PATTERNS

Patterns are available not only for clothes,

but for a whole range of crafts and soft
furnishing projects. When using a paper
pattern to create a garment, you’ll need
to take your body measurements so that
you can compare them to those of the
pattern. The pattern may then have to be
altered prior to cutting out your fabric. It is
always a good idea to test out a pattern
in calico before using the real fabric—this
is known as making a toile. The toile will
help you analyze the fit and whether or
not the style chosen suits your figure type.
The final step is to pin the pattern on the
fabric, cut out the pieces, and transfer all
the marks from the pattern to the fabric.
 58 TOOLS

Paper patterns are available for clothing, crafts, and home

READING furnishings. A pattern has three main components: the

envelope, the pattern, and the instructions. The envelope
gives an illustration of the item that can be made from the

PATTERNS contents, together with fabric suggestions and requirements.

The pattern sheets inside the envelope are normally printed
on tissue and contain a wealth of information, while the
instructions tell you how to construct the item.
TOOLS

The envelope front illustrates the finished garment or item that can be made from the contents of the
Reading envelope. This may be a line drawing or a photograph. The different versions are known as views. On
the reverse of the envelope, there is usually an illustration of the back view and the standard body
a pattern measurement chart that has been used for this pattern, plus a chart that will help you purchase the
correct amount of fabric for each view. Suitable fabrics are also suggested alongside “notions,” or
envelope haberdashery, which are all the bits and pieces you need to complete the project.

List of pattern sizes in

Number of Description of garment imperial and metric Suggested fabrics
pattern pieces or item, giving details of suitable for garment Notions required
measurements for bust, for each view
style and different views waist, and hips in each size or item as well as
Code number included in pattern unsuitable fabrics
for ordering

MISSES’ UNLINED JACKET, SKIRT, SHORTS, AND PANTS. FABRICS: Jacket, skirt, shorts, and pants: wool crepe, soft cottons, Use nap yardages/layouts for shaded, pile, or one-way design fabrics.

5678 Unlined, semifitted, V-neck jacket has short sleeves, front buttons,
optional waistline darts, and optional breast pocket. Straight skirt,
above mid-knee, and pants or shorts with straight legs, have
sheeting, linen, silk, silk types, and lightweight woollens. Skirt, shorts,
and pants also challis, jacquards, and crepe.
Unsuitable for fabrics printed with obvious diagonals. Allow extra
*with nap. ** without nap
NOTIONS: Thread. Jacket: three 7 ⁄ 8 in (1.2 cm) buttons; 1 ⁄ 4 in
(6 mm) shoulder pads. Skirt, pants: pkg of 1 1 ⁄ 4 in (3.2 cm) waistband
15 PIECES waistband, front pleats, side seam pockets, and back zipper. fabric in order to match plaids, stripes, or one-way design fabrics. interfacing; 7 in (18 cm) zipper; and one hook and eye closure.

IMPERIAL METRIC

Body measurements (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22) Body measurements (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22)
Bust 301 ⁄2 311 ⁄2 321 ⁄2 34 36 38 40 42 44 in Bust 78 80 83 87 92 97 102 107 112 cm
Waist 23 24 25 261 ⁄2 28 30 32 34 37 in Waist 58 61 63.5 66 71 76 81 86 94 cm
Hip 321 ⁄2 331 ⁄2 341 ⁄2 36 38 40 42 44 46 in Hip 81 84 86 91 96.5 102 107 112 117 cm

Fabric needed (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22) Fabric needed (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22)
Jacket 115 cm*/** 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.80 1.80 2.10 2.20 2.20 2.20 m Jacket 45 in*/** 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 2 23 ⁄8 23 ⁄8 23 ⁄8 23 ⁄8 yd
150 cm*/** 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.40 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.80 1.80 m 60 in*/** 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 11 ⁄2 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 2 yd
Interfacing 1 m of 55–90 cm lightweight fusible or non-fusible Interfacing 11 ⁄8 yd of 22–36 in lightweight fusible or non-fusible
A A
Skirt A 115 cm*/** 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 2 m Skirt A 45 in*/** 13 ⁄4 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 2 2 2 2 21 ⁄8 yd
150 cm*/** 1.2 1.2 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.4 1.5 m 60 in*/** 11 ⁄4 11 ⁄4 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 11 ⁄2 11 ⁄2 15 ⁄8 yd
Shorts B 115 cm*/** 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 2 m Shorts B 45 in*/** 13 ⁄4 13 ⁄4 13 ⁄4 13 ⁄4 2 2 2 2 21 ⁄8 yd
150 cm*/** 1.2 1.2 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.4 1.5 m 60 in*/** 11 ⁄4 11 ⁄4 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 11 ⁄2 11 ⁄2 15 ⁄8 yd
Pants B 115 cm*/** 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.7 2.7 m Pants B 45 in*/** 25 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 27 ⁄8 27 ⁄8 yd
150 cm* 2 2 2 2 2.1 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.3 m 60 in* 21 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 21 ⁄4 21 ⁄4 23 ⁄8 21 ⁄2 21 ⁄2 yd
150 cm** 1.6 1.6 1.8 2 2 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.3 m 60 in ** 13 ⁄4 13 ⁄4 17 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 21 ⁄4 23⁄8 21 ⁄2 21 ⁄2 yd

B B
Garment measurements (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22) Garment measurements (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22)
Jacket bust 92 94.5 97 101 106 111 116 121 126 cm Jacket bust 361 ⁄4 371 ⁄4 381 ⁄4 393 ⁄4 413 ⁄4 433 ⁄4 451 ⁄4 473 ⁄4 493 ⁄4 in
Jacket waist 81 83 86 89.5 94.5 100 105 110 116 cm Jacket waist 313 ⁄4 323 ⁄4 333 ⁄4 351 ⁄4 371 ⁄4 391 ⁄4 411 ⁄4 431 ⁄4 451 ⁄4 in
Jacket back length 73 73.5 74 75 75.5 76 77 77.5 78 cm Jacket back length 283 ⁄4 29 291 ⁄4 291 ⁄2 293 ⁄4 30 301 ⁄4 301 ⁄2 303 ⁄4 in
Skirt A lower edge 99 101 104 106 112 117 122 127 132 cm Skirt A lower edge 39 40 41 42 44 46 48 50 52 in
Skirt A length 61 61 61 63 63 63 65 65 65 cm Skirt A length 24 24 24 243 ⁄4 243 ⁄4 243 ⁄4 251 ⁄2 251 ⁄2 251 ⁄2 in
Shorts B leg width 71 73.5 76 81 86.5 94 99 104 109 cm Shorts B leg width 28 29 30 32 34 37 39 41 43 in
Shorts B side length 49.5 50 51 51.5 52 52.5 53.5 54 54.5 cm Shorts B side length 191 ⁄2 193 ⁄4 20 201 ⁄4 201 ⁄2 203 ⁄4 21 211 ⁄4 211 ⁄2 in
Pants B leg width 53.5 53.5 56 56 58.5 58.5 61 61 63.5 cm Pants B leg width 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 24 25 in
Pants B side length 103 103 103 103 103 103 103 103 103 cm Pants B side length 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2 in

Outline drawing of garment or Chart to follow for required fabric quantity,

item, including back views, with Garment measurements box gives indicating size across top, and chosen view
darts and zipper positions actual size of finished garment and correct width down the side

»» Haberdashery items pp26–27

 READING PATTERNS 59

Most people fall into one of these four basic

Figure figure shapes. Pattern books and envelopes may Pattern
feature these symbols and they can be used to
shapes help you choose suitable patterns for your figure. markings
Each pattern piece will have a series of lines,
dots, and other symbols printed on it. These
THE WEDGE THE TRIANGLE
Upper body (bust and shoulders) Lower body (hips) is larger than symbols are to help you alter the pattern and
is larger than lower body (hips). upper body (bust and shoulders). join the pattern pieces together. The symbols
are universal across all major paper patterns.

THE RECTANGLE THE HOURGLASS

Upper and lower body are of Upper and lower body similar in
similar proportions. proportion with a small, neat waist. Cutting line

} Multi-size
cutting lines

Some patterns contain a garment or craft project } Grainlines

Single-size of one size only. If you are using a single-size
Place-to-fold line
pattern, cut around the tissue on the thick black
patterns cutting line before making any alterations. Alteration lines

Seamline or
Zipper markings Darts are marked Notches are stitching line
indicate length with lines, and usually single Straight arrow
of seam opening sometimes with on front must be placed } Seam allowance
for zipper dots or circles armhole and on straight grain
that match when double on Center front or back
darts are folded back armhole

Positions and } Hem allowance

Hemline
number of
notches on Buttonhole
both sides
should match Combined button
to ensure that and buttonhole
Pattern pieces correct edges
without grainline are joined Button position
have place-to- together
Alteration fold line to be Dart
lines indicate positioned
best place to directly on fold
lengthen or of fabric, parallel Open dart is very wide, Pleat
shorten to selvages Dart cutting line and fabric is cut away
pattern pieces with pattern following Tuck
cutting line
Bust point or hipline

Waist or hipline
Many patterns today have more than one size
Multi-size
}
printed on the tissue. Each size is clearly labeled Markings to be
transferred from
and the cutting lines are marked with a different
patterns type of line for each size.
pattern pieces to the
fabric for matching
or to indicate detail

Where there is Straight arrow to be placed Single notches

one line only, along straight grain of fabric,
it applies to parallel to selvages
all sizes Double notches

} Triple notches

Zipper placement
Where there is a choice of size
lines, desired size line should
Adjustment line be selected and followed

Body measuring pp60–61 Altering patterns pp62–73 Pattern marking pp82–83 »»

 60 TOOLS

Accurate body measurements are needed to

BODY determine the correct pattern size to use and

if any alterations are required. Pattern sizes are
usually chosen by the hip or bust measurement;

MEASURING for tops follow the bust measurement, but for

skirts or pants use the hip measurement. If you
are choosing a dress pattern, go by whichever
measurement is the largest.
TOOLS

TAKING BODY MEASUREMENTS

Chest
You’ll need a tape measure and ruler as well as a helper Measure above the bust,
for some of the measuring, and a hard chair or stool. high under the arms, keeping
the tape measure flat and
Wear close-fitting clothes such as a leotard and leggings. straight across the back.

Do not wear any shoes.

HOW TO MEASURE YOUR HEIGHT

Most paper patterns are designed for a woman 5 ft 5 in to

5 ft 6 in (165 to 168 cm). If you are shorter or taller than
this you may need to adjust the pattern prior to cutting
Full bust
out your fabric. Make sure you are wearing
a good-fitting bra and
1 Remove your shoes. measure over the fullest
part of the bust. If your cup
2 Stand straight, with your back against the wall. size is in excess of a B, you
will probably need to do
3 Place a ruler flat on your head, touching the wall, and a bust alteration, although
mark the wall at this point. some patterns are now cut
to accommodate larger
4 Step away and measure the distance from the floor cup sizes.
to the marked point.

Waist
This is the measurement
around the smallest part of
your waist. Wrap the tape
around first to find your
natural waist, then measure.

»» Measuring tools and marking aids pp18–19

 BODY MEASURING 61

Hips Back waist

This measurement must be Take this measurement down the
taken around the fullest part center of the back, from the lumpy
of the hips, between the waist bit at the top of the spine, in line with
and legs. the shoulders, to the waist.

High hip Outside leg Inside leg

Take this just below the waist
Measure the side of the leg from the Stand with your legs apart and
and just above the hip bones
waist, over the hip, and straight down measure the inside of one leg from
to give a measurement across
the leg to the ankle bone. the crotch to the ankle bone.
the tummy.

Shoulder
Hold the end of the tape
measure at the base of your
neck (where a necklace
would lie) and measure to
the dent at the end of your
shoulder. To find this dent raise
your arm slightly.

Neck
Measure around the neck—
snugly but not too tight—to
determine collar size.

Arm Crotch
Bend your elbow and place
your hand on your hip, then
depth
measure from the end of Sit upright on a hard chair or stool
the shoulder over the elbow and measure from the waist
to the wrist bone. vertically down to the chair.

Altering patterns pp62–73 Making a toile pp74–75 Marking a hemline p229 »»

 62 TOOLS

It is unlikely that your body measurements will be exactly the

ALTERING same as those of your chosen pattern, so you will need to

alter the pattern to accommodate your figure. Here is how
to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces, and how to make

PATTERNS specific alterations at the bust, waist and hips, shoulders and
back, and to sleeves and pants.

Equipment In addition to scissors and pins or tape, you will need a pencil, an eraser, a ruler that is clearly
marked, and possibly a set square. For many alterations, you will also need pattern paper. After
pinning or taping the piece of pattern tissue to the paper, you can redraw the pattern lines. Trim
TOOLS

away the excess tissue or paper before pinning the pattern pieces to the fabric for cutting out.

Using a multi-size pattern has many advantages, as you can cut it to suit
Easy multi-size your unique individual shape—for example, to accommodate a hip
measurement that may be two sizes different to a waist measurement,
pattern alterations or your not being precisely one size or another.

INDIVIDUAL PATTERN ADJUSTMENT BETWEEN SIZES

To adjust for a wider hip

measurement, when If your body measurements
cutting from one size to fall between two pattern
another, make the lines a sizes, cut carefully between
gentle curve to follow the the two cutting lines for the
contours of the body. different sizes.

If you are shorter or taller, or your arms or legs are shorter or longer, than the
Lengthening and pattern pieces, you will need to adjust the paper pattern prior to cutting
out. There are lines printed on the pattern pieces that will guide you as to
shortening patterns the best places to adjust. However, you will need to compare your body
shape against the pattern. Alter the front and back by the same amount
at the same points, and always check finished lengths.

FOR A FITTED SLEEVE FOR A STRAIGHT SLEEVE FOR A BODICE

On sleeve with Underarm To keep wrist Alter back neck to

elbow shaping, area intact, waist length below
alter by half alter partway bust dart but above
required amount down sleeve, waist (through waist
halfway between or at hem dart if there is one)
elbow and
underarm Bust dart

Elbow
shaping

Waist
Alter by other half
of required amount Wrist
halfway between Waist dart
elbow and wrist
Hem

»» Measuring tools and marking aids pp18–19 Body measuring pp60–61

 ALTERING PATTERNS 63

FOR A FITTED DRESS FOR A PRINCESS DRESS FOR SHORTS

Mark between bust Increase bodice length Dart

and waist to alter back below bust shaping To increase crotch
neck to waist length and above waist depth, alter below
darts and zipper,
Bust dart Bodice but above
crotchline
Waist
Waist Waist

Crotchline
Hipline Hipline

Alter skirt
below hipline

Front To preserve hem

Side front Altering shaping, alter
Alter below Alter below legs partway
hem if not hem
hipline if not affects between crotch
altering at hem altering at and hem
hipline width
Hem
of flare Hem

FOR A SKIRT FOR SHAPED-LEG PANTS FOR STRAIGHT PANTS

Increase crotch
below darts, but
above crotchline
For large Crotchline Crotchline
Hipline
alterations,
divide amount
and alter half
above knee and
half below Alter each leg Make large
Alter below at midpoint alterations
hipline or at to preserve midway down
hem turn-ups or leg to retain
Knee hem shaping leg width

Make small
alterations
at hem
Hem Hem

HOW TO LENGTHEN A PATTERN PIECE

1 First work out

the amount
you want to add. 3 Place some pattern
paper behind the
tissue and spread the
pattern pieces apart
to leave a gap of the
required amount. Make
sure the gap is level
along the cut lines.

2 Cut through
the lengthening
and shortening
lines on the tissue
paper, following
the lines carefully.
4 Pin or tape the
pattern pieces
to the paper.

Making a toile pp74–75 Marking a hemline p229 »»

 64 TOOLS

HOW TO SHORTEN A PATTERN PIECE

1 Work out the amount you want

to lose. Mark this amount above
2 Fold the lengthening
and shortening line on
to the drawn line so the 3 Press with your fingers to
crease the fold sharply,
TOOLS

the lengthening and shortening two lines meet neatly. then secure the fold in the
lines, then draw a line through the pattern piece with tape.
marks using the ruler as a guide.

HOW TO LENGTHEN ACROSS DARTS HOW TO SHORTEN ACROSS DARTS

1 If an adjustment is
required across a
dart, cut and lengthen
the pattern piece.
1 Fold to shorten
the pattern piece.

2 Place pattern paper

behind the tissue,
making sure that the
lines of the dart are
smoothly connected. 2 After shortening
across a dart,
the lines of the dart
may not remain in
line. If this is the case,
re-draw the dart from
dot to dot, using a
3 Tape or pin
in place. ruler to ensure that the
lines are straight.

HOW TO LENGTHEN A HEM EDGE HOW TO SHORTEN A HEM EDGE

1 Place a sheet of
pattern paper under
the tissue at the hem
edge and tape down.

2 Using a ruler as
a guide, add on
the required amount,
marking dots on the
paper first and then
connecting them
with a line. 1 Using a ruler as
a guide, carefully
measure the new 2 Connect the marks
with a line, then cut
hemline from the along the line to remove
original hemline on the surplus tissue.
the pattern piece.

»» Measuring tools and marking aids pp18–19 Body measuring pp60–61

 ALTERING PATTERNS 65

Some paper patterns today feature various cup sizes, but the majority of patterns are cut to accommodate a B cup. If you
Bust are larger than this, you will probably need to adjust your pattern before cutting out. As a general rule, when spreading the
pattern pieces apart, try adjusting by 1⁄4 in (6 mm) per cup size over a B cup. Other pattern alterations can be made for bust
position, raising it higher or lowering it. If the bust dart is altered, the waist dart may also need to be adjusted.

RAISING A BUST DART RAISING A BUST DART INCREASING A BUST DART

SUBSTANTIALLY

1 If you have a high bust, you may

need to raise the point of the darts.
1 If the dart has to be
raised quite a lot, it is
easier to cut a rectangle out 1 Cut the pattern as
indicated, straight
The bust point is nearly always marked through the bust point.
of the part of the pattern
on the pattern pieces. Mark the new
that contains the dart and
bust point on the tissue.
then move it higher.
2 Mark the
new bust
3 Tape securely
in place.
point on the
tissue first.

2 Redraw the
lines of the
dart to this point.

• •

•
•
•

Lengthened
waist dart

3 Use a sheet of pattern

paper to fill in the gap
Raised
waist dart
2 Place the tissue pieces on
pattern paper, then spread
them apart by 1⁄4 in (6 mm) per
Dart redrawn to
original length
and tape in place. cup size over a B cup.

LOWERING A BUST DART LOWERING A BUST DART INCREASING A FRENCH DART

SUBSTANTIALLY

1 Mark the new lower

bust point on your 1 First mark the new bust
point on the tissue. 1 Cut the pattern
piece along the
dart line from the
2 Spread the
tissue apart
and tape to
pattern piece.
side seam, straight pattern paper.
through the bust
2 Cut out a
rectangle from
the pattern piece
point to the center
front line.
that contains the
dart and move it to
the lower position.

• •
•

Shortened
waist dart

3 Fill in the gap with a

sheet of pattern paper Lowered 3 Mark a new dart
point in the center
4 Redraw the dart
2 Redraw the dart stitching lines
to this new lower point. and tape in place. waist dart of where the dart has
been spread.
from the original
seam points.

Making a toile pp74–75 Shaping darts to fit p107 Marking a hemline p229 »»

 66 TOOLS

RAISING A CURVED BUST SEAM LOWERING A CURVED BUST SEAM ADJUSTING A CURVED SEAM

1 Fold a pleat in the

shoulder pattern to bring
the bust point up by the
1 Cut the shoulder pattern
piece and spread apart
by the required amount,
1 For a larger bust, place
a sheet of pattern paper
under the tissue pieces in
required amount. then tape to a sheet of
the bust area.
pattern paper.

Side Center
front front
TOOLS

Side Center
front front

Side Center
front front

2 Cut the pattern on the lengthening

and shortening lines and spread
apart by the same amount (if this is not 2 Add the required
amount to each piece, 3 Redraw the
done, the waist will be raised as well).
2 Make a fold on the
lengthening and
shortening lines by the 3 Redraw the
armhole higher
remembering to split it
between them equally—if
curves on the
paper back into
the seam line.
3 Tape the pieces to pattern paper,
then redraw the armhole lower
by the same measurement.
same amount. by the same amount.
you need to increase by
1
⁄2 in (1.2 cm), add 1⁄4 in
(6 mm) on to each piece.

Most people’s waists and hips are out of proportion when compared to the
Waist and hips measurements of a paper pattern. To alter the pattern to suit your body
shape, adjust the pieces for the waist first and then do the hip pieces.

INCREASING THE WAIST AT A SEAM INCREASING THE WAIST ON A GORED SKIRT

1 On a fitted skirt, increase the

waist at the side seams. Divide
the amount to be increased by four
1 As there are many seams
on a gored skirt, divide
the increase amount by the
as there are four seamlines. number of seamlines.

2 Tape pattern
paper behind the
tissue pieces and add
the increase on at the
waist edge.
2 Tape the tissue
pieces on to
pattern paper and Side front Front
add one of these
small amounts to
each seamline at
3 Draw a new
seamline from
this point, tapering
the waist.

it back into the

skirt side seam.

»» Measuring tools and marking aids pp18–19 Body measuring pp60–61

 ALTERING PATTERNS 67

INCREASING THE WAIST ON INCREASING THE WAIST ON INCREASING THE WAIST ON

A FULL-CIRCLE SKIRT A FITTED DRESS A PRINCESS-LINE DRESS

1 Place a sheet of pattern

1 Place a sheet of
pattern paper under
1 First carefully check the waist
circumference on the pattern
against your body measurements.
paper under the side
seam section of each of
the pattern pieces.
the waist section of each
of the pattern pieces.

Side Center
front front

2 Make the waist larger

by drawing a new, lower
waist stitching line on the
pattern pieces.

3 Be sure to adjust the 2 Add one-quarter

of the total 3 If more increase is
required, the darts 2 Divide the amount to
be increased by the
finished length of the
skirt, if necessary.
increase, redrawing
the waist curve to
can be made narrower
as well.
number of seamlines.
3 Add one of these
smaller amounts
on to each seamline.
straighten it.

DECREASING THE WAIST AT DECREASING THE WAIST ON DECREASING THE WAIST ON

A SEAM A GORED SKIRT A FULL-CIRCLE SKIRT

1 On a straight skirt, divide the

amount to be decreased by
1 Divide the amount to
be decreased by the
number of seamlines.
1 Tape the pattern tissue to
a sheet of pattern paper.
four as there are four seamlines.

Side front Front

2 Mark the amount

of decrease at the
2 Draw the stitching line at the
waist edge on the
pattern pieces. 3 Redraw the side
seams, tapering back
into the pattern line. 2 Take one of these small
amounts off each
waist higher, which will make
the waist smaller.
seamline at the waist.

Making a toile pp74–75 Shaping darts to fit p107 Waistlines pp170–179 »»

 68 TOOLS

DECREASING THE WAIST ON A FITTED DRESS DECREASING THE WAIST ON A PRINCESS-LINE DRESS

1 To reduce the waist

seam, you need to
redraw the side seamline
1 Divide the total
amount of reduction
by the number of
on each pattern piece. seamlines, then mark
Divide the total decrease the required amount
by four. of decrease at the waist
on each pattern piece.
TOOLS

2 Measure one-
quarter of the 2 Redraw the
seams, curving
total amount to
be decreased at 3 Draw a curved line
from above and
below to this point.
each one in to the
marked point.
the waist.
Front Side
front

WIDENING A FITTED SKIRT AT ADJUSTING A FITTED SKIRT FOR ADJUSTING A FITTED SKIRT FOR
THE HIPLINE EXTRA-LARGE HIPS PROMINENT HIPS

1 To increase the hip dimension on a

fitted skirt, divide the amount of the
increase by four. Place the tissue pieces on
1 For an increase over
2 in (5 cm), cut each
pattern piece vertically
1 Place the tissue on pattern paper
and add the required amount
from the waist to the hip point as
pattern paper and increase each side seam between the dart and the for a fitted skirt (see left), tapering
at the hip point by the required amount. side seam. the line back into the seam.

2 Redraw the
seamline
from the hip
increase,
gradually
tapering into
the waistline.
2 Place on
pattern paper
and spread apart
by one-quarter of
the total amount
of increase.

3 It is more flattering to take the

adjustment all the way down the
3 If the waist is to remain
the same, draw in a
second dart to remove the 2 Increase the width of the
dart by the same amount,
skirt, so redraw the seamline straight increase at the waist. redrawing the dart lines to
down from the hip to the hem. the new center point.

»» Measuring tools and marking aids pp18–19 Body measuring pp60–61

 ALTERING PATTERNS 69

ADJUSTING A FITTED SKIRT FOR DECREASING THE HIPLINE ON ADJUSTING THE HIPLINE ON A
A LARGE BOTTOM A FITTED SKIRT GORED SKIRT OR PRINCESS DRESS

1 Cut through the skirt back

pattern piece, vertically 1 Divide the amount to
be reduced by four
and mark the reduction
1 Divide the amount
to be reduced or
added by the number
2 If widening, tape
the pieces of tissue
to pattern paper.
through the dart to the hem.
amount on each pattern of seamlines.
piece at the hipline.

2 Cut across
the hipline,
but not through
the side seam.

3 Spread apart
the tissue on
pattern paper as
2 Redraw the
side seam,
tapering the line
much as needed into the waist and
and tape in place. from the hipline,
drawing straight
down to the hem.
Side Center
front

4 Redraw the
dart.
3 Mark the reduction
or addition at the
hipline on each piece. 4 Redraw the seamlines,
tapering them into the
waist and drawing straight
down to the hem.

MAKING A LARGE INCREASE AT THE HIPLINE ADJUSTING AT THE HIPLINE TO ALLOW FOR
ON A FITTED DRESS A HOLLOW BACK

1 Make a cut into each pattern

piece horizontally just below 1 A hollow back
requires a shorter
center back seam.
the waist by one-quarter of the
total amount to be increased. Draw a line on the
pattern piece across Center back
the hipline, from the seam
center back.

2 Cut vertically
to the hem.
2 Fold along the line
to make a pleat of
the required reduction,
3 Spread the
tissue apart
and tape to a sheet
tapering it to nothing
at the side seam. Tape
in place.
of pattern paper.

4 Redraw the
side seam.

Making a toile pp74–75 Waistlines pp170–179 »»

 70 TOOLS

Alterations can be made to accommodate sloping shoulders, square shoulders, and

Shoulders, back, backs that may be wider or narrower than the pattern allowances. It’s important to
ensure that these alterations have a minimum effect on the armhole. Sleeves need to
and sleeves allow for movement, so should not be too tight, and pattern pieces can be enlarged
as necessary. Alterations can also be made for thin arms.

ADJUSTING TO FIT SQUARE SHOULDERS ADJUSTING TO FIT SLOPING SHOULDERS

1 Starting at the armhole, slash the

pattern piece about 11⁄4 in (3 cm)
below and parallel with the shoulder line,
1 Slash from the armhole
across the pattern piece 11⁄4 in
(3 cm) below the shoulder line
not cutting through the neck seamline. and parallel with it.

2 Spread the
TOOLS

tissue apart to
make the shoulder 2 Overlap the tissue by
the required amount
and tape in place.
line straighter. Tape
to pattern paper.

3 Redraw the
line across
the gap created.
3 Lower the armhole
by the same amount,
drawing a new seamline
on the tissue.

4 Raise the armhole

by the amount
added at the shoulder.

PREPARING THE PATTERN FOR ADJUSTING TO FIT BROAD ADJUSTING TO FIT NARROW
BROAD OR NARROW SHOULDERS SHOULDERS
SHOULDER ALTERATIONS

1 Draw a vertical
line 8 in (20 cm) 1 Cut along the lines that have been drawn and
spread the pieces of tissue apart on pattern paper, 1 Cut along the
drawn lines.
2 Slide the cut-out piece
of tissue in to overlap
the cut edges and reduce
long from the middle to accommodate the increase in shoulder length.
of the shoulder line. the shoulder length.

2 Next, draw a second line

horizontally from the end
of this line to the armhole.
2 Tape in place and redraw
the shoulder line. 3 Tape on to pattern paper and
redraw the shoulder line.

»» Measuring tools and marking aids pp18–19 Body measuring pp60–61

 ALTERING PATTERNS 71

ENLARGING A FITTED SLEEVE ENLARGING THE HEAD ON ENLARGING A FITTED SLEEVE

A FITTED SLEEVE AT THE ELBOW

1 Cut the sleeve pattern piece

vertically down the center. 1 Cut the pattern piece vertically
down the center, not cutting
through the wrist seamline.
1 Cut horizontally at an angle from just
above the elbow dart to the center,
then cut vertically almost to the top.

2 Spread the tissue

apart at the top by

2 Spread apart as
much as required to
the required amount
and taper to nothing 3 You may need to
make the armhole
slightly larger, by adding
2 Spread the tissue
on pattern paper,
leaving the sleeve 3 Redraw the
underarm seam
at the wrist.
make the sleeve wider. half this amount to each head intact, and tape over the gap created.
Tape to pattern paper. bodice side seam. to the paper.

INCREASING AT THE UNDERARM ON A FITTED SLEEVE DECREASING A FITTED SLEEVE FOR THIN ARMS

1 If the underarm is
tight, cut the
pattern horizontally
from armhole to
armhole, then cut the
1 To decrease the width of
a sleeve, make a vertical
pleat in the center of the
top piece of tissue sleeve pattern piece, from
vertically almost to wrist to sleeve head.
the sleeve head.

2 Taper the pleat

to nothing at
the sleeve head.
Tape in place.

2 Pull the outside points

up to make a gap in
the center of the required
amount, and tape to
pattern paper.

3 Reduce the
side seams on
3 Redraw the sleeve
side seams.
the armhole by
half this amount.

Making a toile pp74–75 Sleeves pp190–195 »»

 72 TOOLS

Pant alterations, to accommodate a large stomach, wide hips, or a prominent or flat bottom, can be
Pants more complicated than those on other pattern pieces, and need to be done in the correct order.
Crotch depth alterations are done first, followed by width alterations, then crotch length alterations,
and finally pant leg length. The crotch depth line is only marked on the back pattern pieces.

INCREASING DEPTH AT CROTCH SEAM DECREASING DEPTH AT CROTCH SEAM

1 Adjust both back

and front pattern
pieces by the same 1 Adjust both back
and front pattern
amount. Cut along the pieces by the same
upper lengthening and amount. Cut each of
shortening lines. the pattern pieces
along the lengthening
TOOLS

and shortening lines.

2 Spread the pattern

tissue apart by the
required amount at the
center back and center
front seams, tapering
to nothing at the side
seam. Tape the tissue
to pattern paper.

3 Redraw the
crotch edge.
2 Overlap by the
amount to be
reduced, working
from the center and
tapering to nothing
at the side seam.

INCREASING THE WAISTLINE DECREASING THE WAISTLINE

1 Take the
amount to be
decreased and
2 Reduce each
of the waist
seamlines by
divide it by eight. this amount.

1 Divide the amount to be

increased by eight (there
2 Add an equal amount to
each seamline at the waist,
are eight seamlines that you
can add on to). Tape the
tapering the new drawn line
back into the seam.
3 Draw a new line from the
decrease point back into
the seamline on the pattern.
tissue to pattern paper.

»» Measuring tools and marking aids pp18–19 Body measuring pp60–61

 ALTERING PATTERNS 73

INCREASING AT THE HIPLINE ADJUSTING FOR A LARGE BOTTOM DECREASING AT THE HIPLINE

1 Take the
amount to be 1 Cut through the
pant back pattern
pieces at the hipline.
increased and
divide it by four.
1 For fitted pants,
divide the
amount to be
decreased by four.

2 Place the
tissue on
2 Reduce the side
seam at the
hipline on each
2 Place a sheet
of pattern
paper under the
pattern paper
and spread
pattern piece by
one-quarter of the
hip area on the apart by the total reduction.
side seam of each required
pattern piece. amount, then
tape the tissue
to the paper.

3 Taper the new

drawn seamline
3 Add the required
amount to each
to waist and thigh.
of the seamlines at
the hip, tapering the
3 Redraw the
crotch edge.
This adjustment
new seamline into may be in
the waist and thigh. addition to a
crotch depth
adjustment.

4 For straight
pants, draw the
new seamline
straight down from
the hip to the hem.

INCREASING LENGTH AT CROTCH POINT DECREASING LENGTH AT CROTCH POINT

1 The crotch length

may need to be
increased by a 1 To reduce the
length of the
different amount on crotch seam, make
the front and back. a mark on the
Tape a sheet of pattern piece where
pattern paper under the new crotch
the crotch seam. point should be.

2 Add on the amount

required and redraw
2 Redraw the
inside leg seam
from this point to
the inside leg seam from taper into the
this new crotch point, original seamline.
tapering into the original
seamline.

Making a toile pp74–75 Waistlines pp170–179 »»

 74 TOOLS

When using a new pattern for the first time, or if you have

MAKING made pattern alterations, it is always a good idea to try out

the pattern in calico, to make a test garment called a toile.
This will tell you if the garment is going to fit you, or whether

A TOILE more alterations are required. It is also a good opportunity

to confirm that the style suits your figure type. You will need
a helper, or failing that, a dressmaker’s dummy.

When you try the toile on, if it is too big there will be surplus fabric. Pleat and pin
Toile too big
TOOLS

out the surplus fabric, making the pleating equal on both the left and right-hand
sides of the garment. Take off the toile and measure the surplus amount. Alter the
pattern pieces to match, by pinning out the surplus tissue.

BACK ADJUSTMENT THE WAIST ON THE SHOULDER

If the back is too big, pleat and pin out BODICE AND SKIRT ADJUSTMENT
the surplus fabric parallel to the center If the waist is too big, this If the shoulder is
back seam, doing this equally on both can easily be adjusted by too wide it will need
sides. The alteration can then be made taking more fabric into a sloping shoulder
down the center back seam on the the bust dart, thus making adjustment (see
appropriate pattern pieces. the waist smaller. If you page 70).
adjust the bust dart on
the bodice, you will need
to alter the skirt dart too,
so they join up.

THE HIP ON THE

SKIRT
If the hip is too
loose, pleat and pin
out the surplus
fabric, doing this
equally on both side
seams. Measure the
surplus amount and
take in the hipline on
the pattern pieces
accordingly (see
Decreasing the
hipline on a fitted
skirt, page 69).

»» Measuring tools and marking aids pp18–19 Useful extras p21 Cotton fabrics p43 Body measuring pp60–61 Altering patterns pp62–73
 MAKING A TOILE 75

If the toile is too small, the fabric will “pull” where it is too tight. The garment shown
Toile too small below is too tight over the bust and also over the high hip area. The pattern will need
adjusting to allow more fabric in these areas. It is also snug at the top of the sleeve,
which will need adjusting.

THE BUST ON THE BODICE SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT HOW TO ADJUST A TOILE

If a small increase is required If the sleeve is tight at the top, THAT IS TOO SMALL
in the bust, unpick the side or at the underarm, it is best to
seams and measure the alter the pattern pieces (see
increase required. Then page 71) and then to make up
make the required alteration a new sleeve for the toile. If the toile is too tight, it will
to the pattern pieces. If a require more fabric to cover the
larger increase is required contours of the body and you
the whole pattern piece
will need to be altered will need to make further
and a new front cut alterations to the pattern pieces.
out (see Increasing For small increases (up to 1½ in/
a bust dart, page 4 cm), you can adjust the toile
65). To be sure the
alteration is as described below and then
successful, make alter the pattern pieces
up a new toile accordingly, redrawing the
bodice to try. seamlines. For more substantial
increases, after altering the
pattern pieces you will need to
make up a new toile to try on.

1 Where the toile is too tight, unpick

the side seam on either side, until
the garment will hang without pulling.

2 Measure the gap between the

stitching lines where the seam
has been opened at the fullest point.
It should be the same on both sides
of the body.

3 Divide this measurement in half—

for example, if the gap is 1½ in
(4 cm) at the fullest point, then
3
⁄4 in (2 cm) needs to be added to
each seamline.

4 Using a marker, mark directly on

the toile the top and bottom of the
alteration. Also mark the fullest point
of the alteration.

5 When the toile has been removed,

add muslin to the seam in the given
area at the fullest point, tapering back
to the original seam at either end.

6 Try the toile on again to be sure

your alterations have made it fit
you properly, then measure them and
make adjustments to the relevant
pattern pieces.

THE HIP ON THE SKIRT

Unpick the side seams and
measure the increase required.
When you have adjusted the toile
with extra calico to be sure the fit
is right, you can alter the pattern
pieces accordingly (see page 68).

Darts pp106–109 »»
 76 TOOLS

Cutting out correctly can make or break your project. But first

CUTTING you need to examine the fabric in the store, looking for any
flaws, such as a crooked pattern, and checking to see if the
fabric has been cut properly from the roll—that is at a right

OUT angle to the selvage. If not you will need to straighten the
edge. If the fabric is creased, press it; if washable, wash it to
avoid shrinkage later. After this preparation, you will be ready to
lay the pattern pieces on the fabric, pin in place, and cut out.
TOOLS

It is important that the pattern pieces are cut on the correct grain, as this will make the fabric hang
Fabric grain correctly and produce a longer-lasting item. The grain of the fabric is the direction in which the
yarns or threads that make up the fabric lie. The majority of pattern pieces need to be placed with
and nap the straight of grain symbol running parallel to the warp yarn. Some fabrics have a nap due to the
pile, which means the fabric shadows when it is smoothed in one direction. A fabric with a one-
way design or uneven stripes is also described as being with nap. Fabrics with nap are generally
cut out with the nap running down, whereas those without nap can be cut out at any angle.

GRAIN ON WOVEN FABRICS GRAIN ON KNITTED FABRICS

Selvage Yarns that run the Warp

The selvage is
the woven, length of the A knitted fabric also
non-frayable Warp fabric are called has a grain. Some
edge that runs warp yarns. They knit fabrics stretch
parallel to the are stronger than Redrawn only one way while
warp grain. weft yarns and crotch edge others stretch in
Weft less likely to both directions.
Bias stretch. Patterns for knit
fabrics often need
Weft yarns run The bias grain is diagonal— to be cut following
crosswise, over running at 45 degrees to the the direction of the
and under the warp and weft. A garment greatest stretch.
warp yarns. cut on the bias will follow
Selvage the contours of the body. Weft

NAP DUE TO PILE NAP IF ONE-WAY DESIGN NAP IF STRIPED

Fabrics such as velvet, corduroy, and velour A one-way pattern—in this case flowers—that runs If the stripes do not match on both sides
will show a difference in color, depending on lengthwise in the fabric will be upside-down on one when the fabric is folded back, they are
whether the nap is running up or down. side when the fabric is folded back on itself. uneven and the fabric will need a nap layout.

»» Cuttting tools pp16–17 Marking aids pp18–19 Fabrics pp40–52

 CUTTING OUT 77

To check if the fabric has been cut properly from the roll, smooth it out flat, with the
Fabric preparation selvages lying together. If the cut ends are uneven and do not match, use one of
the following methods to make the edge straight. Then press the fabric.

PULLING A THREAD TO OBTAIN A STRAIGHT EDGE

1 On a loose-woven fabric you can pull a weft

thread to get a straight edge. First snip the
selvage, then find a single thread and tug it 2 The fabric will gather along the single
weft thread until the thread can be 3 Carefully cut along the space left
by the pulled-out weft thread.
gently to pull it out. removed completely.

CUTTING ON A STRIPE LINE CUTTING ON A STITCH LINE ON KNIT FABRICS

On plaid and
stripes, cut On jersey and
along the edge other knit fabrics,
of one of the if you look
boldest stripes carefully, you can
to achieve a cut along a row
straight edge. of stitches.

Before cutting out, sort out all the pattern pieces that are required for the item you
Pattern preparation are making. Check them to see if any have special cutting instructions. Make pattern
alterations, if necessary. If there are no alterations, just trim patterns to your size.

1 Using the pattern instruction sheet,

which has drawings of the pattern
pieces, select the pieces you require.
2 The instruction sheet also shows a suggested
cutting-out layout for the item you are
making, on different widths of fabric, with
3 Trim multi-size pattern pieces according to
the chosen size. Single-size pattern pieces do
not need to be cut to shape; just cut around
or without nap. them roughly if there is excess tissue.

Pattern layout pp78–79 Stripes and plaid pp80–81 Cutting out accurately p82 »»
 78 TOOLS

Fabric is usually folded selvage to selvage. With the fabric folded, the pattern is pinned on top, and both the
Pattern right and left side pieces are cut at the same time. If pattern pieces have to be cut from single layer fabric,
remember to cut matching pairs. For a fabric with a design, it is a good idea to have this on the outside so
layout that you can arrange the pattern pieces to show off the design. If you have left and right side pattern pieces,
they are cut on single fabric with the fabric right side up and the pattern pieces right side up.

PINNING THE PATTERN TO THE FABRIC

1 The “to fold” symbol indicates the pattern piece is to

be pinned carefully to the folded edge of the fabric.
To check the straight of grain on the other pattern pieces,
2 Measure from the pinned
end to the selvage.
3 Measure from the
other end of the
arrow to the selvage.
place the grain arrow so that it looks parallel to the Straight of
Fold selvage, then pin to secure at one end of the arrow. grain arrow
TOOLS

To fold symbol

Selvages
4 Move the pattern piece slightly until
this measurement is the same as the
pinned end, then pin in place.
5 Once it is straight, pin around the
rest of the pattern piece, placing
pins in the seam allowances.

GENERAL GUIDE TO LAYOUT

Place the pattern pieces on the fabric

with the printed side facing up. Some The darker shaded pieces are cut out
pieces will need to be placed to a fold. a second time.
Selvages

If a piece has to be cut twice in a fold, this If using a single layer of fabric the pieces will need
Fold will need to be done after the other pieces to be cut twice, reversing for the second piece.
have been cut and the fabric can be refolded.

»» Cutting tools pp16–17 Measuring tools p18 Reading patterns pp58–59

 CUTTING OUT 79

LAYOUT FOR FABRICS WITH A NAP OR A ONE-WAY DESIGN

Selvages

Fold
If your fabric needs to be cut out with a nap, all the
pattern pieces need to be placed so the nap will run “Top” of fabric, from
in the same direction in the made-up garment. which direction the
nap runs

LAYOUT ON A CROSSWISE FOLD LAYOUT ON A CROSSWISE FOLD WITH A NAP

Selvage

Selvages
If a crosswise fold is
required in a fabric
with a nap, fold the
Occasionally a fabric is fabric with the wrong
folded across the grain. sides together, then
This is usually done to cut into two pieces.
accommodate very large Turn one around to
pattern pieces. make sure that the
nap is running in the
same direction on
both pieces. Place the
two pieces of fabric
together, wrong side
to wrong side.
Fold

Selvage

LAYOUT ON A PARTIAL FOLD

Selvages

The fabric is
folded part way to
enable you to cut
some pattern
pieces on a fold
and the remainder
from single fabric.

Fold

Fabrics pp40–52 Fabric grain and nap p76

»»
 80 TOOLS

For fabrics with a stripe or plaid pattern, a little more care is needed when laying out the pattern
Stripes and pieces. If the checks and plaid are running across or down the length of the fabric when cutting
out, they will run the same direction in the finished garment. So it is important to place the pattern
plaid pieces to ensure that the plaid and stripes match and that they run together at the seams. If
possible, try to place the pattern pieces so each has a stripe down the center. With plaid, be
aware of the hemline placement on the pattern.

EVEN OR UNEVEN STRIPES EVEN OR UNEVEN PLAID

TOOLS

EVEN UNEVEN EVEN UNEVEN

STRIPES STRIPES PLAID PLAID

When a corner of the fabric is When a corner of the fabric is When a corner is folded back When a corner of the fabric is
folded back diagonally, the stripes folded back diagonally, the stripes diagonally, the plaid will be folded back diagonally, the plaid
will meet up at the fold. will not match at the fold. symmetrical on both of the will be uneven lengthwise,
fabric areas. widthwise, or both.

MATCHING STRIPES OR PLAID ON A SKIRT

1 Place one of the skirt

pattern pieces on the
3 Place the
adjoining skirt
pattern piece
fabric and pin in place. alongside, with
notches matching
and side seams
even. Transfer the
marks across.

2 Mark on the tissue the

position of the boldest
lines of the plaid or stripes.
4 Move the second
pattern piece
away, matching up
the bold lines, and
pin it in place.

MATCHING STRIPES OR PLAID AT THE SHOULDER

1 Mark the boldest lines of the stripes

or plaid around the armhole on the
front bodice pattern.
2 Place the sleeve pattern on to the
armhole, matching the notches, and
copy the marks on to the sleeve pattern.
3 Place the sleeve pattern on to the fabric,
matching the marks to the corresponding
bold lines, and pin in place.

»» Cutting tools pp16–17 Fabrics pp40–52 Fabric grain and nap p76
 CUTTING OUT 81

LAYOUT FOR EVEN PLAID ON FOLDED FABRIC

Center of sleeve is aligned with

prominent color bar Selvage
Fabric is folded to
form double layer
with plaid matching
on both layers
Pocket and yoke can
be cut on bias grain
Center front is for special effects
aligned with
prominent
color bar

Fabric is folded
Plaid checks along prominent
are matched color bar at center
at seams of repeat

Center back is aligned with Hem foldline is aligned with Collar and cuff can be Fold
prominent color bar prominent crosswise bar cut on a lengthwise grain

LAYOUT FOR EVEN STRIPES ON FOLDED FABRIC

If fabric has prominent

stripe, align stripe along Selvage
straight seam

If fabric has prominent

stripe, center of sleeve
should be aligned
Collar is cut
lengthwise
along stripe
Cuff is cut lengthwise
along stripe

Yoke is cut lengthwise,

with seamline aligned Fabric is folded into
with prominent stripe double layer with stripes
across back edge matching on both layers

LAYOUT FOR UNEVEN PLAID OR STRIPES ON UNFOLDED FABRIC

Pattern piece is cut

Hem foldline is out twice from single
arranged level layer of fabric
with base of
prominent bar

Bars align on both

collar pieces
Center back is
aligned with
prominent
lengthwise bar

Selvage

Pattern layout pp78–79

»»
 82 TOOLS

Careful, smooth cutting around the pattern pieces will ensure that they join together accurately.
Cutting out Always cut out on a smooth, flat surface such as a table—the floor is not ideal—and be sure your
scissors are sharp. Use the full blade of the scissors on long, straight edges, sliding the blades along
accurately the fabric; use smaller cuts around curves. Do not nibble or snip at the fabric.

HOW TO CUT MARKING NOTCHES

These symbols need to be

marked on to the fabric as
they are matching points.
One of the easiest ways to
do this is to cut the mirror
image of the notches out
into the fabric. Rather than
cutting out each notch
TOOLS

separately, cut straight

across from point to point.

If you are right-handed, place your left hand on the

pattern and fabric to hold them in place, and cut cleanly
with the scissor blades at a right angle to the fabric.

MARKING DOTS CLIPPING LINES

You can cut a small

clip into the fabric to
mark the dots that
indicate the top of
the shoulder on a
sleeve. Alternatively, A small clip or snip into
these can be marked the fabric is a useful way
with tailor’s tacks to mark some of the lines
(see opposite page). that appear on a pattern,
such as the center front
line and foldlines.

Once the pattern pieces have been cut out, you will need to mark the symbols shown on the tissue
Pattern through to the fabric. There are various methods to do this. Tailor’s tacks are good for circles and dots, or
mark these with a water or air-soluble pen (when using a pen, it’s a good idea to test it on a piece of
marking scrap fabric first). For lines, you can use trace basting or a tracing wheel with dressmaker’s carbon paper.

TRACE BASTING

1 This is a really useful technique to mark center front lines, foldlines,

and placement lines. With double thread in your needle, stitch a row
of loopy stitches, sewing along the line marked on the pattern.
2 Carefully pull away the tissue. Cut through the loops, then
gently separate the layers of fabric to show the threads. Snip
apart to leave thread tails in both of the fabric layers.

»» Cutting tools pp16–17 Marking aids pp18

 CUTTING OUT 83

TAILOR’S TACKS

1 As there are often dots of

different sizes, it is a good
3 Carefully pull the
pattern tissue
away. On the top
idea to choose a different color side, you will have
thread for each dot size. It is four threads
then easy to match the colors marking each dot.
as well as the dots. Have When you turn the
double thread in your needle, fabric over, the dot
unknotted. Insert the needle positions will be
through the dot from right to marked with an X.
left, leaving a tail of thread. Be
sure to go through the tissue
and both layers of fabric.

4 Gently turn back

the two layers of
fabric to separate
2 Now stitch through the dot
again, this time from top to
bottom to make a loop. Cut
them, then cut
through the threads
through the loop, then snip off so that thread tails
excess thread to leave a tail. are left in both
pieces of fabric.

TRACING PAPER AND WHEEL

1 This method is not

suitable for all fabrics
as the marks may not be
able to be removed
easily. Slide dressmaker’s
carbon paper against the
wrong side of the fabric.

2 Run a tracing wheel

along the pattern
lines (a ruler will help
you make straight lines).

3 Remove the carbon paper and carefully

pull off the pattern tissue. You will have
dotted lines marked on your fabric.

MARKERS

1 This method can only be

used with a single layer of
fabric. Press the point of the
pen into the center of the dot
marked on the pattern piece.

2 Carefully remove the pattern. The pen

marks will have gone through the tissue
on to the fabric. Be sure not to press the
fabric before the pen marks are removed or
they may become permanent.

Fabrics pp40–52 Pattern layout pp78–79

»»