Fitted Gaiter

CE/RS#35

Proudly distributed by The Rain Shed, Inc

The goal here is to deliver a functional and adaptable design trimmed out in such a way that can be easily and afforda-
bly sewn. Size is determined by measurement around your boot cuff since these are form-fitting gaiters. Height of the
gaiters is plotted directly from your own measurements.
Hopefully this pattern will add another type of outdoor gear that you can make easily with complete freedom of choice
regarding material, sizing, color and features.
Features:
 Four sizes fit from lightweight hiking to plas-
tic, double boots.
 All sizes allow the same width and height
adjustment range.
 Form-fitting design is less apt to snag or trip
you up. An important feature particularly
when wearing crampons or skis.
 2” wide, overlapping, Hook and Loop closure
in front
 Is very easy on and off.
 Avoids potential zipper complications in the
future.
 Is very secure & degree of overlap can be
varied to adjust fit.
 Lined Bottom section is neat, durable and
avoids problems of loose threads from unrav-
eling fabric edges.
 Adjustable top webbing band.

 This gaiter pattern design uses readily available fabric,

hardware and webbing.
 However, additional, high-performance design options are described
inside for the extra ambitious Gaiter “Cobbler”.

www.therainshed.com
CONTROLLED EXPOSURE Distributed by 1) 15” is closet to the target for size large so trace off Bottom
pattern piece in Large.
The Rain Shed, Inc.  Fitted Gaiter Pattern 2) The Sizing Table also indicates for size Large to subtract
Definitions & General Directions 7” from measure B to get the height to plot on the Gaiter
• Snip to Stitchline: cut straight into the seam allowance Upper Template. 18" - 7" = 11".
almost, but not quite to the stitchline. Intervals between 3) No sizing is necessary on the two Top Tunnel pieces. They
snips are suggested. This allows curved seams to flow always measure 6" x 24-1/4". Excess is trimmed off later.
smoothly once turned right side out. 4) No sizing is necessary on the four Flap pieces. They al-
• Perimeter Stitch: sew completely around 1/8” from the ways measure 3" x 18-1/2". Excess is trimmed off later.
edge. Marking
• Edgestitch: sew close to the edge of the fabric in what will 1) Trace your size for the Bottom piece and remember to
be the seam allowance. place your pattern pieces on a fold where indicated.
• Topstitching: stitching with right side facing up.
2) Follow instructions on the Gaiter Upper Template for plot-
• Ten stitches per inch should work well for this project.
ting the size and height then trace off a custom pattern
• Use a sharp needle (not a ballpoint).
piece.
• Seam allowances are 1/2” unless otherwise noted.
• Attaching Hook & Loop Fastener strips (Velcro): Perimeter 3) These dimensions are used for the flap and Top Tunnel
Stitch the strip sewing twice over the ends of the strip pieces for all sizes.
where it would tend to pull up. Use a long stitch because
punching too many holes will perforate the backing and
cause tearing along the stitchline.
Sizing
Fitted gaiter should fit fairly snugly
around the ankle; so the size is deter-
mined by a measurement around the cuff
of your boot. Your height is secondary
and each of the four gaiter sizes can be
adjusted to any height. Two tasks here
to get the correct fit: determine what LAYOUT AND CUTTING FOR 56” - 60” WIDE FABRIC
size gaiter you need, and what height to *Mark all pieces with chalk and recheck measurements before
plot on the Gaiter Upper Template. cutting any of the pieces out.
First, Measure the circumference of Upper: All Sizes 2/3 yard Required
your boots just above the ankle, A in
inches and choose a size from the
SIZING Table. (See Size Table.)
Fill in measurement: _____ “

Second, measure the height while

barefoot from the floor to the base of the Bottom Shell: All Sizes 1/3 yard Required
knee in front, B in inches. Take the
measurement and subtract the distance
from the last column of the SIZING Table
for your size.
Fill in Measurement : _____ “
Bottom Lining: All Sizes 1/4 yard Required

Sizing Table
Gaiter Ideal Target for Range of
Adjust. Subtract
Size Measure A for Measure A From Measure B
S 13-1/2" 12-3/4" - 15"3/4 6"3/4 ILLUSTRATIONS KEY
M 14-1/2" 13-3/4" - 16"3/4 6-1/2"
L 15-1/4" 14-1/2" - 16-3/4" 7"3/4-
XL 16"3/4- 15-1/4" - 17-1/2" 7-1/2"

For example: Let’s say ankle circumference, A = 15" and

floor-to-knee height, B = 18".

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 2 of 9 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
GAITER SEWING INSTRUCTIONS C. JOINING UPPERS AND BOTTOMS
You’ll need: Uppers (#2), Bottom Shell (#1) pieces, Bottom
A. UPPER DART Lining (#1) pieces.
You’ll need: Upper (#2) pieces 1) Start with a Bottom Lining piece right
(marked on wrong side). side up. Place Upper piece on top, of
1) Fold one Upper piece right sides
it right side up, and match darted
together along centerline and pin edge to the straight edge of the Bot-
inside the marked triangle. tom Lining. Finally, place a Bottom
2) Stitch along marked dart lines. Shell piece on top, wrong side up,
Backstitch where you run off the matching the same edge as the oth-
folded edge. ers. Center clipmarks of both Bottom
pieces should align with sewn dart on
Upper pieces. Stitch.
3) If your Upper fabric is coated,
trim seam allowance to 1/4".
If your Upper fabric is uncoated, 2) Roll up Upper pieces between other layers
Stitch again in the seam allow- and match the long curved edge of the Shell
ance with a zig zag stitch and trim and Lining Bottoms. Stitch only where
seam allowance to this stitching shown.
(serger users can serge here leav- 3) Snip to stitchline at approximately 1/2" inter-
ing a 1/4" seam allowance). vals along the curved edge of this seam.

4) Turn the Gaiter Assem-

4) Optional: Unfold the Upper bly right side out. Push
piece with the right side up. out and fingerpress
Fold the seam allowance to seams. Open.
one side and Topstitch on the
side 1/8" from the fold. Looks
better but could leak without
sealing the seam.
5) Repeat steps A 1-4} for the other Upper piece.
B. INSTEP STRAPS
You”ll need: Bottom Shell (#1) pieces, 38" - 3/4" webbing
and 2 - 3/4" tablers.
5) Topstitch the top and
1) From the 3/4" webbing, cut two 15" and two 4" pieces. bottom seams of the
Sear ends. lined gaiter bottom, 1/8"
2) Thread the 4" pieces through from the folded edge.
the tablers as shown and tack
in place with a few stitches.
Set aside.
3) Set out both Bottom Shell pieces right side up and center
the 15" webbing pieces on the pattern placement mark
as shown.
a. Alternate sides.
b. End of webbing should 6) Bartack the Gaiter strap and the
extend 1" below the Bot- Hem as shown.
tom piece fabric edge.
c. Edgestitch these in
place.
d. Mark the Bottom pieces
“R” and “L” on the right
sides as shown with
chalk or tape.
Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 3 of 9 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
7) Fold Gaiter in half, lining sides together, 1) Insert a 1-1/2" piece of webbing
and match raw edges. Position so strap through each Gaiter Hook. Fold
is on the bottom half and mark the top webbing back on itself and hold in
Gaiter layer directly over it. place with a few stitches. Set aside.
2) Select the left Gaiter As-
sembly and the left Hook
Flap Assembly. Check your
thread tension and stitch
length after basting.
3) Match the edges shown
right sides together. The
free 1/2" tab should extend
1/2" past the Gaiter edge at
8) Place one Tabler Assembly over the bottom. Pin and stitch.
this mark as shown. The Lower
4) Snip to the stitchline at 1/2"
edge of buckle should just reach
intervals along the curved
bottom edge of Gaiter. Bartack
section of the seam.
twice secure.
5) Go to the toe corner with
9) Repeat steps C1-8} for the other
the Lining side up and the
Gaiter pieces.
Flap Assembly extended.
Fingerpress the snipped
D. FLAPS seam allowance toward the
You’ll need: Flap (#4) pieces, 2 - 18" long pieces of 2” wide Flap Assembly. Fold the
Hook & Loop Fastener. free 1/2" tab over wrong
1) Draw a chalkline 1/2" in, from one long sides together so it is flush with the Gaiter and Hook Fas-
edge, of each of the Flap pieces. tener edge.
6) Fold the Hook Fastener over
2) Place Hook Fastener piece over the toward the Gaiter edge and
right edge of Flap piece (as shown) fingerpress the fold to align
both with right sides facing up. Overlap the Hook Fastener and folded
to the chalkline and leave 1/2" of Flap fabric edges. Edgestitch 1/8"
showing at the end away from you. from that edge only and con-
tinue over its full length.
7) Pull out the basted stitching
3) Baste stitch 3/8" from the edge of the from behind.
Hook Fastener. (Reduce
top thread tension to zero 8) Insert a Gaiter Hook Assem-
and use longest stitch bly between layers and center
length.) it across the Hook Fastener.
The hook should face up and
be as close to the Gaiter edge
4) Repeat with a Loop as possible. Pin.
Fastener piece on the right edge of
Flap piece with right sides facing up.
(as D1-4) 9) Edgestitch the bottom and
5) Do the same with the other Hook & other long edge of the Hook
Loop Fastener pieces except overlap Fastener. The Hook Fastener
the Left edge of Flap piece with the edge should just reach the
1/2" end away from you. previous stitchline. By stitch-
ing “1/8" plus” back from the
6) Mark “R” and ”L” on the right side of
edge, you will also catch the
these second Flap Assemblies with
folded seam underneath in
chalk or tape.
the correct way (as in the
profile view).

E) ATTACHING FLAPS
you’ll need: Flap Assemblies, Gaiter Assemblies, 2 Gaiter
Hooks, 2 - 1-1/2" long pieces of 3/4” webbing.
Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 4 of 9 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
10) Reinforce the Gaiter Hook the remaining Gaiter and
with a small Bartack sewn Loop Flap Assemblies.
from the fabric side. (The instruction sketches
11) Grab the right Gaiter and will be in reverse.)
Hook Flap Assemblies, return to step E3) and repeat E3-
10) with the remaining Hook Fastener Assembly. Remem- 20) Trim the excess
ber, it goes on the edge closest to the strap, not the Flaps where they
tabler and the instruction sketches will be in reverse. extend above the
12) Return to the Left Gaiter and the left Loop Flap Assembly. Gaiter Uppers.
Flip the Gaiter over to the wrong side because the Loop
Flaps face the opposite way as the Hook Flaps.
13) Similar to step E3), match edges shown with the right
side of Flap against F. TOP TUNNELS
Lining of Gaiter. The You’ll need: Top Tunnel (#3) pieces, 2 - 8" pieces of 3/4"
free 1/2" tab should Loop Fastener.
extend 1/2" past the 1) Fold both Top Tunnel pieces lengthwise, wrong sides to-
Gaiter edge at the gether, and Edgestitch the
bottom. Pin and three matched edges as
stitch. shown.
14) Snip the stitchline at 2) Mark the location for but-
1/2" intervals along tonholes on the Top Tun-
the curved section nel pieces with chalk as
of the seam. shown. Buttonholes are 4"
15) Go to the toe corner back from the ends. They
with the Shell side are 1" wide and 1-7/8"
up and the Flap Assembly extended. Finger press the from the raw edges. Sew
snipped seam allowance toward the Flap Assembly. Fold the buttonholes and cut
the free 1/2" tab over wrong sides together so it is flush them open.
with the Gaiter and Loop 3) Mark the Top Tunnel piec-
Fastener edge. es “R” and “L” as shown
16) Fold the Loop Fastener over with chalk or tape.
toward the Gaiter edge 4) Position the Loop Fastener pieces
then fingerpress the fold to 1/4" below and in-line with the but-
align the Loop Fastener and tonholes. They should be 1/4"
folded fabric edges. away from the folds and 2" away
Edgestitch 1/8" from the edge only and continue over its from the raw edges. Perimeter
full length. Stitch both pieces in place.
5) Start with Gaiter and Top Tunnel
17) Pull out the basted stitching pieces for the same side (sketches
from behind. will demonstrate the Right side
18) Edgestitch the bottom and pieces).
other long edge of the Loop
Fastener. The Loop Fasten-
er edge should just reach 6) Place the Top Tunnel pieces over the top Gaiter corner.
the previous stitchline. By The Loop Fastener on the Tunnel faces down against the
stitching “1/8" plus” back wrong side of the gaiter.
from the edge, you will also Extend the Top Tunnel
catch the folded seam un- piece 1/2" beyond the
derneath in the correct way Loop Flap edge and align
(as in the profile view). the raw, not folded, long
edge of the Tunnel with
the gaiter top edge. Pin
near the corner.

19) Repeat steps E 13-18) with

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 5 of 9 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
7) Keeping the top edges aligned, pull the Top Tunnel and 1) Sear all ends of the 24" webbing pieces.
Gaiter top taught, and pin near the middle and the oppo- 2) Stitch a D-ring onto one end
site end, of the Gaiter of each strap with 1" of over-
top. The Top Tunnel will lap.
be too long for all sizes
3) Put a safety pin through the
except XL.
other end of a Strap and in-
8) Trim the excess from the sert it into the open end of a
Top Tunnel piece 1/2" Gaiter Top Tunnel opposite
beyond the other end of the buttonhole. Push through
the Gaiter top. and exit the buttonhole pulling
the D-ring up flush to the Tun-
9) Both ends of the Top Tunnel nel end.
beyond the Gaiter edges 4) Bartack as close to the D-ring
should be folded up approxi- as possible.
mately 1/2" so the are even
5) Stretch out the top of the Gaiter and mark the Tunnel
with the underlying Flap when
Strap at the point where it exits the buttonhole.
sewn.
6) Pull additional strap out of the tunnel, without twisting it,
and place a 4" piece of Hook Fastener on top of the Strap
10) Stitch seam sewing over
and chalk mark as
folded ends as well.
shown. Perimeter
Stitch.
7) Cut off the extra
webbing 1/4" be-
yond the Hook
Fastener, and sear the edge.
11) Flip everything over, extend Top
Tunnel, and finger press seam al- 8) Repeat steps G3-7, with the other strap and Gaiter.
lowance toward the top.
H.USAGE TIPS
1) The following sequence works well for adjusting and fas-
tening the top straps (right gaiter viewed from above).

12) Fold Tunnel

over to the right
side and just
cover the previ-
ous stitchline.
Pin, at least,
near the ends.

13) Topstitch 1/8" away

from the folded edge.
The idea, as with the 2) Instep Straps:
Flaps, is to catch the a. Test strap with your bulkiest boots
underlying folded seam before trimming.
as well. b. Trim strap end at a slant to make
14) Repeat steps F6-13) for the left Gaiter keeping in mind threading easier and sear.
that the illustrations represent the right gaiter. c. Re-thread free end back through
tabler to keep it facing upward and
G. TOP TUNNEL STRAPS away from the ground.
You’ll need: 2 - 4" pieces of the 3/4" Hook Fastener, 2 - 24”
pieces of 3/4" wide Webbing, 2 - 3/4" plastic or metal D-rings,
a safety pin.

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 6 of 9 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
Options for the Extra Ambitious: What Fabric To Use?
 Use neoprene straps and a “tongue-style” buckle for the Bottom Shell
Instep Straps. Neoprene The Bottom Shells are straightforward. Use something waterproof
strapping does not freeze and relatively tough. How tough, and stiff, is up to you. Cordura
and is very. Durable but it is works well but anything from Packcloth to Ballistics nylon is possi-
not available everywhere ble. If you use fabric heavier than 1000 denier Cordura, you may
and is expensive. Sources consider cutting the hook & Loop Flap pieces out of something
are used crampon straps or more flexible to reduce bulk.
simply neoprene accessory Bottom Lining
straps from mountain sports Lighter weight than the Bottom Shell. A wide range of waterproof
shops. or water repellent fabrics will work as long as they aren’t too flim-
sy (it rubs against your boot hardware) and doesn’t absorb water.
Packcloth is good or any tightly-woven synthetic weighing be-
 Use a “Pop-Riveter” to at- tween 4 and 8 ounces per square yard (approx. 200 to 430 deni-
tach the neoprene because er).
it is difficult to sew. A good Uppers
hardware store should be For Waterproof uppers, it’s tough to beat the performance of a
able to supple the tool and “waterproof-breathable” fabric in a three layer construction. The
tiny washers that fit snugly three-layer construction has a textured, protective mesh laminat-
over the rivet shafts. ed to the inside as well. These three-layer laminates are easier to
sew, the inside feels better and promotes evaporation, and they
are tougher than “two-layer”. Two-layer “waterproof-breathable”
 A Pop-Riveter can also be used to attach a laminates may be used. We suggested lining the uppers to pro-
hiking boot-style “speed Hook” on the Gaiter tect and prolong the life of the fabric from abrasion.
front for a stronger lace hook. Most shoe
For those needing only water repellent uppers, durability be-
repair shops have these. They’re indestructi- comes the most important thing. A tightly woven nylon or syn-
ble, and fit over the fattest of laces. thetic blend that weighs 3+ ounces per square yard and has a
water repellent finish will do nicely.
 Some skiers my want to in- Materials Required
stall a d-ring near the front of
each Gaiter for runaway strap Amounts are for 56-60" (140-150cm) wide fabrics.
clips. No problem, two small Upper Shell Fabric:
Ds and a bit of webbing to All sizes ........... 2/3 yd ............. (.60 m)
slip them in under the Loop Bottom Shell Fabric:
Fastener Flap seam is all you
need. Bartack over the at- All sizes ........... 1/3 yd ............. (.30 m)
tachment point. Bottom Lining Fabric:
All sizes .......... 1/4 yd ............. (.23 m)
Notions:
2-1/2 yds ........ 3/4" Webbing
1 yd ................ 2" Hook & Loop fastener
1/2 yd ............. 3/4" Loop fastener
Original Controlled Exposure Pattern currently distributed by 1/4 yd ............. 3/4" Hook fastener
The Rain Shed, Inc. 2 .................... 3/4" Tablers
© 1987 The Rain Shed Inc., reprinted 2015 2 .................... 3/4" D-rings
2 .................... 3/4" Gaiter Hooks
The Rain Shed Inc.
250 Broadalbin St SW, #110 Gaiter Measured Boot Cuff Circumference
Albany, OR 97321
Size Inches (will fit) CM (will fit)
www.therainshed.com
Email: [email protected] S 13-1/2 12-3/4—15 33.9 32—37.7
Toll-free in US & Canada 1-877-890-0333
M 14-1/2 13-3/4—16 36.5 34.6—40.2
Local 541-791-8900
Fax 541-967-5063 L 15-1/4 14-1/2-16-3/4 38.3 36.5—42.1
XL 16 15-1/4-17-1/2 40.2 38.3—44

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 7 of 9 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
 How to Plot Your Measurement on the Template is the bottom of the pattern piece.
Let’s follow through with the example measurements for a size L and 3) Where this line crosses the dart lines, mark the dart lines 1/2” higher.
height of 18” from the instructions: 4) With a straight edge, draw two angled lines extending from “Top of Dart”
Measure B 18” - correction for size L from Sizing Table 7” = 11” to these points 1/2” above your bottom line.
1) Mark 11” down on the size L lines on both sides. 5) Trace off a custom pattern piece and save this template for future gait-
2) Use a straight edge and connect marks horizontally across template. This ers. Remember to mark dart on the wrong side of your fabric pieces.

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 8 of 13

Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
 CONTROLLED EXPOSURE #35

The Rain Shed, Inc.

—

2” Square
Verify Accuracy
of print out.

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 9 of13 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
 Verify Rule Measurement

Tape pieces together.

to an Actual Rule.

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 10 of 13 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
 Verify Rule Measurement

Tape pieces together.

to an Actual Rule.

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 11 of 13 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
 Verify Rule Measurement

Tape pieces together.

to an Actual Rule.

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 12 of 13 Fitted Gaiter #35 - Controlled Exposure/The Rain Shed Inc. - www.therainshed.com
 How to Plot Your Measurement on the Template
Let’s follow through with the example measurements for a size L and
height of 18” from the instructions:
Measure B 18” - correction for size L from Sizing Table 7” = 11”
1) Mark 11” down on the size L lines on both sides.
2) Use a straight edge and connect marks horizontally across tem-
plate. This is the bottom of the pattern piece.
3) Where this line crosses the dart lines, mark the dart lines 1/2”
higher.
4) With a straight edge, draw two angled lines extending from “Top
of Dart” to these points 1/2” above your bottom line.
5) Trace off a custom pattern piece and save this template for future
gaiters. Remember to mark dart on the wrong side of your fabric
pieces.

Reproduction is forbidden. Not for production. Page 13 of 13

Fitted Gaiter #35 - The Rain Shed
Verify Rule Measurement
to an Actual Rule.

Tape pieces together.