Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology

Review Article Open Access

Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom

and handicraft in India
Abstract Volume 6 Issue 6 - 2020

Handlooms and Handicrafts are one of the most important cottage industries in the country
Sanjay Shrivastava
giving livelihood to most of rural India. A number of handlooms in India are engaged in National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles,
weaving with natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool. Most of the villages in India are Govt. of India, India
directly or indirectly dependent for their bread and butter on the handloom and handicraft
sector. This sector carries proudly the traditional beauty associated with India’s such Correspondence: Sanjay Shrivastava, National Institute of
precious heritage. A research study on one of the silk handloom sectors situated in a small Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Mithapur
village named Bhagaiya in Jharkhand was carried out with an objective to gather considered Farms, Patna – 800001, India, Email
data and references reflecting the aspects and aspirations of this lively craft and its position
in the region. The ambition of the research is to add perspective to the development of this Received: September 02, 2020 | Published: November 10,
craft and the craftsmen associated with it. The study was carried out with the intention 2020
to understand the existing supply chain, to gain insight through a diagnostic study of the
environment, specific realities prevailing, resources available and mapping the aspects of
the handloom industry practiced in the region. The study and its outcomes aims to bring
forth the strength, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats. This SWOT can be used by
interested agencies/Government Sector, researchers who can approach this region with an
objective to provide or facilitate necessary aids that can bring about positive changes in
the lives of the weaver. This paper also tries to provide insights into the handloom textile
industry and attempts to explain the challenges and opportunities that lie within. This paper
also takes into account the usage of cost-effective and eco-friendly technology using natural
dyes from identified resources of India and which has also been evaluated, adopted and
adapted by the various handloom weavers segments in India. This paper looks at handcraft
as one of the potential segment for accomplishing sustainable development by examining
the colorful region of Kutch and to bring forth successful elements being practiced here for
a better conservation of resources and its moving towards sustainability.

Keywords: sustainable, natural dyes, natural fibers, handloom fabrics, handicrafts

Introduction visibility and viability. There has been attempts on similar lines by host
of other schemes which may also add potentiality to the position of
In India, the handloom and the handicraft sector is one of the largest the weaver leading to creation of more opportunities in the economy.
decentralized rural-based economic activities after agriculture. Indian These schemes which are popularly known as ‘Skill India’, ‘Digital
handlooms have captivated the world and remains closely linked to India’, ‘Brand India’ ‘Swadeshi Products’ ‘Aatam nirbhar Bharat (self
its culture and ethos. Indian handloom Industry has an overwhelming –independent)’ ‘Vocal for Local’. All these initiatives have given the
presence in the economic matrix and is one of the main contributing weavers a new momentum and the results accumulating out of the
sectors towards export earnings. The export of handloom products combined efforts have already started showing positive results and as
during the financial year 2017-2018 was valued at US$ 353.90 million a result leading to a much better position of handloom and handicraft
as compared to Rs.2392.21crore (US$ 333.59 million) in the financial rural industry. “Vocal for local” should become the mantra for every
yeas of 2016-17.1 Indian as the traditional art forms being practiced over the looms still
The traditional handloom weaving is a part of the country’s continues to rattle well enough so as to increase its presence and still
cultural ethos and it forms a precious part of its own generational continues to be in harmony with the industrialization at large.1,2
legacy. It provides large employment and nearly 15% of the total What has been seen is that the ever-increasing importance for
clothes produced in the country are from this sector. The strength and a holistic growth in the Indian handloom sector has been directly
key areas of handloom products is that it believes in introducing of affected by many factors such as individual growth of organized
innovative designs and at the same time keeping its heritage elements and unorganized textile industries, social and political influencing
intact such that replication of the same on power loom will be parameters, and by the governmental policies meant for the textile
difficult. The lack of market and the demand for handloom products sector. A systematic review of the present scenario of the Indian
along with too many government interventions has over simplified the handloom sector has been depicted in this paper. The overall facts
diversity of this sector. This has made the weavers more dependent and findings can help the stakeholder to formulate strategies to the
on such schemes and has over the years negatively impacted on the already existing practices. India as a country has created a niche of
potentiality of their entrepreneurial spirit. The government has treated its own when it comes to making of high-quality fabrics. Those who
this sector as a rural enterprise and have been offering different have been able to acquire the skills of working as handloom weavers
schemes for its survival. The initiatives like Make in India aims to or hand spinners have been a key segment in the Indian culture in
ignite the dying aspiration of many a weaver and help them to get the sense that their services have always been in high demand.3,4 The
their products recognized for a better world standing in terms of its

Submit Manuscript | http://medcraveonline.com J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2020;6(6):241‒248. 241

©2020 Shrivastava. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which
permits unrestricted use, distribution, and build upon your work non-commercially.
 Copyright:
Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India ©2020 Shrivastava 242

Handloom area assumes an essential part of the nation’s economy. various social welfare measurements have shown a positive sign in
The economic liberalization, uniqueness, flexibility of production, the growth of Indian handloom sectors. Especially when the quality
openness to innovation, adaptability to the supplier’s desires, cluster of Handloom lies in its own creative outlines and the same becomes
approach, strategies to aggressive marketing, and implementation of difficult for the power loom sector to replicate (Table 1).

Table 1 Cloth production by Indian Handloom Sectors (in million sq. meters) (Annual report 2017-18, Min. of Textiles, GOI)1

Total cloth Cloth production by Share of handloom in total Ratio Handloom to Powerloom
Year
production* handloom sector cloth production (in terms of cloth)

2010-11 61761 6907 11.18 01:05.5

2011-12 59605 6901 11.57 01:05.4

2012-13 61949 6952 11.22 01:05.5

2013-14 62624 7104 11.34 01:05.2

2014-15 64332 7203 11.19 01:05.2

2015-16 64584 7638 11.82 0.376388889

2016-17 63480 8007 12.61 01:04.4

2017-18 43520(p) 5134(p) 11.8 01:04.9

(upto Nov.’17)        
*The total cloth production includes handloom, power loom and mill sector excluding hosiery, khadi, wool and silk

Most of the states in India are only 20% urban having presence move towards a more progressively economic social order. Craft of
of relevant industries. Along with agriculture, education, health, any nature as such offers various influences which focuses on aspects
handloom and handicraft sector are important segments that have of connections between monetary and instructive models leading to
been crying for attention in many states of India. The handloom and mapping of sustainable development. This contribution can be an
handicraft sectors in India have had strong linkages with the agriculture option and a mechanism to move towards an increasingly imaginative
regions in the states. These are presumed to be the evidences leading diverse meaning of “sustainability” which will help it to take it further
to acute capital scarcity in the sector.5 into “tirelessness” of specialty and its job in “present-day” social
scenarios context. This will be an way out for a constructive evaluation
Bhagaiya is a craft cluster in Jharkhand, where handloom weaving
for assessment of such domains. The evaluated aspects examined the
is being practiced for more than over 100 years. The weavers including
work as a mechanism to improve the comprehension of the manners
women and children of the household actively take part in the practice
by which contemporary craft is rehearsed and in connection towards
of this craft. The changing dynamics of the fashion industry and its
development towards sustainability. Attempt has been made to place a
impact on the lifestyle, income, design process, design innovations,
prologue to craft for sustainable development and to also review crafts
final products, marketing, etc is quite evident today and the survival
practiced in region of Kutch for drawing parallels into the findings.
lies into the basic fact of understanding the USP of these Handloom
Sectors and identifying way forward towards new market zones The performance-based factors for the Indian
which should not be limited to the areas in which it is practiced. The
strength of this sector lies in its own uniqueness, added to it being handloom sector
less capital intensive, usage of minimal electricity, tagged as having There are few Sustainable approaches which can be easily adopted
eco-friendly quality, flexibility of small production, adaptability to to rejuvenate the Handloom Weavers in India and that they can help
market requirements, openness to innovations and carrying forward of identify areas where it can be implemented. The areas may relate to
the traditions. This sector faces challenges and immense competition marketing and publicity support; welfare measures; infrastructure
from the price aggressive power-loom industry and also in terms of supports; composite growth based schemes leading to modernization
skills, aesthetics, contemporary methods, infrastructure and supply and machinery up-gradation in technology; Development in import
chain. Unavailability of raw materials at the right time and at regular and export scheme; Wages, employment and livelihood issues;
rates, inefficient advertising and marketing tools and sales procedures tackling unfair competition from mills and power looms; enhancement
add more worries for the survival of the Handlooms. The government of Value; eliminating Intermediaries; better Cooperative system;
has identified this business as a rural venture and has provided patenting designs/varieties; design improvements; raw material supply
various initiatives and policies for its revival. The government’s and prices; ensuring adequate and timely credit supply; illiteracy and
‘Atmanirbharta’ program, the ‘Vocal for Local’ campaign, together poverty among weavers.1,2
with ‘Make in India’, presents a huge opportunity to the handloom
sectors which can strengthen and position it in the global textiles While examining the potentiality of sustainability in the region it
space. In India, the handloom sector is one of the largest unorganized is necessary to ensure that the weaker sections who are dependent
economic activities after agriculture and constitutes an integral part of for their livelihood on Handloom and Handicraft do not experience
the rural and semi-rural areas with over 4.3 million people, directly distress due to adverse competition from Power loom. It is also
and indirectly, involved in the production. necessary to ensure that these rich craft and traditions return in terms
of higher wages for the artisans. This would be possible only if the
It has been seen that the Potential associations among crafts and demand for these products starts commanding higher prices both in
sustainable development methods have together helped handcrafts to

Citation: Shrivastava S. Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2020;6(6):241‒248.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2020.06.00257
 Copyright:
Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India ©2020 Shrivastava 243

the domestic as well as international market. This would need rigorous are mostly exported to Delhi, Bangalore and Kolkata, where the
and sustained promotional efforts. It has been observed that in the last demand for TG is higher. Earlier only plain sarees were weaved in
two decades several state govt. who have realized the employment the loom but during the past few years, weavers and designers have
and value addition potential of the textile and handloom sector have introduced new designs. Sarees are now made of various designs, and
come out with their own Textile policies tailored to attract investment some are made using ghicha silk, some are made with pallu having
in specific sub-segments and specific areas within the State. ghicha silk and some have borders of zari. Weavers normally work on
these design which is ordered by Mahajans (Middlemen). Embroidery
A case study on Bhagaiya, Jharkhand: work is slowly becoming an integral part of all sarees and today sarees
unraveling the weaver’s scenario and shawls can be seen with beautiful embroideries. The demand of
these products are less in the local market due to the cost factor which
The main aim of this survey was to study considered data and the seems higher for the region. The weavers make these products only
lively components of the craft and its status at Bhagaiya, Jharkhand. on confirmed orders which may be as new designer product. In spite
This was done to bring out the aspects and important elements needed of the hardships and problems being faced in selling the traditional
for the progression of this craft and the craftsmen. This research has motifs, most of them still want to follow the traditional design that
tried to understand the distribution chain, map the practices through a was practiced earlier.
diagnostic research and understand it in the way the handloom sector
is performing across the country. In the process the gap between the The handloom sector in India has been gaining its position as
past and the current practices in this craft was ascertained and the the demand from the market is increasing. After Jharcraft has been
difference between the supply and demand was addressed. Further set up, the weavers including their families are being provided with
attempts to find out the changes and advancement in the design of the various subsidies governed by various government policies state or
products over the years also resulted in an interesting roadmap. central. They are also provided with skill education in various fields
of textiles. Most of the weavers have set up looms in their houses
Apart from the general practices limited to this trade, here it was supported or funded by Jharcraft.
found that the dry cocoons (called ‘Goti’ in the local language) are
brought from the market of Jagdalpur, Chattisgarh at the rate of Opportunities for handloom weavers using
Rs.6 to7 per piece. Apart from this the other raw materials used are
natural resources
tussar silk cocoon, soda, sugar, khapra (local language) and water.
The preparation work is done manually by the female members of the Before the beginning of the 20th century, all colors used for textile
family. No part of the cocoon is wasted as the left over’s are dried and coloration came from nature, there were no other alternatives by
sold in the market. This normally is used for doing design innovation which it could be produced. Natural dyes were the only source of
by the weavers. The looms and other accessories used for weaving are color available until the turn of the century; therefore, they were
Natua (wooden-framed conical spool used to wrap the yarn around widely used. After the discovery of synthetic dyes by William Henry
it), Rehti (wooden small-sized charkha), Bobbin or Pirn, Charkhi Perkin in 1856, there was a complete change in the way the same
(Wooden or iron tool used to transfer yarn from hank to bobbin) and was practiced. Since synthetic dyes have moderate to excellent color
winding machine. fastness properties, the demand and use of natural dyes having poor
to moderate wash and light fastness properties as against synthetic
After the yarn is extracted from cocoons it is subjected to drying
dyes stated losing its demand. Unfortunately, the natural dyes are
in sunlight. The dried yarns are then wrapped on a tool locally called
rarely used in modern dyeing nowadays, except by some companies
Natua which is used for warp yarn and weft remains in the shuttle for
and craft dyers supporting the cause of organic trade. Today synthetic
weaving (Figure 1).
chemicals that are used in different dyes for the textile industry have
become some of the principal sources of environmental pollution.
Synthetic dye substances cause allergies in human beings and also
has several carcinogenic properties. On the other hand since natural
dyes are obtained from renewable resources and they do not have
any health hazards, they are biodegradable and are non-toxic; they
are once again getting importance owing to the growing awareness
of environmental problems coupled with the toxicity associated with
the use of synthetic dyes. In addition to that, some of the natural dyes
have good antioxidant and medicinal properties. Because of this
natural dyes are commonly used in the cosmetic, food, and textile
Figure 1 (a) Pirns with Ghicha silk winding, (b) Tussar silk saree. industries due to their no harmful side effects, UV protection, and
In the weaving process, it has been observed that the male anti-aging properties.
members of the village are generally involved from setting up the The importance of environmentally friendly antimicrobial agents
loom till the fabric is woven. Extensive use of Korean silk yarn was derived from natural products and its application on textiles have has
being used for warp due to its characteristics of being translucent in had a great past and is looking for a great future. Natural product- based
nature and having higher strength. The Korean silk yarn gave the bioactive agents such as natural dyes, chitosan, neem extract, and
fabric an even and more colorful tone while making plain weave but other herbal products were reviewed for their antimicrobial activity
of late it is being used for twill also and its derivative weave types. on the textile substrate. The mechanism of antimicrobial action had
There are mainly three types of products used such as tussar ghicha been presented along with that a brief review of the active ingredients
(also called TG is in demand) dress material, sarees, and stoles. The found in extracts of natural products was also done. Dyeing property
fabric generally has tussar as warp yarn and ghicha as weft yarn. This of soybean protein fabric using natural coloring matter extracted from
material is mainly used for making of shirts and kurta. The materials marigold and tannin mordant such as tamarind seed coats, amla and

Citation: Shrivastava S. Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2020;6(6):241‒248.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2020.06.00257
 Copyright:
Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India ©2020 Shrivastava 244

harda (Myrobalan fruits). The antibacterial property of cotton dyed have given this land unique shading and character. Art and craft are
samples was also investigated. The colorfastness properties including inseparable from the various communities, associated in terms of
light, washing and rubbing of dyed and mordanted fabrics were trade, agriculture in Kutch and is popularly known as Khamir.
assessed. The results of the fastness properties of the cotton dyed
fabrics were fair to good.
Handloom fabrics become much better after the natural plant
resources such as coloration, antibacterial, ultra-violet protection and
flame retardant properties using coconut shell extract, Sterculiafoetida
fruit shell extract, Delonixregia stem shell extract, temple flower waste
extract, etc was used. The effects of different functional properties of
natural resources using the plant, animal and clay on the performance
properties of the handloom textile materials can be used for value-
added products.6–11 The hand-painted fabric has the potential for
giving an elegant look to various handloom fabrics used for apparel
and home furnishing purpose. Efforts were also made to create khadi
clothes more appealing with advanced design interventions through
printing using colorants extracted from organic sources.12,13

Handicraft: A contributing factor towards

Figure 2 The mesmerizing picture of Kutch.
sustainability
Khamir signifies ‘natural pleasure’ in Kutchi, the community
‘Craft’ is typically interpreted as an article that has a high level
language. Khamir attempts to reinforce and improve the rich and
of hand-made and man-made features, however, which isn’t made or
high conventions related to this place which has its own Heritage,
structured utilizing conventional materials. Craft most of the times is
Art, Music and related Information and Resources. Today, it fills in
created for smaller groups and hence its impact on coming generations
beautifully as a stage for the development of conventional crafted
is not normally felt. Further such makers have reduced in number
works and unified social practices, the strategies engaged with their
due to the trade not being economically viable. Today any craft must
introduction, and the conservation of subculture, community and
possess some of the key elements that has the potential to affect the
community conditions. The endeavor to make it more popular and
economic viability of the Country. The craft sectors have been an
an engaging space, special attention is being given to provide scope
ignored area even though the craft sector is projected as patterned and
to interested partners who can trade ideas and work hand in hand.
dynamic. There are many avenues for raising awareness of various
The work is more focused on the purchaser point of view and at the
craft disciplines and how to use it for sustainable fashion. If there
same time to the social worth put on the artworks. Their vision is of
can be a steady spot light on it, the resistances towards it and the
a dynamic Indian environment in which artworks and craftsmen both
movement towards mass-created and institutionalized items would
can command high esteem by individuals around the world (Figure 3).
not be that critical.
The significant modernization and its alarming usage of the
resources have over the decades depleted the earth and its environment
leading to troublesome changes in the atmosphere. The extensive
usage of resources are crying for attention and various platforms
are making pathways for defining and redefining what is meant by
sustainable development.
The concept of sustainable improvement depends on the concept of
innovation (monetary development by herbal necessities), the concept
of requirements, and the idea of who and what is to come back. The
essence of any such feasible improvement receives its essence from
ecological help with an aim to concentrate on retaining the nature
and its balance. Nowadays, the possibility of maintainability and
reasonable development has appeared many a corner with changing
interpretations and responses. This implies that continuous efforts to
enhance the range of the product’s existence cycle, from raw material,
manufacturing, design, production, storage, shipping, advertising, and Figure 3 The organization – Khamir.
to the very last sale is being recognized and now being extensively
Kutch is a hub for a variety of crafts that are colorful, vibrant,
practiced.
and contribute towards sustainability (Figure 4). These are listed as
Case study for crafts of Kutch Ajrakh block printing, Bandhani, Batik print, Bela print, Camel wool
weaving, Embroidery, Kutch Weaving, Kala cotton, Kharad Weaving,
The impeccable and endlessly imaginative customs of Kutch Mashroo Weaving, Cattle Bells, Namda, Pottery, Recycled plastic
remain alive due to the beautiful convergence of societies and cultures. weaving, Rogan Painting.
Kutch has a huge advantage due to the amount of ocean exchange
that it can interplay with (Figure 2). While weaving has turned into When we hear the world is humming with “sustainability” and
a specialty synonymous with Kutch, other artworks and specialties “environment friendly”, this place has already made its mark in the

Citation: Shrivastava S. Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2020;6(6):241‒248.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2020.06.00257
 Copyright:
Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India ©2020 Shrivastava 245

areas of the same with its huge patterns, endless designs in the craft Chemical dyes are a noteworthy source of contamination in block
that have existed and coexisted amicability with nature. Products made printing towns. Different lethal colors and synthetic concoctions are
here have the uniqueness of being subtle but still remain so striking discarded in-town fields with no type of treatment. These synthetic
that the visitors cannot resist the opportunity to value the style in their colors are modest and moderate, effectively made in mass. Today, a
own very unique creation. Amongst the basket of such unique craft, couple of printers utilize vegetable colors. Characteristic assets once
one such craft is the Ajrak. Generally, Ajrak is the name of a block used to make regular hues are never used locally on account of the
printed fabric with deep crimson red and indigo blue background, biological impacts of the 1946 and 2001 earthquakes and the loss of
bearing symmetrical patterns with interspersed unprinted sparkling life spread from ongoing industrialization.
white motifs. An old craft, the historical backdrop of the Ajrak can
Earlier the block printers had a stable customer base. Presently
be followed back to the civic establishments of the Indus Valley that
with the increasingly reasonable manufactured fabric and a shifting
existed around 2400 BC-1400 BC. Ajrakh fabric conveys numerous
marketplace, the network linkages established have lost their faith and
meanings. The prominent story practiced by printers is that Ajrakh
trust. As a result numerous conventional dresses and prints have seen
signifies “keep it today”. It is likewise connected to Azrakh, the Arabic
an end. The conventional lungi is also losing its aura. Different items
word for indigo, a blue plant that flourishes in the bone-dry nature of
like Pada are likewise being worn in manufactured textures all the
Kutch. Ajrakhis depicted through complex geometry patterns to make
more regularly. Kanbi Patel ladies have embraced synthetic saris as
starry constellations in indigo, madder, white and dark crosswise over
their outfit. Generally, printers make dress material for national and
lengths of material. The shapes and themes of Ajrakh look like the
global purchasers in a profoundly competitive market.
architectural forms of Islamic design’s many-sided jali windows and
trefoil curves. Water management issues represent a danger to coloring and
printing rehearses in Kutch. Through a progression of studies, Khamir
has recognized a focal need to revive water tables with better water
management. This incorporates encouraging water treatment in
towns and making frameworks for reusing water utilized in coloring.
Understanding the prompt requirement for water security, Khamir did
the pilot study and implementation of the water treatment through a
small Effluent Treatment Plant. Supported by these outcomes, Khamir
is currently working with the craftsmen to build up an enormous
scale treatment plant to be overseen at the town level. Advancing
eco-accommodating colors alongside better treatment practices
will expand the supportability of the neighborhood nature and their
specialty. Apart from water, Khamir has made different adaptation to
consistently renew this part. This incorporates presenting new blocks,
products, and raw materials to the printing families and encouraging
stages to exhibit items all over India and universally. The Ajrak is for
the most part is about 2.4-3meters long. The actual Ajrak is imprinted
Figure 4 The market of Kutch. on the facets through a method referred to as resist printing. The
Ajrakh is a noble seal for the nearby communities of Kutch. printing is completed by using hand with hand-reduce woodblocks.
Roaming pastoralists and farming groups like the Rabaris, Maldharis, A few wonderful blocks are utilized to present the trademark endured
and Ahirs wear Ajrakh printed fabric as turbans, lungis, or stoles. The designing. Making the blocks is a considerable test considering the
material is made in a sixteen stage procedure of washing, coloring, instance wishes to synchronize splendidly with the entire of the Ajrak
printing, and drying, which requires an abnormal state of aptitude and just as spread specific zones towards dye. The Ajrak print is employed
focus to keep hues quick and even. Pomegranate seeds, gum, Harde inside a grid, the repetitive pattern growing an internet-like design
powder, wood, flour of Kachika, the blossom of Dhavadi, alizarine, or the important jaal. Apart from this jaal, border designs also are
and privately developed Indigo are only a portion of the characteristic employed inside the material. These borders are aligned both vertically
assets of this art (Figure 5). and horizontally and body the crucial area, distinguishing one ajrak
from every other. The lateral ends have revealed the usage of a much
broader, double margin to differentiate the layouts of borders. Ajrak
printing is a long procedure including numerous phases of printing
and washing the texture again and again with different characteristic
colors and mordants, for example, harda, lime, alizarin, indigo, and
even camel dung. The system of resist printing permits restrictive
assimilation of color in the ideal parts on the zones proposed to be
left uncolored. The raw material is pulled very well thru the river
normally, scoured, beaten, steamed, mordanted, revealed with resist
mud glues from the banks of the river, secured with powdered camel
dung and ground rice husks; colored in deep madder and indigo.
Unlike other approaches of printing on cloth, in which the color
is carried out without delay to the fabric, in Ajrak block printing, the
fabric is first revealed with a withstand paste after which it is dyed.
The procedure is repeated again and again with special types of dyes,
Figure 5 Ajrak block printing. to subsequently acquire the final sample within the deep pink and blue

Citation: Shrivastava S. Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2020;6(6):241‒248.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2020.06.00257
 Copyright:
Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India ©2020 Shrivastava 246

colors. This sluggish technique is also very time-ingesting because the forms the dye resist region of the fabric. The women artisans for the
longer an artisan waits before starting the next step, the prints come most part complete the tying work. To make finer dots the pulled zone
out more shiner and last long. The entire process can take up to two of fabric should be much smaller. For greater areas, the fabric is tied in
weeks to ensure the beautiful fascinating patterns of the Ajrak. Water knots of differing sizes. The tying procedure is done securing the area
is essential to the creation of Ajrak cloth. Craftsmen take the cloth meant for creating the design. The strings utilized are generally cotton
through a procedure that can include more than thirty separate strides or synthetic nylon. The string might be covered with a resist material in
as first the fabric is made ready or be mordanted and then colored. the case of cotton string. The string is persistently twisted from knot to
Through each stage, the character of the water will impact everything knot without cutting. This empowers the string to be reused again for
– from the shades of the hues themselves to the success or failure of various occasions. After the fabric has been tied, it is washed to expel
the whole procedure. the fugitive color imprinted on the cloth. The material is dyed with a
light shade, for example, yellow. After the first dye, the free knots on
Bandhani otherwise called Bandhej; is a kind of tie and dye craft
the fabric are re‐tied in a fixing procedure. For a complex design, the
that is enhanced by culling the fabric into numerous ties that form
resist tying happens more than once in different sizes according to
a design. The word Bandhani comes from a Sanskrit word ‘Banda’
the design. The fabric is dyed again for different patterns if any and
which signifies ‘to tie’. The technique of Bandhani includes dyeing
afterward washed and dried. The fabric might be progressively tied
the fabric which is firmly tied with a string at several spots to deliver
and dyed in different hues for multi-colored designs.
various patterns.
Batik is an old art that uses wax and dyes to make a visual
In Kutch, tie and dye textile is known as “Bandhani”. Bandhani
enchantment on fabric. It is accepted that the term is a derivation from
goes back to the twelfth century and came to Kutch when individuals
the word ‘Ambatik’ which when interpreted represents a piece of fabric
from the Khatri people group relocated from Sindh. Bandhani tie
with little dots or composing with wax or drawing in broken lines. It
and dye found a place with the East India Company in the eighteenth
is workmanship valued everywhere throughout the world. There are
century. Much like the local block printers, bandhani craftsman
changed speculations about the place and time of the beginning of
utilized available natural resources like madder and pomegranate to
Batik. In India, the underlying foundations of Batik can be traced to
color their fabric with a huge array of tones. The system of firmly
the first century AD. Customarily, the Khatri group of Gujarat were
winding a string around a segment of cloth and then dyeing it. The
the main set of craftsman for this workmanship. Over a while, Batik
design after unwinding of the string is so mesmerizing as the designs
got consigned to the foundation in India. However, in the twentieth
take up a circular depiction. After the 1946 earthquake of Kutch,
century, Batik was presented as a major aspect of the prospectus in the
synthetic dyes made their way to the way bandhani as a craft was
University of Shanti Niketan – Kolkata. Subsequently, the resurgence
practiced. Synthetic dyes are cheap and affordable and the easy
of Batik started. For quite a long time, customers were happy with the
availability of the same slowly eradicated and limited the utilization
botanical and figural motifs of Batik. Batik possibly was the number
of vegetable dyes.
one enterprise in Kutch at one time. It turned into huge fabric export
Today, the Khatri people are the main producer of Bandhani in to Indonesia and since then Indonesian populations have been in
Gujarat, keeping up with the dominance of the art that has been with particular connected to the Gujarati madder, a darkish purple shade
them for ages. Khatris in Kutch are generally Hindus or Muslims. dye that also became essential to their locale.
The demand for intricate designs featuring Bandhani is high, and the
Initially, Batik prints were made via plunging a block into hot piloo
most current patterns can feature upto having one lakh ties (dots).
seed oil, which was then pressed onto the fabric. After coloring, the oil
Bandhani is utilized for day to day clothing and during auspicious
glue was stripped off to find a print. The adoption of wax changed the
occasions like birth, weddings, and worship. Khatris are making new
look of the fabric. In wax printing the slim entices of dye run through
forms of Bandhani to fit the desire of modern and increasingly global
the motif creating a lovely veined appearance and the same is much in
customers. They try differently with the size, shape, and situation of
demand. Wax print batik thrived in Kutch for the duration of the 1960s
each dot on the fabric to offer an entirely different range of items.
due to the artistic endeavors and growing in global sectors addressing
Seeing the need to control the utilization of synthetic dyes in the Hippie culture. The rise of chemical dyes did not impact the Batik
Kutch with the goal to restrict further biological harm done to the and the way it was done as it could not give the impact being seen
earth, water, and individuals, Khamir started activities to popularize before.
and show the estimation of natural dyes, making natural dyestuffs
Batik craftsmen nowadays are scuffling to remain afloat in a
increasingly available to the present-day craftsman. Khamir has
complicated and competitive market. Their style of printing is in
directed workshops and training with Bandhani craftsmen to open
most cases repeated by screen and laser printers, which could make
them to progressively sustainable practices. The fabric is tied finely
textiles in larger quantities to sell in mass. Post-60’s the ubiquity
with strings and dyed in stages in various hues. The tied material
of Batik started blurring and giving ways to the new dimension of
when opened outcomes in different examples and themes. The plan
fashionable product emerging out of industrialization and extensive
for Bandhani is transferred onto the material utilizing shading. A
use of chemical dyes.
plastic sheet with pinholes pattern of the design is utilized as a stencil
to move the motif onto the fabric. Then again the design is block‐ Before Khamir, Shri Vivekanand Gramodyog Society labored for a
printed on the material. long time as of now to revive Batik. Khamir mediates through running
with craftsmen to adopt new blocks, patterns, and collaborators so that
The printed pattern zones on the fabric are then pulled up and tied
Batik printers modernize their art and make it saleable. Khamir has
firmly with string into a bunch called a bindhi. The material is pulled
likewise discovered a way to document and archive oral narratives of
by squeezing with the assistance of the fingernails or with a little nail
Batik on this location, to be able to help the historical past of the craft
shaped metal ring, and then firmly tying it around with a string. This
as a source of data, motivation, and records for destiny Batik printers

Citation: Shrivastava S. Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2020;6(6):241‒248.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2020.06.00257
 Copyright:
Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India ©2020 Shrivastava 247

and consumer networks. Through information about the marketplace, community. By reusing plastic backpacks for younger students, and
Batik craft can be sustained. making powerful and alluring items, Khamir is attempting to create
an impression about the goodness of reuse of waste.
The artwork of batik is a three-stage method of waxing, dyeing,
and dewaxing (removal of the wax). There are likewise a few sub- Gujarat is famous for its fine folk embroideries. Each of the Kutch’s
procedures like setting up the cloth, tracing the designs, extending the numerous networks has a particular weaving convention that has been
cloth on the body, waxing the sector of the material that does not need passed on for ages from mother to the daughter. This weaving with its
dyeing, putting in place the dye, dipping the fabric in dye, heating rich structures has made a striking commitment to the Indian weaving
the cloth to evacuate wax and washing the cloth in a cleanser. The customs. The weaving rehearsed regularly by ladies is commonly
trademark effects of the batik are the excellent breaks that display up done on textures of cotton, as a net using cotton or silk strings. In
within the wax, which enable small quantities of the dye to seep in. specific examples, it is additionally created over silk and glossy silk.
Batik wax practices an essential characteristic within the manner of
Today, Kutch is home to various kinds of weavings that embellish
batik printing.
the area’s dress and textures. Probably the most visible weavings
Appropriate use of wax consequences into a flawless batik work. include Jat, Ahir, Sodha Rajput, Rabari and Soof. Women in each
30 percent beeswax and 70 percent paraffin wax is commonly carried community embroider using specific stitches and motifs as a form
out. During application, wax needs not be overheated or it will burst of individual and community expression. For instance, Sodha Rajput
into flames. The normal batik fabric that brings out extraordinary batik ladies wear an embroidered choli and coat after marriage, while
prints are cambric, poplin, voiles, and natural silk. Natural coloring widows wear a plain and dull colored material.
agents collected from barks of timber, leaves, blooms and minerals
Mashroo was a craft specialty, delivered in huge amounts until
is applied.
the 1900’s for local elite markets. The Maheshwari weavers practiced
Bela prints are intense and realistic. They catch your attention with this craft. The Mashroo material was woven for Muslim people, who
a lively palette of printed color on a plain white background. Various thought that silk should not touch an individual’s skin. The significance
tints are accomplished utilizing natural and vegetable dyes. Bagru, of Mashroo is “this is permitted”. The port town of Mandvi is at the
Rajasthan, is most celebrated for producing this kind of mordant focal point of Mashroo heritage in Kutch. In the areas of Saurashtra
printed textile. However, Kutch has been a producer area of Bela-style and Kutch, ladies stitch mashroo kanjari (bare-backed pullovers),
material for whatever length of time that individuals can recollect. skirts, and cholis. Mashroo helped weave communities together. The
Quite a while in the past, East Kutch delivered numerous mordant Ahir Patels created cotton, which was handspun and afterward given
resist fabrics commonly referred to as Patthar, which were utilized to the weavers. Rabari and Ahir ladies did weaving and mirror work to
as dowry gifts. Red and dark hues are iconic of Bela printing, colors make variants of mashroo. Today, customary mashroo weaving is on
that were utilized the most for their color fastness. Bagru frequently the verge of extinction. The dressing styles of the Kutch individuals
includes huge scale and graphic prints, characterized by a solid have changed, serving the native community linkages. Mashroo
mordant-printing method wherein the printer applies vegetable dye material can be made by power looms today, which individuals prefer
directly to a piece of fabric with a wooden block. Khamir is attempting to the more expensive handmade mashroos. With a declining export
to revitalize Bela-style printing to make inventively designed printed house, mashroo weavers are utilizing cotton staples rather than silk to
bags and bolts of fabric in deep reds and rich blacks. meet the value needs of the local market. The first mashroo of cotton
and silk, with its rich surface, isn’t produced any longer because
Kharad Weaving is a sort of one of a kind weaving technique. This
there is no market for this product. Mashroo is woven with a 7 to
art was practiced by a couple of groups of Marwada, Meghwal and
12 peddle loom which requires the craftsman to skillfully move their
Sodha Rajput people group. Customarily, Kharad was utilized as floor
hands and legs in harmony. There are eighty strings in a mashroo per
covers in winter. This craft was extensively practiced all through the
inch, which is a lot higher than in a standard woven material. It is
Rann of Kutch. The common raw materials required for Kharad Craft
hard for a weaver to make a piece that is both enormous in size and
are fleece and vegetable colorings. Kutch has a powerful custom of
high in thread count, thus Mashroo is just accessible in a width of 23
animal farming. The availability of camels and other domestic animals
inches. The unadulterated silk once used to make Mashroo was later
like goats and sheep become an excellent source for fleece. Initially,
supplemented by silk, rayon and staple cotton.
Kharad rugs have been produced using goat and camel hair fleece.
The Maldharis and Rabaris shear the hair from camels and goats. This Like other crafts, the art of copper covered bells advanced from the
is given to the hand-spinners who make fleece out of the goat and need of the time and district. Live-stock was a noteworthy occupation
camel hair which is used for making of floor covers. in Kutch. The Lohar people group from Sindh, (presently in Pakistan)
saw the potential for their specialty and carried the art to the place
Moving towards a more sustainable environment, the plastic waste
where there is Kutch. The majority of the copper bell craftsman want
is collected by agencies in the area. The plastic pieces of various hues
their next generation to take up the art as an occupation. Copper bell
are woven into strong materials. Nylon is utilized for the twist, and
making included materials like mud, the wood of ‘Prosophis Julifera’
plastic structures the weft, making thick material helpful formats,
and water. Mud was effectively accessible at Zura town and water is
knapsacks, or pads. Weaving is a skill intrinsic for the Kutch, and the
not much needed, bell producers have announced a shortage of good
reused plastic is woven utilizing an innovation old to Kutch - the pit
quality wood as the charcoal producers use up huge parts of ‘Prosopis
loom. The Recycled Plastic activity is a case of how art can adjust
Julifera’. The metal bell craftsman has been supported since the last
space and create additional source of income generation for marginal
40 years through a business association with a noteworthy purchaser
people. This is an aptitude that can be effectively put in place by neo-
from the US who purchases these chimes as Christmas stock.
weavers and that can add value to the waste and the earnings.
In Kutch, the Pinjara and Mansuri people group make felted
Khamir is working towards overturning local stigmas associated
Namda from indigenous sheep fleece. After the fleece is gathered,
with waste reuse by introducing plastic woven items into the local
cleaned, colored, and packed into sheets, craftsmen make brilliant and

Citation: Shrivastava S. Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2020;6(6):241‒248.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2020.06.00257
 Copyright:
Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India ©2020 Shrivastava 248

multifaceted structures that are frequently weaved. Namda is used Conflicts of interest
to make seat covers for horses and camels and Supplication mats.
Khamir is working towards bringing these crafts to a forefront and The authors have no conflicts of interest regarding the publication
keeping the sustainability factor sin to huge consideration.14,15 of this paper.

Conclusion References
The handloom textile is highly fragmented and labour-intensive. 1. Annual Report (2017-18). Ministry of textiles. Government of India;
2018.
Case study of the weavers who have been practicing their traditions
generation after generation still reveal the ordeal that these pathways 2. Agnihotri MP. Dead end at the silk road: the possible revival of the
face when competing with the ever changing dynamics of the needs Banaras handloom industry. Prabandhan: Indian Journal of Management.
of the customers and the economy at large. The way they still hold 2015;8(8):30–38.
on to pit looms and traditional designs is mesmerizing and every 3. Bhalla K, Kumar T, Rangaswamy J. An integrated rural development
weaver has their own unique story which cannot be defined easily. model based on comprehensive life-cycle assessment (LCA) of Khadi-
What comes out is that the changing consumer appetite for newness Handloom industry in rural India. Procedia CIRP. 2018;69:493–498.
and variety, the model of how we make and purchase challenges all 4. Banerjee AN, Pandit P, Maulik SR. Eco-friendly approaches to rejuvenate
the opportunities which are made available to the Indian handloom the Khadi udyog in Assam. 2019;18(2):346–350.
sector. The government policies and other approaches can rejuvenate
the Handloom Weavers in India but one cannot sit on one BODMAS 5. Ramchandra KP. Towards improving productivity of solapur based
rule. Every region has its own ambition and purpose and that is why textsitles SMEs. 2015.
the regions become unique and hence their requirement also becomes 6. Pandit P, Gayatri TN, Maiti S. Green and sustainable textile materials
unique. using natural resources. Green and Sustainable Advanced Materials:
Processing and Characterization. 2018;1:213–261.
Potential associations among handicrafts and sustainable
development from the case study of Kutch. Craft, as we can put, has 7. Teli MD, Pandit P. Multifunctionalised silk using Delonix regia stem shell
done a lot towards bridging the gap between sustainable development waste. Fibers and Polymers. 2017;18(9):1679–1690.
and design. Various examples of crafts from Kutch which are made 8. Teli MD, Pandit P. Application of Sterculia foetida fruit shell waste
from recycled materials or are in some way sustainable and a path biomolecules on silk for aesthetic and wellness properties. Fibers and
towards sustainability. It also emphasized how craft is a very important Polymers. 2018;19(1):41–54.
way forward towards sustainable development and how the crossing 9. Maulik SR, Agarwal K. Painting on handloom cotton fabric with
points among the crafts of Kutch play an important role in sustainable colourants extracted from natural sources. 2014;13(3):589–595.
development for a better future in India. India’s Government has put
up great efforts to make handloom clothes and handicraft attractive 10. Pandey R, Pandit P, Pandey S, et al. Solutions for sustainable fashion
and textile industry. Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A
with the latest and innovative design. The rural economy in India has Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach. 2020;15:33.
to be strengthened by strengthening the Handcraft sectors.
11. Pandit P, Shrivastava S, Maulik SR, et al. Challenges and opportunities of
The Bhagaiya craft cluster in Jharkhand is one such example waste in handloom textiles. Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles:
of where practices from regions of Kutch can be evaluated to be A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach. 2020;15:123.
synthesized with the gaps prevailing in the region and make it move
12. Maulik SR, Bhowmik L, Agarwal K. Batik on handloom cotton fabric
towards a much demanded handcrafted product not only restricted to with natural dye. 2014;13(4):788–794.
India but Globally.
13. https://cgi.standrews.ac.uk/media/sasi/documents/Craft%20and%20
Acknowledgments Sustainable%20Development.pdf

None. 14. https://www.standrews.ac.uk/media/sasi/documents/Craft%20and%20

Sustainable%20Development.pdf
Funding 15. https://kutchcraftstudio.wordpress.com/craft-treasure/kharad-weaving/
None.

Citation: Shrivastava S. Sustainable approaches to rejuvenate the handloom and handicraft in India. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2020;6(6):241‒248.
DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2020.06.00257