Robb Report
Robb Report
TRAVEL ISSUE
21 TOP TRIPS
FOR 2017
FEATURING
CARIBBEAN BLISS IN THE CAYMAN ISLANDS
SAFARI TO SAND IN TANZANIA
CUBA BY SUPERYACHT
BASKING ON BILLIONAIRE’S BEACH
RIVER TO RAILS IN PERU
MASTER CHEFS IN MELBOURNE & MORE
OLD NEW
CHASE PURSUIT
OLD NEW
STABLE HORSES
ONE CAN’T JUST BUILD
SOMETHING TRULY ITALIAN.
ONLY HISTORY CAN.
W W W. A L FA R O M E O U S A . C O M
©2016 FCA US LLC. All Rights Reserved. ALFA ROMEO is a registered trademark of FCA Group Marketing S.p.A., used with permission.
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STAY LEGENDARY
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January
CONTENTS
125 46
DEPARTMENTS
24
Editor’s Notebook
32
The Robb
Perfect 10
Our editors share their
dream trips for 2017,
70
from heli-skiing off a
yacht in Alaska and
trekking with camels in
Mongolia to an art
excursion in Cape Town
and a cross-country
70
journey by private train. Personal Best
NFL wide receiver Larry
globe-trotters goes on
safari in Zimbabwe, tastes Register
the latest in the Cape
Winelands, and checks in ON THE COVER
KIMPTON SEAFIRE RESORT &
to new hotels in New York,
SPA; PHOTOGRAPHY BY DON
Lake Como, and Oahu. RIDDLE IMAGES
ROBBREPORT.COM EXCLUSIVE
E-Tickets
66
Check out RobbReport.com for more great escapes for the
discerning traveler, including new ski chalets in Switzerland, a beachside
retreat in Anguilla, and an AMG driving experience in New Zealand.
Moving Pieces
“For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake.
The great affair is to move.” —Robert Louis Stevenson
CORRECTION: The Plasma Premium triathlon bike featured in the December 2016 issue’s “Man Up”
Ultimate Gift was designed and produced by Scott Sports (scott-sports.com).
H O T E L S T H AT D E F I N E
T H E D E S T I N AT I O N ™
Designed by visionary architect Frank O. Gehry, Hotel Marqués de Riscal features contemporary
allure in the Basque Country. Experience a curated ensemble of the world’s most iconic destinations at
The Luxury Collection hotels and resorts. Explore the collection at theluxurycollection.com
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THE ROBB
Perfect 10
January
THE DESTINATIONS OUR EDITORS ARE DREAMING ABOUT FOR 2017.
helicopter.
—BRUCE WALLIN
2 3
Ever since I’m packing my bags for New York
meeting Jochen City—this time for pleasure, not business.
Zeitz in 2013, I I’ll climb Lady Liberty’s 354 stairs, then
have been take my appetite to Midtown’s Gabriel
eagerly awaiting Kreuther (gknyc.com). My home base:
the arrival of his the InterContinental New York Barclay
Zeitz Museum of (below; intercontinentalnybarclay.com),
Contemporary whose recent renovation—restyled Gin
Art Africa Parlour included—makes clear it’s not
(zeitzmocaa just for business travelers. —LORI BRYAN
.museum).
Debuting this fall,
the Cape Town
museum will
house the world’s
largest collection
of contemporary
African art.
Perched atop the
museum, the Silo
hotel (left;
theroyalportfolio
.com) will itself
be a work of art.
—JACKIE
CARADONIO
4
The island of Koh
Samui in Thailand
tops my list for
2017, partly for its
soon-to-open
Ritz-Carlton
(ritzcarlton.com)
in the breath-
taking Choeng
Mon area. My
perfect day
would consist of
paddleboarding
between
dramatic
BOTTOM: FOTOTRAV/ISTOCK
limestone cliffs
before feasting
on a beachside
picnic of pomelo
salad with
prawns.
–JANICE O’LEARY
N
6
Scandinavia’s
) mix of rugged
t l landscapes and
S forward-
a thinking cities
f has always
y called to me.
s , This year, I’m
w dreaming of
I road-tripping
u through the
T design meccas
r of Stockholm
ll , and Copen-
u w t hagen, then
a winding my
way back up to
n t l the northern-
most tip of
t Denmark to
f stand where
i i the Baltic and
u North Seas
collide.
M —PHOEBE NEUMAN
7
I want to travel across country by
train—but not just any train. I’ll ride
TOP: SCANRAIL/ISTOCK; BOTTOM: CHARLES JASON WOLCOTT
Book today by contacting your Travel Professional, calling (808) 874-8000 or visiting
fourseasons.com/maui
The Robb Perfect 10 January
8
Mongolia’s Three C l
Camel Lodge
(threecamel t
lodge.com) is my s
perfect middle- m m
of-nowhere w
escape. Set in the l
southern Gobi e
Desert, the I
remote resort c
hosts epic
excursions on N
foot and by E l
camel through
Gegeet Valley, ( l
offering glimpses w
of Siberian ibex,
big-horned argali e u
sheep, and—if I’m c
lucky—snow r s
leopards. 2
—CAROLYN MEERS h t t
L
10
TOP: GAN-ULZII.G; MIDDLE: ALEXEY MASHTAKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM: JACKIE CARADONIO
I long to visit
Armenia—where my
roots and wanderlust
meet—to discover
everything from
ancient ruins to a
new Luxury
Collection hotel
(theluxurycollection
.com), set to debut in
the capital of Yerevan
this summer. My
first stop: the
mountainous Syunik
province, where the
ninth-century Tatev
monastery overlooks
a vast abyss from its
basalt-plateau perch.
—ANUSH BENLIYAN
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eminently useful pieces
are instant travel
upgrades.
CURATED BY
JILL NEWMAN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
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FrontRunners Machines & Gear
CHARTER CHOICE
Coral Ocean
The once-reclusive 238-foot Bannenberg design has aged gracefully.
T
he Lürssen-built Coral Island recently includes several features that were innovations 23
underwent a refit that updated some of its years ago and have since become superyacht sta-
technical systems to comply with current ples: an interior gym and spa area, a beach club at
charter standards and regulations. It also had its the stern, and a saloon with an open-air balcony.
name changed to Coral Ocean. Other than those Until last year, the vessel was used exclusively by
alterations, the 238-foot, five-deck superyacht re- its owner and kept away from any media coverage.
mains much the same as when it launched in Thus it remained Bannenberg’s secret, unseen
1994—and it’s as attractive and accommodating masterpiece. But now the secret is out, and Coral
now as it was then. This a testament to the late Ocean is on the charter market, where it promises
Jon Bannenberg’s forward-thinking design, which to be one of the most sought-after yachts. ➜
JEFF BROWN
carl-f-bucherer.com
800.395.2306
FrontRunners Machines & Gear
items. The exhibit included art from Africa and Asia that also became part of
view of the tiles that form the yacht’s the yacht’s decor. CONTACT: Burgess, burgessyachts.com
red-coral emblem.
“JEWELS
B E V E R L Y
H I L L S
•
N E W
Y O R K
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THIS SPECIAL COULD ONLY COME FROM
G O O D M A N
Martin Kat z .”
FrontRunners Machines & Gear
Q Carson, California
The recently opened Porsche Experience Center Los
Q Arjeplog, Sweden Angeles (porschedriving.com), located south of the city
This remote outpost just south of the Arctic Circle is the proper, is the West Coast counterpart to the facility that
ultimate playground for winter-driving shenanigans. It’s opened 2 years ago in Atlanta. In addition to housing the
home to numerous auto brands’ winter-driving schools, brand’s North American motorsport division, the L.A. center
including the AMG Driving Academy Winter Sporting features driving courses where you can get behind the
program (mercedes-amg.com). Lessons are conducted on wheel of a new Porsche and learn how to get out of a
a variety of configurations (including a subscale homage to tailspin and other skills. You also can explore just how fast
the Spa-Francorchamps circuit) across hundreds of acres the car accelerates, and feel the g-forces that come with
of snow and ice. On this terrain, instructors teach the finer entering a banked racetrack turn at speed.
points of power-sliding in vehicles ranging from the A45
hatchback to the mighty 503 hp GT S.
Q Manchester, Vermont
The Green Mountains offer an abundance of winter TOP: DAIMLER AG - GLOBAL COMMUNICATIONS MERCEDES-BENZ CARS
www.sunseeker.com
FrontRunners Machines & Gear
W
e’reallfamiliarwiththeinconve- provides regularly scheduled flights aboard airports’ general-aviation terminals, so
niences of commercial aviation: a 30-seat Embraer ERJ 135 between Los passengers avoid long security delays.
security lines, the interminable Angeles, San Francisco, Las Vegas, San Jose, “We’re trying to bring speed back to avia-
boarding process, cramped seating, and and Bozeman, Mt. tion,” says Alex Wilcox, the CEO of JetSuite.
often-dicey Wi-Fi service, among others. You pay no membership fees or fees for The interior of a JetSuiteX Embraer ERJ
Private flight can address these issues, but checked bags, and you can book a seat— 135 feels more like an airliner’s business-
atasteepprice.Tobridgethedividebetween online or with the company’s app—as late class section than a private jet, but it offers
the two options, the charter operator as 15 minutes before departure. The most much of what frequent fliers want, includ-
JetSuite has launched its own hybrid shut- inexpensive flight leg is $129; many cost ing Wi-Fi and beverage-and-snack service.
tle service, JetSuiteX (x.jetsuite.com). It around $200. The flights take off from the —MICHELLE SEATON
Alex Wilcox
The CEO of JetSuite speaks with Robb Report about JetSuiteX’s costs, conveniences,
and customers.
JetBlue recently made a minority equity investment in and billionaires fly commercially because they’re looking
JetSuiteX. What does this mean for the company? for value. These are basically commercial-airline fares that
This is a game changer for us. JetBlue can really help us in we charge. Our customers love us especially for short
terms of getting our product to grow. We created flights. If you are going to Tokyo, who cares about
JetSuiteX because we wanted a product that we spending an extra hour in the terminal? But if you are
TOP: CEAN ONE ST UDIOS; BOTTOM: JOEL KIMMEL
[JetSuite’s management team] could afford and that our going to San Jose, an extra hour doubles your travel time.
friends could afford. Private jets are great and fun, but
they’re not affordable for mere mortals. You note that customers have the option of booking the
entire flight. Why would someone do that?
Why would someone who is used to flying on a private jet We let you charter a 30-passenger jet for seven grand an
use JetSuiteX? Or for that matter, why would someone hour. You can charter the plane and fly from Los Angeles
who routinely charters one of JetSuite’s Phenom 300s to Tucson to watch a game, and if you fill the plane, it’s
want to use this service and fly with 29 strangers? about $250 per person there and back. We’re getting a
Some of our biggest advocates are JetSuite customers. massive amount of interest for event flights, corporate
They fly on commercial airlines routinely. Lots of millionaires flights, even destination weddings and bachelor parties.
Lofty Lair
O
ne of Napa Valley’s most location-driven labels, peaked roofline and turret, itself resembles a moun-
ironically, had no proper home for more than tain. Undaunted by the edifice’s dark interiors, Banke
two decades. When vintner Barbara Banke called in the architect Howard Backen, of Backen,
and her late husband, Jess Jackson, founded Lokoya Gillam, & Kroeger, in 2014.
(lokoya.com) in 1995, they considered one of the prop- “Howard and I first looked at each other and went,
erties that contributes to its portfolio of mountain- ‘Oh, wow, maybe not,’” says John Taft, Backen’s associ-
grown Cabernet Sauvignons as a potential winery site. ate, of his first visit. “But then we saw the concrete col-
“We always knew Lokoya would umns, capitals, and the symmetry of
be in the mountains,” says Banke. the building.”
“We had at one point considered Taft and Backen replaced the stained
building something on Mount glass with clear panes and gutted the
Veeder, but its location was almost interior to reveal its scale. A contem-
too remote.” porary glass-and-steel terrace was
During this quest, winemaker added to the eastern facade, drawing
Chris Carpenter produced wines in the sunlight and sweeping moun-
from three appellations—Mount tain and valley views.
Veeder,HowellMountain,andDia- The finished reception area, which
mond Mountain—in the winery at Cardinale Estate, can be visited by appointment only, is at once expansive
which he also oversees. But the addition in 2005 of a and intimate. “The space can host multiple groups with-
fourth, Spring Mountain, led Banke and team to inves- out having anyone feel as though they’re on top of each
tigate the acreage in this district that would at last other,” says Taft. “This is the highest level of hospitality.”
become Lokoya’s base. “We noticed the vineyards For Banke, the winery is an embodiment of the wines
first,” she says. “Then the winery caught our eye.” themselves. “It’s sleek and modern in a classic struc-
The building, constructed in the 1960s, is a mam- ture,” she says. “It is sophisticated but has strength as
moth assemblage of raw-stone masonry that, with its well, much like Lokoya.” —BRETT ANDERSON
entrepreneur Andrew Meieran. “I’ve always been 1 oz. fresh house-made orgeat syrup
fascinated by Polynesian culture,” says Meieran, ½ oz. dry curaçao
2 dashes simple syrup
“and by that golden era of exploration and adven-
1 dash Angostura bitters
ture, where suddenly the world opened up.” ½ oz. cream sherry
Exploration is personified at Pacific Seas in its Shake all ingredients except the cream sherry
tiki cocktails, which include the legendary rum- in a cocktail shaker with crushed ice and pour
and-gin-based Fog Cutter. It is a matter of dispute unstrained into a tiki mug. Trickle the cream
as to whether the concoction was invented in sherry on top as a float and garnish with
mint. Serve with a paper bamboo straw so
Hollywood during the 1930s by Don the Beach-
that the sherry has time to gradually settle
comber’s bartender Tony Ramos or in Oakland, into the drink as you sip.
Calif., in the 1940s by “Trader Vic” Bergeron.
Either way, Bergeron’s explanation for the origin of the cocktail’s
name still stands: “Fog Cutter—hell, after two of these you won’t
even see the stuff.” —RICHARD CARLETON HACKER
T E R R A N E A C O M |
FrontRunners Taste
Capital Eats
The center of the emerging mid-Atlantic cuisine, Washington, D.C.,
is now on the map as a true dining destination.
S
ince the turn of the century, the nation’s capi- are often prepared with an international flair.
tal has become known not only as a United “I moved here in 2008,” says Michael Santoro, the
Nations of menus but also for developing its executive chef at Kingbird in the city’s Watergate
own distinctive food style—dubbed mid-Atlantic Hotel and a devotee of cast-iron cooking, “and in the
cuisine—which was acknowledged by Michelin last years since, the food scene has just exploded.” While
fall with the publication of its first guide for the acclaimed chefs such as Daniel Boulud have exported
city. The concept employs local ingredients, such as their brands to D.C. (2 years ago he opened DBGD
Chesapeake Bay seafood, Virginia beef, Pennsylva- Kitchen and Bar), the true landmarks on the culinary
nia mushrooms, and Maryland produce, and they map seem to be homegrown. —ROGER MORRIS
SIGNATURE: Locally sourced ingredients SIGNATURE: A whimsical and theatrical SIGNATURE: A playful, inventive menu that
such as blue crab, rockfish, and pawpaws, approach, such as roasted-potato ice cream can run beyond 20 courses and may include
with a French influence. Expect to see dishes or fluke with “scales” of paper-thin grape a meringue that tastes like corn on the cob or
like John Dory draped in caviar, quince, and slices. But the show ($250 in all for beverage tapioca-and-ham croquettes. The adventure
salsify, or a squash velouté with spiced and food pairings) does not overshadow can cost $500 per guest and has become a
marshmallow, huckleberry, and crispy sage. the delights of the palate. bucket-list experience for gourmands.
“Mid-Atlantic cuisine is really wide open. It “We are influenced and inspired by people, “Terroir is important in ethnic cooking.
pulls mostly from Appalachia, the South, places, and food from all over the world. Plus Spain is in my DNA. I may use local
and the Chesapeake Bay. Extremely fertile That’s not to say we don’t love our zucchini from Maryland, but my customers
RIGHT: GO KATE SHOOT
land yields an array of produce, both foraged Chesapeake blue crabs and such.” expect jamón ibérico and Manchego
and farmed, year round.” —Michael Santoro —Aaron Silverman cheese.” —José Andrés
(thewatergatehotel.com) (pineappleandpearls.com) (minibarbyjoseandres.com)
JETSUITE.COM
S O U
Y O U
T H A
F LY I N
M O V E
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TODD REED
toddreed.com | 800.376.3609
THE MOORINGS
moorings.com/RobbReport | 800.669.6529
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Passport
Go Now
THERE’S AN UNOFFICIAL MOTTO in Zimbabwe that says, “Everything that flies has to
land.” The adage seems particularly fitting these days, as the southern African country—
which for years has been plagued by political repression, economic hardship, and rampant
poaching—is at last making a return to the safari circuit. “We are seeing tourism that we
just didn’t see 4 or 5 years ago,” says Henrietta Loyd, founder and co-owner of the UK-based
travel company Cazenove + Loyd (cazloyd.com). The influx is due in part to new antipoaching
efforts, which have resulted in the return of wildlife and, with it, Zimbabwe’s world-
Chef Heinz Reitbauer’srenowned safari guides. “There is also more investment coming back to the country,” Loyd
Steirereck restaurant says, citing new and renovated lodges as well as infrastructure improvements such as the
recently opened international terminal at Victoria Falls Airport. Indeed, one of Africa’s
original safari destinations is finally coming in for a landing—and tempting a new
generation of travelers to do the same. —LAURIE WERNER
Go Now
Chasing Waterfalls
The roar and spray of Victoria Falls can be heard
and seen from miles away. The waterfall—known
to the local Kalolo-Lozi people as Mosi-oa-Tunya,
or “the smoke that thunders”—is the largest cur-
tain of falling water in the world, measuring a mile
wide and flowing at a rate of up to 165 million gal-
lons per minute. Four of the waterfall’s five chasms
lie within Zimbabwe’s borders (the fifth is in
Zambia), and even during the driest months of
the year water flows forcefully. For the best
views of this natural wonder, Cazenove + Loyd’s
Henrietta Loyd recommends chartering the
Bushtracks Express (gotothevictoriafalls.com), a
steam train that crosses the Victoria Falls Bridge
while guests sip sundowners. More adventurous
guests can get a bird’s-eye vantage via helicopter
or even bungee cord.
plementing their stays in luxury lodges with if you pass, take a grueling, 5-day
a night or two on a mobile safari. What the exam that tests every aspect of
portable lodges lack in creature comforts— training, from having to shoot a
no swimming pools, terraces, or soaking dangerous animal in a simulated
BOTTOM LEFT: VILLIERS STEYN/GALLO IMAGES/GETT Y IMAGES;
Grand Opening
Como Contemporary
MODERN MILAN came to Lake Como last summer with the
August debut of Il Sereno Lago di Como (ilsereno.com).
Designed by the Milan-based Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola,
the 30-room hotel is a contemporary observatory nestled among
the rocks and leaning over the lake’s shores. Inside, colorful
furniture, fabrics, and details—much of it designed by Urquiola
herself—complement floor-to-ceiling vistas of the water and
surrounding mountains. The views can also be enjoyed while
sipping Pimm’s on the sleek terrace or taking a dip in the infinity-
edge pool. Should the modern style prove too anachronistic for
Como purists, Urquiola has also helped create a Renaissance-
style alternative at Villa Pliniana (villapliniana.com), Il Sereno’s
restored 16th-century estate located just 5 minutes away by Riva
speedboat. Adorned with restored frescoes and Venetian floors,
the exclusive-use property is old-school Como with just the
right amount of modern Milanese style. —SARA MAGRO
www.aaronbasha.com
Follow us on instagram @aaronbasha
Passport
R&R in NYC
Six new spots to hit the sack in
the City That Never Sleeps.
The Lowell • The Upper East Side just got
cooler thanks to this 74-room hotel’s
recent renovation featuring interiors by
Michael S. Smith and a restaurant by
Charles Masson and Christian Delouvrier.
lowellhotel.com
QP à Équation
White gold case
Grand Opening
Oahu Oasis
OAHU’S KO OLINA has been a resting place for Hawaiian chiefs
and royals since King Kamehameha—the founding father of the
Kingdom of Hawaii—made it his preferred retreat in the 18th cen-
tury. With the opening of the Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko
Olina (fourseasons.com) last May, the storied western shoreline is
welcoming a new generation of pleasure-seekers. The beachfront
property (set on the former site of the JW Marriott Ihilani Ko Olina
Resort & Spa) is awash in modern Hawaiian style, with banana-leaf
headboards and private lanais in the 371 rooms and suites. Outside
their rooms, guests can feast on “loco moco” for breakfast and fresh
catches for dinner in the four restaurants, as well as relax at four
swimming pools and play golf at the neighboring Ko Olina Golf
Club. The most royal of retreats, however, is the 35,000-square-foot
Naupaka Spa, which offers Hawaiian-inspired healing therapies in
breezy oceanfront treatment huts. —SUSAN B. BARNES
ANALJIT SINGH first came to Franschhoek within an old Cape Dutch guesthouse on revamped—though mostly unchanged, to
on a whim. In 2010 the Indian billionaire, Franschhoek’s charming main street, the relief of their longstanding clientele.
who was visiting South Africa as a spectator Huguenot Road. The property was just the Partnering with the Swartland masters of
TOP: CHRISTIAN HORAN PHOTOGRAPHY
at the FIFA World Cup, took a side trip to beginning for Singh, who last year launched Syrah, Mullineux, Singh has created the
the Cape Winelands—and fell hard and fast Leeu Estates, a 17-room luxury resort fea- super-winery Mullineux & Leeu Family
for the vineyard-lined town. Seven years turing a world-class art collection and South Wines; next door to Leeu House sits the
later, he has created an assemblage of local Africa’s first Ila spa. The Leeu Collection group’s TukTuk microbrewery. Most recently,
hotels, wineries, and more that makes up has also acquired the wine country’s most the Leeu Collection has opened an homage
his Leeu Collection (leeucollection.com). beloved jewel, the Le Quartier Français hotel to Singh’s first home, an Indian restaurant.
The group’s grand debut came with the 2015 and its famed Tasting Room restaurant, And up next is an art gallery, set to debut on
opening of Leeu House, a 12-room hotel set which have both been refreshed and Huguenot Road next month. —J.C.
“World’s Best ”
– Travel + Leisure, 877.660.9895 | SanctuaryAZ.com | Scottsdale, AZ
2008 –2015
Personal Best T H E R O B B I N T E RV I E W
Larry Fitzgerald
The NFL superstar is turning his off-season
passion into a roving venture.
LARRY FITZGERALD HAS a flair for racking up big numbers. Throughout his 12-season NFL
career, the nine-time Pro Bowl wide receiver has set more than a few records, including becom-
ing the youngest player ever with 1,000 receptions (at 32 years old). But he is equally proud of a
figure he has accomplished off the field: visiting nearly 100 countries. The athlete spends his
off-season searching the globe for adventure, from tracking gorillas in Rwanda to ice climbing
in Slovenia. Now he is spreading his wanderlust with the creation of a new travel outfitter, Nomad
Hill. Robb Report spoke with Fitzgerald in Arizona to discuss his budding business, his favorite
moments abroad, and what’s next on his list. —MARGIE GOLDSMITH
When did you first develop a taste for Tell us about Nomad Hill. How did your
travel? passion become a business?
When I was a child, my family traveled a lot I met David Jones many years ago when he was
domestically, whether it was road trips to vice president of [the luxury outfitter] Ker &
Yellowstone or California. But even at home, Downey. I started traveling with him and found
we would travel with cuisine. It was Vietnamese that we have many similarities, especially in
or sushi or Korean barbecue or Mongolian. It terms of our enthusiasm for travel and new
got me thinking a lot about different cultures, experiences. We were traveling to the Siwa
and it opened up a little window for me. Just Oasis in Egypt, and we talked about working
that small glimpse opened my eyes and ulti- together. Two years later we started Nomad
mately inspired my love for travel. Hill, which launched last June.
The Nomad name resonated with us and also
How would you describe your personal with my age group, Millennials. Those are the
travel style? people we’re trying to attract, because they
I like to travel solo. Going by yourself gets you want to get out and experience the world before
out of your comfort zone and forces you to meet they settle down. Nomad Hill gives them more
and interact with the locals. And going alone opportunities to explore their passion for travel.
challenges me because I’m forced to learn a
few words so I can communicate with the locals. You describe Nomad Hill as a “travel
I don’t really need anything grandiose or too designer.” What does that mean?
fancy in terms of my accommodations. I’d rather We design a trip custom-made for you and
spend the money on being able to do something your desires, similar to going to a great tailor
BRUCE YEUNG
that I’ll never forget, such as going on a gorilla and asking for a bespoke suit. For instance, if
trek in Rwanda. I’d much rather spend the you have a passion for photography or out-
money on something that’s really, really cool. door activities, we design a trip around that
Please inquire about our “fly free” and “Stay & Save” offers.
Photo : Tim McKenna -
[email protected] thebrando.com
THE TOP
21 TRIPS
FOR 2017.
From an around-the-world culinary crusade to a
Maldivian surfing safari, Robb Report presents the most
exciting jaunts, journeys, and adventures for the year ahead.
River to Rails
in Peru.
1
No. FOR ITS MIX of ancient and contemporary
culture, Andean and Amazonian adventure,
Peru has been a popular pick on top-destination lists
for the better part of a decade. This year, however, the
South American country is simply not to be missed,
with new luxury options that are making it easier than
ever to explore its varied riches—by river, by rail, and
by trail.
Make the mighty Amazon your starting point, with a
4-night cruise aboard Aqua Expeditions’ newly refur-
bished Aria Amazon (aquaexpeditions.com). The 16-suite
vessel ventures along the legendary river and its black-
TOP: BRUCE WALLIN
Cuba
from Sand
to City.
No. 3 THIS IS A golden moment in Cuban history—
one in which the thaw has begun, but the long-
isolated country has yet to be forever changed. Seeing it
all now is imperative. And though a stampede of hotel
chains is waiting in the wings to make a mad rush at
development, there is only one surefire way to see the
entire country in high luxury right now: Hop aboard the Foodie Frenzy
superyacht St. David (stdavidyacht.co.uk; available
through Cuba Educational Travel, cubaeducationaltravel
.com) for a 7-night itinerary from Havana to Cayo Santa
in Melbourne.
Maria and back. The journey—which is bookended by
two vibrant nights in the capital city, where passengers
can soak in the local flavor at landmarks like the historic
No.
5 MELBOURNE ALREADY HAS one of the most
exciting food-and-wine scenes in the world, but
Hotel Saratoga—will drop anchor among unspoiled man- for a week in April, it will become the center of the culi-
groves and coral reefs from Bahía de Cabañas to Cayo nary universe. The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards
Jutías. While at sea or in port, St. David offers plenty of (theworlds50best.com) will bring the most prominent FOR A WEEK
diversions with six staterooms, three decks, an outdoor chefs from around the globe to the Australian city for IN APRIL,
MELBOURNE
cinema, a water-sports center, and a clubby lounge where the 2017 ceremony—and the public is invited to join in WILL BECOME
the Cuba libres and mojitos will no doubt flow well into the festivities. The main awards presentation will be THE CENTER
the wee hours. —JACKIE CARADONIO held at the Royal Exhibition Building on April 5. Events OF THE
open to the public include panels featuring chefs CULINARY
Massimo Bottura of the current No. 1 restaurant Osteria UNIVERSE.
Francescana in Modena, Italy, and Daniel Humm of the
No. 3 restaurant Eleven Madison Park in New York.
VIP tickets will be available for some of the week’s
activities, with opportunities for one-on-one time with
emu egg at
50 Best luminaries David Thompson and Gastón Acurio. Melbourne’s
For the full immersion, stay at the official 50 Best lodg- Attica, the current
ing, the new QT Melbourne (qthotelsandresorts.com), No. 33 restaurant
in the world.
where amenities include a restaurant from former
Rockpool chef Paul Easson and a shop selling hand-
made Japanese knives. —M.B.
Sprucing Up
Santorini.
No.
6 SCATTERED ABOVE THE lapis-lazuli waters
of the Aegean Sea, Santorini’s whitewashed
in October on 2 acres high above the sea. The all-inclusive
villa, which sleeps 14 guests in four suites, promises
resorts are an almost clichéd picture of paradise. But it pampering and privacy at every turn with a wine cellar,
appears even paradise can be improved upon, as several a personal chef, a yoga pavilion, a spa, an outdoor cinema,
new and recently renovated retreats on the fabled Greek an infinity-edge pool, and excursions that include sailing
isle are giving new life to the caldera-top experience. RETREATS ON and archaeological tours. —KATHRYN ROMEYN
Travelers returning to the 21-room Grace Santorini THE GREEK
ISLE ARE
(gracehotels.com) this season will find the hideaway
GIVING NEW
immaculately restyled, with contemporary interiors
punctuated by Greek Statuario marble and punches of
LIFE TO THE
CALDERA-TOP
EXPERIENCE.
Come Back
purple and baby blue. The resort is also set to debut an
extensive spa and wellness facility and two sprawling to the Cayman
suites with private plunge pools and terraces. Nearby,
the new Cavo Tagoo Hotel Santorini (cavotagoo.com)
is bringing a trendy vibe to local barefoot luxury with 13
Above:
The newly
Islands.
renovated Grace
7
breezy suites adorned with minimalist furnishings, a
Santorini.
sweeping pool deck with floating daybeds, and a sleek No. See “Paradise Restored,” page 96.
SERGE DETALLE
F LY YO U R W AY
SEARCH TODAY ON STRATAJET.COM
+1 844 235 6248
Moving On Up
in Lower
Manhattan.
CHRISTIAN HORAN; OPPOSITE, TOP: JAIDEEP OBEROI; BOTTOM: JACKIE CARADONIO
No.
8 LOWER MANHATTAN HAS traditionally
been a spot for suits and tourists (and tourist
Court building into the Beekman, a Thompson Hotel
(thompsonhotels.com). Opened in September, the
traps) but lately, going downtown—way downtown— property was an instant hit, both for its velvet-and-
has a new air of cool. The all-the-way-south neighbor- crystal décor and its restaurants by Tom Colicchio and
hood stretching from Chambers Street to the bottom Keith McNally.
of the island has found itself in the midst of a micro- LOWER Just opposite City Hall Park is Lower Manhattan’s lat-
Renaissance, becoming an of-the-moment district where MANHATTAN est reason to look up and check in: Robert A. M. Stern’s
celebrity chefs, luxury hotels, and world-class architects HAS FOUND 82-story 30 Park Place (thirtyparkplace.com), which
ITSELF IN
are elevating the scene. THE MIDST opened in September, houses a collection of over-the-top
First came the social-media catnip of architect Santiago OF A MICRO- condominiums and the slick 189-room Four Seasons
Calatrava’s awe-inspiring Oculus (panynj.gov), a sculp- RENAISSANCE. Hotel New York Downtown (fourseasons.com). The
tural shopping center featuring high-end shops like latter, Manhattan’s second Four Seasons–branded prop-
Salavatore Ferragamo, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Tom erty, brings with it an outpost of Wolfgang Puck’s steak
Ford. Next it was interior designer Martin Brudnizki’s house Cut with a sultry scarlet lounge where stylish New
turn to add some edge to the buttoned-up neighbor- Yorkers—and yes, suits and tourists—mingle every night
hood, revamping Beekman Street’s historic Temple of the week. —J.C.
Around-the-World
Food Flight.
No. 9 GASTRONOMES, GET READY: This May, TCS
World Travel is sending 52 wayfaring foodies on
the trip of a lifetime. Designed in collaboration with René
Redzepi—the chef of Copenhagen’s Noma restaurant and
founding father of New Nordic cuisine—the 19-day Around-
the-World Culinary Journey (tcsworldtravel.com) begins
with 3 days in Seoul before carrying on to eight more palate-
pleasing destinations across Europe and Asia. The itinerary
for the trip (priced from $135,000 per person) features far
more than just memorable meals. In Tokyo, travelers can
take a sushi-making class with a local master and forage
the countryside with chef Shinobu Namae of the Michelin-
starred L’Effervescence. A stop in Florence offers lessons
with a fifth-generation Tuscan butcher; in Paris, it’s a
Champagne-and-oyster-fueled cruise across the Seine; and
in Copenhagen, Redzepi will give travelers behind-the-
scenes access to his legendary kitchen. Throughout the
journey, passengers will travel aboard TCS’s private 52-seat
Boeing 757 and stay in Four Seasons hotels and resorts.
—SANDRA RAMANI
From Savanna to
Sea in Tanzania.
No.10 THE SAFARI/BEACH combo has hit a new high
in Tanzania. The East African country—lauded
both for its wildlife conservancies and for its Indian
Ocean islands—has new luxury options on both fronts.
Asilia upped the safari game in the Ngorongoro Conservation
Area with the opening of Highlands (asiliaafrica.com; Opposite:
available through Scott Dunn, scottdunn.com), an eight- Four Seasons
Hotel New York
tent camp set on the slopes of the extinct Olmoti volcano.
Downtown. This
The lodge’s Plexiglas domes are a brilliant departure from page, from top:
traditional safari accommodations, maximizing views Mumbai, one
of the crater below and the starry night skies above. Asilia’s of nine cities on
excursions are also a break from the norm: In addition to the Around-the-
World Culinary
the usual Ngorongoro game drives, the camp offers hikes
Journey; Asilia’s
to other craters, far removed from the tourist buzz. Shortly Highlands safari
after Asilia’s launch, the eight-bedroom Entamanu lodge in Tanzania.
Ngorongoro (nomad-tanzania.com) made its debut on a
secluded perch along Ngorongoro’s rim, giving luxury-
seekers another chance to spy wildlife from on high.
Meanwhile, post-safari respite can be found at the new
Thanda Island (thandaisland.com), a 20-acre exclusive-use
retreat within the Shunyimbili Island Marine Reserve. —J.C.
Quiet Time
in the Yucatán.
No.11 THE MEGARESORTS OF Mexico’s Riviera
Maya are making way for more intimate options
up and down the region’s sparkling Caribbean coastline.
Hotel Esencia (hotelesencia.com) underwent an inspired
renovation after its acquisition by the American art col-
lector Kevin Wendle, emerging with 29 art- and light-
filled rooms located along what is arguably the area’s best
beach. The update included the addition of two villas that Right: Crystal
have their own private stretches of sand and can together Esprit takes
passengers to the
accommodate groups from eight to 22 people. New villas
Eden-like beaches
are also taking shape at Rosewood Mayakoba (rosewood of the Seychelles
hotels.com), which in November added eight multi- islands. Below,
bedroom residences—ranging from 8,000 to 20,000 from top: Andaz
square feet—to its collection of 130 lagoon and oceanfront Mayakoba; Hotel
Esencia.
suites. Just next door, Andaz Mayakoba (andaz.hyatt
.com) was scheduled at press time for an end-of-2016
debut. The 214-room resort, which is set on 590 acres of
beach and jungle, includes 41 suites with plunge pools.
Those in need of a break after all that beach and pool
time can head inland to the new Chablé (chableresort
.com), a 40-villa, 750-acre destination spa where “shaman-
ism meets luxury” in the jungle outside Mérida. —B.W.
Setting Sail in
the Seychelles.
No.12 THERE’S A NEW WAY to experience the
Seychelles islands—and it’s 65 feet underwater.
Seated in a U-Boat C Explorer 3, travelers can venture
below the Indian Ocean’s surface, scuttling alongside neon
fusiliers and black-and-white-striped sergeant majors.
The flying-saucer-like submersible darts in and out of
coral clusters and speeds past streaks of pink, blue, and
green before returning to the mothership: Crystal Cruises’
new Crystal Esprit (crystalcruises.com).
Long a leader in luxury ocean cruising, Crystal ushered
in a new era with last winter’s launch of the Esprit. The
yacht is part of an ambitious plan that calls for every-
thing from riverboats in Europe to a private jet for around-
the-world journeys. The 31-suite Esprit—which will
spend January through March island-hopping in the
Seychelles—embodies Crystal’s new direction, offering of ports render its islands mostly inaccessible to larger
an experience more akin to that of a charter yacht than ships. But the seascape is no hindrance to the Esprit,
an all-inclusive ocean liner. There is Château Lafite whose 9.8-foot draft allows it to anchor in the shallow
Rothschild in the wine cellar, butler service for every waters off even the smallest isles.
spacious stateroom, and, of course, plenty of high-tech The lithe vessel is never long at sea on a typical itinerary, CRYSTAL
water toys like the U-Boat submersible at the ready. A zipping from isle to isle. On the island of Curieuse, pas- USHERED IN
staff of 91 takes care of a total of just 62 guests, facilitat- sengers can plant trees as part of Crystal’s reforestation A NEW ERA
ing everything from outings on the yacht’s cherry-red project. On the private nature reserve of Aride Island, they WITH LAST
WINTER’S
Wider 32 tender to Champagne-and-caviar lunches. can climb to a high granite peak while dozens of frigate LAUNCH OF
That Esprit is setting sail in the Seychelles—a 115-island birds circle overhead. And off of Big Sister Island, they can THE ESPRIT.
TOP: JACKIE CARADONIO
nation located some 1,000 miles off the east coast of snorkel along an expansive reef alive with parrot fish, blue-
Africa—is a by-product of not only Crystal’s new focus and-yellow surgeonfish, and striped clown tangs. Of course,
but also the yacht’s nimble size. The country’s isolated the most compelling view of this underwater world is from
setting in the middle of the Indian Ocean makes it a rare the passenger seat of the U-Boat C Explorer 3—a vantage
stop on any cruise itinerary, and its small coves and lack reserved exclusively for Esprit guests. —LAURIE KAHLE
The bakes, and other local dishes pair with a truly Finnish
amenity: The restaurant is located within a bold new
View the TOURBILLON – THREE and all of our luxury watchwinders at orbita.com.
TOP21 TRIPS FOR 2017
Abu Dhabi’s
New State of Art.
No.
15 ABU DHABI HAS been hard at work refining
its image. Amid the dizzying array of glitz and
Joining the outpost of Paris’s beloved institution on
Saadiyat will be Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Abu Dhabi,
glamour in the city, an unprecedented art scene is emerging ABU DHABI Norman Foster’s Zayed National Museum, and the late
as part of a master plan to make it a world capital of culture. IS GOING FOR Zaha Hadid’s Performing Arts Centre. Works from the
In true Emirati fashion, Abu Dhabi is going for broke in
BROKE IN Guggenheim’s permanent collection are already on exhibit
BUILDING
building a cache of new museums and performing-arts A CACHE at the nearby Manarat Al Saadiyat cultural center.
centers. Central to the plan is Saadiyat Island (saadiyat OF NEW The high-minded initiative appears to be catching,
culturaldistrict.ae), an estimated $27 billion isle that will MUSEUMS AND with luxury hotels like the Rosewood Abu Dhabi (rose
soon be home to the Louvre Abu Dhabi (louvreabudhabi PERFORMING- wood.com) and Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al
.ae). The Jean Nouvel–designed masterpiece, scheduled
ARTS Maryah Island (fourseasons.com) investing heavily in
CENTERS .
to debut this year, will showcase a collection of more than private collections of their own. The latter property,
RICHARD DAVIES
300 works ranging from a 16th-century sculpture of a which opened in October, displays more than 2,000 works
wounded Christ to Picasso’s rarely exhibited Portrait of Above: Zayed ranging from pop art to paintings of Abu Dhabi’s forever-
a Lady, beneath a spaceship-like dome of woven steel. National Museum. in-flux skyline. —JILL K. ROBINSON
Uruguay
for Asado
and Tannat.
No.
16 THE LAND OF Tannat may finally be having fee, allows members to blend their own vintages.
its moment. Like Chile and Argentina before Mallmann is no stranger to these parts, having opened
it, Uruguay has gradually emerged as a first-rate food- his own restaurant and hotel just 7 miles away in 2004.
and-wine destination, a process that peaked last March
BODEGA Last year, the chef renovated his estancia-style Hotel
GARZÓN IS
with the debut of Bodega Garzón (bodegagarzon.com). TAKING Garzón (restaurantegarzon.com), offering diners who
Owned by the Argentine billionaire Alejandro Bul- URUGUAY’S make the pilgrimage for his spectacular asado cuisine a
gheroni, the high-tech winery takes Uruguay’s little-known LITTLE- comfortable place to spend the night. Farther north, in
varietals, chief among them the national grape of KNOWN the town of Salto, the Swiss hotelier Peter Wirth (whose
Tannat, to new levels. The $100 million project, which
VARIETALS résumé includes New York City’s Waldorf Astoria Towers
TO NEW
includes a restaurant by fellow Argentine Francis LEVELS . and Rome’s Hotel Hassler) opened Casa Wirth (casa
Mallmann, is located in rural Garzón, roughly 30 miles wirth.com) in July. The colonial mansion on the banks
north of the coastal resort of José Ignacio. It is garnering of the Uruguay River is home to just five guest rooms and
attention as much for its estate-grown wines and olive an outdoor restaurant specializing in asados.
oils as for its exclusive wine club, which, for a $180,000 —NELL MCSHANE WULFHART
Class of
the Caribbean.
No.
19 IF THE CELEBRITY playground of Mustique
isn’t exclusive enough for you, it’s time to try CANOUAN IS
Estate Villas & Residences (canouan-estate.com), a
luxury community covering two-thirds of the 3-square-
POISED TO
Canouan. The Caribbean upstart, located roughly 17 miles mile island and featuring a Jim Fazio–designed golf course,
BECOME ONE
southwest of Mustique in St. Vincent and the Grenadines, OF THE four restaurants, and a clutch of villas available for rent.
is poised to replace its better-known neighbor as the coun- CARIBBEAN’S Ensuring that jet-setters arrive in style is a newly expanded
try’s elite isle. In October, the long-awaited Pink Sands ELITE ISLES. 5,900-foot-long runway that can accommodate private
Club (pinksandsclub.com) debuted on Godahl Beach with aircraft as large as a Boeing 737. For those wishing to make
32 over-the-top suites and villas. The rose-hued resort sits Above: The pool at their Canouan arrival via yacht, an 80-berth marina is
L ARSEN COLLINGE
at the heart of the island’s recently launched Canouan Canouan Estate’s set to debut later this year. —SARAH GREAVES-GABBADON
Beach House.
Obtain the Property Report required by Federal law and read it before signing anything. No Federal agency has judged the merits
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TOP21 TRIPS FOR 2017
Zurich’s
New Cool. Top: Taj Safaris’
Meghauli Serai.
Above: Saltz at the
Dolder Grand.
No.
21 ZURICH, THE SWISS city known for finance of Switzerland’s most important postwar modernist
and buttoned-up formality, is loosening its tie buildings. The Los Angeles–based firm Hirsch Bedner
and showing its edgy side. Leading the way in the city’s Associates adorned the interiors of the Y-shaped struc-
cooldown are new and established hotels that are break- ture with furnishings by Patricia Urquiola, Armani/
ing with stuffy traditions. Among the unorthodox new- Casa, and Brabbu; outside, a swimming pool at the foot
THE SWISS
comers is Kameha Grand Zürich (kamehagrand CITY of the Üetliberg mountain offers a laidback spot for a
zuerich.com), an Autograph Collection hotel that opened KNOWN FOR swim. Zurich’s legendary Dolder Grand has also joined
in 2015 in the emerging Glattpark district. Conceived by FINANCE IS the movement with the debut of its Saltz restaurant
the design world’s enfant terrible, Marcel Wanders, the LOOSENING (thedoldergrand.com), a vibrant red-and-blue venue
ITS TIE.
TOP: JACKIE CARADONIO
hotel is a veritable wonderland of avant-garde style, fea- designed by the artist Rolf Sachs. And bringing a modern
turing cheeky nods to Swiss culture such as lamps that edge to Old Town is the Marktgasse Hotel (marktgasse
resemble oversize cow bells and sofas shaped like giant hotel.ch), a 39-room boutique property blending Scan-
Toblerone bars. Last spring, the 95-room Atlantis by dinavian minimalism and Italian maximalism in a pair
Giardino (atlantisbygiardino.ch) made its debut in one of 15th-century structures. —J.C.
BY BRETT ANDERSON
W
ITHIN THE WALLS of the gar-
den, nature quietly reigns. Beyond
the coiled roots of trees and tan-
gled greenery, falling water is
audible, and only the most atten-
tive ear can discern the presence of an occasional passing
automobile. Despite its primordial air, this oasis has been
expensively cultivated for the pleasure of its owners, who,
when in residence, occupy a villa concealed in the dis-
tance behind battalions of blossoms and imposing exam-
ples of a curious form of flora known as a sausage tree,
from which depend heavy, tubular, dun-colored fruit.
“They stink when you cut them open,” notes the gardener.
Adorned in a straw hat and Hawaiian shirt, this gentle-
man conducts me along the winding paths of this private
paradise. When I ask him if it’s a native plant, he laughs.
“It’s from Africa,” he replies. “I guess the hippos like them.”
Nothing, I have learned since my arrival in the Cayman
Islands, seems to be from here. Uninhabited until the 17th
century, when motley assortments of passengers from
military, merchant, and mercenary vessels alike began to
➜
visit their shores, these minute landmasses were not prop- familiarity. The streets of George Town could have
erly settled until the early 1700s. Over time, the population belonged to a South Florida suburb, save for the fact that
of primarily African and Anglo-Saxon descent gradually the drivers sat on their vehicles’ right-hand sides. Having
This page and expanded to include dozens of different nationalities. been buffeted in flight by the winds of Hurricane Matthew,
previous spread: When I landed on Grand Cayman several days before, which then roared toward the United States, I was sur-
The Ritz-Carlton
I didn’t know what to expect of my inaugural visit to prised by the normalcy of the scene.
Grand Cayman.
this British territory famed as a tax haven and bastion “We have been lucky since Ivan,” said Marc Langevin,
of international banking. Beautiful beaches, yes, but who greeted me at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman. A
what else? On departing the airport, however, I was Frenchman by birth, Langevin serves as general man-
greeted by something entirely unexpected: a sense of ager of the first true luxury resort on Seven Mile Beach,
the island’s most popular strip of coastline. We talked of
the devastating 2004 hurricane while he escorted me to
my accommodations, the 8,000-square-foot Grand
Cayman Penthouse. It is a three-bedroom rooftop com-
plex that includes a screening room, a chef’s kitchen,
and a breathtaking wraparound terrace with a 180-degree
vista of blindingly blue water. He described to me the
impact of the storm, which had been the worst to hit the
islands in more than eight decades. Though Ivan flat-
THIS PAGE AND PREVIOUS SPREAD: DON RIDDLE
while handwoven rope accents and a blue catboat—a zon. We wanted a modern expression of the Caribbean.”
traditional Caymanian fishing vessel—suspended from Lee and his associates rendered a series of spaces
PARK
Coming Soon Coming Soon
that flow seamlessly, blending sea and sunlight. The leave behind the comforts of the Ritz-Carlton and Kimpton
8,500-square-foot spa, for example, though located below Seafire to immerse myself in a different ambience.
the lobby level, is flooded with natural light. A breezeway Cayman Brac’s massive limestone bluff, which rises
from the reception area leads to Ave, the Seafire’s primary 140-plus feet above sea level, lends the island the appear-
Above: Le Soleil restaurant, which, under the direction of the resort’s ance of a floating fortress—a characteristic that, along
d’Or—a farm with executive chef, Massimo De Francesca, combines imported with its caves and springs, made it a favorite rest stop
a boutique resort
and locally sourced ingredients to create a menu that for pirates, who quenched their thirst with fresh water
and spa—sits on a
rustic beachfront.
captures the island’s multicultural personality. The inte- and feasted on turtles and iguanas.
Right: Some of rior offers casual seating areas around the bar, while I, too, was there for food and drink, though of a consid-
the inhabitants of the seats at the counter of the open erably more refined caliber. Le Soleil
Grand Cayman’s kitchen belong to Avecita, a restaurant d’Or, situated on a rustic beachfront,
Starfish Point.
within the restaurant specializing in offers guests the absolute privacy
tapas and pintxos. Beside the main enjoyed by castaways but without the
building and the pool complex stand deprivations. Essentially a farm with a
three beach-facing bungalows and the boutique resort and spa attached, this
residential tower, which houses 62 relaxing destination specializes in farm-
condominiums ranging in price from to-table cuisine of exceptional quality.
$1 million to $8 million. On arriving at reception, I noted the
Astwilightapproached,ourpartygath- property’s un-Caribbean appearance.
ered on the terrace, awaiting the phe- A whitewashed edifice with a tiled roof,
nomenon that gives the new resort its balustrades, and magenta plumes of
name. A seafire, I was told, is a brilliant bougainvillea, the hotel might have
flash of green that, under the right con- been transplanted from the Costa
ditions, appears at the moment the sun Brava in Spain. After I checked in to
hits the horizon on the Caribbean Sea my bungalow—an expansive white
off Seven Mile Beach. Thanks, however, to the cloudy fall- cottage with a swimming pool and a secluded beach—the
out of Hurricane Matthew, on that evening we were denied staff invited me to be seated in the Mango Restaurant,
the spectacle and settled instead for a radiant sunset. where I got my first taste of the establishment’s raison
BOTTOM: JULIE CORSETTI
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refreshed, I asked my mixologist, an enthusiastic young the centuries, transformed these expanses of limestone,
woman named Angel Robledo, to arrange a tour of the farm. sand, and mangrove swamps into vibrant and colorful
My guide drove me up a steep road to a heavy wooden havens. No indigenous cultures were displaced to make
gate, where we traded our SUV for a golf cart that he this possible; indeed, the islands seemed a triptych of
steered along carefully raked gravel paths. The stone- blank canvases for continual creation and re-creation.
bordered beds of fragrant citrus, spiny pineapple, bur- My account of the farm prompted one of the executives
geoning melons, and sundry esoteric plants suggested not attached to the Kimpton Seafire to arrange my visit to
a farm but a manicured botanical garden in which every- this private garden on Grand Cayman, where the gar-
thing was orderly as well as edible. Even the chicken coop dener, an uninhibited narrator, now recounts for my
pleased the eye, devoid of the blemishes usually associated benefit an incident involving a visiting notable and the
with such facilities. The guide sped along with mounting wife of a local dignitary who were nearly caught disport-
enthusiasm, stopping only to pluck some tart fruits resem- ing themselves in the foliage during a tea party. Changing
bling green cherries for me to try, as two lethargic blue the subject, I point to a palm tree that looks as if it has
iguanas, having already partaken themselves, looked on. been knocked over on its side and ask if this was the work
Later that evening I learned that the farm yielded liquid of Ivan. He shrugs indifferently.
bounty as well. After dinner, Robledo suggested I try one “It’ll keep growing, as long as it has roots,” he says. By
of her specialty cocktails. Minutes later, she returned with way of proof, he leads me to a clearing where, before a
a small sherry glass containing a dark liquid topped with small waterfall, three nearly intertwined palms, once
foam, a sprinkle of brown dust, and a wedge of dried coco- prone, curve gracefully skyward, their trunks patiently
nut. The portion was small, but the flavors were profound— defying gravity and the forces of nature to thrive. And
chocolate,brownspices,andhotpepper.“MyExtravaganza,” so it is with these islands.
she announced. “Everything in it is from the farm.”
Kimpton Seafire Resort & Spa, seafireresortandspa
THE FARM AT Le Soleil d’Or reinforced for me the .com; Le Soleil d’Or, lesoleildor.com; The Ritz-Carlton
resilience of the Caymanian people, who have, through Grand Cayman, ritzcarlton.com/grandcayman
Island
Renewal persuaded him to locate his global head-
quarters there. To attract top talent,
however, the community needed a cohe-
combines residential, commercial, retail,
and entertainment spaces with a state-
of-the-art school, has quickly become
WHEN KEN DART—owner of Dart sive urban center. “That was the vision the heart of day-to-day life on the island.
Realty, one of the Cayman Islands’ most behind the town of Camana Bay,” says Demand for luxury residences on Grand
successful developers—arrived on Dart Realty president Jackie Doak. The Cayman has been spurred in recent
Grand Cayman in the 1980s, he was mixed-use, waterfront development on years by the sophisticated amenities
struck by the beauty of the location. But Grand Cayman’s North Sound is one of present at Camana Bay, as well as by
the financial-services infrastructure and the first of its kind in the Caribbean. the lack of restrictions on foreign own-
the straightforward land-registry system Camana Bay (camanabay.com), which ership and the absence of property
taxes. In addition to the Residences at
Seafire (seafireresidencescayman.com),
would-be owners might consider Salt
Creek (saltcreek.ky), a newly launched
development featuring large waterfront
lots and separate carriage houses.
Still, the island’s emphasis on family
remains the primary draw. “The defini-
tion of luxury has changed,” says David
Seerman, vice president of sales at Dart
Right: Realty. “People don’t ask about finishes
JODI JACOBSON/ISTOCK
remote swath of the continent to see walk the sun-scorched earth among Parks. Taking it a step further are
what this tract of wilderness had elephants whose behavior is chang- individuals who are leasing mas-
left to save—and if it merited their ing out of fear for their lives, strikes sive tracts of land and providing
A ranger (far philanthropy. at the core of what makes us human. the financial support to restore and
right) hauls a tusk I, too, was in Gambella during the It is a story I have been covering protect them. Facilitating both
retrieved from an
poaching incident. The moment was closely for the last few years, on trips forms of the phenomenon is a new
elephant poached
in the Democratic
overwhelming—both for the beauty into parts of the African continent breed of specialists who help broker
Republic of of the landscape, peppered with rare where frontline conservation is tak- deals and, equally important, cre-
Congo’s Garamba Nile lechwe and elegant shoe-billed ing place but mainstream tourism ate the travel experiences to expose
National Park storks, and for the bleakness of the has yet to penetrate. These assign- potential donors to off-the-radar
(above and
situation. Witnessing the wet blood ments, largely for the Financial opportunities.
previous pages).
In Kenya, Richard
on the ivory, and the silence of the Times, have taken me to 13 African “I guide all over Africa, experienc-
Roberts (top right, rangers when they came back into countries, including Chad, Rwanda, ing beautiful lodges on $100,000-plus
foreground) and camp carrying the lone tusk, I expe- and Ethiopia. At times, the facts and itineraries,” said Michael Lorentz,
his team tend to rienced an entirely different emo- figures—an elephant is killed every the South African safari specialist
a tranquilized
tional response than I had at any 15 minutes, a rhino every 8 hours— who brought me to Gambella and
elephant.
other time in my years of reporting can be heart-wrenching. But I have whose company, Passage to Africa,
on poaching and conservation issues. noticed a philanthropic trend reach- arranged the complex logistics for
I thought of the glittering fund-raisers ing over all these stories like an African Parks’ donors. (On their
I had attended for African wildlife, umbrella. In its simplest iteration, return home, the group committed
where Prince William and others the trend involves a high-net-worth to an annual donation of $1 million
cast their celebrity magic dust about individual traveling to a remote area, to $3 million as a direct result of their
the room. All of this helps, of course, engaging in its conservation, and trip.) “Most guests want to have a
TOM PARKER
but to witness the stench of death in writing a check—often from a foun- beautiful vacation in the African
the field, to observe the strength of dation the person has established— wilderness, but there are also tra-
men and women doing this work, to to an organization such as African velers out there with deep pockets
ments, and the interest their kids January 2015. and security issues remain. The dan-
hold in projects for the long term. Bordered by Libya, Sudan, Nigeria, gers are not enough, however, to deter
This next generation cares about Cameroon, and the Central African Lorentz—last April he made his sixth
in an interview for the Financial Denis O’Brien, who committed a has worked mostly with large non-
Times. “There’s quite simply noth- six-figure sum to the Mara Elephant governmental organizations, Jones
ing else like it. People need to see it Project after taking a safari with pairs philanthropists with private
st
31
Year
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Harrison K-9 has provided the ¿QHVW European German Shepherd protectors
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entists did.) To elevate our safari the African bush. the forest’s protection in perpetuity.
experience—there was nothing lux- Purcell, who is of Irish and “Just the 5 percent annual interest
urious about traveling by bike and Australian descent, left his job as a on this sum will generate the $50,000
needed to run the entire ranger force,” year on community development needs to be discussed in the open with
said Purcell, who cofounded the and antipoaching, including helicop- individuals who have enough of a pas-
Tanzania’s Mwiba Tongwe Trust in 2002. “The forest ters, microlites, and staff. We were sion for Africa to engage with the
Lodge is part doesn’t need much: some bikes, bin- flying in Moyowosi—not far from realities at the sharp end. The one
of a massive
oculars, uniforms, and salaries of $100 Purcell’s stomping grounds, on Lake thing everyone who signs up to Wild
conservation
project funded by
a month per ranger for a force of 18.” Tanganyika’s shores—hovering over Philanthropy needs to understand is
Texas’s Friedkin The 187-square-mile, village-owned a gallery forest encircled by swamp that conservation in this century is a
family, which reserve suffers from the slash-and- with a canopy as thick as Ntakata’s. dangerous and thankless task.”
leases more than burn incursions of Burundian refu- Jones, who was with me again, ven- Jones’s words proved prescient. On
5,000 square miles
gees, as well as poachers. Purcell tured that this relic forest might also the same day I was in Gambella in
in the country.
introduced us to the issues, but also sequester chimpanzees; at one time, January, the same R44 helicopter we’d
to the forest’s lures. We took shade he said, the chimps would have flown in Moyowosi was shot out of
under the flying buttresses of vast moved freely between these patches the sky by elephant poachers—killing
200-year-old trunks. We spent time of forest, traveling all the way down the pilot, Roger Gower, with whom I
with the rangers, who carry not this western swath of Tanzania. On had worked 18 months prior. Thus I
weapons but notepads and pens to the 2018 donor trip, which will was reminded of another reality
record the pant-hoots of chimpan- include a tour of the Moyowosi forest behind the wild-philanthropy trend
zees. We followed the paths elephants and the Friedkin concessions, he at play: how giving is by no means
had made through thick bush. We plans to go searching to see if his a soft luxury. In modern Africa, it
lay down and rested by a river close theory holds true. means engaging with the risk of
to one of the Watongwe’s sacred “We want to inspire our members paying the biggest price of all.
groves to listen to the apes. with modest opportunities like
It was a moment of being in wild Ntakata, and giant examples like the African Parks, africanparks.eu;
nature that returned to me a few days Friedkins,” Jones said. “Engaging in Friedkin Conservation Fund,
later when I was flying in the R44 Africa is about understanding the friedkinfund.org; Geographic
helicopter operated by the Friedkin bigger conservation mosaic. It is a Expeditions, geoex.com; Milton
Conservation Fund, a nonprofit orga- complicated, textured world. For Group, paulmilton.com; Passage
nizationbankrolledbytheTexas-based example, Moyowosi is a hunting area, to Africa, passagetoafrica.com;
Friedkin family. The Friedkins, who but the Friedkins are also conserva- Singita Grumeti, singita.com;
ARIS VRAKAS
have 5,245 square miles of wilderness tionists on a formidable scale. Not The Tongwe Trust, tongwetrust
under lease in Tanzania, spend more everyone can square the two. There .org; Wild Philanthropy Travel,
than $3 million of private funds every are occasions when I can. All this wildphilanthropy.com
O
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should be a priority, and it is easier 1. Reset before you even In our clinic we use it as a circadian-
than ever to do so. leave home. rhythm anchor.”
The real issue when crossing time You can begin adjusting your sleep
zones, says Dr. Rachel Salas, a neu- clock to a new country’s time zone 3. Forgo the beverage-service
rologist at Johns Hopkins Medicine, at home by wearing darkening nightcap.
is exposure to light. “Light, especially glasses or visors, or by going to bed The most commonly used sleep aid,
sunlight, is the biggest clock resetter and waking earlier or later, says Dedhia says, is alcohol. However, it’s
we have,” she says. If we can reset our Salas. She also suggests using a light a poor choice. Every serving of alco-
circadian clocks when we travel, then box to tell your brain to wake up, even hol affects sleep for 2 hours, he says.
we are much more likely to enjoy the if it’s dark outside, or drawing black- Sedation levels increase for the first
trip. Many top international hotels out curtains to bring on the night a hour, but during the second hour
design their rooms for optimal sleep little earlier. arousal increases as the alcohol
so you can be your best self. leaves the body.
Travel can also be tough on sleep 2. Plan to arrive in a foreign
because by its very nature it casts country in the morning 4. Bring your own pillow.
aside routines. A healthy sleep regi- and sleep on the plane. Sleep posture can affect sleep
men, however, is one habit you will If you need help falling quality, especially if you have
want to preserve during your trip. asleep, Salas suggests a pain or sleep apnea, says
Dr. Param Dedhia—the director 1 mg dose of melatonin, Nancy Davis, an expert on
of sleep medicine at Canyon Ranch a hormone the body sleep posture at Canyon
in Tucson, Ariz.—says ideal sleep produces to signal Ranch. Unless you have
hygiene includes keeping non- the mind that sleep apnea, sleeping on
Right: A cashmere sleeping activities out of the bed- sleep is around your back is best—and
neck pillow from room. That’s challenging when your the corner. Take it 30 most first-class lie-
Loro Piana. Below:
hotel room or flight cabin has to serve minutes to 1 hour flat airline seats now
British Airways’
First Suites.
as a workspace. Nevertheless, you before you want to extend to 6.5 feet.
can still harmonize your external sleep, she says, but don’t Side sleeping is
environment with your internal state use it as a sleeping pill: the second preferred
by following these tips: “It’s not a very good one. position for good slumber,
Getting Some
Shut-Eye in the Sky
If you’re not flying privately,
then choose first class or business
class. You especially want to be
well rested if you have to hit the
ground running when you arrive at
your destination. Try to book a
lie-flat seat bed or premium cabin
with sleep pods, such as those on
British Airways, Qantas, and
Korean Air airliners. Better still
are the full-bed suites and “first
BOTTOM: ALISTERTHORPE.COM
9. Keep it cool.
To help restore cells, the body and
brain’s temperature drops during
sleep, says Dedhia. Travelers can fall
asleep faster by mimicking this cool-
ing process. Dedhia and Salas both
suggest indulging in a hot bath or
shower before bed. The subsequent
cooling can help prompt sleep. And
keeping your hotel room’s tempera-
ture between 64 and 69 degrees will
help you sleep soundly.
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Bathed in Style
A Swiss wellness retreat springs
from architecture’s great minds.
With its white exterior and minimal inte-
riors, 7132 Hotel (7132.com) is a far cry from
the traditional Swiss chalet. Designed by
the Pritzker Prize–winning architect Peter
Zumthor in the mid-1990s and built around
thermal springs, the resort is a modern
architectural achievement nestled in the
towering Alps. Recently, the Vals retreat—
which was declared a protected monument
just 2 years after opening—became even
more noteworthy with the debut of 63
guest rooms newly designed by top talents.
Thom Mayne of Morphosis Architects has
created 22 rooms wrapped from ceiling to
wall to floor in indigenous stone or wood;
the Japanese designer Kengo Kuma has
unveiled 23 light-filled accommodations
lined with panels of Swiss oak; and Tadao
Ando, the Pritzker Prize–winning architect
from Osaka, has invoked a sense of tradi-
tional Japanese tea houses with his 18
rooms featuring slatted wood walls and
floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the
verdant valley outside. In July, the hotel
plans to reveal 15 more high-design rooms
and suites, all with access to Zumthor’s
JEREMY MASON MCGRAW
An exploded
view shows the
modified
chronograph
base movement
with the
world-time
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