International Journal of Trend in Scientific Research and Development (IJTSRD)

Volume 5 Issue 5, July-August 2021 Available Online: www.ijtsrd.com e-ISSN: 2456 – 6470

An Overview of Cosmetic Science

Thanggoulal Kipgen1, Ms. Sarita Sharma2,
Dr. Gaurav Kumar Sharma3, Dr. Kaushal Kishore Chandrul4
1
Student, 2Assistant Professor, 3HOD, 4Principle,
1, 2, 3, 4
Department of Pharmacy, Mewar University, Chittorgarh, Rajasthan, India

ABSTRACT How to cite this paper: Thanggoulal

In recent years scientists are more frequently looking for Kipgen | Ms. Sarita Sharma | Dr. Gaurav
ingredients that influence the skin’s condition and slow down the Kumar Sharma | Dr. Kaushal Kishore
aging process. Peptides are involved in many natural processes Chandrul "An Overview of Cosmetic
with relevance to skincare and therefore have been used in Science" Published
in International
skincare and pharmaceutical industry.
Journal of Trend in
In this article we will overview the cosmetics, makeups usefulness, Scientific Research
etc. Makeup cosmetics are used to protect the skin and to provide and Development
safety and comfort, but their main purpose is as a beauty product (ijtsrd), ISSN: 2456-
6470, Volume-5 | IJTSRD45166
to make the face and skin attractive. There are base makeup
Issue-5, August
products and decorative makeup products; the former are used to
2021, pp.1603-1608, URL:
hide imperfections such as stains and wrinkles, to adjust skin tone, www.ijtsrd.com/papers/ijtsrd45166.pdf
and to add firmness or translucence to make the skin look
beautiful. Copyright © 2021 by author (s) and
International Journal of Trend in
Scientific Research and Development
Journal. This is an
Open Access article
distributed under the
terms of the Creative Commons
Attribution License (CC BY 4.0)
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0)
INTRODUCTION Chemistry
The definitions for cosmetics differ slightly around Since all cosmetics are made up of chemicals (yes
the world, but they are basically any substance or even so-called “natural” cosmetics are chemicals), the
mixture that is intended to be applied to the external most important aspect of cosmetic science is
parts of the human body or the teeth and mucous chemistry. This is the study of chemicals and how
membranes for the purposes of improving they interact with each other. As a cosmetic scientist,
appearance. you need to first get to know the cosmetic raw
Cosmetic science is the area of study focused on the materials available and what they do. You also need
development of products designed to improve the to learn how to put the raw materials together into a
look and feel of skin, hair, nails, and other surfaces of safe and effective formula.
the body. The subject of cosmetic science overlaps Physics
with a number of sciences including Chemistry, Depending on the type of products you are making,
Physics, and Biology but also includes softer topics there are a number of topics in the field of physics
like Marketing and Market Research. that are important. For color cosmetics, the principles
Cosmetic science is not a subject typically covered in of light reflection are important for determining color
a single subject. This research will introduce the basic mixtures and formulations. In cleansing products, it’s
techniques, laws, advantages, disadvantages, and important to know about the physics of colloidal
ingredients used by cosmetic formulators to create solutions and the mechanisms of foam creation and
functional products. The subjects we need to know dirt removal. For sunscreens, the physics of energy
are: - absorption and reflection. For all cosmetic products,
it’s helpful to know the science of rheology. Fluid
dynamics are also important to understand as this

@ IJTSRD | Unique Paper ID – IJTSRD45166 | Volume – 5 | Issue – 5 | Jul-Aug 2021 Page 1603
 International Journal of Trend in Scientific Research and Development @ www.ijtsrd.com eISSN: 2456-6470
relates to the mixing and filling of large batches of This range of category accounts for 30% of market
cosmetics. sales. The difference is while all the face care
products are on the skin, not all skincare products can
Biology
be used on the face. Some of the face care products
Since cosmetics are put on biological surfaces, it is
helpful to know the basics of hair, skin, and nail include face wash, face scrub, toner, sun creams, face
biology. Cosmetic chemists learn about hair growth, packs, facial kits, face gels, serums, etc.
the composition of hair fibbers, and the ways in Personal care ranges
which it is damaged and repaired by personal care Other personal care products are the new beauty
products. For skin science, cosmetic chemists need to product category. This category accounts for about 15
understand how the skin grows and the structure of percent of market sales (depending on which goods
the different layers. It is also helpful to know some of you include). These include products for oral care,
the biochemistry involved in creating skin as some such as toothpaste, mouthwash, and whitening
raw materials and cosmeceuticals are thought to products. They also include soaps, bathing gel, soaps,
interact with biochemical mechanisms to improve the massaging oils, etc.
look and feel of skin. Treatment care ranges
Math This type of treatment care product is designed to
Math is the foundation of almost any scientific cure specific skin or hair problems. For example,
subject. For this reason, it is important that students there is a specific type of cream that is targeted to
of cosmetic science have a good understanding of cure acne, or spots, etc. The same goes for hair fall or
basic math. This means being able to quickly figure dandruff issues too.
out percentages and convert units from mass to Note: Here the percentage sold means consumed
volume and vice versa. While math can get by the people
complicated the job mostly involves straightforward Cosmetic Regulation in India
calculations and avoids more complex math like In case we want to work in a cosmetic industry we
Calculus or Number Theory. need to know some basic regulations in India. The
Classification of cosmetics cosmetic products in India are regulated under the
The major five main types of cosmetic products are, Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945 and
Skincare range Labelling Declarations by the Bureau of Indian
Haircare range Standards (BIS). BIS sets the standards for cosmetics
Face care range for the products listed under Schedule ‘S’ of the
Personal care range Drugs and Cosmetics Rules 1945.
Treatment range Cosmetics Act, 1940
Skincare ranges Cosmetic is defined under section 3(aaa) of the Drugs
These are items designed to make skin look and feel and Cosmetics Act, 1940 as, any article intended to
better. The skincare market accounts for around 20% be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or
of all cosmetics sold, which is the largest share in any introduced into, or otherwise applied to, the human
category. Skincare products can be further classified body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying,
by how they function and what they do. These include promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance,
moisturizers, creams, powders, essential oils, toners, and includes any article intended for use as a
serums, etc. component of cosmetic.
Under the provisions of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act,
Haircare ranges
1940 and Rules made thereunder, the manufacture of
Haircare products are the second most popular form
cosmetics is regulated under a system of inspection
of cosmetic that accounts for about 25 percent of
and licensing by the State Licensing Authorities
sales. Like the skincare group, hair products can also
appointed by the respective State Governments, while
be categorized according to how they work and what
the import of cosmetics is regulated under a system of
they do. The hair products most frequently purchased
registration by the Central Licensing Authority
are the ones designed to remove things from the hair,
appointed by the Central Government. The Drugs
like shampoos. Some are meant to be left on like
Controller General (India) functions as the Central
leave-in conditioners, hair gels, essential oils, etc.
Licensing Authority who grants the Import
Face care ranges Registration Certificate and regulates the import of
This category includes herbal cosmetics that can cosmetics into India via Gazette notification G.S.R
only be used, particularly on the face. These range of 763(E) under the provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics
products kind of overlap with the skincare products. Act, 1940.

@ IJTSRD | Unique Paper ID – IJTSRD45166 | Volume – 5 | Issue – 5 | Jul-Aug 2021 Page 1604
 International Journal of Trend in Scientific Research and Development @ www.ijtsrd.com eISSN: 2456-6470
Any article falling within the definition of cosmetic is Biotique
required to be registered along with pack size, Biotique was launched by Vinita Jain in 1984. This
variant(s) and manufacturing premises before its brand also manages to stand out in the world of
import into the country. No cosmetic shall be chemical-based cosmetics as it doesn’t contain any
imported into India unless the product is registered artificial preservatives or synthetic fragrances. The
under the rules by the Central Licensing Authority ingredients used are extracted naturally from herbs.
appointed by the Central Government under rule 3(f)
L’Oreal
or by any person to whom such powers may be
delegated under rule 5. [As per rule 12(1) of the L’Oreal is one of the giants in the cosmetic segment
Cosmetic Rules, 2020]. No cosmetic shall be in the world. Jean-Paul Agon is the chairman and
imported or manufactured unless it complies with the CEO. The Company has been present in India for
specifications prescribed under the Ninth Schedule or about 20 years.
any other standards of quality and safety, applicable Shahnaz Husain
to it, and other provisions under the rules. In case, the
cosmetic is not included under the Ninth Schedule, it This brand was founded in the 1970s by Shahnaz
shall meet the requirements under these rules and Husain. In the year 2006, she was awarded the Padma
specifications and standards applicable to it in the Shri.
country of origin. [As per rule 39 of the Cosmetic Top 5 Largest Cosmetics Companies in the World
Rules, 2020]. L’Oréal
No cosmetic may purport or claim to purport or Unilever
convey any idea which is false or misleading to the Estée Lauder
intending user. [As per rule 36 of the Cosmetic Rules, Proctor and Gamble
2020]. Coty
Companies Raw materials
Top 5 Cosmetics Brands in India The raw materials that are used in most cosmetics
Lakme around the world are listed in the International
Lakme is a reputed Indian brand which is owned by Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary.
Unilever. The company is headed by Mr. Anil Chopra The latest edition of the INCI Dictionary has over
who is the CEO of the company. Lakme was founded 22,000 entries so it takes some time to learn about
in the year 1952 by JRD Tata. everything you could include in your cosmetic
formulas. In reality, those thousands of options can all
Lotus be simplified and we’ve described how there are
The company Lotus Herbals Ltd. was set up two really only three types of cosmetic ingredients. These
decades ago in the year 1993 by Kamal Passi. include functional, aesthetic, and claims.

@ IJTSRD | Unique Paper ID – IJTSRD45166 | Volume – 5 | Issue – 5 | Jul-Aug 2021 Page 1605
 International Journal of Trend in Scientific Research and Development @ www.ijtsrd.com eISSN: 2456-6470
Functional ingredients harmful if absorbed through the skin. Products
Functional cosmetic ingredients are ones that actually claimed to be organic should be certified.
have an effect on the body that the formulator wishes.
Mineral
You cannot make a useful cosmetic product without The term “mineral makeup” applies to a category of
including at least one functional ingredient. However, face makeup, including foundation, eye shadow,
you could make an entire cosmetic using just one blush, and bronzer, made with loose, dry mineral
functional ingredient. Vaseline has built a huge brand powders.
on a single functional ingredient cosmetic
(Petrolatum). Lebel
Labeling Requirements for Cosmetics in India
Functional ingredients include cleansers, conditioning Cosmetic products manufacturers have to abide by
agents, colorants, fragrances, reactive ingredients, the following label elements on all the packaged
film formers, and drug actives. Every cosmetic
items to market them in India:
you’ve ever used or made has at least one functional 1. The name of the Product
ingredient. 2. Name and address of the manufacturers and the
Aesthetic ingredients manufacturing unit
The most common and abundant type of cosmetic raw 3. List of ingredients of the content of the product
material is aesthetic modifiers. These are ingredients
Outer Label
that help to make the delivery of the functional
• Declaration of the net content of the cosmetic
ingredients more acceptable. They are the compounds
product
that help the ingredients spread, dilute the ingredients,
make them more stable, and improve the look and • List of ingredients
feel of the overall product. The sub-category of • Name and address of manufacturer and importer
aesthetic modifiers includes solvents, thickeners, as per legal documents
preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, plasticizers, Inner Label
fillers, appearance modifiers, anti-oxidants, anti- • Product warnings and precautions for usage
irritants, and delivery systems. When you look at the • Directions for safe usage
ingredient list of most cosmetics, most of the • Special mention for the hazardous elements
ingredients are aesthetic modifiers. • The list of ingredients
Claims ingredients • Number of the manufacturing batch
While people use cosmetics to improve the way their • For soap, the date and year of manufacturing must
skin and hair look and feel, this isn’t the primary be mentioned instead of the manufacturing batch
reason that they buy cosmetics. Consumers buy number
cosmetics because they like the story that the product
Misleading Claims of Cosmetic Labels in the
tells. They like the packaging or the way that the
Market
product looks and smells. And to help support the
Some of the misleading cosmetic claims that are
marketing story and the claims made about the prevailing in India.
product, formulators have to include claims
#Hypoallergenic
ingredients.
#Natural, Organic
Claims ingredients (sometimes called fairy dust) are #Non-comedogenic
ingredients added to formula at a low level for the #Reduce wrinkles
primary purpose of getting to put the ingredient name
Benefits of cosmetic
on the label. This includes ingredients like natural
The use of cosmetics to improve our appearance can
extracts, vitamins, proteins, biotechnology, and
affect our self-perception. When we feel good, our
fanciful made-up ingredient names. They are not put
self-esteem increases and our performance improves
in the formulas to have any measurable effect and
which favorably affects what others think of us, and
almost invariably they don’t.
how they behave towards us. In the same way,
Ingredients negative feelings about our appearance can trigger
A variety of organic compounds and inorganic self-doubt that leads to lower self-esteem, confidence,
compounds comprise typical cosmetics. and performance.
Natural Each group of cosmetics can impart specific
Handmade and certified organic products are physiological and psychological benefits to the user.
becoming more mainstream, due to the fact that SHADED PRODUCTS (pigmented foundations,
certain chemicals in some skincare products may be lipsticks, eye shadows, blushers, etc.), apart from

@ IJTSRD | Unique Paper ID – IJTSRD45166 | Volume – 5 | Issue – 5 | Jul-Aug 2021 Page 1606
 International Journal of Trend in Scientific Research and Development @ www.ijtsrd.com eISSN: 2456-6470
making the wearer look and feel more attractive, can even worse and you will look older than you actually
have a psychologically therapeutic effect. are. In some cases a foundation or powder may dry
MOISTURISERS can induce a smoother feel and out your skin and make it look flaky, dull and ashen.
Makeup can also cause acne.
appearance to the skin and reduce the flaking
associated with dryness. Certainly, the maintenance Conclusion
of normally hydrated skin is a very tangible The impulse to look our best is age-old. The use of
physiological benefit. cosmetics is not a need created by the cosmetic
industry but something that has arisen spontaneously
SUNSCREENS impart both physiological and
in many cultures. The reason for their popularity is
psychological benefits. They help protect the skin
the important physiological and psychological benefit
from wrinkling, premature aging effects in general,
and skin cancer by screening out harmful ultraviolet they impart to the user.
rays. They also allow the wearer to build up a The benefits of cosmetics and toiletries are many and
controlled tan if they so wish, which in our society Cosmetic Scientists are skilled at developing products
represents vitality, health, and attractiveness. There is to meet these needs.
a growing awareness that tanning, even with the When we first encounter other people, their physical
appropriate use of sunscreens, may still carry some characteristics represent a salient source of
risk of damage from ultraviolet rays.
information. People use this information to judge
HAIRCARE PRODUCTS have obvious what the individual is like. This first impression is
physiological benefits. Anti-dandruff preparations fit often important. Evidence has shown that people
into this category as do shampoos. Shampoos remove assign valuable social characteristics to those well-
the lipids from the hair which, when they accumulate, endowed with physical attractiveness, conforming to
make the scalp feel itchy and uncomfortable. the “what is beautiful is good” stereotype. This can be
Conditioners, perms, and hair colors improve the extended to “what is made beautiful is good” Studies
overall aesthetics of the hair and allow the individual have shown that people of average attractiveness who
to convey different messages. For example, certain use cosmetics can gain the advantages of positive
hairstyles and colors maximize credibility in the personality attributes
workplace. Though there are a large number of different
DENTAL CARE has both physiological and cosmetics used for a variety of different purposes, all
psychological benefits. Teeth cleaning removes dental cosmetics are typically intended to be applied
plaque and helps inhibit dental caries. The use of externally.
fluoride has dramatically reduced dental problems There are thousands of different cosmetic products on
ANTIPERSPIRANTS and DEODORANTS are the market, all with differing combinations of
both physiologically and psychologically useful. ingredients. In the United States alone there are
Feelings of social inferiority, guilt, or shame may be approximately 12,500 unique chemical ingredients
provoked by perspiration and body odor. approved for use in the manufacture of personal care
products.
Disadvantage of Cosmetics
1. skin diseases and reaction, References
2. allergies, [1] Chemist corner. Available at:-Cosmetic Science
3. harmful for eyes, - What is it? - Chemists Corner 8th August
4. damage to nails if using nail polish, 2020
5. cancer and other chronic diseases,
[2] India today. Availebal at: Using beauty
6. aging,
products may do you more harm than good -
7. danger to reproductive organs,
Lifestyle News (indiatoday.in) by Karishma
8. hair problems,
Kuenzangon July 3, 2017UPDATED: July 3,
9. headaches and
2017 17:17 IST
10. unwanted dependency on cosmetics.
[3] The Physics Hypertextbook©1998–2021 Glenn
It is indeed true that cosmetics bring harm not only to
Elert Author, Illustrator, Webmaster
our skin but also increase the risks to have cancer and
other diseases. Of course, it is impossible to talk [4] C&EN at:Hair Care Ingredient Makers Get
about the harmful effects of makeup without Creative (acs.org) Hair Care Ingredient Makers
mentioning ageing. Girls likes to use concealers to Get Creative Chemists meet demand for novel
cover the spots, but ultimately, this spots may look ingredients that repair, add shine, and protect

@ IJTSRD | Unique Paper ID – IJTSRD45166 | Volume – 5 | Issue – 5 | Jul-Aug 2021 Page 1607
 International Journal of Trend in Scientific Research and Development @ www.ijtsrd.com eISSN: 2456-6470
color by Marc S. Reisch May 13, 2013 | A [15] Maps of INDIA, available at: Top 10
version of this story appeared in Volume 91, Cosmetics Brands in India for personal care
Issue 19 (mapsofindia.com) 16th January 2019
[5] Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists at:- [16] Australian academy of science, available at:
The Benefits of Cosmetics/Toiletries - ASCC - The chemistry of cosmetics - Curious
Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists 7th (science.org.au) 19th September 2019
March 2013
[17] Technavio blog. Available at: Top 10
[6] ^ Williams, Yona .Ancient Indus Valley: Food, Cosmetics Companies in the World 2020 |
Clothing & Transportation. Unexplainable.net Cosmetics Industry - Technavio
[7] ^ abcd Schneider, Günther et al (2005). “Skin [18] 2016 Drugs and Cosmetics Act1940
Cosmetics” in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Rules1945.pdf. Available at:
Industrial Chemistry, Wiley-VCH, Weinheim. https://cdsco.gov.in/opencms/export/sites/CDS
doi:10.1002/14356007.a24_219 CO_WEB/Pdf-
[8] ^ abAngeloglou, Maggie. The History of Make- documents/acts_rules/2016DrugsandCosmetics
Act1940Rules1945.pdf.Accessed on 30th April,
up. First ed. Great Britain: The Macmillan
Company, 1970. 41–42. Print. 2020.
[19] COSMOALLY. Available at: Cosmetic Label
[9] ^“The Lowdown on Mineral Makeup”.
Elements: What to know before Importing to
WebMD. p. 2. Retrieved 29 October 2018.
India? (cosmoally.com) on 2nd May 2020
[10] ^ Singer, Natasha (2007-11-01). “Natural,
Organic Beauty”. The New York Times. [20] Wrinkle Treatments and Other Anti-aging
products. Available at:
[11] Regulations for cosmetics, Available at: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-
Regulations for cosmetics (cseindia.org) products/wrinkle-treatments-and-other-anti-
[12] Section 134 in The Drugs and Cosmetics Rules, aging-products.Accessed on 5 th May, 2020.
1945 (indiankanoon.org) [21] Medical news today. Available at: Toxic
[13] The Drugs and Cosmetics Rules, 1945 makeup: What to avoid, risks, and alternatives
(indiankanoon.org) (medicalnewstoday.com) Medically reviewed
by Jill Seladi-Schulman, Ph.D. — Written by
[14] Guidance document(CDSCO), available at: MaryAnn De Pietro, CRT on October 3, 2017
Guidancedoccos.pdf (cdsco.gov.in)

@ IJTSRD | Unique Paper ID – IJTSRD45166 | Volume – 5 | Issue – 5 | Jul-Aug 2021 Page 1608