See discussions, stats, and author profiles for this publication at: https://www.researchgate.

net/publication/272352549

Textile Research and Development

Research · February 2015

DOI: 10.13140/2.1.1897.2965

CITATIONS READS

0 948

1 author:

Mohammad Shoeb Khan

Alabama Agricultural and Mechanical University
1 PUBLICATION   0 CITATIONS   

SEE PROFILE

All content following this page was uploaded by Mohammad Shoeb Khan on 16 February 2015.

The user has requested enhancement of the downloaded file.

 1-A

PREFACE

It is my great pleasure that I am going to release this piece of work on textile fabrics to meet my desire
of spreading out the knowledge on research and development. I got the idea and inspiration of such a
work from friends and colleagues who organized a good intention about this work. The information
provided in this book will not only help the students of textiles but also the dyers and colorists whom it
will assist and keep abreast of current developments. The sources of the information are diverse: lecture
notes, standard textbooks, manufacturer’s instruction books, research papers, practical experiences,
and discussion on various topics related textile development.

The writing of this book consists virtually of six portions. The first is the basic quality description, the
second is for the swatches, third is knitting section, dyeing description on fourth, parameters for
finishing goods on fifth and finally the stability of the goods. All the test method used here by the rules
of International Organization for Standardization.

This guide can be useful to advanced level students who already covered a minimum level in textile but
facing problem to dominate over the works. In fact, I have prepared this guide when I have already
covered most of the fabric construction. I want to give special thanks to my honorable AGM sir of Tosrifa
Industries Limited who helped me a lot about learning and evaluating the knitted fabric construction
and design. Also my warm pleasure goes to senior executives who supplied me valuable information.

To get the highest benefit of this guide, the aspirants should get a hard copy of it so that they can mark
some data in order to make it practical. It is sincerely hoped that such readers will be convinced in the
mill, the development of various kinds of fabrics can be of real service to them in their day-to-day
quality control and development. My heartiest gratitude goes to my younger brother who is my all-time
inspiration for everything and the epitome of diligence and perfection. I must thank my friends for their
inspiration and my special gratitude goes to my housemates who tolerated and gradually became inured
to my eccentricities.

M SHOEB KHAN
APRIL, 2013.

TEXTILE R&D
 1-B

Contents

1 Introducing the Textile R&D 1

General Definition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Some Theories and process flowcharts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Dyes and Chemical Lists ....................................................9

2 Development Sample 1 12

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Dyeing parameters and Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

3 Development Sample 2 14

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Dyeing parameters and Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Test Reports and comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

4 Development Sample 3 17

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Dyeing parameters and Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Test Reports and comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

5 Development Sample 4 20

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Dyeing parameters and Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Test Reports and comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
 1-B

6 Development Sample 5 23

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Dyeing parameters and Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Test Reports and comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

7 Development Sample 6 25

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Test Reports and comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

8 Development Sample 7 28

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

9 Development Sample 8 30

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

10 Development Sample 9 32

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Test Reports and Comments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
 1-B

11 Development Sample 10 34

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

12 Development Sample 11 36

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Dyeing parameters and Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

13 Development Sample 12 38

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

14 Development Sample 13 39

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

15 Development Sample 14 41

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
 1-B

16 Development Sample 15 43

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Test Reports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

17 Development Sample 16 45

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

18 Development Sample 17 47

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

19 Development Sample 18 50

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

20 Development Sample 19 52

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
 1-B

21 Development Sample 20 54

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

22 Development Sample 21 56

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

23 Development Sample 22 57

Basic Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Fabric Swatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Knitting Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Dyeing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Finishing parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Test Reports and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

24 References 58
1 Introducing Textile R&D

The preparation processes of textile fibers and fabrics is much varied and the combination of these fibers
in textile fabrics are so diversified that it is difficult to compress this subject matter into a moderately
sized volume. The processing operations of textile goods are presented in a sequential manner. Though it
starts from the raw cotton or like materials of other fibers to the end user finished garments, some
conditions are acknowledged throughout the process like basic calculations for volume, density,
temperature, absorbency, dimensional stability and lots of other testing related operations which must be
accounted.
General definitions-
The use of textiles for clothing and furnishing depends upon a unique combination of properties. Textiles
are warm; they are soft to the touch; they are completely flexible and thus take up any desired shape
without resistance; and they are usually hard wearing. Textiles can be derived by „interlacing‟ or
„intermeshing‟ of threads. Now, the threads or yarns are built up by twisting together the long, thin,
flexible but strong things we call fibers. There are various kinds of fibers exists in the world like natural
fibers as cotton, wool, silk etc., manmade fibers as viscose, polyamides, polyesters, polyvinyl derivatives
etc.
Textile fabrics are derived by three methods of production.

1. Interweaving: The intersection of two sets of straight threads, warp and weft, which cross and
interweave at right angles to each other.

2. Interlooping: Here yarns make loops with each other, each of loops is typically only released after a
succeeded loop has been formed and intermeshed with it so that a secure ground loop structure is
achieved.

3. Intertwining and twisting: It consists of a number of techniques, such as braiding and knotting, where
threads are caused to intertwine each other at right or other angles. This technique is only used for
specific purposes.

1
The physiological sensation of color arises when an object does not reflect all the incident white light
falling on it. Some of the light energy is absorbed and the remainder is reflected perceived as color. The
absorption of light energy by an organic dye or inorganic pigment causes an electron to „jump‟ into a
higher energy level, thus bringing the dye molecule into an excited state. Textile coloration is a
combination of some series processes such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing, and aftertreatment which can
be carried out at different stages of fiber processing in different forms like staple, yarn, fabric or may be
garments. Dyeing in staple form (loose structure) is much better for achieving good color fastness,
maximum penetration and uniform migration of dyes over dyeing. Usually, textile coloration is carried
out to impart aesthetic attraction of textiles and pretreatment is the first stage of textile coloration process,
plays very vital role on coloring of textiles.

Theories-

In this section the theories illustrated are basically needed for the production related matter,
dyeing recipe calculation and so on. Most of the theories in this section are based on the work
published by the International Wool Secretariat, The Textile Institute and other organizations.

1. No. of needles = No. of wales = ΠDG

2. No. of yarn = No. of feeder = No. of courses per revolution
3. Stitch Length =
4. Table:1.1 Constants for Geometry of Plain-knitted Fabrics in Various Stable States
Parameter

Fabric
States ks kc kw kc/kw

Dry-relaxed 19.0 5.0 3.8 1.31

Wet-relaxed 21.6 5.3 4.1 1.29

Finished-relaxed 23.6 5.6 4.22 1.32

The constants were derived by using similar length units for courses per unit length, wales per
unit length and stitch length. In Imperial units, the inch is used, and in metric system the centimeter is
used. However, in SI, the recommended length unit for courses and wales per unit length is the centimeter
and that for the stitch length is millimeter. This causes values of ks to be multiplied by 100 and those of kc
and kw by 10. The ratio kc/kw is not, of course, affected.

5. Areal density = x x linear density (tex)

= ⁄

Where, stitch length l is in mm.

Stitch density, S =

2
 6. No. of wales/cm, w =

7. Width of Plain-Knitted Fabric:

If there are n needles knitting on the machine, it follows that:
fabric width =
we know from the relation of wales/cm and stitch length that,
w=

Hence a general formula for fabric width is:

Fabric width =

= cm

The value of constant is given in Table 1 for three stable states.

Furthermore, the fabric course length, L, is n x l, and the fabric width can be therefore be
expressed as:

cm

Example: A machine of 46-cm diameter has 4 needles/cm. The stitch length is 7 mm. Estimate
the fabric width in finished-relaxed state.

We have,

= =

Hence, finished width = 96 cm.

This value of 96 cm is that obtained with the fabric in the flat form, so that, with the fabric in the
tubular form, the finished width will be 96/2 = 48 cm.

Fabric Length = = Results (yds)

Meter =

8. Knitting production theory:

Production, P = kg

Production calculated per shift, 1 shift = 8 hours

3
Dyeing Related Theories:

9. PH:
Actually PH is the relative amount of H+ in a solution. It is defined as; PH is the negative logarithm
of H+ in a solution. It measures the moles of H+ per liter of solution.
PH, 0-3 = strongly acidic
PH, 4-6 = weakly acidic
PH, 7 = neutral
PH, 8-10 = weakly alkaline
PH, 11-14 = strongly alkaline
10. In recipe, the % amount calculated by-
Required amount reagent = Material weight X recipe amount %
In laboratory dyeing where necessary amount of dyes and chemicals are in very little amount,
here the calculation is-
Required amount reagent = (Material weight X recipe amount %) /stock solution %
Stock Solution: 1% stock solution is very common in dyeing process. In the laboratory, 1.0gm
solid powder (100% concentration) of dyestuff or chemical is taken in a conical flask and pours
100ml of warm water (45°C) and stir to dissolve the reagent to make 1% stock solution of that
dyestuff or chemical.
For preparing 0.1% stock solution : 10ml or 1ml of 1.0% solution need to mix with 90ml or 9ml
water respectively.
11. gm/l amount respect to liquor:
Required amount reagent = Total liquor X Recipe amount in gm/l

Common Textile auxiliaries used in dyeing:

Acid – Chemical compound that dissolves in water and provide H+ (proton).

Strong acid – completely ionized in water. Example – HClO4, HI, HBr, HCl, HNO3, H2SO4 etc.
Weak acid – partial ionized in water. Example – HF, H2S, HCN, and most organic acids.

Alkali – Chemical compound that dissolve in water and provide OH- ion.
Strong alkali - NaOH, KOH, LiOH, Mg(OH)2 and most metallic hydroxides.
Weak alkali – NH4OH and most organic alkalis.

Buffer – Saturated solution of acid-salt or alkali-salt mixture. It resists the change of PH on addition of
acid or alkali. Usually it is used to control the PH of any bath solution.

Example – Acetic acid – CH3COOH CH3COO- + H-

Sodium acetate - CH3COONa CH3COO- + Na+

4
Table 1.2 Some common textile fiber‟s properties are given below:

Residual moisture Potential water Melting and

Fiber Density (gm/cc)
content % retention % degradation point
Brittle at 100°C,
Wool 1.31 13-15 42 Decomposes at 130°C
Turn yellow at 120°C,
Cotton 1.5 – 1.54 7 45 Turns brown at 150°C
No damage < 150°C,
Silk 1.33 9 N/A Decomposes at 180°C
Resistant for 1hr at
Viscose 1.52 13 90 – 95 115°C, later yellowing
and loss of strength
Plastic formation at
Acetate 1.33 6.5 20 – 25 175°C - 190°C, Melts
at 260°C
Sticky at 230°C, Melts
Triacetate 1.30 3.2 12 – 18 at approx.. 300°C
Yellow after 5 hrs at
Nylon 6.6 1.14 4 – 4.5 10 – 12 150°C, Softens at
220°C - 240°C
After 5 hrs 50%
strength loss at 150°C,
Nylon 6 1.13 3.5 – 5 10 – 12 Softens at 160°C -
200°C
Dry heat resistance at
Polyester 1.38 0.3 – 0.4 3–5 150°C, Melts at 250°C
- 266°C
Heat resistance to
Polyacrylonitrile 1.16 1 – 1.15 4.5 – 6 140°C
Shrinks at 70°C, Melts
Polyvinylchloride 1.38 0.1 N/A at 180°C
0-5% shrink at 100°C,
Polypropylene 0.90 0.01 0.01 Melts at approx..
165°C
5-9% shrink at 140°C,
Softens at 140°C -
Glass 2.5 0.0 0.0 165°C, After 24 hrs at
300°C losses 20%
strength

5
Figure 1.1 Knit dyeing production process:

Batch Receive fabric from grey store (Knitting)

Section

Checking / Heat setting / Back sewing etc.

Dyeing Section Batch loading into machine

. +
Chemical Store Scouring and Bleaching

Enzyme

Dyeing

Fixing / Softening / LPD wash / But no silicon

Finishing

Tube Open
Squeezer Slitting

Drying Stentering with silicon/softener

Turning Finish / (Brush / Peach)

Steam setting / Soft setting Stentering

Ferraro / Tubetex Compacting Compacting

Quality Final Checking

Control
Lab Lab test (Shrinkage, Fastness etc.

Delivery Delivery to Store

Final delivery to supplier / garments

6
Figure 1.2 Garment Dyeing cycle

Weaved fabrics Yarn/Filament Knitted fabrics

Griege Fabric

Scouring

Bleaching

Garment

Batch dyeing
and/or printing

Wet or dry Final inspection

finishing and packing

7
Figure 1.3 synthetic fiber Dyeing cycle

Filament Yarn Fabrics

Texturizing Heat Setting

Scouring and/or Decortication

dyeing

Dyeing and/or
printing

Washing after
dyeing and/or
printing

Finishing and
inspection

8
Below is some list of dyes and chemicals which has been used for making most of the development
samples. Table 1.3

Dyes List
Code Brand & Name Brand & Name
BEMACRON BEZEMA AG(Germany) - Disperse Dyes ELBO (Hongkong)

43 BEMA BLUE SERDL 38 ELBO RED 3BSN

53 BEMA CARMINE HP2G 74 ELBO RED SB2B
110 BEMA NAVY DRD 73 ELBO YELLOW SB
108 BEMA NAVY RS 5 ELBO ORANGE-F2R
51 BEMA NAVY SERDL 1 ELBO YELLOW-3RS
40 BEMA RED HPB
79 BEMA RED RS IMPO
45 BEMA RED SERDL
70 BEMA RUBINE HP3B 64 IMPO NAVY E-2G
39 BEMA T/BLUE SGF 100 IMPO YELLOW E-3R
41 BEMA YELLOW HP2R
154 BEMA YELLOW SEL 8G MEGAFIX (Gujrat, India) -Reactive Dyes
44 BEMA YELLOW SERDL
20 MEGAFIX BLUE MBL
BEZA 22 MEGAFIX RED MRL
150 MEGAFIX RED RML
143 BEZA COS ORANGE SC 21 MEGAFIX YELLOW MYL
142 BEZA COS NAVY SC
141 BEZA COS RED SC NOVACRON (Mainland, China) -Reactive Dyes
162 BEZA YELLOW S8G
71 BEZA BLACK S-MAX 148 NOVA RED FN3GL
75 BEZA BLUE S-MATRIX
37 BEZA BLUE VRSP OR
30 BEZA RED VBN
42 BEZA T/BLUE VG 77 OR RED BELL
27 BEZA RED S2B
14 BEZA NAVY SBL REACTO (Fluorescent UV Dyes)
15 BEZA YELLOW S8G
67 BLACK STL 4 REACTO YELLOW-4GL
33 BLACK WNN 98 REACTO BLUE SGLD
CIBA RAMAZOL (Germany) - Reactive Dyes
29 CIBA RED FN3GL 159 REMA BRILLIANT BLUE - BB
16 CIBA BLUE-FNR 158 REMA BRILLIANT YELLOW - 3GL
17 CIBA YELLOW FN2R 125 REMA BIL BLUE BB
P13 COTOBLANCE COL 23 REMA BLUE RR
129 REMA NAVY RGB
DYSTAR (Germany) 124 REMA RED F3B
127 REMA RED RGB
157 DY BLACK XF 25 REMA RED RR
156 DY RUBINE XFS 138 REMA YELLOW 3GL
155 DY YELLOW BROWNXF 126 REMA YELLOW RGBN
24 REMA YELLOW RR
SOLA Dyes Industries India 113 REMA T/BLUE G
93 SOLA BLUE HEGN STRONG
97 SOLA BLUE RSPL
153 STRONG T/BLUE SBF
TERASIL
161 TERASIL BLUE BGE
160 TERASIL RED FBN

9
 Chemicals List
Name Supplier Country

Acetic Acid Jubilant life science ltd India

Albaexi AB-45
Albatex FFC Huntsman Germany
AN Tshamer K-50
Anticrease - 200/JN Bangpo Chem Co. Thailand
Appriton
Arnis PMD
Arristan 64 CHT Germany
Arristan PSR
Biavin 109/FA CHT Germany
Biavin BPA
Bio Polish CR Enzytex Exp Ltd Srilanka
Bio Polish EC
Biosoft C 100
Biosoft ME
Bleaching Powder Latifa
Catalys BF CHT Germany
Catalys CS
Caustic ASM Chem
Cibafix ECO Huntsman
Contavan PAB CHT Germany
Cotoblance NSR
Cotoblance SEL
Dispergator X-HTS
EF-200
Egasol AME
Felosan RGN
Glauber Salt
GSS
Heptol EMG CHT Germany
Hydrose Latifa
Igrasol FL Huntsman
Invatexi SA
ISYS AG CHT Germany
Jantex TPA Chemitex Service
Merapon DPE CHT Germany
Merapon / Redulit RED
Merapon CIT
Merapon DPC
Nano Stable SBR
Nanocrane CMR
Nanolev BDL Lamberti
Nanolev CLV
Nearisorve FBT
Nearpon BWLF/DTC Nearchima Spa Italy
Nearsoft JS / Biosoft C-100 Olay Int Co Ltd Taiwan
Nenoler BDL
Nutracid NVM 200 CHT Germany
Oxalic Acid Latifa
Peroxide RJM Corp Ltd
Polyven PAN CHT Germany
Rewin DD (fixing)
Rewin KNR
Salt J C Ind Corp Ltd China
Sapamine CWS
Saparine KL
Sarabid DLO CHT Germany
Sarabid LDR
Sarabid MIP
Scourzym L Enzytex Exp Ltd Srilanka

10
Seragel CFTR Scarlet Service
Sirrix SB Clarient
Soda Ash J C Ind Corp Ltd China
Softner MNS
Subitol FFC CHT Germany
Subitol RNC
Tubingal 1112
Tubingal KRE
Tubingal MSQ
Tuboblance COL
Ultraphor BN Clarient / BASF
Urea Latifa
Uvitex BHT

11
2 Development Sample 1 – Single Jersey

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 50% Cotton + 50% Black SIM Polyester, Fabric GSM: 152,
Yarn Description : 34’Ne/1 Combed Cotton + 75D/2 Black Semi-intermingle Polyester,
Color : White + Black Stripe
Fabric Swatch 1:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X28G, Stitch Length – 2.7
Yarn Arrangement: 1 feeder Cotton yarn + 1 feeder Black SIM Polyester yarn
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement: KKKK

KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters and Description:
Fabric weight = 15.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 120 Liters,
Step 1 – Normal White

12
 Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.8 gm/l 96 gm
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Sequestering agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc 90°C X 20′
Caustic 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Stabilizer 0.3 cc/l 36 cc
H2O2 1.5 cc/l 180 cc
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic Acid 0.8 cc/l 96 cc 55°C X 6′
Enzyme 1.0 cc/l 120 cc 55°C X 50′
Step 3 – Dyeing All 60
. Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Neutracid NVM 0.5 cc/l 60 cc 40°C X 2′
Softener 2.0 % 300 gm
Process:
1. At first water was taken in the machine at required level
2. Then fabric was loaded in the machine
3. Detergent, Sequestering agent, Anti-creasing agent, stabilizer were added at 60° C × 5 min
4. Caustic soda dozing was done at 60°C for 10 min, then temperature raised to 80°C
5. Peroxide dozing was done at 80°C for 5 min
6. Temperature was raised up at 90°C & machine was run for 20 min
7. Hot wash at 98 o c X 10 min
8. Acid were added at 60°C X 20 min & after that chemicals drained out
9. Again acid was added at 55°C X 6 min for maintaining the PH 4.5
10. Then Enzyme was added at 55°C X 50 min and drained
11. Rinse then cold wash at 400 C × 5 min
12. Hot wash at 80 o c X 10 min
13. Then machine was filled with water.
14. Neurtracid was added at 40°C X 2 min
15. Softener was added at the same time
16. Rinse then cold wash at 400 C × 5 min
Fabric was then unloaded
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 39″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting for fabric width - 70″ open
After stenter, fabric width - 70″ open and GSM - 145
After relaxation, fabric width – 69.5″ open
Compacting setting for fabric width - 68″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 68″ open and GSM – 152
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -4.3%, Width: -1.0%, Twisting: 4%
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability within tolerance and outlook is well
furnished. Also this fabric has a good elasticity as it is feel like a lycra has been inserted but it is
constructed without any lycra. This is due to the semi intermingle of the polyester thread.

13
3 Development Sample 2 – Single Jersey
Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 75% Modal + 25% Linen, Fabric GSM: 115,
Yarn Description : 40’Ne/1 (75% Modal + 25% Linen), Color : Pink
Fabric Swatch 2:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X28G, Stitch Length – 2.6
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement: KKKK

KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters and Description:
Fabric weight = 15.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 120 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 60 cc 95°C X 20′

14
 Soda ash 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Acetic acid 0.5 cc/l 60 cc 60°C X 15′
Step 2 – Pet Dyeing
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Leveling agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Glauber‟s salt 60.0 gm/l 7200 gm All 40
ELBO RED 3BSN 0.65 % 97.5 gm
ELBO YELOOW 3RS 0.40 % 60 gm
ELBO BLUE 0.02 % 3 gm
Soda ash 15 gm/l 1800 gm
Step 3 – Dyeing All 40
. Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic Acid 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
IGRASOL FL (improve color fastness) 0.6 cc/l 72 cc Hot at 80°C
Step 4 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 60 cc
Softener 2 % 300 gm 40°C X 15′
Process:
1. At first water was taken in the machine at required level
2. Then fabric was loaded in the machine
3. Detergent, Sequestering agent, Anti-creasing agent, soda ash were added and raised to 95° C × 20 min
4. Then the chemical drained and again water loaded.
5. Acetic acid was added and raised temperature to 60°C and runtime 15 min.
6. After drain the chemical water then again machine loaded with water.
7. Leveling, Anti-creasing, Sequestering agents and Glauber‟s salt added and process done at All 40.
8. Then color dosing done and after that soda ash again added for the fixation process.
9. All chemical drained and again fresh water was loaded and acetic acid and IGRASOL FL was added
for neutralization and improving the color fastness at 80°C.
10. Then again acetic acid and softener added and run at 40°C for 15 min.
11. Rinse then cold washes at 400 C × 5 min.
Fabric was then unloaded
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 33.5″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting for fabric width - 61″ open
After stenter, fabric width - 61″ open and GSM - 110
After relaxation, fabric width – 61″ open
Compacting setting for fabric width - 59″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 59″ open and GSM – 115

15
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -4.2%, Width: -2.5%, Twisting: 5%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 4-5, Wet Rub – 4
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4-5, Color staining – 4
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5

Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability slightly fluctuated but outlook is good.
This fabric can be used as ornamentation covered on another cotton fabric.

16
4 Development Sample 3 – Single Jersey
Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 90% Modal + 10% Flat, Fabric GSM: 106,
Yarn Description : 40’Ne/1 (90% Modal + 10% Flat), Color : Navy
Fabric Swatch 3:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X28G, Stitch Length – 2.7
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement: KKKK

KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters and Description:
Fabric weight = 15.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 120 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 60 cc 95°C X 20′
Soda ash 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Acetic acid 0.5 cc/l 60 cc 60°C X 15′

17
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Leveling agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Glauber‟s salt 60.0 gm/l 7200 gm All 40
ELBO BLACK B 1.0 % 150 gm
ELBO NAVY 2.0 % 300 gm
ELBO RED 3BSN 0.65 % 97.5 gm
Soda ash 15 gm/l 1800 gm
Step 3 – Dyeing All 40
. Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic Acid 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
IGRASOL FL (improve color fastness) 0.6 cc/l 72 cc Hot at 80°C
Step 4 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 60 cc
Softener 2 % 300 gm 40°C X 15′
Process:
1. At first water was taken in the machine at required level
2. Then fabric was loaded in the machine
3. Detergent, Sequestering agent, Anti-creasing agent, soda ash were added and raised to 95° C × 20 min
4. Then the chemical drained and again water loaded.
5. Acetic acid was added and raised temperature to 60°C and runtime 15 min.
6. After drain the chemical water then again machine loaded with water.
7. Leveling, Anti-creasing, Sequestering agents and Glauber‟s salt added and process done at All 40.
8. Then color dosing done and after that soda ash again added for the fixation process.
9. All chemical drained and again fresh water was loaded and acetic acid and IGRASOL FL was added
for neutralization and improving the color fastness at 80°C.
10. Then again acetic acid and softener added and run at 40°C for 15 min.
11. Rinses then cold wash at 400 C × 5 min.
Fabric was then unloaded
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 30.5″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting for fabric width - 53″ open
After stenter, fabric width - 53″ open and GSM - 97
After relaxation, fabric width – 52.5″ open
Compacting setting for fabric width - 51″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 51″ open and GSM – 106

18
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -3.7%, Width: -2.5%, Twisting: 4%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 4, Wet Rub – 3-4
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4, Color staining – 4
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 3-4, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability within tolerance and outlook is good. This
fabric shows a glitter effect only when dyed with dark colors due to the flat fibers. This is a highly
adorned fabric. When the light falls on the flat fiber it scatters the light immediately with absorbing less
than 10%.

19
5 Development Sample 4 – Single Jersey

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 50% Modal + 50% Cationic, Fabric GSM: 133,
Yarn Description : 40’Ne/1 (50% Modal + 50% Cationic), Color : Lavender
Fabric Swatch 4:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X28G, Stitch Length – 2.5
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement: KKKK

KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters and Description:
Fabric weight = 12.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 96 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 1.0 gm/l 96 gm
Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 76.8 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 48 cc 95°C X 20′

20
 Soda ash 1.0 gm/l 96 gm
Acetic acid 0.5 cc/l 48 cc 60°C X 15′
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Leveling agent 1.0 cc/l 96 cc
Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 76.8 cc
Sequestering agent 1.0 cc/l 96 cc
Glauber‟s salt 60.0 gm/l 5760 gm All 40
ELBO BLUE 0.2 % 24 gm
ELBO YELLOW 0.6 % 72 gm
ELBO RED 3BSN 1.5 % 180 gm
Soda ash 15 gm/l 1440 gm
Step 3 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic Acid 0.8 cc/l 76.8 cc
IGRASOL FL (improve color fastness) 0.6 cc/l 57.6 cc Hot at 80°C
Step 4 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 48 cc
Softener 2 % 240 gm 40°C X 15′
Process:
1. At first water was taken in the machine at required level
2. Then fabric was loaded in the machine
3. Detergent, Sequestering agent, Anti-creasing agent, soda ash were added and raised to 95° C × 20 min
4. Then the chemical drained and again water loaded.
5. Acetic acid was added and raised temperature to 60°C and runtime 15 min.
6. After drain the chemical water then again machine loaded with water.
7. Leveling, Anti-creasing, Sequestering agents and Glauber‟s salt added and process done at All 40.
8. Then color dosing done and after that soda ash again added for the fixation process.
9. All chemical drained and again fresh water was loaded and acetic acid and IGRASOL FL was added
for neutralization and improving the color fastness at 80°C.
10. Then again acetic acid and softener added and run at 40°C for 15 min.
11. Rinse then cold washes at 400 C × 5 min.
Fabric was then unloaded
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 37.5″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting for fabric width - 62″ open
After stenter, fabric width - 62″ open and GSM - 127
After relaxation, fabric width – 61.5″ open
Compacting setting for fabric width – 60.5″ open
After compacting, fabric width – 60.5″ open and GSM – 133

21
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -2.8%, Width: -2.0%, Twisting: 2%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 4-5, Wet Rub – 4
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4-5, Color staining – 4-5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability within tolerance and outlook is good.

22
6 Development Sample 5 – Single Jersey
Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 100% Linen-Melange, Fabric GSM: 185,
Yarn Description : 26’Nm/1 Linen
Color : Red + Grey + Dk Grey + Dk Gold + Navy Stripe (2cm+1.8cm+1.8cm+1cm+1cm)
Fabric Swatch 5:

Knitting Parameters:
Yarn Arrangement: 24 feeders Red + 22 feeders Grey + 22 feeders Dk Grey + 13 feeders Dk Gold + 13
feeder Navy
Knitting machine description: 30″X12GX72F, Stitch Length – 4.10
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement: KKKK

KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters and Description:
Fabric weight = 20.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 160 Liters,
Step 1 – Y/D Wash
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.3 gm/l 48 gm

23
 Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Cotoblance Sel XCW 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 55°C X 60′
Biozym CNC 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 70°C X 10′

Process:
1. At first water was taken in the machine at required level
2. Then fabric was loaded in the machine
3. Detergent, Acetic acid, Anti-creasing agent were added at 55°C for 60 min
4. Biozym added at 70°C for 10 min.
5. Machine drain and filled.
6. Hot wash at 80 o c X 10 min
7. Rinse then cold wash at 400 C × 5 min
Fabric was then unloaded
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 35.5″ and slitting is done.
Dryer setting at 100°C and GSM - 165
After relaxation, fabric width – 47.5″ open
Compacting setting for fabric width - 45″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 45″ open and GSM – 178
After Steaming, fabric width - 43″ and GSM - 185
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -7.0%, Width: -5.0%, Twisting: 0%
Comments: The fabric has harsh hand feel, dimensional stability fluctuated from the requirement but this
result occurred due to linen‟s dimensional instability and outlook is well furnished. As its Drape
measurement is not good due to 100% linen, this fabric can only be used as decorative purposes. It looks
like a pretty good fabric.

24
7 Development Sample 6 – Single Jersey

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 50% Cotton+50% Mélange SIM Polyester, Fabric GSM: 133,
Yarn Description : 34’Ne/1 Cotton + 75D/2 Mélange SIM Polyester
Color : Yellow + Mélange Stripe (2.5cm+2cm)
Fabric Swatch 6:

Knitting Parameters:
Yarn Arrangement: 45 feeder cotton + 45 feeders Mélange SIM
Knitting machine description: 30″X28G, Stitch Length – 2.6
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement: KKKK

KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 20.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 160 Liters,

25
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.8 gm/l 128 gm
Anti-creasing agent 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Caustic 1.5 gm/l 240 cc
Stabilizer 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
H2O2 2.5 cc/l 400 cc 95°C X 20′
Step 2 – Dyeing All 40
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 55°C X 6′
Peroxide Killer 0.2 cc/l 32 cc 55°C X 6′
Biozyme CNC 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 55°C X 60′
Step 3 – Dyeing All 60
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Anti-creasing 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Leveling agent 1.0 cc/l 160 cc
Salt 20.0 gm/l 3200 gm
BEZA RED 0.25 % 50 gm
REACT YELLOW-4GL 1.5 % 300 gm
ELBO BLUE 0.15 % 30 gm
Soda ash 6 gm/l 960 gm 60°CX20′
Step – 4
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 0.5 cc/l 80 cc HOT
IGRASOL FL 0.4 cc/l 64 cc
Step – 5
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Neutracid NVM 0.5 cc/l 80 cc 40°CX20′
Softener 1.0 % 200 gm
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 39″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 18m/min, Overfeed – 50% with width 71″ open and GSM - 123
After relaxation, fabric width – 70.5″ open and GSM - 125
Compacting setting for fabric width - 69″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 69″ open and GSM – 133

26
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -0.3%, Width: -1.3%, Twisting: 1%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 4-5, Wet Rub – 4
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4-5, Color staining – 4-5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4-5, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability is outstanding and outlook is well
furnished. It has good pliability.

27
8 Development Sample 7 – Single Jersey

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 65% Polyester + 35% Viscose, Fabric GSM: 126,
Yarn Description : 40’Ne/1 PV Color: Mélange (Only Viscose Part Dyed)
Fabric Swatch 7:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X28G, Stitch Length – 2.5
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement: KKKK

KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 18.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 144 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.8 gm/l 115.2 gm 95°X20′
Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 115.2 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 72 cc

28
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 115.2 cc
Leveling agent 0.8 cc/l 115.2 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 72 cc
Glauber‟s salt 80 gm/l 11520 gm 95°C X 20′
BLUE 0.1 % 18 gm
RED 0.05 % 9 gm
YELLOW 0.02 % 3.6 gm
Soda ash 20 gm/l 2880 gm
Step 3 – Dyeing All 80
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 1.0 cc/l 144 cc Hot
Fixing agent 1.0 cc/l 144 cc
Step 4 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Neutracid NVM 0.5 cc/l 72 cc 40°CX40′
Biosoft 2.0 % 360 gm
Polyvan PAN 2.0 % 360 cc
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 39″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 18m/min, Overfeed – 50% with width 75″ open and GSM - 123
After relaxation, fabric width – 75″ open and GSM - 123
Compacting setting for fabric width - 74″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 74″ open and GSM – 126
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -1.5%, Width: -2.0%, Twisting: 1%
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability is outstanding and outlook is well
furnished.

29
9 Development Sample 8 – Ornamented Single Jersey

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 50% Polyester + 50% Cotton, Fabric GSM: 160,
Yarn Description : 40’Ne/1Cotton and 75D Black SIM Polyester Twisted
Color: Black and White
Fabric Swatch 8:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X28G, Stitch Length – 2.80
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement: KKKK

KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 10.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 80 Liters,
Step 1 – Y/D Wash
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.5 gm/l 40 gm
Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 40 cc

30
 Cotoblance Sel XCW 1.0 cc/l 80 cc 55°C X 60′
Biozym CNC 1.0 cc/l 80 cc 70°C X 10′

Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 39″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 18m/min, Overfeed – 60% with width 77″ open and GSM - 154
After relaxation, fabric width – 77″ open and GSM - 155
Compacting setting for fabric width - 76″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 76″ open and GSM – 160

Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -1.0%, Width: -1.5%, Twisting: 1%

Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability is outstanding and outlook is well
furnished.

31
 10 Development Sample 9 – Lycra Single Jersey

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Lycra Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 95% Viscose + 5% Lycra, Fabric GSM: 250,
Yarn Description : 40’Ne/1 Viscose + 20D Lycra Color: Pink
Fabric Swatch 9:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 34″X28G, Stitch Length – 2.9
Looping Diagram:
Lycra

Lycra

Lycra Lycra

Cam Arrangement: KKKK

KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 15.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 120 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.8 gm/l 96 gm 95°X20′

32
 Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 60 cc
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Anti-creasing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Leveling agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 60 cc
Glauber‟s salt 80 gm/l 9600 gm 95°C X 20′
BLUE 0.002 % 18 gm
RED 0.25 % 37.5 gm
Soda ash 20 gm/l 2400 gm
Step 3 – Dyeing All 80
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 1.0 cc/l 120 cc Hot
Fixing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Step 4 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Neutracid NVM 0.5 cc/l 60 cc 40°CX40′
Biosoft 2.0 % 300 gm
Finishing Parameters:
Open width – 62″ and slitting is done because of back sewing.
Stenter setting at 138°C, RPM- 17m/min, Overfeed – 55% with width 56″ open and GSM - 202
After relaxation, fabric width – 55″ open and GSM - 212
After steaming, fabric width - 50″ open and GSM – 250
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: +2.0%, Width: -4.0%, Twisting: 1%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 4-5, Wet Rub – 4-5
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4-5, Color staining – 4
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5

Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability is good and outlook is good. Before
dyeing the fabric has been heat settled at 190°C with 22 m/min in the stenter because of lycra with width
about 66″. The GSM of the fabric could be within 180-190 if the heat settled width lied in between 70″-
72″.

33
11 Development Sample 10 – Lycra Single Jersey – Nylon 6.6

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Lycra Single Jersey, Fabric Type: Single Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 96% Nylon + 4% Lycra, Fabric GSM: 185,
Yarn Description : 70D Nylon + 20D Lycra Color: Deep Pink
Fabric Swatch 10:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X28G, Stitch Length – 2.2
Looping Diagram:
Lycra

Lycra
Lycra
Lycra
Cam Arrangement: KKKK
KKKK
Needle Arrangement:
1 2
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 15.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 120 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 1.0 gm/l 120 gm 95°X20′
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Sequestering agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc

34
 Soda ash 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Dispersing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Leveling agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc 120°C – 1.5°/m
BEMA RED 1.5 % 225 gm 120°X40′
BEMA YELLOW 0.6 % 90 gm
BEMA BLUE 0.01 % 1.5 gm
Step 3 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 1.0 cc/l 120 cc Hot
Fixing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Step 4 – Lowering down the temperature 50-60°C at 1.5°C/m
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Cotoblance NSR 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Polyvan PAN 2 % 300 gm 40°CX40′
Finishing Parameters:
Open width – 46″ and slitting is done because of back sewing.
Stenter setting at 110°C, RPM- 17m/min, Overfeed – 55% with width 56″ open and GSM - 185
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -1.0%, Width: -1.5%, Twisting: 1%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 5, Wet Rub – 4
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4-5, Color staining – 4-5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4-5, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability is good and outlook is good. From the
manufacturer of polyamide goods it is recommended that a nylon fabric must be subjected to initial
scouring process before heat-setting is done because polyamide may be contaminated with soil including
graphite, certain oils and greases which may be very difficult to remove in dyeing process. Polyamides
need a gentle scouring with moderate temperature around 60°C.
Polyamide fibers are stronger than other common fibers and molecular chain in polyamide are more
linear. As there are no side chains with dye sites in polyamide, acid dye shows a great effect while dyeing
with polyamide fibers. It shows uniform dyeing and good colorfastness. But more care is required for
maintaining the uniformity. Comparatively with acid dyeing, disperse dyeing on nylon have relatively
poor fastness towards wet treatment, as well as ozone and nitrogen oxides. In this experiment, we carried
out this dyeing process by disperse dyes and we found relatively slight fluctuation from the
manufacturers‟ point of view. We, here, in this experiment heat settled the fabric before all scouring and
dyeing process and found the above test reports which show a better reading about polyamide dyeing with
disperse dyes at 120°C.

35
12 Development Sample 11 – Double face 1x1 Rib

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : 1x1 Rib, Fabric Type: Double Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 47.5% Cotton + 2.5% Viscose + 50% Modal, Fabric GSM: 204,
Yarn Description : 28’Ne/1 Cotton (5% Mélange) + 40’Ne/1 Modal, Color : White + Mélange
Fabric Swatch 11:

Face-side Back-side
Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 32″X18G, Stitch Length – 2.80+2.90
Dyeing Parameters and Description:
Fabric weight = 15.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 120 Liters,
Step 1 – Normal White
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.8 gm/l 96 gm
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Sequestering agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc 90°C X 20′
Caustic 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Stabilizer 0.3 cc/l 36 cc
H2O2 1.5 cc/l 180 cc
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic Acid 0.8 cc/l 96 cc 55°C X 6′
Enzyme 1.0 cc/l 120 cc 55°C X 50′
Step 3 – Dyeing All 60
. Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Neutracid NVM 0.5 cc/l 60 cc 40°C X 2′
Softener 2.0 % 300 gm
Process:
1. At first water was taken in the machine at required level

36
2. Then fabric was loaded in the machine
3. Detergent, Sequestering agent, Anti-creasing agent, stabilizer were added at 60° C × 5 min
4. Caustic soda dozing was done at 60°C for 10 min, then temperature raised to 80°C
5. Peroxide dozing was done at 80°C for 5 min
6. Temperature was raised up at 90°C & machine was run for 20 min
7. Hot wash at 98 o c X 10 min
8. Acid were added at 60°C X 20 min & after that chemicals drained out
9. Again acid was added at 55°C X 6 min for maintaining the PH 4.5
10. Then Enzyme was added at 55°C X 50 min and drained
11. Rinse then cold wash at 400 C × 5 min
12. Hot wash at 80 o c X 10 min
13. Then machine was filled with water.
14. Neurtracid was added at 40°C X 2 min
15. Softener was added at the same time
16. Rinse then cold wash at 400 C × 5 min
Fabric was then unloaded
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 21″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting for fabric width - 52″ open
After stenter, fabric width - 52″ open and GSM - 200
After relaxation, fabric width – 52″ open
Compacting setting for fabric width – 51.5″ open
After compacting, fabric width – 51.5″ open and GSM – 204
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -4.3%, Width: -5.8%, Twisting: 2%
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability within tolerance and outlook is well
furnished.

37
13 Development Sample 12 – Bird’s Eye

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Bird’s eye, Fabric Type: Double Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 92.5% Cotton + 7.5% Viscose, Fabric GSM: 310,
Yarn Description : 24’Ne/1Cotton (15% Mélange) + 18’Ne/1 Cotton
Color: White Mélange
Fabric Swatch 12:

Face-side Back-side
Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 32″X18G, Stitch Length – 4.10+3.40
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 10.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 80 Liters,
Step 1 – Y/D Wash
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.5 gm/l 40 gm
Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 40 cc
Cotoblance Sel XCW 1.0 cc/l 80 cc 55°C X 60′
Biozym CNC 1.0 cc/l 80 cc 70°C X 10′
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 38.5″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 18m/min, Overfeed – 60% with width 77″ open and GSM - 285
After relaxation, fabric width – 77″ open and GSM - 286
Compacting setting for fabric width - 74″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 74″ open and GSM – 310
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -1.0%, Width: -1.5%, Twisting: 1%
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability is outstanding and outlook is well
furnished.

38
14 Development Sample 13 – Bird’s Eye Polyester

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Bird’s Eye, Fabric Type: Double Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 65% Polyester+ 35% Coolmax, Fabric GSM: 150,
Yarn Description : 75D Polyester + 70D Coolmax Color: Fantom
Fabric Swatch 13:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 34″X24G, Stitch Length – 2.80+2.60
Cam Arrangement:
˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗
˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗ ˅ ˗
Π ˄ Π ˄ Π ˄ Π ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˗
˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˗
˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ Π ˄ Π ˄ Π ˄ Π ˄
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Polyester
Coolmax

Needle Arrangement:
Cylinder:
1
2 2
3

39
 Or Dial:
1
2
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 15.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 120 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 1.0 gm/l 120 gm 110°X20′
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Sequestering agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
. Soda ash 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Dispersing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Leveling agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc 130°C – 1.5°/m
BEMA NAVY 2.0 % 300 gm 130°X40′
BEMA BLUE 1.0 % 150 gm
BEMA BLACK 0.1 % 15 gm
Step 3 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 1.0 cc/l 120 cc Hot
Fixing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Step 4 – Lowering down the temperature 50-60°C at 1.5°C/m
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Cotoblance NSR 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Polyvan PAN 2 % 300 gm 40°CX40′
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 37″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 17m/min, Overfeed – 55% with width 60″ open and GSM - 148
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: 0.0%, Width: -0.05%, Twisting: 0%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 5, Wet Rub – 4-5
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 5, Color staining – 5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4-5, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability is good and outlook is good.

40
15 Development Sample 14 – Polyester Mesh

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Polyester Mesh Fabric Type: Mesh,
Fabric Composition : 94% Polyester+ 6% Lycra, Fabric GSM: 150,
Yarn Description : 75D/2 Polyester + 40D Lycra + 15D Lycra,
Color: Fantom
Fabric Swatch 14:

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 36″X24G, Stitch Length – 2.39+2.81
Cam Arrangement:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
˄ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˄ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄
˄ ˄ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˄ Π ˄ Π ˄
˄ ˄ Π ˄ Π ˄ ˄ ˄ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˗
15D Lycra

15D Lycra

40D Lycra

40D Lycra

15D Lycra

15D Lycra

Needle Arrangement:

1 1 1
2
3

41
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 15.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 120 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 1.0 gm/l 120 gm 110°X20′
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Sequestering agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
. Soda ash 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Dispersing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Leveling agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc 130°C – 1.5°/m
BEMA NAVY 2.0 % 300 gm 130°X40′
BEMA BLUE 1.0 % 150 gm
BEMA BLACK 0.1 % 15 gm
Step 3 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 1.0 cc/l 120 cc Hot
Fixing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Step 4 – Lowering down the temperature 50-60°C at 1.5°C/m
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Cotoblance NSR 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Polyvan PAN 2 % 300 gm 40°CX40′
Finishing Parameters:
Open width – 60″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 145°C, RPM- 17m/min, Overfeed – 60% with width 58″ open and GSM - 152
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: 0.5%, Width: -1.05%, Twisting: 1%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 5, Wet Rub – 4-5
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 5, Color staining – 5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4-5, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5
Comments: The fabric was heat settled at 65″ width with 190°C temperature in the stenter machine. The
fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability is good and outlook is good.

42
 16 Development Sample 15 – Polypropylene Double Jersey

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : P.P Basic Jersey Fabric Type: Double Jersey,
Fabric Composition : 50% Polyester+ 50% Polypropylene, Fabric GSM: 180,
Yarn Description : 75D Polyester + 40D Polypropylene, Color: Black
Fabric Swatch 15:

Polyester Polypropylene
Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 34″X24G, Stitch Length – 2.0+2.40+2.60+3.10
No. of active feeder – 72, Knitting machine rpm – 15,
Fabric Greige GSM-130, Greige width – 37.5″ Tube
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 15.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 120 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 1.0 gm/l 120 gm 110°X20′
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Sequestering agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
. Soda ash 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Step 2 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Dispersing agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Sequestering agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc
Anti-creasing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Leveling agent 0.8 cc/l 96 cc 130°C – 1.5°/m
BEMA YELLOW 1.0 % 150 gm 130°X40′

43
 BEMA RED 2.0 % 300 gm
BEMA BLACK 5.0 % 750 gm
Step 3 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 1.0 cc/l 120 cc Hot
Fixing agent 1.0 cc/l 120 cc
Step 4 – Lowering down the temperature 50-60°C at 1.5°C/m
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Cotoblance NSR 1.0 gm/l 120 gm
Polyvan PAN 2 % 300 gm 40°CX40′
Finishing Parameters:
Open width – 62″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 145°C, RPM- 17m/min, Overfeed – 60% with width 65″ open and GSM - 179
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: 0.0%, Width: 0.0%, Twisting: 0%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 5, Wet Rub – 5
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 5, Color staining – 5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4-5, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel with more water absorbency on polypropylene portion (range 4-
5 seconds) and as well as polyester portion (range 2-2.5 seconds), dimensional stability is good and
outlook is good.

44
17 Development Sample 16 – 3 Thread Fleece with Polyester (No brush)

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : 3 Thread Fleece (not brushed), Fabric Type: Fleece,
Fabric Composition : 80% Cotton+20% Polyester, Fabric GSM: 250,
Yarn Description : 36’Ne/1 Slub Cotton + 75D Polyester + 18’Ne/1 Cotton
Color : Light Green
Fabric Swatch 16:

Face-side Back-side
Knitting Parameters:
Yarn Arrangement: Knit – 36‟Ne/1 Slub Cotton Light Green Y/D, Binding – 75D Polyester, Loop –
20‟Ne/1 Cotton
Knitting machine description: 30″X20G, Stitch Length – Knit-4.6mm+Binding-3.2mm+Loop-2.2mm
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement: 3 track

1 2 3 4 5 6
˄ ˄ Π ˄ ˄ ˗
˄ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˄ ˗
˄ ˄ ˗ ˄ ˄ Π

45
Needle Arrangement:
1 1 1
2 2 2 2
3 3

Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 20.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 160 Liters,
Step 1 – Y/D Wash
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.5 gm/l 80 gm
Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Cotoblance Sel XCW 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 55°C X 60′
Biozym CNC 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 70°C X 10′

Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 44″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 18m/min, Overfeed – 55% with width 80″ open and GSM - 241
Compacting setting for fabric width - 79″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 79″ open and GSM – 248

Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -1.5%, Width: -1.3%, Twisting: 4%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 4-5, Wet Rub – 4
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4-5, Color staining – 4-5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4-5, Alkali- 4-5
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel, dimensional stability within tolerance and outlook is good with
visible slub effect. It has good flexibility.

46
18 Development Sample 17 – Terry Lacost

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Terry Lacoste, Fabric Type: Terry-Lacoste,
Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, Fabric GSM: 250,
Yarn Description : 26’Ne/1Cotton + 18’Ne/1 Cotton Color : Navy
Fabric Swatch 17:

Face-side Back-side
Knitting Parameters:
Yarn Arrangement: Knit – 26‟Ne/1 Cotton, Loop – 18‟Ne/1 Cotton
Knitting machine description: 30″X20G, Stitch Length – Knit-2.96mm + Loop-1.74mm
Looping Diagram:

Cam Arrangement:
˄ ˄ ˄ Π ˄ Π Π ˗
˄ Π Π ˗ ˄ ˄ ˄ ˗
˄ ˄ ˄ ˗ ˄ Π Π ˗
˄ Π Π ˗ ˄ ˄ ˄ Π
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

47
Needle Arrangement:
1 1
2 2
3 3
4 4
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 20.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 160 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.8 gm/l 128 gm
Anti-creasing agent 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Caustic 1.5 gm/l 240 cc
Stabilizer 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
H2O2 2.5 cc/l 400 cc 95°C X 20′
Step 2 – Dyeing All 40
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 55°C X 6′
Peroxide Killer 0.2 cc/l 32 cc 55°C X 6′
Biozyme CNC 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 55°C X 60′
Step 3 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Anti-creasing 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Leveling agent 1.0 cc/l 160 cc
Salt 20.0 gm/l 3200 gm
ELBO BLACK B 2.5 % 500 gm
ELBO YELLOW-3RS 0.13 % 26 gm
ELBO RED 3BSN 1.0 % 200 gm
Soda ash 6 gm/l 960 gm 80°C X 20′
Step – 4
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 0.5 cc/l 80 cc HOT
IGRASOL FL 0.4 cc/l 64 cc
Step – 5
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Neutracid NVM 0.5 cc/l 80 cc 40°CX20′
Softener 1.0 % 200 gm

48
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 36″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 18m/min, Overfeed – 55% with width 75″ open and GSM - 240
Compacting setting for fabric width - 74″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 74″ open and GSM – 251

Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -2.5%, Width: -3.0%, Twisting: 2%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 4-5, Wet Rub – 3-4
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4, Color staining – 4-5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4-5, Alkali- 4
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5

Comments: The fabric has a rush hand feel on the top side due to the design and very good overall
outlook, after wash the loop portion shaped in a twist design, dimensional stability is good. The flexibility
is rough than other Lacoste or terry fabric. Generally it is preferred to hard wear.

49
19 Development Sample 18 – Stripe Slub French Terry

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : Slub French Terry with Single Jersey inserted, Fabric Type: French Terry,
Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, Fabric GSM: 280,
Yarn Description : 34’Ne/1Cotton + 34’Ne/1 Navy Y/D Cotton + 10’Ne/1 Slub Cotton,
Color : Navy and Off-white Combo
Fabric Swatch 18:

Face-side Back-side
Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X20G,
Yarn Arrangement: 1. Terry portion- Stripe-2cm, No. of feeder – 38,
Knit-34‟Ne/1 Combed Cotton, Loop – 10‟Ne/1 Slub cotton
Stitch Length – Knit – 2.90mm, Loop – 1.30mm
2. Single Jersey portion- Stripe – 0.85cm, No. of feeder – 19,
Knit- 34’Ne/1Cotton + 34’Ne/1 Navy Y/D Cotton – Double
Stitch Length - Knit – 2.90mm

Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 20.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 160 Liters,
Step 1 – Y/D Wash
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.5 gm/l 80 gm
Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Cotoblance Sel XCW 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 55°C X 60′
Biozym CNC 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 70°C X 10′

50
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 38″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 18m/min, Overfeed – 60% with width 78″ open and GSM - 272
Compacting setting for fabric width - 77″ open
After compacting, fabric width - 77″ open and GSM – 277

Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -2.0%, Width: -3.5%, Twisting: 2%

Comments: The face side of the fabric shows some motes because in the dyeing processing no scouring
or bleaching has done. But if we used some caustic and processed with peroxide then this problem can be
recovered. The fabric has soft hand feel and dimensional stability is within tolerance.

51
20 Development Sample 19 – CVC 3 Thread Fleece Brushed
Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : 3 Thread Fleece, Fabric Type: Fleece,
Fabric Composition : 70% Cotton + 30% Polyester, Fabric GSM: 300,
Yarn Description : 26’Ne/1CVC, 75D Polyester, Color : Navy
Fabric Swatch 19:

Face-side Back-side(before brush)

Back-side(after brush)

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X20G, Stitch Length – Knit-4.20mm + Binding-3.40mm+Loop-2.0mm
Yarn Arrangement: Knit – 26‟Ne/1 CVC, Binding – 75D Polyester, Loop – 26‟Ne/2 CVC
Dyeing Parameters: (Only Cotton Part Dyed)
Fabric weight = 20.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 160 Liters,
Step 1 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.8 gm/l 128 gm
Anti-creasing agent 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Sequestering agent 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Caustic 1.5 gm/l 240 cc

52
 Stabilizer 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
H2O2 2.5 cc/l 400 cc 95°C X 20′
Step 2 – Dyeing All 40
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 55°C X 6′
Peroxide Killer 0.2 cc/l 32 cc 55°C X 6′
Biozyme CNC 1.0 cc/l 160 cc 55°C X 60′
Step 3 –
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Anti-creasing 0.5 cc/l 80 cc
Leveling agent 1.0 cc/l 160 cc
Salt 20.0 gm/l 3200 gm
ELBO BLACK B 2.5 % 500 gm
ELBO YELLOW-3RS 0.13 % 26 gm
ELBO RED 3BSN 1.0 % 200 gm
Soda ash 6 gm/l 960 gm 80°C X 20′
Step – 4
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Acetic acid 0.5 cc/l 80 cc HOT
IGRASOL FL 0.4 cc/l 64 cc
Step – 5
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Neutracid NVM 0.5 cc/l 80 cc 40°CX20′
Softener 1.0 % 200 gm
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 36″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 138°C, RPM- 18m/min, Overfeed – 60% with width 78″ open and GSM - 325
Brush setting – Full brush done on fabric‟s loop side with open width.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 16m/min, Overfeed – 60% with width 77″ open and GSM - 295
Compacting setting – 75.5” width.
After compacting, fabric width - 75″ open and GSM – 304
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -4.0%, Width: -2.5%, Twisting: 2%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 4-5, Wet Rub – 4
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4-5, Color staining – 4-5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4-5, Alkali- 4
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel on the top side and very smooth feel inside due to full brush.
Overall outlook is good. Dimensional stability is within tolerance. The flexibility is fine.

53
21 Development Sample 20 – 3 Thread Fleece Brushed

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : 3 Thread Fleece, Fabric Type: Fleece,
Fabric Composition : 90% Cotton + 10% Polyester, Fabric GSM: 240,
Yarn Description : 34’Ne/1Combed Cotton, 75D/72F Black SIM Polyester,
Color : Black
Fabric Swatch 20:

Face-side Back-side(before brush)

Back-side(after brush)

Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X20G, Stitch Length – Knit-4.20mm + Binding-3.40mm+Loop-1.5mm
Yarn Arrangement: Knit – 34‟Ne/1 CVC, Binding – 75D Black SIM Polyester, Loop – 18‟Ne/1 Cotton

Dyeing Parameters: (Only Cotton Part Dyed)

Fabric weight = 20.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 160 Liters,
BLACK WNN – 7.25 %
ELBO ORANGE F2R – 0.66%
ELBO RED 3BSN – 0.11%

54
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 37″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 138°C, RPM- 18m/min, Overfeed – 60% with width 80″ open and GSM - 260
Brush setting – Full brush done on fabric‟s loop side with open width.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 16m/min, Overfeed – 60% with width 78″ open and GSM - 227
Compacting setting – 75.5” width.
After compacting, fabric width - 75″ open and GSM – 243

Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -2.5%, Width: -1.0%, Twisting: 1%
Color fastness to rubbing (ISO – 105 – X12): Dry Rub – 4-5, Wet Rub – 4
Color fastness to wash (ISO – 105 – C06): Color Change – 4-5, Color staining – 4-5
Color fastness to perspiration (ISO – 105 – E04): Color change – Acid- 4-5, Alkali- 4
Color Staining – Acid-4-5, Alkali-4-5

Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel on the top side and very smooth feel inside due to full brush.
Overall outlook is good. Dimensional stability is within tolerance. The flexibility is very fine because of
Semi-Intermingle polyester yarn.

55
 22 Development Sample 21 – French Terry

Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : French Terry, Fabric Type: Terry,
Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, Fabric GSM: 220,
Yarn Description : 36’Ne/1Cotton (Y/D), 40’Ne/1Combed Cotton,
Color : Black
Fabric Swatch 21:

Face-side Back-side
Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X20G, Stitch Length – Knit-3.30mm + Loop-1.26mm
Yarn Arrangement: Knit – 36‟Ne/1 Black Y/D, Loop – 40‟Ne/2 Cotton
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 12.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 96 Liters,
Step 1 – Y/D Wash
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.5 gm/l 48 gm
Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 48 cc
Cotoblance Sel XCW 1.0 cc/l 96 cc 55°C X 60′
Biozym CNC 1.0 cc/l 96 cc 70°C X 10′
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 36″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 16m/min, Overfeed – 55% with width 75″ open and GSM - 210
Compacting setting – 74” width.
After compacting, fabric width - 74″ open and GSM – 218
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -2.0%, Width: -1.5%, Twisting: 1%
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel. Overall outlook is good. Dimensional stability is within
tolerance. The flexibility is fine.

56
23 Development Sample 22 – French Terry
Basic Strategies:
Fabric name : French Terry, Fabric Type: Terry,
Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, Fabric GSM: 280,
Yarn Description : 30’Ne/1Cotton (Y/D), 30’Ne/1Combed Cotton,
Color : Blue
Fabric Swatch 22:

Face-side Back-side
Knitting Parameters:
Knitting machine description: 30″X20G, Stitch Length – Knit-3.40mm + Loop-1.24mm
Yarn Arrangement: Knit – 30‟Ne/1 Blue Y/D, Loop – 30‟Ne/2 Cotton
Dyeing Parameters:
Fabric weight = 10.0 KG, M:L = 1:8
Liquor = 80 Liters,
Step 1 – Y/D Wash
Name Concentration Weight Remarks
Detergent 0.5 gm/l 40 gm
Acetic Acid 0.5 cc/l 40 cc
Cotoblance Sel XCW 1.0 cc/l 80 cc 55°C X 60′
Biozym CNC 1.0 cc/l 80 cc 70°C X 10′
Finishing Parameters:
Tube width – 38″ and slitting is done.
Stenter setting at 140°C, RPM- 16m/min, Overfeed – 55% with width 79″ open and GSM - 275
Compacting setting – 78” width.
After compacting, fabric width - 78″ open and GSM – 284
Test Reports:
Dimensional Stability (ISO – 6330): Length: -3.0%, Width: -3.5%, Twisting: 2%
Comments: The fabric has soft hand feel. Overall outlook is good. Dimensional stability is within
tolerance. The flexibility is fine. The face side shows a stripe effect.

57
 24 References:

1. J. GORDON COOK, “Handbook of TEXTILE FIBRES, VOL- I, II”

2. Dr. Md. Nazirul Islam, “APPAREL FIBERS”
3. CIBA-GEIGY, “HANDBOOK OF TEXTILE AUXILIARIES”
4. The Textile Institute Textile Terms and Definitions Committee, Professor J E McIntyre, P N
Daniels, “TEXTILE TERMS and DEFINITIONS – Tenth Edition”
5. David J Spenser, “KNITTING TECHNOLOGY – Third Edition”
6. Edward S. Olson, Volker Rossbach, “TEXTILE WET PROCESSES – VOL-I”
7. J. E. Booth, “PRINCIPLES OF TEXTILE TESTING – Third Edition”
8. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile

58
View publication stats