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BCI Conversion Factors Multipliers Oct 2020 1

This document provides conversion factors and multipliers to help calculate total annual cotton consumption for Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) members. It discusses background concepts like definitions of cotton fibers and the textile production process. It then describes the methodology used, which involved surveys of BCI members, to determine average fiber loss rates at different stages of production. Finally, it outlines the results of these surveys regarding conversion rates and multipliers for spinning, weaving/knitting, and cutting/trimming to account for fiber losses during manufacturing.

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Prashant Patil
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
1K views

BCI Conversion Factors Multipliers Oct 2020 1

This document provides conversion factors and multipliers to help calculate total annual cotton consumption for Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) members. It discusses background concepts like definitions of cotton fibers and the textile production process. It then describes the methodology used, which involved surveys of BCI members, to determine average fiber loss rates at different stages of production. Finally, it outlines the results of these surveys regarding conversion rates and multipliers for spinning, weaving/knitting, and cutting/trimming to account for fiber losses during manufacturing.

Uploaded by

Prashant Patil
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 24

Measuring Cotton

Consumption:
BCI Conversion
Factors and
Multipliers
Better Cotton Initiative

Version 1.0 – October 2020


Table of Contents

1. Introduction 3

2. Background Concepts 4

3. Methodology 7

4. Conversion Rates, Fibre Loss


Rates and Multipliers 8

5. Better Cotton Claim Units (BCCUs)


Calculations18

6. Next Steps 21

Annex 1: Methodology 22

Acknowledgements23

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
1. Introduction

For retailers and brands, assessing total


annual cotton consumption is the first step
towards becoming a BCI Member. It forms an
important part of the following fundamental
aspects of an RB Membership:
Membership Fees paid to BCI
 olume-Based Fees (VBF) paid to BCI’s
V
Growth and Innovation Fund
Implementing a Better Cotton sourcing
programme
 aking credible claims using the Better
M
Cotton Claims Framework.
Through this document, BCI provides
conversion factors and multipliers to be
used in calculating total annual cotton fibre
consumption.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
2. Background Concepts

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
2. Background Concepts

2.1. Total Annual Cotton 2.2. What is Included in “Cotton Fibres”?


Consumption “Cotton fibres” include cotton lint, cotton comber noil and recycled cotton. The following
“Total annual cotton consumption” is the definitions are provided to be used in the context of cotton consumption assessment.
total weight of cotton fibres consumed by
the supply chain, after the fibres have been Total Cotton Consumption
separated from the seeds by the ginner,
to make all the cotton-containing products
(for example, jeans, T-shirts or bed sheets)

Recycled
Comber

Cotton
purchased by a BCI Retailer & Brand (RB)

Noil
Cotton Lint
Member for a specific period of 12 months.
 or the apparel and home industry, this
F
typically includes the weight of cotton fibres
consumed by spinners to create cotton-
containing yarns to make the components
Comber Noil: Recycled Cotton: Cotton Lint:
of end products.
Cotton fibre generated as a Cotton regenerated from Cotton fibres that are ready
 or the hygiene, healthcare and consumer
F
by-product of the combed pre-consumer or post- to be spun into yarn after
goods industries, this typically includes
yarn spinning process. consumer textile products being separated from cotton
the weight of cotton fibres consumed by
It is mainly reused in the and waste materials seeds through the ginning
spinners, non-woven fabric manufacturers,
production of open-end through a mechanical or process; also referred to as
paper mills and other end-product
yarns, nonwoven fabrics, chemical process. ‘virgin cotton’.
manufacturers for making end products
hygiene, healthcare and
such as cotton swabs, pet products and
paper products.
toys.

Figure 1: Total cotton consumption of a BCI RB Member involves measuring the weight
of all cotton fibres, including comber noil, recycled cotton and cotton lint. The proportions
shown in the diagram are not representative of actual distributions.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
2. Background Concepts

2.3. Textile Production Process


and Waste Generation WEAVING/ CUTTING/
Cotton fibres are converted into several SPINNING KNITTING TRIMMING
intermediary products before a cotton-
containing end-product is produced.
 t spinning mills, cotton fibres are first
A
converted into different types of yarns
 t fabric mills, yarns are woven or knitted
A COTTON YARN WOVEN/KNITTED END-PRODUCT
into fabrics FIBRE FABRIC
 t manufacturing factories, fabrics are cut
A
and sewn into end-products.
In addition to these major phases of
Cutting and
production, raw and intermediary products
Trimming Waste
also go through dyeing and finishing
processes. Weaving/Knitting
Fibre losses occur at each step of this Waste
production process, affecting a BCI RB
Spinning
Member’s total cotton consumption.
Waste
Manufacturing losses vary between different
levels of supplier in the supply chain,
based on the efficiency of the process,
specifications and the types of raw materials Figure 2: At each step of the manufacturing process, losses mean that the total weight of
used, and the desired specifications of the outputs is lower than the total weight of inputs.
products being produced for customers.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
3. Methodology

Two surveys of BCI Supplier and


Manufacturer Members were carried out
from July to October 2018 and from June to
August 2019, to gather data and information
for this work.
The methodology for data collection and
analysis are described in Annex 1.
A number of organisations, mainly BCI
Members, were also consulted during the
consolidation of the results - Rieter, Paul
Reinhart, Cargill Cotton, Louis Dreyfus
Company, The International Cotton
Association, Cotton Australia and ABRAPA.
Textile Exchange was consulted during the
completion of the work.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

4.1 Member Survey Response


Yarn Realisation Fabric & End-Product
201 BCI Members responded to the two- Rate Survey Multiplier Survey
stage BCI Member survey request from July
to October 2018 and from June to August
2019. This provided important information Countries 5 (IN, BD, PK, CN & TK) 5 (IN, BD, PK, CN & TK)
used to derive the conversion rates, fibre
loss rates and multipliers presented in the Cotton Origin 8 (IN, CN, US, PK, BR,
following section - Section 4.2 - of this AU, Africa & TK)
document. These are critical to improving
how annual cotton consumption is calculated Categories Combed Yarn Denim, Woven
by BCI Members.
Carded Yarn Home Textiles
Data collected were consolidated as
described in Annex 1 and form the basis of Open-End Yarn Circular knits, Flat knits, Socks
the conversion rates, fibre loss rates and Processes: Fabric Dyeing and
multipliers in this document. Finishing, Yarn Dyeing
Apparel: Cut, Make and Trim

Number of Respondents 99 102

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

4.2 Conversion Rates, Fibre Calculating the total cotton consumption


EXAMPLE 1 given the weight of yarn involves multiplying
Loss Rates and Multipliers the yarn weight by 1.35. This “yarn-to-fibre
Consider a spinner consuming 100 kg of cotton fibre to make 74 kg of cotton yarn.
When assessing the total annual cotton multiplier” is calculated by dividing the input
consumption, production process losses weight (100 kg) by the output weight (74 kg).
are considered as part of three important
The challenge when making total annual
parameters:
100kg 74kg cotton consumption calculations is that the
Conversion Rates: The percentage of a input output output weight, usually end-product weight
manufacturing input that is converted to or fabric weight, is the only information
useful output. known by RB Members. Therefore, a set of
multipliers is required to calculate the input
Fibre Loss Rates: The percentage of a
The Conversion Rate from fibre to yarn is therefore 74% weight in cotton fibres.
manufacturing input that is lost as waste in
the manufacturing process. The Fibre Loss Rate is 26% (100% - conversion rate) In the following sections, we provide possible
ranges, expected fibre loss rates and
Multipliers: A mathematical factor used to The Yarn to Fibre Multiplier is 1.35 (ratio of 100 to 74)
different types of multipliers to assist with
convert the weight of manufacturing outputs
total cotton consumption calculations. The
into weight of manufacturing inputs. These
assumptions and calculation methods used
are calculated from conversion rates.
to obtain these figures can be found in the
The difference between these can be best Annex 1.
explained by a short example as follows.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

4.2.1. Fibre Loss Rates and Multipliers: YARNS


The conversion rate for spinning, which is Among the specifications of cotton fibres
often referred to as the yarn realisation rate, consumed, trash content,1 which is Ring-Spun Yarn Function Expected Fibre Average
is one of the most important factors for a mostly determined by growing, harvesting Processes Loss Fibre Loss
spinning mill in terms of the performance of and ginning conditions, is a significant
yarn produced and profitability of the plant. determinant for the yarn realisation rate. It Trash content with attached 4% to 18%; most
varies between 2% and 9%, depending on Blow Room &
The most important factors that determine fibre is removed; fibres are common rate of loss: 14%
the grade of cotton. Carding
this rate are: aligned and further cleaned 10% to 18%
Because of their versatility, ring-spun
the specifications of the cotton fibres
(combed and/or carded yarns) and rotor-spun 8% to 25%; most 16%
consumed Further removal of shorter
yarns (also known as open-end yarns) make Combing common rate of loss:
fibres as comber noil
the type of yarn being produced, and up most of the yarns produced in the world. 14% to 17%
Therefore, for the purposes of this paper,
the desired yarn specifications to be
we have collected data on these three major
achieved. Table 1: Different stages of ring-spinning process
yarn types and used it to determine yarn-to-
fibre multipliers for each type. and the related fibre loss percentages for each stage.

Compared to carded and open-end yarns,


realisation rates for combed yarns differ In Table 1:
significantly. This is because combed yarns  he fibre loss during the blow room and carding process is assumed to be twice as much
T
go through an additional process after the as the trash content in the total cotton fibres consumed at this stage.
carding process, whereby shorter fibres are
“combed” out of the yarn. “ Noil extraction” refers to the generation of the by-product “comber noil” or “cotton
combers”. Comber noil is a raw material stock used in open-end yarn production,
hygiene and consumer products, nonwoven fabric manufacturing and paper production.
 verage fibre loss rates for different stages of the spinning process were calculated
A
based on the most common average loss rates.

1 
Refers to the percentage of non-lint matter (i.e. leaf fragments of the plant) attached to the cotton fibres.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

Spinning is the part of the production process


Yarn Type Possible Range Expected Average Yarn-to- where the largest range of fibre loss rates is
for Fibre Loss Fibre Loss fibre Multipliers observed. It is therefore important to know
the type of yarn used to make the end-
Carded product, in order to help ensure the accuracy
10% to 18% 14% 1.16 of cotton consumption calculations.
(ring-spun yarn)

Combed
21% to 30% 26% 1.35
(ring-spun yarn)

Open-End
6% to 16% 10% 1.11
(rotor yarn)

Table 2: Fibre loss percentages and yarn-to-


fibre multipliers according to yarn type.

Table 2:
 he possible range for fibre loss for carded yarns is equal to the most common expected
T
fibre loss rate during the blow room and carding processes.
 he possible range fibre loss for combed yarns was obtained by combining the most
T
common expected fibre loss for carded yarns and noil extraction rates.
 he possible range for fibre loss for open-end yarns was obtained as a result of the
T
survey ran by BCI among its spinner members.
 he expected fibre loss for different yarn types was equal to the average of the possible
T
ranges for fibre loss. The figure for open-end yarns was adjusted by 1% to be aligned
with the most commonly used rate in the industry.
 he average yarn-to-fibre multipliers were obtained using the formula 1 / (1- Expected
T
Fibre Loss Percentage).

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

4.2.2. Fibre Loss Rates and Multipliers: FABRICS


Fibre loss percentages and fabric-to-yarn
multipliers differ considerably based on Type of Fabric Possible Range Expected Average Fabric-to-
the type of fabric being manufactured. for Fibre Loss Fibre Loss Yarn Multiplier
Consequently, the type of fabric used to
make the end-product should also be Denim 3% to 9% 6% 1.06
known to help ensure increased accuracy in
calculating total cotton consumption.
Woven 6% to 12% 10% 1.11
While fabrics can be categorised in many
ways, for the purposes of this document, the Circular Knit 8% to 16% 12% 1.14
following categories and the corresponding
multipliers for each category were used.
Flat Knit 10% to 15% 13% 1.15

Home Textiles 7% to 14% 11% 1.12

Table 3: Fibre loss percentages and fabric-to-yarn multipliers for products made with
denim, woven, and circular knit fabrics.

In Table 3:
“ Fibre loss” refers to the total weight loss during fabric production. These loss rates were
based on the possible range for fibre loss, which was obtained as a result of a survey of
key BCI Member fabric mills.
“ Expected” could refer to either the average or the median value of the raw data on which
these figures are based. It is referred to as “average” for simplicity.
 hile this guidance document provides “average Fabric-to-Yarn” multipliers for denim,
W
woven and knit fabrics, the multiplier provided for flat knits is the “average end-product-
to-yarn”, following the specificity of the flat knit process.
Some rates were adjusted to create alignment in the industry.
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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

4.2.3. Fibre Loss Rates and Multipliers: END PRODUCTS


In the cut, make, trim (CMT) process, “fibre
loss” for apparel refers to the total weight End-Product Possible Range Expected Average End-
lost during the CMT process. A considerable Type for Fibre Loss2 Fibre Loss Product-to-Fabric
difference in fibre loss is observed between Multiplier
apparel products and home textile products,
in particular. Based on the availability of data, Apparel - Knits /
different multipliers were calculated to assist 13% to 23% 18% 1.22
Wovens
total cotton consumption calculations.
Apparel - Denim 13% to 17% 15% 1.18

Home Textiles 4% to 6% 5% 1.05

Table 4: Fibre loss percentages and end-product-to-fabric multiplier for apparel products.

2
Here, “fibre loss” for apparel refers to the total weight lost during the CMT process.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

4.2.4. Combining Multipliers


End-Product-to-Fibre [A x B x C]
The multipliers in Tables 2, 3, and 4 above
can be used for relevant textile production
cycles to calculate the total cotton Fabric-to-Fibre [A x B] End-Product-to-Fabric [C]
consumption of products at different stages of
production by multiplying them as illustrated
in Figure 3 here. Yarn-to-Fibre [A] Fabric-to-Yarn [B] End-Product-to-Fabric [C]

IF
Yarn-to-Fibre = Multiplier A;
Fabric-to-Yarn = Multiplier B;
End-Product-to-Fabric = Multiplier C,
COTTON YARN WOVEN/KNITTED END-PRODUCT
THEN FIBRE FABRIC
the combined multiplier for
Fabric-to-Fibre = A x B;
AND Cutting and
the combined multiplier for Trimming Waste
End-Product-to-Fibre = A x BxC
Weaving/Knitting
Waste

Spinning
Waste

Figure 3: Figure illustrating how Yarn-to-Fabric, Fabric-to-Yarn and End-Product-to-Fabric


multipliers are used to create Fabric-to-Fibre and End-Product-to-Fibre calculations.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

Customised multipliers can therefore be produced for different end-products, as shown in Table 5.

Home Apparel: Apparel: Apparel: Apparel: Apparel: Yarn and


Multiplier Type
Textiles Denim Wovens Flat Knits Circular Knits Fabric Types Unknown

End-Product-to-Fabric 1.05 1.18 1.22 1.22 1.22


1.15
Fabric-to-Yarn 1.12 1.06 1.11 1.14 1.14

Yarn-to-Fibre (Open-End) 1.11


1.14 1.14
Yarn-to-Fibre (Carded) 1.22
1.26 1.26
Yarn-to-Fibre (Combed)

End-Product-to-Fibre 1.31 1.43 1.54 1.45 1.75 1.70

Fabric-to-Fibre 1.25 1.21 1.27 - 1.44 1.39

Table 5: End-product-to-fibre and fabric-to-fibre multipliers based on fabric, yarn and end-product types.

In many cases, the type of yarn used to produce an end-product may not be known. For To calculate the cotton consumption of individual products using these multipliers, the user
example, retailers and brands may not capture this information from their suppliers. In these should multiply the product weight excluding trims and other accessories by the percentage
instances, the average yarn-to-fibre multipliers of possible yarn types suited to the manufacture composition of cotton in the product by the combined multiplier of the product stage.
of the fabric in question can be used in cotton consumption calculations. These are presented
in the last column of Table 5.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
4. C
 onversion Rates, Fibre
Loss Rates and Multipliers

EXAMPLE 2 End-Product-to-Fibre [1.14 x 1.06 x 1.18 = 1.43 ]


How much cotton fibre in kg is consumed in a Retailer and Brand order of denim
jeans? Fabric-to-Fibre [1.14 x 1.06 = 1.21 ] End-Product-to-Fabric [ 1.18 ]

A Retailer & Brand places an order of:


Yarn-to-Fibre [1.14] Fabric-to-Yarn [1.06] End-Product-to-Fabric [ 1.18 ]
1,000 units of pairs of jeans
Each pair of jeans weighs 0.5kg
The jeans have a fabric composition of 75% cotton, 25% polyester
The Net weight of the order is therefore 500kg (1,000 units X 0.5kg). COTTON YARN WOVEN/KNITTED END-PRODUCT
FIBRE FABRIC
The below equation is to be used to calculate the Total Cotton Fibre
Consumption of this order.
Cutting and
Trimming Waste
Percentage
Total End-Product Weaving/Knitting
Net Weight of cotton
Cotton Fibre = Waste
of Order x in fabric x -To-Fibre
Consumption multiplier Spinning
composition Waste

Figure 4 shows which multipliers are used in calculating the cotton fibre
consumption of a pair of denim jeans. Figure 4: BCI denim multipliers

Total
Cotton Fibre = 500kg x 75% x 1.43 = 536kg
Consumption

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
5. Better Cotton Claim Units
(BCCUs) Calculations

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
5. Better Cotton Claim Units
(BCCUs) Calculations

To report the volume of Better Cotton sourced


for customers, suppliers and manufacturers EXAMPLE 3
enter sales transactions into the Better
To continue with Example 2, the garment supplier would like to understand how many
Cotton Platform (BCP). The type of yarn used
BCCUs must be allotted to his order of 1,000 pairs of denim jeans for their retailer
in the product is one of the required fields
customer who buys all his orders as Better Cotton. He wants to know how many
to be completed. Using the built-in yarn-
BCCUs to expect from his fabric supplier.
to-fibre multipliers, the BCP automatically
calculates how many Better Cotton Claim His Retailer & Brand customer placed an order of:
Units (BCCUs) should be allocated to each
1,000 units of pairs of jeans
entry, as per the Better Cotton Chain of
Custody Guidelines. In these transactions, 1 Each pair of jeans weighs 0.5kg
BCCU is equivalent to 1 kg of Better Cotton
The jeans have a fabric composition of 75% cotton, 25% polyester
lint produced by a licensed BCI Farmer.
Therefore, BCI Members work in weight and The Net weight of the order is therefore 500kg (1,000 units X 0.5kg).
in kg.
To calculate how many BCCUs to expect from his fabric supplier, he must first calculate
the net weight of cotton in the fabric used to produce the jeans.
For this, the supplier must pick the End-product-to-fabric multiplier for denim from
Figure 4 ( 1.18 ).

Net weight of = 500kg x x = 442.5kg


75% 1.18
cotton in fabric

Once the supplier knows how much cotton is in the fabrics used for the jeans, he can
calculate the net weight of cotton fibres used to make the jeans by applying the Fabric-
to-Fibre multiplier for denim from Figure 4 ( 1.21 ).

Net weight of cotton fibres = 442.5 x = 535kg


1.21
used to produce the fabric

Therefore the garment supplier should expect 535 BCCUs from their supplier.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
5. Better Cotton Claim Units
(BCCUs) Calculations

5.1 On Discrepancies If RB Members use the average end-product-


EXAMPLE 4 to-fibre or the fabric-to-fibre multipliers,
The end-product-to-fibre and fabric-to-fibre which are obtained by multiplying average
multipliers seen in Table 5 are based on An RB Member calculates expected BCCUs for a product made with circular knit
intermediary multipliers, discrepancies with
average fibre loss rates. When averages fabrics.
the actual number of BCCUs received can be
are used, certain discrepancies are to be If we assume that a total of 100 kg of 100% cotton yarn of an unknown type was used expected. The magnitude of discrepancies
expected in calculations. To improve the to make the end-product or the fabric that was used to make this end-product, the between the expected number of BCCUs
accuracy of calculations and minimise these possible number of BCCUs obtained for this order could be as follows: and number of BCCUs received depends
discrepancies, the type of fabric and the type on the actual type of fabric and yarn used to
of yarn used in the production of an end- make the end-product, and which average
product would need to be known. However, RB Member Actual Supplier (1) Actual Supplier (2)
multiplier the RB Member used. When
retailers and brands do not typically have average multipliers are used, discrepancies
access to this information at the outset (and Uses the average should be expected.
Uses carded yarn in Uses combed yarn in
do not hold this type of data) when they are yarn-to-fibre
Situation production. The BCP production. The BCP
making these calculations. multiplier shown in
allocates the BCCUs. allocates the BCCUs.
Table 5 (1.22).
In the case where a Retailer and Brand
(RB) Member is using an average yarn-to-
fibre multiplier (i.e. the average of combed 100 (kg) X 1.35 X
100 (kg) X 1.22 X 100 (kg) X 1.16 X 100% = 135 BCCUs
and carded yarn-to-fibre multipliers), it is Calculation
100% = 122 BCCUs 100% = 116 BCCUs
inevitable that certain discrepancies are
observed between the expected number of
BCCUs that RB Members calculate and the
number of BCCUs received from the supplier Resulting 122 estimated 116 actual 135 actual
further up the supply chain who selects yarn discrepancy BCCUs BCCUs (-5%) BCCUs (+11%)
types when inputting the data for Better
Cotton orders.
Below is a simple example that demonstrates
how discrepancies can arise even when using
average multipliers. These result from RB
Members lacking access to the details of their
various fabrics down to yarn level, a challenge
that is currently difficult to overcome.

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
6. Next Steps

6.1 Refining Combined average mix of virgin cotton and comber noil
used for OE yarns from its online system
Multipliers when these factors are updated within the
Under section 4.2.4 Combining Multipliers, Better Cotton Platform, and by collecting
the multiplier for Yarn-to-Fibre has been data on this particular cotton fibre fraction
calculated based on some assumptions over time.
(Annex 1). For example, for the Apparel-
Wovens category, for the purposes of
calculating a Yarn-to-Fibre multiplier, it 6.2. Implementation
was assumed that this fabric is produced BCI will implement new end-product-to-fibre
from 50% Open-End (OE) yarn and 50% or fabric-to-fibre multipliers in a phased
Carded yarn. However, yarns are typically approach through an RB Member-wide
used in different proportions. To bring these recalculation by the end of 2020. In addition,
multipliers closer together, a further study to complement this approach, we will develop
can be conducted to obtain more precise appropriate tools and control processes to
assumptions for each type of yarn used in help ensure that the multipliers are applied as
each category of fabric multipliers. consistently as possible across the members
It is well known that open-end (OE) yarns concerned. The multipliers on the Better
are widely used in the industry for various Cotton Platform – BCI’s online platform for
applications. It is important to note that OE registering data - will also be updated with
yarn is produced from a mix of virgin cotton new multipliers.
and cotton waste (comber noil). The mix of All retailers and brands are invited to use
virgin cotton and comber noil is determined the information in this paper as they seek
by the supplier, based on the quality of yarn to estimate cotton usage for their cotton
they would like to produce. Comber noil is sourcing strategies.
accounted for in combed yarn consumption
today. The average mix of virgin cotton and
comber noil is currently not known to BCI. To
bring more accuracy to cotton consumption
calculations, BCI expects to establish the

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
Annex 1: Methodology

3.1 Data Collection 3.2 Data Analysis Statistical Analysis

To gather the data used in the analysis that All statistical measures of central tendency
informed the ranges, rates and other figures Assumptions (mean, median, mode) and descriptions of
mentioned in this document, several data dispersion (standard deviation, variance,
In establishing different Yarn-to-Fibre multipliers, certain assumptions were made about the range) were examined to determine the
collection methods were deployed.
proportional use of the different predominant yarn types for the respective fabric categories. best measure in determining the “expected
1. BCI member spinning mills were surveyed. These assumptions are laid out in the following table: fibre loss” rates. It was determined that the
They were asked to provide BCI with the expected fibre loss rate would be taken
minimum and maximum fibre loss rates from the mean value of the average of the
Yarn Usage Assumptions (%)
they observe when manufacturing carded, Fabric Category maximum and minimum values. Put simply,
combed and open-end yarns. Assumptions (%) we used the mean of the mean. This is a
Combed Carded Open-end
2. In addition to spinning mills, BCI also conservative measure and assumes that
surveyed key fabric mills and end product the data is distributed relatively normally,
Denim - 50% 50% without skew. The conversion rate value
manufacturers to gather data on fibre loss
in manufacturing different types of fabrics was always reported as an integer (e.g. 7%
and end-products. Woven - 50% 50% instead of 7.1%) using standard rounding
rules where 0.5% is rounded to the next
3. In addition to surveys, BCI has also highest integer value.
reached out to a wide range of producer Circular Knit 50% 50% -
organisations, merchants, and other Given the limited data (number of
organisations that are involved in this type Flat Knit 50% 50% - observations), a conservative measure
of work. rather than more advanced techniques (e.g.
regression analysis) was used. The primary
4. Textile Exchange was consulted Home Textiles - - 100%
limitations of the analysis were: 1) the size
extensively and some of the figures seen of the data set (number of observations)
in this document were directly adopted which was relatively small; and 2) the
For “Apparel-Yarn and Fabric Types Unknown” category, the assumption was a mix of
from its work. Figures mentioned in this data was self-reported. The analysis took
80% knits and 20% wovens and denim.
document are to be updated in the future, account of these limitations by focusing on
in collaboration with Textile Exchange. measures less sensitive to outliers (e.g.
median versus mean).

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Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
Acknowledgements

BCI would like to thank its Supplier and


Manufacturer Members for their participation
in this study by responding to our surveys.
Rieter, Paul Reinhart, Cargill Cotton,
Louis Dreyfus Company, The International
Cotton Association, Cotton Australia and
ABRAPA also informed some to the technical
aspects of this work. We worked with Textile
Exchange during the final stages of the work
to ensure consistency with similar work they
were carrying out. Our Advisory Committee
– six BCI Retailer and Brand Members
– contributed to the final version of this
document: adidas Group, Bestseller, C&A,
Gap Inc, H&M and Marks & Spencer.

BCI is grateful for all of these contributions.

23
Better Cotton Initiative | Measuring Cotton Consumption:
BCI Conversion Factors and Multipliers
Version 1.0 – October 2020
Please direct your questions
about this document to:
[email protected]

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