Tree Felling: Best Practice Guidelines For
Tree Felling: Best Practice Guidelines For
Vision,knowledge,performance
competenz.org.nz
He Mihi
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Kia Kaha, kia manawanui Be strong, be steadfast.
ISBN 0-9582194-3-5
Best Practice Guidelines
for
Tree Felling
Contents
Introduction 1
Purpose of these guidelines 1
How to use these Guidelines 1
Acknowledgments 2
About best practice training material 2
Motor-manual trimming 13
Quality 14
Job prescriptions 14
Operational planning 15
Planning and stand assessment 15
Warning signs 15
Rules 15
Acceptable signs 15
Placement of signs 16
Work area safety 16
Entering tree felling areas 17
Opening a felling face 17
Operational hazards 21
Chainsaw hazards 22
Tree and felling hazards 24
Windthrow hazards 25
Trimming hazards 26
Machine hazards 27
Windthrow procedures 39
Butting off an unstable root plate 40
Butting off a stable root plate 40
Felling broken trees 41
Felling wrenched trees 41
Trimming procedures 42
Lever limbing method 42
Trimming large branches 43
Cross-cutting stems in tension and compression 43
Cross-cutting an overhung log 43
Cross-cutting a suspended log 43
Excavator-assisted felling 50
Hauler-assisted felling 50
Work technique 52
General technique 52
Felling large and leaning trees 53
Glossary of terms 54
Index to unit standards 57
Introduction
The Glossary of Terms gives the meaning of terms used throughout these guidelines.
The Index to Unit Standards allows the reader to locate information related directly to the Unit Standards
listed.
Introduction 1
Acknowledgements
FITEC acknowledges the assistance of the Occupational Safety and Health Service, Liro Forestry Solutions,
and numerous forest industry trainers, forestry contractors, and forest company staff in the development of
these Best Practice Guidelines.
2 Introduction
Tree felling basics
Felling objectives
The objectives of tree felling are to:
• Safely and effectively fell the tree • Minimise damage to the tree and its surroundings.
The felling direction can affect extraction efficiency. If stems have to be turned during breakout or pulled
head first (head pulled), the extraction speed will slow down.
Poor felling may also lead to felling damage. This may include breakage, slabbing of the butt, and drawwood.
All have the potential to reduce the value of the tree. Other objectives of felling are related specifically to
thinning operations.
Silvicultural thinning requires the removal of unwanted trees from the stand. This is done at an early age
to improve the form, growth, and value of the crop trees.
Fallers should avoid damage to the remaining crop trees as this may reduce their value.
Trees are generally less than 15 m in height. No trimming is required but all trees must be completely
severed from the stump. Felled trees must not be left hung up in crop trees.
Production thinning requires the removal of unwanted trees from the stand at mid-rotation. This will:
• Improve the growth and value of the crop trees
• Provide some income for the forest owner.
Some boundaries have more sensitivity or risk, than others eg: fences dividing land ownership and powerlines.
The boundaries of the block need to be checked during the planning phase. This will ensure that the different
issues relating to the boundaries can be managed properly.
Operational planning
Thorough planning of the felling operation will ensure it is productive, safe, and profitable. If it is not adequately
planned, problems may arise which are difficult to fix.
In many cases, roads and landings will already be formed. This will determine where the trees will be
extracted to.
The contractor and the fallers will do much of this planning when they first walk the block. They will decide
where to start felling and what hazards exist. It is important to document this information and ensure that
everyone involved is clear about what is required.
Terrain
Knowing the lie of the land (topography) is critical for good felling. This will often dictate the extraction
direction and, therefore, the felling direction.
Topography will have been one of the key factors in determining where roads and landings are located.
During planning and felling consider the following:
• As trees tend to lean downhill, you must typically fell from the bottom of the hill to the top.
• Avoid felling across stumps, other trees, gullies, and ridges as this increases breakage.
• Be prepared to change your felling direction to suit subtle topography changes.
Breakage
Breaking or shattering of trees during felling results in:
• Loss of value for the forest owner due to fewer
logmaking choices and more short pieces left
behind
• Loss of earnings for the contractor due to slower
extraction.
Windthrow
Windthrown trees pose extra difficulties for falling and
extraction. Often trees are blown down (uprooted with
the root plate still attached); blown over but still
standing (wrenched); or the stems broken. Trees can
be crossed over each other.
Windthrown trees can have extreme and complex
tension and compression forces within them. This
makes the job of identifying safe positions and cuts
more difficult. As a result, only highly experienced
fallers should work in windthrow.
Because of the potential hazards, safety becomes
the number one aim. Production and felling quality
will become less important, with logging crews often
paid a daily rate instead of a volume rate. Machines
for felling or assisted felling are used where possible. Windthrown trees
Weather
Wind strength and direction, rain, and snow will affect tree felling.
Felling in strong winds is dangerous, especially if the wind direction is across or opposed to the felling
direction.
Strong winds may cause loose material to fall, such as dead branches. The wind may also cause trees being
felled to sit back on the back cut.
Very heavy rain and snow may also make felling dangerous, as visibility and footing are affected. Felling in
thunderstorms is not safe, as there may be strong unpredictable wind gusts and lightning strikes.
Processing at landings may be either manual or mechanised. The volume of wood that can be processed
varies substantially between methods and will affect the planning of the felling process.
The volume of timber felled at any one time will need to be matched with extraction and processing capabilities.
Felling too few trees may result in a reduction in extraction productivity and profit for the contractor.
Environmental constraints
Felling of trees can damage native vegetation and leave tree tops in gullies and watercourses. Resource
Consent requirements may limit certain felling and trimming activities within an area. Directional felling to
avoid streams may be specified.
• Tool belt
Wedges
Wedges are an integral part of a faller’s kit. They are
used to:
• Stop the tree sitting back once the felling cuts have
been completed
• Assist felling trees in a desired direction
• Alter the tree’s balance and weight distribution A selection of felling equipment
when felling trees against their natural lean
• Keep the saw cut open when crosscutting logs.
Felling levers
When working in small trees, such as production
thinnings, a felling lever with a cant hook can be
useful for directional falling or downing hang-ups.
When felling, the tongue on the end of the bar can
be set instead of a wedge and leverage applied by
lifting the bar up.
If a small tree is hung up, the cant hook can be used
to down the hang-up by rolling the stem away from
the tree in which it is caught.
Use of a felling lever
Mechanised felling
A range of tracked or wheeled machines can perform mechanical harvesting. In New Zealand, excavators
and purpose-built level swing machine bases are commonly used. These can be fitted with a range of
different felling heads.
Mechanised felling operations are often limited by the slope of the ground, soil conditions, and tree size. The
excavator-based machines are limited to easier terrain (maximum 22°). The level swing machine may be
permitted to work on steeper slopes (up to 27°).
Thinning:
• Hultdins F560 (TH)
Wing cut
Wing cuts reduce the amount of felling damage to
the valuable pruned butt log. They are short near-
vertical cuts placed into the edge of the hingewood.
They are put in after the scarf cut has been completed
but before the back cut.
If the tree being felled has heavy side lean, two wing
cuts should not be used as they result in some 10%
to 15% loss in hingewood strength. Only make a wing
cut on the downhill side of the hingewood.
Quality
Tree felling is an important phase in the logging process. Good felling and trimming techniques will maximise
volume recovery and the value of the stand by:
• Keeping stumps low
• Reducing breakage
• Reducing stem damage (such as slabbing and draw wood)
• Presenting the stem for efficient extraction
• Reducing the chance of a drag fouling in a cable logging operation
• Reducing the need for re-trimming.
Job prescriptions
The job prescription is a written instruction from the forest owner to the harvesting contractor. It details the
requirements for the felling operation as determined during the harvest planning process.
The job prescription may contain the following information:
• Compartment and setting locations
• A map showing road and landing locations
• Crop characteristics, including:
species average piece size, height, and diameter
stocking predicted breakage and pulp
• Environmentally sensitive areas including:
streams boundaries
historic or cultural sites
• Other felling hazards including:
cliffs tomos
powerlines fences
• Resource Consent
• Terrain and soil classification.
It is important that all members of the crew are briefed on the prescription, especially parts applying to felling
and extraction.
The job prescription provides the framework for the contractor’s operational planning.
The person in charge of felling operations shall exercise control and supervision of the work to ensure that
safety precautions are being observed.
The fallers and the person in charge of the operation shall identify hazards specific to the site.
All dead or defective trees that could cause danger to persons using roads, skids, or tracks shall be felled
before extraction operations begin. This includes trees that have been disturbed by road or skid construction.
Forest managers should be informed when and where a new operation or stand harvest is commencing.
Warning signs
Rules
• Signs warning of work in progress shall be Temporary signs shall be removed or covered
displayed when work is on or near public or when no longer valid or when work has ceased.
private roads or adjacent to boundaries. • Where there is a road control authority, formal
authorisation shall be obtained and compliance
• Planning of appropriate warning methods shall
made with any conditions set by the authority
be prepared as part of hazard management.
before any signs warning of operations are
• Permanent signs shall comply with the Manual placed and work commences.
of Traffic Signs and Marking, published by
Transit New Zealand/LTSA.
Note that Transit jurisdiction covers all private forest roads that can be accessed by the public. If a road
cannot be accessed by the public, the forest owners are considered the road control authority, and their
policies apply.
Acceptable Signs
According to the Transit code, the following signs may be used.
• Advance warning signs
If it is necessary for there to be more than one person at the tree with the faller:
• Only one person shall be making felling cuts at one time
• Only one chainsaw shall be working while the felling cuts are being made
• The person not making the felling cuts must be behind the tree being felled, positioned up the escape
route in full view of the faller and able to see the top of the tree.
Health hazards
Tree felling is a very physically demanding job. To maintain peak performance and prevent accidents through
fatigue, operators must take special care of their bodies. This includes their physical fitness, diet, water
intake, personal hygiene, and sleep. How you treat your body away from work affects your performance at
work.
Lack of rest/sleep • Build short frequent rest breaks into your work routine.
Early starts • Ensure each night you replace the sleep you lose in the
morning. If you get up earlier go to bed earlier.
• Once early starts have finished, allow time for your body
to recover.
Lack of nutrition • Start each day with a high carbohydrate breakfast like
(most accidents occur porridge, cereal, toast, bananas, pasta, or potatoes.
between 9 and 11 a.m. when
• Eat high protein foods like lean meat, chicken, eggs,
you are tired and running
low on energy, so stop and milk, and cheese at night.
have a smoko break) • Eat at the start of a break, and rest to allow digestion.
• Always eat a high-carbohydrate snack straight after
work.
Early over-exertion/sprains and • Start each day with a 10–15 minute warm-up and
strains then a few stretches.
• Start the day slowly until muscles are warmed up properly.
• If starting a new job, allow time for the body to get used to
it before working flat out.
• Do some stretches at the end of the day.
• Take particular care when starting back at work after the
holidays.
Lack of hygiene/infection • Clean and dress any cuts or scratches received on the
job as soon as possible and keep them covered.
• Make sure the first aid kit is kept fully stocked.
• Carry water and soap on the job to wash hands before
smokos.
• Bath or shower every night.
• Eat a balanced diet to keep your body healthy.
• Wear clean clothes against the skin every day.
Dehydration/heat exhaustion • Regularly drink fluids at a rate of 0.5 litres per hour and
up to 1 litre per hour in hot conditions.
• Drink before you feel thirsty.
• Do not drink fluids, like soft drinks and cordials, that have
more than 8% carbohydrate content.
• Drink high carbohydrate drinks after work to replace
energy levels.
• Drink plenty of water at night to recharge the body.
• Drink a couple of glasses of water before leaving for
work.
Operational hazards
Operational hazards will be specific to the type of felling operation being undertaken. The following are
operational hazards relating to:
• Chainsaws
• Trees and felling
• Windthrow
• Thinning
• Machines
Moving chainsaw chain • Wear all required protective equipment, and ensure it is
in good condition.
• Use correct stance and work techniques.
• Take appropriate action if low in energy, dehydrated, or
fatigued.
Burns from exhaust/muffler • Keep bare skin away from exhaust and muffler.
Vibration injuries • Ensure the vibration damping mounts on the saw are in
good condition.
A poorly maintained saw • If any part of a saw is not working correctly due to
damage or wear, it should be repaired, replaced or
sharpened.
Loose debris in crown, dead top, • Check tree’s crown before felling.
tangled crowns, vines and rot
• Use a felling assistant/observer.
• Drive down if appropriate.
• Use a machine to pull down hang-up if necessary.
Felling operations • You must not be within two tree lengths of other felling
operations unless you are:
assisting or supervising the faller
training or being trained
positioned up the escape route in full view of the faller
able to see the top of the tree being felled from a safe
position.
behind the tree being felled
• Use clear, prearranged procedures, techniques, and
signals.
Overcut hingewood • Avoid or correct overcuts in the scarf before starting the
back cut.
• If back cut is overcut, tree will not fall where intended —
retreat up the escape route and watch the tree fall.
• Ensure backcut progress is parallel to the scarf.
Slope and/or gound conditions • Clear any obstacles from around the tree before making
any cuts.
• Ensure you have a firm footing before making any
chainsaw cuts.
Attaching strops during machine- • Use a ladder or other stable platform for attaching the
assisted felling strop as high as possible up the tree.
• Do not climb the ladder or machinery wearing spiked
boots — there is an increased risk of falling.
Windthrown trees (blown over or • Use experienced and trained fallers only — windthrow
broken) felling is more hazardous than normal felling operations.
• Always endevour to work from the outer edge and
progress in the same direction as the wind throw.
• Approach all trees with caution.
• Assess tree stress carefully and use the approved and
appropriate technique.
• If in doubt, have the tree moved to a safe position by
machine.
• Do not work close to or forward of wrenched trees.
• Use a bar length which allows all cuts to be made from
one side of the tree.
• Have felling aids either on hand or available on site.
• Do not work too far in advance of the extraction machine.
• Work in close cooperation with the extraction machine
operator.
Wrenched trees (still standing) • Allways endevour to work from the outer edge, and
progress in the direction of the windthrow.
• Assess forces in the tree before making any cuts.
• Assess the sability of the rootplate - it may move when
the cuts are made, making footing unstable.
• Consider the likely reaction before making any cuts.
• Minimise scarf depth and be alert to saw jambing.
• Use bore and release cutting techniques.
• Watch for changes in the tree lean during and after
cutting.
• If in doubt about your safety, seek assistance from a
more experianced faller or machine operator.
• Use machine assistance to eliminate or minimise risk.
Tree movement • Assess forces in the stem and branches before trimming.
• Trim only on the safe side of the stem or branch.
• Do not trim on slopes where the stem may move
downhill when cut.
• If deemed unstable, trim only on the uphill side of the
stem.
• If in doubt, do not attempt to trim the tree.
Ground hindrance (ground • Clear around where you plan to cut to provide an escape
vegetation, slash) path and secure footing, and reduce the risk of kickback.
• Trim while standing on the top of the stem only where
necessary.
• Do not work from the top of a stem over 1.5 m off the
ground.
Stem or branches under tension • Assess the degree of tension before making relieving
cuts.
• Cut the compression side first — assess the degree of
tension from the tendency to bind.
• Always cut from the safe side of the stem or branch.
Elevated stems • Do not work from the top of a stem over 1.5 m off the
ground.
• Wear spiked boots.
• Cut supporting branches progressively to lower the stem
to the ground.
Fallers working with machines • Use clear, prearranged procedures and signals.
• Faller is in control.
• Identify and keep to safe positions.
Poor visibility for machine operator • Machine operator must be aware of your presence
before you go inside the machine’s hazard zone.
• Ensure windows are clean and free of unnecessary
glare.
Machine movement • Unprotected workers must stay clear until the machine
has stopped moving and operator indicates it is safe to
approach.
• Do not get between the felling head and the ground.
Tree movement • Unprotected workers must not be within two tree lengths
of a falling tree. Because many harvesting machines
slew after felling it is not safe to be behind the machine.
• Use a machine of appropriate size and capability for the
job.
Broken saw chain • The chain may break or fly off the bar; stay clear at least
70 m when machine is operating.
Proximity to other workers or • Do not fell trees within two tree lengths of workers or
machines other machines
• Make sure it is safe before felling any trees.
A faller with the required personal protective Many forest owners will specify protective equipment
equipment requirements other than those required by the Code.
Silvicultural thinning
• If the trees are very small (less than 15 cm
diameter), simply cut through the stem in one pass
from the back of the tree, towards the front.
• Keep the cutter bar aligned perpendicular to the
desired direction of fall.
• On slightly larger trees, up to 20 cm diameter, it is
preferable to make a front cut or small scarf
aligned in the direction of fall.
Cutting from the back to the front of the tree
• All trees must be severed from the stump.
Production thinnings
• All trees should be scarfed and back cut.
• Some small-diameter trees require wedging. If the
tree diameter is small, you may not be able get
the wedge into the back cut without hitting the
chain. In this case a split level back cut is
desirable.
• The back cut is made in two halves, with a wedge
being set firmly in the half which is cut first.
• The second half of the back cut then releases the
tree to fall forward.
• If it does not fall, an additional wedge may be set
in the second half of the back cut after the
chainsaw has been removed.
Large trees (where the bar does not go right through the tree)
(1) Cut a conventional scarf according to where you want the tree to fall.
(2) Make the first cut of a quarter-cut back cut.
(3) Insert a wedge into the first quarter-cut and set firmly.
Small trees (where there is a risk of Use a conventional back cut and wedges
hitting the first wedge with the chain)
(1) Cut a conventional scarf according to where you
want the tree to fall.
(2) Start the first cut of a split-level back cut.
(3) When the first cut is completed, insert a wedge
in the back of the tree. Ensure you do not over-
cut the hingewood.
(4) Start the final back cut at the same level but
angled below, and overlapping, the first
(5) Complete the final back cut. Stop your saw, insert
another wedge in the final cut (if necessary) and
drive the wedge(s) home until the tree begins to
Use a split-level back cut and wedges
fall.
Use the following bore and release method to reduce the chance of a heavy-leaning tree splitting:
(1) Cut a conventional scarf slightly higher than you normally would. Make the scarf shallower than normal
if you think the bar will jam.
(2) Remove the bark from the back of the tree so that the solid anchor wood can be gauged. With very
heavy forward-leaners, do this carefully!
(3) Start the bore cut well behind the scarf.
(4) Cut forwards towards the scarf to establish the hinge. The boring cut must be made from both sides of
the tree if the bar is not long enough. Don’t go too far forward or you will risk getting your saw
jammed!
(5) When you have cut to the hingewood, cut towards the back of the tree leaving sufficient wood uncut to
act as an anchor (holding strap).
Felling multi-leader trees Bore and release cuts for a heavy forward-leaning tree
Whenever possible, each leader on a multi-leader
tree should be felled separately in the direction of its
lean.
When the dividing point of the leaders is close enough
to the ground to be reached safely do the following:
(1) Put a normal scarf in the first leader, facing the
direction of lean.
(2) Bore in behind the scarf at the correct height,
leaving the required amount of hingewood.
(3) Cut back towards the dividing point of the
leaders. Slow the back cut near completion, as
the leader will fall very quickly.
(4) When the first leader is safely felled, the
remaining one can be felled normally.
(5) Cut the stump off at ground level.
Note that it may be unsafe to trim the first leader until the second is felled. This will depend on the lean and
condition of the standing leader.
If the dividing point is above shoulder height, then fell the two leaders as one tree.
(1) Scarf the tree deep and wide enough to cover both leaders. It must be made in solid wood without a join
or fault line running through it.
(2) From the safest position, make the back cut evenly towards the holding wood.
(3) Use wedges to ensure that both leaders start falling together.
Do not leave it standing as you work around it — it may fall at any time.
Dead trees or trees with no top have less crown weight than healthy trees, and require slightly different
felling techniques. Without the sail effect of branches the tree will fall very quickly, and without the cushioning
effect of the branches may bounce or slide after hitting the ground.
Check thoroughly to ensure if wedging can be safely undertaken.
Driving dead trees can also pose dangers as the dead tree may break, with the upper stem falling backwards
towards the faller.
Fell directly to the lean. You may need to use a plumb to assess lean.
Follow the steps below when felling these trees: (1) Standing on the safe side of the tree, insert a
scarf cut. Make the scarf cut slightly deeper
than normal.
(2) Watch the top of the tree when putting in the
scarf. The scarf may be higher than normal to
make this easier. The tree may fall at anytime.
(3) Check the condition of the sawdust — is there
sign of rot?
(4) Once the scarf has been cut, remove the scarf
wedge and check it for rot.
(5) Start the back cut.
(6) Place a wedge in the back cut as soon as
practicable to ensure the correct direction of fall.
Use a third wedge to increase lift
Do not drive the wedge hard.
(7) Complete the back cut. Retreat up your escape
route and watch the tree as it falls.
If a split-level back cut is made, a wedge can be inserted into each cut.
If the tree does not fall with one or two wedges (split-level), a third wedge can be inserted in a horizontal bore
cut made below one of the wedges. This doubles the amount of lift that can be obtained.
Tree driving
The term “driving” means pushing a tree over by felling another tree into it. Tree driving may be used to fell
the following trees:
• Hung-up trees • Cut-up trees
• Broken trees • Slightly back-leaning trees.
Driving is most often used to bring down any of the above trees where more conventional methods (described
earlier) have failed.
If you decide that a tree will be driven over before you make any cut to it, you must first prepare the work
areas and escape routes around both trees before making any cuts.
Rules
• Tree driving is not acceptable as a normal felling practice. In the interests of safety it may be used to
help fell difficult or dangerous trees.
• The tree to be driven shall have a holding wedge inserted in the back cut at the earliest opportunity and
prior to any cut on the driving tree.
• The maximum number of trees in a drive without an observer is two (i.e., one on to one).
• A competent person shall act as observer to warn on the movement of trees whenever an initial one-
on-one drive is unsuccessful and a further driving tree is necessary.
• Identify the tension and compression zones and side bind in the stem. These are not always obvious
until you begin cutting.
• Assess how the stem is going to move when tension is released — upwards and/or sideways.
• Assess the direction and how far the root plate is going to move when released.
• When deciding on the cutting sequence, always make a relief cut into the compression wood first. The
depth this cut can be made before the bar begins to pinch indicates the amount of tension to be released.
• When making the relief cut, stand on the safe side of the tree. All cuts must be made from the safest
position.
• Do not stand where there is danger of a root plate or stem springing back, or any branches or slash
moving towards you.
• If tension is severe or dangerous to release by hand, use a machine to pull the tree to a better position
before cutting off the root plate.
• Generally, machines and fallers should work close together, having the machine handy to assist if
necessary.
• Use a machine to bring down standing but bent, leaning, or partially uprooted trees.
• Avoid head pulling as it requires trimming or butting to be carried near or under other wind throws.
• Have a cutter bar that is long enough to complete any cuts from the safe side of the tree.
• Stand sufficiently clear and have an escape route planned when trees or stems are first broken out.
• When working on steep slopes, or where cuts can not be safely completed, leave some holding wood
between the stem and root plate. This will be broken off during the extraction phase. However, this may
increase the risk of rolling root plates during breakout.
• The safest option is usually to extract the tree and root plate to a position where butting off can take place
with minimal risk.
Windthrow procedures 39
Butting off an unstable root plate
Follow the steps below when upward or side
movement in the stem is anticipated and root plate
movement is minimal.
(1) Stand on the safe side of the tree. All cuts will
be made from this side (Position A).
If it is safe to make the cuts from the right-hand side
of the tree (looking up the stem), you will have greater
reach when making the final angled cut.
(2) Make the first cut on the compression side
(bottom) of the stem. Stop the cut when the kerf
Butting off an unstable root plate begins to close on the bar. The depth of this cut
will indicate the amount of tension in the tree.
(3) Move slightly closer to the root plate (Position B) to make the final cut.
(4) Start the final angled cut across the upper side of the stem. Step this final cut down from the first. The
greater the distance between the two cuts, the slower the reaction will be. Angle the final cut at about
35° away from the root plate.
(5) As you near the end of the cut, watch for movement of the stem and root plate.
(6) The final cut through the holding wood is stepped down the stem from the first three cuts (Cut 4). This
allows the stem to move (if necessary) without pinching or grabbing the bar.
(7) As you near the end of the cut, watch for movement of the stem and root plate.
An alternative to Cut 4, is to make an up cut through the holding wood, leaving 3–4 cm on top. This can then
be cut from above as a final cut. Although this reduces draw wood, the release of tension will be very rapid.
If the root plate moves forward (pinching the final cut), a second final cut can be bored below where the first
attempt ended.
40 Windthrow procedures
Felling broken trees
Broken trees are a common result of windthrow. The procedures for broken trees have been described
previously (page 36).
The felling techniques required are similar to those for trees with heavy forward lean (page 34). However,
there are added hazards because of the potentially unstable root plate.
Extreme care should be exercised when felling wrenched trees because of possible movement of the root
plate (upon which you are standing).
If there is doubt about the root plate stability, the tree should be completely uprooted before being butted off.
Windthrow procedures 41
Trimming procedures
(1) Start with the saw on the right hand side of the
stem (working towards the top). Support the
weight of the saw on the stem and use the
forward-running chain.
(2) Tilt the saw on to its left side. Rest the cutter bar
against the stem and use the forward-running
chain.
(3) Support the saw between your thigh and the stem.
Use the backward-running chain.
(4) Move the saw forwards towards the next branch,
supporting it against your thigh. Use the forward-
running chain.
(5) Tilt the saw on to its right side and rest the cutter
bar or saw body on the stem. Use the forward-
running chain with your thumb operating the
throttle.
(6) Support the saw on the stem and use the
backward-running chain. Move forward and start
again at step one.
42 Trimming procedures
Trimming large branches
It may be difficult to use normal limbing methods on large or loaded (under tension) branches.
To avoid pinching the bar it may be necessary to cut the branch in stages or sections, working in towards the
stem from the outer and thinner parts of the branch.
With very large branches it may be necessary to make two cuts, the first being similar to a scarf in tree
felling.
Assess large branches carefully before you cut:
• Cut off any light branches or scrub that are in
your way
• Cut off outer sections of a large limb to reduce
weight or tension
• Remove the main section of the branch.
Be aware that branches can be under tension. They
may move with considerable force when this is
released.
Trimming procedures 43
Assisted felling procedures
Situations may arise where some trees cannot be safely felled by a chainsaw alone.
These trees may include:
• Very large trees • Edge (boundary) trees
• Trees adjacent to environmentally sensitive areas • Hung-up and cut-up trees
• Heavily leaning or very malformed trees
In many cases, these trees need to be felled in the opposite direction to the natural lean or crown weight of
the tree.
In these circumstances there are several techniques that can be used. These include the use of the following
machines to assist in felling:
• Hydraulic tree jacks • Skidder
• Tractor • Excavator
• Cable hauler (or swing yarder)
(4) Insert the jacks, making sure that the top and
bottom jack plates are sitting on wood and not
overlapping on to bark.
(8) Make the final bore cut from the opposite side of the tree (Cut 6). The cutting up procedure is now
complete.
General guidelines
• The faller controls the operation.
• Communication signals between the faller and the machine operator must be clarified before starting the
operation. It is advisable to use helmets equipped with two-way radio communication so both operators
can readily talk to each other.
• Persons other than those directly involved in the operation must be kept at least two tree lengths away.
• Machines must be suitably equipped for the operation. The selection of machinery and method will be
determined by terrain, accessibility, machine availability, and the size, weight distribution, and amount of
lean of trees to be felled.
• Machines must be of sufficient size, and equipped with a ROPS and FOPS canopy.
• Cable tractors and arch, or cable skidders, can be used to winch trees over. They should be sited in a
safe position forward or to one side of the intended felling direction. They can also be used to apply
leverage behind the tree using the top of the arch or fairlead frame to gain extra elevation. Using the
blade to push a tree over is not considered best practice.
Equipment
• The winch rope and strop must be of sufficient length and breaking strength to ensure safe positioning
and purchase to pull the tree in the desired direction when the felling cuts are completed.
• The pulling strop when positioned on the tree should be of sufficient length to hang within reach from the
ground for connecting the winch rope.
• Eye-to-eye splices should not be used in any pulling rope. Joining with splices considerably reduces the
rope’s safe working load.
Winching
• Work out your visual and vocal communication
before you start the work.
• Use sound stumps of sufficient size for the job in The bight in the winch rope
hand.
• Strops used on stumps should be at least 1.5 times the safe working load (SWL) of the pulling rope and
should be notched so they do not slip off.
• Machines used must have sufficient weight and winching power to control the tree to be felled. They
should be equipped with ROPS and FOPS to protect the operator from roll over or falling objects.
• Make sure all the equipment you need is on site.
Hauler-assisted felling
On very steep terrain, the hauler may be the only machine with enough power to assist with felling. The most
common method of pulling over trees with a hauler is by direct stropping.
• Work area safety requirements are much the same as for previously discussed types of felling operations:
Determine the machine’s work zone (70 m to 100 m)
Check that there are no other persons, children, or animals in the work area
Set agreed working procedure with other members of the crew. Do not change these without telling
others
Before each period of operation check the correct functioning of controls, instruments, and safety
equipment
Stop the machine immediately someone enters the safety zone
The safety zone for felling is two tree lengths (approximately 70 m).
• Do not work in adverse weather conditions such as high winds, heavy rain, or snow.
• Always ensure you have a clear work area where the machine is on stable ground.
• Make your way carefully on uneven, sloping, or unstable ground.
• Check for hazards in the area — such as electricity or telecommunication cables. If in doubt, seek advice
from the controlling authority. The machine should stay at least 5 m away from power lines.
• Always check for any material such as branches or tops which may dislodge and fall on to the machine
as the tree falls.
• The operator should be in radio contact with other parts of the operation (extraction and landing).
• Never leave the boom or felling head suspended.
• Never pass the head or boom over another machine or person.
Work technique
The work technique will vary with the type of machine being used, depending on whether it is a disc or bar
saw and whether the head is fixed to the boom or has a rotator.
General technique
(1) Clear scrub away from around tree for better vision and to avoid machine damage.
(2) Remove lower branches on stem if necessary.
Glossary of terms 55
Glossary of terms (cont . . .)
Scarf Notch cut in tree to establish its direction of fall
Setting Proportion of a compartment or stand logged to one landing
Sit back Tree which settles back over the back cut
Skidder Rubber-tyred or sometimes tracked machine for ground hauling stems and logs
Skyline In cable logging, the rope between the spar and the tailhold along which the
carriage travels; it provides lift from the ground for the stems being extracted
Slab (slabbing) Splitting of wood in the butt log during felling or bucking which damages the log
and reduces value
Slash Branches, bark, tops, heads, broken logs, and dead wood left on the ground
after logging
Snag Dead or dying trees which are still standing
Spar Pole supported by guylines which supports the lines of a cable system
Stand Term for a designated area of forest with specific characteristics (usually by age)
Stem Trunk of a tree from stump to tip
Stocking Number of stems per hectare
Strop Short length of wire rope or chain with connecting device or hook which forms a
noose around the stem. The strop is connected to the main inhaul rope of the
extraction machine
Stump The base of a tree and its roots, left in the ground after felling
Stump height The distance from the ground on the uphill side of the stump to the top of the
stump
Swing yarder Cable logging machine that can swing the boom around from side to side whilst
operating the haul ropes
Tailhold The object to which a tail rope block or skyline is attached can be a stump or a
heavy machine (bulldozer or excavator)
Tail rope A rope on a hauler used to pull the main rope, butt rigging, and/or carriage out to
stems to be extracted
Tension A pulling force
Tension wood Where a tree or log bends outwards. Can result in splitting or sudden movement
of the tree or log if not cut correctly
Thinning Felling selected trees in a stand to a prescribed pattern and stocking, to waste or
for extraction
Tie back Rope used to attach machine to an anchor point, usually a stump
Top cut The upper cut, usually angled, of a scarf
Undergrowth Layer of vegetation growing under the canopy of crop trees
Uproot Tree blown or pushed over with the stump and roots still attached
Wedge Tapered plastic, steel, or aluminium alloy tool which is driven into a back cut by a
hammer to prevent the tree from sitting back on the back cut, or to force it towards
the desired direction of fall
Winch A powered drum used to wind rope in or out
Windthrow Trees blown down by the wind. Stems have been snapped or the rootplate has
rotated out of the ground.
Wind wrenched Trees blown over by the wind, but still standing. Stems may be severely bent
Wing cuts Small cuts made beside the scarf to reduce the amount of slabbing (butt damage)
when trees are felled
Yarder see swing yarder
56 Glossary of terms
Index to unit standards
Unit Page Numbers
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E tipu, e awhi, e tu. Grow, embrace, stand tall.
Vision,knowledge,performance
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