment manufacturing industries.

Fig: Garment
merchandising section
Works of a merchandiser in garment manufacturing industry:

1. Contact with buyers

2. Invite the buyers in the factory
3. Buyers visit the garments
4. Buyers gives the audit sheet to the merchandiser
5. Resolve the problem, if any fault found
6. Take the product list from the buyers
7. Pricing the products
 8. Send to the buyers
9. Fix the pricing from the both side (factory and buyers)
10.Take the sample sheet from the buyer (Primary order sheet)
11. Send to the sample sheet to the sample section
12. Send the sample to the buyer
13. Buyers approval
14. Give the main order sheet to the merchandiser
15. Create Latter o credit (master L/C)
16. Merchandiser create back to back L/C, where accessories comes from.
17. Send a production sample and photo sample of the garments
18.Buyers approval
19. Swatch card making
20. Swatch card approval
21. Take the full production
22. Production follow up
23.Maintain TNA
24. Audit (when production running)
25.Transportation booking
26. Cartoon booking
27.Follow up finishing
28. Follow up packing
29. Shipment the garments
30. Take the full money from the buyers.
31. Send the order sheet in the store (for future)

This is the basic work which I observe in the factory, but they do also some
critical works too, like fabric inspection, machine inspection, compliance
inspection etc. Those works are internal, as a I’m just an intern in this garment
manufacturing industry, so I have some restriction to observe those works.

They work lot in technical and official. And they work for garments and also work
for country.

Product Development Process in Garment

Industry
Apparel product development cycle begins when a conceptual garment design is
received. It is a very first stage of introduction of new style. In garment product
development process, sketch or design is converted in to a 3D form apparel, with
all technical & aesthetic way keeping in mind. This process starts after market
forecast, it is the process of creating each individual style within the line. At first
two-dimensional (2D) patterns are created that which perform the design; the
patterns are cut out & constructed into a 3D prototype. Prototype is reviewed &
revised until a sample is approved. Progressing onto manufacturing, grading
which can be carried out by the product development team, is undertaken before
the pattern pieces are placed in a lay plan or marker that will be cut out in bulk
cloth & the garment parts are sent to be manufactured.

Stages of Garment product development process are described below:

Line planning and research:

It is initial step in product development in garment industry. Production

development team uses the information from research on trends, colours,
materials, previous successes or failures, past sales records, experience from
previous lines, & mark-down reports, etc. to brainstorm a plan for the new line.
This information assists to designers to sketch design.

Pattern design:
At first, a design of a garment is received. This is followed by the development of
a 2D pattern, which represents the design sketch & enables a garment to be cut
out in cloth & constructed into a 3D prototype; a time-consuming interactive
process occurs, where the prototype is reviewed until the desired shape, style, &
fit are approved. There are generally two recognized pattern-generation methods
in garment industry: flat pattern cutting & draping. Besides, flat pattern cutting
has two approaches: first, a basic pattern, called a block or block pattern. It is
used as a starting point for the desired garment. Measurements are taken from
the required positions on the body; an allowance of varying amounts is added to
specific measurements, which will allow the prototype garment to fit correctly
against the areas of the body & the body to move within the garment.

Draping or modeling is the second recognized pattern generation method that

can be used to make a pattern for a prototype garment or part of a garment. If a
constructed garment has a silhouette similar to the desired shape, then a
duplicate of such a garment can be made either by deconstructing the garment
and tracing round the parts or by manipulating the garment and duplicating the
parts while the garment is constructed. The processes of reviewing the prototype,
amending the pattern, & creating additional prototypes continue until an
approved sample is established.

Seams and Openings:

During pattern development of an approved sample, makeup & joining methods

are incorporated within the pattern to facilitate the manufacturing process &
produce a well constructed final apparel. End use of the garment, market level, &
fabric properties are considered throughout. Relevant seam allowances are
incorporated, depending on the elected joining method. Joining methods include
traditional sewn seams by using lock stitch machines; three, four & five thread
over lockers; etc. or non-sew technologies such as ultrasonic welding and
bonding machines. Besides, openings, such as button openings, zips, etc. are
considered & integrated within the pattern. Edge finishes could include binding,
trims, facings & again, a relevant seam allowance is incorporated.

Costing:

Simultaneously, important information is required by the costing department to

ascertain a final selling price & ensure that a profit can be made on production of
the garments. We know that around 50% of a garment cost can typically be the
fabric cost, an estimate of the amount of fabric required for the garment is
essential. The costing department will incorporate labor, overheads, profit
margin, distribution etc. in their costings to attain a final selling price.
Measurements:

The approved sample is created to perform the base or sample size of the
required size Range. Each company will have its own specific size range & body fit
measurements on which they work. Thus, accurate body measurements are very
important for creating the initial block & approved prototype. Traditionally, a
tape measure was used to take body measurements; however, body scanners have
been employed in recent years. Allowance is added to the body measurements.
From the body measurements, a size chart for the range of apparel sizes can be
created; measurements in the size chart will be for the specific finished garment.
However, should the garment be made from stretch fabric, which needs to be
tight over the body, garment measurements will be decreased in accordance with
the stretch properties of the fabric & the desired look or function of the final
garment.

Grading:

Grading is the art of increasing or decreasing the patterns pieces to ensure the
shape, aesthetics & fit established in the prototype sample size. It is retained
throughout the size range. This task can be performed by a pattern designer or a
personnel working within the team. Each pattern piece within the set of patterns,
depending on its position within the garment, will have its own amount of
grading applied.

There are two broad systems used for grading: two dimensional & three
dimensional. Two dimensional grading grades a pattern only in the girth &
height, darts are not graded. Three dimensional grading not only increases or
decreases the pattern for size but also increases or decreases compression.
However, a good working knowledge of pattern cutting is required to use this
technique.

Production lay plan/marker:

A series of production lay plans or markers is planned & created. These are
similar to the costing lay plans but will incorporate different sizes to ensure that
the correct quantities of each size & color are able to be cut & ready for
production & that the optimum utilization of the fabric is achieved. But should
ordered several colors of the garment.
Cutting:

Cutting is the basic process in garments making which cut out the pattern pieces
from specified fabric for making garments. The quantities, planned during the
creation of the lay plans, are reviewed; fabric is spread to the required length of
the lay plan, with further lengths of fabric being laid on top, until the correct
amounts of plies of fabric are achieved. This enables the precise quantities & sizes
of the production garments to be cut. The cut work is then sent to be
manufactured.

Garment Costing:

Costing is the process and technique of estimating the cost for a product or
services or process. Cost is estimated freshly that is what would be the cost for the
particular activity which is going to be carried out. The main purpose of costing is
to determine the selling price. Costing was primarily developed to serve the
needs of the organization. The technique and methods to be used for ascertaining
of the cost vary from unit to unit depending upon the nature of the industry, type
of the product, method of production and the meaning or the sense in which the
term cost is used.

Elements of Costing in Apparel Industry:

Cost is defined as expenditure used to manufacture a product or to render a

service or to carry out a process. Other factors to be considered in determining
the price are competition, market condition, demographics, etc. Costing
consists of several matters such as-
1. Fabric Cost
2. CMT
3. Cut Make and Trim
4. Cutting
5. Making and Trimmings
6. Accessories
7. Extra Process
8. Other Charges
9. Overheads
10. Profit Margin
11. Commission of Agent

1. Fabric Cost: Grey fabric, lining fabric, dyeing cost, etc.

2. CMT: CMT define as the Cut Make and Trim cost.
3. Cutting: Cutting includes all cost.
4. Making and Trimmings Cost: Thread lace crochet waistband, ladder
lace, zipper cord piping, drawcord piping, pocket attachment, pocket bag
making, loop making, and attachment, fusing
5. Accessories Cost: Buttons, main label, brand tag, hang tag, individual
polybag, master polybag, pins, clips, paper, and carton.
 6. Extra Process Cost: Garment surface ornamentation-embroidery, printing,
smocking, garment washing, garment dyeing, discharge, blasting, and crinkle.
7. Other Charges Cost: Lab testing, textile testing charges, clearing,
forwarding charges, domestic transport
8. Overheads Costing:  Factory, office administrative work, telephone charges,
internet charges.
9. Wastage Cost: Rejection ration for each segment.
10. Profit Margin Cost:  Mark-up cost 18-20%
11. Commission of Agent: as per the organization.

Garments Costing for Export Order

Garments Costing:
Garment costing is a very important part of export garments business. An
important part of the management of the textile mill is the determination of
the production costs. Cost involves numerous variable factors which are often
hard to evaluate accurately and mathematical exactness in difficult to reach. The
yarn market fluctuates, finishing materials and dyestuff, etc. changes from
season to season, and equipment’s are often replaced by more modern
machinery. Now I would like to discuss about general costing process for an
export order in the garment industry.

Productivity:
The ratio between actual output and total import is known as the productivity. In
an industrial view, it is the financial evaluation of the output and input of
production. By the help of productivity, a garments factory or textile industry
can easily measure different types of efficiency such as worker, system, factory,
machine, etc.
Productivity is express as follows-
Productivity =    Input / Output
How to Improve Productivity:

There are different ways or steps to improve productivity. But the proper analysis
of input product and output product is the main formula to improve productivity
in an industry. Here, I mention three ways to improve productivity.

Higher productivity can be improved by-

1. Increasing output by keeping the input same.
2. Reducing the amount of input by keeping same output.
3. Increasing the output by reducing the input.
Factors to be considered for Higher Productivity:
 Design innovation.
 Standardizing the design.
 Development of employee.
 The arrangement of training.
 Investing in a better plant.
 Improving the planning of work.
 Efficient worker selection.
 Improving the method of production.
 Improving morale.
 Rewarding success.
 Improving attendance level.
 Reducing labor turn over.
 Effective communication.
 Measuring performance.

Garments Costing for Export Order:

For fixation of a garment price of export order followings types of costing should
be observed carefully by-

1. According to relation with production

 Direct Cost (Fabric and Accessories cost)

 Indirect Cost (Management cost, electricity cost, transport cost etc.)

2. According to Fixed and Variable System

  Fixed Cost (Building cost, Machinery cost)

 Variable Cost (Transportation, salary etc.)
3. According to Cost Element

 Material cost
 Labor cost

4. According to Function

 Production Cost
 Sales and Marketing Cost
 Administrative Cost

A Sample Format of Costing Sheet

Generally there are many ways to find out a standard export order costing. Here
the costing function of a garment is described below:

o Cost of fabric/doz. Garments (woven/knit) or cost of yarn/doz. Or

Garments (sweater).
o Cost of weaving/knitting.
o Cost of Dyeing (if necessary).
o Cost of Printing (if necessary).
o Cost of embroidery (if necessary).
o Cost of accessories/doz. Garments.
 o Cost of manufacturing (CM)/doz. Garments.
o Cost or transportation from factory to sea port.
o Clearing and forwarding cost.
o Commission/ profit.

References:

1. Textile and Clothing Design Technology by Tom Cassidy, Parikshit

Goswami
2. Apparel Merchandising by R. Rathinamoorthy and R. Surjit
3. Apparel Manufacturing Technology by T. Karthik, P. Ganesan, D.
Gopalakrishnan
4. Garment Manufacturing Technology Edited by Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv
Padhye

Garment production
1. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT BY- G.K. Oshan Devinda
2. Chart of garment production departments Merchandising department Sampling department
Fabric store department Trims and accessories store department Spreading & Cutting department
Sewing department Washing department Quality Assurance department Finishing & Packaging
department Maintenance Department Finance and Accounts Department HR/Admin Department
3. Sawing department
4. Introduction. After the cutting department the fabrics come to the sawing department.then
the bulk is start to sawing.in the sawing department the garments going though production
system and then the saems and stiching.
5. Sewing department Production system Seams and stitches
Garment production system
1. Make though system
In this system an operator makes right through one garment at one time.
2. Conventional bundle system
 Sewing machines are arranged in lines.
 The work flows from the central (store) area to the first machine, from the first machine back
to the store, and then on to the next machine, and so forth.
 A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for receiving and dispatching the work.
 The work in progress is in the form of bundles.
 These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a bag, or the garment parts may be wrapped
and tied.
3. Clump system
 A worker collects a clump of materials from the worktable and carries out the first operation.
 After he has completed his part of the work, he returns it to the table.
 A worker for the second operation then continues the work and so on.
 The process is ' collection - work -return' continues until the whole garment has been
assembled.
4. Progressive bunddle system
 Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties the bundle and passes it to the next
operator.
 There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the inter-process work between
each operation.
 The work is routed by means of tickets.
 This system is the most widely used system in the garment industry today. It is used in shirt
factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
5. Flexible flow system
 A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of work in a rack at the side, work at an
engineered work place.
 The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work can be planned using the correct
number of operators in sequence.
 For style A garments, the work distributed after operation
1 can be distributed to the two operators performing operation
2. On completion, the work from both workers is then sent to operator
3. After operation 3, the work is continued by the two operators performing operation
4 and so on.
 When a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the number of operators needed for each
operation must be planned in detail to ensure a balanced output.
6. Straight line system
 The manufacturing process is broken down into several operations, which take the same time
to complete.
 Groups of operators are required to handle only individual garments.
 The garment parts pass from one operator to the next, until the garment has been completely
made up by one group of operators.
 The central distribution unit may be a fixed table or a a conveyor belt (its speed will be set to
suit the cycle time).
7. Synchro flow system
 Garment parts of the same size and color are processed separately.
 Different garment parts can be processed simultaneously for assembling.
 At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, etc., from other lines also go down a central
line.
 The different garment parts are then processed together to form completed garments.
8. Unit production system
 A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.
 It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual units from
work-station to work station for assembly.
 All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by means
of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.
 Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier.
 Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling, tying and untying,
and manually moving garment parts.
 Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and inventory
data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt decision.
9. Modular manufacturing system
 Modular manufacturing groups operators into teams, or modules.
 The team works on one/a few garment at a time instead of a bundle of garments.
 The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate to different machines as they work,
becoming familiar with multiple steps in producing the garment.
15. SEAM AND STICHES
 SEAM What is a seam ? A seam is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.
Types of seams
• Superimposed seams
• Lap seams
• Bound seams
• Flat seams
• Edge finishing seams Superimposed seam Lap seam Edge finishing seam Flat seam Bound
seam
 What is a stich ? A stich is the configuration of the interlacing of sawing thread in a specific
repeated unit.
18. Classification of stiches
 100 class stich: single thread chain stich One needle thread and one blind loop. Stich class
Thread count Typical uses 101 One thread Light constructions 103 One thread Blind stich for
hemming 104 One thread Blind stich for hemming
 200 class stich: single thread hand sawn stich
 Using one needle thread Stich class Thread count Typical uses 202 One thread Basting 205
One thread Pick stitching
 300 class stich: two or more thread lock stich Using needle thread and one bobbin hook
thread Stich class Thread count Typical uses 301 Two thread Seaming multiple plies 304 Two
thread Zig-zag stitch; a stretch lockstitch 306 Two thread Blind stitch 315 Two thread Three step
zig-zag
 400 class stich: multi thred chain stich Using one more needle thread and one or more looper
threads s Stitch class Thread count Typical uses 401 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies
with moderate stretch 404 Class Two threads Topstitching or seaming with stretch 406 Class
Three threads "Bottom cover stitch; a (greater) stretch chain stitch
 500 class stich : multi thread over edge chain stich Using needle thread and looper thread
Stitch class Thread count Typical uses 501 Class One thread One needle over edge stitch for
serging / “blanket stitch" 502 Class Two thread One needle over edge stitch for serging 503
Class Two thread Over edge stitch for serging with crossover on edge of fabric 504 Class Three
thread Over edge stitch for serging and light seaming
 600 class stich : multi thred cover stich Stitch class Thread count Typical uses 602 Class Four
thread Cover stitch or seaming knits 605 Class Five thread Cover stitch 607 Class Six thread
Wide cover stitch
Name – G.K. Oshan Devinda NDT – Textile and clothing technology [University Of Moratuwa]

Raw Material Of Quality Control

1. 1. a mission with a vision Presentation With Slideshow Course code: TXE-308 Course Title:
Garments Manufacturing Technology-(III)
2. 2. MD. ALI AZOM ROKON Lecturer Primeasia University Department Of Textile Engineering
3. 3. NAME ID  MITHUN CHANDRA DAS (113-166-041)  MAHMUDUL HASAN NILOY (113-
200-041)  KH. ABU SYED (113-143-041)  MD. SHAIFUL ISLAM (121-482-041) 
MD.ZUBAYER HOSSAIN (121-605-041)  MD.ULFAT AL JAHID (093-347-041)
4. 4. Quality control of raw material is the maintaining of all the procedures that are needed to
be taken to produce a quality full product . Maintaining of quality of whole processes helps us
to get the desirable output. quality means customer need is to be satisfied . For maintaining
this whole process different steps , process, procedure are need to be taken to get the
accepted garments out put. The different stages can be raw material inspection, fabric
inspection, sewing thread inspection, garments finishing, packing , cartooning , spot
removing & final inspection .This are the main flow of garments production. there are also
others steps left behind , those will be described step by step thoroughly.
5. 5. 1. To minimize the production of goods within the specified tolerance correctly the first
time. 2. To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garments in relation to the leave of
choice in design , style , color , stability of components and fitness of product for the market.
3. To ensure the quality of finish product or garments is satisfactory for buyer demand .
6. 6. Quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand depends on
the value of money. The systems required for programming and coordinating the efforts of
the various groups in an organization to maintain the desirable quality". As such Quality
Control is seen as the agent of Total Quality Control. In the garment industry quality control
is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished
garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and
standard of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness, surface designs and the final
finished garment products.
7. 7. To ensure, at minimum practicable cost, that the requisite quality of product is being
achieved at every stage of manufacture from raw materials to boxed stock
8. 8. Test Properties of Yarn a) If routine checks are carried out on yarn choose a delivery of
average Tex (count, denier). b) Carry out other appropriate tests on yarn e.g. crimp nylon-
Crimp Rigidity test. Knit a small sample and check that dye is fast to light, washing and
perspiration etc. c) Record details of yarn type, supplier, Tex (denier, count) etc. and pass
information to knitting room.
9. 9. Knitting Specification a) Record all details required to produce the fabric or garment blanks
including chain set out, stitch length and any instrument measurements. b) Record all details
of making the trimmings. c) Note any difficulties encountered e.g. stitch pattern causing
occasional drop stitches. Pass information to making- up room. Making-up Specification a)
Record all details of making-up, including the type and count of the sewing thread, and the
order of seaming the parts. b) Note any difficulties encountered e.g. difficult operation to
attach collar.
10. 10. Test for Physical Properties of Garments a) Record the dimensions of the garment as
soon as it is completed. b) For a fiber of high moisture regain find the weight in correct
condition. c) Wash garment and recheck the measurements. Relation Between Quality
Control with Cost Department a) On completion, supply cost department with all information.
b) For the correct Tex (count, denier) of yarn, costing may be made directly on sample. For a
count which is above or below the average (although within an acceptable tolerance) make
an appropriate adjustment to yarn costs and weight. c) Make an allowance for any
anticipated extra difficulties, or a higher than normal rate of seconds. Subsequent Alteration
a) Make any necessary alterations required by firm or by buyers. b) Record changes at each
stage.
11. 11. To achieve the overall objective we shall need to establish, document and maintain a
system capable of ensuring that products conform in total to standards, specifications and
sealed samples. This will be required at every stage of manufacture. Records must be
maintained to give objective evidence that the specified requirements. There are a number of
factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as - performance,
reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to be defined
in terms of a particular framework of cost.
12. 12. •Sewing defects •Color effects •Sizing defects •Garment defects
13. 13. •Sewing defects – Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same colour
garment, but usage of different color threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in between,
creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some sewing defects
that could occur so should be taken care of. •Color effects – Color defects that could occur
are - difference of the color of final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories
used are of wrong color combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.
14. 14. •Sizing defects – Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part
from other, for example- sleeves of 'XL' size but body of 'L' size. Such defects do not occur
has to be seen too. •Garment defects – During manufacturing process defects could occur
like - faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes,
uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colors.
15. 15. 1. Count Variation: Variation in diameter along the length of yarn beyond acceptable
range. 2. Unevenness or Irregularity: It is mass variation per unit length (cm). This fault is
expressed as U% or CV% and evenness tester is used to measure it. 3. Periodic Faults: If
any fault repeats after a certain length/time then the fault is called periodic or systematic
fault. 4. Hairiness: This is the measure for the protruding fibers from the yarn body. 5. Lot
Mixing: Some times yarn lot can be mixed at the stages of spinning process as well as in the
preparatory section of weaving/knitting mill. This type of mixing causes severe problem in
subsequent processes.
16. 16. 6. Frequently Occurring Faults: These are the faults that occur in range of the 10 to 5000
times per 1000 m of yarn. Yarns spun from staple fibers contain imperfections, which can be
subdivided into three groups: • Thin places: Cross sectional size -30% to -60% of normal
 yarn its fault length of 4 to 25 mm. • Thick places: Cross sectional size +30% to +100% of
normal yarn with fault length of 4 to 25 mm. • Naps: Normal yarn with fault length of 1 mm.
Naps are defined as small tight balls of entangled fibers on linear textile strands.
17. 17. [N.B: The fabric inspection part will be described in raw material inspection classification]
18. 18. 1. Raw material inspection 2. In process inspection 3. Final inspection Raw material
inspection • Fabric inspection • Sewing thread inspection • Trims and accessories check
19. 19. Fabric inspection is an important task to garments manufacturing to avoid rejects due to
fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection is done for
fault / defect rate fabric construction end to end or edge to edge shedding , color , hand / feel
, length / width , print defect and appearance .
20. 20. During stitch fabric frequency breakage of sewing thread is one of the greatest problem
for garment manufacturing .so it is necessary to check. •Thread construction •Suability •Color
•Imperfection •Finish, package •Density •Winding Trims and accessories check •Button
•Zippers •Interlining •label and tags
21. 21. It start from marker making then fabric spreading , fabric cutting , pressing or finishing
checking is done in process. •Marker making •Fabric spreading •Fabric cutting •Sorting
•Fabric sewing •Seam defects •Assembly defects
22. 22. Garments finishing means, mainly applies of pressing to packing of garments. This step
are given below: • Pressing • Folding • Packing • Barcode • Assortment • Metal Check • Spot
Removing and • Cartooning .
23. 23. Pressing is a finishing process done by a cloth to heat and pressure with or without
steam to remove creases and to impart a flat appearance to the cloth or garments. Pressing
In garment industries pressing is also called ironing. After completing pressing the garments
have to be folded.
24. 24. After completing pressing, the garments are folded with a predetermine area. Garments
are folded according to the buyers direction, requirements in a standard area. Folding
25. 25. There are mainly four types of folding. They are – • Stand Up, • Semi Stand Up, • Flat
Pack, • Hanger Pack.
26. 26. Collar is folded and situated at 90* angle. Semi stand up: Collar is folded with body and
situated at 45 degree angle. Semi stand up
27. 27. Collar is separated as a hole on the body of shirt. Flat Pack
28. 28. shirt is packed and transported by hanging on the hanger. Hanger pack At the end of the
folding, garments are placed into a polythene packet.
29. 29. After folding, garments are packing the size of polythene packet is permanent. Specially,
it is needed to ensure the placement of sticker in proper place. Packing
30. 30. Barcode is a specially Buyer wise sticker. Barcode
31. 31. After completing the packing of garments, it must be placed the garments in a
predetermined pack by sorting according to the size and color then garments are packed into
inner box according to the size and color. This process working in order is called assortment.
Assortment
32. 32. Checking the metal type component into the garments or with its accessories like button,
zipper etc. is called metal check. Metal Check
33. 33. Spot removing is one of the special inspections which are done after initial quality check.
Spot Removing
34. 34. At last cartooning or packing the garments according to Buyer comment. The process of
packing of inner boxes entered into the carton is called cartooning. Cartooning The carton is
properly warped by the scotch tape. Some information like carton box no, size, shipping
mark and the destination are printed on the carton.
35. 35. Final inspection is made by buyer. He checks the garments according some rules like
AQL. Final inspection
 36. 36. Good quality products or processes can only be produced by the operatives. They
cannot produce quality without being fully aware of what exactly is required. At last we
conclude that Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. The perceived quality
of a garment is the result of a number of aspects, which together help achieve the desired
level of satisfaction for the customer.

Garments Accessories & Trims

1. Garments Accessories & Trims
2. Prepared by : Mazadul Hasan sheshir Southeast University Department Of Textile
Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Banglade sh
3. Trims, Packing & Finishing AQL (Acceptable Quality Level): The standard definition of
Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) is "the maximum defective percent (or the maximum number
of defects per hundred units) that, for purpose of sampling inspection, can be considered
satisfactory as a process average". Basically, we will randomly select a sampling size quantity
(based on the AQL tables) to be inspected, and after inspection, according to the number of
defects found (critical, major, minor defects), we will advice you to accept or to reject your
shipment.
4. Trims (Contd.) Table A:
5. Trims (Contd.) Table B:
6. Trims (Contd.) Let's take a hypothetical inspection of a 30 000 pieces lot. ► The Table A ,
under the column level II, gives us the letter M, which corresponds in the table B to a sampling
size of 315 pieces to inspect. The usual AQL used by people is generally: 0 / 2.5 / 4 for Critical /
Major / Minor defects. For the letter M, 315 pieces to inspect, the column 2.5 for defects gives us
two numbers: 14 & 15. Thus Among a sampling size of 315 pieces inspected, the maximum
number of major defects authorized is 14. ► If we find 15 major defects, you should reject your
shipment and / or perform defect sorting, ask for a re-work of the production or ask for a
replacement of your production. Then you should get your shipment reinspected a second time.
7. Trims (Contd.) Trims / accessories: Accessories can be divided into 2 groupsa) Sewing
accessories b) Finishing accessories a) Sewing accessories: 1. Sewing thread 2. Interlining: It
may be of 2 types-fusible and non-fusible Also can be divided into 2 other types-woven and
nonwoven TC interlining is widely used to avoid shrinkage problem of 100% cotton interlining.
Pellon (also called paper interlining) is also acceptable to save cost.
8. Trims (Contd.) Uses: Used in waist band, belt loop, fly piece, collar, cuff and any place where
strength of the material is necessary. 3. Lining: extra fabric (different from main/shell fabric) that
is used inside the garment. E.g. Jacket, blazer etc. 4. Elastic: It is made of lycra (Spandex).
Available in different width- ½’’, ¾’’,1’’, 1.5’’,2’’ etc. It may be of different colors and it is
found with different strechability. Uses: For kids (up to 10-11) trousers and shorts, buttonhole
elastic must be used. Also used for the bottom waistband of a jacket, vest or pullover shirt. Also
for pants, shorts and skirts.
9. Trims (Contd.) 5. Zipper: -It has mainly 4 parts- stopper, slider, tape and teeth. -Zipper length
is measured from stopper to stopper. -Tape is normally made of nylon or polyester to avoid
shrinkage. -zipper teeth are normally made of golden brass, antique brass, antique nickel, antique
copper, aluminium, plastic, or nylon. -It may be of several typesa) Half-finished products: chain
and slider b) Finished products: Open-end, close-end etc.
10. Trims (Contd.) 6. Labels: It may be of 2 types- woven label and printed label Normally 3
types of labels are used in apparel industrya) Main label : contains brand name, company name
or country name b) Size label : contains size of the garment. c) Care label : contains fabric
composition and care instructions and also the name of the country of origin. 7. Rib: Used in
collar and cuff of T-shirt and polo shirt.
11. Trims (Contd.) 8. Shoulder Pad: Normally used in blazer and jacket. 9. Hook and loop:
Commercial name is ‘Velcro’. Normally used in stead of button to ease to open and close a
particular part. B) Finishing accessories: 1. Button: May be made of plastic or metal. Normally
size of the button is measured by ‘ Ligne’. 1 ligne = 0.635 mm For example, 1 8L , 24L, 32L etc.
All these in fact refers to the circumference of button.
12. Trims (Contd.) 2. Snap: kind of button with 2 parts. No button hole. 3. Shank button: kind of
button without hole. Eyelet hole (button hole) is needed to attach shank button. 4. Eyelets: Metal
part with hole through which lace, draw string etc passes. 5. Rivets: Metal part with pin and
normally used in denim and canvas pants for decorative purpose. 6. Hook and eye: Metal items
to close waist of pants. 7.Draw string: long rope-type item with stopper to tighten a part of the
garment. 8.Price Ticket: Also known as UPC (Unit price code) ticket in the garment industry. It
is paper-made tag which normally mentions price and bar code. Barcode sticker may be attached
separately on it.
13. Trims (Contd.) 9. Pocket Flasher: Normally used in pockets of trousers. 10.Stay: Used in
collar points of a shirt. 11.Collar stand, neck board and back board: Used in shirt. 12.Hang Tag:
Separate tag hung in a garment.