2

Sewing Tools and

Sewing Machine
Operations

Introduction
The process of garment making mainly includes the
knowledge and skills of measuring, marking, cutting
and stitching, which is done using appropriate tools.
Different tools and equipment of measuring, marking
and cutting have their own utility and importance.
The selection of needles, threads and fabric based
on suitability is important for good quality production.
If ignored, it may lead to many defects. In this Unit, the
appropriate threads and needles to be used have also
been discussed.
A Sewing Machine Operator should know how to
make preparations before stitching. For example, one
must be aware about fixing the sewing needle, threading,
adjusting thread tension, checking of stitch formation,
etc. The operationalisation of sewing machine is also
described in this Unit.

Session 1: Measuring and Marking Tools

and their Usage
A Sewing Machine Operator must have sound knowledge
of the various measuring and marking tools so as to
enable one to stitch a garment that fits well.

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 Measuring tools
It is important to take accurate measurements to stitch
a well-fitted garment or any article. Proper selection
of measuring tools is essential for taking the
accurate measurements of the body. Accurate
measurements are needed for making correct
pattern to ensure proper fitting of the garment.
Different type of measuring tools which help to do
the job properly are as follows.

Measuring tape
It is a metal tipped cotton or plastic tape to take
measurements. Generally, the size of a measuring
tape is ½ inch to ¼ inch wide, 60 inches long and
has ⅛ divisions (Fig. 2.1). At one end, it has a small
Fig. 2.1: Measuring tape metal cover and at the other end of the tape, there
is a metal strip of about 3 inches long attached to
take measurements from points like round chest, round
waist and length of the garment, etc.

Ruler
It is made up of plastic, metal or wood.
It is better to have two rulers—one being
1 inch wide and 6 inches long, and the
Fig. 2.2: Ruler other one being 2 inches wide and 18
inches long. The 18-inch ruler is with ⅛ inch grid. A
ruler is convenient for measuring small measurements.
A transparent ruler is used to draw straight lines or
bias lines.

Yardstick
It is a straight edge tool used to physically measure
the lengths up to a yard. It is a flat wooden tool with
markings at regular intervals (Fig. 2.3). Yardsticks are
very useful to draw long seam lines on paper or fabric.
Fig. 2.3: Yardstick

L-square
It is an L-shaped wooden or metal ruler, the long arm of
which measures 24 inches and the short arm measures
14 inches. The L-square has a perfect right-angled
corner and it is used to draw the lines at right angles

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 while making drafts. It is very useful during
the process of straightening the fabric to check
whether the corners of the fabric have got a right-
angled structure.

Hem or skirt marker

It is used to mark the hem length
accurately. It is adjustable and is used
as a measuring guide for marking
width for various sections of the
garment like pleats, hems, seam allowances,
etc., accurately using notches provided at regular
intervals along the gauge (Fig. 2.5).
Fig. 2.5: Hem or
French curves skirt marker
It is a template made of plastic,
wood or metal composed of different curves. It is used
in making drafts to draw smooth curves of varying
radii. The French curve is placed on the material and
a pencil is traced around its curves to produce the
required curves. In garment making, French curves are
mainly used for pattern drafting, pattern alteration and
for shaping the armhole and neckline (Fig. 2.6). The
transparent, light and unbreakable plastic material is
most commonly used in French curves.

Vary form curve Fig. 2.6: French curves

It is the most accepted contour ruler. It is basically an

elongated French curve. This tool is used by pattern
makers, graphic artists, illustrators, etc., to sketch
smooth curved lines. The vary form curve draws a wide
variety of curves by turning smoothly. They are especially
helpful to the pattern makers for drawing more defined
curves of the neckline, collar design, sleeve caps, pocket
contour, armhole, elbow, skirt, trousers, or when a
specific contour is required (Fig. 2.7).

Seam or sewing gauge Fig. 2.7: Vary form curve

It is a small 6-inch metal ruler that has a sliding

distance indicator. It has inch markings on one edge
and centimetres on the other edge. It can take exact

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 measurements of small portions such as
hems, pleats, and buttons, or for other
alterations (Fig. 2.8). This is a useful tool
for detail designing and for small repetitive
designs.

Marking tools
Fig. 2.8: Sewing gauge The printed symbols and markings on the
patterns must be transferred to the fabric
to accurately match the seams and position
of pockets, folds, buttonholes, darts, tucks
and pleats. The object is to create precise
marks that do not remain permanently
or stain the fabric, but are visible during
construction.

Tracing wheel
It helps in marking the measurements and
pattern on the wrong side of the fabric using
tracing paper. Tracing wheels are available
in two styles, one with small serrated edge
Fig. 2.9: Tracing wheel which is appropriate for most fabrics, and
another, with a smooth edge used on fine
or knit fabrics to avoid snagging of the
yarns. The tracing method is to keep the
first layer of the right side of the fabric
facing the ground, the second layer is that
of the tracing paper, and the third layer is
a paper pattern on which the tracing wheel
is moved to transfer the markings.

Tracing papers and sheets

A tracing paper is used with the tracing
wheel/pen/pencil to transfer pattern
markings to the wrong side of the fabric
(Fig. 2.10). Care must be taken when
choosing from the wide range of available
colours, since most varieties produce a
Fig. 2.10: Tracing paper mark that remains in the fabric until it has
been laundered.

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 Tailor’s chalk
It is made of coloured powder that is used to transfer
markings on to the fabric. The tailor’s chalk is available
in assorted colours and in different shapes, mainly
rectangular and triangle. It is also available in the form
of a pencil (Fig. 2.11).

Tailor’s wax Fig. 2.11: Tailor’s chalk

It has a consistency like that of a crayon. It is especially
suitable for use on wool or worsted materials. It is
available in a wide range of colours that is, white, yellow,
red, blue, black and fluorescent green, etc. The marks it
produces can only be removed from the fabric with heat
or laundering. Thus, it is advisable to test the tailor’s
wax on a small scrap of fabric before using it on the
right side of the material (Fig. 2.12). Fig. 2.12: Tailor’s wax

Fabric-marking pens
Such pens are air erasable or water soluble. These are
specifically used for marking designs. After tracing the
design, the colour can last for a long time but disappears
completely at once when damped with water (Fig. 2.13).
Air-erasable pens are especially used for dressmaking,
Fig. 2.13: Fabric-marking
shoe making, handicraft, embroidery, etc., for temporary pens (air erasable,
marking (Fig. 2.13). After drawing, the colour evaporates water soluble)
after 2 to 10 days. Sew the garments shortly after
marking, or seal the marked fabric in a plastic bag with
the air squeezed out. To remove the marks, you can dab
the marks with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol.

Pins
Dressmaking pins are mainly made of stainless steel or
brass and are sized from 10 to 32. Size 17 is the general
purpose dressmaker’s pin, but there are several special
varieties that can be useful (Fig. 2.14). Its main function
is to hold the paper or fabric in position during marking,
cutting and stitching. The correct selection of pins for
the specific fabric (based on the size and material of Fig. 2.14: Pins
the pin) is important as a wrong pin used may create a
defect in the fabric.

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 Notes
Practical Exercises
Activity 1

Draw the marking tools in the practical file (any four).

Material Required
1. Pen/pencil
2. Practical file
3. Sharpener
4. Eraser
5. Ruler
Procedure
1. Draw neatly and correctly, any four marking tools with the
help of a pencil and ruler.
2. Label them.

Activity 2
Prepare a chart of the measuring tools.
Material Required
1. Chart paper
2. Pictures of measuring tools
3. Scissors
4. Adhesive/glue
Procedure
1. Search and collect pictures of the measuring tools from the
Internet, books, etc.
2. Cut the pictures neatly.
3. Paste the pictures on a chart paper and label them.
4. Place the chart paper in the classroom/practical lab.

Activity 3
Identify and practise the use of different types of measuring and
marking tools under the guidance of the teacher/instructor.
Material Required
1. Different types of measuring and marking tools
Procedure
1. Visit the practical/sewing lab under the guidance of
the teacher.
2. Identify the different types of measuring and marking tools.
3. Practise the use of each of these tools.

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 Check Your Progress
A. Fill in the blanks

1. Tailor’s chalk is made of _______________, used to transfer

markings on to the fabric.
2. The available varieties of fabric-marking pens are ____________
and _______________.
3. The short arm of the L-square measures 14 inches and the
long arm measures _______________.
4. A _______________ curve is a template made out of metal,
wood or plastic composed of many different curves.
5. The correct selection of pins for the specific fabric is important
as a wrong pin used may create a ____________ in the fabric.
6. _______________ helps in marking the measurements
and pattern on the wrong side of the fabric using the
tracing paper.

B. Questions

1. Explain the various measuring tools and its uses.

2. Explain the various marking tools and its uses.

Session 2: Cutting Tools and Usage

The selection of cutting tools according to the fabric is
important before starting the cutting process. While
selecting the cutting tools, the quality of tools is very
important that is, the quality of metal used, strength/
hardness of blades, its weight and its plating, etc.

Cutting tools
Some of the important cutting tools that a Sewing
Machine Operator must be aware about are listed below.

Bent-handled shears
These shears are available commonly with
7- or 8-inch blades (Fig. 2.15). The bent
handle allows the fabric to lie smooth and
straight when it is being cut, thus yielding
better control over the cutting edge. These
scissors are available in right-handed or
left-handed styles. These scissors are used Fig. 2.15: Bent-handled shears
to cut fabrics only.

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 Scissors
These are the main tool for cutting fabric.
Scissors have sharp, pointed and slender
blades, used for cutting of different materials.
These scissors are mostly 3 to 10 inches long
Fig. 2.16: Scissors in size. These have round handles for both the
blades. Specific fabric-cutting scissors should
not be used for cutting of heavy material as it
may reduce the sharpness of the blades.

Pinking shears
These shears are generally 9 to 10 inches long
(Fig. 2.17). It is useful in finishing raw edges
of fabric or to produce a decorative edge. It
Fig. 2.17: Pinking shears
is one of the best shears for edge finishing of
various type of fabrics, which do not ravel too
badly. It creates a clean zigzag cut line of any
fabric/material or garments. Pinking shears
produce a notched cutting line (zigzag) to give
a neat look to the inside of the garment and
also prevent ravelling.
Fig. 2.18: Embroidery scissors
Embroidery scissors
These scissors are small, usually 4–5 inches
in length with very sharp blades, used for all-
purpose needlework, ripping and for making
buttonholes (Fig. 2.18).

Buttonhole scissors
Fig. 2.19: Buttonhole scissors
These scissors have notched blades
(Fig. 2.19). They are useful if one needs to
make many buttonholes. These scissors have
a bolt and lock nut which is adjusted to cut a
buttonhole of any length upto 1.5 inches.

Electronic scissors
These scissors are used mostly in the industry.
It can cut thin and heavy fabric (Fig. 2.20). It
is appropriate for cutting silk, nylon, soft and
Fig. 2.20: Electronic scissors
hard-to-cut fabric. The backside of scissors is
like a battery in which the cells are fitted. The
scissors move when the button is pressed.

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 Straight knife
It is a cutting machine basically used for cutting
fabrics with perfect edges. This machine has a
base plate and an upright stand to hold the
vertical blade. A straight knife consists of a
motor to transfer the complete assembly to
another position. The straight knife operator’s
efforts are affected by the weight, motor and Fig. 2.21: Straight knife
the base plate movement of the machine.
Straight knives are available with large variety
of sizes and blade speeds in the market. It is
widely used in the garment industry.

Round knife
It has a base plate with an electric motor placed
above it, with a handle to direct the blade for
cutting as per the requirement. It is used for
fabric cutting in garment factories. Though it
is not used as commonly as the straight knife
cutting machine, but it is used for some specific
Fig. 2.22: Round knife
purpose like cutting single ply as well as multi
layer. It is very suitable for gentle curve line
cutting. This is used to cut the larger part of
the garment.

Seam ripper
It is a simple pen-like device that allows
the removal of machine or hand stitched
seams by cutting the stitches in an
Fig. 2.23: Seam ripper
accurate and safe manner. A seam ripper
is the best equipment to rip or open seams
(Fig. 2.23). While removing the stitches, the
fabric should not be pulled as it can stretch
and easily tear the fabric.

Thread cutter
It is a small handy spring loaded tool,
specifically used for cutting extra threads
Fig. 2.24: Thread cutter
on the garments and ripping seams (Fig. 2.24).
Threads are simply cut by pushing the upper
blade down with the thumb.

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 Cutting table
It is a large, flat table used to spread the fabric and
patterns while marking, pinning, and cutting (Fig.
2.25). They are often covered with thick felt, which
allows the pins to be placed into the surface.

Notcher
Fig. 2.25: Cutting table
It is a tool commonly used in pattern making and
sewing. It creates notches in the paper pattern or
material. By notching, one marks the balance points
of the pattern and also seam allowance, centre lines,
ease, dart intake, etc. (Fig. 2.26). Notches are used
to align the pattern pieces.

Fig. 2.26: Notcher

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Draw any five cutting tools in the practical file.
Material Required
1. Practical file
2. Pencil
3. Eraser
4. Sharpener
5. Ruler
Procedure
1. Draw any five cutting tools in your practical file with the
help of a pencil and ruler.
2. Label them.

Activity 2
Prepare a chart of the cutting tools.
Material Required
1. Chart paper
2. Pencil
3. Scissors
4. Ruler
5. Books/magazines

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 Practical Exercises
6. Pictures of cutting tools Notes
7. Adhesive/glue
Procedure
1. Search and collect pictures of cutting tools from books,
magazines or the Internet.
2. Cut the pictures neatly with scissors and paste on the
chart paper.
3. Label them.
4. Place the chart in the classroom/practical lab.

Activity 3
Identify and practise the use of the different types of cutting tools.
Material Required
Different types of cutting tools
Procedure
1. Visit the practical/sewing lab under the guidance of the
teacher.
2. Identify the different types of cutting tools.
3. Practise the use of these cutting tools.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks

1. _____________ are used to align pattern pieces.

2. A __________________________ is used to rip or open seams.
3. _____________ shears are useful in finishing raw edges of
fabric or to produce a decorative edge.
4. _____________ is a small tool specifically used for cutting
extra threads.
5. The cutting table is mostly covered with _____________, which
allows the pins to be placed into the surface.
6. _____________ is the main tool for cutting fabric.

B. Questions

1. Make a list of cutting tools and give their uses.

2. Write short notes on the following:
(a) Pinking shears
(b) Seam ripper
(c) Cutting table

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 Session 3: Needles and Threads
There are various type of needles and threads available
in the market. It is important to select a suitable needle,
thread and miscellaneous tools for sewing.

Hand sewing needles

These needles are used for hand sewing work or
(a) Milliner needle
embroidery. The needle design varies according
to the purpose. Sharps of medium length can
be used on most fabric weights; betweens are
(b) Sharp needle
smaller, allowing them to make fine stitches. Use
long Milliner’s needles for tacking. Needles are
(c) Between needle
mostly available in different sizes—from the very
Fig. 2.27(a, b, c): Hand small size 9 to the heavy size 18 as shown in Fig.
sewing needles
2.27 (a, b, c). The selection of hand sewing needle
depends on the work to be done and the type of
fabric. For hand sewing, medium length needles with
a short oval eye are selected whereas, for embroidery
work, crewel needles with a long oval eye are selected.
The hand sewing needle has three parts—the eye,
stem and point.

Eye Stem Point

Fig. 2.28: Parts of a hand sewing needle

Sewing machine needles

In the garment industry, there are several types of
sewing machine, each requiring different type of needles.
Each manufacturer of the needle identifies its needles
in a different way; and needles for the same type of
system may have several different names or numbers,
depending on the manufacturer.
Though the sewing machine needles are of various
types, they may be selected according to its application.
The size of the needles mainly depends on the structure
and type of fabric, and sewing threads. Machine sewing
needles (Fig. 2.29) are mostly available from sizes
9 to 18. The different type of needles are made to fix
on specific sewing machines and specific models. The

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 needle sizes should match with the weight, thickness, Notes
and kind of the fabric .
If the needle is very fine, it will abrade the thread;
bend, break, affect the loop formation and cause
skipped stitches. If it is too coarse, it will damage the
fabric, producing an unattractive seam, and causing the
seam to pucker. The different parts of a sewing machine
needle are as follows.

Butt
It is a small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is
designed to make a single point contact with the hole in
the needle bar [see 2.29 (a, b)].

Shank
The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle bar
by the needle screw is the shank. The shank is usually
round, but it can have one or two flat sides. Designed
to support and stabilise the needle blade, the diameter
of the shank is mostly larger than the diameter of
the blade.

Short groove

Point Eye Blade

Shoulder Shank Butt

Fig.2.29 (a) A sewing machine needle

Scarf

Fig.2.29 (b) A sewing machine needle

Shoulder
It is the beginning of the shank just above the
needle blade.

Blade
It is the thin section of the sewing needle that extends
from the shank to the eye. It can be easily bent and hence,
should be examined regularly for its straightening.

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 Notes Scarf
It is a small indentation above the eye that permits the
hook to pick up the thread loop. On some needles, the
scarf is elongated and/or deeper to ensure that the
needle thread loop will be large enough to prevent the
skipped stitches.

Short groove
It is placed in the side of the needle where the hook or
looper is placed. It is a small groove between the tip and
the needle eye. Short groove helps the sewing thread to
create a loop.

Eye
It is an opening in the needle blade at the lower end of
the long groove. It carries the thread into the fabric to
the hook or looper to make a stitch. The size of an eye is
proportional to the diameter of the blade.

Point
It is the tapered end of the needle and is often considered
the most critical part of the needle. Mostly, the needles
have a round point, ball point, or a cutting point.
Generally, round points and ball points are used for
woven and knit fabrics because they can penetrate the
fabric by spreading the fibres or deflecting the yarns
without damaging them, while needles with cutting
points are used mainly for leather.

The different points of a needle are as follows.

Sharp needle
It is pointed and ideal for almost all woven fabrics.
Ball point needle
It has a slightly rounded tip, which is recommended for
all knit and elastic fabrics.
Wedge point needle
A specially designed needle with a wedge like, triangular
point, which enables it to make large, clean holes through

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 thick material like leather, vinyl or suede (pronounced Notes
as swayed). They are ideal for shoe repair, belts and
other leather garments and accessories.
Sewing machine needles can affect the output of a
sewing machine. When an inappropriate needle or bent
needle is used, it can cause skipped stitches, poor stitch
formation, and even damage to the machine.

Selection of needle, thread and stitch for

various fabrics
There is no rigid rule for the selection of needle and
thread but it should be chosen mainly as per the type of
fabric. The recommended needle and thread selection is
given in the table below.
Table 2.1: Recommended needle and thread selection

S. Type of Fabric Type of Needle Number

No. Thread Number of
Stitches
per inch*
1. Lightweight: lawn, Mercerised 9 or 11 10–15
voile, chiffon, cotton, silk,
organza, fine lace nylon, extra
fine (any fibre),
size: 60–100
2. Medium weight: Polyester, 11 or 14 10–12
crêpe, velvet, cotton-wrapped
gingham, stretch polyester,
fabric, terry, mercerised
brocade, linen, cotton, size:
corduroy, some 50–60
types of denim
3. Heavy: wide rib Polyester, 16 or 18 8–12
corduroy, terry cotton-wrapped
cloth polyester,
heavy duty (any
fibre) size: 30-40
4. Very heavy: Polyester, 16 or 18 8–12
canvas, cotton-wrapped
upholstery fabric polyester,
heavy duty (any
fibre) size: 20
*see terminology

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 Sewing thread
Wide varieties of sewing thread are available in the
market (Fig. 2.30). It is very important to select the correct
sewing thread for the fabric. They should share the
same characteristic as they will be laundered, ironed in
the garment and thus, will stretch and shrink together.
A long staple thread is smoother and creates less lint in
the sewing machine. Made of short staples, the thread
is uneven in texture and the result is less than perfect
stitching. A strong thread is good for construction,
especially on fabrics of natural fibre. Mercerised cotton
has been treated to be smoother and straighter with
less fuzz than other cotton threads. Polyester thread
has a high sheen and is abrasion-resistant. Silk
thread is strong and lustrous. This thread is used for
construction and stitched details such as buttonholes
and top stitching. Always select a thread according to
the type of fabric being used. Use synthetic threads with
man-made fibres and mercerised cotton or silk thread
with cotton or linen. Woollen fabrics should be sewn
with silk or synthetic threads as they have stretching
capacity with the fabric. Select a thread which is one
shade darker than your fabric because when worked on
Fig. 2.30: Sewing thread a garment, a thread appears lighter.
The higher the number on the label of a thread, the
finer it is. When stitched, the thread should be well set
into the fabric to give a firm long-lasting seam. If the
thread is too heavy for the fabric, it will remain on the
surface and tear out quickly, reducing the durability of
your garment.

Thimble
It is used to protect the fingers or thumb in the process
of hand sewing. A thimble helps push the needle to the
fabric painlessly, without harming the finger. Metal,
rubber and plastic thimbles are available in the market.
Always use a thimble while hand sewing. Thimbles can
Fig. 2.31: Thimble be worn in any of the fingers or the thumb of the hand.
Mostly, it is worn in the index or middle finger which
holds the needle. It must be comfortable and should be
light in weight (Fig. 2.31).

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 Stiletto
It is a sharp pointed tool used for punching holes in a
fabric/material (Fig. 2.32). It is used for forming eyelets Fig. 2.32: Stiletto
in belts, and for making intricate holes in garments.

Bodkin
It is a flat needle with a blunt end and a large eye
for threading elastic and tape through a loop or hem
(Fig. 2.33).

Fig. 2.33: Bodkin

Iron
Pressing is an essential part of sewing. Every
seam should be pressed as soon as it has been
sewn, to give a clear, crisp line to the seam.
Your pressing iron should be capable of both
dry and steam ironing. A spray attachment is
useful for dry ironing. An ordinary domestic
iron is essential for general pressing; a steam
iron is useful for lightweight fabrics. Pressing
cloths are most important. Use cheesecloth
for lightweight fabrics and cotton or linen for
heavier fabrics. Fig. 2.34: Iron

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Visit a sewing machine shop/boutique/workshop/garment
manufacturing unit and make a report on the different type of
needles and threads used for different type of fabrics.
Requirements
1. Notebook
2. Pen
3. Camera (if available, or mobile phones with camera)
4. Vehicle (bus) for field visit

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 Practical Exercises

Notes Procedure
1. Visit the local sewing machinery shops/boutiques/
workshops/garment manufacturing units with your teacher
to study and observe the different type of needles and threads
used for different fabrics.
2. Write down the different type of needles and threads used in
shops/boutiques/workshops/garment manufacturing units.
3. Prepare a report of the study field visit using photos and
materials (if any) collected from the site.

Activity 2
Draw the different type of needles and label their different parts
in your practical file.
Material Required
1. Practical file
2. Pencil
3. Eraser
4. Sharpener
5. Ruler
Procedure
Draw a hand and sewing machine needle in your practical file
with the help of a pencil and ruler. Label its parts.

Activity 3
Identify the following tools—thimble, stiletto, bodkin
Material Required
1. Tools for identification
2. Notebook
3. Pen/pencil
Procedure
1. Visit the practical/sewing lab with your teacher.
2. Identify the given tools.
3. Write in the notebook.

Check Your Progress

A. Match the columns

Tools Functions
(a) Thimble 1. punching holes in material
(b) Needles 2. threading elastic through loop
(c) Bodkin 3. passing the thread through the fabric
(d) Stiletto 4. safety of the finger

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 B. Fill in the blanks Notes
1. Machine sewing needles are available from sizes ____ to _____.
2. _______________ is used for threading elastic or tape through
the loop.
3. _______________ is a protective tool used to fix on the thumb
and fingers for safety from injury.

C. Short answer questions

1. Explain hand sewing needles in brief.

2. Describe the different points of sewing machine needles.
3. Write short notes on:
(a) Thimble
(b) Iron
(c) Threads

D. Long answer questions

1. Explain the different parts of a sewing machine needle

in detail.

Session 4: Preparation and Operation of

Sewing Machine
There are some key steps that need to be kept in mind for
the preparation and operation of the sewing machine.

Preparation of a single needle sewing machine

Before starting the operation process in a single needle
sewing machine, an Operator should be aware of every
aspect relating to the sewing machine. This includes
the problems one may be faced with while working too,
so that they may be rectified by the Operator or can be
reported to one’s supervisor.
The steps for preparing a sewing machine for stitching
are listed below.
(a) Connect the machine to the power supply
(b) Placement of foot control
(c) Adjust the presser foot
(d) Wind the bobbin
(e) Select the correct needle and thread for sewing
(f) Fix the needle into needle bar
(g) Set the bobbin and bobbin case in the machine
(h) Thread the machine

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 (i) Adjust the thread tension
(j) Adjust the stitch length
(k) Check the stitch formation
(l) Check the reverse stitching lever

(a) Connect the machine to the

power supply
Before connecting the power cord, ensure
that the voltage and the frequency shown
on the sewing machine conform to the
electrical power.
1. Connect the plug to connect the
foot control.
2. Now, connect the foot control to the
machine socket.
3. Connect the power plug to the
power socket.
(1) Power plug (2) Power switch (3) Power socket 4. Switch ON the power and sewing light.
(4) Machine socket (5) Foot control plug
(6) Foot control
Note: This step is applicable for a
Fig. 2.35: Connection of power supply to the motorised sewing machine.
sewing machine
(b) Placement of foot control
1. The speed of the sewing machine can
be controlled by the foot control. The
stronger it is pressed on the control,
the faster the machine runs.
2. The foot control should be placed at
the correct position for the Operator
to operate it comfortably.
Note: This step is applicable for a
Fig. 2.36: Foot control
motorised sewing machine.

(c) Adjust the pressure of the presser foot

It is important for a Sewing Machine Operator to have
complete knowledge of the required pressure on the
material, and method of adjusting the pressure when
needed. The pressure of the presser foot is required to
be adjusted as per the thickness or heaviness of the
fabric/material to be sewn. Heavy fabrics require more
pressure than the lightweight fabrics. The pressure
should be heavy enough to prevent the fabric from

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 rising with the needle, and to enable the feed to move Notes
the fabric along evenly without side creeping.
The pressure of the presser foot can be adjusted by
using the thumbscrew. To increase the pressure, turn
the thumbscrew clockwise or downward. To lighten the
pressure, turn the thumbscrew anticlockwise.
When the pressure is appropriately applied correct
stitches will be formed (Fig. 2.37).

Fig. 2.37: Correct stitches

(d) Wind the bobbin

A sewing machine has two thread sources for stitching—
a top thread and a lower thread stored on a bobbin. The
following steps are to be followed to fill the bobbin.
1. To wind the bobbin with the thread, place the
bobbin spool on the bobbin winder fitted on
the top.
2. Wrap the thread from the reel placed in the thread
spool around the bobbin.
3. Press the treadle/foot control or turn the hand
wheel to start winding.
4. The winding in the bobbin should be uniform.
5. Once the bobbin is sufficiently filled with thread,
stop winding and remove the bobbin.

(e) Selection of needle and thread for sewing

For the selection of the appropriate needle and thread,
kindly refer to session 3 of this Unit.

(f) Fix needle into the needle bar

Sewing machine needles have one side flat, so they
can only be placed from one side—usually the flat side
towards the back. The following steps should be followed
to fix the needle into the needle bar.
1. Pull the needle bar to the highest level to insert the
needle (Fig. 2.38 Label: 1).
2. Loosen the screw or needle clamp to fix the needle
(Fig. 2.38 Label: 2).

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 3. Keep in mind that there is a groove. Insert the
needle (Fig. 2.38 Label: 3) in a straight line in the
groove and tighten the needle clamp securely and
tightly to fix the needle properly.
4. If you are still having trouble, refer to your
machine’s manual.

Front

3
Long groove

Fig. 2.38: Attaching the needle

(g) Set the bobbin and bobbin

case in the machine
1. Hold the wound bobbin
1 and bobbin case with
2
both hands.
2. Place the bobbin in the bobbin
case correctly.
3. Pass the thread through a small
notch at the front of the bobbin
case and then pull the thread
out, as shown Fig. 2.39 Label: 1
3
and 2
4. It should be checked that the
bobbin should move clockwise
Fig. 2.39: Threading the lower thread when the thread is pulled out.
5. Leave the end of the thread
outside the bobbin case. It should

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 be brought up through the hole in the needle plate
after the top thread is threaded.
6. Hold the latch of the bobbin case and fix it into the
rotary hook (Fig. 2.39 Label: 3).
7. Lock the bobbin case in the machine.

(h) Thread the machine

1. The take-up lever should be raised to keep the
needle at its highest point which will help in
threading the upper thread.
2. This will make threading easier and it will prevent
the thread from coming out while sewing.
3. Take the thread end with the hand and pull it
through the thread guide at the top, and then
down.
4. Then thread it around the take up lever.
5. Follow the instruction to thread as per the
guidelines printed in your machine’s manual.
6. Usually, the thread follows this general pattern:
left, down, into a hook, through the needle.

(i) Adjust thread tension

For good quality stitching, a balanced
Lower thread
tension or balanced stitches are
desirable. When the tension of the Becomes weaker
Becomes stronger
upper and lower thread is balanced,
the threads interlock in the middle of
the fabric to make perfect or balanced 2
Becomes stronger
stitches. Adjust the tensions only as
Becomes weaker
needed until the stitch is balanced. 1
The tension of the stitch is regulated
by two controls. Fig. 2.40: Adjusting thread tension

1. Upper thread tension

After lowering the presser foot, turn the nut to adjust
the upper thread tension. For this, turn the nut to the
left to loosen it. Turn it to the right to tighten, as shown
Fig. 2.40 Label 1.
2. Lower thread tension
It is adjusted by tightening/loosening the screw of the
bobbin case, as shown Fig. 2.40 Label 2. The bobbin

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 Notes case screw is very short and will fall out if turned too far.
The bobbin case tension screw, which is located on the
bobbin case, controls the tightness of the bobbin case
spring. These controls increase or decrease the amount of
pressure on the threads as they feed through the machine.
Appropriate thread tension is needed for perfect
stitching. The tension on the needle and the bobbin
threads must be heavy enough to pull the threads to
the centre of the thickness of the fabric and make a
firm stitch.
Correct seam with balanced thread tension is shown
in Fig. 2.41.
Upper Thread

Lower Thread

Fig. 2.41: Correct seam

The appearance of seams when the upper tension is

too loose is shown in Fig. 2.42.

Fig. 2.42: Seams when the upper tension is too loose

The appearance of seams when the upper thread

tension is too tight is shown in Fig. 2.43.

Fig. 2.43: Seams when the upper tension is too tight

(a) Correct stitch (b) Too loose (c) Too tight

Fig. 2.44 (a,b,c): Tension problems

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 The structure, texture, thickness, density, and resilience
of the fabric, and the size and type of the thread, affect
the tension. The tension setting will vary with the
material and the thread size and type. Test the tension
before you begin stitching or sewing with a different
fabric, thread, or machine.

(j) Adjust the stitch length

A stitch length regulator/dial is used to adjust the stitch
length and get the desired length.
The stitch length regulator/dial controls the distance
that the feed dogs move the fabric to the back of the
machine to make a single stitch. The bigger number on
the stitch length dial produces a long stitch, and the
smaller number produces a smaller stitch. To change
the stitch length, dial from a larger setting to a smaller
setting, it is simpler to turn the dial.

(k) Checking the stitch formation

Before starting sewing on the final material, it is a
good practice to check the formation of stitch on a
rough fabric. Change the pressure and thread tension
as required for correct stitch on the final material
(Fig. 2.37).
The method of stitch formation in a sewing machine
(Fig. 2.45) is as follows.
1. The needle descend (that is, the downward action
of the needle) passes through the fabric.
2. Then it reaches its lowest point and begins to
rise slowly.
3. It creates a loop. The shuttle enters the slack-loop,
enlarging it and taking with it the under thread,
and when the needle reaches back to its highest
level, a complete interlock stitch is formed.

Fig. 2.45: Steps of stitch formation

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 Notes (l) Checking of reverse stitching lever
1. When the reverse stitching lever is pushed, the
cloth feed direction for sewing will be reversed.
2. When it is returned to its original position, the feed
direction for sewing will change back to normal.

Operating the sewing machine

Single needle sewing machines are mostly used in
domestic tailoring and also in industrial or commercial
production. They are most commonly used as they
serve the purpose of basic seam formation. As the name
suggests, the machine uses a single needle to make a
single seam line. The stitch is formed by interlocking
two threads—the upper and the lower bobbin thread.
The following are the steps for operating a single
needle sewing machine.

(a) Sew on the fabric

1. Raise the presser foot and then turn the flywheel
so that the take-up lever is at its highest level.
2. Pull the upper and lower threads straight back side
under the presser foot to avoid them from knotting
at the beginning of the stitching line.
3. Place the fabric to be stitched under the presser
foot, allowing the seam allowance to the right side
of the needle and the rest of the fabric to the left.
4. Turn the flywheel until the needle point enters the
fabric at the exact beginning point.
5. Lower the presser foot and then start the machine
slowly, simultaneously guiding the fabric gently
with the hand.
6. To check stitch length and proper tension, first
stitch on a scrap, that is rough cloth. Finalise it
and then stitch on the final material.
7. Gradually, increase the speed of the sewing
machine for stitching.
8. The fabric will move forward and the stitch will be
formed continuously.
9. Before the end of the stitching line, stitch slowly
with the right hand on the flywheel and left hand

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 on the fabric that is being worked on (while using Notes
hand machine). Stop the machine in time to not
sew beyond the fabric.
10. Take up the presser foot, then pull the material
straight back with threads under the presser foot
to avoid bending of the needle.
11. Cut the threads using the thread cutter or scissors.
Precaution
1. Do not pull the material/fabric forward or
backward, but hold the two layers slightly tight
and firm at the back and front of the presser foot.
2. Keep the take-up lever at its highest point to
avoid unthreading the needle when beginning to
stitch again.
3. Leave about two to four inches of thread, extending
from the machine to prevent unthreading.

(b) Fastening the thread ends

It is essential to fasten the threads at the ends of
the stitching lines which are not to be crossed later
(for example, points of darts). This can be done in
three ways.
Reverse stitching
Stitch till the termination point with the needle in the
fabric. Now carry out reverse stitching, and then cut
the threads.
Pivoting
Stitch till the termination point with the needle in the
fabric, lift the presser foot and stitch back a small
distance along the seam. Cut the threads.
Tying
After you have reached the end of the stitching line, pull
the fabric back and cut the threads, leaving a length of
about two to four inches extending from the fabric. Pick
the last stitch with a pin or needle point so that both the
thread ends come to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie a double knot.

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 Notes
Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Practise the following on a sewing machine in the practical lab.
1. Connecting the machine to the power supply
2. Understanding the placement of foot control
3. Adjusting the presser foot
4. Winding the bobbin
5. Selecting the appropriate needle and thread for sewing
6. Fixing the needle into the needle bar
7. Setting the bobbin and bobbin case in the
sewing machine
8. Threading the machine
9. Adjusting the thread tension
10. Adjusting the stitch length
11. Checking the stitch formation
12. Checking the reverse stitching lever
Material Required
1. Single needle lock stitch machine (manual operated
or motorised)
2. Power socket and outlet
3. Sewing machine needle
4. Screwdriver
5. Thread
6. Bobbin and bobbin case
7. Fabric scraps
Procedure
Follow the instructions given in this session.

Activity 2
Practise operating the sewing machine in the practical lab and
prepare a sample of the different stitch formations.
Material Required
1. Single needle lock stitch machine (manually operated or
motorised)
2. Power socket and outlet
3. Sewing machine needle
4. Thread
5. Bobbin and bobbin case
6. Fabric scraps (10"X10") 4 samples
7. Practical file

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 Practical Exercise

8. Scissors
Notes
9. Adhesive/glue
Procedure
1. Prepare the sewing machine as per instructions given in
this session for stitch.
2. Prepare the samples of correct stitch, or a stitch when the
upper tension is too tight and too loose. Finish the
prepared samples.
3. Attach samples in your practical file.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks

1. Speed of sewing machine can be controlled by the

_________________.
2. Check that the bobbin turns _________________ when the
thread is pulled.
3. When the reverse stitching lever is pushed, the cloth feed
direction for sewing will be ________________.

B. Short answer questions

1. Write steps of threading the sewing machine.

2. Write short notes on:
(a) The steps for operating the sewing machine
(b) Placement of foot control
(c) Adjusting the stitch length
3. Write about adjusting the pressure of the presser foot.

C. Long answer questions

1. Explain the thread tension as per the stitch formation with

a diagram.
2. Explain the winding of bobbin and its setting in the machine
3. Describe the operating procedure of a sewing machine and
the precautions while sewing.

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