TIẾNG ANH CHUYÊN NGÀNH KỸ THUẬT DỆT

Technical English for Textile Engineering

Part 2. English of Leather Goods Design and Technology

Người biên soạn: TS. Nguyễn Ngọc Thắng

Bộ môn: Vật liệu & CN Hoá dệt
Điện thoại: 0904 309930
 BblClUEE 0EPA30BAHHE

s. G. DRUZHKOVA, Ye. V. KAZAKOVA, N. K. YURASOVA

ENGLISH
LEATHER GOODS DESIGN
AND TECHNOLOGY

c. r. flPYWKOBA, E. B. KA3AK0BA, H. K. (OPACOBA

AHMHMCKHM A3blK
KOHCTPYMPOBAHME
M TEXHOJlOTMfl M3AE/1MM
M3 KO)KM
PeKOMGHỜOBOHO
y^eỗHO-MemoduyecKUM oóbeduHeHUẽM no o6pa30BOHUK)
B oónacmu /lUHĩBucmuxu MuHUcmepcmea o6pa3OBOHUB
POCCUŨCKOŨ Qedepapuu B KQ^ecmee y^eổHOỉo nocoốun
Suit cmydeHmoB By3OB neỉKoũ npoMbiuijieHHocmu

MocKBa
ACADEM'A
2003
 5. Render the following text in English:
c apeBHHX BpeMeH (ỊÍopMa H KOUCTpytiUHB o6yBH TCCHO CBB3aHbi c
VCJ1OBMHMH HOCKM, cpcaoit, KJmMaTH'teCKHMH yCJlOBHHMH, B KOTOpbIX
npoxiiBaeT TOT HJIH MHOÍÍ Hapofl. Tax. B xapKMx paitoHax H3JiaBHa HOCMJIH
TaKOỈÌ BHH oGyBH, KaK CaHflajIIIH, KOTOpfcIC aBJlJl/IHCb xopo- luefr 3amitT0fi
HHXHei-i 43CTH cTonhi OT OXOTOB H MexaHHaecKHX no- BpexaeUHH. CaH.ia.THH
It ccitMac llllipOKO HCnOJIb3yiOTCfl KaK J1CTHHH oGyBb B CTpaHax c
VMCpeHHblM KJIHMaTOM.
yneubie c’lHTaioT, irro nepijoii oGyBbK) Gbui KycoK KOXH, KOTopbiỉí HejiOBeK
npHKpenjiBJi K HHXHeii HacTfi cTonbi. rioMHMO KOXH flJW oGyBH
Hcnojib3OBajiHCb TíỉKHe pacTHTejibHbie MaTcpHajTW, K3K Kopa. narinpyc, aepeBo.
6. Look through all the texts of Part One and the Encyclopedia of Fashion and
give a historical account of 1) the development of footwear and 2) the
decoration of shoes.

TIẾNG ANH CHUYÊN NGÀNH KỸ THUẬT DỆT

Technical English for Textile Engineering

Part 2. English of Leather Goods Design and Technology

Người biên soạn: TS. Nguyễn Ngọc Thắng

Bộ môn: Vật liệu & CN Hoá dệt
Điện thoại:’ 0904 309930
 PART TWO
FOOTWEAR MATERIALS

UNIT ONE. THE HISTORY OF LEATHER AND SUEDE

1. Read the international words and guess their meanings:

civilization, soldier, technique, empire, method, primitive, extract,
. Iiemicals, decorative, hero, role, lady, container, experiment, formula,
tradition, mobile, navigation, manuscript
2. Check up if you remember the following words:
animal, development, clothing, boat, carpet, belt, shirt, to turn, tree, to pass,
century, vegetable, king, piece, need, smoke
3. Say to what parts of speech the following words belong:
important, prehistoric, protective, independently, garment, originate,
discover, satisfy, highly, later, nineteenth, soften, similar, better, used,
development, century, grow—growth
4. Give the initial forms of the following words:
treating, prized, made, heroes, preserving, societies, tanning, closely, most,
earliest, known, would, chosen, were, found
5. Arrange a) antonyms and b) synonyms in pairs and translate them into
Russian:
a) light, putresible, stable, heavy, heat, non-putresible, modern, cold,
unstable, ancient
b) matter, stiff, industry, technique, to make, method, substance, to
produce, manufacture, tough
6. Translate the following into Russian:
it is essential; it is important; it is possible; it is known; it will be noted; it is
certain; it should be noticed; it must be admitted
7. In one of each pair of sentences given below, it is used instead of a noun.
Find an appropriate noun and translate it into Russian:
I. Raw skin is not homogeneous. It consists of several layers. 2. As leather
is a natural product, it has certain characteristics that can be a problem to
manufacturers. 3. One of the most widely used tanning procedures is mineral
tanning. It is much quicker than vegetable tanning and results in soft leather. 4.
The surface of the skin is called the epidermis. It is removed partly by chemical
means and partly by mechanical means.
5. Leather is a highly absorbent material and this property makes it ideal for
making shoes.

TEXT ONE

Before reading the text say in Russian what you know about leather, its production
and use.

History of Leather and Suede

Leather has played an important role in the development of civilization. From
prehistoric times man has used the skins of animals to satisfy his basic needs. He
has used hides to make clothing, shelter, carpets, and even decorative attire. To
the Egyptian lady, a fur piece was as highly prized as her jewellery. From leather,
man made footwear, belts, clothing, containers for liquids, boats, and even
armour. The principal protective armour of the Roman soldier was a heavy
leather shirt.
In recorded history, pieces of leather dating from 1300 BC have been found
in Egypt. Primitive societies in Europe, Asia, and North America all developed
the technique of turning skins into leather goods independently of one another.
The Greeks were using leather garments in the age of the Homeric heroes (about
1200 BC), and the use of leather later spread throughout the Roman Empire.
During the Middle Ages, the Chinese knew the art of making leather. The Indians
of North America also had developed great skills in leatherwork before the
coming of the white man.
At some lime, by accident or by trial and error, man discovered methods of
preserving and softening leather by treating animal skins with such things as
smoke, grease and bark extracts. The process by which hides and skins are
transformed into supple, pliable leathers is called tanning. The two principal
methods of tanning are vegetable tanning and chrome tanning. In primitive
societies the art of tanning leather was a closely guarded secret passed down from
father to son. In the nineteenth century, vegetable tanning, i.c. tanning using
extracts from the bark of certain kinds of trees, was supplemented by chrome
tanning. This process uses chemicals.
1. Read the text and say whether the following statements are true or false:
1. Nobody knows when man learned how to make leather of skins and hides.
2. From leather, man made footwear, belts, clothing, boats, etc. 3. During the
Middle Ages, the Chinese did not know the art of making leather. 4. The first
method of tanning was chrome tanning. 5. In the nineteenth century chrome
tanning was supplemented by vegetable tanning.
2. Answer the following questions:

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1. When did man begin to use leather? 2. What was made of leather?
3. Where (in what countries) have pieces of leather been found? 4. Did the
Chinese know the art of making leather during the Middle Ages? 5. Had the
Indians of North America developed great skills in leatherwork before the coming
of the white man? 6. How did ancient people preserve and soften leather? 7. What
is tanning? 8. What arc the two principal methods of tanning? 9. When did
chrome tanning appear? 10. What substances does chrome tanning use?
3. Find tile English equivalents in the text for the following Russian word-
combinations:
1. uiKypbi H lUKypKH JKHBOTHbix; 2. MeJiOBeK ncnojib3OBaji Koxy
JUW H3roTOBJieniiit oaexttbi, oõyBti; 3. cnocoõ (TexHHKa) npenpaute- HHH
UIKVP B Koxy; 4. HCKyccTBO H3roTOBJieHna KOXH; 5. cnocoõbi
coxpaneHHH H MflfMCHHH KOXH; 6. HCKyccTBO ayõaeHHH Koxw; 7. 06-
paõaTbinaTb uiKypbi >KHBOTHbix XHpoM H 3KCTpaKT0M Kopbi
aepeBbeB; 8. TiuarejibHO oxpaHHeMbiii ceKpeT; 9. pacTHTeabHoe 11
xpoMOBoe ayõ- jieHHe; 10. Kopa onpejteaeHHbtx BI-VIOB jtepeBbeB
4. Write a summary of the text using the English equivalents of the words given
above.

TEXT TWO

Read the text and write its plan in Russian.

Introduction to Leather
1. Leather is the hide or skin of an animal, bird or reptile after it has been
tanned or treated by a chemical process which prevents it from putrefaction; hides
are derived from larger animals such as buffalo, elephant, horse, cattle and skins
from smaller animals, birds and reptiles. Man has used the skins of animals from
paleolithic times for making garments and utensils but rawhide is much more
unstable material than leather; it putrefies with damp heat and when used for
clothing, is stiff. Only in a hot, dry climate is the putrefying process slowed so
that in ancient Egypt, for example, rawhide was used for containers, but even
here, few articles have been found intact.
2. It is not known exactly when, where or how man first learnt to transform
raw animal skin into non-putresible leather but articles of over 7000 years old
have been found in good condition.
3. The making of leather in modern times has become more a science than an
art. Many different techniques and processes are used according to the type of
leather to be produced and these are now fully mechanized though
industrialization came late to the leather industry and techniques did not change
greatly over the years until the late nineteenth century.
4. Three principal methods have been used through the ages to transform the
animal hide into leather: tanning, tawing and chamoising and these processes
produce different kinds of leather. Tanning has been the most important method
in which the skins are prevented from putrefaction by the chemical properties of
tannin found in vegetable matter. The tawing method of making leather is very
ancient one. It was used in ancient Egypt, India, Europe, the Greeks and Romans
used tawing and it was widely employed in the Middle Ages in Europe. This is a
mineral process using alum and salt and originally produced white leather, though
later it was dyed in colours. Chamoising was a process using oil, which produces
soft leather. The term comes from the original use of chamois skin for the
process.
1. Answer the following questions:
1. What is leather? 2. What is the difference between a hide and a skin? 3.
When has man used the skins of animals? 4. What material is more unstable:
rawhide or leather? 5. When did man first learn to transform raw animal skin into
leather? 6. What are three principal methods used to transform the animal hide
into leather? 7. What arc they characterized by?
2. Find the English equivalents in the text for the following Russian word-
combinations:
1. npe/toxpaHHTb OT rnneHHSi; 2. HeycTOHMHBbiii MaTepnaji; 3. npe- BpamaTb
Cbtpyio utKypy XHBOTHoro B HerHWJOiuyio Koacy; 4. ncnojib- 30B3TB pa3JWHHbie
MeTOflbi H nponeccbi; 5. nojiHocTbto MexaHH3npo- BaHHbih; 6. na npoTflJKeHMH
BeKOB; 7. no/t fleMCTBHCM XHMHHCCKHX CBOHCTB flybHTejtn, HahfleHHoro B
pacTCHMHx; 8. MHHepaJibHbih npo- necc, B KOTOpOM HCnOJlb3ytOTCH KBaCLlbl H
COJtb
3. Write out the sentences which describe three principal methods of
transforming the animal hide into leather.
4. Read the text and find the key words which would reflect the main idea of the
text.
5. Give a summary of the text using the key words.

UNIT TWO. SKIN AND HIDE STRUCTURE

1. Read the international words and guess their meanings:

homogeneous, substance, diagrammatically, dermis, hypodermis, epidermis,
delicate, protein, base, dbllagen, non-collagenous, gland, complex, individual,
unique, structure, nerve, reverse, follicles, glands, proportions, original, total,
fibre
2. Translate the following pairs of words into Russian:
isolation — to isolate; production — to produce; formation — to form; basis
— to base; container — to contain; representation — to
I (.-present; correction — to correct; surprise — to surprise, indicator — Io
indicate
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 3. Check up if you remember the following words:
to cover (with), wool, hair, wall, to consist (of), to compose (of), numerous,
blood, fat, to depend (on), property, fine, besides, thick, I hickness, to remain,
sheep, latter, former
4. Read and translate the sentences into Russian paying attention to the passive
voice:
1. The fibrous part of the skin, which is used for leather, is called the dermis.
2. The skins were usually chosen for clothing because they were bigger, stronger
and warmer. 3. Leather has been used for making shoes and every possible
article of clothing. 4. Footwear can be subjected to extremes of temperature in
its lifetime, and so a good sole adhesive must function satisfactorily in hot
condition. 5. Almost all leather soles are made of vegetable-tanned leather which
is particularly sensitive to heat. 6. There is little demand for suede leather in New
Zealand, although some leather is being produced by New Zealand tanners. 7. It
has been estimated that sole-bond failures account for 30 — 40 per cent of all
returns to manufacturers.

TEXT ONE

Practise reading the text aloud. Render it in Russian.

Skin Structure
Raw skin is not homogeneous substance covered with hair or wool. It consists
of several layers which are represented diagrammatically in order below:

Epidermis
True skin (pelt) Grain
(Dermis)
Corium

Hypodermis
As indicated above, leather is produced from the pelt or true skin so that the
epidermis and adipose tissue must be removed. The walls of the epidermal cells
consist of a substance belonging to the keratin group of proteins. Epidermal tissue
covers and protects the delicate true skin.
The true skin or dermis consists of two layers, the grain layer and corium
layer. The former extends from the surface of the true skin to the base of the hair
roots, whilst the corium forms the remaining lower part of the true skin. Both
layers consist mainly of fibrous tissue composed of a complex protein, collagen.
In addition to fibrous tissue, the dermis

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known as liming, is also traditional: the raw skins rest for 20—24 hours in
barrels, tubs, or drums filled with a lime solution. This softens the epidermis and
the flesh layers thoroughly.
Next, the flesh is removed from the raw skin. Machines have now taken over
what was once extremely laborious manual labour. First, the subcutaneous
connective tissue is removed from the raw skin softened with lime, revealing the
flesh side of the corium. Then the skin is fed through knife cylinders to remove
the epidermis, uncovering the grain side of the corium. In order to make sure that
both surfaces are as clean as possible after machine cleaning, the same procedures
are carried out again by hand, using a knife.
Finally, the cleaned skin is checked thoroughly and graded carefully. It now
becomes possible to judge the real quality of the skin. Only immaculate skins and
hides are allowed for further processing.
Assuming the inspection shows that the skin has no imperfections that would
mean its rejection, it is now almost ready for the actual tanning process.

barrel — So'iKa, pe3epByap drum — 6apa6an

tub — aoxaHb, Bamia, yiuaT subcutaneous — noaKOXHbiii

1. Read the text again and say whether the following statements are true or false:
1. Softening the raw skins helps to remove dirt and preservatives.
2. Liming softens the epidermis. 3. The flesh isn’t removed from the raw skin. 4.
All skins and hides are allowed for further processing.
2. Name the main points discussed in the text in four or five sentences.

TEXT TWO

Read the text and say what paragraphs contain the following information:
1. Bepx ofjyBH jiejiatOT M3 K0XH xpoMOBoro /tydjieHHfl, T3K K3K OHa
3HaHHTejibHO Marte, Jierue, npHflTHee Ha ontynb, õoriee TenjiocTOM- Kaa, UCM Koxa
pacTHTejibnoro aybjieHHa. 2. npH xpoMOBOM zry6jre- HHH LUKypu noMemaK)TCH BO
BpaurarouiHMCH 6apa6aH c flybfliUHM pa- CTBOPOM Ha 6 — 12 nacoB. 3. riocne
ayõrtCHHH Koxa He dbiBaeTJioM- Koit HJ1H xeCTKofi, He nopTHTCH, CCJ1H OHa
HaMOKHCT. 4. PaCTHTejrb- Hoe ayõneHHC Bee cute Hcn0Jib3yeTCii JVIH
M3r0T0BjicHHfl noflOLUBeH- HOỈÍ 14 nozucnaaoMHOH KOXH.

Tanning
I. The most important process of all is tanning. Tanned leather differs from
raw skin and hide in many ways. It does not become fragile and stiff if it comes
into contact with water; it does not decay when wet, and dries again afterward;
and it does not become glutinous if exposed to strong heat. The durability of
leather depends on the effectiveness of the tanning. This, therefore, has a decisive
influence on the quality of the finished shoe and the wellbeing of the wearer’s
feet. Another important consideration that must not be neglected is the testing
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0
treatment that the leather will be exposed to as the shoe is built. It is tacked,
stretched, blocked, and softened and must maintain its positive characteristics —
elasticity, softness, strength, and air permeability — throughout.
2. Until the middle of the nineteenth century the leathers used as shoe uppers
and soles were made resistant, durable, and elastic mainly with vegetable
materials (oak or spruce bark, chestnut wood, sumach leaves, and oak gall).
Vegetable-tanned leather is easily recognized by its yellow or light-beige
coloration. This procedure, vegetable tanning, is still used for the preparation of
sole and lining leather.
3. Apart from vegetable tanning, the Ancient Egyptians were also familiar
with a form of mineral tanning. This mainly involved the use of alum and
cooking salt. Modern mineral tanning, chrome-salt tanning, became widespread
after 1858, when the German chemist Friedrich L. Knapp discovered the tanning
properties of chrome salts. Since then this procedure has replaced vegetable
tanning almost completely for certain types of leather (calfskin, cowhide, and
horse leather). Most shoe uppers are made of chrome-tanned leather, as it is
considerably softer and pleasanter to the touch, lighter, more flexible, more heat-
resistant, and easier to dye than alum- or vegetable-tanned leather. In addition,
one great advantage of chrome-salt tanning is the time factor: it shortens the
entire tanning process to six or seven weeks, compared to the six or seven months
required previously.
4. In chrome-salt tanningthe skin are placed in rotating drums filled with
tanning liquor for 6-12 hours so that the chrome salts penetrate the skin from all
directions. After tanning, the leather has to rest for at least 24 hours so that the
structural changes that have taken place could fix effectively and completely in
all the fibers.
1. Read the text again and say whether the following statements are true or false:
1. After tanning leather becomes fragile and stiff. 2. Vegetable-tanned leather
is used for sole. 3. Mineral tanning uses alum and cooking salt.
4. Since 1858 vegetable tanning has replaced mineral tanning. 5. Chrome-
tanned leather is soft, pleasant to the touch, light and flexible.
2. Find the English equivalents in the text for the following Russian word-
combinations:
1. CTaHOBHTbCH xpyriKOH H xecTKOM; 2. He nopTHTCH, eCJIM
H3MOK- HeT; 3. pemaiomee BJiHBHHe; 4. He cneayeT npeneõperaTb; 5. 40
cepe- TtHHbi XIX BeKa; 6. Koxa pacTHTeJibHoro ayfwieHHfl JierKO
y3HaBaeMa; 7. c Tex nop; 8. 33MeHHTb noMTH noaHocTbio; 9.
3HautrrejibH0 Marne H
npHHTHee Ha OLLtynb; 10. BaoõaBOK; 11. ayõautasi XHHKOcTb; 12. 3a-
KpenJlHTbCfl 3(ị)(ị)CKTHBHO H nO-JIHOCTblO BO Bcex BOJIOKHaX
3. Answer the following questions:
1. What docs tanned leather differ from raw skin and hide in? 2. What does
the durability of leather depend on? 3. What positive characteristics must leather
maintain in wear? 4. What are the properties of leathers used as shoe uppers? 5.
How is vegetable-tanned leather recognized? 6. When did chrome-salt tanning
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become widespread? 7. What kind of leather are most shoe uppers made of? 8.
What are the properties of chrome-tanned leather? 9. What is the advantage of
chrome-salt tanning? 10. What is the procedure of chrome-salt tanning?
4. Give a summary of the text. The answers to the questions above will help you.

TEXT THREE

Translate the text into Russian. Use a dictionary if necessary.

Post-tanning Procedures and Finishing

There are a number of procedures carried out after tanning and before the
final finishing of the leather. After pressing out the excess water, the tanner
checks the leather yet again for any defects that may be present. Now the leather
is coloured to precise specifications. Generally, this is done by one of two
procedures: dyeing or staining. In dyeing, the skins are placed into huge tubs and
rotated in organic or inorganic dye until it has penetrated all the fibres; in
staining, the tanner simply applies the dye onto the surface of the leather. This
used to be done with a'brush, but today spray guns are more common for this
procedure.
The dyed skins can also be dried by several methods. In convection drying,
the skins and hides are hung up and conveyed through a drying tunnel 66 feet (20
m) long. A more traditional method involves placing the leather grain side down
on a large glass plate and pushing a blunt blade across it to remove any moisture
and creases there may be in the material. The oldest, but still the most practical,
method involves stretching the leather on wooden frames. In both cases, whether
it is spread out on a glass plate or a wooden frame, the leather dries at a
temperature of 100— 1400 °F (40 —60 °C) and is left to rest for one or two days.
After this the tanner treafs the surface of the leather with fats in order to improve
its softness and shine. The last stage in the tanning process is smoothing. The
flesh side is ironed with a heavy hand-help iron or the leather flattened (“plated”)
in a machine in which a rolling cylinder presses the grain side of the leather onto
a steel sheet heated to 180—190°F (80 —90°C). The chrome-tanned upper
leather is now finished and ready to go to the shoemaker’s workshop.

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convection — KOHBCKUHH, T.e. nepeHoc TCiuia aBHxymeỉica cpeaoii, Hanpu- ML’P
noTOK3MH BO3-iyxa, napa

1. Read the text again and find a sentence with used to. Remember that
something used to happen means something happened regularly in the past
but no longer happens. Give your own examples with used to.
2. Match the English words and word-combinations with their Russian
equivalents. Practise hack translation with a partner to better memorize I
them:
1. stretching
a) TOHHwe TexHHuecKHe TpeõoBaHna
2. dyeing
b) KOHBeKTHBHaa cywKa
3. removing
c) moisture and KpaiucHne MeTOflOM norpvxcHibi
creases (OKVHOMHOe KpauieHHe)
4. staining
d) pa3rjiaxHBaHHe
5. precise
e) specifications nOKpbiBHoe KpaiueHite 0 ropauee
6. smoothing npeccoBaHHe oraejiaHHOH
KOXH
7. convection
g) drying plating OTXMM H pa3BO4Ka
8. h) TiixKa (BMTarnBaHHe)
3. Write out all the post-tanning procedures which are described in the text.
Give their Russian equivalents.

Model, pressing out the excess water -> OT5KHM JiwuHeii BOAbi

4. Practise asking and answering questions with your partner.

TEXT FOUR

translate the text into Russian ill writing.

Upper Leather
When the tanning and finishing processes have been completed, the main
types of upper leather are as follows:
Full-chrome Calf. This leather is easily recognized by its soft, supple I el
and smooth grained surface. The skins of younger animals are used lor the uppers
of women’s shoes. The large skins from veal production Heards are used to
make leathers that are more substantial in weight. I hese are normally used for
men’s footwear.
Aniline Calf. Only the best skins, blemishfree, can be used for this process
as the finish is completely transparent and shows the unique detail of the calf
leather.
Glace Kid. This type of leather is recognized by its smooth fine grain and its
natural high gloss. It stretches more than other leathers and is
JlpyJKKona 33
often made into shoes for people who suffer from bunions as it moulds itself into the shape of the
foot more easily. Sometimes this leather is coated with gold or silver foil to be used for evening
shoes.
Suede. This leather has a napped surface which is exceptionally soft to feel.
Patent. The old method of producing patent leather resulted in a mirror-like finish but
unfortunately it tended to crack in a cold atmosphere. Today, patent leather is produced by an
entirely new process. Nitrocellulose or other synthetic resin, usually less than 0.15 mm thick is
applied. This leather stands up to different changes in temperature.
1. Answer the following questions:
1. What are the main types of upper leather described in the text? 2. What is full-chrome calf
recognized by? 3. What skins arc used for producing calf leather? 4. What shoes are made of kid
leather? 5. What can kid leather be coated by? 6. Why is suede soft to feel? 7. What was the
disadvantage of the old method of producing patent leather? 8. How is patent leather produced
today?
2. Speak on vegetable and mineral tanning.
3. Suppose that you are in the tanning shop. Describe the work of a tanner.

UNIT FOUR. LEATHER PROPERTIES

1. Read the international words and guess their meanings:

absorption, adequate, synthetic, combination, elasticity, plasticity, original, special, complex,
chemical, permanent, conductor, thermoplastic, plastics, pigment, criteria, cream, aniline, guarantee,
ordinary
2. Check up ii you remember the following words:
flexible, quality, slipper, to mould, property, to remove, to meet, last, to keep, to wear, to break,
to depend on, to lose, to reach, to harden
3. Arrange a) synonyms and b) antonyms in pairs and translate them into Russian:
a) certain, scuff-proof, common, to absorb, insert, ordinary, waterproof, to modify, special,
gusset, water-resistant, to change, to soak up, scuff-resistant
b) disadvantage, upper, majority, few, the same, advantage, natural, recent, to sell, minority,
bottom, old, man-made, to buy, many, other
4. Guess the meanings of the underlined words:
to breathe — b readability, scuff-resistant — scuff-resistance, to repair — repairable, to insert
— insert, to treat — treatment, to consider — consideration, to mould — mouldability, to research
— researcher, to complain — complaint
5. Translate the sentences into Russian paying attention to the modal verbs:
I. If this moulding is to be permanent, even after the last is removed, • lie material must have
plasticity. 2. After the skin has been dyed, it
I an be given a transparent spray coat which fixes and protects the olour. 3. Uneven flesh splits have
to be trimmed to remove the flimsy
pieces. 4. If failure occurs (while assessing the adhesion of the finish),
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II should be brought to the attention of the tanner. 5. The leather must lie dried before vulcanizing.
6. Tannage may be combined to produce I leather with the desirable characteristics of both of the
main tannages.
If PVC heels are to be covered, urethane adhesive is required.

TEXT ONE

Read the text carefully and say what leather properties are described in it.

Leather Qualities
Leather has basic qualities that make it very suitable for footwear, l eather’s strength, stretch,
and ability to resist tearing, are directly iclated to the complex interlacing of the fibres.
Leather’s ideal combination of plastic and elastic properties allows it 10 conform to the last and
keep its shape throughout wear, even adjusting 10 the individual characteristics of the wearer’s foot.
Both permeability and absorption are important for good foot comfort. Whilst synthetic upper
materials can have high permeability, they lack I he absorption properties of leather. The insulating
properties of leather ilso contribute to foot comfort.
Leather is relatively easy to work in the shoe factory; it can be joined ■Hid attached by a wide
range of methods and is easy to repair.
1. Practise reading the text aloud.
2. Answer the following questions:
1. What is leather’s strength and stretch related to? 2. What leather properties allow it to conform
to the last? 3. What leather property do synthetic upper materials lack? 4. What affects leather’s
resistance to scuffing and abrasion? 5. Is leather easy to repair?
3. Find the English equivalents in the text for the following Russian word- combinations:
I. ocHOBHbie KanecTBa; 2. npnroaHbi fljut oõyBtt; 3. npouHocTb H rsiryuecTb; 4. conpoTMBJiiiTbCfl
(npoTHBOCTOiiTb) pa3jwpy; 5. cjioxHoe HcpenjieTeHHe BOJIOKOH; 6. cooTBCTCTBOBaTb (Ịiop.vie
KOJioztKH; 7. co- xpaHHTb ộopMy B TeneHJte Bceu HOCKW; 8. aõcopõnpyioimie CBoficTit.1 KOXM; 9.
H30JIflUHOHHbie CBOỈÍCTBa; 10. npOTHBOCTOHTh a6pa3HBHOMy H3HaiUHBaHHlO
(n3HOCOCTOHKOCTb); 11. nOBCeflHeBHaa OÕyBb; 12. OT- tteJIKa KOXH; 13. innpOKHỈÍ Bblõop
MCTOflOB ■

TEXT TWO

Read the text and explain in Russian the difference between strength and stretch; elasticity and plasticity.

Leather Properties

Strength and Stretch. Present methods of shoe manufacture, other than for some strap sandals and
slippers, require the upper material to be subjected to considerable tension during its moulding to the
last. The upper must stretch adequately before the breaking point is reached if it is to be properly
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lasted. Therefore, stretch can often be more important than strength. Leather can have both very high
tensile strength and adequate stretch before it breaks, depending on the type of hide or skin, its
method of tanning and finishing, and its substance. Leather is normally stronger than necessary for
shoe manufacture, unless the leather has been abnormally weakened by chemical treatment, damage,
or by too great a reduction in thickness.
Elasticity and Plasticity. An elastic material is the one which, after distortion and release,
completely recovers its original shape. A material that has plasticity is the one which, after distortion
and release, retains the new shape produced by distortion.
Most shoes are made by moulding a fiat material tb the curved surface of the last. If this
moulding is to be permanent, even after the last is removed, the material must have plasticity. On the
other hand, when the shoe is being worn, it is constantly flexed, and it is expected to recover its
original shape when it is removed from the foot. The shoe material must, therefore, be elastic or the
shoe rapidly loses its shape.
The problem is to find a material that is plastic during part of its processing and then becomes or
remains mainly elastic. Leather meets these criteria.
During lasting, the stretch is taken out of the leather, and its plasticity is used to mould it to the
curves of the last. The elasticity of the leather ensures that the upper fits tightly on the last during
manufacture and keeps its shape in wear later. The plasticity is not entirely removed so that, in wear,
the shoe gradually adjusts to the shape of the foot and becomes more comfortable.
1. Translate the passage entiled “Elasticity and Plasticity” into Russian in writing.

2. Find the English equivalents in the text for the following Russian word- combinations:
I. oõyBHoe npoittBOflCTBo; 2. KOMHaTHbie TycịviH (jjoMaiUHHe ra- IHXIKH); 3.
noaBepraTbCH 3Haiinrc;ibH0.My HanpãxeHHio; 4. ộopMOBa- Iiiie; 5. TOHKa paãpbiBa; 6.
npefleji npoHHOCTH npn pa3pbiBe: 7. 0CJ13- niiTb npu XMMH'iecKOM o6pa6oTKe; 8.
BoccTaHaBJiHBaTb ncpBOHauajib- IIVIO ộop.viy; 9. coxpaHHTb npi-uiaHHVio ộopMy; 10.
noBepxHOCTb KO- lOAKli; 11. ÕblCTpO TepíỉTb ộopMy; 12. OTBCMaTb 3THM
KpHTepiIÍỈM; 13. 1U1OTHO OXBaTblBaTb IlOBepXHOCTb KOJIOflKH; 14. npilHUMaTb
(hop'd y cTonbi
3. Answer the following questions:
1. What property is more important for leather — stretch or strength?
What do these properties depend on? 3. What is the leather abnormally weakened by? 4. What
does elasticity mean? 5. What does plasticity mean? 6. How are most shoes made? 7. Is leather an
elastic and plastic material? 8. What does the elasticity of the leather ensure? 9. Is the plasticity
entirely removed from the leather?
4. Write a plan of the text.
5. Give a summary of the text according to your plan.

TEXT THREE

Read the text and entitle it.

Flex Resistance. Shoes are subjected to constant flexing or bending during wear. Every' step
taken causes the leather across the vamp to l end and then to return to its original position. Leather
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stands up extremely well to flexing because of the way the fibres are interlaced. More often,
repeated flexing breaks down the leather finish rather than I he leather itself, but heavy perspiration
and repeated wetting hardens 1 he leather and eventually causes it to crack.
Foot Comfort. Apart from softness and flexibility, the two most important properties for the
foot comfort of an upper material are permeability and absorption.
The material’s ability to pass water vapour, that is, perspiration, n eatly affects the comfort of
the wearer. The result of low permeability IS damp or, in extreme cases, wet feet. However, high
permeability done is not enough. It must be coupled with good absorption properties because
absorption by the lining and upper material helps to keep the loot dry. Leather has good permeability
and absorption properties.
Heat Resistance. The heat resistance of leather depends on its insulating properties and its
resistance to high temperatures. To have mod heat-resisting properties, a material must be of a
substance that does not readily conduct heat. Air is a very poor conductor of heat, and

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 1. When man had found a way to tan skins, he soon found many uses for them. 2. Leather
stands up extremely well to flexing because of the way the fibres are interlaced. 3. Because it has to
be placed in the shoe by hand, a sock must be able to slide over the insole easily during fitting. 4.
Since the leather is lightweight, it is suitable for women’s shoes. 5. After the skin has been dyed, it
can be given a transparent spray coat which fixes and protects the colour. 6. This type of finish is
described as semi-aniline as it is still partly transparent. 7. Although the resistance of the leather
surface to scuffing and abrasion depends partly on the tightness of the grain, it depends largely on
the finish type. 8. Where a high water resistance is required, the leather is usually stuffed with fats
and oils. 9. Whilst synthetic upper materials can have high permeability, they lack the absorption
properties of leather. 10. It should be noted that the leather made from hides that have grain defects
is just as strong as leather made from clean grained hides.
5. Translate the sentences into Russian. Mind different meanings of the word for.
1. Shoes are very good starting point for several reasons. 2. He prepared fantastical drawings for
theatre sets and costume designs. 3. These days we take comfort for granted but for the majority of
people well-fitting footwear became possible with mass-production. 4. There arc some women for
whom a high heel is quite natural, for a high heel adds height and power. 5. For the past twenty
years Maud Frison has been creating original shoes.

TEXT ONE

Read the text and write its plan in Russian.

Man-made Leather
With the rapid advance of the high polymer chemical industry various kinds of man-made
leathers have been developed. The demand is rapidly increasing for man-made leathers to be used
instead of natural leathers or in the field where natural leathers are lacking in commercialization.
Structure of Man-made Leather. Natural leathers are made from protein in fibre form called
collagen. The inside of leather can be divided into a grain layer and a collagen layer by thickness of
collagen and difference in density. Between these two layers does not exist any clear dislocation. •
In man-made leathers, such grain layer and collagen layer are artificially produced. As different
materials are used for these layers, a clear dislocation is created between the layers.
This is the fundamental difference in structure between natural leathers and man-made leathers
There are two main types of artificial leathers

II present available to the shoe industry. They are coated fabrics and \ Iithetic poromerics.
Man-made leathers are made by coating various resins on the base loth and, finally, by finishing
the surface area. The qualities of man-
11. ide fibres obtained vary depending on the kind of base cloth and
111, and the method of surface finishing.
Base Cloth of Man-made Leather. Tear strength and feeling of manmade leathers are greatly
depending on the base cloth used. For instance,
I knitted fabric is used as the base cloth, man-made leather will carry ■•oil feeling, and if woven
fabric is used, the man-made fibre will have hard touch.
Generally speaking, man-made leather with knitted fabric used as I lie base cloth is to be used

44
for apparel. On the other hand, man-made leather with woven fabric used as the base cloth is used in
the field such I. industrial materials where tear strength is required in particular.
The qualities of man-made leathers also vary depending on thickness
III the base cloth and piling. The properties of man-made leathers are ilso depending upon the resin
to be coated on the base cloth. Usually, the variety of man-made leathers are classified by resins to
be coated.
Generally, polyvinyl chloride resin, polyamide resin, polyurethane icsin, acrylic resin are
employed, and they are called PVC leather, nylon leather, urethane leather, etc.
Resins have function to eliminate feeling of textile goods of the base 1 loth, bringing leather like
feeling. Specially sponged leathers possess hygroscopic property and soft feeling, and proper
elasticity, which are broadly used. Other man-made leathers are, of course, used in many fields and
the demand is increasing every year.
Finishing of surface area of man-made leather is the most important process. This is not only
because the surface strength, lustre and feeling I if man-made leather are to be influenced by surface
finishing, but also because it is an important factor by which the users evaluate man-made leathers.
1. Translate in writing that part of the text which describes the structure of man-made leather.
2. Say whether the following statements are true or false:
1. Man-made leathers are often used instead of natural leathers.
Natural leathers arc made from collagen. 3. In natural leather, there exists a clear dislocation
between a grain layer and collagen. 4. The properties of man-made fibres depend only on the
method of surface finishing. 5. When woven fabric is used as the base cloth, man-made leather will
carry soft feeling. 6. Finishing of surface area of man-made leather influences the surface strength
and lustre of artificial leather.
3. Answer the following questions:
1. Why is the demand for man-made leathers increasing? 2. What ■ire natural leathers made
from? 3. What layers can the inside of leather be divided into? 4. Is there any clear dislocation
between the layers'1 5. What is the fundamental difference in structure between natural and artificial
leathers? 6. How are artificial leathers made? 7. What do the properties of artificial fibres depend
on? 8. What is man-made leather with knitted fabric used for? 9. What is man-made leather with
woven fabric used for? 10. What is the most important process in producing synthetic leather?
4. Find the English equivalents in the text for the following Russian word- combinations:
I. c ÕHCTpbiM P33BHTHCM; 2. cnpoc pacTer; 3. xHMHMecKan ripo- MblUIJICHHOCTb
BbICOKHX nOJIHMepOB; 4. BHyTpeHHHH CTOpOHa KO»H (baxTopMa); 5. MCTKan
rpannua; 6. o6jia;iarb CBOÌÍCTBOM MarKocTn;
7. ncnojib3OBaTb tuia Oflexabi; 8. npoMHOCTb Ha pa3pb!B; 9. pa3H000 pa3ne
HCKyccTBeHHbix KOJK (accopTHMeHT); 10. OKOHnaTCJibHaa OT- flejiKa noBepxHOCTH
HCKVCCTBeiiHOH KOXH; 11. oueriHBaTb Koxy; 12. OTJIHHaTbCM nJlOTHOCTbJO
5. Divide the text into logical parts and find the topical sentence of each part.
6. Write a summary of the text using the topical sentences.

TEXT TWO

Read the text and say what new information it contains.

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 Coated Fabrics and Poromerics
Coated Fabrics. On coated fabrics, the coating provides the attractive finish and good wearing
properties, whereas the fabric provides most of the strength. The two main types of coated fabrics
are PVC-coated fabric and PlJ-coated fabric, pvc coatings are based on vinyl-paste techniques and
can be solid, expanded, or microporous. The fabric can be woven, knitted, or non-woven. PUCFs
consist of a thin solid PU film, an adhesive tie-coat, and a raised fabric base. PUCFs have a more
attractive appearance and handle than PVC-coatcd fabrics and are permeable. They are, however,
generally weaker, and the PU coating is less strong than PVC.
Poromerics. Poromerics have been described as third-generation synthetics. They come far
closer to the structure and performance of leather than do coated fabrics. Tile manufacture of a
completely synthetic material with moisture absorption and permeability properties similar to
natural leather was begun in the late 1930s, by the firm of du Pont. A poromeric material used in
footwear can be defined as “a man-made shoe-upper material generally similar in nature and
appearance to leather, with a comparable permeability to water vapour”.
The common features of poromerics are fabric reinforcement, a porous structure, and a surface
coating, usually of polyurethane which is also ]H nous. This porosity may be achieved either
mechanically with minute holes, or chemically.
Although most poromerics have some sort of fibrous layer or layers,
I hey are basically different from leather. Poromerics have their fibre Livers literally glued together,
whereas leather fibres need no binder to hold them. It is this property of course, that gives leather its
high permeability and absorbency and, because of the many air spaces around I he fibres, its
superior insulating properties.
1. Practise reading the passage entitled “Coated Fabrics” aloud.
2. Read the summary of the passage entitled “Poromerics” and say what details are missing in it.
Compare it to the text itself.

Poromerics
Poromerics are man-made shoe-upper materials that are, generally, imilar to leather and, in
particular, have a comparable permeability to Miter vapour. Common features of poromerics are
fabric reinforcement, I porous structure, and a porous coating. A wide range of production
techniques is used to manufacture poromerics.
3. Ask and answer the questions on the text. Work in pairs.
4. Find the key words which would reflect the main idea of the text.
5. Give a summary of the text using the key words.

TEXT THREE

Read the text. Match the Russian names of the upper materials with their English equivalents in the text:
1.3aMUiCBHOTbiii Marepitaji (ncKyccTBeHHan aaMina); 2. nopoMepbi (iiopitCTbtc
MaTepnajibt). 3. HCKyccTBenHaa Koxa c nojinypeTaHOBbiM HOKpbiTMCM (ypcTauncKoxa).
4. iieTKanbte MaTepnajibi/UIH Bepxa o6y- KII. 5. yperaHHCKoxa, nojiyMCHHaa MCTOAOM
KoaryjiflUHH (MeTOflOM ipaaoBoro paaae/iemm). 6. noAKJtamca B miTOMHOti nacTii
(KapxtaH .OJIH i.utHMKa)

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 Non-leather Uppers
.Man-made materials are now used extensively in the manufacture of lootwear. It is important
that the different types of materials used and I heir characteristics be known to the salesperson so
that accurate information is passed on to the customer. All footwear must carry a description of the
type of material used in the sole and the upper.
Over the past years the appearance and performance of non-leather lias improved to such an
extent that today’s materials have a most leather-like feel and appearance. Even experienced
salespeople find it difficult to differentiate between leather and synthetic uppers and find it
necessary to check the label.

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 PART THREE
BASICS OF SHOE DESIGN AND STYLING

UNIT ONE. SHOE STYLING

1. Read the international words and guess their meanings:

product, style, version, segment, period, designer, comfort, popular, method, to combine,
elegant, accurate, sport, contour
2. Translate the words of the same root. Say what parts of speech they belong to:
able — ability — disability; add — addition — additional — additionally; distort — distorted
— distortion — distortionless; flat — flat-footed — flatness — flatten; adjust — adjustable —
adjustability — adjusted — adjustment; stretch — stretchable — stretcher; imitate — imitation —
imitative —imitator
3. Form adjectives by adding the suffixes:
-able: comfort, suit, adjust, fashion
-al: addition, dimension, natur(e)
-ive: effect, decorat(e), act
-ent: differ, insist
-ic: period, history, economy
4. Form adverbs from adjectives by adding the suffix -ly and translate them into Russian. Use a
dictionary to check your translation:
proper, individual, complete, broad, large, high, great.
5. Arrange a) synonyms and b) antonyms in pairs and translate them into

a) shape, to affect, trend, form, to make, key (ứ), to attach, to influence, fashion, thin, to join, to
produce, slim, basic
b) open (fl),Russian: complicated, narrow, bottom, wide, undesired, upper, transparent,
closed, comfort, opaque, desired, simple, discomfort
6. Read and translate the sentences into Russian paying attention to the degrees of comparison: *
1. These shoes are the most comfortable. 2. Of the two hats, this one is the prettier. 3. These
boots are the least expensive of all. 4. Leather is better than synthetic materials. 5. The most
expensive is not necessarily the best. 6. Many women feel more comfortable in flat shoes. 7. They
are perfect for wearing with trousers and longer skirts.
7. Name a) the best material for shoe uppers; h) the hardest work for you; c) the hottest season of the
year; d) the worst day in your life; e) the most beautiful shoes you’ve seen.
8. Use the correct form of the adjective:
At fashion shows you will see (extraordinary) collection of footwear by some of (grand)
shoemakers. They offer a few alternatives to those who like to keep their feet a little (close) to the
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ground. It is (good) place for fashion reporters. You’ll see well-known models who have I good)
access to the world’s (elegant) shoes than the rest of US.
9. Read and translate the sentences into Russian. Pay attention to the construction the...the:
1. The more shoes she buys, the more shoes she wants. 2. The brighter I he colour, the better.
3. She preferred animal skins to gold, the rarer, the better. 4. The longer I look at the picture, the
more 1 like it. 5. The higher the heel, the slimmer your feet will look.
10. Translate the sentences with the emphatic construction it is (was)...that (who):
1. It was Ford who designed metal heels. 2. It was in 1988 when Berardi collection was stolen.
3. It is the 1980s that will be forever linked with the stiletto. 4. It was Ferragamo who made a pair
of 18- carat gold shoes. 5. It was thanks to Lomonosov that Moscow University was founded.
11. Define the meaning of the words in bold type:
I. He is the last person I want to see. 2. I spent last week in the country. 3. Leather belts will
last longer. 4. At last 1 bought brown shoes. 5. The machine was designed for stitching the parts of
the shoe upper. 6. The word “design” covers everything from the shape of the last to the colour and
texture of the materials. 7. They tried to widen their knowledge and experience of shoe design and
manufacture.
8. Vertical lines are characteristic of the Gothic style. 9. We are to develop several shoe designs for
the exhibition. 10. The Derby and Oxford styles differ in the way of joining the vamp and quarters.
11. After the University she will be a shoe designer/stylist.

T E X T ONE

Read the text and translate it into Russian. Use a dictionary if necessary.

Footwear Designing and Fashion

Designing is a very complex thing as it deals with the oldest of manmade commodities and it is
possible to trace through the centuries certain fundamental characteristics of it. At any time the
designer has to keep in mind three goals: the purpose, or what the article is made
for, the material, or what the article is made of, the method, or how the article is to be made.
But there is another important factor the designer should consider • while making boots and
shoes — that is, fashion: All design development comes from one of two sources. It is normally the
result of changes ill practical needs but it is often stimulated by the fashionable desire to have
something different.
Shoes not only reflect the personality of the wearer, they also reveal the character by showing
how the individual reacts to fashion. Of course, fashion is fugitive: at the very moment that a style
becomes fashionable it begins to die. Fashion works in cycles and spirals. It takes about twenty
years for a fashion to return, and whilst it is a fact that some ideas do come round again in their
due time, they come back in the way most suitable to a changed way of life and the technical
developments of the period. In more detail, shoes of every period tend to echo the fashion of that
period, both in colour and shape, so that when we have an elongated shape in clothes, shoes also
extend their toes to match. On the opposite, fashions of the Tudors were square and broad and toe
shapes followed the same directions and were broad and square loo. The raised heel was created
for protection against dirty streets and it was also very definitely a response to a change in fashion
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mood.
What does consumer want in footwear today? Style? Comfort? Utility? Value?
A key element in answering these questions for the footwear manufacturer is the role of
designers, sometimes called line builders or product developers, who design new shoes. A good
designer is the link between consumer requirements and a manufacturer’s production capability
and profitability.
Today’s consumer is conscious of styling, quality in materials, craftsmanship, durability and
comfort. These days we take comfort for granted but for majority of people well-fitting footwear
became possible only with the advent of mass production, which evolved in its modern sense in
the United States at the end of the nineteenth century. Life is not only a matter of comfort,
however, and it is not the fit of shoes but their style that can give us the feeling that we have
wings on, even if, in reality, we are being crippled. Like all clothes, shoes affect our selfesteem. if
they are stylish, we feel stylish, and forget about comfort.
Today the search for style has taken over from the desire to be fashionable. The ultimate
effect of fashion is to make everyone look alike; having style means accept tlie broad flow of
fashion but making it individual to oneself.
Price, of course, is always a consideration, but it may not be an overriding factor when other
requirements are met. Given the informed approach of the contemporary consumer, it is up to the
designer to pinpoint specific desires.
1. Practise reading the text aloud.
2. Read the text again and answer the following questions:
1. What does designing deal with? 2. What should a designer consider while making boots? 3.
How does fashion work? 4. What do shoes of every period reflect? 5. What is the role of designers?
6. What do consumers want in footwear today?
3. Read the text, divide it into logical parts and entitle each part so as to make a plan.
4. Write out 1) the key words, 2) the sentences expressing the main idea of each logical part.
5. Retell the text according to your plan, the key words and the sentences you have written out.
6. “There is a strong relationship between shoes and the clothes with which they are worn.” Give
some facts to prove this.
7. Do you think it is enough to follow a fashion trend to be up with the fashion? What else should be
taken into consideration?
8. Look through foreign magazines on footwear and speak on present trends in footwear.
9. What do you want in footwear? Style? Comfort?

TEXT TWO
Read the text and entitle it.
There is a rather vague distinction between style and design in common parlance, but in the
footwear trade the word “design” covers everything from the shape of the last to the colour and
texture of the materials.
“Style”, however, is given a more specific meaning, how the upper is constructed and what is
the mode of fastening.
Mass production enables shoe manufacturers to produce new styles at competitive prices, but all
these styles arc, in fact, variations on themes. In non-specialist terms there are eight basic footwear
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types from which all men’s and women’s styles are created. The Oxford is a laced shoe, with its
vamp stitched to the quarters, which are joined by the lacing. In the Derby, also known as the
Gibson, the vamp continues under the quarters to form a tongue over which the laces are tied. The
Brogue is similar to the Oxford, but is heavily pinked and perforated where the vamp and quarters
meet and has decorative additions. The d'Orsay dips to a V at either side of the shoe. The Pump is
the lowest cut of all styles (Fig. 6). The feminine version, with a high heel, is known in the UK as a
Court. The Boot is a style, which normally reaches above the ankle, but it includes the Jodhpur,
which reaches to the ankle. The Moccasin, originally made of buckskin, is the archetype for all slip-
on footwear. It is low-cut at the sides with a raised, stitched vamp. The Sandal is an open shoe held
on the foot by straps or thongs.

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 PART FOUR
PARTS OF A SHOE. SHOE TYPES AND STYLES

UNIT ONE. SHOE FUNCTIONS

1. Read the international words. Give two Russian equivalents:

Model, to control -»KOHTpotiHpoBâTb, perynnpoBaĩb

to fix, to produce, to modify, to separate, primitive, region, to combine, effect, to limit, to adapt,
to refine, version, reason, standard, conductor, decoration, office, texture
2. Check up if you remember the following words:
to raise, to putrefy, to tan, to flex, to close, to vary, to fasten, to put on, to tie, to lace, to cut, to
differ, to wear, to cover, to be intended for, to shape, a fabric, a hide, a rawhide, clothing, a purpose,
quality, leather, square
3. Guess the meanings of the words in bold type:
a shoe — an overshoe; a force — to reinforce; long — to elongate; to cut — to cut out, to cut
away; to close — to enclose
4. Find synonyms among the following words:
method, strong, to alter, to show, purpose, to make, to change, to retain, form, simple, cloth, to
indicate, durable, to keep, shape, to evolve, aim, decoration, primitive, to modify, technique, fabric,
to vary, ornament, to develop
5. Translate the following sentences into Russian. Fay attention to the forms of the verb given in bold
type:
1. It was a shoe laced with a ribbon. The vamp is stitched on top of the quarters. This is a shoe
with a closed waist. The bond required will not reach its maximum strength until at least 48 hours
after sole laying. Features of a well-designed and made insole are... .
2. The material must be capable of retaining its original shape. Tanning is the process of
converting the pdh into a non-putrescible material. Greeks were definitely using preservative
properties of bark and leaves. Designing modem shoes takes into consideration the details of ancient
footwear.
3. To protect the sole of the foot from the heat and cold is one of the primary shoe functions.
This shoe is named after Count D’Orsay who is said to have invented it. Making the upper includes
several operations to make a complete top covering. Before skins can be used by man, [hey have to
be processed, tanned and finished. Chamois used to be processed from the skin of the mountain
antelope. Chamois is the earliest leather to care for. The most convenient way to check the
temperature of the adhesive film is to use temperature-indicating crayons.

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 TEXT ONE

Read the text. Entitle each paragraph of the text in Russian.

Shoes
1. The purpose of shoes is to protect the sole and the upper part of the foot from extremes of the
heat and cold, from wet and dirt, from rough ground and from dangers such as animal and insect
bites. The simplest means of doing this was either to fix an additional layer or sole under the foot (in
the form of a sandal) or to close the foot in a bag of material (as a kind of moccasin). For climatic
reasons, primitive sandals were generally developed in hot countries and the moccasin in colder,
northern regions. At some point these two forms of footwear were combined and modified to
produce what can be properly called a shoe: that is, a closed covering for the upper part of the foot
attached to a separate sole.
2. The word “shoe” can be used as a general term for footwear but a distinction can be made
between the shoe and the boot. The boot covers a part of the leg as well as the foot, while the shoe
covers only the foot. At some periods overshoes (in the form of pattens or galoshes) have also been
worn to protect both the feet and shoes from damp and dirt.
3. Apart from its protective function the shoe has served to complete or enhance male and
female costume (sometimes contributing a very decorative effect) and has been used to indicate rank
or office. As with other items of Western clothing shoes have altered with fashion; in the course of
its history, the shoe has varied quite considerably in shape and appearance. The formation of the foot
and the essentially functional nature of the shoe imposes some limitations on footwear design but
the main features of sole, toe, heel and fastening can be adjusted to produce different effects.
4. The shape of the sole is probably the most striking feature of the shoe and the toe can range
from a sharp point to a blunt square. The sole can also be elongated, beyond the natural length of the
foot. The back part of the sole itself has altered very little, but at the very end of the sixteenth
century it began to be raised and the heel came into general use. Since then, the shape and the height
of the shoe has varied considerably with the use of different forms of heels.

5. Il is possible to make shoes and boots in such an easy fitting style that they can be put on or
pulled off without any means 1)1 loosening or tightening them (Wellington boots and women’s com
I shoes, for example); but most footwear is more comfortable and adaptable with some type of
fastening. Bools and shoes can be opened and closed by buttons, ties, laces, buckles or elasticated
gussets. The appearance of the “upper” will differ according to the method used and the fastenings
themselves can be made to look decorative. Eighteenth-century shoe buckles, in particular, became
ornaments in their own right and were designed to be worn as pieces of jewellery. Shoes can, of
course, be decorated in other ways: they can be made in different colours and the uppers patterned
with punched or cut-out designs, embroidery or ribbons.
1. Say whether the following statements are true or false:
1. The purpose of shoes is to protect the sole and the upper part of the foot. 2. Primitive sandals
were generally developed in colder, northern regions and the moccasin in hot countries. 3. The shoe
covers the part of the leg as well as the foot, while the boot covers only the foot. 4. The only
function of the shoe is a protective one. 5. In the course of its history, the shoe has varied very little
in shape and appearance. 6. The main features of sole, toe, heel and fastening can be adjusted to
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produce different effects. 7. At the very end of the sixteenth century the back part of the sole began
to be raised. 8. The only function of fastening is to loosen or tighten footwear.
2. Answer the following questions:
1. What is the main purpose of shoes? 2. What was the simplest means of protecting feet? 3.
Where were primitive sandals and the moccasin developed? Why? 4. What is the general meaning of
the term “shoe”? 5. What is “a shoe” in its specific meaning?-6. What is the difference between the
boot and the shoe? 7. What were the functions of the shoe historically? 8. In what way can different
effects be achieved in the shoe? 9. What is the most striking feature of the shoe? Why? 10. When
did the heel come into general use? 11. What types of shoe fastenings do you know? 12. How can
shoes be decorated?
3. Find the English equivalents in the text for the following Russian word- combinations:
1. OT PC3KHX nepenajtoB TeMnepaTypbi; 2. no KJiHMaTMMecKMM npit- MHHaM; 3.
Kpo.Me cBoefi 3amnTHOH ỘVHKUHH; 4. cawaa ynHBMTejibHafl enocoÕHOCTb OÕVBII; 5.
npeBbimafl eerecTBeHHyio fljtHHy CTonbi;
6. Bcioay CTann HOCHTb oõyBb Ha KafvtyKe; 7. B caMOM KOHLte XVI BCKa, 8. caenaTb
TỴỘjtM H canorĩt raK, MToõbt OHH JierKO HajteBajiHCb H CHH- MajiHCb; 9. B
3HBMCHMOCTM OT ncno,Tb3yeMoro MCTOfla
4. Find the topical sentence in each paragraph of the text to w rite a summary. Reproduce it in
English.
TEXT TWO

Head the text and say what new information it contains.

The Purpose of Shoes

The shoe has several functions to perform through the years. The primary functions are:
1. To protect the sole of the foot from the heat, cold, dampness, or roughness of the ground in
walking and standing. In its simplest form, I his is achieved in primitive sandal, which is nothing
more than a piece of leather, wood or other material, fixed under the foot by a strap or other means.
2. To protect the upper part of the foot and, if required, the leg from cold weather, rain, thorns
and so on. In its simplest form, this is a bag of leather or material wrapped round the foot and it is
given the name of moccasin.
3. To assist the foot to perform some abnormal task. This includes the various sports such as
football, cricket, hockey, running, fishing, riding, dancing, etc., all of which today have their own
special footwear.
4. To complete a costume. This is particularly important today when costume designing
includes not only dress but also hat, shoes, gloves and handbag.
1. Practise reading the text aloud.
2. Ask and answer the questions on the text. Work in pairs.

TEXT THREE

Read the text without using a dictionary and suggest a title for it.
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 The general appearance of the shoe is, to a large extent, governed by the purpose for which it is
intended. Dress shoes are usually light and decorative while heavyweight high shoes and boots are
used for outdoor wear and certain kinds of work. Until the nineteenth century, boots were more
often worn by men than women, especially for riding and fighting. Shoes for indoor wear and
particularly for dancing need to be light and flexible, not only for the comfort of the wearer but to
safeguard carpets and floors. Hard, sturdy leathers arc used for practical boots and shoes and the
softer, finer grades — for indoor or dress wear; uppers of silk, velvet and cloth (with light leather
soles) may also be worn and are used for slippers. At some periods, rank or status was indicated by
the type of decoration of the footwear worn. Senators in Republican Rome, for instance, wore black
shoes while magistrates wore red. Shoes of the nobility in the early and later Middle Ages appear
also to have been distinguished by shape and elaborate decoration. In the eighteenth century

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 3.
A'. I think I’ll take this pair of black shoes.
B: You’d better not. They won’t match your .new dress.
A-. 1 can’t agree with you. Black goes well with all colours.
5. Make up the dialogues of your own. Use the following introductory phrases:
What can I do for you? Are you being served? I’d like to have... . Could you show me... .
May I have a look... .
How about this one? I’m not quite sure whether... .

UNIT TWO. PARTS OF A SHOE

1. Check up if you remember the following words:

top, seam, foot — feet, to attach, to last, to stitch, to insert, to cover — covering, feature, various,
to join, to cut shape, to mould, pattern
2. Read these terms correctly and try to memorize them:
coiQ3Ka
õepeit (õcpiibi)
OTpe3HOÌÍ HOCOK
1. vamp nOAHOCOK
2. quarter 3aAHHKa
3. cap xecTKHíi 33AHHK, xecTKaa AeTaab oõy-
4. puff BH
5. counter AeTaait Bcpxa oõyBH, pacnoaoxeHHWC
6. stiffener Bbiute COỈO3KH <
BepXHHỈÍ K3HT
7. top
BbipC3 COỈO3KM
noAKaaAOMHaa TKaHb
8. top line HaKaaAHOlt K3HT
9. throat
ộpoHT Kaõayxa
10. lining
Haõoi-íKa (jcad/iyKa)
11. collar
12. breast
riATKa, nHTOAHaa uacTb, jumtic (Ka6jiy-
13. top-piece (heel-lift,
KÒ)
heel-piece, heel-tap)
noAOUiBa, noAMeTKa
14. seat
reaeMOK
nepeftMa, nepcHMeHHaa (reaeHOAHaa)
15. sole
AacTb oõyBH
16. shank
BKaaAHaa CTeabKa, noAnaTOAHMK
17. waist
CBOA (cmonbi), noAt>e.M (KOAOỜKÙ) rpaub
KOAOAKH, Kpaii 3aTa>KHoit KPOM- KH
18. sock
oõyBtỉ
19. arch
20. feather edge TEXT ONE
Read the text and say what the upper and the
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 bottom mean. Read the text aloud.

All Elementary Shoe

The parts of a shoe, the components, can be broadly grouped into those which make up the upper
and those which form the sole and heel, or bottom.
The upper is the assembly of the various pieces and reinforcements that are used to cover and
support the top of the foot. The upper usually consists of a greater area of material than is actually
needed to cover the top of the foot: the excess is known as the lasting allowance. It is most often
sandwiched between the insole and mid or outsole to secure the upper into place.
A simple upper consists of three basic parts: the vamp, which covers the toes and front of the
foot, and the quarters, which enclose the back portion of the foot.
The upper can also refer to a lining which covers the inside of the upper portion of a shoe.
The bottom is the part of a shoe sole, from toe to heel breast, usually in contact with the
wearing surface.
Th’e sole of a shoe consists of a number of layers. The insole is one of these layers, and it lies on
the inside of a shoe, directly beneath the foot. It may be covered with a lining or an insole sock
which separates it from the foot.
There are two fundamental types of insole: flat and ribbed. Flat insoles are used in cement-
constructed shoes where the outsole is cemented to the shoe upper. Ribbed insoles are used in welt-
constructed shoes where the upper is stitched to the outsole through the ribbed insole.
The midsole is another layer of sole, lying between the insole and outsole.
The outsole is the outermost layer of the sole. It may be thicker than the other layers, because it
is subject to direct contact with walking surfaces.
A welt is a narrow strip of soling material which is stitched to the upper and insole. This then
becomes the anchor point for the outsole, usually by stitching, but sometimes by cement attaching.
A shank is the part of the sole of the shoe between the heel and the ball. Also, a long piece of
wood, leather, steel, or plastic placed between insole and sole from the heel seat forward, intended to
support the shank area of the shoe and the arch of the foot.
1. Answer the following questions:
1. How can the parts of a shoe be grouped? 2. What is the upper? 3. What parts does the simple
upper consist of? 4. What is the bottom?

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5. Are there two fundamental types of insole? 6. Where does the instill lie? 7. Why is the outsole
thicker than the other layers of the soil
8. What is the welt? 9. What is the shank? 10. What material is the shall! • made of?
2. Write out the definitions of the shoe terms given in Text One and nanii them to your groupmate.

TEXT TWO

Read the text and memorize the shoes parts (Fig. 10).
Counter

Collar

Shank

seat

Heel

Heel lift
Outsole

Fig. 10. Anatomy of a Shoe

Parts of a Shoe '
A shoe is generally composed of an upper and a bottom (a sole anti a heel). The upper is that
part which covers the foot, put in one piece with a seam at the back, or into two or three pieces
according to the cul of the pattern and its economics.
The upper has three main parts — the vamp and the quarters.
The vamp is the part of the upper which covers the front of the foot, as far as the back of the
joint of the big toe.
The quarter is the part of the back of the upper which covers the heel; the back of the shoe,
as far as the point where it meets the vamp. It is so called because it is a quarter of the whole.
The cap. The toe cap can often be of a different material or colour from the rest of the shoe,
or match it, according to fashion.
The puff is the light reinforcing inside the upper. It gives the toe its shape and support.
The counter is the overlaid piece at the back of the upper corresponding to the toe cap. It can
be of a different colour or material.
The stiffener is the inside stiffening of the upper, covering the heel .Hid giving the back of the
shoe support. Unlike the puff, it can seldom he dispensed with.
The top line is the top edge of the upper. No matter, what its shape 1)1' height, it is called the
top line.
The throat is the front of the vamp.
The lining. A shoe is partly or wholly lined, or left unlined.
The heel. The bottom has also two main parts — the heel and the • ole. These have different
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names which have been given them either for I lieir shape, or after the person of fashion with whom
they are associated. I leels have subdivisions of their own and have separate parts.
The breast is the front of the heel under the arch.
The top-piece is the part of the heel which comes in contact with the 1'round corresponding to
the sole. It is called the “top" piece because, in making, the shoe is worked upside down, so that the
bottom of the heel, as it stands on the ground, becomes the top.
The seat is the concave part of the heel that fits to the shoe end into which the heel of the foot
sits.
The sole is that piece of leather or other material which comes in contact with the ground.
The insole is a piece of leather, or other material between the sole and the foot, on to which the
upper is lasted. In making, it lies closest to the last. The layman should not confuse it with the sock.
The shank gives the foot support and the shoe strength. In modern shoemaking there is nearly
always a piece of metal inserted between the sole and the insole, lying along the arch of the foot.
The waist is the part of the last and the shoe which corresponds to the instep and the arch of the
foot.
The feather is the part of the last and the shoe where the upper’s edge meets the sole.
1. Answer the following questions:
1. What are the main parts of the shoe upper? 2. What is the vamp? 3. What is the quarter? 4.
What are other parts of the upper? 5. What is the difference between a counter and a stiffener? 6.
What are the main parts of the shoe bottom? 7. What separate parts do heels have?
8. Where is the shank placed? 9. What is the function of the shank?
2. Find the English equivalents in the text for the following Russian word- combinations:
I. 0Tpe3H0Ỉí HOCOK; 2. npwtaTb TBepaocTb rtHTouHOH uacTO oõytỉn; 3. Me^nontcna^Ka; 4.
oÕỴBb c noAKJiajiKoii M 6ecrioflKJiano'iHan 00VBb; 5. rpaHb 3awKH0h KpoMKH; 6.
HaõoỉíKa; 7. BK.rian.Haa cTenhKa; 8. reaeHOK;
9. LteabHOKpoeHaa; 10. 0Tpe3H0íí HOCOK; 11. xecTKHii 3a/tHHK; 12. COỈO3- Ka; 13. ộpỏHT
KaOjiyKa; 14. 3annHKa; 15. bepeu; 16. Jiannc (KciẫiyKa)
3. Take a shoe and show your partner all the parts of the upper and the bottom. Make your partner
name them in English.

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 nojiyboTHHOK c HaCTpOHHblMH õepil.l MM
4. Derby shoe BbixottHaa HapmtHaa oõyBb xeHCKaa oõyBb
THrra «jioflOMKa» TVljeiM c OTKpblTOỈÍ
5. dress shoe nHTOHHOM Hacri.lt, xeHCKaa TyrJjJifi Tuna
6. court shoe «rjiy0OKaa J1O 4OHKa»
7. sling back court JIO^OHKa c pe3MHOBOỈÍ BCTaBKOM
8. a step-in type of shoe JIO/IOHKa c OCTpoir 3arHyTOM HOCO'I HOỈÍ
with a high-cut front HaCTblO
9. gusset court shoe nOJTybOTHHOK c HaCTpOHHbIMM nCTJBI
10. jester court shoe MM ujiii npoaeprHBaHHH untypKOB xeHCKaa
TyỘTia c OTKPWTOM nepcii MeHHOH
11. ghillie (reJieHOHHOH) HacTbio («;te jiẽHKa»)

12. D’Orsay
TEXT ONE

Before reading the text say in Russian what types of shoes you know.

Types of Shoes
In addition to the general terms which apply to all shoes no matter what their quality and
purpose, there are various names for the different basic types of shoes. These names often have
historical origins and arc so called because of their associations with the people who first made them
fashionable.
The tie shoe is probably the most basic of shoe shapes, it has several basic styles and each has a
name. The most well-known are:
The Oxford can easily be distinguished because the vamp is stitched on top of the quarters and
facings which carry the eyelet holes anil laces. Its name is historically associated with the students
of Oxford University. It is a type of tie shoe and is worn by men and women alike.
The Derby again is easily identified because its facings and quarters are overlaid and stitched on
to the vamp; the reverse of the Oxford. Like the Oxford it generally has a tongue in classic styles. It
is worn by men and women. Its name is associated with the Earl of Derby.
The Ghillie is a very old style whose shape goes back to the earliesi periods in our history. It is
characterized by the separate facings for each lace and eyelet, which can be looped or not according
to the fashion. It takes its name from the ghillies who accompany a shoot.
There arc many variations on these three themes, most of whose names are self-descriptive,
invented as the occasion arose. For example, the U-Throated Tie; the Saddle Oxford; the Lamballe
Tie, which was a shoe laced with a ribbon tied through a single eyelet and name after
Princess de Lamballe (1749—1792), friend of Marie-Antoinette. The cap and counter styles speak
for themselves, but not necessarily confined II) lie shoes, neither to the term “brogues” which is a
method of describing a pattern of stitching and punching on a fairly classic style of shoe.
Next is the court shoe, the plainest of all shoes, which bears the same name whatever its height
of heel. It is so called because it was a plain shoe similar to that accepted at the courts of Europe.
There are variations on this shape also. They are Opera, D’Orsay, Sling Back, Gusset and Jester
Courts.
The D’orsay court is a vamp and quarter court with an open waist. Il can be made on any heel
height. It is named after Count D’Orsay who is said to have invented it.
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 The gusset court shoe is any step-in type of shoe with a high cut front made accessible by an
elastic which can be inserted at the front or sides.
The jester court is a shoe of any heel height with a peaked front. It was fashionable in 1941, but
originates from the jester shoe of the Middle Ages.
The opera court is another vamp and quarter court but with a closed waist. The upper is cut in
three basic parts. The same cut, applied to a man’s slipper, is a basic shape in masculine footwear.
The moccasin was originally the soft deerskin shoe of the American Indians but now has many
modern variants.
1. Say whether the following statements are true or false:
1. The tic shoe is probably the most basic of shoe shapes. 2. In Oxford shoes the vamp is
stitched on top of the quarters and facings. 3. Oxford shoes are worn only by men. 4. There is no
difference between the Oxford and the Derby styles. 5. The Ghillie is a very old style characterized
by the separate facings for each lace and eyelet. 6. The D’Orsay court is a vamp and quarter court
with a closed waist. 7. The gusset court shoe is any step-in type of shoe with a high-cut front. 8. The
upper of the opera court shoe is cut in two basic parts.
2. Answer the following questions:
1. What basic styles do the tie shoes have? 2. What is the difference between the Oxford and the
Derby? 3. Who is the name of the Oxford associated with? 4. What is the ghillie style characterized
by? 5. What is the origin of the name “the court shoe”? 6. What are the variations of the court shoe?
7. What is the difference between the D’Orsay court and the opera court? 8. When was the jester
court fashionable?
3. Fill in blank spaces in the following table with the shoe terms from the text corresponding to each
column:

Type Style Variation

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 4. Speak on different types of shoes using Fig. 17 and the table given abox What season are these
shoes intended for?
Tie Shoes

Fig. 17. Types of Shoes

TEXT TWO
*
Read the text to get additional information about types of shoes. Use a dictionary if necessary.

The boot is an outer covering for the foot made of leather or rubber, covering the ankle. The
high boot is a boot reaching to the knee. The bootee is originally an infant’s knitted wool boot.
The brogue is originally a rawhide shoe worn in the mountains of Scotland and Ireland. In
more modern times brogues are flat-heeled; l.icc-up, leather shoes decorated by perforations,
decorative stitching and gimped edging.
 The casual is a shoe for informal occasions.
The clog is a shoe with a wooden sole.
The co-respondent is a two-tone shoe made of white buckskin or coloured leather
fashionable in the inter-war years.
The espadrille is the traditional rope-soled, canvas shoe, tied round I he ankle, worn by
Spaniards and the French of the Mediterranean and Pyrenean areas.
The Loafer is a heelless Norwegian slipper shoe introduced in 1940. It’s the casual with a
saddle but no elastic or fastening.
The Monk is the usual name for a plain-fronted shoe fastened by a strap and buckle on the
outer side of the instep, sometimes a fringed leather flap covers this fastening.
The mule is a heelless slipper.
The peep-toe is a shoe cut away in front to display (to show) part of the toes.
The pump is a kind of light court shoe of soft, shiny leather, usually heelless or with a fairly
(rather) low heel, worn with a dress and for dancing.
The saddle shoe is a two-tone Oxford with an ornamental strip across the instep.
The slipper is a loose-fitting light shoe worn in the house.
The sneaker is an American term for a canvas shoe with a rubber or rope sole which enables
a person to walk silently.
The veldtshoen comes from veldt shoe. Originally it was a South- African shoe of untanned
hide made so that the edges of the upper were turned outwards to form a flange which was
stitched on to the sole or middle sole. In a welted veldtshoen construction the lining is welted to I
he insole and the flanged upper stitched to welt and sole.
The wedge-sole is a shoe where a wedge-shaped piece of cork, wood or plastic is inserted
under the shoe in order to make heel and sole in one solid piece.
The Wellington — named after the Duke was introduced in the early nineteenth century. In
military wear it was a high, black leather boot extending above the knee in front and cut away at
the back in a square to enable the knee to be bent while on horseback. A somewhat shorter
version was worn under the trousers by most men for much of the nineteenth century. This was
also of black leather, but softer, and reaching to just below the knee. It had a slender, square toe
and a low heel. The waterproof rubberized version of the Wellington boot in half or full length is
of similar style but can now be obtained in all colours.
1. Ask and answer the questions on the text. Work in pairs.
2. Draw sketches of the main types of shoes.
such as scars from barbed wire or those caused by disease. It is there foil essential that the
clickers (cutters) examine the material thoroughly before cutting. The actual cutting
operation in the past was done with a hand-held knife. Today, with improved technology,
press cutting takes its place. The press knife, made of strip steel, is the actual pattern which
“stamps out” the leather under hydraulic pressure. After all the components have been cut,
they are sorted for quality. Great care has to be taken by the clicker to ensure that the least
possible amount ol material is wasted.
The next step is the skiving of the leather edge. The purpose of this is to thin the leather
at the edge, so that the seams will not be bulky when sewn together. This, of course, makes
a shoe comfortable to wear.
The leather has then to be marked (usually with a white type of ink) to give the sewing
machinists a guide to work to. The leather components then go to the closing room.
Once the uppers are closed (stitched together) they enter a humidifying chamber so that
moisture can be forced into the leather, to increase its suppleness.
After this, the uppers arc pulled onto the last and then go through a hot drying cabinet or
drum which removes the moisture from the leather and this in turn causes the leather to
tighten on the last. This process ensures that the leather keeps its shape when the last is
removed.
The soles are then cemented to the shoes and the heels attached using special nails, or
staples. When all the above operations are completed, the shoes pass to the shoe room.
Socks are then fitted and the shoes cleaned, sprayed and examined, prior to boxing.
Make a chart of the text to give the sequence of manufacturing operations ill shoemaking (at
least 17 in number). Define the purpose of each operation. Compare the charts. Choose the best
one. Speak on the sequence of manufacturing operations in shoemaking.

TEXT THREE

Read the text to get acquainted with the organization of production at a typical shoe factory
which has the following shoemaking departments:
Shoe Designing. Shoe designing is originating and modifying designs for footwear,
taking into account the last, materials and construction to be used.
Pattern Cutting. It is a skilled process by which the design is converted into the
working patterns of all the* components, e.g., upper, lining, reinforcements, insole and sole,
which make up the shoe. Only the patterns for the model size shoe are made at this stage.
When samples of the upper have been approved, the full range of patterns — in the form
of knives for press work and as edge-bound boards for hand cutting — are produced and
graded into sizes and fittings.

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 Sampling. At this stage samples of the upper, called pullovers, arc made up
on the model last for approval and/or modification.
Upper Material Room. The upper material room controls the ordering,
buying and storage of upper materials.
Clicking Room. This is where the upper materials and linings are cut, either
by hand or press.
Closing Room. The parts of the upper and linings are prepared and stitched
or welded together. The upper is marked for stitching and decorations.
Reinforcements, eyelets, etc. are inserted.
Bottom Stock Preparation. Insoles, soles, if not ordered from outside
makers, are cut by press.
Making Room. The components of the shoe are assembled, insole attached,
uppers lasted, shoe components, stiffeners, toe puffs, shanks, are put in and the
soles and heels are attached.
Finishing Room. The shoe undergoes various finishing operations such as
sole heel trimming, colouring, spraying, etc.
Shoe Room. Final touching up, cleaning, ironing cut creases, socking,
lacing, inspection and boxing are done at this stage.
Dispatch involves packaging and routing to warehouse, wholesaler,
distributor, etc.

Projects
1 1

Suppose that:
1. Together with a group of shoemaking students you are visiting a shoe factory
to get acquainted with its main shoemaking departments and various manufacturing
operations in action. Ask questions on the points you are interested in.
2. You are a technologist at the shoe factory. You are showing the group of
shoemaking students around the main departments of your factory. Answer the
questions which you will be asked.
Use the information of the previous texts.

TEXT FOUR

Read the text and name the methods of shoe construction mentioned below.

Shoe Constructions

The text is a brief run-down of the essential features of the various

constructions.
The term “construction” is very clearly defined as the method of attaching
the sole to the upper. Ill present-day manufacture the most usual construction is
cemented, more commonly known as “stuck-on”.
Soles of synthetic rubber or of leather can be pre-finished and then attached
with an adhesive in a simple and efficient procedure to give a
neat and lightweight appearance. Such a bond is usually quite watcrpli" >1 or at
least as waterproof as the materials of upper and sole.
We should not forget that many shoes with moulded soles are al'.H stuck-on
because it has become more and more Convenient to buy I'll moulded units and
stick them on than to mould direct on.
This is certainly true of many of the sports shoes and trainers will! Il have
specially moulded units of a new plastic called thermoplastic rubln I These were a
problem to stick when first developed and the direct moulded method was
preferred. Now improved adhesives are available and this large section of the
market has become part of the stuck-on category.
Stuck-on shoes are light and neat in appearance, reasonably durable, easily
repairable and in most cases quite flexible. The stuck-on construction is quite
adequate for the majority of women’s shoes and also a laifi section of the men’s
trade where a lightweight single sole is called for
The one lightweight shoe which does not lend itself to stuck-011 I the
moccasin. This construction has the upper passing completely undii the foot in the
forepart and the absence of a firm insole in the forepai I means that the upper has a
tendency to peel upwards away from 11 II stuek-on bond.
It is, therefore, policy to put a row of stitching as near as possible III the edge
of the shoe for added security, this sewn seam requires the last to be taken out
and the Blake sewer is used which has a horn that goes inside the shoe.
The fact that the machine needle penetrates the sole and the upper means
that moccasins are inclined to let in the wet, although they am extremely
flexible, soft and comfortable. Often the very best material' are used and
moccasins can command a high price, but customer, should be warned that they
are not very waterproof.
One of the strange facts of the footwear trade is that lower-priced shoes are
often the most waterproof and also the more durable. The direct-moulded
construction with soles of rubber or plastic is always waterproof up to the top of
the sole line and this is usually enough fill general town wear and the average wet
pavement.
The direct-moulded shoe is easily recognizable by the line down the back of
the heel which shows where the side moulds meet. This method lends itself to
mass production and expanded dramatically in the sixties, being reasonably
priced and very good value. It is still the natural choice for non-fashion items
such as school shoes, work boots and also football boots but the overall total
now shows a tendency to decline as more anil more customers demand quick
changing fashion.
The traditional method for making men’s footwear is the welted construction
which consists of a welt joined to the upper and insole by a chainstitch seam and
then the sole is attached to the welt by a lockstitch seam.
The very nature of the construction means that there is more bottom filling and
the result is that the shoe is somewhat heavier, probably less
Fig. 34. The cemented (Direct Stuck) Construction Using Pre-finished Soles

PVC Injection Moulding

Process

Fig. 35. Injection-Moulded PVC

 flexible but with the advantage that there is more insulation between the foot
and the ground. This insulation makes a special contribution to fool comfort
keeping the foot warm ill cold conditions and cool ill hot weallii I
The welted shoe is readily repairable and although not gencralh claimed to
be waterproof, its extended edge and rugged appearance make it a favourite with
the more conservative males.
We cannot leave the .subject of constructions without a mention of Ilk
vcldtschoen. This is another construction not noted for waterproofness The
method of turning the upper outwards to be stitched down gives a very light and
flexible shoe ideally suited for desert boots and children’s sandal'.
The very name veldtschoen means “bush shoe” and they are sometimes
called safari boots. With uppers of soft suede they arc populai in summer but ill
wet weather they would be better left in tile cupboard
1. Read the text to choose a proper shoe construction for your project.
2. Study the (low charts (Figs. 34 and 35) for the main methods of construction.
Choose the method you are going to use ill your project. Describe the basic
sequence of operations required for the method you have chosen (in writing).

Project
3. Develop a shoe design. Draw a sketch of the shoe. Define its purpose. Choose
appropriate materials and construction for producing it. Give a detailed
description of your development. Present your project for discussion and
approval. Use the above texts as a basis for preparing your project. Good
luck to you!

TIẾNG ANH CHUYÊN NGÀNH KỸ THUẬT DỆT

Technical English for Textile Engineering

Part 2. English of Leather Goods Design and Technology

Người biên soạn: TS. Nguyễn Ngọc Thắng

Bộ môn: Vật liệu & CN Hoá dệt
Điện thoại: 0904 309930
 PART SỈX
ACCESSORIES

1. Read the international words and guess their meanings:

elegant, gentleman, costume, formal. Italy, accessory, popular, office,
illusion, ornament, metal, television
2. Translate the words of the same root. Say to what parts of speech they belong.
apply —application —applicable; long — length —lengthen; add- addition
—additional; differ —difference —different —differently; colou r—coloured —
colourful — col ourless; enibro Ider—embroidere r— embroidery; produce—
producer—product — production — productive; select—selection — seleetional
— selective; nature — natural — naturalitv; simple —simplicity —simplify
3. Check up if you remember the following words:
handbag, to care, casual, embroidery, to shape, suit, appearance, output,
perfume, to fasten, custom, pumps, stretch, to cover, skin, jewellery
4. Arrange a) synonyms and b) antonyms ill pairs and translate them into
Russian:
a) bad, simple, fabric, to select, nice, ancient, good, to look for, pretty, old,
easy, materia], to choose, to search
b) black, last, natural, thick, light, white, synthetic, short, first, close- fitting,
without, heavy, loose-fitting, thin, with, long
5. Memorize the following definitions:
1. A glove is a shaped covering for the hand with usually a separate sheath
for each finger. 2. A scarf is a piece of material worn round the neck for warmth
or decoration. 3. A necklace is ornamentation encircling the neck in the form of
beads, metals or jewels. 4. A shawl is a square or rectangular piece of material
worn round the shoulders. 5. A hat is the head covering for both men and
women.
6. Translate the sentences, paying attention to different meanings of the words
too and like:
1. If you get too hot, you can take your hat and gloves off. 2. She likes her
shoes to be cut lower in front. 3. Make sure your shoes aren’t too tight. 4. You
can buy accessories like hosiery, handbags and jewellery

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TIẾNG ANH CHUYÊN NGÀNH KỸ THUẬT DỆT
Technical English for Textile Engineering

Part 2. English of Leather Goods Design and Technology

Người biên soạn: TS. Nguyễn Ngọc Thắng

Bộ môn: Vật liệu & CN Hoa dệt
Điện thoại: 0904 309930

s. G. ữíEiỄkửM, ĨẸ. ụ. KjiiSiwJ, H. K. ĩíỉSứtỉ

ENGLISH
I.EAĨHER GOODS DESIGN AND
TECHNOLOGY

í r. ỉ. Ệ-- H- K,
ỈOSKOM

AHIY1HÍỈCKHĨÌ H3blK
KứhCtpyHPtì»AMHE H TEXỊIŨ.IŨÍ™
El WJUlft H3 K0JKH
HaTHHVTbiu; 5. rưiOTHO oõxBarbiBaTb; 6. CBOÕoAHbiM (JipocTopHbiii). 7.
AOCTaTOHHo; 8. nepxaĩbCB (Ha Horc) npn xo/ibõe; 9. BCTaBHTb (BIUHTI ) (2); 10.
oõxoaHTbCB Õe3; 11. eAHHCTBeiiHO (TO.TbKo); 12. õbiTb npn roaHbiM
(rojtHTbcn); 13. B cooTBeTCTBỴiomeM M6CTC
2. Practise reading the text aloud. Ask and answer the following questions with
your partner:
1. According to what principle are shoes classified in the text? 2. What four
classes are shoes divided into according to the means of fastening? 3. Due to
what factor does a court shoe keep on the foot? 4. What is the requirement to the
top line with a court shoe? 5. What do walking shoes with lower heels rely on? 6.
What is the requirement to the top line with walking shoes? 7. What are the
means of securing with walking shoes? 8. What are the means of securing with
ankle boots? 9. Is it possible to dispense with the quarters altogether? With what
kind of footwear? 10. What does a mule rely on to hold on the foot? 11. What
kinds of footwear is the mule style suitable for because of its doubtful security?
12. What kinds of fastening are used on your shoes?
3. Write a summary of the text.

UNIT FOUR. BASIC TYPES OF CLASSIC MEN’S

AND WOMEN’S SHOES

A. THE BASIC TYPES OF CLASSIC MEN’S SHOES

1. Check up if you remember the following words and word-combinations:

competition, thanks to, skilfulness, a few, a single piece, ( straight, various,
apron, to punch, in addition, range, agreement, feature, of one’s own
2. Put all possible questions to the following sentences:
1. He has bought a new pair of shoes. 2. The upper of the simplest shoe
consists of a single piece of leather. 3. A shoe is categorized by the style of its
construction. 4. There are less than a dozen basic classic shoe styles.

TEXT ONE

Read the text and name, in Russian, th£ three ways of identifying shoes.

The Basic Types of Men’s Shoes

The basic types of men’s shoes, today regarded as classics were developed as
the result of competition between the great European

Iiuemakẹrs during the years 1880—1889. The workshops of London, '.Ills.

Munich, Vienna, and Budapest achieved fame around the world, Hunks to their
skilfulness and the individuality of their shoes.

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 A shoe is categorized primarily by the style of its construction as '(•longing to
one of a few main groups. Shoe styles are first of all I' lined by the fastenings
used as laced shoes (closed or open), buckle hoes, or slippers. On a closed lace-
up shoe, such as the Oxford, the Jiiarters are sewn under the vamp and fasten
over the tongue, which is •wn onto the vamp. In the case of an open-lacing shoe,
such as the Herby, the quarters lie over the vamp, which is made of the same icee
of leather as the tongue. Another characteristic is the number of . omponents
making up the shoe upper. The upper of the simplest hoe, the slipper, consists of
a single piece of leather. Styles like the Budapest consist of a vamp, quarters, and
an outer counter. In addition,
I he vamp can be divided by a straight, or winged, toe cap, and various ivpes of
apron. The third way of identifying shoes is the presence, or ihscnee, of patterns
of punched perforations (brogueing), which have een a feature of fashionable
men’s shoes since the end of the nineteenth century.
There are less than dozen basic classic shoe styles, but they offer mitless
possibilities for variation when designing individual models. When deciding on
the basic structure of the shoe, the designer will always draw on the traditional
range of shoes. His creativity is allowed renter freedom when it comes to the
design of the upper. How should I he lines run? How will the different parts
combine together armoniousiy? Which types of decoration (brogueing, stitching,
gimped •dges, inlaid panels), colours, and textures are suitable, and what
ombinations are possible?
While shoemakers around the world are in agreement on the nomenclature of the
basic types of shoe, the innumerable variations on lesc styles produced by the
different workshops have individual names
of their own.

1. Answer the following questions:

1. When were the basic types of men’s shoes developed? 2. What is .1 shoe
categorized primarily by? 3. What are shoe styles first of all defined by? 4. What
is the Oxford and the Derby? 5. What is another characteristic feature of a shoe?
6. What is the third way of identifying shoes?
2. Find the English equivalents in the text for the following Russian word-
combinations:
1. B pe3yjibTaTe KOHKypetmnn; 2. õnaroaapH HX MacTepcTBy H
HHCIU- HffiiyajiBHOCTn; 3. npexzte Bcero; 4. Tatate KQK; 5. UTO
KacaeTCH; 6. Bflofia- BOK (Kpo.we Toro)
3. Write a summary of the text.

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 Fig. 18. Oxford and Derby Shoes
5. Explain the difference between straight toe cap and U’ingtip.
6. What do stitching, gimped edge, brogueing mean?

TEXT TWO

Read the text and say how the Oxford and the Derby transformed when the nobility
started to wear them.

The Full-Brogue and Semi-Brogue

This simplest early versions of the Oxford and the Derby bore no decoration
at all, but shoemakers soon began to decorate the classic men’s shoes with all sorts
of ornamentation. It was Irish farmers who first began to decorate shoes with
patterns of holes. Their shoes tended to become waterlogged due to the wet
ground in the bogs where they worked. They put holes into the toe caps and
quarters of their heavy leather shoes so that the insides would dry better.
In England this type of shoe first became popular with foresters and
gamekeepers, then later among the aristocratic circles who went hunting in their
company. Once the brogue had found its way into the closets of the nobility, it
went through a process of transformation. Shoemakers began to make brogues
out of ever softer and thinner leather, and the lines became markedly more
elegant. The original function of the perforations (brogueing) was forgotten; they
were now purely decorative features. The pattern of holes on the toe of the shoe
became much more delicate, the joins between tlfe vamp and the quarters, the
upper edge, or top line, of the quarters were decorated with brogueing and edged
with stitching. The result was the creation of the full-brogue and the semi-brogue
(also known as the half-brogue). The only difference between the full-brogue and
the semi-brogue is the shape of toe cap. which is winged on a full-brogue and
straight on a semi-brogue.

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4
 Full-brogue shoes were already to be seen on golf courses in England .11 the
beginning of the twentieth century —they were regarded as a kind "I sports shoe.
They only found massive popularity around the world • lien the Prince of Wales,
who was regarded in the 1930s as the most elegant man in Europe, astonished
society by wearing full-brogues to play golf. He was so fond of brogue shoes that
he also liked to wear a more elegant version on social occasions.
Despite the example given by the Prince of Wales, semi-brogues and lull-
brogues are still not worn after six o’clock in the evening.

waterlogged — 1. 3aronjieHHbiii;
2. aaõonoueHHbùí;
3. nponnraHHbiíi BO AO it, bog — 6OJIOTO, Tpacima
MOKpblH gamekeeper — erepb, oxpaHfl-
!O LU uh AH4b

1. Say whether the following statements

are true or false:
1. The simplest versions of the Oxford
and the Derby were decorated with
brogueing. 2. The Irish farmers put holes
into the toe caps and quarters to keep the
insides dry. 3. When the nobility began to
wear the brogue, it went through a process
of transformation. 4. The only difference
between the full-brogue and I lie semi-
brogue is the shape of the lacing. 5. It was
the Prince of Wales who wore elegant
brogues on social occasions.
2. Answer the following questions:
1. Who first began to decorate the
classic men’s shoes? 2. Who was this type of
shoe popular with in England? 3. How did
the brogue change when it had found its way
into the closets of I he nobility? 4. What is
the only difference between the full-brogue
and semi-brogue? 5. When did full-brogue
shoes find massive popularity around the
world? 6. Are these shoes fashionable now?
3. Give the main points discussed in the
text in six or seven sentences. Fig. 19. Brogue and Semi-Brogue.
Three different toe caps. Top: plain.
Centre: straight with decorative pattern
(semi-brogue). Bottom: winged with
decorative pattern (full-brogue)

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 TEXT THREE

Read (he text and entitle it.

Brogues have come a long way from the Irish footwear that give them their
name. Originally, a brogue was one of the simplest but mi) .I effective of the
practical peasant styles, created with nothing more III mind than protecting the
feet with the maximum efficiency. That I why they were made with holes in the
skin: it seemed the easiest ami quickest way to drain away the water that
collected in the shoes as till ' forded the sodden Irish bogs.
The brogue crossed to England as footwear for gamekeepers ami ghillies
who needed a shoe that would withstand all weathers. Its success came to the
attention of the squirearchy, who took it up as the idcalh tough shoe for stalking
and shooting.
Having climbed the social ladder, the brogue became refined. While losing
none of its sturdiness, it grew increasingly elegant and was even considered
suitable for ladies following country pursuits. Its apotheosis was reached in the
1930s when the world’s arbiter of fashion, the Prince of Wales, wore it as a
golfing shoe and, in a lighter form (and to the horror of clubmen everywhere), in
suede with a grey lounge suit as suitable wear for town. With such a pedigree, it
is not surprising that the brogue Style has become a firmly established perennial
fashion for men and women
1. Compare Text Three with the previous one. What do they diner in?
2. Ask and answer the questions on the text. Work in pairs.

to ford — nepexoaHTb Bbpofl sodden — sturdy — cnahHi.ru, KperiKiii-i, TBep

npoMOKUiHH, nponriTaH- abiii
Hbiii BJiaroft pedigree — poaocaoBHaa; renẹạao- rna;
squirearchy — cocaoBHe KpynHbix nponcxoxaehne
rioMeuiHKOB, arpapneB perennial — AaauuiỉícH Kpyrabiìi rofl
to stalk — noAKpaabiBaTbCH, npecrie-
AOBaTb, BbicaexueaTb (dw‘fố, 3eep>i)

TEXT FOUR

Translate the text into Russian in writing.

The Oxford
The Oxford is by far the most elegant English men’s shoe and is to be
recognized by its closed lacing. The laces are threaded through five pairs of
eyelets and fasten up the shoe so perfectly that only the upper edge of the tongue
can be seen. This type of shoe looks particularly good on narrow feet with a low
instep.
Because the pants form a continuation of the shoe, it is vitally important that

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the two are in harmony.
The combination of a black suit with a pair of black Oxfords guarantees the
wearer a distinguished appearance on formal and festive occasions. Together with
plain pants, it shows good taste in everyday situations.

TEXT FIVE

Read the text and speak on the peculiar features of the Derby.

The Derby
The Derby is a shoe with open lacing much worn in continental Europe.
Shoes with lacing of this kind are also known as “Bluchers” after the Prussian
field marshal Gebhart Leberecht von Bliicher, Duke of Wahlstadt (1742— 1819),
who joined forces with Wellington to defeat Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo
in 1815 and ordered laced shoes of this type to be made for his soldiers.
The Derby offers pure comfort to shoe-lovers who have a wide foot or an
unusually high instep. At the same time, the decorations soften the character of
the shoe, which looks particulary robust on account of its top seams (on lock-
stitched versions) and the built-up sole. The open lacing means that it is easier to
slip into this shoe than an Oxford, and the distance between the two quarters is
easier to adjust. Derbys are available in many different styles: plain, semi-brogue,
and full- brogue.
1. Name peculiar features of the Derby.
2. What styles are Derbys available in?

TEXT SIX

Read the two parts of the text (A, B) and give your titles to them. Support your
consideration with the data from the text.

A. This shoe has usually a low heel, two or three eyelet lace-up. The front
part of the quarters called the tabs are apart and stitched on (0 the vamp. The shoe
is plain-fronted or may have a toe cap or mock-stitched toe cap, an apron front,
and may be decorated by serrating the overlapping edges of the upper (gimping).
Note the front edge of quarters stitched on to the vamp some distance apart — compare
with the style dealt with below.

B. In this style the front edges of the quarters are stitched under the edge of
the vamp close together. The tabs are thus fixed at the bottom and open to the top
in the shape of a V. It is usually fitted with four 01 five eyelets and a toe cap.

a mock stitched toe cap — HMH rauHfl HOCKS OTCTPOMKOỈÍ

1. Compare the Derby and the Oxford. What similar features do they have?
What do they differ in?

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 2. Suggest your own version of the Oxford (Derby) style. Supply it with
drawings. Discuss it with your fellow-students. Some hints may prove helpful:
the design I’ve developed; the special features of the traditional Oxford
(Derby); the secondary detail I’ve introduced; to alter the style; the materials I've
selected; the colour; to be intended for

TEXT SEVEN

Read the text and explain why this shoe is called “the Monk” (Fig. 20).

Fig. 20. The Monk

The Monk
The Monk (so called because it is reminiscent of the sandals worn by monks)
is an independent style of shoe. It consists of a vamp and quarters, like the
Oxford and the Desby, but differs from them markedly in that the two quarters
are fastened together with a distinctive buckle. The buckle is fastened to one of
the quarters, while the other ends in a leather strap, which is threaded through the
buckle and used to adjust the distance between the quarters across the instep.
Most Monks have an undivided smooth vamp on which the buckle and the strap
stand out to full effect. The buckles themselves vary greatly, and can be silver or
golden, square or round, and have smooth or patterned surfaces. The advantage of
the Monk is the simplicity of its buckle fastening. This contrasts with the Derby,
for example, with its complicated lacing, which leaves the ends of the laces lying
on the shoe.
1. Speak oil the differences of the Monk as compared to the Oxford and the
Derby.
2. Read these texts and make sketches of the described types of shoes.
1. This classic Derby is decorated with a woven vamp that forms a startling
contrast to its smooth quarters. Woven leather is much more air-permeable than
the thinnest plain leather. A sheet of leather is cut into strips about an eighth of an
inch (3 — 5 mm) wide, and some of the leather strips are hung parallel to each
other on a construction rather like a loom. The shoemaker then threads the
remaining strips through at right angles, running them over and under the hanging

11
8
strips in an alternating pattern (in fact, he weaves the leather). This creates the
woven leather surface with a pattern of squares — the narrower the strips, the
more attractive will be the final appearance of the shoe.
2. Unlike their ancient predecessors, modern sandals are not status symbols
by any means. They are worn, above all, for comfort because they are the coolest
things to wear in very hot weather. This sandal retains several easily recognizable
elements of the classic men’s shoe. The toe is plain and the counter hidden,
allowing the bars of different widths to stand out more effectively, particularly
the one that runs right over the top of the instep. This sandal is a typical variation
on the Monk. The quarter is extended into a strap, which fastens with a buckle. In
this case, practicality was uppermost in the designer’s mind. At the same time, he
created something special with the simplicity of his design, giving sophistication
to a casual shoe.
3. Holes punched in the leather guarantee total air permeability. The toe and
facings of this Derby are smooth, but all the other parts have been decorated with
relatively large holes. On the one hand, these have a similar aesthetic function to
brogueing; on the other, they ensure that air circulates and the shoe is pleasantly
cool. The holes are arranged in a systematic geometric pattern laid down by the
designer. Holes of an eighth of an inch (3 mm) diameter are placed five-eighths
of an inch (1.5 cm) apart in a kind of network. The upper leather and the lining of
this summer shoe are punched through in the same places. The lining is needed to
give the upper support, as in most shoes.

TEXT EIGHT

Read the text and show your partner how the first moccasins were made. Explain the
difference between the moccasin and the loafer.

Loafers and Moccasins

The moccasin is the Native American’s contribution to footwear. Il was taken
up by the early colonists and through'them found its way back to the Old World,
where it evolved into the very symbol of understated elegance, the Gucci loafer.
The moccasin is essentially a leather bag for the foot. A single piece of hide
wraps around the foot, forming the sole and the upper, though in many versions a
second piece of hide is sewn in to form an apron that covers the top of the foot.
The loafer is essentially a two-piece moccasin but has a hard sole and a strap or
saddle, made of leather, over the instep. Expensive, upscale loafers retain the
moccasin s tubular design in which the leather from the shoe’s upper wraps under
the foot. The design makes the shoe particularly comfortable. In cheaper styles of
loafer, the leather upper is cut and sewn to the sole as in regular shoes. The name
“loafer” probably conics from the German l.andtaufer meaning a wanderer, or
vagabond.

TEXT NINE

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9
Read the text and say what new information it contains.

The Slipper

1. The slipper is a light, flexible shoe made of soft leather with a thin sole.
Slippers are so comfortable that the wearer is hardly aware of them on his feet
They go perfectly with a casual look. In addition to its simple original form, the
slipper (also known as the loafer) is found in a welled version. The advantages of
the slipper were raised in to new heights in 1979 when Diego Della Valle
introduced his J. p. Tod’s onto the market. This driving shoe with small rubber
studs embedded in its sole is a real moccasin. Della Valle removed all the hard
leather from the sole and the inner, and had the sole and the upper made of a
single piece of leather.
2. The moccasin worn by the American Indians was the predecessor of this
shoe. It is known as the “slipper" because all you have to do is slip your foot into
it. The vamp, the quarters, and the tongue are made of a single piece of leather,
and it has no laces or buckles. However, while the sole of the moccasin is made
of very thin, flexible leather, the slipper is similar in construction to athe classic
shoe styles described above. The common decorative elements used on slippers
include hand- stitched aprons and tassels attached to the tongue. The overall
effect is one of casual elegance, well befitting a gentleman’s wardrobe.
3. The leather tassels found on many slippers have the disadvantage that they
easily get caught in the seams of the wearer’s pants. For this reason many
customers order their bespoke slippers without tassels.

1. Answer the following questions:

1. What is the slipper like? 2. What is the second name for the slipper? 3.
What was the slipper introduced by Della Valle like? 4. What shoe was the
predecessor of the slipper? 5. Why is this shoe called “a slipper”? 6. What do the
common decorative elements used on slippers include? 7. Are these shoes
elegant? 8. Do you often wear slippers? 9. Are they in fashion now? 10. With
what clothes do you usually wear slippers?
2. Look at the slippers (Fig. 21 a and A) and read the text again. What
paragraphs of the text describe them?

Fig. 21. Men’s Slippers (a, b)

3. Draw sketches of different versions of slippers and describe them.

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 TEXT TEN

Translate the text into Russian in writing. Use a dictionary if necessary.

Sneakers
The sneaker is the most powerful and lasting shoe design of the twentieth
century. Quite apart from its strength as a design in its own right, it is of great
importance as the precursor of the training shoe which is perhaps second only to
the clog as the universally democratic footwear worn by people of all ages and
nationalities.
The word “sneaker” was first used in 1875 and it referred to the early croquet
shoe which had been developed in the United States using the newly-invented
vulcanizing process to make rubber soles for the white canvas uppers. The
sneaker went through many design modifications before becoming a popular
teenage fashion in the late 1950s. Stars like Buddy Holly gave sneakers a sexual
quality that made their lure even stronger. Possibly because they were
inexpensive in virtually every country, they soon became the universal footwear
of the burgeoning student classes.

precursor — npefliuecTBCHHHK, lure — co6aa3H, co0Jia3HH-

upeaTeaa re.rjbHocrb; npejiecTb

TEXT ELEVEN

Read tile text and say what interesting information it contains.

Sports Shoes
These were the earliest specifically designed sports shoes. Organized sport
was largely a late-nineteenth-century invention and well into the 1880s cricket,
football and rugby were commonly played in ordinary, hobnailed, heavy-duty
leather workboots, which were unmodified except for the occasional addition of
rows of metal studs to give greater grip. Twentieth-century sport has been
characterized by the quest for increased performance. In the majority of sports the
improvement has been dependent on speed and this has forced the makers of
sports shoes to produce lighter products. Modern rugby and football players
would be exhausted if they had to play in the earliest sports boots. These
protected the ankle and had a toe cap of specially strengthened leather and studs
made of layers of leather. They weighed 500 grams when dry but could be twice
as heavy in wet conditions. The modern boot is a streamlined design, cut low.
soled in plastic and with screw-in studs. It weighs less than 250 grams.
The father of the modern running shoe was Adolf Dassler, who began making
shoes in 1920. By 1936 his shoes were internationally acknowledged as the best
and were worn by athletes of the calibre of Jesse Owens. To improve the strength
of the shoe, Dassler added strips of leather to give support. His first 3-strip shoe
appeared in 1949. It was the first modern running shoe, from which the trainer

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1
and the baseball boot evolved. In 1948 the Dassler business split and it was re-
formed as two separate companies: Addas (later to be known as Adidas) and
Puma. Both firms remain today in the forefront of the immense running shoe
business.
The modern track shoe with its mesh fabric uppers and super-light synthetic
soles can weigh less than 96 grams. It is as aerodynamically efficient as
Concorde and quite as beautiful.
Shoes and boots of man-made materials have proved to be efficient and
reliable. Not only are they light, they also have the advantage of being more
easily mass-produced than £oots made in traditional materials. As sport has
become faster and more aggressive, the need for safety has increased — man-
made materials allow safeguards to be incorporated in the design. The change to
synthetics has revolutionized specialist sports footwear like the ski boot and has
also made possible completely new forms such as the underwater swimmer’s
flipper. It is highly likely that in the next decade sport will be the catalyst for all
clothes design and our present trainers and sneakers will be seen as only the first
tentative moves towards making the fashion world one enormous international
sports stadium.
1. Ask and answer the questions on the text. Work in pairs.
2. Make a list of the most important points discussed in the text.
3. Give a summary of the text using your list.
4. Can you guess what future sports shoes would be like? Describe them.

TEXT TWELVE

Before reading the text say how you understand its title.

Status Shoes
For all but the most poor, shoes do a lot more than merely protect (lie feet. In
fact, what they project is every bit as important as what they protect: and in many
cases much more so. Certain shoe styles have the effect of conferring on their
wearers membership of a club. They signal clearly who and what their wearer is
and why he is different from (and superior to) the rest of mankind. As clearly as
the red heels worn by Louis XIV and his nobility, so certain modern styles denote
money, class and privilege.
The most famous status shoe of the twentieth century is the Gucci loafer. In
the last decade the green and red canvas ribbon caught by gilt horseshoe buckles
has become synonymous with arrogance that considers swanky dressing the
antithesis of style. Gucci loafers stand for the social confidence of the casually
wealthy — though cheap copies and overexposure have weakened the power of
the message.
An even more exclusive sign of a certain style is the Ralph Lauren slipper
with the gilt embroidered decorative motif. To own a pair of these is a real sign of
case with one’s privileged social position as they are meant to be worn privately
at home. In theory, at least, they are seen only by those in the know.

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 1. Read the text and make a plan.
2. Retell the text according to your plan.
3. Discuss the problem of status shoes with your groupmates.

TEXT THIRTEEN

Read the text and render it in Russian.

The Male Boot

The paradox of boots is that although they arc essentially practical items of
clothing, they have always been fashion articles for all but the

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 lowliest peasant. Dandies, mashers, fops
and macaronis have never accepted that merely
because boots are utilitarian, they need be
dull. Military men, yeoman farmers, gentlemen
and horsemen have taken pride in them as
objects that reflect their individual style,
class and position in society.
Fine boots were important indicators of social status from before the
sixteenth century until beyond World War 1. Over the centuries their design
gradually became less flamboyant but that did not reduce their importance.
Sixteenth-century boots, as worn by the gentleman class were extravagantly
decorative. Made of exquisite leather, softly wrinkled, they were worn with their
tops turned down. As the century' progressed, they became increasingly
ornamental and were frequently topped off with lace or elaborately cut fine
leather.
At the same time more practical boots, the forerunners of those worn in the
eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, began to evolve. Essentially meant for
serious riding, they were more rigid and protective and were often made of
waxed leather for greater strength and style. Ill the early nineteenth century, boots
became increasingly divorced from the specialist gear of riding and took their
place as normal daytime footwear for all smart and fashionable men-about-town.
Hessians, wellingtons, top boots and dress boots were all made of the finest
leathers.
Boots refer to footwear in which the upper comes over the ankle. There are
the following kinds of men’s boots:
1. The Derby which is any boot similar to the Gibson shoe.
2. The Chukka which is a boot with a Gibson style of fastening, with two or
three pairs of eyelets. The quarters of the Chukka arc at ankle, or slightly above
ankle height. This style with a suede upper may be called a desert boot.
3. The Chelsea which is a lightweight boot with an elastic gusset. It is
normally slightly higher than the Chukka boot.
fop — werojib, nnxoH, xjibim Hessian boots — ucm. BbicoKKe
macaroni Item. cppaHT, (birr yeoman canorn, õoTỘoprbi
— 1. Item. ũoMen;
2. ộepMep cpeatieii wellingtons — BbicoKHe canorn gear
pyKH, MejiKHii 3CM- — npHcnocoõaeHHe,
acBaaneaeu yCTpỒíÌCTBO
flamboyant — apKHft, UBeTMc-
Tbifi, apc3MepHO nbiiUHblii
1. Divide the text into logical parts and write down the main idea of each part.
Suggest possible titles for thfcm.
2. Write a summary of the text.
3. Compose a dialogue or a story on either of these topics:
1. Similarity and Difference Between the Shoe and the Boot.

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2. Kinds of Men’s Boots. 3. The Derby and the Chukka. 4. The Chelsea as
Opposed to the Derby and the Chukka.
TEXT FOURTEEN

Read the text and say what proper names are mentioned in it.

Made for Walking

There is an essential paradox about boots. Their original design was
functional for use out of doors on route-marches, but they quickly became
fashion items which have been, and still are, worn well outside I he practical
context for which they were intended. The boot is basically a shoe with a “leg”
that rises, at the very least, to the ankle, but which sometimes climbs to the knee
and can even extend halfway up the thigh. Its history has always been linked to
the military, and, in fact, the evolution of the boot can be traced right back to the
Roman legions. As Roman soldiers marched northwards into Europe, they were
forced to abandon their Mediterranean sandals for an enclosed shoe to keep their
feet warm. Julius Caesar, conqueror of Britain and Gaul, was reputed to have
worn a pair of boots made of solid gold.
Soldiers’ boots are immensely practical footwear. They keep out the mud of
the battlefield and help to protect the feet from injury and infection. They also
protected the calves of the cavalry man and helped him to control his horse, while
the foot soldier, too. drew comfort from the fact that his feet were warm and
protected.
Well-shod feet can make all the difference in a battle. Napoleon dressed his
troops in shiny boots that looked impressive on parade, while the Duke of
Wellington took great pains to make sure his men were shod for the battlefield.
Wellington also gave his name to a leather cavalry boot. It was not until this
century that the Wellington boot was manufactured in rubber.
Work boots are designed for the job. The boots of the coalminer or labourer
are rugged and functional. Originally, they were made from the sturdiest leather
with thick toe caps for protection. Later, the toe caps were reinforced with steel.

to shoe (shod) — oÕỴBaTb

1. Read the text again. Ask and answer the questions. Work in pairs.
2. Summarize the ideas about boots; draw sketches and describe them.

B. BASIC TYPES OF CLASSIC WOMEN’S SHOES

1. Check up if you remember the following words:

ankle, to encourage, to participate, sensible, loafer, to stretch, wedge, strap,
wardrobe, outfit, casual, slight, to choose, stacked, to slip, dressy, to fit

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 2. Translate the following words into Russian:
less — to lessen; wide — to widen; slender — to slenderize; accent - I,
accentuate; accessories — to accessorize; special — to speciali/1 complement —
to complement; sense — sensible- — sensitive; practical practicality
3. Find the principal words in each of the following word-combination' translate
them into Russian:
native American moccasin; dress reform movements; broad-heck >I
“commonsense” shoes; rubber athletic boots; Cuban-heeled Oxford' sensible
sports-related footwear

TEXT ONE
t'.
Before reading the text say how you understand its title.

The Sensible Shoe

The early brogue, the original clog, the Native American moccasin and the
simple Egyptian sandal are the only styles of footwear we actually need. The rest
are shoemakers’ dreams and fulfilment of women’s (and men’s) fantasies.
The majority of comfortable women’s styles are derived from men’',
footwear. The Oxford and the brogue, the ghillie, the sneaker and the running
shoe — all were made first for men and later adapted for the female foot. Other
sturdy designs like the Native American moccasin, the clog and the espadrillc
were unisex from the start.
Practicality, not vanity, inspired the creation of the Native American
deerskin moccasin, one of the earliest unisex shoes and the precursor ol the
contemporary loafer. These soft one-piece "foot bags” wrapped up and over the
feet, providing protection from the elements and increased mobility. Colonial
women, their feet enslaved by confining, toe-pinching European-style shoes,
quickly recognized the moccasin’s benefits and some adopted them for indoor
wear. In Europe, footwear would continue to reflect class distinctions. Rural and
working-class women had always worn sensible shoes, while their cossctted
upper-class counterparts were imprisoned by impractical but beautiful styles that
reflected privileged lives. Although it was socially acceptable for upper-class
women to wear riding boots and other sensible sports-related footwear, more
than 200 years would pass before most women took comfort seriously.
A period of rapid social and economic change beginning in the mid- 1800s
changed women’s lives and, consequently, the way they dressed. As women
began to work outside the home in offices and factories, their shoes and clothing
became less confining and more practical. The broad-heeled “commonsense”
shoes favoured by suffragettes on protest marches became fashionable for
recreational walking, and more women
 began actively participating in sports, their feet comfortably shod in mvas and
rubber athletic boots or "sneakers”. By the 1920s, women’s bodies were liberated
and so were their feet. Adaptations of men’s tootwear styles such as the brogue,
the ghillie and the Oxford proliferated.
World War 11, as did World War 1, found women stepping out of fashion ■Hid
into sturdy shoes or boots as they replaced men on assembly lines.

Il) enslave
— nopaõomaTb, suffragette — cyộpaxitcTKa
aeaarb paboM to proliferate — pacnpocTpaHHTbCfl,
Io cosset — baaonaTb, jiacxaTb pacTH
1. Read the text and say whether the following statements are true or false:
1. We actually need only several styles of footwear: the brogue, the clog, the
moccasin and the sandal. 2. Men's footwear is derived from women’s styles. 3.
The moccasin, the clog were unisex from the start. I. In Europe footwear didn’t
reflect class distinctions. 5. Working-class women had always worn sensible
shoes. 6. Women’s lives and the way I hey dressed changed in the mid-1800s. 7.
When women began to work in offices and factories, their shoes became high-
heeled and more dressy.
2. Answer the following questions:
I. What are the styles of footwear we actually need? 2. What shoes were
made first for men and later adapted for the female foot? 3. What footwear was
unisex from the stall? 4. Did footwear reflect class distinctions in Europe? 5.
What shoes did working-class women wear? 6. What shoes did upper-class
women wear? 7. How did women's footwear change at the end of the 19th
century and at the beginning of the 20th century?
3. Write a summary of the text.

TEXT TWO

Read the text and say whether this text deals with I) the history of shoes, 2) footwear
materials or 3) personal pieces of advice.

Shoes
Shoes complete your wardrobe, say a lot about your status in the world, and
should be taken seriously. The wrong shoes can kill an outfit and perfect shoes
can turn a good outfit into a dynamite outfit.
You can’t do without a pair of classic black pumps. Choose a medium- high
heel, and make sure they are in style — you don’t want to wear a thin heel when
chunky heels are the fashion. Buy them in leather to last longer, or cloth if the
season allows. Besides your classic black pump, your complete shoe wardrobe
should also include two pairs of casual shoes — such as loafers or Oxfords, two
pairs of dressy shoes — higher
heels, slingbacks or straps, a pair of boots, and one or two pails III sandals. Ten to
twelve pairs will give yon a complete shoe wardrob Instead of buying whatever
crazy style is popular at the moment, wli not experiment with colour? You could
rush ou't and buy a high platfoim wedge with a little mirror on the back, or you
could buy a more cla I style in red. Coloured shoes are fun and different, and
they won't I'll out of style. If you’re going to wear high heels, you’ll be more
comfort.ll'I in a shoe with a slight platform in the front to lessen the angle of yotn
foot. If you can only afford one pair of boots, buy them to fit a third "I the way
up the calf so that you can wear them under pants, and choose a medium-height
stacked heel.
“Make intelligent shoe decisions: work with the size and shape III your feet
and the thickness of your ankles. I have thicker ankle, so I don’t like to wear straps
that call attention to them, and 1 like my shoe I to be cut lower in front. If I do
wear a strap, it crosses at the ankle til slenderize my foot. Wearing darker hose
minimizes thicker ankles, JIN as darker shoes make big feet look smaller. If you
have very large "I wide feet, steer away from light-coloured shoes because they
will drav the eye down and accentuate the size of your feet. As a rule of thumb I
like at least a thin rubber layer on the soles for traction. I hate slippfnp in new
shoes' It’s a personal preference, but 1 also like the soles of niv shoes to be dyed.
If you are wearing a sandal, be mindful of your feel Either get a pedicure, or
simply keep your nails clean and neat,” says Susan Graver, the American shoe
designer.
I. Read the text again. Give some facts from the text to prove the following
1. When your feet hurt you, your whole appearance suffers. 2. You can’t do
without a pair of classic black pumps and two pairs of casual shoes. 3. Instead of
buying shoes of crazy style popular at the moment, why not experiment with
colour? 4. You should make intelligent shoe decisions concerning the size and
shape of your feet and the thickness of your ankles.
2. Explain in English the following statement:
“The wrong shoes can kill an outfit and perfect shoes can turn a good outfit
into a dynamite outfit.”
3. Discuss the following:
What pieces of advice are the most interesting and useful ones? Do you agree
with all of them?
The following phrases may be helpful:
I think...; my opinion is...; I doy’t think so...; it’s wrong...; it depends on...;
it’s interesting to find out that...; 1 can’t agree...
4. Give a summary of the text with your own comments.

TEXT THREE
Read the text and say what new information it contains.
 Siloes and Boots

By thinking first and buying later, you can accessorize sensibly with .hoes
and complement your working wardrobe perfectly, as well as economically.
When you buy shoes, always walk around the shop in them, and make sure
that they are wide enough. If you’ve got wide feet, it’s often .1 good idea to go
up a size and put in an inner sole. Otherwise, the width of the shoe will stretch
and the toes will curl. Also, remember to allow for the fact that your feet can
swell in hot weather.
Those with narrow feet should look for labels (often Italian) that • pecialize in
narrow fittings. Shoes that are too wide or too long will ’ onstantly slip off,
making you feel and look unsure of yourself and unsteady of your feet. If your
shoes are uncomfortable, it will immediately how on your face.
Flat Shoes. There are two basic styles of a flat shoe. The first is a moccasin
or loafer, which has a 1/2-cm (1/5 in) heel. The second has .1 1.5 —2-cm (1/2—
I in) heel. Many women feel more comfortable in the latter. They give a little
height but still look flat —perfect for wearing with trousers and longer skirts.
Court Shoes. Of all the shoe designs on the market, the court shoe is, without
doubt, the bestseller. With a heel of 3 — 4 cm (1 — 1.5 in),
I lie court shoe is comfortable to walk in and it complements most dress, skirt
and trouser styles. The shape of the toes vary from season to season depending
on the fashion, from rounded to square, to very' pointed.
Tip: Court shoes worn with trousers look most stylish when most of
I he foot is covered, so buy styles where the front of the shoe is high-cut
II you plan to wear them with trousers.
T-straps and Ankle Straps. Unless your feet, ankles and calves are line of
your best features, avoid T-straps and ankle straps. They draw attention to the
feet and make legs look shorter by creating lines across I hem. There are,
however, certain ankle straps that, because of the way I hey are fitted to the shoe,
start at a different angie and are not quite so unflattering. So, if you really fall in
love with a pair, try them on just in
case.
Sling-backs. Again, these shoes need good ankles and calves to look
nattering. They also tend to reveal heels that are in bad condition (cracked and
broken skin on heels just isn’t attractive). Sling-backs look best when they look
modern, i.e. with an open or pointed toe and a sexy kitten heel.
Wedge Sandals. Wedge sandals are a blessing for many women who don’t
have great legs, because contrasted against the chunky heel, chunky legs look
slim. Wear wedge sandals and fake tan in the summer and you will be delighted
at how your legs look.
A word of warning: try' to find a style with straps as ankles are ulnerablc and
can easily twist.
Tip: Never drive in a pair of wedge sandals because it is impossibl to feel the
pedals through the heel. Instead, keep a pair of moccasins II the car and drive in
those.
Brown Sandals. Designers always advise women to have a pail III brown

j'lpywK'Mtf 129
leather sandals for summer. They will complement most dolin' in your capsule
wardrobe and they are much more versatile and pract II II than white or cream
sandals. Those with a 3-cm (1.5 in) heel are probnhh the most useful but this can
vary depending on the shape of your II I and what you feel most comfortable
wearing.
A Word on Trainers. Trainers have become an essential part of ever
woman’s wardrobe and are widely used in and out of the gym. Howevvi if worn
too often, they do encourage toes to spread and, therefore, feel I" widen.
Youngsters, especially, should be wary of wearing them too often
Tip: Try to alternate your shoes (and heel height) daily. This is vit.ll for
keeping both your feet and your shoes in top condition.
Boots. Ankle boots look great with trousers but little else, apart linn long
skirts when, depending on the fashion, they can look very chic.
Knee-length boots, unless you are very young, should be worn Willi skirts that
fall below the top edge of the boot.
Tip: If you have big calves and have difficulty in finding boots til.Il fit, buy
styles made from elasticated fabric or designs fitted with elasticated panels.
Siloes for Chunky Legs. If your legs are less than perfect, go Ini simple
styles and avoid both very high-cut and low-cut shoes. Use .1 mirror when you try
on shoes and look at them from all angles. Choo.I the style that flatters your leg.
Remember, the longer the shoe, till slimmer your feet and .ankles will look. In
summer, try a platform sandal, the added height will slim your calves.
I. Answer the following questions:
1. What shoes should you buy if you have wide feet? 2. What arc III' two
basic styles of flat shoes? 3. What is the court shoe like? 4. Why an wedge
sandals a blessing for many women? 5. How do trainers chanpi woman’s feet if
worn too often? 6. With what clothes should boots hl worn?
2. Make a list of the most important points discussed in the text.
3. Discuss the text with your partner. Do you agree or disagree with dll author of
the text? Give your reasons.
4. Give your friend advice how to choose the style that flatters her legs.
5. Name the types of shoes you like to wear. Explain when you wear them
and why. *

TEXT FOUR

Look through the text to get some information about heels, their colour ami fabric.
Heels, Colour, Fabric
Heels, Toes and Backs. The styles of heels, toes and the backs of .hoes
change virtually every season. Long toes slim your feet and ankles •. does a heel,
although if it is too high, it might make your calves look In .ivy. Strappy shoes
should be viewed with caution as they can make your ankles look wide.
Heel Height. Every season, the height and shape of heels change .11 cording
to the length and shape of skirts. It is all a question of proportion: if you’re

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wearing a heavy tweed suit and you put a stiletto heel with it, proportionally it
will look very unbalanced. This is why die heels of shoes tend to be heavier (and
sometimes even with 3- platform sole) when heavier fabrics are fashionable.
Conversely, delicate shoes become popular when light and airy fabrics become
I.ishionable.
Many women use 5 — 6 cm (2 — 2.5 in) heel height for day wear. It is
lightly higher than the classic court shoe but can still be worn for < veryday
wear, particularly if you’re in a job that allows you to drive to • ork and change
when you get there. If not, travel in some loafers and Ii ry your heels in your bag.
Tip: Whatever the fashion, always choose a heel height that feels omfortable.
There is nothing worse than seeing a woman wobble. An •legant outfit will be
ruined by bad posture.
Colour. If you can only buy one pair of shoes, buy them in black. Neutral
tones are most useful for a working wardrobe but if you love ' oloured shoes, buy
cheaper ones in summer that you can have fun \ ith and then throw away.
Fabric. Although suede and fabric shoes can be useful, they lose dour and look
old quite quickly. Good quality leather lasts longer A lien properly looked after.
Remember, the thickness of leather will
iry from summer to winter.
1. Ask and answer the questions on the text. Work in pairs.
2. Describe the shoes you wear (heels, colour and fabric).
3. What shape of heels is in fashion now?
4. Why does the author of the text advise you to buy black shoes? What’s your
point of view?

TEXT FIVE

Read the text and render it ill Russian.

Slippers
Throughout history, slippers have been variously associated with wealth md
prestige.

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 Flat-soled slippers of brocaded silk or velvet had long been worn I' the
church’s episcopal hierarchy, and by the time Elizabeth 1 took III. throne,
slippers with heels were the height of fashion in England for boll, men and
women. Fabulously decorated and often made of preciouit materials, they were
intended to signify the wearer’s wealth. Indeed, II. Venice, shoemakers added
such an excessive amount of gold and gemstone to their creations that sumptuary
laws were passed to limit their use.
Today slippers are still purchased for special occasions — to match an
evening gown or wedding dress. Whether worn to a gala or only in III. boudoir,
however, modern slippers are often made from the same rich fab rics and
decorated with the same kinds of embroidery, sequins and lea thers as those of
centuries ago. And true to form, their function is subsci vient to their sumptuous
style. Brides began wearing white slippers Willi their gowns in the mid-19th
century — a tradition still observed today.
1. Read the text again and say why slippers have been associated with wealth
and prestige.
2. Describe the slippers you have bought lately.

TEXT SIX

Translate the text into Russian in writing.

The Marabou Mule

The mule in its modern incarnation has long been associated will) female
glamour and sex appeal — especially when trimmed with the soil stork feathers
known as marabou. A kind of backless slipper, the mule is the only shoe that
leaves the foot half-dressed and half-undressed. Anti once a heel was added, the
naked back of a woman’s foot was placed on a pedestal and exposed as highly
erotic. Mules, and in particular the marabou mule, became the very shoe in the
bedroom.
These days, marabou mules are again worn mostly as boudoir slippers, and as
such they seem to have found their perfect role.

incarnation — BorniomeHiie stork — raaoHbin feather — nepo

CTBOJI (ad. nepa)

TEXT SEVEN 1»
Read the text and make a list of key words.

Platform Soles
Men have been putting women up on pedestals for centuries. Anti fashion
followed suit — at times verging on the ridiculous. In 16th-

century Venice, shoes called chopines placed women’s feet on platforms I hat

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frequently rose to unprecedented heights of 30 inches or more. Made of cork or
wood, the platforms themselves were usually upholstered in leather or jewelled
velvet to match the shoes they lipported. Such shoes became a major symbol of
social status and great wealth.
Time has not dealt kindly with platform soles. They almost always manage to
look ugly and ridiculous, as they frequently were at the time. Ill the 20th century
there have been only three revivals of the platform '.ole. In the thirties they were
often made of cork and were used with wedge heels to make casual sandals for
the beach. In the forties they were made of wood and were a practical solution to
the problem caused by the shortage of leather. But it was in the aberrant seventies
that they became a full-blooded fashion, made and covered in virtually every
material under the sun.
1. Speak on platform soles.
2. Are platforms ugly? Give your reasons for or against this.
3. Describe the shoes in the pictures (Fig. 22).

The Mule The Platform

Fig. 22

TEXT EIGHT

l.ook the text through. Ask and answer the questions. Work in pairs.

Clogs, Platforms and Wedges

Wooden shoes were often seen as workwear, suitable only for the poor, but in
the 20th century, clogs, platform shoes and wedges left I his image behind to
scale new heights of fashion. The clog is a sole made from hardwood.
Traditionally, it was a working shoe and there ire two basic types. The Dutch
clog is simply a block of wood that has been hollowed out and shaped to follow
the contours of the foot. The design has remained much the same for 600 years.
The English clog is
a variation on the Dutch clog with a shaped wooden sole that has .III upper tacked
on to it. The upper is usually leather, but raffia, canv.1 and other types of fabric
can also be used. From these basic woodih shoe types have evolved the huge

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variety of “bulky” shoe types Wi know today.
The soles of platform shoes are usually made from cork or mail made styrene.
The soles of platform shoes are from '/, —8 inches (1.3 20 cm) thick and raise the
ball of the foot, as well as the heel. The heel and the sole tend to be two separate
units. Like stilettos, the platform shoe can trace its origin back to the raised wood
chopines of 16th century Venice. The wedge shoe also uses a cork sole to raise
the fool, but the sole and heel are all in one piece. Wedges sometimes have pan of
the sole cut out under the arch of the foot, but still tend to have .1 thicker arch
than the platform shoe.
The English, or Lancashire, clog or patten made an appearaim among the
wealthy in the 1600s. Pattens were wooden overshoe designed to protect good
shoes from the mired streets, but they weie a fashion item, too. In 1694, Queen
Mary 11 of England bought fi\( pairs of satin sabots, or clogs, with gold and
silver lacing. Men also wore clogs.
1. Read the text again. Write out the information about: 1) the purpose III these
types of shoes; 2) the materials they were made of; 3) the form of till heel and sole.
2. Discuss with your partner the following:
1. Are platform shoes worn now? 2. Have they changed much since that
time? 3. Are modern shoes made of the same materials as described in the text?
3. Draw some sketches of these shoes. Ask your partner to describe them

TEXT NINE

Read the text to get some information about:

Children’s Shoes
The basic styles of children’s shoes include Gibsons, Oxfords, ba I and strap
shoes, casuals and sandals.
Infant shoes normally have a lace or bar with a buckle or button fastening.
The fastening may be»simple instep or ankle strap or an instep strap which forms
a T-shape when it passes through an extension of the vamp.
1. Tell someone about the basic styles of children’s shoes. Give some extra
information on modern fashion trends in the area.
2. Draw some sketches of children’s shoes and describe them.
TEXT TEN

Practise reading the text aloud.

Ladies’ Boots
There are two groups of ladies boots: winter boots and fashion boots. Winter
Boots. These may be ankle-to-knee height. Ankle boots normally have a low
heel. The range of fastening (if any) includes laces, ips, and elastic gussets. They

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 arc usually lined with imitation or genuine
■>licepskin, foam-backed material, felt or other warm materials.
Fashion Boots. These are lightweight, high leg boots for wearing throughout
the year. Some styles have stretch legs which fit closely. I hey may be plain or
with zip fastener, straps, buckles, elastic gussets Of laces. They are either unlined
or lined with leather or foam-backed materials.
1. Suppose that you are interviewing a shoe designer. You want to find out: what
groups ladies’ boots are classified into; what winter boots may be as far as the
height of the leg is concerned; what means the range of fastening includes;
what they are usually lined with; what main features of ladies’ fashion boots
are; what styles of ladies’ boots are in fashion this season; by what means
fashion ladies’ boots may be decorated.
2. Make up a dialogue based on the text.

TEXT TEN

Read the text and find the information about: 1) the materials the boots were made
of; 2) the heels of the boots; 3) the boots w. Churchill and Ch. Chaplin wore.

City Styles
Women came into the 1900s wearing boots. Lower-class women wore ankle-
length boots that laced severely up the front. Stout, everyday boots were made in
leather. Upper-class women wore luxurious, glossy glacé kid boots. A popular
design had a black patent leather shoe with leg in black cloth. Brocade, velvet
and antelope skin were worn by more flamboyant souls on special occasions. The
boots had small, fairly thin heels, that were either shaped like a pedestal or
straight. Women also wore buttoned boots with kid or cloth legs, scalloped along
the buttoned edge. Eighteen-button ladies’ boots were still being made in the
USA as late as 1925, they were difficult to fasten and a buttonhook was essential
lo do them up.
In the early part of the century some boot styles were remarkably unisex. Both
men and women adopted the high-topped Balmoral boot

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which buttoned to one side. Often known simply as bals, they well made with a
galosh, or shoe part, of patent glace leather, and legs III cloth or matte leather.
Winston Churchill was a devotee and was photographed wearing bals with cloth
tops from 1908 to 1916 and Willi matte leather legs from 1913 to 1929. Another
wearer was Charlie Chaplin who favoured black patent bals with beige cloth legs.
This two-tom effect was developed from the turn of the century into the 1930s,
when it gave way to shoes and spats. The effect was much the same but, being
detachable, spats were easier to clean.
In the early part of the century, men also wore high Derby bool', which laced
up the front. They were also remarkably similar to women boots of the same
period and continued to be popular into the 1930s There were boots with elastic
sides too, but they temporarily went out of fashion in the 1920s.
1. Read the text again. Make up eight or ten questions on the text ill writing.
2. Write a summary of the text using the answers to the above questions Match
3. the terms with their definitions:
1. loafer a) backless slip-on
2. boot b) extends anywhere from ankle
3. espadrilles to thigh
4. mule c) low-heeled lace up
5. Oxford d) cut out to expose the toe
6. open-toed e) soft fabric shoe with flat
7. platform woven sole
8. slingback f) solid heel, heel higher than
9. stacked pump toe
10. stiletto g) thicker heel, usually built of
11. wedge layers of leather
h) pointed, narrow high heel
i) strap around an open back
j) a thick sole under both toe and
heel
k) moccasin-like slip-on shoe
4. Describe your boots (name the parts, material, fastening).
5. Memorize the following types of shoes:
Mary Jane — a pump with a strap across the foot.
Spectator — a two-toned, usually black and white, tan and white. OI
black and tan shoe.
Thong — an open flat shoe with straps across the toes starting from between
the big and the second toes.
Grecian — a slipper in which the quarter and vamps are cut low Io meet at
the waist.
Albert — a slipper in which the vamp includes a tongue at the throat

13
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 TEXT ELEVEN

Head (he text and name the designers mentioned in it.

Classic and Dashing Designs in Women’s Shoes

At the top end of the market, the court shoe remained the classic •I vie for town
wear. Since the 1950s, British court shoes had been ugarded as the finest in the
world. Edward Rayne was one of the • iding post-war designers of such
traditional styles, which remain in demand for a discerning clientele. The stiletto
and other contemporary
•ivies were also included in his range of footwear.
From the late 1950s lower heels became fashionable and toes longer, riving a
foretaste of the revival of 1920’s styles which occurred in the 1960s. At the
beginning of the decade, toes became square and heels Ỉbicker. Designers such as
Roger Vivier and Charles Jourdan produced samples of this type in silk for
evening wear, often lavishly decorated and made to match couture ensembles.
The choice of materials for shoes underwent radical changes in the 1960s,
partly due to a steep rise in leather prices. Plastics and other entireties with “wet-
look’- finishes complemented the “space-age” geometric look promoted by
fashion designers Andre Courreges and Pierre Cardin. Mary' Quant, one of the
most influential British designers of the period, adopted this idea using injection-
moulded plastic. Amongst other Ityles, she designed square-toed boots cut away
at the ankle and bearing die Quant trademark—a daisy—on the heel. Clear
plastic shoes were introduced by designers, including the American Herbert
Levine, and Roger Vivier. Vivier and other top Parisian designers were by this
time responding to new demands and seeking a niche for themselves in the south
market. Vivier’s low-heeled Pilgrim pump with silver buckles first appeared in
1962 to accompany the cutting-edge Parisian couturier Yves St Laurent's
“Mondrian” collection, it was the most imitated shoe of the 1960s, being
sufficiently versatile to appeal to both traditionalists and I hose looking for new
styles.
The mini-skirt buret onto the fashion scene in the mid-1960s, and lor the first
time a great expanse of female leg was exposed. Boots, both long and short, were
the ideal accessory to complement the mini-skirt. Andre Courreges and Mary
Quant, both of whom have been credited with introducing the mini-skirt, did
much to promote the fashion for boots. These became the major fashion feature
of the 1960s, initially teamed with the mini-skirt but later in the decade with the
maxi-skirt. “Biba” (the trademark of the designer Barbara Hulanicki and the
name given to her boutiques) became synonymous with a wide range of clothes,
including long boots in a variety of materials. These were dyed in a wonderful
array of colours ranging from pinks and chocolate brown to plum and subtle
mauves.

It7
 In complete contrast to the rage for boots, very feminine shoe', were also
in vogue, produced from the early 1960s. Low-heeled pumps, bar shoes, and
slightly later shoes with ankle straps became available in a range of mouth-
watering colours.
1. Name the main features of the shoes of the period described ill the text.
2. How are shoes and clothes related?
3. What materials were used for shoes of that period? Why were they used?
What’s your point of view?
4. Explain why court shoes are considered to be the classic style.
5. Check your knowledge:

1. lightweight plastic sole units are most likely to be 2. Leatherboard insoles are made of:
made of:

polyurethane (PU) cardboard with a printed grain

polystyrene fibreboard combined to leather
polypropylene belly leather
polyvinyl chloride
leather fibres compounded with rubber
4. A moccasin shoe is noted for its:

3. Most commonly used Iiiclhod of attaching soles:

cemented durability
stitched waterproofness
vulcanized low price
injection-moulded flexibility
6. The name “Louis” heel refers (other

5. Shoes should be fitted “snugly at the instep but

leave the toes free to move”. Where is instep?

under die foot just behind (he joint way the sole is constructed
at the longitudinal arch height
Shape
on the top of the foot including the met-
atarsal area and the cuneiform bones
method of attaching to the shoe
7. Box calf leather is recognized by:
8. A shoe which has a direct moulded sole is
recognized by:

a grain resembling tiny squares its high-walled mudguard

its hard brittle nature irregular shape of the sole bottom
very smooth and shiny appearance
a line down the centre of the back of the heel
small square punch holes overall The colour is always black.

13
8
9. Which of the following materials would be used for 10. A mail's shoe with no form of fastening or elastic
the shank of a high-heel shoe? gusset would be referred to as:

gun metal a court shoe

willow wood a loafer
tempered Steel a Monk shoe
mild steel a slip-on shoe
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Người biên soạn: TS. Nguyên Ngọc Thắng Bộ
môn: Vật liệu & CN Hoá dệt Điện thoại: 0904
309930

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7. Answer the following questions. Work in paứs.
1. Wliat kind of shoes would you call "sensible”? 2. What shoes would you
wear to a picnic? to a birthday party? for a formal occasion? 3. How do you take
care of your footwear? 4. What size do you take in shoes? 5. What do you do
about your shoes if they become down-at- heel? 6. What types of shoes are
fashionable now?
8. Do you know the meaning of the following English idioms (a)? Choose the
correct Russian version (b).

1 to