Overkill Solar BMS Instruction Manual
Overkill Solar BMS Instruction Manual
Version: 0.2.5
Supported BMS Models:
● JBD-SP04S020 (120A 4s 12V)
● JBD-SP10S009 (100A 8s 24V)
● JBD-SP25S003 (100A 16s 48V)
Date: June 16, 2021
Table of Contents
Table of Contents 2
1. Introduction 5
1.1 What is a BMS 5
3. BMS Parameters 18
3.1 Protection Parameters 18
3.1.1 Cell over voltage 18
3.1.2 Cell under voltage 19
3.1.3 Battery over voltage 19
3.1.4 Battery under voltage 20
3.1.5 Charge over current 20
3.1.6 Discharge over current 21
3.1.7 Charge over temperature 21
3.1.8 Charge under temperature 22
3.1.9 Discharge over temperature 22
3.1.10 Discharge under temperature 22
3.1.10 Hardware Protection Parameters 22
3.1.10.1 Hardware Overcurrent Protection 22
3.1.10.2 Hardware Short circuit Protection 22
3.1.10.3 Hardware Overvoltage Protection 22
3.1.10.4 Hardware Undervoltage Protection 22
3.2 Capacity Parameters 23
3.2.1 Designed Capacity 23
3.2.2 Cycle Capacity 23
3.2.3 Full Charge Voltage 23
3.2.4 End of Discharge Voltage 24
3.2.5 Discharge Rate 24
3.2.6 80%, 60%, 40%, 20% Capacity Voltage Levels 24
3.3 Balance Parameters 24
3.3.1 Start Voltage 24
3.3.2 Delta to balance 24
3.3.3 Balancer Enabled 24
3.3.4 Balance only when Charging 24
3.4 Other Parameters / Features 25
3.4.1 Switch 25
3.4.2 Load Detect 25
3.4.3 LED Enabled 25
3.4.4 LED Capacity 25
3.4.5 BMS Name 25
3.4.6 Barcode 25
3.4.7 NTC Settings 25
3.4.8 Galvanometer resistance 26
4. Periodic Maintenance 27
4.1 Periodic Cable Check 27
4.2. Periodic Voltage Check 27
Appendix 34
Appendix A: Recommended Parameters 34
A.1 General Settings 34
A.2: 12V Pack, 4 Cell, Using One 12V BMS and 100Ah LiFEPO4 cells 37
Mechanical Drawing 37
Bill of Materials 37
Wiring Diagram 39
BMS Configuration Parameters 39
A.3: 12V Pack, 8 Cell, Using One 12V BMS 40
Mechanical Drawing 40
Bill of Materials 41
Wiring Diagram 41
BMS Configuration Parameters 41
A.4: 24V Pack, 8 Cell, Using One 24V BMS 43
Mechanical Drawing 43
Bill of Materials 43
Wiring Diagram 45
BMS Configuration Parameters 45
A.5: 48V Pack, 16 Cell, Using One 48V BMS 47
Mechanical Drawing 47
Bill of Materials 47
Wiring Diagram 49
BMS Configuration Parameters 49
Appendix B: Calibration 50
B.1 Voltage Calibration 50
B.2 Current Calibration 51
B.2.1 Idle Current Calibration 51
B.2.2 Charge Current Calibration 52
B.2.3 Discharge Current Calibration 54
Appendix C: About Cell Balancing 56
Appendix D: BMS Specifications 62
D.1. Pinouts 63
D.1.1 BMS Balance Connector (12V) 63
D.1.1.1 12V BMS Balance Connector: 63
D.1.1.2 24V BMS Balance Connector: 63
D.1.1.3 48V BMS Balance Connector 64
D.1.2 BMS Serial Interface Connector 66
D.1.3 BMS Switch Connector 67
D.1.4 BMS Temp Sensor Connector 67
D.1.4.1 12V BMS 67
D.1.4.2 24V BMS 68
D.1.4.3 48V BMS 68
Appendix E: BMS Application Usage 68
E.1. XiaoxiangBMS (iPhone) 68
E.2. Xiaoxiang (Android) 70
E.3. JBDTools (PC) 73
E.4 BMS Tools by Eric Poulsen 76
Appendix F: Wire and Lug Sizing 76
F.1 Wire Sizing Chart 76
F.2 Battery Bus Bar Sizing Chart 76
Appendix G: Glossary 77
1. Introduction
NOTE: If after reading this you disagree with anything we said, please cancel your order.
First, the good news. LiFePO4 batteries are one of the safest types available. They contain no hazardous or
noxious substances, and have superior thermal and chemical stability compared to other lithium battery
chemistries. That said…
The battery cells we sell will store A LOT of energy (that is the whole point) – more than enough to maim
and/or kill you, your friends and family, and burn down your house, RV, boat or whatever, if you do not know
what you are doing.
Here is a short list of ways to screw up. This list is not complete.
● Take off all metal jewelry (rings, watches, chains). When they bridge the battery terminals, your
jewelry will instantly weld to the battery, get red hot and burn off your fingers, wrists, et cetera.
Search “burn-induced compartment syndrome”. Not fun.
● If you wire the batteries in any one of many wrong ways, they could be destroyed and/or burn down
your home. Follow instructions.
● AC inverters can electrocute you just like regular house wiring.
● De-energize your AC systems when working on them or you could get electrocuted and die (If you
don’t know this already you have no business using anything we sell).
● Even the cells by themselves, depending on how you wire them, can produce enough voltage to kill
you. A 16 cell 48v battery can electrocute you in the right circumstances.
● Using cheap inverters or other low-quality equipment can damage the BMS in a way that will not be
apparent until the batteries explode. This actually happened in our lab.
● Programming your BMS incorrectly can lead to a variety of disasters.
● Pinching a balance wire will cause a short circuit that melts the wires, and might damage your cells or
BMS. Pay attention when tightening the terminals.
● Dropping tools between two terminals will short circuit the batteries and lead to a variety of disasters.
● Using our BMS with unsupported battery types could lead to fires. We guarantee our BMSs work with
new grade-A LiFePO4 cells unless otherwise specified. If you use mysterious cheap cells you found in
the dark alleys of the internet, the results are not our fault.
● If you run your batteries in the sun, or in a sauna, or over a wood-burning stove, they may overheat
and be ruined. Operate them within their specified temperature range.
● Do not undersize your wiring for the loads in your system, or omit properly-sized circuit-breakers. If
you do, the wires can melt and burn down your house-boat-shed-camper.
● Do not connect equipment in a way that bypasses the BMS.
● Do not let the batteries or BMS get wet.
● Pay attention to your metal tools when working near the battery terminals.
● Do not work on electrical systems while drunk, high, stoned, or otherwise intoxicated.
The bottom line is, the only thing we guarantee is that the products we sell will be high quality and free of
material defects. If they turn out not to be, we will replace them. We will not replace connected equipment,
your house-boat-shed-camper, or anything else that we did not directly provide to you.
NOTE: Unless specified, these products have not been evaluated by a Nationally Recognized Testing
Laboratory, e.g. UL. Is it up to you to determine whether they are fit for your particular project, and what
regulations apply to that use.
Whatever stupid thing you do with our products after you buy them is 100% on you. There is no way to make
them completely safe.
We support you learning new things through research and experimentation, but a certain baseline level of
technical competence and sound judgement is absolutely required.
If you are completely confident in your abilities, turn back now. Fear keeps you alive.
2.2 Planning
[1]
Overkill Solar 100Ah LiFePO4 cells are shipped top-balanced. If you purchased all cells at the same time,
from Overkill Solar, then there you can skip this section.
With that out of the way, it’s time to top-balance the battery cells.
Note that this process will take some time. It could take a few days, depending on how many cells you plan
on using, and where the state of charge was in each cell before they shipped. Typically cells are shipped at
lower than 50% charge, but don’t count on this. Assuming your charger or power supply is rated at 10 amps,
it will take five hours per cell. Do not leave the cells unattended during the balancing process. Plan your day
accordingly.
1. Obtain a lab CC/CV (constant-current, constant-voltage) regulated power supply capable of providing
at least 10 amps.
2. If you already assembled your battery pack, disconnect everything now (remove the BMS, the bus
bars, temp sensor, double-sided tape, everything). If you can’t or won’t disassemble the battery at this
point, skip ahead to Appendix C for alternate balancing methods.
3. Use a voltmeter to determine the polarity (+/-) of each cell. Do not assume that they were labeled
correctly from the factory. We have seen “factory reject” batteries listed on Aliexpress and eBay with
the terminals labeled backwards! Always confirm them with a voltmeter and use a labelmaker or a
magic marker if they’re incorrect, ambiguous, or hard-to-read.
4. Wire all cells in parallel, using the bus bars (all positives wired together, and all negatives wired
together). If you do not have enough bus bars, you may use 10-12 AWG cable with crimped ring
terminals. Be extremely careful to ensure that all cells are connected together with the proper
polarity.
5. Configure the power supply for 3.65V, and set the current to around 1/10 C rate (e.g: For a 100A
battery, set the current to 10 amps). Lower currents will work, but will take longer. Higher currents
may work, but could affect accuracy, as the discharge curves vary depending on the current draw.
6. If the power supply does not have a voltage readout, then connect a digital multimeter to the positive
and negative bus bars. This will need to be monitored throughout the test.
7. If the power supply does not have a current readout (in amps), then connect a digital current meter in
series with the circuit, or use a clamp-style meter clamped onto the lead between the supply and the
battery (clamp to either positive or negative lead is fine, but not both).
8. Shut the power supply off.
9. Connect the battery positive lead to the power supply positive terminal.
10. Connect the battery negative lead to the power supply negative terminal.
11. Now, turn on the power supply.
12. Wait until the current readout goes to zero. This may take many hours. If the voltage ever exceeds
3.65, stop immediately.
13. At this point, your cells have been top-balanced. Disconnect the power supply leads, and disconnect
the bus bars.
WARNING: If the lab power supply polarity is reversed by accident, a tug-of-war between the batteries and
the power supply will ensue. The batteries will win, and the power supply will likely be permanently
damaged. Use caution.
Figure 2.3.1: Top-balancing cells in parallel (power supply connection not shown)
2.4 Assembly
NOTE: In this section, the three most popular configurations, the 12V 4-cell, 24V 8-cell, and 48V 16-cell are
shown. Other configurations are covered in Appendix A.
Use a voltmeter to determine the polarity (+/-) of each cell. Do not assume that they were labeled correctly
from the factory. We have seen “factory reject” batteries listed on Aliexpress and eBay with the terminals
labeled backwards! Always confirm them with a voltmeter and use a labelmaker or a magic marker if they’re
incorrect, ambiguous, or hard-to-read.
Warning: These very popular 280/272ah cells have black positive terminals and white negative terminals. Do
not assume anything based on your terminal color!
Use a felt-tip pen (or a label maker) to label each cell, and each terminal on the battery. This will reduce the
risk of making mistakes when connecting and reconnecting things. Also, some batteries do not label the +
and - terminals very well. Consider using a red marker or red fingernail polish to mark the red terminal (being
careful not to get any on the threads or lug contact area).
At this time, mount the cells together. There are many ways to do this. The simplest option is to wrap tape
around the cells (gaffer tape is a great choice). Double-sided foam tape between cells is also a good choice.
If using the optional steel frame, mount the cells in it now. If using a fully-enclosed box, it is recommended to
get the components wired together and working first, and mount it inside the enclosure last.
Add the bus bars, but don’t add the nuts or fasteners yet (balance leads go on before the nuts).
WARNING: This step is critical! Placing a bus bar in the wrong position will cause a short circuit between 2
cells.
The first step is to crimp ring terminals. Prepare the wire ends by cutting the tinned ends off (terminals must
be crimped to bare, stranded wire). Strip the ends back. Crimp the wire into the terminal using a ratcheting
insulated terminal crimper. Then, do a pull-test on the wire. Pull hard, and if the terminal comes off, repeat
the process with a new terminal until it’s secure.
Start with the black balance wire on BC0. Connect it to the negative-most terminal. Next, find the white wire
next to the black wire. This is BC1. The next wire is BC2, and so on. Install each per the diagram.
Figure 2.4.2.1: Balance lead connector and pinout, for 12V BMS
Figure 2.4.2.2: Balance lead connector and pinout, for 24V BMS
Figure 2.4.2.3: Balance lead connector and pinout, for 48V BMS
Spin the nuts on as you go. Suggest torque is 20 ft-lbs (27 Nm), or “Nice and snug.”
Warning: Do not pinch the balance wires under a nut! Instant smoke!
The temperature sensor serves one purpose, and that’s to prolong the life of your battery cells when the
temperature is too high or too low. Recall that lithium batteries do not work well at temperature extremes.
This BMS is capable of protecting the battery cells in four different scenarios (each have their own trigger and
release temperatures, and delay times):
The thing to stress here is that the BMS must react to the cell temperature, not the temperature of the
ambient air. So the temperature sensor must be taped to the cells.
At this point, plug in the temperature sensor, if it was previously disconnected. Tape the sensor to the
battery, using the precautions listed above.
Figure 2.4.6.1, diagram of a switch wired to the pigtail lead (obtain switch locally)
Any switch will do here, as long as it’s not momentary. Toggle switches or rocker switches are recommended.
When soldering your switch to the lead, use heat-shrink tubing over the connections.
If you do not wish to use the external switch, you may either leave the included jumper in place, or configure
the BMS to not use the switch (see Section 3.4.1 for instructions).
2.4.7 Connectivity
For systems with multiple BMSs and battery packs, it may be desirable to use an external battery monitor to
visualize the complete system as a single unit.
Note that other Bluetooth modules are not compatible. For best reception, mount the module high, ideally
away from metal. Do not mount it inside of a metal enclosure. The Bluetooth module may be left connected
to the BMS for long periods of time. It will go into a deep sleep mode when not in use.
Once the driver has installed successfully, the USB interface can be connected to the BMS. Plug the 4-pin
connector into the BMS. The BMS must be connected to the battery, with the balance lead connected in order
for the USB module to operate.
Note that the USB interface does not consume any power from the BMS. It is powered from the USB port.
Therefore, leaving the USB interface plugged into the BMS for long periods of time will not drain the battery.
3. BMS Parameters
Note: Hardware parameters are only accessible from the Android and PC app. They are not available from
the iPhone app.
Cuts off charging or discharging current if the current exceeds the trigger value for [delay] seconds.
Cuts off charging or discharging current if the current exceeds the trigger value for [delay] seconds.
Reconnects after [release delay] seconds.
Disconnects charging current if any cell voltage goes over the Trigger value for [delay] seconds.
Ideally, the capacity of the battery pack should be measured, and the actual number should be programmed
into the BMS. Therefore:
There are several ways to measure the pack’s total capacity. The easiest way is to set the cycle capacity to
hook a known DC load up to the battery, and measure the amount of time it takes from full charge down to
cutoff. Ensure that the protection parameters are set before starting. Charge up to 100% (see the section on
top-balancing). Note the start time. Record the pack voltage in 15 minute intervals (this info may be used to
set the percent capacity voltages, later in this section). Record the time when the BMS protection circuitry
cuts off the discharge current.
Cycle capacity = Test load current (A) Total run time (h)
NOTE: This parameter only affects the state of charge. If it is set too low, the state of charge will hit zero
percent before the battery is actually at zero percent. The state of charge percentage will never go negative.
NOTE: Charging while balancing is usually more effective, because the cell delta is greatest at the top of the
charge. We recommend keeping this setting enabled.
3.4 Other Parameters / Features
3.4.1 Switch
When enabled, the discharge FET will be disabled when the optional external switch contact is open. This
external switch, if used, must be wired to the 2-pin JST-XH connector on the BMS (see Appendix D1.3).
When disabled, the external switch will not be monitored or read.
On BMS modules that have an LED, this would blink the capacity out (e.g., 5 blinks would mean 100%
capacity).
3.4.6 Barcode
Not applicable. This does not affect the operation of the BMS. We recommend to keep it at its default value.
12V BMS:
24V BMS:
NTC1 and NTC2 are external temperature sensors that are to be taped to the battery cells.
Note that the 24V BMS does not have an internal temperature sensor.
48V BMS:
*Some of the 48v 16s BMSs were built with only 2 temperature probes. In this case NTC1, NTC4,and NTC5
should be enabled.
Note: This setting is only accessible from the Android and PC app; not the iPhone app.
4. Periodic Maintenance
Use the iPhone / Android app and the bluetooth module to ensure that the cell voltages are not different by
more than 50 millivolts when fully charged. If the cells are off by more than this amount, first verify with an
external voltmeter. If the voltmeter doesn’t agree, then the BMS may need calibration (follow the steps in
Section 4). Otherwise, a top-balance might be necessary to bring them closer together. See Section 2.3 for
the top-balancing procedure.
5. Troubleshooting & FAQ
Q: Why is this so complicated?
A: Because it is. This equipment was not designed to be a consumer item or DIY project, but here we are.
Lithium batteries demand this level of control.
Q: Can I use a 120A BMS on my 280AH cells? Does the BMS rating need to match my cell capacity?
A: It is common to confuse current (amps) with capacity (amp-hours). Our BMS can be used with nearly any
size LiFePO4 cells. A battery built with a 4s 120A BMS and 4 280AH cells will have a capacity of 280
amp-hours, and allow a continuous discharge current of 120 amps.
Q: I have a charge under-temperature warning. The sensor says -30 degrees Celsius?
A: Make sure that your temperature sensor is plugged in. An open-circuit temperature probe always reads as
-30c. If your probe is damaged you can set the under-temperature protection parameter to -40. This will
allow the BMS to operate until a new probe can be obtained.
Q: I don’t understand the wiring diagram. Why is the negative terminal the way it is?
A: This is a common question. The BMS is a glorified high-current automatic switch. It needs to be in series
with the battery somewhere in order to interrupt the current when it senses an issue with voltage, current, or
temperature. Your load (and charger(s) must therefore be placed after the BMS in the circuit.
So, assuming your battery setup is 100 amp hours, the BMS would run for 17 years. This proves that the
BMS can be connected for long periods of time without any fear of it draining the battery.
NOTE: The cell’s self-discharge rate will always cause the battery to drain over time, which may be several
percent per month. This is simple chemistry and physics; there’s nothing that you or the BMS can do to avoid
the battery cells from self-discharging over time, other than to occasionally top up the batteries.
Q: What does the optional switch do? (The SW connector and 2-wire pigtail)
A: This connection allows a remote switch to disable discharging of the battery pack. Charging is unaffected.
Useful as a remote battery shut-off switch. Connect only to an isolated switch contact. This feature can also
be disabled in software.
Q: Can I use any Bluetooth module? Or must I use the model linked above?
A: We have tried several off-the-shelf Bluetooth modules, and none of them have worked. We can only
recommend and support the official Bluetooth module linked above.
This is labelled confusingly in the iOS app. Our recommendation is to leave it to the default value of “Bal.
only when charging” = enabled.
Q: I want to buy an AC inverter and connect it to my battery pack. What size inverter should I buy?
A: There are two ways to approach battery to inverter matching. One is to start with a battery pack in mind,
and pick an inverter to match the battery. Another method is to pick the inverter first, and buy enough
batteries to match the inverter. We recommend doing the latter, because usually you’re buying the inverter to
run things that you know that you will use. For example, if your wife’s coffee maker is 1500 watts, and she
demands her coffee every morning, then there’s no point in building a system that would only produce 1000
watts. So start by determining what the largest appliances are. This information will always be printed on
the label of the device. If you plan to run multiple devices at the same time, then add these wattages
together. For purely resistive loads, like heating coils, you can usually just buy an inverter that’s rated close to
that wattage. For inductive loads, like motors and microwaves, that have high initial peak loads, you will
want to buy an inverter much larger than the rated wattage, because inverters have a tough time running
these devices.
The next thing to do is to figure out the desired run-time. We’re moving from watts, to watt-hours. Imagine a
hypothetical scenario where you only want to use your inverter to make one cup of coffee per day. The coffee
maker is rated for 1500 watts. It takes approximately three minutes to make a pot of coffee on this particular
coffee maker. To calculate the watt-hours required for our battery pack, we convert minutes to hours (3 ÷ 60
= 0.05), and then multiply watts ✕ hours. In this case, our battery must be at least 75 watt hours to make
one cup of coffee per charge. A 4-cell 12V 100Ah battery pack has a capacity of 1200 watt hours, which
means we could make sixteen cups of coffee on a single charge.
In summary, purchase an AC inverter based on the wattage of the devices that you connect to it. It’s always
smart to go one or more sizes up from what you think you need. For the example above, a 1600W inverter
might power a 1500W coffee machine, but might go into failure mode if anything else is plugged in at the
same time. Buying a 2000W or 2500W inverter might be a safer bet.
Q: In your drawings some of the balance wires are connected to the positive side of the bus bar, and in other
places, it’s connected to the negative (adjacent battery) side of the bus bar. Shouldn’t they all be consistent?
A: This is because our 100Ah batteries have plastic guards around the terminals to minimize the potential of
an accidental short-circuit. And if you look closely, they have these little plastic dividers that limit which way
a ring terminal can be installed. This limits which terminals you can install a ring terminal on. So there are
two solutions: 1) Remove and flip the plastic guards 180 degrees so that the ring terminals are all consistent,
or 2) leave the guards as they were, and just install the ring terminals wherever they fit. This is safe to do,
because anything connected to the bus bar will be at the same potential. It’s thick enough that the voltage
drop across it is negligible.
Q: My battery pack depleted to the point of under-voltage cutoff. And now I can’t charge from solar, because
my MPPT controller is powered from the battery pack, which is in undervoltage protection cutoff. How do I
recover from this?
A: There are three methods to recover from this catch-22 scenario:
But first, turn off all loads (inverters, lights, etc) because we need to revive the battery to the point where the
under-voltage cutoff protection releases. This can be several volts above the point where the cutoff occurred
(refer to Section 3.1.2 and Section 3.1.4 for a description of the two applicable protection modes, and refer to
Appendix A for recommended values.
The first method is to simply charge the battery pack using an AC-DC charger on shore power. The AC-DC
charger will have no problem charging the battery, whereas the solar MPPT will only charge if the battery
isn’t in discharge protection mode. If you don’t have access to shore power, then use either the second or the
third method below.
The second method is to “jump-start” the battery pack with another battery, which can be a lead-acid car or
deep-cycle battery (if you’ve got a large-capacity lithium battery laying around, that would work too, but lead
acid batteries are more common). Just ensure that the voltage of the jump-start battery has the same
nominal voltage as the battery pack in need of the charge.
The third method is a bit more clever, and doesn’t require lugging a battery around. You can do it from your
smartphone, if you have the optional Bluetooth module. Pull up the BMS configuration app (XiaoxiangBMS
on iPhone). Go into the protection parameter settings page. Write down the undervoltage protection
numbers or take a screenshot of them. Temporarily lower the cell undervoltage release value. For example,
for LiFePO4, lower it from 3000 to 2800). This will allow the discharge FET to activate (remember we
disabled all loads, so the only thing that should be allowed to discharge is the MPPT controller). This should
give the MPPT charge controller power, which will start charging your battery pack, assuming that the panels
are in full sunlight. Wait until the batteries have recovered a bit of charge, and then go back into the BMS
configuration app, and return the undervoltage parameters to their original value.
Q: Can I use a lead-acid charger to charge a LiFePO4 battery pack? Or do I need one that supports LiFePO4?
A: Well that’s a deep subject.
Charging too high could damage connected equipment. Because this is a common port BMS, everything in the
system is connected together. When the BMS disconnects for overvoltage, the charger is still active and
connected to the rest of the system, possibly resulting in a damaging unregulated voltage spike.
We suggest only using regulated chargers and/or power supplies. Set the upper voltage limit to 14-14.4v
If the charger only offers battery profiles, choose the setting for AGM batteries.
A lab CC/CV (constant-current, constant-voltage) power supply also makes a good charger. Set CV to
14-14.4v
If there are absolutely no other options but a dumb charger, connect a healthy lead acid battery in parallel
with the system. If the lithium pack disconnects, the lead acid battery will continue to regulate the system.
Even if you think you can’t over-charge because your smart charger stops at 13.8, unbalanced cells can and
will over-charge a single-cell, long before the overall pack voltage tops out at 13.8.
Q: I fully charged my cells to 3.6 each and overnight they discharged down to 3.4v. How am I losing so much
power??
A. This doesn’t necessarily indicate a discharge. LiFePO4 chemistry just takes some time to equalize. If the
cell delta is more than a few millivolts, then you may have a problem with one or more of the cells. Keep in
mind that the steep top end of the charge curve represents a very small percentage of the cell’s capacity, so a
discharge down to 3.4v can happen with a very small load overnight.
Q: Someone told me that bottom-balancing is better than top-balancing.
A: Always top-balance. Will Prowse explains why in this informative video. Also, see Appendix C, About
Cell Balancing.
6. Technical Support, Return, and Refund Policy
Email Support for technical support.
-note that at the time of updating this manual, we are being overwhelmed by high order volume, and it has
been impossible to respond to all the emails in a timely manner. We sincerely apologize for the poor
response.
Enjoy,
Steve.
Appendix
Specific settings for common battery configurations are given in the following subsections:
Max
Sub- Total Pack # of Cell Battery Pack Battery Pack Inverter
section Voltage Cells Capacity Capacity Current Rating BMS Size
100 Ah
A.2 12 volt 4 100 Ah 120 A 1x 12V 1500W
(1200 Wh)
200 Ah
A.3 12 volt 8 100 Ah 120 A 1x 12V 1500W
(2400 Wh)
100 Ah
A.4 24 volt 8 100 Ah 100 A 1x 24V 2500W
(2400 Wh)
100 Ah
A.5 48 volt 16 100 Ah 100 A 1x 48V 5000W
(4800 Wh)
If we missed any common configurations, email [email protected] and we’ll consider adding them to
this document!
Capacity configuration:
Parameter Value Units
This should be the rated capacity of your
battery in milliamps (multiply the
amp-hours of your pack by 1000)
Examples:
Designed capacity mAh
50 Ah pack: 50000
60 Ah pack: 60000
100Ah pack: 100000
200 Ah pack: 200000
280 Ah pack: 280000
Protection Parameters:
Delay
Parameter Trigger Value Release Value (seconds)
Cell over voltage 3650 mV 3500 mV 2
Balance Configuration
● Balancer start voltage: 3400 mV (Note: in the Android app, this is called “Balanced turn-on voltage,
and the units are volts, not mV”)
● Balancer delta-to-balance: 15 mV (Note: in the Android app, this is called “Balancing precision, and
the units are volts not mV”)
● Balancer enabled: True
● Balance only when charging: True
Other Parameters / Features:
These settings are consistent across all battery types. For capacity and protection settings, see the individual
sections below for your specific battery type.
● Number of cells: Leave this at the factory default setting that ships with the BMS.
○ 12V BMS: 4 cells
○ 24V BMS: 8 cells
● External switch: Set this to True if you have an external switch wired to the 2-pin connector, as
detailed in section 2.2.6.
● Load Detect: Enabled
● LED Enabled: N/A
● LED cap.: N/A
● NTC Settings:
○ 12V BMS: The first two NTC’s should be enabled. The others are not present, so should be
disabled.
○ 24V BMS: The first two NTC’s should be enabled. The others are not present, so should be
disabled.
○ 48V BMS: NTC’s 1, 2, 4, and 5 should be enabled. The others are not present, so should be
disabled. * If the BMS only has 2 probes, NTC 1,4, and 5 should be enabled.
● BMS Name / PIN Protect: N/A; leave this setting to its default value
A.2: 12V Pack, 4 Cell, Using One 12V BMS and 100Ah LiFEPO4 cells
Mechanical Drawing
Bill of Materials
4 AWG minimum.
12 2 Ring terminals, positive lead 2 AWG recommended.
3/8" inside diameter.
Figure A.2.2: Wiring Diagram for 12V pack, 4-cell using one 12V BMS
Protection parameters:
Delay
Parameter Trigger Value Release Value (seconds)
Battery over voltage 14600 mV 14000 mV 2
Mechanical Drawing
4 AWG minimum.
12 2 Ring terminals, positive lead 2 AWG recommended.
3/8" inside diameter.
Wiring Diagram
Figure A.3.2: Wiring Diagram for 12V pack, 8-cell using one 12V BMS
Protection parameters:
Delay
Parameter Trigger Value Release Value (seconds)
Battery over voltage 14600 mV 14000 mV 2
Mechanical Drawing
Bill of Materials
4 AWG minimum.
12 2 Ring terminals, positive lead 2 AWG recommended.
3/8" inside diameter.
Figure A.4.2: Wiring Diagram for 24V pack, 8-cell using one 24V BMS
Protection parameters:
Delay
Parameter Trigger Value Release Value (seconds)
Battery over voltage 29000 mV 28000 mV 2
Mechanical Drawing
4 AWG minimum.
12 2 Ring terminals, positive lead 2 AWG recommended.
3/8" inside diameter.
Wiring Diagram
Figure A.5.2: Wiring Diagram for 48V pack, 16-cell using one 48V BMS
Protection parameters:
Delay
Parameter Trigger Value Release Value (seconds)
Battery over voltage 58400 mV 56000 mV 2
Appendix B: Calibration
Your BMS should come calibrated. In certain use-cases, the voltages and currents might be off. In most
cases, calibration can fix this. We do not recommend doing this unless your readings are way off. It’s
possible to damage your BMS or your battery bank if this process is not followed to the letter.
Note: At the time of writing, calibration can only be done via the iPhone app, or the JBDTools USB Windows
application. These instructions cover the iPhone app.
Open the app. Click on Config. Then Voltage Cal. A warning message will appear. Heed its advice and only
continue if you know what you’re doing.
A list of each cell’s voltage will appear. Starting with Cell #1 (most negative), measure the cell voltage with
the multimeter. Convert the voltage measurement into millivolts (multiply by 1000). Type this number into
the app for Cell #1 (see image below). Click the Write button. Repeat for the remaining cells.
B.2 Current Calibration
You will need an accurate current meter to perform current calibration, and it must be able to measure the
maximum current that the BMS is capable of withstanding. Most handheld meters will only measure up to 10
amps; these are not sufficient. We recommend a clamp meter capable of measuring DC current at greater
than 100 amps, at an accuracy better than +/- 2.0%. If purchasing a new clamp meter, always make 100%
sure that it will measure DC current. Cheaper models only measure AC current.
Note: At the time of writing, calibration can only be done via the iPhone app, or the JBDTools USB Windows
application. These instructions cover the iPhone app.
Open the app. Click on Config. Then Current Cal. A warning message will appear. Heed its advice and only
continue if you know what you’re doing.
Connect your MPPT controller or shore charger. If you are using MPPT / solar, ensure that it is a sunny day
with all panels exposed to full sunlight. If you have multiple chargers, choose whichever is capable of
charging the system the fastest. You may also use several chargers simultaneously; just do not exceed the
maximum charge current of the BMS or the batteries. At this point, turn on the charger(s), and verify that they
are running in the correct mode (e.g. bulk mode). Refer to your charger’s user manual if necessary.
Clamp the current meter around the positive battery cable. Turn the meter on and to the highest DC current
measurement range. if your meter has multiple current ranges, always start on the highest range, and only
move down to the lower range(s) if the measured current is lower than the next lower range. For example, if
your meter has two ranges, 400A and 40A, then start on 400A, and only move down to 40 if the current
measures less than 40. This will ensure that you do not damage your meter.
Note the value on the current meter. Convert this to milliamps (multiply the measured amperage by 1000).
Enter this into the app’s text box (see image below). Click the Charge Current Calibration button. This step
will fail if the BMS is discharging or not charging. If successful, the app should display a message that the
calibration command was sent to the BMS.
B.2.3 Discharge Current Calibration
Connect a large non-inductive load to the battery. An AC inverter and a heater or heat gun works great for
this. For the 12V 4-cell BMS, a 1500 watt heat gun is perfect. Make sure that all chargers and MPPT
controllers are unplugged or disabled. Get the load connected, but don’t turn it on yet.
Next, get the phone app ready. Navigate to the same screen (Current Cal.), and put the cursor into the
discharge current text box (see image below).
Turn on the clamp meter. Select DC current at the appropriate range (For the meter shown below, which has
ranges for 40A or 400A, the 400A range was selected). Turn on the load for a few seconds, and ensure that
the current is displayed on the meter, and on the iPhone app. Make sure that the current is in the right range
(100-120 amps is ideal). Ensure that the BMS doesn’t go into discharge current protection, and ensure that
the inverter doesn’t go into protection either (most will beep incessantly if the load was too high). Turn the
load off. If all of this looks OK, proceed below.
Now, on to the actual discharge current calibration. Make absolutely sure these steps are followed exactly.
If you happen to turn the load off before clicking the button, then it will be difficult to fix. Contact support if
this happens.
Appendix C: About Cell Balancing
In Section Section 2.3, we asserted that each battery cell must be top-balanced separately, before
assembling the battery pack.
The balancer works by connecting a tiny bleed resistor (see Figure C.1 below) to the cells with the highest
voltage, and the excess energy in those cells turns into waste heat. This is a slow process. The intention is
that the BMS can maintain the balance on the cells as they slowly drift over their lifetime.
A batch of new cells needs to be top-balanced before they can be expected to charge properly as a battery
pack.
Q: Why?
A: Because of the nature of the LiFePO4 voltage curve. At the top end of a charge cycle, the cell voltage
spikes quickly, and charging must be stopped to prevent damage to the cells. If one cell is at a higher state of
charge, (in terms of amp-hours or coulombs), even by a small amount, it will spike while the other cells are
still in the "bulk" phase of their charge cycle (See Figure C.1 below). On the linked graph, the red line is the
highest cell,which triggers a "cell overvoltage" alarm before the pink/green cells get to a full charge. The BMS
must then disconnect to protect the high cell, and the battery pack will be at a lower voltage than expected.
You want all the cells to spike up at the same time, and the only way this can happen is for them to be well
balanced.
Figure C.1: LiFePO4 Cell Spikes During Charging
The best way in my opinion, is to use a regulated power supply to charge the cells to 3.65 volts each.
● Set the power supply to a voltage limit of 3.650. Resist the urge to bump it up to save time.
● Connect the cells in parallel as a single cell and charge together (without the BMS).Re-assemble into
the series-connected pack with the BMS.
● Will Prowse demonstrates in this video: https://youtu.be/x5ABvbbics8
If the pack is already assembled in series, and you are unable or unwilling to start over, you can still balance
it with the regulated power supply.
● Connect a charger to the battery with the BMS installed normally. (charger positive to BC[max] and
negative to C-).
● Charge the battery until the BMS reaches a cell overvoltage cutoff.
● Open your Bluetooth app or desktop app and navigate to the individual cell voltages.
● Find the lowest cell and connect your 3.650v regulated to that cell only, in the correct polarity.
● Allow the cell to charge up to 3.650v.
● Repeat this process until every cell is fully charged to 3.650v.
● Now cycle the battery with a load then a charger to verify that the cells are sufficiently balanced.
● If the BMS still reaches a cell overvoltage before the battery is fully charged, repeat this process.
Cheapest way: Connect a load to the high cell in your pack to quickly bleed off the excess energy. I tried this
method using a random car light bulb with some alligator clips on the leads. (see Figure C.3 below) You need
to watch the cell voltages closely because it’s easy to go too far.
Figure C.3: Using a car light bulb to bleed off excess cell voltage
What does NOT work is the old recommendation of connecting your new cells in parallel and letting them
passively equalize for hours or days. This does not work because of the flat charge curve. They are at almost
the same voltage even if they are far apart in state-of-charge. Basically the cells don't know that they aren't
balanced unless you can push them into the very top end of the charge cycle.
I bought 4 of the very cheapest low grade garbage cells from Aliexpress (See Figure C.4 below), just for
experimenting. I balanced them several times, but after even 1 cycle of charging and discharging, they are
way out of balance. This is because they are not matched at all. Some cells have a high internal resistance, so
they get hotter than the better cells, and this puts them at a lower state of charge. If you are trying to use
crappy cells like this, you will only be able to charge them up to ~80% to avoid constant cell over-voltages.
This might be good for a big cheap solar storage bank, but it can cause big problems for a pack that you cycle
daily, or use with large loads.
Figure C.4: Experimenting With Cheap Cells
● Cell 1: 3.3298V
● Cell 2: 3.2999V
● Cell 3: 3.3281V
● Cell 4: 3.3269V
From this info, we can work out that the cell delta is 29.9 millivolts. No need to top-balance these cells,
right? They’re almost identical, right? The customer figured as much, because he didn’t top-balance them.
He was in a hurry. Here was the output from the BMS iPhone app during the initial bring-up of the pack, after
less than 1/2 hour of charging::
Figure C.6: The effects of a badly-balanced cell
Steve’s advice to the customer, thinking that these might be crappy cells, was to top-balance the batteries.
The customer did so, and reported that three of the cells took approximately 7.5Ah, but cell #2 charged for
over a day, and when it was finished took a total of around 140 Ah. With that, we can work out a timeline of
what happened:
1. The supplier from China shipped three of the batteries at 90% charge, and one battery at 50% charge.
This should never happen. But it happened.
2. The supplier’s reassuring video of the cell voltages didn’t mean anything. Recall that LiFePO4 battery
discharge curves are extremely flat. This means that the capacity can vary wildly, but the voltage
won’t change much. We can actually see in the measurements from the vendor that the delta was 30
millivolts. Consulting the discharge curve for the battery above, a 30 millivolt delta (which we saw in
cell #2) can mean as much as a 40% state of charge difference.
3. During the battery pack bring-up, the cell overvoltage protection kicked in on cell #1, and cut off the
charging current. This happened because the cells were not balanced.
4. Steve recommended a top-balance, which was done, taking over a day at a charge rate of 10 amps.
After the pack was reassembled, the cell delta was around two millivolts (much better). The battery
successfully discharged down to its cutoff limit, and charged back up to 100% with no issue.
This, dear reader, is why you top balance. Don’t trust voltages when working with LiFePO4 batteries. When
it comes to vendors, the rule is: Trust, but verify. Verify by top-balancing.
Figure C.7: LiFePO4 battery discharge curves are extremely flat
Appendix D: BMS Specifications
JBD-SP04S020 JBD-SP10S009 JBD-SP25S003
# of cells supported 4 8 16
Communications port? Yes (5V TTL serial, 9600 Yes (5V TTL serial, 9600 Yes (5V TTL serial, 9600 8n1,
8n1, via JST XH 4-pin 8n1, via JST XH 4-pin via JST XH 4-pin connector)
connector) connector)
Dimensions (not including 4” W x 5.4” H x 0.65” T 4” W x 5.9” H x 0.7” T 4.75” W x 5.71” H x 0.65” T
wires) (102mm W x 138mm H x (102mm W x 150.5mm H x (120mm W x 145mm H x
16.5mm T) 18mm T) 17mm T)
Weight 10 ounces 12 ounces 17 ounces
(290 grams) (340 grams) (481 grams)
D.1. Pinouts
Part Numbers:
● Female housing: JST XHP-5
● Pins for female housing: JST SXH-001T-P0.6
● Male connector, through-hole, vertical: JST B5B-XH-A
● Male connector, through-hole, right-angle: JST S5B-XH-A-1
D.1.1.2 24V BMS Balance Connector:
Part Numbers:
● Female housing: JST XHP-11
● Pins for female housing: JST SXH-001T-P0.6
● Male connector, through-hole, vertical: JST B11B-XH-A
● Male connector, through-hole, right-angle: JST S11B-XH-A-1
D.1.1.3 48V BMS Balance Connector
4 BC15 BC22 Balance tap. Cell #15 positive & cell #16 negative White
5 BC14 BC21 Balance tap. Cell #14 positive & cell #15 negative White
6 BC13 BC20 Balance tap. Cell #13 positive & Cell #14 negative White
9 BC12 BC17 Balance tap. Cell# 12 positive & Cell #13 negative White
10 BC11 BC16 Balance tap. Cell #11 positive & Cell #12 negative Black
Part Numbers:
● Female housing: JST XHP-10
● Pins for female housing: JST SXH-001T-P0.6
● Male connector, through-hole, vertical: JST B10B-XH-A
● Male connector, through-hole, right-angle: JST S10B-XH-A-1
2 BC9 BC9 Balance tap. Cell #9 positive & Cell #10 negative White
3 BC8 BC8 Balance tap. Cell #8 positive & Cell #9 negative White
4 BC7 BC7 Balance tap. Cell #7 positive & Cell #8 negative White
5 BC6 BC6 Balance tap. Cell #6 positive & Cell #7 negative White
6 BC5 BC5 Balance tap. Cell #5 positive & Cell #6 negative White
7 BC4 BC4 Balance tap. Cell #4 positive & Cell #5 negative White
8 BC3 BC3 Balance tap. Cell #3 positive & Cell #4 negative White
9 BC2 BC2 Balance tap. Cell #2 positive & Cell #3 negative White
10 BC1 BC1 Balance tap. Cell #1 positive & Cell #2 negative White
[1]
This column represents the “16-cell specific” “common sense” name for each balance lead. We use this
[2]
This column represents the balance lead names printed on the BMS itself. This BMS circuit board is capable
of supporting up to 24 cells, however we do not support this BMS in any other configurations except 16-cell;
We chose to use consecutive balance lead names on our wiring diagrams; use the common-sense 16-cell
specific names, and simply ignore the names labeled on the BMS circuit board.
Part Numbers:
● Female housing: JST XHP-11
● Pins for female housing: JST SXH-001T-P0.6
● Male connector, through-hole, vertical: JST B11B-XH-A
● Male connector, through-hole, right-angle: JST S11B-XH-A-1
4 Ground Black
Note: The Bluetooth module’s serial interface connector is wired backwards from above. Pins 1 and 4 are
swapped, and pins 2 and 3 are swapped.
Part Numbers:
● Female housing: JST XHP-4
● Pins for female housing: JST SXH-001T-P0.6
● Male connector, through-hole, vertical: JST B4B-XH-A
● Male connector, through-hole, right-angle: JST S4B-XH-A-1
Part Numbers:
● Female housing: JST XHP-2
● Pins for female housing: JST SXH-001T-P0.6
● Male connector, through-hole, vertical: JST B2B-XH-A
● Male connector, through-hole, right-angle: JST S2B-XH-A-1
Note that the JST GH connector has a locking mechanism that must be pressed before the connector can be
removed. We recommend that they be left alone. Do not disconnect them.
Part Numbers:
● Female housing: JST GHR-02V-S
● Pins for female housing: JST SSHL-002T-P0.2
● Male connector, SMT (surface-mount), vertical: JST BM02B-GHS-TBT
● Male connector, SMT (surface-mount), right-angle: JST SM02B-GHS-TB
Note that the JST PH connector does not have a locking mechanism. The manufacturer has decided to glue
the connectors in place as a precaution, so that they do not pull out. We recommend that they be left alone.
Do not pull them out.
Part Numbers:
● Female housing: JST PHR-2
● Pins for female housing (28-24AWG): JST SPH002T-P0.5L
● Male connector, through-hole, vertical: JST B2B-PH-K-S
● Male connector, through-hole, right-angle: JST S2B-PH-K-S
Note that this app supports password protection of parameter settings, even though the actual BMS does
not. The app accomplishes this through a clever hack. The password is stored plain-text in the BMS name
field, which gets written to the BMS non-volatile memory. The app cross-checks the value stored in the BMS
name to the value stored in the app. More information can be found on the app developer’s github project.
NOTE: Avoid pressing the giant padlock on the main screen. If you touch it, it engages the “mosfet software
lock” without confirmation. Then it disappears. To find it again, you must switch the app mode from driving
mode to monitor mode and back. Avoid clicking it.
Download the latest release from the OverkillSolar Open Source Projects page and run the application.
25 12 AWG 4 mm²
30 10 AWG 6 mm²
40 8 AWG 10 mm²
50 6 AWG 16 mm²
60 6 AWG 16 mm²
80 4 AWG 25 mm²
90 4 AWG 25 mm²
Cut the bar to the proper length, and drill slightly-oversized holes at the correct distance for your batteries.
Optionally place heat-shrink tubing over the bare middle section, but ensure that it will not interfere with the
electrical connection.
Appendix G: Glossary
AC: Alternating current. In the context of this document, this means wall power (or shore power, in the
marine / RV parlance).
Balancing: The process of equalizing the voltages between series cells within a battery pack. This process
can be passive (as is the case with our BMS), or active.
Bus bar: Short, thick pieces of metal that connect individual cells together within a battery pack. Ideally
made out of copper. Bus bars should be sized to the maximum expected current in the circuit, and
should always be fully tightened, and checked periodically.
CC/CV: Constant-current, constant-voltage. This is a topology of power supply with the ability to regulate
both current and voltage (though only one of these modes would be activated at a time). The supply
will have controls for both, usually knobs, that define the maximum voltage and current. When on,
the power supply will be in one of two modes: constant-current, or constant-voltage. Usually the
mode will be indicated by LEDs. When in constant-voltage mode, the voltage will be regulated, and
the current will vary depending on the load’s needs. When in constant-current mode, the current will
be regulated, and the voltage may vary depending on the load’s needs. These power supplies are
typically advertised as lab power supplies, and are typically used during the electronics prototyping
process. They’re great to have around, and have many uses. Every DIYer should consider having at
least one.
Cutoff: A feature of the BMS, which will disconnect the battery from the charger and/or load when an error
condition occurs.
Load: The portion of a circuit which consumes electric power. In this context of this document, a load is
typically the items that are being powered by the battery and/or solar panels (e.g. lights, cooking
equipment, computers, and phones).
Parallel: In the context of batteries, a parallel circuit is when multiple battery cells are connected with their
positive terminals connected together, and their negative terminals connected together. This
increases the current capacity of the battery, but not the voltage.
Self discharge: A battery’s natural tendency to lose charge over time, even when no load is applied. It is
caused by chemical reactions within the positive electrode, negative electrode, and/or the electrolyte.
All rechargeable batteries exhibit this behavior, although certain chemistries are less susceptible to it.
Higher temperatures can accelerate self-discharge.
Series: In the context of batteries, a series circuit is when multiple battery cells are connected in a chain, so
each cell’s positive terminal is connected to the next cell’s negative terminal. This increases the
voltage, but not the current capacity.
Thermal runaway: A dangerous feedback cycle that occurs when batteries turn excess energy into heat,
which in turn releases oxygen, which in turn makes more heat. This can result in venting, bulging, fire,
and explosions, depending on the battery chemistry.