Exp.

5 - Continuity Test for a given Electrical Circuit

Need for Continuity Testing:

Regulation 610.1 of BS 7671:2008 IEE Wiring Regulations necessitates that every

installation shall during erection and on completion before being put into service,
be inspected and tested to verify that the requirements of the Regulations have been met. The
purpose of this test is to verify that the Circuit Protective Conductors (CPC) forms a
continuous path around the circuit under test. 
A continuity test is an important test in determining the damaged components or broken
conductors in a circuit. It can also help in determining if the soldering is good, if the
resistance is too high for flow of current or if the electrical wire is broken between two
points. A continuity test can also help in verifying or reverse-engineering an electrical circuit
or connection.  
Continuity testing can be used to detect cold solder connections and problems with wire and
cable products. In field applications, handheld multimeters with dual probes are used. In
addition, this form of electrical testing can be used to check connections between the pads
and traces on printed circuit boards (PCBs).

Principle/ Concept of Continuity Testing: 

The most common and fundamental basis of performing a continuity test is with the aid of a
resistance tester (any simple multimeter with this function will be appropriate) since the
resistance of conductors between the two ends is usually very small (less than 100 ohm). 
Continuity tester has two leads connected to a small battery, and when the leads are touched
together to complete the circuit, it is required that the meter registers ‘0’ resistance or if a
dedicated continuity tester is utilized, the light should glow. If a digital multimeter,is used the
device may also beep. 
It is essential that the continuity of protective conductors including main and supplementary
equipotential bonding is also ensured. Every protective conductor, including circuit protective
conductors, the earthing conductor, main and supplementary bonding conductors should be
tested to verify that all bonding conductors are connected to the supply earth. Tests are made
between the main earthing terminal (this may be the earth bar in the consumer unit where
there is no distribution board present) and the ends of each bonding conductor.
Generic Aspects for Continuity Testing: 

Measuring Continuity in an Electrical Device: 

This method is used for testing continuity is an easy and reliable way to determine whether a
switch or outlet has internal damage. If a multimeter is used, set it to the “Continuity”
function or select a mid-range resistance setting, in ohms. 
Step 1: Turn Off the Breaker That Controls the Circuit 
The power needs to be off when testing continuity. Verify that no electricity is flowing by
using a non-contact circuit tester. 
 Step 2: Check the Tester 
Check the tester by putting the leads together and ensuring that the device lights up, beeps or
registers ‘0’ ohms of resistance. 
Step 3: Touch Lead to Terminal 
Touch one lead on one of the hot terminals of the device, identified by a brass screw. 
Step 4: Touch Other Lead to Terminal 
Place the other lead on any other terminal except the green ground terminal. If the tester
lights up, beeps or shows ‘0’ resistance, it means that electricity can flow freely between
those terminals, and in most cases, that means that the device is good. If the device is a
switch, the tester should go off and on when you flip the switch. 
This technique can be used to check appliance switches, thermostats and fuses. Be sure the
power is off, then touch the leads to the terminals of the device in question.

Continuity Testing Overview

 Continuity is the presence of a complete path for current flow. A circuit is complete
when its switch is closed. 
 A digital multimeter’s Continuity Test mode can be used to test switches, fuses,
electrical connections, conductors and other components. A good fuse, for example, should
have continuity. 
 A DMM emits an audible response (a beep) when it detects a complete path. 
 The beep, an audible indicator, permits technicians to focus on testing procedures
without looking at the multimeter display. 
 When testing for continuity, a multimeter beeps based on the resistance of the
component being tested. That resistance is determined by the range setting of the multimeter.
Examples: 
 If the range is set to 400.0 Ω, a multimeter typically beeps if the component has a
resistance of 40 Ω or less. 
 If the range is set 4.000 kΩ, a multimeter typically beeps if the component has a
resistance of 200 Ω or less. 
 The lowest range setting should be used when testing circuit components that should
have low-resistance value such as electrical connections or switch contacts. 

Important Things to Remember during Continuity Test:

 Do not forget that with the lighting circuits the intermediate switch should be
switched to all available positions so that all the conductors could be tested for continuity. 
 Do not forget to link out the dimmer switch on the other lighting circuit, otherwise
you will get wrong test results. 
 Remember, that by doing these steps you will also confirm the correct polarity of the
conductors, so there is no need to do polarity dead tests again. 
 Remember to constantly inspect the installation for faults and signs of damages. 
Multimeters and ohmmeters are normally used for continuity tests. Specialized continuity
testers are also available which are more basic in nature, inexpensive and have a light bulb
 which glows in the case of current flow. The continuity test is performed on an electrical
circuit when it is not powered and with help of the testing device. 

Can an electronic circuit which is passing currents be tested by a multi-meter’s

continuity test? Would it be meaningful or harmful? Why? 
A continuity test is like a simplified resistance/ohms measurement. A basic method is to
apply a voltage across the resistor and measure the current OR apply a current and measure
the voltage. Then through R = V/I you can calculate the resistance. 
Imagine you applied 100 V DC but your meter can only handle 10 V when in the continuity
test mode. Such a test is completely meaningless, and potentially damaging to the meter. If
you want to test continuity or resistance, remove all sources of power, and discharge any
stored energy sources. 
The meter is sourcing a (usually low) test voltage. If you connect it to something that is
already powered, you are connecting the two sources together, and the meter isn’t designed to
handle external sources in continuity or resistance (or capacitance, or inductance, or any other
passive) mode. 
Risks of Introducing a Voltage Through the Multimeter Leads 

 There is a risk of certain parts being damaged, especially parts that cannot tolerate the
1 to 9 volts that a multimeter might deliver across the probes in continuity mode. 
 The above is especially true when the component (or other components on connected
traces, which will also be affected) is not powered. Many parts can tolerate voltages when
powered but not otherwise. 
 To minimize the voltage, an option is to use the multimeter in resistance mode, at the
lowest resistance setting – The higher resistance scales work on higher probe voltage, going
by a quick check on a couple of multimeters at my desk. 
 Note that basic multimeters often combine continuity and diode testing modes, so the
voltage is at minimum sufficient to forward bias silicon diodes and perhaps LEDs. This
means a voltage of 2 to 3 volts. 

Benefits of Continuity Testing

 Tests can be done 24/7.

 Fewer human resources are required.
 Reusability: The scripts are reusable. You don’t need new scripts all the time. 
 Reliability: It is more reliable and quicker way when running boring repetitive
standardized tests which cannot be skipped. 
 It not only checks for continuity but also for shorts.

Procedure for Continuity Test:

1. Turn the dial to Continuity Test mode ( ). It will likely share a spot on the dial with
one or more functions, usually resistance (Ω). With the test probes separated, the
multimeter’s display may show OL and Ω.
2. If required, press the continuity button.
3. First insert the black test lead into the COM jack.
 4. Then insert the red lead into the VΩ jack. When finished, remove the leads in reverse
order: red first, then black.
5. With the circuit de-energized, connect the test leads across the component being
tested. The position of the test leads is arbitrary. Note that the component may need to
be isolated from other components in the circuit.
6. The digital multimeter (DMM) beeps if a complete path (continuity) is detected. If the
circuit is open (the switch is in the OFF position), the DMM will not beep.
7. When finished, turn the multimeter OFF to preserve battery life.

Continuity Testing overview

 Continuity is the presence of a complete path for current flow. A circuit is complete
when its switch is closed.
 A digital multimeter’s Continuity Test mode can be used to test switches, fuses,
electrical connections, conductors and other components. A good fuse, for example,
should have continuity.
 A DMM emits an audible response (a beep) when it detects a complete path.
 The beep, an audible indicator, permits technicians to focus on testing procedures
without looking at the multimeter display.
 When testing for continuity, a multimeter beeps based on the resistance of the
component being tested. That resistance is determined by the range setting of the
multimeter. Examples:
o If the range is set to 400.0 Ω, a multimeter typically beeps if the component
has a resistance of 40 Ω or less.
o If the range is set 4.000 kΩ, a multimeter typically beeps if the component has
a resistance of 200 Ω or less.
 The lowest range setting should be used when testing circuit components that should
have low-resistance value such as electrical connections or switch contacts.

Methods of Testing a Circuit:

 1. Using Continuity Tester:

 Disconnect the power from the circuit you want to test. Continuity testers work by sending a
small current through the circuit, so the circuit needs to be disconnected from its power
supply. If you’re testing a simple school project circuit (two wires running between a 9v
battery and a light, for instance), just disconnect the wires from the battery.

 If you’re testing for continuity in home electrical wiring, turn off the appropriate
breaker at your main electrical service panel. Next, test a non-contact voltage tester on a
circuit you know is working (such as any meter you use daily). Then, use the non-contact
voltage tester to make sure the power is off at the circuit you’ll be testing.
 Separate the circuit you want to test from other potentially hot wires to ensure you
don't get a false positive. Then, simply place the tip of the voltage tester near the wiring of
the circuit you’ll be testing. If the voltage tester lights up and “chirps,” the power is still on.

Make sure your continuity tester works. A basic continuity tester, which you can buy at
any hardware store, consists of a small cylinder with a lamp at one end and a probe at the
other. A battery goes inside the cylinder to power the tester, and a flexible wire with a clip
extends out from the cylinder.

 To test that it’s working, simply touch the clip to the probe. If the lamp comes on, it’s
working. If it doesn’t, check the battery.
 Continuity testers are cheap and easy to use, but you can also find instructions online
for making your own with a few simple parts.
 Touch the probe and attach the clip to opposite ends of the circuit. 

For the basic “2 wires running from a 9v battery to a light” circuit setup, attach the clip to one
of the wires you disconnected from the battery, and touch the probe to the other detached
wire. It doesn’t matter which wires you clip or touch.

 If you’re trying to figure out which wire connects to which between a wall switch and
nearby wall outlet at home, take the cover plates off and unbundle or detach the wire ends—
but only after you’ve confirmed with a voltage tester that the power is off. Attach the tester’s
clip to a wire at one box, then start touching the probe to wires in the other box.
 Watch for the lamp to illuminate on your tester. 

If the lamp lights up, you have a completed circuit. If it doesn’t—and you’ve already made
sure the tester’s battery is working—then you don’t have a completed circuit.

Testing Continuity with a Multimeter:

1. Remove all current from the circuit you’re testing. Either disconnect your simple
circuit from its battery or shut off your home circuit’s power supply at the breaker box. For
home wiring in particular, always ensure that the power is actually off by using a non-contact
voltage tester.[5]
o Non-contact voltage testers look like thick pens and can be found at any
hardware store. They light up and make a chirping sound whenever the probe end is placed in
close proximity to an electrical current.
o When using a non-contact circuit tester, make sure to separate the wires you
want to test from all nearby wires. If the wires are too close, a hot wire's magnetic field can
affect the reading and show a false positive.
 Turn your multimeter’s dial to continuity mode. 

Multimeters vary by make and model, but nearly all of them have a dial on the receiver with
an array of settings. If your multimeter has a continuity setting, it will usually be denoted by
an image of a series of curved lines that look like a sound wave.

 Typically, the symbol will look something like this— ))))) —except that the curved
lines will go from smaller to larger from left to right.
 Read the manual that came with your meter before using it to ensure you know how to
use it correctly.
 Place the test leads into their appropriate jacks. 

Multimeters come with two wire leads—a black one and a red one—with plugs at one end
and probes at the other. Many multimeters have at least 3 jacks in which you can plug in the
leads, however, so you need to insert them properly in order to test for continuity.

 Plug the black test lead into the “COM” (or similar, for “common”) jack. This is
always where the black lead goes, no matter the test you’re conducting.
 Plug the red test lead into the jack labeled “VΩ,” “VΩmA,” or similar.This jack is
used for low current testing, which is appropriate for circuit continuity testing. Consult your
multimeter’s manual if you’re not sure which jack to use.

Touch the probe ends together to test the multimeter. 

The multimeter tests for continuity by sending out a small current, so you’ll make a complete
circuit by touching the red and black probe ends together. In most models, the multimeter
will beep to indicate continuity, and may also (if it has a digital display) provide a visual
indicator (such as the number 0) as well.

 If your multimeter doesn’t beep, and the digital display (if it has one) shows “OL”
(for “open loop”) or the number 1, then it is not working properly. Check its battery and
consult your user’s manual.
 Touch the probe ends to opposite ends of the circuit you’re testing. 

If you wanted to test a single strand of wire, you’d touch the probe ends to each end of the
wire. If you wanted to check a small light bulb with two attached wire leads, you’d touch a
probe to each of the leads. The multimeter works in this case by completing the circuit and
introducing a small current into it.[10]

 Remember that, in most cases, a beeping sound and possibly a displayed “0” indicate
continuity, and no beeping and possibly a “1” or “OL” indicate discontinuity.

Checking for Grounding with a Circuit Tester:

Rely on a circuit tester when checking older home wiring. You can use a circuit tester to
confirm any type of completed circuit, but its best use is perhaps to make sure that home
electrical wiring—especially in older homes—is properly grounded. You might, for instance,
find a green-coated or bare copper ground wire in an outlet box, but the only way to really be
sure that it is actually grounded is to test it.[11]

 If you don't have knowledge or experience working with electricity, this task is
best left to a certified electrician.
 You can buy circuit testers at any hardware store, and they look a bit like a continuity
tester—a small cylinder with a light at one end (neon in this case) and two attached wires
with probes (instead of one).
 Circuit testers are not-self powered, though, meaning that, unlike a continuity tester or
multimeter, the circuit you’re testing needs to be supplied with power.

Turn off the power supply, and confirm it’s off. 

If you’re checking the wiring in a wall outlet, turn off the power to that outlet at the main breaker
panel. Then, place a non-contact voltage tester into the narrow slot (where you plug in) in the outlet
face. If the tester doesn’t light up or chirp, the power is off. [12]

 Another way to confirm the power is off is to plug a device (that you know is working
properly) into the outlet.

Expose the wiring and turn the power back on.

 With the power confirmed off, take off the face cover and unbundle and separate the wires inside the
outlet box. Make sure the exposed ends are not touching. Then, turn the power back on to the outlet at
the breaker panel.[13]

 Live, exposed wires create a hazard for electrocution (if someone touches the wires) or
fire (if the wires touch each other or a nearby object). Before turning the power on, make sure the
exposed wire tips are completely separated and not touching anything; tell everyone in the area/home
that there are live wires in that specific location; and put up a sign (e.g. "Live Wires! Don't Touch!")
right near the outlet.
 Touch a hot wire and a neutral wire with the test probes. Touch the black probe to the
exposed hot (or live) wire—it’s usually black, but could be any color other than white or
green. Touch the red probe to a neutral exposed wire—which will be white. This completes
the circuit, and the neon lamp should light up.[14]

 You’re testing the tester by completing this circuit. If the neon lamp doesn’t light up,
either your tester is bad or the power isn’t actually back on to your outlet.

Touch a hot wire and the ground wire to check for grounding. As before, touch the black
probe to the exposed end of the black (or not white or green) hot wire. Then touch the red
probe to the ground wire, which should either be coated in green or be unsheathed copper. If
the tester lights up, you know that the outlet is properly grounded.[15]

 If the neon lamp doesn’t light up, the ground wire in this outlet box is not properly
connected to the home grounding system. Call an electrician if you are not well-versed in
making home electrical repairs.
 After a successful test, turn the power off at the breaker box; test the exposed wires
with the voltage tester to be sure the power is off; reconnect the wires as before and close up
the outlet box; and turn the power back on at the breaker box.