BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

B.Sc. in Knitwear Manufacturing & Technology

Course Title: Product Development

Chapter-04: Special Yarn

Lecture by- Sumi Akter

 R&D IN Spinning
Examples of new product development in yarn manufacturing
exists with several companies and products with diverse textile
end uses. Research and trade literature identified various new
product development processes and strategies. The following
illustrations are examples of new product development
processes in the global marketplace.

The creation of product with new and different characteristics

that offers new or additional benefits to the customer in market
and Research and Development may involve modification of an
existing product or its presentation, or formulation of an
entirely new product that satisfies a newly defined customer
want or market niche.
 Continue…
In this era new innovation and development have been
experienced in yarn manufacturing.
The products are listed below:

❑ Printed Yarn
❑ Glow Yarn
❑ Mosaic Yarn
❑ Core-spun yarn containing a metal wire
❑ Fancy Yarn
❑ Diamond Yarn
❑ Boucle yarn
❑ Loop Yarn
 Continue…
❑ Composite Yarns
❑ Covered Yarns
❑ Metallic Yarns
❑ Cool Yarn
❑ Slub Yarn
❑ Compact spinning
❑ Siro Yarn
❑ Snow yarn
❑ Snarl Yarn
❑ Knop Yarn etc.

Spinning Knowledge:
1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGPBsOdv6dY
2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYrEdEiLMcg
3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0n0H3s6GzEo
4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBMwpDHg50g
5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilTPWGPnvgI
6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh8p2CMq2jE
 Composite Yarns
• This yarns also termed as compound yarns as well. It consists of at
least two threads, one forming the core of the composite yarn, and
the other strand forms the sheath component. Out of the two
threads one is staple fiber yarn and other one is filament yarn. It is
even in diameter, smooth, and available in the same count range as
spun and filament yarns.
• Classification
 Core-spun yarn containing a metal wire
• Core-spun yarn has a two-component structure with a continuous
filament as the core that is by an outer layer of short-staple fibers that
serves as the sheath. A core-spun yarn with a metal wire as the core
covered by short-staple fibers not only possesses the electrical
property of the metal wire but also the good wear comfort, strength,
surface appearance, and, most importantly, the protection for the
metal wire provided by the staple fibers in the outer layer. As a result,
it has become an excellent candidate for the conductive tracks of
electronic textiles. The vortex spinning technology suitable for
producing core-spun in which the core filament can be evenly
wrapped by the staple fibers in the outer layer.
Siro Yarn (Simultaneous Roving Spinning Technology):
• Siro spinning is the similar type of ring spinning process in which two
rovings are fed to drafting at the same time & twisted together as a
double yarn, which is known as Siro spinning. The single yarn has
more hairiness due to which there will be fly and fluff generation
during shed formation on the weaving machine.
• Traditionally, two-fold yarns have been used for weaving/knitting
because they are stronger, smoother and more resistant to abrasion
during weaving/knitting. It also helps in either reducing the size
percentage or even eliminates the very process. Spinners have long
demanded spinning and doubling in one single operation. The Siro
spinning process offers the solution.
Slub Yarn:
• Slub yarn refers to yarn that has been purposely spun
with slubs (thicker sections along the yarn). While it
was once seen only as a defect, slub yarn is now
intentionally created to give fabric more personality.
 Continue…
Types of slub yarn:
• Pattern/regular slub yarn
• Non-pattern/irregular slub yarn
• Multi count slub yarn both pattern & non-pattern
Uses:
Slub yarn is used in traditional fabrics such as upholstery,
lace, curtains and household fabrics in general. But it is
becoming more popular in the production of denim.
 Melange Yarn
Melange Yarn is a blend of different colored fibers to develop
various shades in the yarn. Different in ratio of fibers in the
blend alters the uniqueness of spun melange yarn.

Definition: Melange yarn may be defined as “the yarn

produced by the combination of at least two or more than
two fibers”. Conventionally, the term melange is used for such
yarns which are produced by the combination of two fibers
(whether of same type but different in color or type of fiber
used is different). In case of cotton melange yarn “a melange
yarn is the yarn which is produced with various combinations
of raw white and dyed cottons or dyed fibres.”
For example, if we mix 99% raw white cotton and 1% dyed
cotton (of any colour), then it will called Melange yarn.
Classification of Melange Yarn: Melange yarn can be
classified into two of its vary basic types:
1. Blended melange yarn
2. Non‐blended melange yarn

1. Blended Mélange Yarn: Such type of yarn in which

different fibers are mixed/blended together in a certain fixed
ratio for instance PC (Polyester: Cotton blend) 50:50, PV
(Polyester :Viscose) 80:20, CV(Cotton :Viscose) 60:40 etc.

2. Non‐Blended Mélange Yarn: Yarn in which there are

no different fibers blended together, but different colored
fibers of same type are used to make the yarn e.g. 100%
cotton dyed yarn, etc.
 Classification of Melange Yarn:
• Ecru Melange
• Grey Melange
• Anthra Melange
Neppy yarn: Fancy yarn in which small reinforced areas
known as neps - are formed at specified intervals,
typically in a variety of colours, to achieve a decorative
effect in a woven fabric or knit. Neps can be added to
mixes or webs.
 Compact spinning
The compact spinning is a process where fiber strand
drawn by drafting system is condensed before twisting it.
• In conventional ring spinning, fibers in the selvedge of
strand emerging from front roller nip do not get fully
integrated into the yarn because of the restriction to twist
flow by the spinning triangle. These fibres show up partly
as protruding hairs or as wild fibres.
• The spinning triangle exists because of higher width of the
strand as compared to final yarn diameter. Further the
fibres are tensioned to varying extent depending upon their
position in the spinning triangle. As a result full realization
of fibre strength is not achieved in the yarn.
 Continue…
• This problem is solved by applying the compact spinning systems
that increases yarn quality. It is carried out by means of narrowing
and decreasing the width of the band of fibres which come out
from the drawing apparatus before it is twisted into yarn, and by
the elimination of the spinning triangle. It can be used for spinning
both short and long staple yarns.

• The compact spinning process produces a new yarn structure,

which approaches the ideal staple fibre yarn construction even
more closely. This has positive effects on raw material use,
productivity, downstream processing, and on the product
appearance.
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMtYlD--o7k
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uX9yO_esPM
 Inject Yarn
• Injected (slub) yarn is a kind of fancy yarn with special
structure developed by injection of coloured or different
types of fibres. Effect yarns produce an enhanced aesthetic
impression as well as ornamentation in the fabric.

• Injected slub yarn is a kind of fancy yarn with special structure

developed by injection of coloured or different types of fibres.
Effect yarns produce an enhanced aesthetic impression as
well as ornamentation in the fabric.

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdiLuWiBafA
Inject Yarn
 Cool Yarn
❑ Acelon specializes in manufacturing high quality cool yarn which is a
functional yarn cooler than cotton and other yarn about 1 ~ 2°C
lower. The yarns are widely used in summer underwear, T-shirts,
sport wears, socks, Biking gloves, hats, stockings, linings, and so on.
 Applications of Cool Yarn:
Summer underwear, T-shirts, sport wears, socks, biking gloves,
hats, stockings, linings, and so on.
Metallic Yarns:
• It has been used for thousands of years. The laminating process
seals a layer of aluminum between two layers of acetate or
polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarns, as shown in
Figure. The film may be transparent, so the aluminum foils shows
through, or the film and/or the adhesive may be colored before the
laminating process. The metalizing process vaporizes the aluminum
at high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film.
 What are the Advantages of Metallic Yarns?

The main benefits of yarns are listed below:

• Metallic yarns are known to absorb negative
electricity from the body after skin contact.
• It has an antibacterial property.
• It does not cause itching or allergen in the body.
• High strength to washing.
• Long lifetime
• aesthetically perfect products
 Usages of Metallic Yarn
• Automotive
• Aerospace
• Technical textiles
• Power
• Marine
 Covered Yarns
• Covered yarns have a core yarn which is completely
covered by fiber or another yarn. The core might be an
elastomeric yarn, such as polyester or nylon. Covered yarns
may have either a single covering or double covering. The
second covering is usually twisted in the direction opposite
from the first covering.
• These yarns are lighter, more resilient, and more
economical than double covered yarns and can be used in
satin, batiste, broadcloth, and suiting as well as for
lightweight foundation garment. Most ordinary elastic
yarns are double-covered to give them balance and better
coverage. Fabrics made with these yarns are heavier.
• Ex- rubber or spandex, or yarns.
Continue…
 Knop Yarn
• A knop yarn is one that contains prominent bunches of one or more of its
component threads, arranged at regular or irregular intervals along its
length (Figure).
• It is normally produced by using an apparatus that has two pairs of rollers,
each capable of being operated independently. This makes it possible to
deliver the base threads intermittently, while the knopping threads that
create the effect are delivered continuously. The knopping threads join the
foundation threads below the knopping bars. The insertion of twist
collects the knopping threads into a bunch or knop. The vertical
movement of the knopping threads results in formation of a bunch or
knop. The vertical movement of the knopping bars decides whether the
knop is small and compact or spread out along some length of the yarn.
 Loop Yarn
• A loop yarn has core with an effect yarn wrapped around it and
overfed so as to produce nearly circular projection on its surface.
Figure - shows the structure of a loop yarn, in this case somewhat
simplified by showing the core as two straight bars. In reality, the
core, which for a loop yarn always consists of two yarns twisted
together, which, can entrap the effect yarn.

• As a general rule, four yarns are involved in the construction, of

which two forms the core or ground yarns. The effect yarn or yarns
are formed with an overfed of about 200% or more. It is important
that these be of the correct type and has good quality: even, low
twist, elastic and pliable yarn is required. The effect yarn is not
completely entrapped by the ground threads and therefore a binder
is needed. The size of the loops may be influenced by the level of
overfeed, the groove space on the drafting rollers, the spinning
tension, or the twist level of the effect yarn. Loop yarns can also be
made with slivers in place of yarns for the effect.
Fig: Loop Yarn
 Snarl Yarn
• Like the loop yarn, the snarl yarn has twisted core, although, again for the sake of
simplicity, the core has been shown in Figure as two parallel bars. A snarl yarn is
one which displays ‘snarls’ or ‘twists’ projecting from the core. It is produced by
similar method to the loop yarn, but uses a lively, high twist yarn and a somewhat
greater degree of overfeed as the effect yarn.
• The required size and frequency of the snarls may be obtained by careful control
of the details of overfeed and spinning tension, and by the level of twist in the
effect yarn.

Figure : Structure of Snarl Yarn

 Boucle yarn
• This types of yarns are characterized by tight loops
projecting from the body of the yarn at nearly regular
intervals, as shown if Figure. Some of these yarns are made
by air-jet texturing, but most are of three-ply
constructions. The three components of the yarn are the
core, the effect, and the tie, or binder. The effect yarn has
the loops wrapped around a core, or base yarn, and then
the third ply, or binder, is wrapped over the effect ply in
order to hold the loops in place. The individual plies could
be filament or spun yarns. The characteristics of these
yarns determine the ultimate design effect.
 Diamond Yarn
• A diamond yarn is produced by folding a coarse single yarn or
roving with a fine yarn or filament having contrasting color using S-
twist, and cabling it with a similar fine yarn using Z-twist. Multi-fold
or ‘cabled’ yarns may be made by extending and varying this
technique, to bring about a wide range of effects. Clearly, a true
diamond yarn would show some compression effect upon the thick
yarn from the thin ones, an effect which in the interests of clarity is
not provided in Figure.
 Printed Yarn
• A new era for Bangladesh is yarn printing. As like as the normal printing process it
has some similarity like localized dyeing or space dyeing, color fixing; though no
printing paste with thickener is used here. It is a process where printing is done
with dye solution and applied on yarn in soft wounded package form. The printing
is done by bobbin injection method. Time, temperature and pressure are the
main controlling points in the process. After the production of printed yarn, fabric
is produced through knitting. The fabric has mélange, slub, irregular color effects
which can produce value added garments
 Benefits of Printed Yarn
• The main advantages of these yarn is to overcome the complicate mixing,
blending & coloration process or different attachment needed to include
in spinning machineries for imparting slub, inject or other effect.

• Different types of finishes also give a different touch in the appearance of

required product. Finishes are for improve the appearance (color, pattern,
sheen), change the texture (embossing, brushing and smoothing), improve
the feel (soften, crisper, firmer), improve the drape (how the fabric hangs)
–weighted, improve wearing qualities (crease resistance, stain resistance,
flammability, water proof etc), modify care requirements (easy wash,
quicker drying time, colorfast, less shrinkage) etc. Some products have
extra technical function and technical properties that meet up some
solution which cause extra benefit for not to use extra cloths over it. Here
there is a discussion about the new possible way to meet up special design
by printing the yarn. This technology can be used to produce beautiful
effects in knitted fabric and garments with extra value addition.
 Printed/ Space Dyed Yarn
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDmifKIH
0AU
 Glow Yarn
• Glow yarn is developed by mixing, melting and extruding Polyester
chips with Photo-luminescent pigments.
• This is a new patented yarn, with strong light absorbing-storing-
emitting luminescent materials. It automatically glows in the dark
after absorbing sunlight for 3 minutes or luminous light for 20
minutes. One hour of sunlight exposures would enable to glow yarn
to emit light for up to 3 hours continuously. This light absorbing
process of absorbing-emit-storing-emitting can be replaced
indefinitely.

▪ Longest glow ever

▪ Highest luminosity
▪ Suitable for outdoor life
▪ Unlimited range of applications
▪ Excellent resistance against weather and light as
well as stability against both water and other
chemicals. Figure: Glow yarn
 Mosaic Yarn
• The mosaic yarn is a new revolutionary yarn. The yarn is colored striped
following a prefixed pattern. The yarn suddenly changes color, not by
dyeing or printing but by a change of the fed roving, we can program
different lengths to get a striped yarn. The transition from one color to the
next is extremely short, less than 1 cm, so the change is clean and precise,
no tails of the previous color are dragged behind. Besides striped yarn, the
system can make moulinés (chain yarn), and regular slubs. All these can be
combined at the same time. Multiple variables are precisely controlled
such as length, thickness and randomness.
1.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeik7Mu
Q930
2.https://sites.google.com/site/spinningeducate
e/spinning-video/special-yarn