M32 CATAMARAN

ASSEMBLY MANUAL

1
 M32 CATAMARAN
ASSEMBLY MANUAL

GET ASSEMBLY VIDEO

INSTRUCTIONS AT: M32WORLD.COM

TECHNICAL INFORMATION 4

UNLOAD TRAILER 6

PLATFORM ASSEMBLY 12

MAST ASSEMBLY 20

MAST STEPPING 30

BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY 46

RUDDER ASSEMBLY 52

RACK ASSEMBLY 56

SAILING PREPARATIONS 60

RIG SETTINGS 64

MAIN HALYARD LOCK 72

This manual is a guide for assembling the boat and stepping the mast and AHC takes no responsibility
for damages caused while assembling the boat. If a problem or irregularity arises while assembling the
boat, contact your local M32 representative.

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3
 M32 CATAMARAN
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
The instructions in this manual are made with the intention of making
owners safely put together, handle and use the boat for training and racing.
The M32 is a high performance racing boat designed and dimensioned for
inshore racing and should be used accordingly.

WE WANT TO STRESS THE IMPORTANCE OF FOLLOWING THIS MANUAL WHEN ASSEMBLING,

HANDLING AND SAILING THE M32. HAVING THE RIG ACCORDING TO THE RECOMMENDED
SETTINGS WITH THE SPREADER ANGLE, DIAMOND TENSION AND MAST RAKE BEING THE KEY
PARAMETERS.

RIG
• Mast rake should be 480mm +/- 5 dyneema can be put around the goo-
mm. seneck to get a better angle for the
ring/block.
• The diamond tension using the Loos
& Co. gauge RT-10M (3,2-7,1mm) with • The gennaker luff length should be
the base of the gauge in just above 15,630 meter, measured bearing to
the mast winch is recommended to be bearing, with a tension of 40 Kg on
in the interval 45-55. the luff.

• Spreader angle should be 190mm +/- • In rig setting point 2 the measuring
5mm. point is defined as 70 mm above the
joint on the backside of the aft beam.
• The soft rig setting is constantly
changing due to material properties.
It is important to always check the rig
settings before any sailing.

• We recommend Spinlock Rig Sense

RGS/0508 for measuring the aft stay
tension.

• Ensure that the cunningham line is

not resting on the diamond stay, a

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PLATFORM AND APPENDAGES BOAT HANDLING
• It is recommended to grease all bolt • The mainsheet and traveler combined
treads. The bolts should be cleaned is supporting the mast both upwind
and the threads protected at every and downwind and the gennaker
disassemble of the M32 to extend the needs to be eased prior to the main-
lifetime of the bolts and to avoid the sheet when depowering the sails.
risk of the bolts to get stuck when
assembling. We recommend Molykote HALYARD LOCK
1000 or similar. • Make sure that the steel locking arm
on the halyard lock is all the way
• We recommend to use Norbar Model
down into the groove when locked.
1523 Torque wrench (10 - 50 Nm) or
Do not connect the cunningham or
similar for tensioning the beam bolts,
boom if this is not the case as it is not
traveler bolts and strut bolts.
designed to take the load unless the
steel locking arm is all the way into
TECHNICAL INFORMATION the groove.
• The gennaker should only be hoisted
when the mainsail is fully up or at the
first reef, having the gennaker luff
tightened when the mainsail is at the
second reef is not allowed. To have
the gennaker up when sailing with two
reefs will risk losing the mast as the
mainsail is supporting the mast.

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 UNLOAD TRAILER
PARTS AND TOOLS

PARTS INCLUDED

1 Trailer

6
 1

TOOLS INCLUDED

1 Ratchet spanner

2 19mm socket

7
 UNLOAD TRAILER
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Make sure the handbrake his on.

2 Unlock the handles so that the hulls can be folded down.

8
 3 Take the starboard hull down.

4 Put on the trolleys. They are labeled forward, FWD, and aft, AFT.

TIP! Make sure bolts are in good condition and store the spanner and bolts in the storage box
in the front of the trailer.

9
 5 Use a 19 mm spanner to get the hull off the trailer arms.

6 Take the port hull down.

7 Put on the trolleys. They are labeled forward, FWD, and aft, AFT.

10
 8 Use a 19 mm spanner to get the hull off the trailer arms.

9 Take off the cross beam to be able to open the hatch.

TIP! You do not need to take off the mast to be able to open the hatch.

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 PLATFORM ASSEMBLY
PARTS AND TOOLS

5
3
6
4
7

PARTS INCLUDED

1 Main beam 5 Furlingline

2 Aft beam 6 Override preventers
3 4x Traveler bolts (Incl. washer) 7 Trampoline
4 8x Beam bolts

12
 6
5
1
2 3

TOOLS INCLUDED

1 Brush 5 Ratchet spanner

2 Grease 6 Torque wrench

3 16mm socket

4 19mm socket

13
 PLATFORM ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Position the two hulls, with the trampoline tracks and winches
facing inwards, so that the beam beds line up.

2 Place the main and aft beam in the beam beds.

TIP! Make sure to clean the surfaces from grease rests and/or dirt. For any bumps or irregu-
larities that are not coming off, use a 240 grid sandpaper. The surface needs to be even for
the best fitting off the beams.

14
3 Grease and fasten the beam bolts using a 19 mm spanner. The
bolts should be tightened to 40 Nm using a torque wrench.

TIP! It can sometimes be a bit tricky to get all the holes to line up. To facilitate the assembly;
start to line up one of the inner holes and tighten the beam bolt, leave it with a bit of play.
Then continue with the other inner ones going around and then do the same procedure with
the outer ones. When all bolts are in, tighten to 40 Nm. Recommended is also to go over the
bolts with the torque wrench when the boat is in the water to make sure all bolts are properly
tightened.

4 Fasten the 4 traveler track bolts with washers from inside the
cockpits. The bolts needs to be greased before they are inserted
and tighten. The bolts should be tightened to 20 Nm with a torque
wrench.

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 5 Position the trampoline behind the boat with the side with two
glass fibre rods facing forward and with the forward and aft seams
are pointing against the main beam and aft beam respectively.

6 Slide all the trampoline sliders into the tracks on both sides. To be
able to get the front and back lashing into position, untie the sliders
on the sides so that there is no tension on the trampoline.

TIP! Easiest way is to be two persons, one from each hull. Be careful so that the glass fibre
rods are not scratching the hulls.

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7 Fasten the trampoline by running the lashing as shown on the
picture. Start with the lashing on the main beam and start from the
middle and work out towards the hulls to get the tension of the net
straight and to stretch the net as much as possible for good tension.

8 For the aft beam lashing, start with making a loop in the middle of
the lashing and then lash outwards from the middle.

9Attach the lashing in the eyebolts in the corners of the trampoline

and tighten. This will help to get the rods straight and avoid any large
gaps between hull and trampoline.

TIP! Remember that the lashing and the net is a living material meaning that it will stretch
and behave differently given the govern environment.

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 10 Tension the sliders on both sides. To prevent the rods from bre-
aking, do not tight too hard the first round and tension every other
slider. Then go over a second turn and tension the ones not tighte-
ned. Then all sliders can be tensioned equally hard.

Tensioning will have to be done prior each time of

IMPORTANT! sailing since the lashing and net is stretching.

11Place the furling line around the mast knob and make sure it is
not twisted.

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12 Mount/check override protectors. Remember that with a loose
tensioned trampoline the angle of the gennaker sheet going onto the
winch will vary.

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 MAST ASSEMBLY
PARTS AND TOOLS

10

3
1 5 6

2 4 7
11

PARTS INCLUDED

1 Spreaders 5 Cunningham 9 Lower mast

2 Main halyard 6 Rotation Line 10 Upper mast
3 Loop halyard small 7 Diamond stay upper 11 Halyard lock (mast car)
4 Gennaker halyard 8 Diamond stay lower

The diamond stays should be handled with care

IMPORTANT! and kept secured in the bowsprit during transport.

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 1

2
4
6

5 8
10
3
9

TOOLS INCLUDED

1 Loos & Co. gauge RT-10M (3,2-7,1mm) 6 Torx set

2 Folding ruler 7 Shock cord

3 Ratchet spanner 8 Brush

4 19mm socket 9 Grease

5 Electrical tape 10 Lubricant

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 MAST ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Take the top section and line it up with the bottom section. Lubri-
cate the joint and assemble the mast by sliding the top section onto
the bottom section.

TIP! Have one person at the bottom of the mast, one person holding the bottom section still
at the stand closest to the joint and one person at the top of the mast. The person at the
joint guides the person at the top to move the top of the mast so it slides on nicely.

2 Move the upper stand just above the stay fitting on the top sec-
tion and keep one stand at the mast winch on the bottom section.

TIP! Have the mast leading edge pointing downwards and use the Cunningham line to tie the
mast winch to the stand to keep the mast in this position. The mast will be easier to continue
assemble in this position.

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3 Lock the sections together with the six M6 bolts. Make sure to not
over tight.

4 Lube the mast track to decrease friction when hoisting the main
sail.

5 Connect a mouse line to the gennaker halyard and run it through

the gennaker halyard box and then guide the halyard down the luff
track. Run the halyard through the clutch and then trough the port
halyard block on the mast foot. Secure with a stop knot.

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 6 Remove the top sheave to insert the main halyard. Use a mouse
line to guide the halyard down the luff track. If the halyard is new,
connect the main halyard loop by first doing one half hitch with the
loop in between and then one half hitch at the end of the halyard.

7 Connect the main halyard loop by first doing one half hitch with
the loop in between and then one half hitch at the end of the halyard.

TIP! The halyards need to have a diameter of 8mm to prevent the halyards to come out
through the luff track. Do not remove the cover or use lesser diameters.

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8 Run the halyard lock(mast car) to test the top mast lock, reef 1
and reef 2. Make sure the steel pin on the halyard lock(mast car)
slide all the way into the grooves and that the rings on the steel pin
have a bit of play between them and the mast tube.

9 Measure the distance of the spreader adjustments to make sure

that they are the same length.

10 Connect the spreaders to the mast. Make sure that the rings
for the clevis pins are connected so that the rings are facing
downwards.

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 11 The diamond turnbuckle needs to be properly greased to function.
It’s a good opportunity to clean and service the turnbuckle when the
mast is disassembled. Unscrew and remove the bolt entirely, do not
remove the hanger from the mast. Clean the bolt, bronze nut and
washer. Put grease on the entire thread of the bolt and bronze nut
and on the washer.

Make sure that the nut is all the way down in the
hanger as shown in the picture, this must be
IMPORTANT! controlled while tensioning the bolt to ensure that
it is not on the side.

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 12 Attach the diamond stays starting from the top. Make sure the

clevis pins are inserted so that the rings are facing towards the trail-
ing edge to avoid the gennaker getting caught. Connect the top and
bottom diamond stays to the spreaders and then finally connect the
bottom diamond stays to the diamond turnbuckle.

TIP! Make sure the pins are all the way in.

13 Tension the diamond turnbuckle to 50 using a Loose & Co tensi-

on gauge RT-10M (3,2 - 7,1 mm). The gauge should be placed on the
diamond stay with the base just above the mast winch.

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 14 Measure the spreader angle by having a tensioned chock cord
rest against the lower diamond and against the respective spreader
tip. This measurement should be 190 mm +/- 5 mm. If the spreader
angle is NOT as required, take the diamond tension off, adjust the
spreader adjustments and repeat procedure until required angle is
achieved.

15 When the spreader angle and the diamond tension are set, tape all
pins to avoid any wear or damage to the sail and rig.

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16 Fasten cunningham.

17 Fasten rotation line.

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 MAST STEPPING
PARTS AND TOOLS

PARTS INCLUDED

1 Stay set
2 Boom

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 8
5
1 2 4
6
3
7

TOOLS INCLUDED

1 Stepping line 5 Mast stepping block

2 Rigging lines 6 Brush

3 Winch handle 7 Grease

4 Ruler 8 Padding

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 MAST STEPPING
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Place the T-tang on the ground below the stay connection point in
the mast. Do not connect to the mast yet.

TIP! It is a good routine to always start with checking that the furling line is around the mast
knob and not twisted.

2 Run the front stays, which are the two middle ones on the T-tang,
to starboard and port chainplate respectively.

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 3 Lash the stays with at least 4 laps and tie off so that the load is
evenly distributed, as shown in picture. The lashing length is approx-
imately 400 mm measured from the stainless pin to the top of the
friction ring on the stays.

TIP! Before de-rigging the boat, take measurements of the distance between the pin and
friction ring for next time rigging the boat.

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 4 The aft stays are, during the mast stepping procedure, lashed to
the main beam bolts on respective sides. The length should be app-
roximately 250 mm from bolt to friction ring.

5 Apply grease on the mast knob and into the mast foot.

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6 Place padding on the main beam on the port side of the mast
knob. Then lift the mast and rest it on the padding with the rotation
arm pointing to port.

7 Hook the T-tang to the mast.

8 Attach the boom to the mast and place it so that it rests on the

port hull in front of the main beam.

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 9 Run the rotation line.

10 Run the hoisting block around the aft beam, on the starboard side
of the traveler adjustment plate, approximately 150 mm from the
plate.

TIP! Make sure that the block will not scrape against the traveler plate.

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11 Run the stepping line trough the block, connect one end to
the lower double boom loop with a bowline and put the other end
through the override preventer and on the port deck winch and tie it
off. Have as a routine to always check that the winch screw is tighte-
ned to avoid the drum from coming off when stepping the mast.

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 12Attach the main halyard to the upper double boom loop with a
bowline.

13 Tighten the halyard and tie it off around the gooseneck with a

bowline.

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14 If needed, adjust the hoisting line and/or main halyard so that
the both lines are tensioned without slack and with the boom in the
correct angle, as seen in picture.

15 Connect rigging line around the boom, aft of the outhaul slider.
Important to connect these so that the support lines cannot slide
inwards or off the boom when stepping the rig. Tie the port one to
the port main beam bolt with enough slack so that the boom can be
raised and point straight up.

TIP! When a good length have been found, mark where to tie off for future setups.

39
 16 Raise the boom straight up and attach the starboard support line
to the main beam bolt so that the boom will point straight up when
the mast foot will be put on the mast knob.

17 Rotate the mast so that the rotation arm is pointing upwards. Tie
off the rotation line around the boom.

TIP! Have one person at the top of the mast to make sure that it does not fall of the stand
when rotating.

40
18 Double check that all including parts and systems are properly
prepared before stepping the mast. Use below Checklist:
- Is the main halyard properly tied off?
- Is the rotation line properly tied off?
- Is the stepping line through the override preventer?
- Are the boom support lines properly attached so they cant
slide down the boom nor off the boom?
- Is the mast knob greased?
- Is the furling line around the mast knob and not twisted?
- Is the mast stepping block free from the traveler plate?
- Is there a winch handle at the port winch?
- Is the winch screw tightened?

Before stepping the mast read point 19 to 24.

19 We recommend to be 4 persons during the mast stepping proce-

dure. Have one person at the top of the mast, one at the foot of the
mast and two at the port deck winch. The persons at the mast will
be handling the mast and steering it during the hoisting. Of the other
two, one will grind and the other will tail the stepping line. These
persons will sit on the M32 to ensure that the aft won’t lift when
hoisting the mast.

41
 20 Start by lifting the mast foot onto the mast knob.

TIP! A small ease of the stepping line will make it easier to get the mast into place.

21 The person at the top of the mast will lift the top as high as pos-
sible to get the mast top higher than the main beam to facilitate the
hoisting.Start hoisting the mast by winching the stepping line. The
two persons that have lifted the mast on take one forestay each to
be able to steer the mast during the hoist and at the end of the hoist,
when the mast passes the vertical line, the stays can be used as a
break so that the mast falls gently into position.

42
22 During the hoist keep an eye on/make sure:
- That the mast foot slides on the mast knob properly.
- To not get an override.
- That no one is standing directly under the mast.
- To steer the mast, using the forestays, so that the
mast goes straight up.
- That the boom loops are not sliding off.

23 When the mast is in position, tighten up the stepping line and tie it
off around the winch.

43
 24 Move the side stays to the chain plate of the respective side, lash
them with five laps and tension them. They should be lashed as the
for stays, described in Point 3.

The stepping line must be tied off properly before

IMPORTANT! the side stays can be moved.

25 With the side stays and mast secure, the stepping line can be

removed and the main sheet block on the boom can be connected to
the traveler car.

TIP! Use cable ties to make sure that the shackles that connect the two main sheet blocks
to the traveler car and double boom loop doesn’t come off.

44
26 Run the main halyard through the main halyard block on the
starboard side of the mast foot. Make sure the halyard runs on the
outside of the rotation arm.

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 BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY
PARTS AND TOOLS

PARTS INCLUDED

1 Bowsprit 4 Strut bolts (Incl. washers)

2 Connection pin bowsprit 5 Struts
3 Locking pin strut

46
 4 5
2 3
1

TOOLS INCLUDED

1 Brush 4 8mm allen socket

2 Grease 5 Torque wrench

3 Allen key set

47
 BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTIONS

1 Attach the bowsprit to the main beam with the bow sprit connec-
tion pin and lock it off with the chock cord.

2 Hoist the bowsprit using the gennaker halyard so that the end of
the bowsprit is higher then where it will end up when connected to
the struts.

48
3 Connect the struts to the bowsprit by lowering the bowsprit and
guide the struts into it.

4 Put the strut pins in to lock the struts to the bowsprit and lock the
pins with the chock cord.

49
 5 Tighten the strut bolts to 20 Nm using a torque wrench.

6 Attach the furling line to the furler. It is recommended to have it

crossed.

50
7 Run the tack line through the clutch on the main beam and do a
stop knot in the end.

8 Attach top swivel to gennaker halyard.

51
 RUDDER ASSEMBLY
PARTS AND TOOLS

5
2

4
1

PARTS INCLUDED

1 Starboard rudder 4 Pins drop nose

2 Port rudder 5 Tiller bar (Incl. extensions)
3 Rudder pins (Incl. locking bolts)

52
 1

TOOLS INCLUDED

1 Torx

2 Adjustable spanner

53
 RUDDER ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Line up rudder heads so that the rudder pins can be inserted.

TIP! Keep cover on blade.

2 Put the rudder pins in and tight the locking bolts with the locking
nuts.

54
3 Attach the rudder locking arms to the Dyneema locking loops.

4 Connect the rudders to the the tiller bar using the supplied
drop-nose pins.

55
 RACK ASSEMBLY
PARTS AND TOOLS

PARTS INCLUDED

1 Port rack
2 Starboard rack
3 Rack bolts (Incl. Washers & Locking nuts)

56
 2

1
3

TOOLS INCLUDED

1 Wrench

2 Ratchet spanner

3 19mm socket

57
 RACK ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Start by identifying the starboard and port rack, as they are diffe-
rent. The way to tell is that the two Dyneema lines running between
the inner tube and the footrest should be on the forward end of the
rack.

2 Attach the racks to the respective side of the platform, using

bolts, washers and locking bolts. Make sure no to over tighten the
bolts.

58
3 Attach the tightening line to the main beam, tension the line in the
aft beam and tie off.

4 Remember to tie the racks to the side stays if racks are left
upright.

59
 SAILING PREPARATIONS
PARTS

2
4

8
3 9
5 7
6
1

PARTS INCLUDED

1 2x paddles 6 2x Capsize lines

2 2x mooring lines 7 2x Daggerboard stop line system
3 Main sail loop 8 Towline
4 3x Winch handles 9 4x Fenders
5 2x Safety knifes

60
SAILING PREPARATIONS
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Connect capsize lines by running them through them selves,
around the main beam and from each side so that one always can be
reached in case of a capsize. They should be connected so they are
easy to use!

2 Attach tow line around the main beam on the port side of the
mast. Make sure the tow line is not tied in around the capsize lines!

61
 3 Place the two supplied safety knifes, one under the bowsprit and
second on the trampoline on the back side of the aft beam as shown
I picture.

4 Attach daggerboard stop line system with the loose ends tied
off at the eye bolt on each side and the carabiners in a slider on the
opposite side.

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5 The gennaker luff length should be 15,630 meter, measured
bearing to bearing, with a tension of 40 Kg on the luff.

6 Equip M32 with:

- 3x winch handles
- Main sail loop
- 2x mooring line
- 4x fenders
- 2x paddles

63
 RIG SETTINGS
TOOLS

PARTS INCLUDED

1 Ruler
2 Spinlock Rig Sense RGS/0508

64
RIG SETTINGS
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Check rake by lining up the top of the knot on the main halyard
parallel to the joint between the mast tube and the mast foot. When
this is lined up, tie off the halyard around the mast winch.

2 Mark measuring point 70 mm above the joint on the backside of

the aft beam.

65
 3 Measuring the distance from the measuring mark on the aft beam
to the top of the knot. This distance between mark and knot should
be 480 mm +/- 5 mm.

4 Measure the side stay tension using a Spinlock Rig Sense

RGS/0508. The tension should be 300 Kg. The black sheave on the
gauge should be 1550 mm above the chain plate pin for accurate
tuning.

66
Setting the rig if the rake is too far forward.

1 Make sure that the rig is centered in the transverse direction,

using the gennaker halyard. Lock the halyard off with the clutch and
measure the distance between the stainless pin and a reference
point on the halyard. Make sure that the distance is the same for
both starboard and port.

2 Ease off front stays so that the rig ends up centred.

67
 3 If the side stay tension is above 300 Kg, ease off until desired
tension is achieved.

4 If the side stay tension is lower than 300 Kg, tension the lashing
using the winch.

TIP! To prevent damage to deck and lashing, use a soft shackle with friction ring so that the
lashing does not run over the deck.

68
 5 Make sure that the side stay tension is 300 Kg on both side stays.

Making changes to one side effects the other so it usually takes a

couple of turns tensioning/easing off to get it right.

6 Check rake as described in Check the rig. If correct, the rig is set
for sailing and if not, start from point 1.

69
 Setting the rig if the rake is too far aft.
1 Make sure that the rig is centred in the transverse direction, using

the gennaker halyard. Lock the halyard off with the clutch and mea-
sure the distance between the stainless pin and a reference point on
the halyard. Make sure that the distance is the same for both starbo-
ard and port.

2 Tension the front stays so that the rig ends up centred.

TIP! If it is not possible to tension the front stays due to that the side stay tension is to high,
ease the side stays off to be able to tension front stays.

3 If the side stay tension is above 300 Kg, ease off side stays until

desired tension is achieved.

70
4 If the side stay tension is lower then 300 Kg, tension the side stay
lashing using the winch.

TIP! To prevent damage to deck and lashing, use a soft shackle with friction ring so that the
lashing does not run over the deck.

5 Make sure that the side stay tension is 300 Kg on both side stays.
Making changes to one side effects the other so it usually takes a
couple of turns tensioning/easing off to get it right.

6 Check rake as described in Check the rig. If correct, the rig is set

for sailing and if not, start from point 1.

71
 MAIN HALYARD LOCK
INSTRUCTIONS
Prepare sail for hosting.

1 Insert halyard lock(mast car) into the luff track.

2 Connect main halyard, with the two half hitches facing away from
the mast, to the locking arm on the halyard lock(mast car) by thread
the small main halyard loop pass the two stainless steel rings on one
side to allow the other side of the loop to be threaded. Then move the
loop so that both sides are in between the plates.

3 Put the main sail on the port side of the mast and leave the luff

end on the main beam. This will facilitate hoisting the sail.

4 Run the big main halyard loop through the headboard of the main
sail and then hang it on to the locking arm, with each end of the loop
between the stainless steel rings. Slide the luff into the track and
hoist approximately 200 mm to prevent damage to the halyard lock
between preparing and hoisting.

TIP! Lube the luff of the main sail for an easier hoist.

72
Hoisting the sail.

1 Hoist the sail by man power. Do not put the halyard on any winch
as this can increase the risk of damage mast, sail or halyard lock.
2 Hoist past the lock you want to engage (top, reef 1 or reef 2) and
keep tension when it is passed.
3 Rotate the mast using the rotation arm while keeping tension on
the halyard. This is to create friction so that the sail does not slide
down and passes the groove when releasing the main halyard.

4 Release the main halyard completely, meaning that it is complete-

ly slack.
5 Rotate the mast back, shake gently and slowly pull the sail down
until it goes into the groove.
6 The sail is on the lock when the locking arm is in the cut out in the
mast and there is NO tension on the main halyard. If there are any
uncertainties, repeat the procedure until you are sure the sail is in
the lock to prevent any damage to the lock that can occur if the sail
is loaded up without proper locking.
7 Run the Cunningham and tension.

8 If reefing, roll up the excessive sail and secure with a reefing line.

9 Hook on the boom.

73
 If the sail does not lock.

1 Make sure that there is no tension on the main halyard when try-
ing to get the sail to lock.

2 If the sail does not lock in 3 tries, take the sail all the way down.
Make sure that the main halyard loop is correctly attached with the
knot facing away from the mast and that the loop is outside the two
inner rings on the locking arm.

3 Make sure that the halyard lock(mast car) is not damaged and
that the spring is strong enough.

4 Check that the groove is in good condition.

Unlock the sail

1 Ease off gennaker tack line.

2 Take the main sail clew of the boom.

3 Take the Cunningham tension off but leave in sail.

4 Hoist the sail so that the locking arm is out of the cut out, approx-
imately 50 mm.
5 While having tension on the halyard, pull the sail down using the

Cunningham so that the locking arm is passing the cut out.

6 When the cut out is passed, pull down the sail without having
tension on, but as soon a cut out (reefing points) will be passed, put
tension on halyard and then pull down.

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 NOTES

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NOTES

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INSTRUCTIONS AT: M32WORLD.COM

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