Women’s Basic Fitted Bodice Block

Measurements:
Round Bust = 88cm
Shoulder = 12.25 cm
Nape to waist = 40 cm
Back width = 34.4 cm
Waist to hip = 20.6 cm
Dart = 7 cm
Armscye depth = 21 cm
Chest = 32.4 cm
Neck size = 37 cm
• Square down from 0; square halfway across the block.
• 0–1 1.5 cm.
• 1–2 armscye depth measurement plus 0.5 cm; square across. (21.5cm)
• 2–3 half bust plus 5 cm. Square up and down; mark the centre front line.
(49cm)
• 3–4 = 0–2
• 1–5 nape to waist measurement; square across to 6. (40cm)
• 5–7 waist to hip measurement; square across to the centre front line to mark
point 8.(20.6cm)
• 0–9 one fifth neck size minus 0.2 cm; draw in back neck curve 1–9. (7.2cm)
• 1–10 one fifth armscye depth measurement minus 0.7 cm; square halfway
across the block. (3.5cm)
• 9–11 shoulder length measurement plus 1 cm; draw back shoulder line to
touch the line from 10. (13.25cm)
• 12 centre of shoulder line. 12–13 draw a dotted line 5 cm long and sloping
inwards 1cm. Construct dart 1 cm wide with this line as centre (make both
sides of dart the same length).
• 2–14 half back width measurement plus 0.5cm ease; square up to 15.
(17.7cm)
• 14–16 half the measurement 14–15.
• 17 midway between 2 and 14; square down with a dotted line to point 18 on
waistline,and point 19 on the hipline.
• 4–20 one fifth neck size minus 0.7 cm.(6.7cm)
• 4–21 one fifth neck size minus 0.2 cm; draw in front neck curve 20–21.
(7.2cm)
• 3–22 half chest measurement plus half width
of dart; square up. (19.7cm)
• 3–23 half the measurement 3–22; square down with a dotted line to point 24
on waistline and 25 on hipline.
• 26 is the bust point 2.5 cm down from 23; draw a line joining 20–26.
• 20–27 dart width measurement; draw a line joining 26–27. (7cm)
• 11–28 1.5 cm; square out approx. 10 cm to 29.
• 27–30 draw a line from 27, shoulder length measurement, to touch the line
from 28–29.(12.25cm)
• 22–31 one third the measurement 3–21.
• 32 is midway between 14 and 22; square down with a dotted line to point 33
on the
• Draw armscye as shown on diagram, touching:
• Points 11, 16, 32 to form the back armhole.
• Points 30, 31, 32 to form the front armhole.
 TAILORED SKIRT BLOCK
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED TO DRAFT THE TAILORED SKIRT
BLOCK
Size: 10
• Waist= 66cm
• Hips= 90cm
• Waist to hip= 20.3cm
• Skirt length= 58cm
STEPS REQUIRED TO DRAFT THE TAILORED SKIRT
BLOCK
Square down and across from 1.
• 1–2 half the hip measurement plus 1.5cm, square down; this line is the
centre front line. (46.5cm)
• 1–3 skirt length, square across to 4 on the centre front line. (58cm)
• 1–5 waist to hip measurement, square across to 6 on the centre front line.
(20.3cm)

BACK
5–7 quarter the hip measurement plus 1.5 cm ease, square
down to 8 on the hemline. (24cm)
• 1–9 quarter waist measurement plus 4.25cm.(20.75cm)
• 9–10 1.25cm; join 10 to points 1 and 7 with dotted lines.
• Divide the line 1–10 into three parts, mark points 11and 12.
• Using the line 1–10, square down from points 11 and 12 with dotted lines.
• 11–13 14cm.
• 12–14 12.5cm.
• Construct two darts on these lines, each 2cm wide.
• Draw in the waistline with a slight curve; draw in the side seam curving it
outwards 0.5cm.
FRONT
• 2–15 quarter the waist measurement plus 2.25cm. (18.75cm)
• 15–16 1.25cm, join 16 to points 2 and 7 with dotted lines.
• 16–17 is one third the distance 2–16; using the line 2–16, square down from
17 with a dotted line.
• 17–18 10cm.
• Construct a dart on this line 2cm wide.
• Draw in the waistline with a slight curve, draw in the
• side seam curving outwards 0.5cm.
• 1-2=46.5 cm
• 1-3= 58 cm
• 1-5=20.3 cm
• 5-7=24 cm
• 1-9=20.75cm
• 9-10=1.25cm
• Join 10 to point 1 and 7
• Divide 1-10 into 3 parts, mark pt 11 and 12
• 11-13=14cm
• 12-14=12.5cm
• Construct darts 2cm wide.
• Draw waist line with slight curve.
• Draw side seam outward 0.5 cm
• 2-15=18.75cm
• 15-16=1.25cm
• Join 16 to point 2 and 7
• 16-17= one third of 2-16
• 17-18=10cm
• Construct darts 2cm wide.
• Draw waist line with slight curve.
• Draw side seam outward 0.5 cm
FLAT PETER PAN
Step 1:Place shoulder of back bodice to shoulder of front bodice, neck points
touching.
Step 2:Outer shoulders overlapping:
For female- By 2 Cm
For Kids- By 1 cm
Step 3:Draw the collar line on your blocks as
shown; Mark 1.5’’ ( 3” for female) -inches down the
Centre Back (point A), on the shoulder line (point
B) and down the Centre Front (point C), and joined
these three points with a curve.
From A go inside 1cm and re-make CB shape.
Step 4: Draw the neckline curve from point D at
the back, to point E at the front, touching at the
shoulder point.
 GENTS SHIRT COLLAR
Measurements
• Neck measurement: 35 cm
• Button stand: 1 cm
• Collar depth:3 cm
• Stand depth: 4 cm
Steps for development of Gents Shirt collar • 1-2- ½ neck measurement
(17.5cm)
• 2-3 button stand plus 1.25 cm (2.25cm)
• 1-4=3/4 measurement 1-2 (13cm)
• Square up from 1, 2, 3
• 1-5 collar and stand depth plus 2cm, square across. (9cm)
• 1-6= ½ depth 1-5, square across to 7 and 8. (4.5cm)
• 8-9 is 1cm, join 3-9, 3-10 and 9-11 are 0.75 cm.
• 1-12 is 0.5 cm
• 13 is midway between 6 and 7
• 7-14 and 11-15 are 1 cm.
• Join 13-15 with curve, Join 14-16 at collar point
• Separate collar and stand.
• Seam allowance is required on lines 6-14 and 6-15.
 FLAT SAILOR COLLAR
Step 1: Place shoulder of back bodice to shoulder of front bodice, neck points
touching.
Step 2: Overlap the shoulders by amount given as:
For female- By 2 Cm
For Kids- By 1 cm
Same as peter pan collar
Step 3: Draw in ‘V’ neckline.
Step 4: Draw in collar as shown.
Step 5: The collar is 1cm wider
than the shoulder line.
Trace off collar pattern.
The collar can be cut in one piece or have a join at the shoulder.
 Kids Simple roll collar/shawl collar
• Trace round front bodice.
• Mark buttonholes, add button stand at 1 cm.
• Mark point 1 at break point. (10cm down from neck point)
• Mark point 2 at neckline; square up from 2.
• 2–3 back neck measurement.
• 3–4 2.5 cm
• 2–4 the measurement 2–3.
• Join 2–4 with a slight curve.
• Square out from the line 2–4.
• 4–5 6–9cm approx.
• 5–6 1cm.
• Draw in style line of collar as shown.
• Draw in facing line.
 CHILD BODICE BLOCK
Measurements required to draft the blocks
(example: 110cm height, girls -approx. age 5 years) taken from the size chart.
Refer to the size charts for girls' standard measurements (6cm height
intervals).
Chest 59cm
Across back 24.4cm
Neck size 27.8cm
Shoulder 8.2cm
Scye depth 14.4cm
back neck to waist 26.6cm
Body sections
0-1 neck to waist plus 1.25cm; square across. (26.6cm+1.25cm= 27.8 cm)
0-2= 12 chest + 4.5 cm
square down to 3.
e.g.110cm height: (59 +2) + 4.5cm= 34cm.
0-4 1.25cm.
4-5 scye depth plus 1cm; square across to 6. (15.4cm)
4-7 1/2 measurement 4-5; square out.
4-8 1/4 scye depth minus 2cm; square out. (1.85cm)
0-9 1/5 neck size plus 0.2cm; draw in ncck curve. (5.7cm)
5-10 1/2 across the back plus 0.5cm; square up; (12.7cm)
Mark point 11 on the line from 7.
9-12 shoulder measurement; plus 0.3cm (8.5cm)
Draw back shoulder line to touch the line from 8. (8.3cm)
2-13 1/5 neck size. (5.5cm)
2-14 1/5 neck size; draw in neck curve. (5.5cm)
12-15 = 0.5 cm, Square Across
13-16 shoulder measurement; draw in front shoulder line to touch the line
(8.2cm) from 15.
6-17 the measurement 5-10 minus 0.7cm: square up. (12cm)
17-18 4 measurement 4-5.(7.7cm)
17-19 /2 measurement 10-17 plus 0.5cm; square down to 20.
10-21= 2cm
17-22-1.8cm
Draw in the armscye shape as shown in diagram to touch points 12.
121, 19, 22, 18, 16.
3-23=1cm
Join 1-23 with curve
Body Measurements:
Sleeve Length : 5 in. Chest: 22 in.
 Child Sleeve Block
Body Measurements:
• Sleeve Length : 5 in.
• Chest : 22 inch.
• Draw a line segment AD of 5" (Sleeve Length).
• Draw a line segment AB of 5" (1/4 of Chest -1/2").
• Draw BC || AD and DC ||AB. Mark a point E on BC so that BE = 2.4" (1/9
of chest).
Join AE.
• Divide AE into four equal parts namely AH, HO, OP, and PE.
• Mark a point H' above H so that HH' = 1/4". Similarly, mark a point O'
above o so that OO' =
1/2". Mark a point P' below P so that PP" = 1/4".
Remember! the points taken should be
perpendicular to AE.
• Draw a curve joining A, O', and E. Draw another curve joining A, H', O, P',
and E.
• Mark a point F on DC so that FC = 1". Join EF.
• Mark a point G on EF so that GF = 1/4". Join DG by drawing a curve.