Yan

Thank you for purchasing the YANMAR Diesel Engine

This manual describes the various engine parts and prescribes simple checks for normal
engine maintenance.

Before starting up your new engine, we recommend that you throughly read this manual to
insure proper handling and use. If any sections are unclear or if you have any problems,
please consult your nearest dealer or sales outlet.

In view of our continuing efforts to improve quality and performance, engine parts may
sometimes be changed. This may result in some discrepancies in the contents of this manual.

This manual is concerned with the 2 cylinder model. Although the 1GM, 3GMD and 3HM
seem to be different on the outside, their handling is the same.

Caution
This safety alert symbol indicates important safety messages in this manual. When you see this symbol, be
alert to
the possibility of personal injury and carefully read the message that follows.

Important
This stop symbol indicates important proper operation messages in this manual. When
you see this symbol, carefully read the message that follows.
In order to deliver correct parts to you, we need accurate data on the engine you purchased.
The information needed is described in the illustrations below. For ready reference, please
record the information in the spaces provided under the illustrations.
I. Name of parts

1 Reduction and reversing gear

2 Output shaft coupling
3 Clutch control lever
4 Installation foot
5 Engine tube oil dipstick
6 Clutch tube oil dipstick/Supply port
7 Cooling water pump
8 Fuel feed pump
9 Exhaust manifold
10 Mixing elbow
11 Air intake silencer
12 Alternator
13 Lube oil filter
14 Starter motor
15 Decompression lever
16 Anticorrosion zinc
17 Fuel injection pump
18 Fuel injection valve
19 Crankshaft V-pulley
20 Speed control lever
21 Cooling water drain cock (Cylinder block/Exhaust manifold)
22 Fuel filter
23 Breather pipe
24 Fuel injection limiter
25 Engine lift plate
26 Lube oil supply port
27 Oil pressure sender
28 Engine stop device
III. Engine installation

[3-1.1 Inspection after unpacking

During unpacking be careful not to break the engine base. Check the following points:

1) Have any nuts or bolts become loose or fallen off?

2) Have any parts become rusty?
3) Is there any water inside the engine?
4) Has any part of the engine been broken, chipped, or crushed?
5) Are any of the accessory parts/ items broken or defective?

[3-2.1 Preparation of the engine foundation plate

The installation angle will differ with the vessel configuration and installation location of the
engine. The most suitable installation angle is 8 degrees and the maximum installation angle is
15 degrees. If it is greater than this, horsepower loss will increase and vessel speed will drop. In
addition, abnormal wear of parts will occur and engine performance will be adversely affected.

[3-3.1 Engine installation

1) For the engine installation, be sure to use the flexible rubber mount.
Yanmar prepared the flexible mounts which match the respective engine characteristics as a
standard accessory.

1. Lock Nut
2. Jack Nut
3. Rubber Mount
4. Indication No. (50, 70, 75, 100)
Note

Avoid splashing the flexible mount with water, oil etc.

Indication # Installation distance (unit: mm)

Engine model
Front Rear A B
1GM 70 50 209 370
2GM 100 75 275 370
3GMD 100 75 355 370
3HM 100 100 432 400

It is convenient for installation to make the GUIDE PLATE as illustrated.

2) Be sure the propeller shaft lines up with and matches both shaft joints. If necessary adjust the
height of the engine with a jack nut to line up the propeller shaft and the engine. Fit the propeller
shaft and the intermediate shaft if there is one-to the engine.
With a gap gauge, measure the gap of the connection at the top, bottom, right, and left. The
maximum tolerance should be less than 0.2mm. Lock nut should be as low as possible.

3) Tighten the installation bolts firmly and evenly. Do not force the bolts in if the propeller shaft
does not line up.

Important
After 50 hours operation, check that the propeller shaft lines up again, and re-
adjust if necessary.

View From Top

1 - Rear 2 - Front
 1. Gap gauges

[3-4.1 Propeller, propeller shaft

1) Select a propeller which is suitable for the size and shape of the vessel, as well as for its
intended usage. An extremely small or large propeller will reduce the speed of the vessel and
overload the engine, which may lead to engine break down. It is recommended that a
propeller be selected in consultation with a reputable dealer. However, the best way to make
sure the propeller fits the vessel is to conduct a test run after installation.

2) It is effective to use a proper flexible stern tube to reduce vibration.

[3-5.1 Cooling water supply device

1) The engine should be operated only after checking the cooling water piping is completed.

Important
If the Cooling water pump is operated without water, the rubber impeller
inside the pump will be broken.

2) Kingston cock installation. Install the canvas on the outside of the hull, and the
canvas or rubber packing on the inside of the hull; tighten the kingston cock. Installation
directions are given in the figure at the right. Install the kingston cock cover as shown.

3) Piping
For the cooling water pipe, use a rubber hose with an inside diameter of 13mm. Piping should
be kept as straight and short as possible. If the pipe is too long, it will be difficult to draw
water up.

4) Connect the rubber hoses to the kingston cock, cooling water pump inlet, and engine
cooling water outlet, and secure with hose clamps.
Piping Diagram

1. Inside Packing
2. Kingston cock cover
3. Outside Packing
4. Direction of vessel movement

5) Seawater strainer
The seawater pump will be damaged if foreign matter is allowed to get into it. Therefore,
attach a seawater strainer between the seawater pump inlet and the seawater cock when the
sea water cock is not already equipped with a strainer.

6) Exhaust pipe layout

Be sure to use the water-lock. Installation of piping should be done as shown in the following
diagram.

6-a)
In case the water outlet of the engine side (A) is above water line.

6-b)
In case the water outlet of the engine side (A) is below water line.

7) Air ventilation and Intake pipe

If the engine is operated at below normal output, incomplete combustion can occur as a result
of an overheated engine room. Therefore, the engine room should be adequately ventilated.

Important
During piping works be sure to cover the intake opening to prevent the entry
of foreign matter.
1. Seawater pump
2. Seawater strainer
3. Kingston cock

1. W.L.
2. Waterlock
3. Above seawater
line

1. W.L.
2. Waterlock
3. Vacuum valve
I3-6.] Remote control

1) Control cable Use only the single lever remote control device with 1GM 2GM, 3GM and
3HM engines.

Note
The dual lever remote control device cannot be used.

Recommended Control Cable Cable Clamp Connecting metal

Cable fittings
Speed Control Morse 33-C Yanmar Standard Yanmar Standard
Clutch Control Morse 33-C Yanmar Standard Yanmar Standard
Engine Stop (option) Yanmar made
Morse

2) Speed control

2-a) A spring is attached to the connector to absorb shock when operating the speed control
lever. Make the wiring so that the spring works when the throttle is "idling" as illustrated.

1. Spring
2. Speed Control Lever
3. Connector
4. Idle adjusting bolt
Note
1) Fix the wire to the cable clamp of the F.O. filter side.
2) Cable connector has M5 thread.

2-b)
After completing of wiring, check the following
points:

2-b)-1.
That the remote control lever and speed control lever
can be moved smoothly through the whole stroke.

2-b)-2
That the idle speed adjuster regulates the speed to
850-900 rpm, after all preparations for starting the
engine have been completed.
1. Cable clamp

3) Clutch Control

3-a)
Cone Clutch (for 1GM, 2GM, 3GMD)

3-a)-1.
Remove the spring joint from the operation lever.

3-a)-2.
With the spring joint disconnected from the operation lever,
move the operation lever forward and reverse, to make sure
that the strokes from the neutral position are the same.

3-a)-3.
Attach the spring joint to the operation lever 60mm from the shaft lever center.
The stroke from the neutral position moves through a distance of 24.4 to 35.Ohm. When the
spring joint is attached to the hole 52mm from the center of the shift lever, these strokes must
be 21.1-30.Ohm.

Note
The operation lever may not move smoothly when there is no lubrication oil in the clutch
case.
 1. Remote Control Cable
2. M5 Thread
3. Operation Lever
4. Shaft
5. Clutch Case side cover
6. Spring joint

3-a)-4
Move the remote control lever to the forward
position, and make sure that the M5 thread of the
spring joint reaches to the inside of the joint.
In this position, the output shaft (propeller shaft) of
the clutch should rotate clockwise as viewed from
the stern.

3-a)-5.
Move the remote control lever to the reverse position,
and make sure that the M5 thread of the spring joint
reaches the outside of the joint. In this position, the
output shaft (propeller shaft) of the clutch should rotate
counter-clockwise as viewed from the stern.

3-a)-6.
Adjust the M5 thread depth so that the value of A, and 16 are nearly the same.
3-a)-7.
Make sure that the angle made between the spring joint
and the clutch control lever forms 90 degrees.

3-b)
Kanzaki-Hurth clutch (for 3GMD and 3HM)
To connect the cable, the operating cable must
be positioned at right angles to the shift lever
when the shift lever is in the neutral position.
The shift play, measured at the pivot point of
the shift lever, must be at least 35mm to each
side (reverse and forward) from the neutral
position. A greater shift play has no adverse
effect on the marine gearbox. After connecting
the linkage, confirm that the remote control
and the shift lever on the marine gearbox work
properly. A typical linkage arrangement is
illustrated in the figure below.
1. Astern 4. Propeller side
2. Neutral 5. Engine Side
3. Ahead

Note
Since the cable stroke may be insufficient, two holes are
drilled in the shift lever.
When the cable is attached to the hole 60mm from the
center of the rotation of the shift lever, the strokes from
the center to the forward and reverse sides must be
35mm. When the cable is attached to the hole 52mm
from the rotation of the shift lever, these strokes must be
30mm.

4) Engine stop remote control Connect the engine stop

remote control cable as in the illustration, after
completing the wiring check that the engine stop lever
can be moved smoothly through the whole stroke.
 1. Clamp
2. Engine Stop lever
3. Engine stop remote control cable

[3-7.] Recommended battery capacity

Use sufficient capacity of battery.

1GM, 2GM, 3GMD - 12V - 70AH (Mini)

3HM - 12V - 100AH (Mini)

IV. After launching

1) Check for water or air intake around the gland part of the stern tube and the kingston cock
fitting.

2) Make sure that the engine installation bolts and shaft joints are firmly secured.

3) Release compression with the decompression lever and slowly run the engine with the
engine starting handle. Relative compression can be determined by comparing the weight (re-
sistance when turning) of the clutch handle when placed in the neutral, ahead, and astern
positions. When there is little weight difference among the three positions, decompression is
complete. If the clutch is heavier when engaged than when disengaged, this indicates that the
shaft is not in the correct position. If the engine is operated under this condition, a broken
propeller shaft may result. Check the alignment of the propeller shaft and the engine.
V. Fuel and lubricating oil
[5-1.] Selection and handling of fuel oil

1) Choice of fuel oil Fuel oils available in countries other than those listed above
which are to equipment specification may be used. Use the chart at below to
determine correct grade of fuel.

United States ASTM/D975 No.1-D or No.2-D diesel oil

United Kingdom BS2869 Class A 1 or Class A 2

Air temperature Diesel/fuel (ASTM/D975)

Below 5°C (40°F) 1-D
Above 5°C (40°F) 2-D

1-a)
As further insurance of satisfactory operation, use fuel having less than 0.5% sulphur.

1-b)
For maximum filter life, sediment and water should not exceed 0.1 %.

1-c)
To maintain proper fuel delivery during cold weather operation, use grade No.1-D diesel fuel
as defined in ASTM Designation D975 with a pour point at least 5.6°C (10°F) below the
lowest outside air temperature.

1-d)
The cetane number should be 40 minimum.
Low atmospheric temperature, as well as high altitude operation, may require use of a fuel
with a higher cetane number.

2) Storing fuel Proper fuel storage is vitally important. Keep all dirt, water and other con-
taminants out of fuel. Avoid storing fuel over long periods of time. Store fuel in a convenient
place away from buildings.

Important
Presence of water or dust in the fuel may cause failure of the engine and
early wear of the fuel injection equipment. Water and dust in the fuel
tank should be removed and clean fuel used.

3) After each day's operation.

Fill fuel tank at the end of each day's operation. This prevents condensation in fuel tank as moist
air cools.
[5-2.] Selection of lubricating oil

1) Choice of lube oil

The selection of lube oil is very important to a diesel engine. If an unsuitable oil is used, or oil
change is neglected, it may result in damage, and a shorter engine life.
When selecting the lube oil, it must be one of the following.

2) Kinds of lube oil

Choose a lube oil with a rating higher than SAE class CC.

3) Lube oil viscosity

The viscosity of the lube oil greatly influences engine starting and running performance. The lube
oil weight number chosen should vary with the season and temperature.

4) Recommended brands of lube oil for crankcase:

SAE NO. SAE NO. SAE NO.
SUPPLIER BRAND TEMP. TEMP. TEMP. TEMP.
Below 10C 10-20C 20-35C Over 35C
Shell Rotella 10W,20(W) 20(W) 30, 40 50
Talona 10W 20 30, 40 50
Rimula 20(W) 20(W) 30, 40 -
Caltex Marine 10W 20 30,40 50
Multi- 20(W), 20 30 50
purpose 10(W)
Mobile Delvac 10W 20 30 -
Special
Delvac 20W-40 20W-40 - -
20W-40
Delvac 1100 10W, 20(W) 20(W) 30, 40 50
Series
Delvac 1200 10W, 20(W) 20(W) 30, 40 50
Series
Esso Estor HD 10W 20 30, 40 50
Lube HD - 20 30, 40 50
Standard 10W 20 30, 40 50
BP Energol 20W 20W 40 50
V1. Starting the new engine for the first time
Important !
Before starting the engine for the first time check carefully the following
preparations.

[6-1.] Supply of fuel oil

1) Fill fuel into the fuel tank. When you feed fuel from storage tank, put the inlet of the syphon
at the middle of the storage tank. Take care not to draw unwanted materials floating on the fuel
surface or depositing in the bottom.

2) Draining the fuel tank. Be sure to equip the fuel tank with a precipitation tank, as shown in the
figure, and install a drain cock to remove any dirt and water that accumulate. Before starting the
engine. open the drain cock to remove any precipitation and dirt.

1. Precipitation Tank
2. Drain Cock

[6-2.] Supply of lubricating oil

1) Lube oil to the crankcase

1-a)
Remove the lube oil supply port (yellow cap) and supply approved lube oil.

FOR 1GM
1. Oil Supply Port
 FOR 2GM, 3GMD, 3HM
1. Oil Supply Port

1-b)
Check the amount of lobe oil by inserting the dipstick as far as possible. The oil level should
correspond to the upper mark on the dipstick.

Volume of the tube oil corresponding to the upper mark on the dipstick (with an installation
angle of 8°)

Engine crankcase
1GM 2GM 3GMD 3HM
1.3 L 2.0 L 2.7 L 5.5 L

Note.

When running the engine for the first time, the tube oil flows to the piping thus reducing the
amount of oil in the crankcase. After running the engine for several minutes, stop it for 2-3
minutes.
Recheck the oil level.

2) Lube oil to the reduction and reversing gear case

For the checking of the amount of tube oil to the reduction and reversing gear case, check
with screwing the dipstick.

Volume of tube oil corresponding to the upper mark on the dipstick (with an installation
angle of 8°)

Important!

The tube oil for reduction and reversing gear is different from engine tube
oil for 3GMD and 3HM. Supply correct tube oil.
1. Dipstick
2. Empty
3. Full

1. Oil Supply Port

1. Oil Gauge Rod

2. Lower Limit
3. Upper Limit
[6-3.] Air bleeding in the fuel system

See section [9.1] Fuel oil system - 2) Air bleeding in the fuel system.

[6-4.] External Inspection

1) Thoroughly check for loose nuts and bolts.

2) Check the area around the revolving parts and the upper part of the engine where jigs and
other tools may have been placed and forgotten. In general, be sure the engine room is always
kept shipshape.

[6-5.] Remote control device check

1) Pull out the engine warm up knob, change the control

lever from the "speed decrease" position to the "speed
increase" position. Check the slippage of the position on the
bridge and in the engine room, and adjust as necessary.

Note
The knob for engine warm up can only be operated when the
control lever is placed in the "Neutral" position.

2) Push the engine warm up knob back in, move the control
lever through "Ahead", "Neutral", and "Astern", check the
position of slip page in the engine room, and make
adjustments as necessary.
See [9.7] Remote control cable adjustment section for
the adjustment procedure.
1. Control lever
2. Engine warm-up knob
[6-6.] Check of instrument panel alarm system

Turn on the battery switch. Then place the key in the "ON" position and check the condition
of the lamps on the panel (with the engine stopped).

1) Lube oil warning lamp. Should be lit.

A-TYPE B-TYPE
1. C.W. Temp
2. Charge
3. L.O. Press
4. Push Button
5. Warning buzzer
6. Key switch

2) Cooling water temperature warning lamp. Should be out. (for small type panel; A-type
only) For the large type panel (B-type), raise the CHECK switch "ON" to see if the cooling
water temperature warning lamp lights.

3) Charging warning lamp. Should be lit.

4) The warning buzzer. Should sound.

Note
All the above alarm signs will continue until pushing the starting button or turning the key
off.
 1, Astern
2. Neutral
3. Ahead
4. Control Handle

[6-7.] Tuning

To allow the lube oil to reach all parts, turn in the

following sequence.

1) Place the control lever in "NEUTRAL".

2) Raise the decompression lever and leave it in the "no

compression" position.

3) Open the kingston cock.

4) Turn on the battery switch, insert the key into the

switch, and turn it to "ON".
FOR 1GM

5) Push the starter button and simultaneously pull the

"STOP" wire; turn the engine over 5-10 times and
make sure there are no abnormal sounds.

FOR 2GM/3GMD/3HM

Important

When turning by hand, turn to the left (counter clockwise) when viewed
from the front. If turned in the wrong direction, the impeller of the
cooling water pump may be damaged.
1. Push Button

DIRECTION OF ROTATION
V II. Method of operation
Caution

Before starting the engine

reconfirm that there are no
tools, etc. left in the engine
area, especially areas where
there are revolving parts.

3. Full Speed 1. Neutral 2. Slow Speed

(7-1.) Starting

1) Electric starting

1. Warm up knob

1-a)
Pull out the engine warm up knob and place the control
lever in the "FULL SPEED" position.

1-b)
Place the decompression handle down to the
"COMPRESSION" position.

Within 15 seconds
1-c)
Place the starter key in the "ON" position.

1-d)
Press the starter button to start the engine.

For IGM
Important

(1) RELEASE the push button

when engine starts.
If the push button is released
before engine starts, wait until starter motor and
engine stop running before trying again.

(2) Do not operate starter motor more than 15

seconds at a time. If engine does not start, wait at
least one minute before trying again.

For 2GM/3GM/3HM

Note
In cold weather.
When starting is difficult in cold weather,
raise the decompression handle to the "no
compression" position and turn the starter
motor over. After the engine gains
momentum, return the decompression
lever to the "compression" position. The
amount of electricity needed will be less,
and engine starting will be facilitated.

2) Emergency start
1GM, 2GM, 3GMD model can be started
in an emergency by manual starting.

2-a)
Pull out the engine warm up knob and place the control lever in the "FULL SPEED" position.
And also place the starter key in the "ON" position in order to charge the battery after engine
starts.
2-b)
Raise the decompression handle to the "NO
COMPRESSION" position.

2-c)
Attach the starter handle with priming shaft as
the angle shown in the figure and turn the
starting handle hard, 5-6 times, and if the
flywheel gains momentum...

2-d)
Pull the decompression lever down to the
compression position. Turn two or three times
without stopping, and the engine will start.

2-e)
After starting return control lever from "FULL SPEED" to "SLOW SPEED"

[7-2.] Cautions after starting the engine.

1) Warm up the engine for more than 5 minutes. Because lube oil does not reach all the
moving parts as soon as the engine is started.
Operate the engine at around 850-900 rpm for at least five minutes.
 Important

1) When running the engine for the first time after launching, run it for
15-20 minutes at about 1000 rpm.

2) Be sure to break-in the new engine. When the engine is new engine
parts are tight. Therefore, engine life can be seriously shortened if too heavy load is placed on
the engine before it is break-in Keep the following in mind during the break-in period.

Do not run the engine hard for the first 5 hours after installation.
Be sure to operate below 3000 rpm.

With the control lever in "NEUTRAL" check the following. Be sure that water is coming out
of the cooling water outlet pipe after the engine starts up.

2) Check the instrument panel warning lamp.

Normal condition Abnormal condition

Key switch ON (with the Engine start (over 1000 rpm)

engine stopped)

Lube oil lamp ON OFF ON (Pressure down)

Cooling water lamp OFF OFF ON (Temp. rise)
Charge lamp ON OFF ON (No-charge)
Warning buzzer BUZZ OFF BUZZ (Above trouble Except no-charge

If any of the warning lamps do not go off above 1000 rpms, they are malfunctioning. Stop the
engine immediately and contact the nearest Yanmar dealer.

[7-3.] Cautions during operation.

The following should be checked once or twice a day.

1) Fuel
Check and refill the fuel oil if needed. If air is allowed to enter the fuel injection device, it
will cause the engine to stop, and also necessitate the bleeding of the fuel lines.

2) Lube oil
If the warning lamp is on while the engine is running, it is an indication that there is some
abnormality.
First of all, check the amount.

3) Cooling water
Make sure the cooling water is flowing from the outlet pipe and that the cooling temperature
lamp is out. In the event water comes out intermittently, or when the amount is small, check
the following.
3-a)
If air is being taken into the cooling water system.

3-b)
Damage of the cooling water pump.

3-c)
If dirt has plugged up the cooling water pipe or the kingston cock.

4) Charge
Make sure that the charge lamp is off. If the charge
lamp does not go off, even when the engine rpms
are raised to more than 850 charging is not taking
place because of some malfunction in the charge
system.
Consult a dealer.

5) Temperature of parts
Under full power, the surface temperature of each
engine part will be about 50-60°C, or slightly hot if
touched with the hand. If the temperature is too
high, there is some abnormality. These may include
a shortage of oil or improper alignment of the
propeller shaft. Consult your nearest dealer if the
temperature of the engine parts is too high.

6) Exhaust smoke
The emission of black exhaust smoke indicates that
the engine is being overworked. If so operated, the
life of the intake and exhaust valves, piston rings,
cylinder liners, and fuel injection valve will be
shortened.

1. C.W. Temp
2. Charge
3. L.O. Press

7) Water/oil leaks
Check for any water or oil leaks, gas leakage, loose bolts, abnormal sounds, excessive
generation of heat, and vibration. If there is anything wrong, consult your nearest Yanmar
dealer.

8) Engine resonance
A sudden, large vibration of the vessel may be caused when the vibrations (resonance) of the
engine and the vibrations of the hull occur at the same time.
When this happens you should either increase or decrease engine speed.

9) Clutch operation
Clutch operation must be performed at a low speed of less than 900 rpm.
 Important
Clutch life will be significantly shortened if engaged suddenly at high speeds,
or if used in a partially engaged condition.

10) Abnormal sounds during operation

If abnormal sounds are detected, or the warning buzzer sounds during operation, you should
promptly stop the engine and consult the nearest dealer.

[7-4.] Stopping

1) Stopping procedure

1a) Place the clutch handle in the "neutral" position and

idle the engine for about 5 minutes.

Important
If the engine is stopped suddenly
while at a high temperature, the tem-
perature of various parts will increase.
This may result in engine trouble.

1-b)
After five minutes' idling, place the speed control lever
in the "full" position and raise the rpms to about 3600 to
blow out any burnt gas in the cylinder.

1-c)
Set the engine to the lowest speed (about 850-900 rpm), cut the fuel, and stop the engine.

1. Engine stops if knob is pulled

2. Engine stop cable
 Important

Do not stop the engine with the decompression lever. If the decompression
lever used to stop the engine, fuel will spray out and accumulate on top of
the pistons. This will create the danger of an explosion the next time the
engine is started.

2) Be sure to close the kingston cock after stopping.

3) Drain out the cooling water. In winter and in periods of col

d weather when there is the possibility that the cooling water may freeze, the cooling water
should be drained out after use.

3-a)
Open up the cylinder body side cock located below the intake silencer and drain out the water
in the cylinder.

3-b)
Open up the cock in the lower part of the exhaust manifold and drain the water from the
manifold. (for 3GMD, 3HM)

3-c)
Turn the crankshaft 2-3 times by starter motor to remove any water remaining in the cooling
pump.
4) While the engine is still warm, wipe off any dirt and grime that has accumulated.

5) Turn off the battery switch.

Note
When stopping the engine with the starter switch "ON", the tube oil pressure warning buzzer
will sound. This does not indicate engine trouble.
V III. Storage

[8-1.] Storing

Whenever the engine will not be used for several months, use the following procedure to
properly store it.
This minimizes corrosion and deterioration.

1) Drain fuel completely from fuel tank, otherwise moisture from the fuel system will mix
with the fuel.

2) Wash the cooling system with clean tap water and drain out the cooling water from the
engine completely.

2-a)
Cylinder body

2-b) Exhaust manifold.

2-c)
Cooling water pump Remove the cover of the
cooling water pump and drain out the water inside of
the cooling water pump.

3) Apply an anti-rust oil to any parts which rust

easily.

4) Since the battery will automatically discharge

itself if left, disconnect when fully charged, wash the
exterior and store in a dry, well-aired place.
Re-charge once a month during storage.
1. Cooling water pump

5) Tape to seal air inlet, exhaust pipe, and fuel tank cap.

6) Clean the engine throughly. Touch up any painted surfaces that are scratched or chipped.

7) If boat must be stored outside, cover it with waterproof material.

[82.] Removing engine from storage

1) Wipe off anti-rust oil and check that the remote control system move smoothly.

2) Wiring the battery.

2-a) Rewire as shown in the wiring diagram.

2-b) Make sure wires are connected to the correct terminals.

 Important

If wires are wrongly connected the A.C. generator may break.

2-c) Terminals must be covered and protected.

3) Unseal all openings sealed in step 1-5).

4) Also, observe points in section IV. Starting the new engine for the first time. For an ever
better service, ask advice from a Yanmar dealer.
[9-1.] Fuel oil system

1) Fuel tank and fuel supply.

1-a) Fill the tank up.

1-b)
Drain the fuel tank every 250 hours of operation.
Open the fuel tank drain cock to drain out any foreign
matter which may have accumulated in the bottom of the
tank.
When you start the new engine for the first time or after
long storage drain after 50 hours of operation.

1. Precipitation tank
2. Drain cock

1-c)
If the vent in the fuel tank cap is obstructed, fuel will not flow. Clean the fuel tank cap and
blow dry periodically.

2) Air bleeding in the fuel system

If air enters any part of the system, with the exception of the fuel tank, fuel will not be
injected into the cylinders. Check the fuel injection "sound" in the following manner.

2-a)
Pull out the engine warm up knob and place the control lever in the "half speed" position.

2-b)
Open the delivery cock of the fuel tank.

2-c)
Loosen the fuel strainer air-bleed bolt.

2-d)
Move the priming lever of the fuel feed pump up and
down. All the air has been bled out of the fuel line when
only fuel flows out. After bleeding retighten the bolt.

1. Fuel Filter
2. Fuel feed pump
3. Priming lever
2-e)
Loosen the high pressure pipe from the fuel pump. Turn the engine with the
starter motor, and at the same time tighten the cap nut of the high pressure pipe
if fuel comes out. Perform the same operation for each cylinder.

2-f)
After bleeding air from all of the cylinders,
turn the engine by the starter motor and make
sure that the injection sound of the fuel is a
strong high pitched "hiss". Be sure each
cylinder emits this hissing sound.

3) Fuel injection timing and spray

condition

Caution

Diesel fuel escaping under

pressure can have
sufficient force to penetrate
the skin, causing serious
personal injury. Before
disconnecting lines, be sure
to relieve all pressure in the
system, be sure no
connections are damaged.
Fluid escaping from a very
small hole can be almost invisible. Use a piece of cardboard or wood,
rather than hands, to search for suspected leaks. If injured by escaping
fluid, see a doctor at once. There can be serious infection or injury if
proper medical treatment is not administered immediately.

Important

Modification or alteration of the injection pump, the injection pump

timing, or the fuel injection valves in ways not recommended by the
manufacturer will terminate the warranty obligation to the purchaser.
Check the fuel injection equipment in the following procedure.

3-a)
Remove the starter motor to check the fuel injection timing mark.

Note
"IT" shows No. 1 cylinder which is the cylinder on the flywheel side and not the timing gear
case side.

3-b)
Remove the high pressure pipe from the fuel injection pump.

3-c)
Pull the engine warm up knob out and place the control lever in the "half speed" position.

3-d)
Rotate the engine to check the fuel injection timing. At the same time the arrow timing mark
on the cylinder block and flywheel should line-up, and fuel should bubble out of the delivery
valve of the fuel injection pump.

High Pressure Pipe

Note

Cranking for 3HM model, attach two M8 bolts at the crankshaft pulley as the figure below.

3-e)
Check the fuel injection timing for all of the cylinders.

Proper injection timing

Degree (BTDC) 1GM 2GM 3GMD 3HM

15±1 18±1 21±1
 For 1GM/2GM/3GMD
Injection timing mark on flywheel (1T, 2T. 3T)
1. Cylinder block side timing mark
2. Flywheel

3. Crankshaft pulley
4. M8 bolt

3-f)
Remove the fuel injection nozzle and check the injection spray condition. Cone-shaped
condition is proper.

If the spray is not cone-shaped, check the

following point.

3-f)-1.
The injection pressure may be low;
3-f)-2. The fuel may be bad;

Important

For the disassembly, adjustment and inspection of the fuel injection pump
and fuel injection valve, consult the nearest Yanmar dealer.

Note
It is convenient to check simultaneously the
exhaust/intake value clearance when removing the
starter motor.

4) Washing and replacement of the fuel filter element.

Remove the lower cover of the fuel filter and wash or

replace the element.

1. Fuel Filter

The proper method to remove the element is shown in the figure

below. When you start the new engine for the first time or after long
storage, clean the filter element after 50 hours of operation. After
that replace the element every 250 hours of operation.

2. Air breathing bolt

3. Filter element
4. Filter bowl
5. Tightening screws
[9-2.] Lubricating oil system

1) Engine lube oil

1. Engine oil evacuation port

1-a)
Check the oil level before every operation.

1-b)
Replace the oil after 50 hours of operation (for the
first time, after long storage) and every 100 hours of
operation.
Lube oil changes can be performed most effectively
while the engine is still warm. The oil will flow easily
and can be thoroughly drained.
The oil should be drained from the crankcase by
moving the handle of the oil evacuation pump forward
and backward.

2. Oil Evacuation pump (optional)

1-c) Replace the lube oil filter Replace the lube oil filter every 300 hours of operation.

1-c)-1. Unscrew canister by hand or filter replacer tool.

1-c)-2. Check that threaded adaptor is secure in headcasting.

1-c)-3. Discard used canister.

1-c)-4. Coat the top of the seal of the new canister with new
lube oil.

1-c)-5. Screw new canister on to filter headcasting until

canister seal just touches headcasting and then tighten by hand
a further half turn.

1. Used Cannister
 Important

If the canister is overtightened,

difficulty may be experienced in
its removal and the filter may be
damaged.

2. New Lub. Oil

1-c)-6. Start engine and check for leaks. Check oil level after
running the engine for several minutes and fill up when
necessary.

2) Reduction/reversing gear case oil.

2-a) Check the oil level before every operation.

3. New Cannister

2-b) Replace the oil. Replace the oil periodically same

procedure as engine lube oil.

Important
Reduction/reversing gear case oil for 3GMD and 3HM
is different from engine lube oil.

[9-3.] Cooling water system

1) Make sure that water is coming out of the cooling water

outlet pipe during operation.

2) Inspection and replacement of anticorrosion zinc.

Replace the anticorrosion zinc after every 500 hours of use
to prevent electrolytic corrosion by the cooling water.
Although it depends on the quality of the raw water and the
operating conditions, remove the scum(dross) adhering to
the surface of the anticorrosion zinc.
If less than 1/2 of the anticorrosion zinc is left, it should be
replaced with a new one.
Location of anticorrosion zinc Number of Pieces
1GM 2GM 3GMD 3HM
Cylinder Head – 1 1 1
Cylinder Body 1 1 2 2

3) Inspection and replacement of cooling water pump.

3-a) Impeller of the cooling water pump.

3-a)-1.
Remove the cooling water pump cover, take out the
impeller, and check for damage to the impeller and
mechanical seal parts. If damaged, replace with a new
one.
1. Cover
2. Packing
3. Impeller
4. Cooling Water Pump

3-a)-2.
When reassembling the pump, coat the fittings of the pump shaft and impeller, both sides of
the impeller, and the vane tips with grease.
 Important
When installing the impeller, make sure the direction of the impeller cor-
responds to that indicated in the figure.

3-b)
Adjust the V-belt tension. Check the tension of the
cooling water pump drive belt. If there is too much
tension premature damage to the V-belt will occur. On
the other hand of the V-belt pulley is loose it will slip
and cooling water flow will be insufficient. Loosen the
cooling water pump V-belt tension bolt to adjust the
tension.
Replace the belt if it is worn or cracked.

Adjustment Standard – 5 - 7 mm (with 10 kg

thumb force)
[9-4.] Inspection of engine body

1) Retightening cylinder head nuts Retighten each nut with a torque wrench before starting a
new engine and after 50 hours of operation. Sequence for tightening the nuts is shown in the
figure.

1. For 1GM M10 bolts are used for main

2. Sub
3. Number shows tightening order

CYLINDER HEAD TIGHTENING TORQUE

1GM MAIN (M10) 7.5 kg-m
2GM, 3GMD MAIN (M12) 10 kg-m
SUB (M8) 2.5 kg-m
3HM MAIN (M12) 13 kg-m
SUB (M8) 3 kg-m

2) Exhaust/intake valve head clearance adjustment

The clearance of the valve will affect the overall performance
of the engine, so it is important that it be correctly adjusted.
Check the clearance before starting a new engine, whenever
assembling or disassembling and after 500 hours of
operation. Adjustment shall be done while the engine is cold.

2-a)
Remove the valve rocker arm cover and starter motor.
2-b) Crank the engine and set the No. 1 (flywheel side) piston to top dead center (TDC) on
the compression stroke.

Note
Set the position at which the valve rocker arm shaft
does not move even when the crankshaft is turned to
the left and right, centered around the T mark. C.

Maintenance standard (for all models)

Intake/exhaust valves 0.20mm

1. Valve clearance adjusting screw

2. Thickness gauge

2-c)
Check and adjust the intake and exhaust valve head clearances of the No. 1 cylinder.
Loosen the valve clearance adjusting screw lock nut, adjust the clearance to the maintenance
standard with a thickness gauge, and retighten the lock nut. In the case of 2 cylinder model,
adjust the valve head clearance of the No. 2 cylinder in the same manner after turning the
crankshaft 180°.

Note
If you adust the valve head clearance of the No. 2 cylinder first, turn the crankshaft 540°.
Adjust the clearance of the No. 1 cylinder in the same manner.

In the case of 3 cylinder model, adjust the valve head clearance of the No. 3 cylinder in the same
manner after turn the crankshaft 240° and then adjust it of the No. 2 cylinder after turn the
crankshaft 240° more.

[9-5.] Washing the air intake silencer element

Wash the element inside the air intake silencer with a

neutral detergent every 250 hours of operation.
[9-6.] Electrical equipment

1) Checking of the warning lamps on the instrument panel. Check the "ON" and "OFF"
function of the warning lamps before every operation.

2) Checking and maintenance of the battery.

Proper battery maintenance is vital for dependable service.

2-a)
Keep battery clean by wiping it with a damp cloth.
Keep all connections clean and tight. Remove any corrosion, and wash terminals with a
solution of baking soda and water.

2-b)
Keep battery fully charged, especially during cold weather. If a battery charger is needed,
charge it after disconnecting battery cables from battery.

2-c)
Check level of electrolyte in each cell at least every 200 hours. If low, fill to bottom of filler
neck with distilled water.

2-d)
To check battery condition, use a battery hydrometer. Check specific gravity of electrolyte in
each cell. Charge battery if reading is below 1.215.

Caution
Keep all sparks and flames away from batteries, to avoid sparks, connect
earth cable last and disconnect it first.

Important
Do not add distilled water in freezing weather unless engine is run at least 30
minutes to ensure thorough mixing.

3) Checking and adjustment of the alternator (electric

generator) V-belt tension.
If the tension for the V-belt is too tight the V-belt may
be easily damaged. On the other hand, if the tension is
too loose, slippage results and makes it hard to generate
electricity.

3-a)
Checking the tension.
With the engine stopped, press belt midway between
pulleys and measure the "give".
Belt should give 10 mm with about 10 kg force.
3-b)
If the belt needs adjustment, loosen adjusting bolt.
Pry away from charging generator (alternator).
While holding alternator in position, tighten adjusting
bolt. A well worn or cracked belt should be replaced.

Important
Make sure there is no oil on the belt. If the belt is oily
it will slip. Immediately wipe off any oil that spills or
splashes on the belt.

1. Adjusting bolt
2. Hammer

[9-7.] Remote control cable adjustment

1) Speed control

1-a) Checking the control cable fitting. Check that the control cable is fixed at the clamp. Do
not loosen nor tighten cable too much.

Adjustment of idling engine speed

The idling sped is generally set at 850-900 rpm. In case the idling speed is too low, adjust the
following way;
Loosen the lock nut and turn the diling adjustor bolt clockwise, the engine speed will
increase.
On the other hand, in case the idling speed is too high,
turn the adjustor bolt counterclockwise and lower engine
speed.

After a suitable engine speed has been obtained, tighten

the idling adjustor bolt with the lock nut.
After resetting the idling engine speed, be sure to adjust
the speed control cable so that the speed control lever
touches the idling adjustor bolt, when the remote control
lever is in the neutral position.

1. Speed Control bolt

2. Speed Control lever
3. Idling Speed adjusting bolt
2) Clutch control

2-a)
Checking the operation lever stroke. Move the
operation lever up and down (Ahead and Astern) by
disconnecting the remote control cable. Check that
the strokes between Neutral to Forward (A) and
Neutral to Reverse (B) are nearly same.
If the strokes are not the same, see your nearest
Yanmer dealer.

1. Astern
2. Ahead

2-b)
Checking the spring joint condition.
With connecting the spring joint to the control cable, check the function of the spring of the
spring joint.
If the M5 thread does not move even when you shift the control handle, the cone inside of the
clutch might be damaged. See your Yanmar dealer.
2-c)
Tighten all nuts and bolts After inspection and maintenance, retighten all nuts and bolts
securely.

Caution
1) Always stop the engine when inspect and maintain the control cable.

2) Be carefully when conduct inspection and maintenance imi.-;ediately

after stopping the engine. Lube oil might be high temperature in several
reason.