Basic Sewing

[Contents]

Chapter 1 Hand sewing·········································································1

1. Using a Thimble··········································································1
2. Running stitch·············································································1
3. Basting stitch··············································································8
4. Diagonal basting··········································································8
5. Even back stitch··········································································8
6. Half back stitch···········································································9
7. Padding stitch·············································································9
8. Tailor tack················································································10
9. Catch stitch··············································································10
10.Slip stitch·················································································11
11. Diagonal basting········································································11
12.fell stitch··················································································11
13.Blanket stitch············································································12
Chapter 2 Thread buttons······································································13
2. Button·····················································································13
3. Snaps······················································································15
4. Hooks and Eyes·········································································16
5. Printed buttons··········································································16
Chapter 3 Seam allowance treatment························································23
2. Seam Ⅰ (Seam allowance treatment)················································23
3. Seam Ⅱ (Stitches and Seam Techniques)···········································26
Chapter 4 Zipper················································································64
1. Mock Fly –Front Zipper Application·················································64
2. Invisible Zipper Application···························································65
Chapter 5 Neckline Plackets & Neckline Treatments····································106
1. Shirt Neckline Placket································································106
2. Budget Shirt Neckline Placket·······················································111

CHAPTER 1 Hand sewing

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1. Using a Thimble

A thimble protects your finger from being pricking as you push the needle through
layers of fabric. Choose a thimble that comfortable feet’s the middle finger on the
hand you use during hand sewing. It is made of metal or plastic.

o Place the thimble on the middle finger of your

right hand if you’re right handed and vice versa
if you’re a lefty.
o Hold your needle between your thumb and
index finger.
o Insert the needle into the fabric and push it through with the side or end of the thimble

2. Running stitch
Running stitch is the simplest, quickest and most basic of all the hand stitches and is
used to ease, gather, mend, baste and sew seams that are not subject to strain. Its used for
basting because the stitches are easy to remove after they are no longer needed. Running

3. Diagonal Basting
Diagonal basting is a series of parallel, horizontal stitches that produce diagonal floats of
thread on the top layer of fabric. This stitch is most often used in tailoring to hold fabric
layers together (not along a stitching line). The stiches control the shifting of fabric
during pressing, fitting and construction. Diagonal basting is perfect for holding a pocket
in place, so it doesn’t shift during stitching.

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4. Catch stitch
Herringbone tends to be a decorative, rather than a structural, stitch. Think of it as doing
two parallel row of backstitch where you alternate which row youre sewing with each
stitch. Is very elastic. The working surface shows a zig-zag with an X at each point. The
underside shows two parallel dashed lines.

5. Tailor tack
Tacks are hand-sewing stitches done during marking or construction. Weave loop thread
to mark dots and symbols, but you must cut the loops before you remove the pattern. A
basting stitch taken with a double thread through two pieces of fabric and then cut apart
with large loops being left in each piece for marking seam lines and perforations.

CHAPTER 2 Thread button

Buttons can be fascinating, functional, and fashionable. They are fascinating because of their
many sizes, shapes, colors, and designs. They are factional because they are one of the major

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methods of opening and closing garments. Buttons are fashionable because they also decorate
and enhance apparel &other items. Buttons are generally sewn on by hand, though they can
also be zigzagged in place on the machine as well. Buttons are traditionally placed
on the garment left for women’s garments and on right front for men’s garments,

2 Button
There are two basic kinds of buttons- sew –thru buttons and shank buttons. Thru
button
Is usually fiat with two or four hole.. A shank button has a solid top and a built-in
shank.

2.2 4-Hole Button

1 Take twelve inches of thread, knotted securely at one end, and thread your needle. Make
a single stitch in the shirt in line with the row of buttons, about 0.3cm long. And then
make another stitch perpendicular to the first.
2 Hold the buttons, about 0.3cm away from the shirt and thread the needle up through one
hole in the button and down the diagonally opposite hole. Do the same with the other
holes and then repeat four times.
3 Wrap the thread tightly around the 0.3cm shank that has been created between the button
and the cloth create a tight pillar.
4 Push the needle through this pillar a few times and cut the thread close to it.
5 Button up.

2.3 2-Hole Button

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 Thread needle with to match button. Take a small stitch where button is to be placed.
Poke needle through button hole holed button in place over small stitch.
 Place straight pin across top of holes. Sew with thread going over top of pin and
down in opposite hole. Do this at least 6 times.
 Remove pin
 Poke needle so thread comes out under button, but on top of fabric so you can
TIGHTLY wrap threads around the middle of the stitches 4 times. This creates a
thread shank
 Poke needle to back of fabric. Stitch in place3 times to make a secure knot. Trim
thread.

CHAPTER 3 Seam allowance treatment

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 Seams are worked on the same principle as hems. If a cloth is fine, lightweight
or tends to fray it should be doubled over if it thick, heavy and does not fray it
should be overlapped, from the surviving sewn fragments, it would seem that
just about any combinations of over sewing and running stitches which can be
used were used.

3. Seam 1 (Seam allowance treatment)

3.1 Plain Seam

THE PLAIN SEAM is the most common seam and is used to two pieces of fabric together. The
width of the seam is usually 1.5cm for industrial sewing.

3.2 Pinking Seam;

 This is an ideal technique for fabrics that don’t fray too easily very good

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 for light fabrics, when you don‘t want to add bulk to the seam. If is quick
and easy not too bulky. Snip away the fabric leave a pinked edge

3.3 Overlock seam: is best for finishing seam edges. It can also be used to stitch
flat lock seams. A flat lock seam is usually sewn with the wrong sides of the
fabric together. The seam is then pulled so the seam allowances slip and lie flat
inside the stitching.

3.4 plain seam with bound edges

A seam with bound edges plain requiers a bias tape and is desirable when
sewing with fabric that fray easily. It is also used to bind the seame when sewing with furs.

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3 Seam II (Stitches and seam Techniques)
3.1 Plain seam with edge stitch

THE CLEAN CLAEN _ EDGE method of finishing a plain seam helps to

keep the seam fiat and prevent it also helps finish raw edges of open seams.

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3.2 Welt Seam

AWELT SEAM FINISH allows the plain seem to be detailed with topstitching
in the same color thread as the garment or in a contrasting color thread

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3.3 Open Welt Seam

AN OPEN WELT SEAM forms a small tuck and emphasizes a construction

detail. This, of course, adds interest to a plan fabric.

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3.4 Slot Seam

ASLOT SEAM is desirable when a strip co fabric in a matching or contrasting

is added to the garment. This also adds a little bit of spice to an otherwise plain
seam.

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3.5 Flat _ Felled Seam

AFLAT _ FELLED SEAM provides a neat attractive finish to both sides of the
garment. This type of seam is usually used for sport clothes and reversible
garments.

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3.6 French seam
A French seam is a seam within a seam and can be used on sheer fabrics or
lingerie. It is not recommended for curved seams.

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3.7 corded seam
A corded seam is as decorative seam or edge and can be used as a design feature

3.8 curved seam (press seam)

A curved seam, in most cases, creates the style line of the garment, such as on
princess seams, bodice or skirt or yikes.

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3.9 Right - Seam or Corner Turns and then press the right side
A seam with a corner turn is usually featured in a style line.
The sewing method used to turn a corner can be applied to any angular
found no many parts of sewing method used to turn a corner can be applied to
any angular found on many parts of a garment.

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 Chapter -4
4.1 Darts & Tucks
DARTS AND TUCKS are two of the most basic structural elements in sewing. Darts
are found most often in the bodice, on skirts, pants, and sleeves. Tucks are usually located on
skirts and pants.
DARTS are used to build a definite shape from a flat piece of fabric which will allow the
fabric to conform to a particular contour or curve of the body. Tucks are used to control and
release
Fullness where it is needed by the figure as well as to create design details or some
garments. Tahy can be formed on the inside or outside garment.
Darts and tucks must be positioned and sewn accurately if they are to emphasize the lines of
the body.
Mark the dart construction symbols from the fabric precisely.
1.2 Straight Tapered Dart

Straight Tapered Dart is the basic dart styled in a bodice, or sleeve to give a smooth
rounded fit. Transfer Dart Markings Transfer dart markings from the pattern to the
wrong side of fabric. Snip the ends of the dart lines.

Place a pin through the pattern and both layers of the fabric 1.5cm before the end of the
dart tip. With a Choke mark this position of the dart on the fabric.

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1 With correct sides of fabric together, fold dart so that snip ends match.

2 Continue to fold dart (along center line) to the punch hole or Choke mark.

3 If necessary, pin and Choke in the stitch line.

4 Start sew (and hole is caught). Mark sure the needle enters the fabric exactly on the
fold at the stitch line for a couple of stitches

5 Following the stitch line exactly, continue to stitch the dart from the narrow to the
wide end (toward the snip). Backstitch and clip the threads.
6 Press dart excess toward center or top. Press from wrong side only.

1.3 Cut-away Dart

ACUT- a WAY DART is used in garments that require extremely wide dart
(primarily in bodice front). A cut away dart reduces bulk in the finished dart
area. The dart is stitched like a seam and then pressed open.

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2 Release Tucks

RELEASE TUCKS are used to control fullness and then release it a desired
point, such as at the bust or hips. Sometimes, can be released at both ends of
the release tuck. The spacing between each tuck depends on the effect desired
in the finished garment.

2.2 Transfer Tuck Markings

Transfer tuck, markings from the pattern to the wrong side of the fabric.
Snip the ends of the tuck lines. Place a pin through the pattern and both

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layers fabric. Mark with choke the desired stitch line.

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 Chapter -5

Bias & bias treatments

5.1 Bias Bindings

BIAS BINDINGS are used to finish and strengthen a raw edge or to add

a decorative trim to a garment.in some cases, Bias binding are also used to
create tubing used for button loops, spaghetti straps, belts, or ties,

1.2 Cutting Bias Strips

BIAS BINDINGS are cut from fabric on the true bias so that the binding is
more pliable and can be easily shaped to all edges. Therefore, it is necessary
to cut join strips of bias fabric accurately.

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1.3Joining Bias strips
AN ADEQUATE NUMBER OF BIAS STRIPS
Binding before starting to sew bias binding, facing, spaghetti
tubing, etc.

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1.4single bias binding
Single bias binding is used to finish and strengthen a raw edge also to
add a decorative trim to a garment. In some cases it may replace a
facing at the neckline, sleeve, or armhole edges.
o Prepare bias strip
Use 3 cm wide strip of bias (either in the same or contrasting color of
the garment) or purchase a commercially prepared double-fold bias
tape. Refer to cutting and joining bias strips, see above.

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 Chapter -6 Zipper

6.1 Mock fly- front zipper application

The mock fly- front zipper application is most often used as front closing for
pants. Some skirt designs also require this application. This is the less
complicated method of inserting a fly- front zipper.

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6.2 Invisible zipper application

An invisible zipper, instead of a conventional zipper, is used if it is

desirable to retain the look of a plain seam look.

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 Chapter -7 pockets
7.1 Pockets
Pocket are the most obvious details on women’s and men’s garments.
Besides being functional, they add style to the design of the garment.
Pockets are designed in a variety of sizes and shapes and can be applied
to the outside of the garment or sewn into the garment itself, such as a
welt or buttonhole pocket. Each type of pocket requires its own special
method of application as you will see in this chapter.
7.2 patch pockets 1
Patch pockets are both decorative and useful and are most often found on
shirts, blouses, dresses and jackets. They are made from a single later of fabric
which is hemmed and sewn to outside of garment with a finish suitable to the
fabric. Patch pockets can be square, rectangular, pointed or curved and may be
decorated with braid or other trims.

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7.3 front hip pocket
The front hip pocket usually starts at the waist and ends at the side seam. It is
used in skirts and both women’s and men’s pants. The opening edges of front
hip pockets are often designed in a variety of shapes, such as square, diagonal,
or slightly curved.

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7.4 pockets with flaps

Pocket flaps add more style when used to when used to cover the top of a patch
or bound pocket on simple garments, such as on a tailored shirt or vest for men
or women. Pocket flaps may be round or square at the lower corners.

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 WELT POCKETS

1. Single welt pocket

Single welt pocket are frequently used in designer coats and suit jackets as well
as in pants, skirts, blouse, and shirts on women’s, men’s and children’s wear.
For different than the futures, the fabric used for the welt may be different than
the fabric used for the garment. Although the process for sewing welt pockets is
simple, very precise construction steps are required.

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2. Double welt pocket 1

Double welt pocket resembles a bound of a heavier or bulkier weight fabric

rather than the one-piece bound buttonhole pocket. A lining fabric is required
for the inside pocket pieces to prevent bulk.

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 3.Double welt pocket 11 With flap

Double welt pocket are frequently in coats and suit jackets as well as in tailored
skirts and shirts. For different styling features, the fabric used for the flap lining
may be different than the fabric used for the garment. Although this pocket is
similar to the other bound pockets, the outside pocket pieces are different.

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 Chapter- 8

Sleeve & sleeve treatment

1. Shirt sleeve placket

A SHIRT SLEEVE PLACKET is usually interested into a women’s or

men’s tailored shirt or jacket sleeve while the sleeves is still flat and
before it is sewn into the garment. This placket opening has a top and
under piece requiring more sewing steps than a one piece placket
opening.

2. Shirt cuff

A shirt cuff can be used to finish a sleeve at the wrist. This type of cuff is
most often seen on women’s blouses and women’s and men’s shirts.
The cuff-end seams are sewn after one layer of the cuff is sewn to the
sleeve.

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 Chapter -9 Collars designs
COLLARS enhance the neckline of a garment and contribute
significantly to the total look of the garment. Many styles and shapes of
collars require specific fabrics and construction techniques. All collars
must be made and attached carefully for a professional appearance. Some
of the more popular collars are described here. The basic difference
among the various collars is the way they encircle the neck edge-some
collars lay flat, some collars roll, and other collars stand up.

 Convertible collar

The convertible collar is a front opening collar and can be worn either open or
close. This type collar is considered a stand collar and falls flat with pointed
ends on the front. This style is suitable for almost any of garment from casual to
dressy.

 Peter pan collar

The Peter Pan collar is usually rounded in shape and can be designed as one
piece or as two pieces for font and back openings. The collar lies flat on the
garment with a slight roll over the neckline.

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  Shirt collar with separate stand

A tailored shirt collar usually has a stand around the neck placed between the
actual collar and the shirt. This stand raises the collar so it’s finished edge will
fall smoothly back over the neck edge.

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 Chapter -10

Neckline Plackets & Neckline Treatments

1. Shirt neckline placket

Plackets are used to reinforce the necklines of garments where an opening
is desired. The shirt placket is an ideal neckline finish for an opening on a
women’s or men’s shirt. A neckline shirt placket is very similar to the

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 sleeve shirt placket. However, one difference is that the under placket in
the shirt neckline is lightly smaller than the top placket.

Prepare Garment

When the finished neckline shirt placket is wider than 3 cm, the opening at the
neckline is usually cut out. The amount that is cut out depends upon the finished
width of the placket pieces. Follow the pattern to determine this opening

Cut two pattern pieces: an under placket and a top placket. The under placket
should be slightly smaller in width than the top placket. If necessary, attach
interfacing to the wrong side of one-half of both placket pieces

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 Budget Shirt Neckline Placket
This method for inserting a neckline placket is faster and less costly. However, there

is an unfinished look on the inside of the garment. It should be used only for less

expensive or “budget” garments.

Prepare Garment

When the finished neckline shirt placket is wider than 1 inch, the opening at the

neckline is usually cut out. The amount that is cut out depends upon the finished

width of the placket pieces. Follow the pattern to determine this opening

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2 Neckline or Armhole Facings
NECKLINE OR ARMHOLE FACINGS are used to conceal raw edges of the garment,

add support to the garment, and create smooth, flat edges on the garment.

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