INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES

Apparel: clothes, especially those worn on a formal occasion.

Draping: Draping is the process of transforming a clothing design into a three-

dimensional form.

YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM

The count of yarn is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or size of the yarn.
Since yarn is the compressible textile material it is not possible to measure its fineness by any
of the testing instrument so it is usually expressed in terms of linear density or count. The
method of calculation of count number is called yarn numbering system.

DIRECT SYSTEM:
In this system of yarn count, the length of yarn remains constant, and the weight of yarn
varies according to the fineness of yarn. As the number (count) of yarn increases, the yarn
becomes coarser. Following count systems are being used today:
DENIER
This system is most commonly used to express the count of a continuous filament yarn of
man-made or re-generated fires. The weight of yarn in grams of 9000 meters of yarn is called
denier of a yarn. Yarn becomes coarser as the denier of a yarn increases. It is very simple to
find out the denier of any yarn.

TEX
It is generally used to express the fineness of continuous filament yarn. The weight in grams
of 1000 meters of yarn is called Tex of a yarn. When the Tex of yarn increases, the yarn
becomes coarser. It is very easy to calculate the Tex of a yarn. First of all measure a length of
1000 meters from yarn package, then find out its weight with the help of weighing scale. The
weight of this length in grams will be the Tex of a yarn.
INDIRECT SYSTEM
In this system of yarn cunt, the weight of yarn remains constant and the length of yarn varies
according to the fineness of yarn. As the number (count) of yarn increases the yarn becomes
finer.
ENGLISH COUNT SYSTEM (Ne): The number of hanks (skein) of 840 yards in a pound
is called new English count (Ne). Since this system is generally used to express the fineness
of cotton count, therefore people call it cotton count also. When the count of yarn increases,
the yarn becomes finer. 
WORSTED COUNT SYSTEM (Nw): the number of hanks of 560 yards in one pounds.

Where these systems are used?

 English count system (Ne): this system is used for cotton and cotton blends or almost
in spun yarns.
 Worsted count system: These are used for worsted yarns.
 Metric system: These are used in woollen yarn or yarn from wool fibres.
 Tex system: These are used for filament yarns.
 Denier system: These are used in filament yarns.

TESTING TEXTILE
What we want in Apparel?
As a customer, when we purchase any apparel, we look:
 Quality
 Price

Quality means?
All these factors can be assessed only by:
 TESTING ,&
 QUALITY OF PRODUCT IS CONTROLED BY PERFORMING THE
TESTING
STANDARD TEST METHODS
Standard rules and guidelines to perform the test, which is generated by standard bodies.
 Globally different countries follow different test methods.

How testing to be done?

Now a days, big question is that How the test to be performed?
To get reproducible/similar results:
We need to have standard guidelines- called Standard test method.
By this, do we get same results?
Even after performing testing as per standard test method, results vary? Due to different
environmental or atmospheric conditions:-
 Temperature
 Relative humidity

What is a solution?
Hence, we have to standardize these Atmospheric conditions:
 Temperature
 Relative humidity
To get reproducible results.

Selection of tests?
Selection of tests: is critical and important:
 End use?
Inner wear, swim wear etc.
 Country of destination?
US,EU, etc.

Selection of test parameters?

Suggest critical test for following:
1. Inner wear & shirts
-CF to perspiration?
2. Towel
-Absorbency?
Color fastness?
Color fastness:
 It is Resistance to change of color.
 Hoe fast is color?

Parameters affecting color fastness:

 Proper selection of dyes
Different dyes have different color fastness properties.
Color fastness by Rubbing: It is due to transfer of color from one surface to another surface
principally by rubbing.

Machine and material used:

 Crock meter
 Crock cloth
 Distilled water, Blotting paper
 Grey scale ( staining)
 Color matching cabinet.

Standard cotton fabric is rubbed against the surface of colored textile specimen to check the
Transfer of color.
 Crockmeter

Color fastness by washing

When clothes are washed with detergent, fabric looses color due to abrasive action during
hand or machine washing. One garment also strain other garment when washed together
sometime:
In CF washing test, we check the following:
 Change in color
 Straining on adjacent fibers.

Multifiber Adjacent fabric

To check the staining on other fibers, Multifiber strip is used. It has generic kinds of fibers
which are commonly used such as:
 Wool
 Acrylic
 Polyester
 Nylon
 Cotton
 Acetate

CF to Water
Sometimes, wet clothes are left in the washing machine or in a basket for a period of time&
remain in contract with other fabric before drying.
In CF to water test, we check the following:
 Change in color
 Straining on adjacent fibers
But with no detergent and no abrasive action.

 To perform this test, we use perspiometer and oven.

  Multifiber strip
 Grading scales

Perpirometer

CF to Perspiration
Human Perspiration is acidic/ alkaline in nature which sometimes causes color change in
fabric and staining to other textile fibers.
In CF to perspiration test, we check the following:
 Change in color.
 Staining or adjacent fibers

CF to Light
CF to light refers to ability to textile to resist fading or color change when exposed to light.
It is assessed by exposing the fabric to a light source is light machines, - Artificial light
source
-Xenon Arc lamp.

AATCC methods :-
 for US market
 water cooled m/c
 exposure time is defined
 assessment with grey scales

ISO methods: - For EU market –

 air cooled machines
 exposure time as per blue wool standards
 assessment is against blue wool standards
Interpretation of results:
End result of any color fastness test is a grade given to the tested samples.
Grade 5- NO CHANGE
Grade 4- SLIGHT CHANGE
Grade 3- NOTICEABLE CHANGE
Grade 2- CONSIDERABLE CHANGE
Grade 1- SEVERE CHANGE

Woven

WOVEN FABRIC TERMINOLOGIES

 Grain-
 Warp & End-
  Weft & Pick-
 Selvedge-
 Bias-
YARN DENSITY
 Yarn density in warp is more than the weft density.
 EPI>PPI
 Generally, ends per inch is more than picks per inch
GSM
COTTON WET PROCESSING
 Pretreatment- All the treatment which is carried out before the main
Treatment i.e. Dyeing and Printing.
 Treatment – Dyeing and Printing
 Post treatment – All the post processes after dyeing and printing i.e
Finishing.
WET PROCESSING
Singeing

The process of burning the protruding unwanted fibers on the yarn

surface to a smooth surface finish on fabrics. This process is done to avoid pill
formation.
Desizing
The process of removing the size material imparted to the yarn during
sixing process so that dyeing and finishing materials can be absorbed as
evenly as possible.
Scouring
The process of removing natural fats, waxes, proteins and other
constituents, as well as dirt, oil and other impurities present in the grey fabric.
It improves the water absorbency properties of the fabric.
Bleaching
It is the process of removing the natural colouring matter from the fabric
to give the fabric more whiteness.
 Mercerising
It is the process of improving the lustre, bulkiness, dye affinity and
strength by treating the fabric with caustic soda.

DYEING
 Stock dyeing
 Yarn dyeing
 Fabric dyeing
 Garment dyeing
CLASSES OF FINISH
 Aesthetic
That influence the luster, texture, drapability, hand and surface of
The fabric.
 Calendaring: Process of pressing or ironing a fabric at high speed
And at high pressure.
 shearing: Process of cutting off surface yarn from the fabric.
 Napping: Process of raising the fibers from the surface of the
Fabric.
 Functional
That alters the performance and contributes a specific attribute to
The fabric in some way.

PROPERITIES OF FIBRE

COTTON
 Comfortable to wear
 Natural, cellulosic fiber
 Absorbs water and breathes
 Slow to dry
  Resists static electricity build-up
 Wrinkles easily
 Can withstand heat, detergents and bleach
 Can be damaged by prolonged exposure to sunlight

WOOL
 Wool fiber are roughly oval in cross section and grow in a more or less wary from
with a certain amount of twist. The finer wool is the more crimp.
 Keratin is a complex protein and is atmospheric in nature. So wool can be dyed with
acid or reactive dyes.

SILK
 Length: 1000-1300 yds.
 Fineness
 Absorbency
 Medium tenacity but higher than wool
 High lusture
 High crystallinity and triangular cross selection shape
 Drapability
 Scroop
 Lowest UV light resistance