The Color Guide: Highlift Series Benefits Build Your Business With Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color
The Color Guide: Highlift Series Benefits Build Your Business With Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color
Paul Mitchell the color is a low ammonia, permanent HIGHLIFT SERIES BENEFITS BUILD YOUR BUSINESS WITH PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR ®
KEY BENEFITS
permanent cream hair color ULTRA TONERS BENEFITS
Low ammonia
Color: Equal parts 7NA + 7NB + 20 volume Developer Color: Equal parts 4VR + 4R + 20 volume Developer permanent cream hair color
Processing Time: 35 minutes Processing Time: 35 minutes
Imparts less structural damage to the hair providing a smoother, healthier,
long-lasting result. P aul Mi tche l l t he c o l o r Satin Beech (platinum beige blonde) Red Walnut (subtle auburn)
Starting Level: 8-9 Starting Level: 4-6, excellent for gray coverage
Beeswax base Color: Equal parts 9NB + 9P + 20 volume Cream/Clear Developer Color: Equal parts 5CM + 5N + 20 volume Cream/Clear Developer
Delivers healthy, conditioned hair with outstanding shine and manageability. Paul Mitchell the color has Processing Time: 35 minutes Processing Time: 35 minutes
Superior gray coverage the same degree of ammonia
hair color
hair color
This lower ammonia hair Starting Level: 8 Starting Level: 3-5, excellent for gray coverage
Natural eucalyptus fragrance
color
color
color
Color: Equal parts 8RO+ 8G + 7OR + 20 volume Developer Color: Equal parts 4WM + 4RO + 20 volume Cream/Clear Developer
cream
cream
cream
cream hair
cream hair
permanent
permanent
permanent
Offers clients an invigorating hair coloring experience. Processing Time: 35 minutes Processing Time: 35 minutes
permanent cream hair color
of dye intermediates into the
permanent
permanent
permanent
Inventory options hair without extensively raising MUSTANG SALLY (red copper) Rock n’ roll (vibrant auburn)
Salons have the convenience of going straight to the desired even or odd level. the cuticle. The result is Starting Level: 2-3 or lighter Starting Level: 3-5, up to 65% gray coverage
Salons can keep inventory low by mixing even levels to create odd levels. healthy, conditioned hair Color: Paul Mitchell the color 1 oz. 3NN + 1 oz. 4CM + 3 shots Color: Equal parts 4RB + 3VR + 30 volume Cream/Clear Developer
with predictable results. Color Shots Red + 2 oz. 20 volume Cream/Clear Developer Processing Time: 35 minutes
Color-coded packaging
Makes color selection quick and easy in the Color Barsm or the dispensary.
50% TOTAL RECYCLED FIBER, INCLUDING 25% POST-CONSUMER
permanent cream hair color
the golds the warm beiges the reds the cools the ashes the natural ashes the neutral neutrals the neutral beiges the naturals
TONAL G WB OR WC RO WM RB R RR CC RV CM VR P CB A NA NN NB N
BASES ORANGE/RED NATURAL BROWN RED/ RED/RED NATURAL RED/ BROWN VIOLET/ VIOLET/RED VIOLET/ GRAY/BLUE
permanentYELLOW/GOLD
cream hair color YELLOW/ORANGE RED/ORANGE RED BROWN RED RED/VIOLET BLUE/VIOLET GREEN GRAY BROWN NEUTRAL YELLOW
NO BROWN ORANGE/RED ORANGE NO BROWN VIOLET RED NO BROWN NO BROWN NO BROWN
HLpermanent
HLGcream hair color
HIGHLIFT
GOLD BLONDE HLP HIGHLIFT
PLATINUM BLONDE HLA HIGHLIFT
ASH BLONDE HLNB HIGHLIFT
NEUTRAL BLONDE HLN HIGHLIFT
NATURAL BLONDE
10 10G LIGHTEST
GOLD BLONDE 10WB LIGHTEST
WARM BLONDE 10CB LIGHTEST
COOL BLONDE 10A LIGHTEST
ASH BLONDE 10NB LIGHTEST
NEUTRAL BLONDE 10N LIGHTEST
NATURAL BLONDE
9 9G VERY LIGHT
GOLD BLONDE 9WB VERY LIGHT
WARM BLONDE 9P VERY LIGHT
PLATINUM BLONDE 9CB VERY LIGHT
COOL BLONDE 9A VERY LIGHT
ASH BLONDE 9NB VERY LIGHT
NEUTRAL BLONDE 9N VERY LIGHT
NATURAL BLONDE
*NEW *NEW
8 8G LIGHT
GOLD BLONDE 8WB LIGHT
WARM BLONDE 8WC Light Warm
Copper Blonde 8RO LIGHT RED
ORANGE BLONDE 8R LIGHT
RED BLONDE 8CC Light Cool
Copper Blonde 8RV LIGHT RED
VIOLET BLONDE 8CB LIGHT
COOL BLONDE 8A LIGHT
ASH BLONDE 8NB LIGHT
NEUTRAL BLONDE 8N LIGHT
NATURAL BLONDE
*NEW *NEW
7 7G GOLD BLONDE 7WB WARM BLONDE 7OR ORANGE RED 7WC Warm Copper
Blonde 7RB RED NATURAL
BLONDE 7CC Cool Copper
Blonde 7P PLATINUM BLONDE 7CB COOL BLONDE 7A ASH BLONDE 7NA NATURAL ASH
BLONDE 7NB NEUTRAL BLONDE 7N NATURAL BLONDE
6 6G DARK
GOLD BLONDE 6WB DARK
WARM BLONDE 6WC Dark Warm
Copper Blonde 6RO DARK RED
ORANGE BLONDE 6WM MAHOGANY BLONDE 6RB
DARK WARM DARK RED
NATURAL BLONDE 6R DARK
RED BLONDE 6RR RED RED 6CC Dark Cool
Copper Blonde 6RV DARK RED
VIOLET BLONDE 6CM MAHOGANY
DARK COOL
BLONDE 6CB DARK
COOL BLONDE 6A DARK
ASH BLONDE 6NN Dark Neutral
Neutral Blonde 6NB DARK
NEUTRAL BLONDE 6N DARK
NATURAL BLONDE
*NEW *NEW NEW
5 5G LIGHT GOLD
BROWN 5WB LIGHT
WARM BROWN 5WC Light Warm
Copper Brown 5RO LIGHT RED
ORANGE BROWN 5WM MAHOGANY BROWN 5RB
LIGHT WARM LIGHT RED
NATURAL BROWN 5R LIGHT
RED BROWN 5RR RED RED 5CC Light Cool
Copper Brown 5RV LIGHT RED
VIOLET BROWN 5CM LIGHT COOL
MAHOGANY BROWN 5VR VIOLET RED 5CB LIGHT
COOL BROWN 5A LIGHT
ASH BROWN 5NA LIGHT NATURAL
ASH BROWN 5NN Light Neutral
Neutral Brown 5NB LIGHT
NEUTRAL BROWN 5N LIGHT
NATURAL BROWN
NEW
NEW
3 3G DARK
GOLD BROWN 3VR VIOLET RED 3A DARK
ASH BROWN 3NA DARK NATURAL
ASH BROWN 3NN Dark Neutral
Neutral Brown 3N DARK
NATURAL BROWN
NEW
1 1N BLACK
*Fall 2008
FORMULATING: APPLICATION:
AUTOMATIC FORMULATION ABOVE OR BELOW Re-pigmentation Formulation Steps COLOR BALANCING PREVIOUSLY COLORED HAIR
Within 2 levels of lift or deposit from the natural level Above When depositing more than 2 levels on overly lightened or processed/damaged hair, re-pigmentation is the key. When coloring previously colored hair, be aware that other hair color products may have progressive or undeveloped dye molecules; this means the old color
1. Determine the natural level/percentage of gray. When formulating more than 2 levels of lift, the dominant pigment at your 1. Identify the target level on Paul Mitchell the color Map. (ex: level 6) may begin processing again. Because hair coloring products are unable to lift artificial hair color, color balancing is recommended prior to the first application of
target level needs to be considered in your formula. Using Paul Mitchell 2. Determine the dominant pigment at the target level. (ex: level 6-red/orange) Paul Mitchell the color. Apply to previously tinted hair only.
2. Identify the target level.
the color Map, follow the Outside Automatic Formulation Steps below. 3. Replace the dominant pigment using the re-pigmentation formulas provided. A re-pigmentation formula should be 2 levels lighter than the target formula
3. Determine the tonal end result desired. for the best end results. DIRE C TION S
4. Refer to the Processing Chart for mixing and timing. More than 2 levels of lift or deposit from the natural level 4. Mix the re-pigmentation formula with equal parts of 10 volume Developer and apply to damp hair. Process for a minimum of 10 minutes. • Mix equal parts of Paul Mitchell Shampoo One , 10 volume Cream Developer and Dual-Purpose Lightener.
®
1. Determine the natural level/percentage of gray. 5. Once the re-pigmentation formula has processed refer back to OUTSIDE AUTOMATIC FORMULATION steps. • Apply to wet hair and emulsify until the slightest change in the previous color is seen.
2. Identify the target level on Paul Mitchell the color Map. 6. Mix and apply the target formula directly over the re-pigmentation formula. If the target color is cool or neutral, wipe off the re-pigmentation formula. • Process approximately 5-10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly, and shampoo with Color Protect® Post Color Shampoo. 1 : 1 : 1
3. Determine the dominant pigment at the target level. (A & NA not recommended)
4. Refer to the Tonal Result Guideline to determine how to neutralize or 7. Timing is started after the target formula is applied. Suggested timing is 35 minutes.
Outside Automatic FORMULATION intensify the pigment. 8. Refer to the Pre-Treatment Chart in the fabric section below to identify specific products for processed or damaged hair.
5. Determine variations of fabric (porosity, condition and texture of hair).
PAUL MITCHELL the color MIXING & APPLICATION
More than 2 levels of lift or deposit from the natural level 6. Refer to the Pre-Treatment Chart for specific products. Re-pigmentation Formulas: • Always mix Paul Mitchell the color levels 1-10 and the Ultra Toners with appropriate developer in equal parts (1:1 ratio).
When formulating “Outside Automatic,” ask yourself these 3 questions: 7. Refer to the Processing Chart for mixing and timing. Target level 8: 2 parts of 10G and 1 part of 8RO with 10 volume Developer • Either Cream or Clear Developer can be used with Paul Mitchell the color.
1. Above or Below Are you lifting or depositing more than 2 levels? Target level 7: Equal parts 10G and 8RO with 10 volume Developer * If using Color Shots, add Color Shots after the color is mixed with Developer. Refer to the Color Shots swatch chart for more information.
2. Tonal Results Desired Do you want Warm, Cool or Neutral results? Below
Target level 6: 8RO with 10 volume Developer 1: 1
When formulating for more than 2 levels of deposit the hair may need to
3. Fabric What is the condition of the hair? Target level 5: Equal parts 6RO and 8R with 10 volume Developer VIRGIN APPLICATION RETOUCH APPLICATION
be re-pigmented. Use the re-pigmentation formulation steps to find the
recommended formula to re-pigment the hair for the results you desire. Target level 4: Equal parts 6R and 6RO with 10 volume Developer 1. Section hair into four quadrants. 1. Section hair into four quadrants.
2. Apply Paul Mitchell the color from scalp to ends. 2. Apply to the regrowth or scalp to ends if color needs refreshing.
3. Comb through using the Detangling Comb. 3. Refer to the Processing Chart for mixing and timing.
Formulating with the color MAP FABRIC 4. Refer to the Processing Chart for mixing and timing. 4.Rinse thoroughly, and follow with Paul Mitchell Color Protect ®
5. R
inse thoroughly, and follow with Paul Mitchell Color Protect ® Post Color Shampoo and Color Protect Daily Conditioner.
®
For the best color results you may need to pre-condition the hair prior to applying
• 91 intermixable colors Paul Mitchell the color.
• 5 intermixable highlift colors
HAIR TYPE PRE COLOR
• 5 intermixable ultra toners Follow this system to determine the condition of the hair.
• 5 intermixable Color Shots® Rate the hair in the following 3 categories: Elasticity, Porosity and Texture Shampoo Two ®
highlift series MIXING & APPLICATION *GRAY COVERAGE
Virgin/Healthy Awapuhi Moisture Mist ®
TONAL BAS ES For elasticity and porosity For texture grade the Example: • *For maximum gray coverage on levels 1– 8, select the color desired from
Use Paul Mitchell the color Map and the Tonal grade the hair in the hair in this manner Your client’s hair: • Mix the Highlift Series with Cream Developer
Shampoo Two ® any of the tonal bases excluding the A, OR, RR, VR + P Series.
Chart below to determine what tonal series to use following manner only (1:2 ratio) for maximum lift.
Elasticity – virgin/healthy = 1 Normal-to-Dry Super-Charged
to Neutralize or Intensify. Virgin/Healthy =1 Fine =1 •F
or natural gray blending on levels 8–10, add a portion of the N, NB, WB, CB, CC
Porosity – normal/dry =2 Moisturizer ®
the golds G brown with yellow/gold Normal/Dry =2 Medium = 2 1: 2 or WC color to the formula in percentages shown in the chart below.
Texture – fine =1
the warm beiges WB beige with yellow/orange
Processed/Damaged = 3 Coarse = 3 Chemically-treated
Shampoo Three ®
Total = 4
OR orange/red with no brown
to Damaged
Hair Repair Treatment or ®
Portion of the N,
th
Once you have graded each area, add all 3 together to come up with one final score. on levels 8, 9
CB color to add to other color
tu
RO red/orange with brown • Mix the Highlift Series with Cream Developer and 10
ra
Find the final score below to determine the hair’s overall condition. formula
WM
l
als RR
5WC
N
*
ne
6N
*
al
1/ oz/7.5 ml - 1 3/4 oz/52.5 ml -
N
25% - 50% 4
5N
2
CM
n
USES MIXING AND PROCESSING TIMING WITH OR W/O 1. Section hair into four quadrants. 50% - 75% 2
the cools P violet with no brown COLOR SHOTS 3/ oz/22.5 ml 1 1/4 oz/37.5 ml
CB beige with blue/violet 2. A
pply color 1/2” from the scalp to the point where the ends show 4
5 1 to 2 levels of lift or deposit + gray coverage* 20 volume Developer on dry hair 35 minutes
6 CC* A damage or porosity. 3/
7C CC*
the ashes gray/blue with no brown
4 oz/22.5 ml - 1 1/4 oz/37.5 ml -
8C C* the natural ashes NA green with brown 2 to 3 levels of lift + gray coverage* 30 volume Developer on dry hair 35 minutes 3. Process for 20 minutes. 75% - 100%
C*
permanent
1 oz/30 ml 1 oz/30 ml
the neutral neutrals NN gray/brown with brown
3 levels of lift + gray coverage* 40 volume Developer on dry hair 35 minutes 4. Remix and apply color to the root area and then to the ends.
the neutral beiges NB neutral beige
5. Process for an additional 45 minutes.
the naturals N brown with yellow 4 levels of lift Double 40 volume Cream Developer on dry hair 45 minutes
highlifts 6. R
inse thoroughly, follow with Color Protect Post Color Shampoo
®
TONAL RE S ULT GUIDELINES 4 levels of lift with more tone 40 volume Cream Developer on dry hair 45 minutes
and Color Protect Daily Conditioner.
®
intensify same as the dominant pigment tone to balance moisture. For fine hair, formulate 1/ to 1 level lighter. For coarse hair, formulate 1/ to 1 level darker.
2 2
at the target level. Reminder: Color Shots do not alter the processing time of Paul Mitchell the color. *For more tonal deposit when using the NN Series on resistant gray add an additional 10 minutes of 5-10 minutes. Printed in the U.S.A. (TCG)
processing time.