How Engine Cooling System Works
How Engine Cooling System Works
The engine is an important part of your vehicle, it is saddled with the responsibility of
generating power to get your car –and you – moving. To do this, it burns fuel to operate and
in the process generates heat. To sustain the vehicle engine’s operation as well as
ensure peak performance of your vehicle, it is necessary to keep the engine running at the
optimum operating temperature range and this is where the engine cooling system
becomes important.
Are you interested in how engine cooling system works? Read on and learn how you can
keep your engine working properly so you don’t weld the piston rings to the engine cylinder
walls.
If the pressure keeps increasing, the valve within the pressure cap releases some coolant
into the reserve water tank. This right here is one reason why you should only fill this tank to
the recommended maximum if you do fill past the marked line, chances are your coolant will
be wasted when the liquid level starts to increase.
Pump
Pump
The pump serves the same purpose as the heart – circulate the coolant. Within its casing is
a radial impeller which, with the help of a serpentine belt, is driven by the engine’s rotational
motion. Provided the engine is running, the pump will keep the coolant circulating.
Coolant
Technically speaking, the coolant is not considered a part of the cooling system. But, this is
what makes engine cooling a possibility. If the pump is considered the heart of the cooling
system, then the coolant will be the blood, without it the pump is useless. It could be in gas
or liquid form. As it circulates the engine, it absorbs heat generated and transfers the heat
to the radiator to get rid of.
Thermostat
Thermostat
The thermostat is simply a valve that checks the temperature of the coolant and allows it to
flow through to the radiator only when a certain temperature value has been exceeded.
What this means is that when you first start your engine, the coolant circulates the engine
(to avoid hot spots) until the engine has warmed up to an efficient operating temperature,
only then is the coolant allowed to flow through to the radiator and shed off the heat.
Bypass System
The bypass system is just what it sounds like. It’s a passage that redirects the coolant
towards the pump instead of flowing to the radiator. When the engine is just starting and its
temperature is not up to the efficient operating temperature, the thermostat closes so the
coolant can be re-circulated around the engine without losing heat at the radiator.
Hoses
Since the coolant has to leave its storage container and flow through the pump, engine
block, and radiator, it needs a connecting circuit and that’s what the hose does, connect
these separate parts.
Most vehicles make use of high-temperature-resistant rubber, but some engines have a
built-in passage in the front housing or make use of a metal tube. Either way, they are all
designed to withstand the pressure within the cooling system. If you notice the rubber
beginning to look cracked and dry, or becomes spongy and soft, or some ballooning at any
of the ends, then it is time to get them replaced.
When the coolant temperature is at the optimum, the thermostat allows it to flow through to
the radiator to maintain that operating temperature.
There is no trick to keeping your engine temperature at the optimum range. If the system is
faulty it will overheat. The most important maintenance tips are simple: ensure the coolant
is at the recommended level before driving off, flush and refill the coolant periodically, and
inspect the hoses and belts for leaks or signs of weakness.
1. Radiator
2. Radiator top hose
3. Radiator bottom hose
4. Water pump
5. Thermostat
6. Electric cooling fan
7. Thermo-time switch
Radiator
Your radiator is the most important part of your cooling system. Coolant that has traveled
through the engine is pumped through the tubes of the radiator and is cooled off for another
round.
Radiator Hoses
Your vehicle’s cooling system has a number of rubber hoses which move fluid from one
place to another. These Radiator hoses need to be replaced before they become brittle and
cracked.
Water pump
The water pump in your cooling system pumps the coolant through the system. In most cars
the pump is belt driven, with the exception of some race cars that use electric water pumps.
Thermostat
Your engine doesn’t always maintain the same temperature. Starting your car in cold
weather would take forever if your engine stayed at the same temperature all the time. The
thermostat controls the flow of coolant throughout your car’s cooling system, with the
temperature of the coolant cooling the engine down.
Visit our 0800 Radiators blog to learn how to flush your radiator or sign up for our
monthly newsletter to stay updated with tips and tricks on maintaining your radiator.
6). How many liters of coolant does a car need?
Most car cooling systems hold around 5 liters and engine coolants are sold in 1 – 20 liters
containers, so it's easy to purchase the exact amount that you want. When empty and
depending on the capacity of your car's coolant, it should need around 5 liters of coolant
fluid.Jan 28, 2021
7). How Much Coolant Does My Car Need When Empty? [Guide]
https://sanedriver.com › how-much-coolant-does-car-need
Fill your radiator with a mixture of 60 percent coolant and 40 percent water. This mix will
provide the best corrosion protection, and protect against freezing [source: 2carpros]. Fill the
reservoir to about an inch (2.5 centimeters) of the top, so there aren't any air pockets
It’s fairly common for someone to install a rebuilt or even new factory-style compressor, (A5, A6, R4,
RV2, York, Tecumseh, etc.) only to find that the compressor shaft seal is leaking refrigerant or oil. A
little-known fact about A/C compressors is that the shaft seal is kept lubricated the entire time the
compressor is engaged and running. Believe it or not, this is true.
Many factory a/c systems lose their charge when the a/c system is not being used. This happens as
an under-lubricated seal around the compressor’s crankshaft dries up and develops a leak that
allows for refrigerant and/or oil to escape. Not so much of a problem years ago when you could bring
your car to any service station and get R12 topped off for 99 cents; but those days are gone like the
old Freon.
UNDERCHARGED SYSTEMS
Below are some symptoms often seen in systems that are slightly undercharged. These conditions
can indicate a loss of refrigerant as a result of your car’s air conditioning sitting dormant. (Please
note: this is not an exhaustive list and your classic car may exhibit some or all of the symptoms
below.)
• Clutch quickly cycles on/off (Not related to Suction valve system such as General Motors POA,
HGV or STV systems, Ford POA systems or Mopar EPR systems.)
• Cool, not cold air at the vents. (Result of cold, but not frigid evaporator temp.)
• If you are using R12 refrigerant in your ac compressor, bubbles in the sight-glass ** TIP – the sight-
glass will never be clear on a 134a system.
• Oil splashing the underside of the hood after slinging from the area of the clutch. While this
symptom can also indicate other problems, (contaminants in the system, bad shaft seal, high head
pressures). It can be the result of oil leaking from the shaft seal as it dries up from not being used
and gathering around the clutch & pulley until being used.
SANDEN TOP PORTS
Air conditioning systems that are drastically undercharged may likewise exhibit some of
the symptoms below:
• Compressor clutch doesn’t engage (If system equipped with a low-pressure switch.)
• There is very low suction pressure. (System not in a vacuum.)
• If you are using R12 refrigerant in your ac compressor, bubbles in the sight-glass ** TIP – the sight-
glass will never be clear on a 134a system.
• Oil splashing the underside of the hood after slinging from the area of the clutch. While this
symptom can also indicate other problems, (contaminants in the system, bad shaft seal, high head
pressures) it can be the result of oil leaking from the shaft seal. This happens as it dries up from not
being used and gathering around the clutch & pulley until being used.
For more information on the compressors and clutches check out this blog here.
Now, if your car is not used often and/or is stored for much of its life, simply start the car and run
your air conditioning (with the compressor engaged) for approximately 30 seconds. Doing this every
couple of weeks or so keeps the compressor shaft-seal lubricated, which can prevent most shaft
seal failures. In most cases, the shaft seal will re-seal itself once you start using the air conditioning
again, though your system might require “topping off” of refrigerant and/or a good wiping down of the
under-hood compartment until any oil clears the pulley assembly.
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