Beginner's Course Instruction Booklet
Beginner's Course Instruction Booklet
Instruction Booklet
Version 1.1
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Contents
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The journey begins
Congratulations on taking an important step towards improving your archery skills and
hopefully developing a lifelong passion for the sport. Archery is a great sport as it
teaches you to take control of your mind and body and focusing everything onto a
single task. Archery is all about challenging yourself to do just that little bit better. We
can all do a little bit better, even the best archers in the world could do a little better.
For example, the world record for men’s recurve on the commonly shot FITA90 round
(36 arrows each at 90m, 70m, 50m and 30m) is 1387 out of a possible 1440 points.
Some participants of the Beginner’s courses become disappointed because they set
themselves unrealistically high expectations. They expect perfection because the sight
was in the centre of the target when they released the arrow and when it doesn’t go
where they think it should they get frustrated. As a beginner you should expect to miss
the target occasionally. Expect that the arrows will only occasionally land in the centre
of the target. Once you accept this, you will become more aware of your improve-
ment. First, you will notice that you continually get all the arrows on the target, then, as
you continue to improve, all your arrows start land within the black ring, then the blue
ring and so on. Remember, the point of archery is not to be perfect; it is about just try-
ing to be that little bit better.
Do I need to study this booklet? Won’t I be taught all this stuff in the course?
The instructors at the Beginner’s course will demonstrate and teach all the archery
techniques you need to be able to start shooting with greater accuracy and con-
sistency. However, there is a lot of information that you need to know for you to under-
stand the difference between good and bad
technique. By learning this information prior to
the class you will be able to better visualise
what we are teaching and will be able to pro-
gress much faster.
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Archery safety
The safety of everyone at Centenary Archers Club, whether they are shooting or just
watching, is of paramount importance. Archery safety is a matter of exercising com-
mon sense, good judgement and courtesy1. All members are responsible for their own
safety and the safety of others1. To make sure that everyone stays safe on and off the
field we follow a few simple rules, some of which are outlined below. Our club’s Safety
Policy follows that of archery’s national governing body in Australia (Archery Australia).
Everyone who shoots at Centenary Archers is a member of Archery Australia, and so
should read, understand, and abide by the full Safety Policy1.
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Archery safety continued
• Any bow which is drawn (even without an arrow) must be pointed towards the target
• Never shoot an arrow high into the air or attempt to shoot an arrow over a long dis-
tance without a target.
• Always take care to avoid making physical contact with other archers when handling
a bow and arrow. It is easy to touch a person with the bow tips or an arrow which can
cause distraction to another person.
• If a bow or an arrow falls in front of the shooting line, never go forward to retrieve the
arrow. Wait until all shooting has stopped and the signal to go forward has been given.
• Always step back behind the waiting line when finished shooting.
1: Archery Australia Safety Guidelines, 6th Edition, Archery Australia Inc Board, 2011, Poli-
cy #1018
For all Archery Australia official documents please visit their “Policies and Procedures”
page on the Archery Australia website.
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Archery safety continued
The safety whistle system
The Director of Shooting (D.O.S.) has control of the field and is responsible for everyone’s
safety. The D.OS. coordinates the shooting on the field with a series of whistles so that all
archers know when it is safe to shoot and when they can collect their arrows. The whis-
tles are:
Two whistles:
Move from the waiting line to the shooting line. You can pick up your
bow and load and arrow. Do not raise the bow at the target or attempt
to draw the bow.
One whistle:
The D.O.S. has determined that it is safe to shoot. You may now fire your
arrows at the target when you are ready. You will have 4 minutes to
shoot all your arrows. If archers are still shooting after 3.5 minutes, the
D.O.S. will yell out ‘30 seconds’. You must finish shooting in this time. After
you have finished shooting, return to behind the waiting line so that the
D.O.S. knows when everyone has stopped shooting.
Three whistles:
No more shooting allowed on the filed. It is now safe for archers to col-
lect their arrows from the target. After you have collected your arrows
return to behind the waiting line.
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Course overview
The Beginner’s course is designed in stages. First, the core skills are taught to give the
participants a solid grounding in archery technique. Secondly, participants are intro-
duced to the concept of listening to the body and being aware of your body position
and its effect on the arrow. Lastly, we focus on some of the finer techniques of archery
that are essential to maintain consistency between shots. Along the way, other skills
are also taught so that by the end of the course you should have the confidence and
knowledge to be able to setup a bow and practice archery without requiring any as-
sistance. However, help at the club is always available whenever you need it; you just
have to ask.
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Warm up exercises
Archery places a large strain on your body and damage to muscles or tendons can
occur if you do not do any warm up and stretching exercises. Therefore, we recom-
mend that before you start to shoot that you do at least the following stretching exer-
cises.
To loosen upper arm and chest muscles: Interlock the fingers with palms
out; extend arms above head, keeping fingers locked; stretch upwards
and hold for 10 seconds.
To loosen back muscles: Cross arms in front of chest and place hands
around shoulders. Slowly stretch hands towards middle of back as far as
possible. Hold for 10 seconds
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The 10 steps of Archery
Archery Australia have broken down the archery technique into 10 key steps. Some of
these steps will feel awkward at first however, these steps will allow you to develop a
consistent shooting form which is essential for developing accuracy and precision.
Biomechanics
A key goal of these steps is to develop a shooting style that uses the body’s skeleton as
the foundation with minimum use of muscles. By aligning your body such that the forc-
es are as much as possible directed along the bones, the muscles are mostly used to
stabilize the body. This reduces muscle fatigue, gives greater control and enhances
consistency. However, it is important to note that not everyone can achieve perfect
body alignment due to the relative dimensions or their skeletal structure or their body
shape. It is very common for archers to make a compromise between the ideal align-
ment and one that is more reproducible given their body shape.
But there are archery programs that differ from these 10 steps.
Which is the correct program?
There are many coaches who have developed their own archery pro-
gram. The one you are most likely to hear about on the archery field is
the Kisik Lee method (www.kslinternationalarchery.com). Mr Lee was
Australia’s archery coach that saw Simon Fairweather obtain gold for
Australia in the Sydney Olympics. Not long after this, Mr Lee became
head coach for the USA archery team and has made the USA a domi-
nant force in archery today.
Each archery program has its merits and reasons for doing things differ-
ently. However, the core skills of all these programs are the same. Es-
sentially, you need to be able to get your body into a stable position
which is reproducible and minimises muscle fatigue. The 10 steps, as it
is taught here, is a relatively uncomplicated method which heavily fo-
cuses on these common core skills. Once you have mastered these
core skills, you will be well positioned to be able to assess the merits of
other archery programs
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Stance
Body Alignment
The standing position on the shooting line (the stance) is the foundation of the shot and
each archer will need to develop a comfortable and repeatable position.
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More about stance
Chest down technique
Typically, beginner archers allow both their chest and shoulders to rise up when drawing
the bow. This can lead to string clearance issues in which the string will either push into
the archer’s chest at full draw or slap the bow arm upon release. To correct this, the
archer needs to consciously pull the shoulders down as he/she is drawing the bow. Ide-
ally, archers should also engage their abdominal muscles to pull the chest down to-
wards their hips. Not to be confused with sucking the stomach in, but rather, extending
the stomach slightly, Achieving this will help straighten the lower spine as well as creat-
ing greater string clearance. Note: it is recommended to get comfortable with shooting
a bow before concerning yourself with this technique
Some archers will later adopt an open stance where the feet are still parallel but have
been rotated up to 35 degrees from square (see image on the left). Each type of
stance has its own advantages and disadvantages and the choice of stance depends
largely on the archer’s body shape and string clearance.
Images above show the open stance of an archer shooƟng leŌ handed (leŌ image)
and right handed (right image) with the target to the leŌ
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Nocking the arrow
The arrow is placed on the string just under the metal string nock. This position is called
the nocking point and is positioned slightly above the centre of the string. For recurve
bows the index vane (which is typically a different colour to the other two vanes) is
placed so that it is pointing away from the bow.
To nock an arrow, hold bow so that it is vertical or slightly canted. The bow should not
be horizontal where it could interfere with the archers standing beside you on the
shooting line.
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Setting the string hand
The first three fingers of the drawing hand are placed on the string, the index finger
above the arrow, and the second and third fingers below the arrow. Start with a finger
width gap between the index and middle fingers. These fingers should not be touching
the arrow nock. Initially the string should be positioned just in front of the first joint of in-
dex and third finger and behind the first joint of the
middle finger as this position will prevent soreness
and calluses in the fingers (refer to the image on the
right). As the relative lengths of everyone’s fingers is
slightly different the exact positioning of the string
on the third finger will vary. As the bow is drawn the
string will roll forward slightly in your fingers. The mid-
dle finger takes about 50% of the overall pressure of
the string, the top or index finger takes 40% with the
third or lower finger taking about 10%.
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Setting the bow hand/arm
The bow hand should be positioned directly behind the centreline of the bow. Place
hand on the bow grip so the pressure point is as high as possible into the pivot point of
the bow. By pulling back slightly on the string you should feel the bow put pressure
along the upper part (finger-side) of the thumb muscle (the Thenar Eminence, if you
want to get technical). The pressure of the bow
should not be on the thumb joint, nor on the web-
bing of your hand between your thumb and index
finger. Nor should there be any pressure on the fin-
ger-side of your hand’s life line. In the picture to the
right, the blue dot indicates the point on the hand
where most of the pressure from the bow should be
felt. The pressure point on the hand should also be
aligned with the centre of the bow handle to avoid
bow torque (twisting) upon release.
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More on bow hand/arm
When viewed from the side, the finger knuckles should not be protruding as the fingers
should be relaxed. The knuckles will slope downwards at 45 degrees or less, and will al-
so slope backwards towards the archer. That is, the pinkie knuckle is closer to the arch-
er than the index finger knuckle. When viewed from the other side of the bow, the
thumb should be relaxed and pointed towards the target. The thumb should also be a
little lower than the index finger which will help to ensure that the bones in the forearm
are in the correct alignment and your elbow joint is almost vertical.
Everyone’s hand shape is a little different and many archers will modify their bow grip
to best suit their hand shape and preferred bow grip position. Whatever method is
used, it is important to keep your bow hand relaxed with no muscle tension to avoid
gripping the bow. Any muscle tension or gripping of the bow can introducing side
pressures (torque) on the bow which adversely affect the flight of the arrow.
As the bow hand must remain relaxed, it is essential to use a finger sling (or equivalent
wrist or bow sling) to prevent the bow from falling to the ground after the shot. The
choice of sling type depends largely on the archer’s preference and on that allows the
archer to achieve a consistent relaxed bow hand prior to, and after, the release.
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Pre-draw
Focus and Concentration
Once the fingers have been positioned on the bow string and the bow hand positioned
on the bow, a slight tension is taken up on the string. At this point you need to focus on
the target while remaining in a relaxed state. This is known as the preparation position
where you ready yourself for the shot that is about to be taken. Stand with your head
held upright directly over spine. The head is turned to look directly at the target. Ideally,
from this point on, the focus remains on the centre of the target until the arrow hits the
target. At the preparation stage the you should develop a system that allows you to
“Switch On” and focus. Being able to switch on and focus is important as it narrows the
archer’s concentration, removes external distractions and allows them to only think of
the task at hand.
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Drawing the bow
Commence the draw with the bow aimed at the top of the target. The archer’s upper
bow arm is set into the bow shoulder pocket by squeezing the bow-side shoulder
blade which will pull the bow arm down and backwards. At the same time, the archer
will also be squeezing the drawing arm shoulder blade as the string is drawn back.
While the drawing arm is moving back, the bow arm is held firmly extended with the
shoulder down.
During the draw, keep the drawing arm elbow either level with, or slightly higher than
the arrow to ensure that the correct muscles are engaged. Having a low drawing arm
elbow can lead to rotator cuff injuries and therefore should be avoided. The head
should be held as still as possible, allowing the string to be drawn firmly to the head.
Many archers make the mistake of moving the head toward the string, which decreas-
es the archers draw-length and negatively affects the archers performance.
At full draw, the elbow of the drawing arm should be in line with the shaft of the arrow,
the back of the drawing hand should be flat and the bow arm straight with the elbow
rotated away from the bowstring.
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More on drawing the bow
The diagrams below show the relative positions of the arms and joints throughout the
draw. The green line runs through the centre of the archer’s torso. Note that the
archer’s head is centrally aligned on his body and that the head does not move dur-
ing the draw.
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Anchor
The anchor is the term used to describe the position where the drawing hand makes
contact with the face. Developing a consistent and solid anchor-point is vital for ar-
chery precision.
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More on anchor
Body Alignment
If the body alignment is correctly established during the draw nothing more needs to be
done at anchor. The diagram below shows the ideal relative position of the shoulder
joints, the string arm elbow and the bow hand at anchor. Note that the shoulders are in
alignment with the bow arm and the elbow of the string arm is in alignment with both
hands (and the arrow). This is the most stable shooting form as most of the force of the
bow is directed along the bone structure, which minimises the amount strain placed on
the muscles to hold the bow at anchor. Achieving a stable body alignment will allow
the archer to direct all of his/her attention to aiming and executing the perfect release.
Holding
Holding is the short time frame between the anchor and the start of the expansion step,
which will ultimately result in the release of the arrow. If holding is done correctly, the
archer’s body is maintaining resistance against the natural forces that would cause the
form to collapse. Collapse occurs when either the drawing arm is allowed to be pulled
forward or the bow arm pulled back toward the archer’s body. It is best to think of the
holding step as the brief amount of time in which no additional increase in back tension
is used to allow the archer to stabilise the anchor position. There should never be a loss
of back muscle tension or an engagement of other muscle groups to help “hold” the
weight of the bow.
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Aiming
String alignment
A consistent string alignment must
be maintained between shots. String
alignment is the relationship be-
tween the blurred image of the
bowstring and the sight pin. Align
the string to the right of the sight pin.
This acts as a rear sight and ensures
that back of the arrow is aligned
with the front of the arrow. Failure to
take the sight picture into account
will cause large left/right variations in the positions of the arrow on the target. The pic-
ture above shows the sight picture that the archer should see. In this case it is a blurry im-
age of the white string to the right of the green sight pin. The only thing that is in focus is
the target as that is what the archer is focussing on.
During aiming, the archer must hold their breath to minimise bow arm movement. How-
ever, it is important to understand that it is impossible for an archer to hold the sight pin
still on the target; there will always be movement usually caused by the heart beat. The
archer must remain relaxed and allow the sight pin to float on the target. The subcon-
scious mind will take care of the aiming process. With practice and confidence the
movement of the pin is reduced to the point where it is minimal.
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Release
The release, also called the loose, is one of the most critical steps in achieving good ar-
row flight. A poor release will cause inconsistent variations to the movement of the ar-
row and will result in poor arrow groupings. The release is achieved by relaxing the mus-
cles in the drawing forearm, allowing the weight of the bow to pull the string from the
fingers. In reaction to the loss of pressure from the string the drawing hand moves slightly
backwards. When releasing the arrow, it is important that back tension be maintained
to ensure the release hand stays close to the face. Notice in the image below, taken a
few milliseconds after release, that the hand is relaxed and the skin on the face is slight-
ly puckered by the hand as it slides backwards across the face.
The release should not be forced but should be a natural reaction to the weight com-
ing off the fingers. Being able to relax your fingers while under pressure as opposed to
opening your fingers is difficult for many people. It may help to think of the release as
simply trying to let go of just a few
pounds of pressure from the string
rather than the entire force. This
will be sufficient to allow the string
to slip from the fingers without
making a large movement in your
hand. Typically, when archers do
try to open their fingers to release
the arrow, their hands end up
away from their face with fingers
stretched out almost as if they are
waving goodbye to the arrow.
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Follow through
The follow through is the body movement that occurs after the arrow has left the bow
and is travelling toward the target. During this time, focus must remain on the centre of
the target until the arrow hits the target. Trying to watch the arrow fly in the air can re-
sult in inconsistencies between shots as the archer moves his body before the arrow
has a chance to leave the bow. The follow through consists of two main movements:
the bow will lunge forward and the string hand will propel backwards. Neither of these
movements need to be guided by the archer as they are simply the reaction to the
sudden release in force as the string is released. However, as these movements are re-
actions to the release of force, they reveal important information about what forces
the archer was applying to the bow prior to release.
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Relax
Archery is not a race. There are no prizes given for the person who shoots all of his/her
arrows the quickest. Remember, archery is about controlling your mind and body.
Therefore, after every shot, take the time to relax your muscles and recover from the
shot. This is also the time to analyse the shot. You need to ask yourself a number of ques-
tions including:
• Did the arrow go where I think it would?
• Do I need to change anything before my next shot?
• Where did I feel the stresses on my body during the shot? How do these compare
to shots that landed in the middle of the target?
• How did the bow react after the shot, e.g. did it twist in my hand? What might I be
doing to cause this?
• What aspect of my archery technique should I concentrate on during my next
shot?
• Am I completely lost and need someone to tell me what I am doing wrong?
The time taken to relax between shots should take longer than the act of shooting the
arrow. Before taking your next shot, ask yourself: Am I ready to shoot? Prior to every shot
you need to be mentally focused on what you want to achieve and your body needs
to be rested sufficiently to allow you to achieve your goal.
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What to expect
The bumpy ride that is Archery
Everyone’s archery journey is unique as you are,
but one thing that is common is that it is impossible
to continuously improve day after day, year after
year. While beginner archers often go through a
rapid improvement process, everyone eventually
experiences periods of poor performance, even
the elite archers. This arises due to any number of
factors but commonly it is because the archer has
made a deliberate or unintentional change to
their archery form. This is a very critical time for an
archer as it is easy to tell yourself that “I am no
good at archery, I should just quit”. The much
harder path to take is to tell yourself “ I am not do-
ing as well as I could be but this is an opportunity
for me to become a better and stronger archer”. I
know this sounds a little corny but this really is the
beauty of archery, it will continuously throw obsta-
cles in your way but by seeing these obstacles as
opportunities to improve you will build up your self-
esteem as well as your archery performance.
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Frequently asked Questions
Everyone else is shooting better than me. What am I doing wrong?
Firstly, everyone is not shooting better than you. It is common for people to focus on
their bad shots and forget about their good shots. What you want to be able to do is
shot more of your good shots. This means that you need to be more consistent in your
shooting form. A combination of practice and the information in this booklet will help
you to achieve this consistency. However, if you are really lost, ask for help.
Why bother with the 10 steps when I shoot better instinctively?
Instinctive shooters do not use a sight or other archery aids and purely shoot based on
feeling. However, all talented instinctive shooters use the same techniques as described
in the 10 steps with the only exception of not using a sight and, in some cases, using a
different anchor position and string grip. The ultimate goal of learning archery tech-
nique is to become so familiar with your technique that it becomes an instinctual set of
movements where you highly sensitive to any deviation to your normal form. The 10
steps will feel awkward at first but, their benefits will quickly become apparent.
When will I be ready to shoot at the Olympics?
This isn’t as silly as it sounds. Six years after Australia’s Tim Cuddihy attended a Come n’
try archery session he won a Bronze Medal at the Olympics in Athens 2004. The secret
to archery is to have good form and to be able to replicate this form arrow after arrow.
If you are dedicated and work hard to improve your archery skills, it is possible that you
may get the chance to represent Australia in Archery.
What bow should I buy?
This is impossible to answer. The choice of bow is determined by a number of factors in-
cluding your budget, age, strength, size and personal preference. Bows range from
around $150 to over $2000. Please seek advice from the club coach or instructors be-
fore making a bow purchase to ensure that you purchase a bow that is suited to you.
However, that being said, the correct size bow is roughly determined by the archers
draw-length (distance of arrow nock to the plunger button position at full draw). See ta-
ble below. The longer the bow the smoother the draw, but the arrow speed will be
slower. This guide will help the archer
get the best compromise between Draw-length ( inches) Bow length (inches)
smoothness of draw and arrow speed.
< 26” 64” or smaller
It is not wise to spend a lot of money
26-28” 66”
buying really good quality limbs initially
as you will likely want to get higher 28-30” 68”
poundage limbs after you have built
> 30” 70 or 72”
up your strength. The first set of limbs
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More FAQs
you buy should be light enough that you can obtain good archery form without strug-
gling. Typically, most people buy limbs which are too strong and the archer can not get
good archery alignment. Once you have developed your form and you have built up
muscle strength, you will likely want stronger limbs so that you can shoot longer distanc-
es (like 70m) without resorting to angling your bow way up in the air. As a reference on-
ly, most elite archers use bow weights (the force of the bow at full draw) of approxi-
mately 38-40lb for women and 42-50lb for men. Note: it is not advised to start at such
high draw-weights. You will need to ask an instructor (or coach) what draw-weight is
best for you to start with.
Do I need an expensive bow to shoot well?
No, definitely not. Never fall into the trap of thinking that you can only shoot accurately
with really expensive equipment. This is not true. At least 95% of the accuracy is due to
the archers form, not the equipment. The more expensive bows and equipment will feel
a little nicer and more efficiently transfer their energy Into the arrow. These really ex-
pensive bow setups will only perform fractionally better than a standard mid-range bow
(approximately $500). However, it is also important to realise that the really cheap bows
are usually only good to get the feel of archery and typically not designed for the level
of accuracy required in competition shooting.
When I join the club can I just pay for club membership and not the SQAS and Archery
Australia fees?
Unfortunately no. The fees paid to SQAS (South Queensland Archery Society) and Ar-
chery Australia pay for a number of things including competitions, insurance, record
keeping, administration, training programs etc.. When you become a member of SQAS
and AA you will then be able to shoot at different archery clubs around Australia.
Am I good enough to compete in archery competitions?
Archery competitions do not have to be about competing against others. In fact, most
archers who participate in competitions are not competing for first place, and many
archery events do not even have a prize for first place. Most people participate in com-
petitions to make them better archers as it forces them to focus and to rapidly adapt to
any issue (eg. wind, rain, equipment problem, background distractions etc.). As there is
usually no, or very little competition between archers, archery competitions tend to at-
tract people who want to improve their archery while having a good time and socialis-
ing.
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Even more FAQs
What is the best competition to start with ?
Definitely in-club competitions. At Centenary Archer’s Club (CAC) we have two regular
competitions: The End of Month Shoot (EOMS) and the Centenary Archer’s cup. The
EOMS is held on the last Saturday of every month and there are a number of different
competition rounds that you can shoot. Information on these can be found on the CAC
website as well as on the day. Entry is free although you still need to pay grounds fees
for the day ($5 for adults, $2 for juniors).
The Centenary cup is a new event which is designed to encourage archers to improve.
The competition is held every second Saturday of the month and like the EOMS, entry is
free. Everyone shoots 30 arrows at targets set at 40m,30m and 20m. Your scores are col-
lected and a prize is given to the archer who has improved the most over previous
scores. This event is biased towards the beginner archers who often show dramatic im-
provements in the scores. Do not tell yourself that you will enter into this competition
when you start shooting better. This competition is best entered when you are just start-
ing to learn so that you have lots of room for improvement. Who knows, maybe you will
win it the competition ever month as you continue to improve.
Scores from both the EOMS and the Centenary Archers cup will go towards your classifi-
cation ranking which will be awarded at the end of the year. You can also win ‘All-
gold’ and ‘Perfect’ medals as well as club records. See the CAC website for more de-
tails on classifications, medals and other awards.
How do I know how well I am doing or if I am improving?
The only way to know this is to start scoring your arrows. You can do this in competitions
like the End of Month Shoot or the Centenary Archer’s cup but also recording your
scores every Saturday and comparing them to your previous scores. If you want to get
a little nerdy about it (like me) you can record your scores in an Excel spreadsheet so
that you can graph them overtime. It is great to know what your average score per ar-
row is at each distance so that you can have an idea of whether you are performing
at, or hopefully, above your level.
Just doing archery one day a week is not enough for me, I need more time to practice.
We know how you feel. Typically, some of the members will also shoot at the club on
Sunday afternoons if it is not too hot or wet. We are organising to have an indoor shoot-
ing range installed at our club so that we can shoot at night and in complete shade in
summer. Until then, a number of members will drive to Samford valley archery club to
shoot at their indoor range on Wednesday nights. It costs $7 for Archery Australia mem-
bers.
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Even more FAQs
Can I practice archery at home ?
Yes, but…….
It is the authors understanding that, at the time of writing this booklet, the laws in
Queensland allow people to practice archery at home. However, as laws change all
the time, you will need to confirm that this interpretation of the law is still accurate.
Before you start firing off arrows, there are a number of very important issues that need
to be considered. Firstly, a bow with an arrow nocked is legally considered to be a
loaded weapon in Queensland and as such precautions need to be made to ensure its
safe use. If anyone considers themselves in any danger from your use of the bow at
home, they have the right to call the police and, if these claims are found to be valid
concerns, the police will likely confiscate your bow. Therefore, never shoot towards your
neighbours property regardless of what type of fence you have installed between your
properties. The only way you can ensure the safety of your neighbours is to shoot to-
wards your own house.
If you are going to shoot towards your house you must ensure that no one (including
pets) in your own home are in danger of being injured by an arrow. The target butt
should be set up against a wide, solid wall of your house, ideally brick, that will not allow
misfired arrows to penetrate the wall. There should be no windows or doors nearby your
target butt through which people in your house may be standing behind or walk
though and thereby placing them in danger. One possibility might be to shoot at a tar-
get placed inside your garage.
Important: You are fully responsible for any damages to property, or worse, injuries to
people or animals as a result of your actions. “It was an accident” will not convince the
police that you should not be charged. Take no chances with safety!
To prevent the string from hitting the elbow, it must be rotated out of the way of the
string such that the widest part of your elbow is point downwards. However, this is an
unusual movement and you will need to do some exercises to allow you to be able to
do this under the strain of the bow. At first this may feel uncomfortable but with prac-
tice the you will learn to rotate the elbow during the drawing process.
The exercise
• As indicated in the images below, place the palm of your bow arm on a wall with
your fingers pointing up
• While exerting pressure on the wall with your bow arm, rotate your elbow in a
clockwise direction (right hand archers, anticlockwise for left hand archer).
• Repeat this exercise for a couple of minutes each day.
Note: Ensure that you are only rotating the elbow and not rolling the shoulder upwards
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Building strength
Strength in archery is not only the muscle power required to draw a bow, but also to
maintain balance and stay steady as you aim.
How strong you currently are dictates what poundage of bow you can use. A bow that
is too strong for you will only do possible damage to your muscles and joints.
A light draw weight bow will generally be used for beginners to learn basic skills without
the need for strength. As skills are developed, then a stronger draw weight bow may be
used and so strengthening of muscles will be required. Some of the above stretching ex-
ercises can also be used to strengthen muscles.
The best results for strength training can be achieved by the following principles:
• Specific Movement
• Progressive Loading
Specific Movement
To strengthen the strength and endurance of your archery muscles, the exercise used
should closely imitate the movement of shooting a bow. Remember, when strengthen-
ing specific muscles, include both right and left hand sides to maintain a balance of
muscle strength. The muscle groups used in archery where strength is required are:
• the upper back and shoulder muscles to draw the bow,
• the upper and lower shoulder muscles to control the draw arm,
• the arm muscles to extend the bow arm,
• the finger muscles to hold the bowstring.
If you have your own bow, you can use it to help build strength by repeatedly drawing,
holding and letting down the bow in a similar exercise to that described for the rubber
tubing above. These exercises will give you much greater bow control and allow you to
progress to using bows with higher bow poundages much quicker.
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More on building strength
Progressive Loading
The training weight for a person to start with is usually established by finding the maxi-
mum load that can be lifted 10 times in repetition. (Usually about 75% of maximum
strength). With all exercises, it is best to start with only a few repetitions of each exercise
for the first two weeks, then progressively increase the number of repetitions over a pe-
riod of about 4 weeks, until 8 to 10 repetitions can be achieved. Allow a recovery peri-
od between each exercise to avoid fatigue. Most importantly, if a particular exercise is
causing pain in the muscles or joints, then reduce the weight and/or the number of
repetitions. “No Pain, No Gain” is wrong. When the body feels pain, it is a message to
ease off and slow down before you do damage to muscle fibres and tendons.
These progressive exercises can be achieved via a number of means including using
gym equipment, home exercises such as push ups or using a weight set. However, it is
important to note that you can injure yourself with these exercises if you over exert
yourself so it is best to consult either the club coach or other professionals prior to do-
ing these exercises to get the right advise for you.
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More on building strength
The rotator cuff muscles
The rotator cuff is a group of muscles and tendons that stabilize the shoulder
joints. By strengthening these muscles you will not only minimize the chance
of causing a muscle injury but also increase your ability to hold the bow
steady. Additionally, strengthening the rotator cuff muscles will prevent the
arm rotating into the path of the string.
Rotator cuff injuries can occur during archery due to the strain of drawing the
bow. The low poundage bows and protective equipment used In the begin-
ner’s course minimize the chance of these injuries occurring however, we rec-
ommended that you tone the rotator cuff muscles.
Important: Do not over extend yourself or use heavy weights while doing
these exercises.
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Homework tasks
Prior to, and during the beginner’s course, there are a few homework tasks for you to
complete. These tasks are designed so that you will gain maximum benefit from the
Beginner’s course. As you can see from the detail in this instruction booklet, there is a
lot of information that you need to take on-board in order to develop a good shoot-
ing form. By reading through this information prior to the classes you will have a great-
er understanding of what you need to do and therefore spend more time perfecting
your technique.
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Homework before day 1
Task 1:
Read through the information on the 10 steps in this booklet as try to incorpo-
rate this information with what you already know about archery. In the first
class we will be going through each of these 10 steps with you but as there is
a lot to know it is best if you can try to absorb as much of this as you can be-
fore you start. The notes in this booklet have a lot of detail and therefore it is
likely going to be too much for you to take in all at once. Don’t stress about
it, just take in as much as you can. Feel free to come to class with lots of
questions for us.
Task 2:
The second homework task for the first week is to tone your rotator cuff mus-
cles sufficiently to allow you to rotate your elbow into the correct position
and out of the way of the string. The rotator cuff is a group of muscles and
tendons that stabilize the shoulder joints. Perform the exercises described on
the page entitled ‘Elbow rotation exercise’ found in this booklet for a few
minutes each day or so in the weeks leading up to the course. This is an im-
portant exercise to help you stop the string hitting you on the widest part of
your elbow.
Note: the protective equipment used In the beginner’s course minimize the
chance of these injuries occurring however, this should not dissuade you from
doing these exercises.
We recommend that everyone does these rotator cuff exercises as they will
help to provide more control and minimise the chance of injury to these mus-
cle groups. Information about the rotator cuff muscle groups can be found in
the ‘Building strength’ section in this booklet.
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Homework before day 2
Task 1:
Watch the Archery TV video: ‘Recurve Mixed Team Bronze - Medellin - Archery World
Cup 2013’ which can be found by either typing the title above into your search en-
gine or going to the following address: http://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=xhh3sG27V5s&list=PLnGbQXzYstgEUYStH2DqQUmta9BB0OWNQ&index=11
While watching the video, examine the form of the elite archers. Below is a few ex-
ample questions to ask yourself while you are watching the video:
• Examine their posture. Are they leaning to one side?
• What is their hand position on the bow? What angle is the archers knuckles on
their bow hand?
• Where is their bow pointed at Pre-draw ?
• Where do they place their anchor on their face? Where does the bow string
touch their face at anchor?
• How much movement do the archer’s make at full draw?
• How long do they hold the bow at full draw before releasing the arrow?
• Just after they release the arrow, what parts of their body move?
• What happened to their string hand upon release? Did it stay close to their
face? Where did it end up?
Task 2:
Re-read over the 10 steps of archery in this information booklet. Try to identify the
parts of each step that you haven’t been doing or find difficult. In the second class,
try to practice these things. If you are still having trouble with them make sure you ask
an instructor for help.
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Homework before day 3
Task 1:
Re-read over the sections of the 10 steps that you are still struggling with. Look for more
things that you could try that might help. It may also help to watch other Archery TV
videos of the elite archers shooting. Examine the archers forms in these videos to see
what they are doing at the steps that you are struggling with.
Task 2:
Practice your archery technique in front of a mirror. This may be easier if you have a
piece of rubber tubing to act as a bow substitute. This will help you to visualise your
body position. How does your form compare to the images and descriptions in this
booklet or to the elite archers on the ArcheryTV video from last week’s homework?
This event took place in picturesque Paris and the filming of the archers is outstanding
especially the amazing slow motion shots. Again, closely watch the elite archers and
notice how they perform the 10 steps. Compare your form to theirs, what could you
change in your form to shoot more like the elite archers?
Note: Annoyingly, this video begins with a few minutes of a TV test signal which you
need to skip past.
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Homework after course
Task 1:
Train, practice, train, and practice some more.
There is a difference between practice and training. Practice is where you put every-
thing together and you are just shooting at the target to get used to the feel of the
archery technique that you have developed. Training is where you specifically are
focussing on one or two aspects of your archery form to try to improve these specific
skills. You need a combination of both practice and training to improve in archery.
For example, you may be having trouble with your bow shoulder rising during the
draw, so you may spend a few hours training where you try different things to stop
your bow shoulder rising. During this time, you should not be concerned about arrow
scores. Later on, you may then practice your new form, perhaps by participating in
a competition. During this time you are trying to incorporate all of your archery tech-
niques into a single, flowing series of movements.
Task 2:
Ask for help when you need it. Tell the instructors the technique issues that you are
having and have someone watch you shoot. It is often difficult to self-diagnose our
archery problems so it is also best to ask for help when you need it.
Task 3:
Shoot longer distances. The worst thing you can do in archery is tell yourself you are
not ready to shoot long distances. If you have completed the Beginner’s course you
are ready to shoot 30, 40 or 50m. Nobody expects that you will get all your arrows in
the centre of the target, or even all your arrows on the target. Your scores at these
longer distances do not matter at this stage. It is only important that you push yourself
beyond your comfort limits. It is only by doing this that you will truly improve. Addition-
ally, shooting targets at the shorter distances will seem much easier after having ex-
perience shooting at longer distances.
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Good luck
Upon completing the Beginner’s course you should have all the skills and knowledge
you require to start your own journey into the wonderful world of archery.
My parting advice to you is that archery is more of a mental challenge than a physi-
cal skill. This is what makes the sport so addictive and challenging and yet so frustrat-
ing. Stick at it, keep challenging yourself but, most of all, just have fun with it. It doesn’t
matter what scores you are getting or how well others are doing; just enjoy taking on
the challenge that archery brings and be happy with that.
Archery is also a great social sport, encourage your family and friends to shoot with
you, get involved with the club activities, and perhaps even help make the club even
better by joining the club committee. There is no need to be shy, the people at Cen-
tenary Archer’s Club are a really nice group of people who are always happy to talk
archery.
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