7/21/2021 APM: Pattern making terms

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APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)
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Pattern making terms

APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

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Lesson 2 : Basic Pattern Making Terms And Definitions-I
Pattern making terms

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1 1. Pattern: patterns are two dimensional templates or guides for
cutting fabric to stitch a garment. Patterns are made by professional
2
pattern makers on a pattern paper. (figure 1)
ttern making
2. Pattern drafting: It is a system of pattern making which depends on
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measurements taken from a form or model to create basic, foundation
ferences
or design patterns. For e.g. draft of basic pattern set.
sessment 3. Flat Pattern Making: Flat pattern making is a method of pattern
3 making on the flat. A basic pattern previously made to fit the dummy
4 or individual figure, and is used as a basic for making other patterns.
5 It is a system of pattern making which depends on previously
6
developed basic pattern. In flat pattern making manipulations are
done by using slash and pivotal method to create new designs.
7
8 4. Basic pattern set: This is a five-piece pattern set. These five pieces
9 are; front and back bodices, a full sleeve and front and back skirt. The
10 dimensions of basic pattern are specific to a form or figure. It is
developed without any design features. For making flat patterns of
11
different designs, basic pattern is always traced and then further
12
modifications by slash and spread techniques are done. The traced
13 copy of basic pattern is referred to as working pattern. (figure 1)
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15
5. Block or foundation pattern: The function of a block or
16 foundation pattern is to provide a simple outline of bodice, skirt or
sleeve, from which every kind of style pattern can be developed. Block
patterns also serves as a map or chart for recording useful information
regarding the shape, proportions and even posture of a figure, average
or individual.
6. Working pattern: This is any pattern used as a base for creating
new designs by manipulations, usually by slashing and pivoting.
Working patterns consist basic back and front bodice, skirt and
sleeve,, and other foundation patterns derived from them. The
sleeve
patternmaker should choose the pattern that closely relates to a
specific design without having to develop a complete new pattern.
This saves time, as part of the design detail has already been worked
out. These working patterns should remain seamless unless the
patternmaker is experienced, as seamless patterns are easier to
manipulate and develop.
7. First pattern: this is the original pattern developed for each design.
Pattern is made by marking paper with required fitting and
adjustments. First pattern is developed only half unless the design is
asymmetrical.
8. Production Pattern: This is the pattern set that is finalized
according to the final requirements of and garment. It is corrected,
perfected and modified pattern. It contains every pattern piece to
complete the garment. The production pattern is used by pattern
grader for grading sizes of the pattern and for making the marker
maker for layout.
9. Marker making: it is also called layout or lay. it is the process of
determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces on the fabric.
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7/21/2021 APM: Pattern making terms

Markers are made to fit the cuttable width of the fabric so that
maximum utilization of the fabric can be done. It is done according to
the specific design or style, fabric and distribution of sizes. This
process of arrangement requires large amount of time, skill and
concentration. Marker making can be done manually or by
computers.
10. Computerized marker making: it is fast and less tedious process
of making marker with great efficiency and accuracy. It has more
options of arrangements and leads to best material utilization. Many
automatic marker-maker software are available in the market.
(figure 2)
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11. Marker maker: The layout marking of production pattern is done

by marker maker to minimize the wastage of fabric. It is done on
marking paper and the maker is either pencil marked, photo marked
or marked on a computer system.
12. Pattern grain line: The pattern grain line is drawn on each part or
each piece of a pattern from one end to another end. The grain line of
a pattern indicates how the pattern should align or place with the
length wise grain of the fabric. The grain line of the pattern will
always be placed on the fabric so that it is parallel to selvedge of
fabric. Grain line may drawn anywhere in the pattern but it follows
the above rule. (figure 3)
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13. Grain line Arrows: Grain line of a pattern has small arrows on its
either or both ends. (figure 3)

Arrows placed at both ends of a grain line shows that the top of
the pattern may be placed in either direction along the length
wise grain of the fabric. (Fabric without nap, uniform pattern
etc.)
An arrow placed at the one side of pattern grain line, either top
or bottom, indicate that the pattern must be placed in one
direction only depending on direction of arrow.(e.g. for napped
fabric, one directional pattern etc.)

14. Pattern Chart: The pattern chart is a complete record of all pattern
pieces within the pattern set. Each pattern shape is identified by name
and number of pieces to be cut. A colour code is used to distinguish
lining & inter linings from actual pattern pieces. It also includes
swatches and any other special detail regarding pattern. Sometimes
sewing guide is also enclosed.
15. Cost sheet: The record of all garment details is found in the cost
sheet and is used in costing the garment and establishing the
wholesale price. It includes name and numbers of salespersons, fabric
and trim companies, fabric swatches, sketch and other relevant
information that help in costing the garment. (figure 4)
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16. Design specification sheet: it is a record of all finishing

requirements for each design. It is used by people who are responsible
for finishing the garment and to ensure that garment meets all the
standards set by the company/buyer.

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