WOLLO UNIVERSITY

KOMBOLCHA INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY SCHOOL OF TEXTILE,

LLEATHER AND FASHIN TECHNOLOGY
DEPARTMETN OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
ETHIOPIA

TITLE: -THE CAUSE STUDY EFFECT OF WEAVE STRUCTURE ON VARIOUS

PHYSICAL CHARACTERS (AIR PERMEABILITY, ABRASION, STIFFNESS AND
STRENGTH)
THESIS FINAL

NAME By ID

1. Mebrat Alemayehu………………………………………………1056/08
2. Zebna Hailu…………………………………………………………1777/08
3. Nigatu Eirgete………………………………………………………1307/08
4. Molla Belay…………………………………………………………1217/08
ADVISOR: MAHLET.A
NOV, 2020

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 DECLARATION
We, the undersigned, declare that the thesis comprises our work. In compliance with
internationally accepted practices, we have acknowledged and refereed all materials used in
this work. we understand that non-adherence to the principles of academic honesty and
integrity, misrepresentation/ fabrication of any idea/data/fact/source will constitute sufficient
ground for disciplinary action by the University and can also evoke penal action from the
sources which have not been properly cited or acknowledged.
Name of the student: Mebrat Alemayehu _____________
Zebna Hailu _____________
Nigatu Erigetie _____________
Molla Belay _____________
date of submission: _____________
place: kombolcha
This Thesis Has Been Submitted For Examination With My Approval As University Advisor.
Advisor Name: Ms Mahlet Ayele
A Dvisor’s Signature: _____________

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

First, we would like to thanks our almighty God for giving we strength, patience and
guidance to go through this thesis work. Secondly, we would like to express our sincere
gratitude to our advisor Ms. Mahlet Ayele for her continuous support, patience, motivation,
and immense knowledge. Her guidance helps to our in all the time of research and writing of
this thesis. She consistently allowed this paper to be our own work, but steered we in the right
the direction whenever she thought we needed it. Besides our advisor, we would like to thank
the rest of our friends as well as scientific questions which incanted we to widen our idea
from various perspectives.

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 ABSTRACT
This research aims to study the relationship between different fabric weave structures with in
its physical (character) properties. Physical properties of the fabric in terms of air
permeability, strength, stiffness, and abrasion resistance were determined. We will study the
thesis used fabric like plain, twill and satin weave structures showed. Cotton woven fabrics of
different weaves, linear densities of the weft and the same weft densities were the objects of
the investigation. The weave and linear density of weft yarn significantly influence the
physical Properties of woven fabrics. This study focus on the effect of weave structure on the
textile physical properties. The fabric weight, thickness, air permeability and density have
been considered and correlated to the physical properties of the woven fabric. The effect of
the weave structure on the strength, stiffness, abrasion, and air permeability of cloth from the
same cotton yarn counts within the same PPI and EPI in weaves comprising plain, twill, and
sateen weaves.
Key word: weave structure, linear density, physical character

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 LIST OF ABBREVIATIONAND SYMBOLS

L Length of fabric projecting

ASTM American Society for Testing Materials

RH Relative Humidity

ºC Degree centigrade

C Actual Bending length

BS British standard
KTSC Kombolcha textile share company
EPI Ends per inch
PPI Picks per inch

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 TABLE OF CONTENTS
Declaration............................................................................................................................ ii
Acknowledgement ................................................................................................................ ii
Abstract ............................................................................................................................... iv
List Of Abbreviationand Symbols ......................................................................................... v
List Of Tables .................................................................................................................... viii
List Of Figures ..................................................................................................................... ix
Chapther One ........................................................................................................................ 1
1. Introduction ................................................................................................................ 1
1.2 .Statement Of Problem ................................................................................................. 2
1.3.Objective Of The Project ............................................................................................. 3
1.3.1. General Objective ................................................................................................. 3
1.3.2. Specific Objective ................................................................................................ 3
1.4.Scope Of The Study ..................................................................................................... 4
1.5 Significance Of The Study ........................................................................................... 4
1.6 Research Gap ............................................................................................................... 4
1.7 Limitation Of The Project ............................................................................................ 4
Chapter Two ......................................................................................................................... 5
2. Literature Review .......................................................................................................... 5
2.1 Background ................................................................................................................. 5
2.2 Basic Weave Structure Type ........................................................................................ 9
2.2.1 Plain Weave ........................................................................................................ 10
2.2.2 Twill Weave ........................................................................................................ 10
2.2.3 Satin/Sateen Weave ............................................................................................. 11
2.3 Fabric Property .......................................................................................................... 12
2.3.1 Air Permeability .................................................................................................. 12
2.3.2 Abrasion Resistance ............................................................................................ 13
2.3.3 Fabric Stiffness ................................................................................................... 16
2.3.4 Strength ............................................................................................................... 17

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Chapter Three ....................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
3.Material And Methodology ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
Data Collection Techniques ............................................................................................. 18
3.1 Materials.................................................................................................................... 18
3.2 Methodology ............................................................................................................. 19
3.2.1 Expermental Flow Chart ...................................................................................... 19
3.3 Tests For Fabric Sample ............................................................................................ 20
3.3.1 Air Permeability Test .......................................................................................... 20
3.3.2 Fabrics Stiffness Test .......................................................................................... 21
3.3.3 Abrasion Resistance ............................................................................................ 22
3.3.4 Tensile Strength .................................................................................................. 24
Chapter Four ....................................................................................................................... 25
4. Resulte And Discition ....................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
4.1 Scouring And Bleaching Of The Fabric ....................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
4.2 Air Permeability Analysis .......................................................................................... 28
4.3 Tensile Test ............................................................................................................... 29
4.3.1 Calculations Of Tensile Strength For Each Weave............................................... 30
4.4 Abrasion Resistance................................................................................................... 32
4.5 Stiffness Test Procuders And Result .......................................................................... 33
Chapter Five ......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
5.Conclusions And Recommendations .................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
5.1 Conclusions ................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
5.2 Recommendation ....................................................................................................... 39
5.2.1 Future Work ........................................................................................................ 39
Chapter Six ......................................................................................................................... 40
6.References ......................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.

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LIST OF TABLES
Table 2.1:- Fabric properties of samples and Mass values of samples after different rubbing
cycles……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..14
Table 3.1 Constructional parameters of fabrics under study ................................................................. 18
Table 3. 2 ASTM standard ....................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Table 4 1:- Recipes Of scouring procsses ........................................................................... 25
Table 4 2 :-Recipes for bleaching ........................................................................................ 27
Table 4 .3:- Structural properties of fabric samples (Air permeability) ................................. 28
Table 4. 4:- tensile test result values .................................................................................... 30
Table 4 6:- stiffness result tests ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.

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LIST OF FIGURES
figure2. 1 Plain Weave .......................................................................................................................... 10
Figure2. 2 2d 2/1twill Weaves ............................................................................................................. 11
Figure2. 3 2d Satin Weave .................................................................................................................... 12
Figure3. 1 air permeability tester .......................................................................................................... 21
Figure3. 2 Fabric stiffness tester ........................................................................................................... 22
Figure:-3. 3 Martindale Abrasion Testers ............................................................................................. 23
Figure 3. 4:- tensile strength tester ........................................................................................................ 24
Figure 4. 1:- during scouring processes………………………………………………………….. 26
Figure 4. 2:- bleached fabric ................................................................................................................. 27
Figure 4. 3 :- Tested samples in KTSC ................................................................................................. 30
Figure 4. 4:- Sample preparation........................................................................................................... 34
Figure 4. 5:- sample testing ................................................................................................................... 35

Figure 4. 1:- during scouring processes ............................................................................................ 26

Figure 4. 2:- bleached fabric .............................................................................................................. 27
Figure 4. 3 :- Tested samples in KTSC ................................................................................................. 30
Figure 4. 4:- Sample preparation....................................................................................................... 34
Figure 4. 5:- sample testing ................................................................................................................ 35

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i
 CHAPTHER ONE
1. INTRODUCTION
The physical properties and the appearance of cloth depend to a great extent upon the weave.
The strength, elongation, drape, tear resistance, fabric assistance, air permeability, and texture
are some of the properties which may be varied by changing the weave. For aeronautical
cloths with rigid limits on the weight; the weave is an important means of obtaining some of
the desired physical properties (Herbert F. Schiefer, Richard S. Cleveland.etal, 1933).
Human perception of clothing comfort is an interaction between physical, physiological and
psychological factors with the surrounding environment when wearing a garment (G.Song,
2011).The thermal balance of a human being is one of the most important functions of
clothing; the human body continuously generates heat by its metabolic processes. The body’s
heat losses are through radiation, convection, conduction, evaporation and through respiration
(R.T.Oğulata, 2007).Clothing creates a barrier between the skin surface and surroundings.
This barrier influences not only the heat exchange by convection and radiation, but also the
heat exchange by the evaporation of excreted sweat In addition, It reduces sensible heat
transfer, while in most cases; it permits evaporated moisture to escape. Fibre and fabric
structure properties affect the thermal state of body (M. Matusiak, 2006).The AP and
comfort properties of the fabric can be determined by interactions and interrelationship of the
properties of its constituent fibres, yarn, fabric structure and chemical finishes applied during
the production of the fabric (Haristian, 2011). The comfort properties of viscose rayon,
cotton and regenerated bamboo have been studied and it has been concluded that bamboo
fibres are superior comfort properties as compared to cotton and viscose rayon fibres
(Gericke & Van der Pol, 2010)
In textiles, fabrics are manufactured in wide varieties and designs. And different designs and
effects are produced on fabric with various mechanisms which are helpful to form different
weaves and lots of design which enhances the look of apparels. Weaving is the one of the
various mechanisms of fabric manufacturing and another conceptual term of the study that
needs to be discussed. (Tortora and Merkel ,2005) define weaving as the method or process
of interlacing two or more sets of yarns or similar materials so that they cross each other at
usually right angles to produce woven fabric. It further explains it is the act of causing two
systems of yarn, warp and filling, to interlace.
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This may be done on a power or hand loom or by several manual methods. Weaving is the
textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called the warp and the filling or weft
(older woof), are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. The warp threads run
lengthways of the piece of cloth, and the weft runs across from side to side. Cloth is woven
on a loom, a device for holding the warp threads in place while the filling threads are woven
through them. Weft is an old English word meaning "that which is woven". It concludes that,
weaving in general involves the interlacing of two sets of threads at right angles to each
other: the warp and the weft (Weaving, 2010).
Herbert had studied on weave a series of cloths from the same cotton yarns in several weave
structure to determine the effect on the physical properties. The effect of the weave on the
properties of cloths of the same weight has been studied. In general a cloth which is closely
woven, firm, and has a large number of threads interlacing s per unit area and short floats has
a greater strength and has a lower tear resistance and air permeability than a cloth of the same
weight which is loosely woven, sleazy, and has a small number of thread interlacing's per unit
area and long floats. The strength and elongation decrease as the tear resistance is increased.
The factors which contribute to strength and tear resistance have been enumerated and
discussed. The effect of rubberizing and doping on the properties of cloth has been
determined. Rubberizing and doping increased the strength and decreased the tear resistance
and permeability. A cloth of initially high tear resistance retains its high tear resistance
relative to a cloth of initially low tear resistance (Herbert F. Schiefer, Richard et.al,1933)

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 1.2. STATEMENT OF PROBLEM

When a textile product is valued, comfort, strength and other physical properties is
considered as a fundamental property. Comfort is a result of the complicated effect of textile
properties which basically depends on the chemical structure and physical characteristics of
its constituent fibers, fiber content, physical properties of its constituent yarns. Doing this
thesis is to identify easily which type of fabric(weave ) structure, thread density; porosity and
thickness are affects' the physical properties comfort property depend on the different weave
structure with in the same fabric weight , thread density, yarn count and other properties.
Most literature focuses on comfort properties to the wearer rather than other physical
character. Now days, air permeability, Strength. Stiffness and abrasion resistance of the fabric
also has play main role on the quality of the fabric.in this study we will analyses the effect
of different weave structure with various characters(air permeability, strength, stiffness and
abrasion resistance property) based on as per ASTM standard.

1.3.OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT

1.3.1. General Objective

1. Effect of weave structure on various physical characters (air permeability,

abrasion, stiffness and strength).
1.3.2. Specific objective

1. To study(analysis) outcome of effect of weave structure on the physical character of

the fabric
2. To study effect of the basic weave type like plain , twill and satin on the physical
properties of the fabric
3. To study the effect of different weave structure on the same thread density and yarn
count.

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1.4. SCOPE OF THE STUDY

This research work focuses on effect of weave structure on various physical characters (air
permeability, fabric stiffness and strength and abrasion resistance). The scope of the activities
is to procurement of fabric sample with different weave structure(plain, twill, satin) and then
test the fabric sample based on ASTM standard and analyzing the effect of weave structure
with different characters by considering count, thread density etc.
1.5 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY

Study on effect of weave structure on the physical properties of woven fabric is advantageous
for humans satisfaction both psychologically, physiologically and physical agreement
between a human being and the environment and to know basic affecting parameters of
physical comfort properties of woven fabrics. This is mainly also interprets effects of weave
structure on physical related properties like (air permeability, abrasion resistance, strength
and stiffness).
1.6 RESEARCH GAP
Many researchers have investigated the influence of raw material, yarn production
technology, yarn twist and chemical treatment and effect of weave structure on the different
physical property of woven fabric in singly. However, our study will be focused on
evaluating of different weave structures with in different physical properties (air
permeability, abrasion resistance, strength and stiffness) of full bleached cotton woven fabric
with in the same thread density and yarn count.
1.7 LIMITATION OF THE PROJECT
When we are solving these problem we are considering some limitation such as lack air
permeability tester, abrasion resistance tester and the same yarn count and thread density of
the raw material {specimen} are not consider we will do this project by considering the same
count and tread density b/c there is no any movement to anywhere as we want b/c of
COVID19 and Our country's current (issues) situations.

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 CHAPTER TWO
2. LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 BACKGROUND
The particular order of interlacing of warp and weft threads forms the weave. Two kinds of
warp and weft interlacing can be found in the woven fabric, depending on the mutual position
of warp and weft threads at the points of intersections, i.e. warp over the weft and weft over
the warp. Different combination of these two kinds of intersections can form short and long
floats of warp and weft threads and can form infinite variety of weave (Blinov, I, et al.,
1988).
The term comfort is defined as “the absence of unpleasantness or discomfort” or “a neutral
state compared to the more active state” (Clulow, 1987). Comfort mainly is of three types:
sensorial (tactile) comfort, psychological comfort and thermo physiological comfort (Li,
2010; Sule, 2012; Wang, Lui, & Wang, 2010). Thermo physiological comfort is determined
by the air permeability (AP), moisture management and heat transfer regulation properties of
the garment (Chen, Fan, & Zhang, 2003; Frydrych, Dziworska, & Bilska, 2002).
Among the parameters of fabric structure weave is the most important one. When all the
parameters are constant except weave, the influence of weave on the fabric properties can be
found. The study of the effect of the weave structures on the properties of woven fabrics is of
importance for various reasons. First, it is of interest as a property of the fabrics, it may lead
to a better understanding of their nature, and, in particular, of the way in which they affect the
comfort and functional properties of fabrics. Second, the weave structures can be widely used
for representing the fabrics in cloth analysis division of a textile mill. Third, textile fabrics are
used in technical textiles and home furnishings and for this their properties must be
satisfactory.

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Fourth as (Morino, 2010) states in a recent paper “in order to promote the design process for
woven fabrics, new parameters are defined”; this is because the study of weave structures is
an important component of designing fabrics. They have suggested a new tightness factor
based on a combination of Ashen Hurst’s end-plus intersections theory and Love’s race track
geometry. The advantages and limitation of the new tightness are discussed. In the past,
weaving technologists preferred one or the other empirical relationships for calculating
sett/count relationships in fabrics such as – Ashen Hurst’s “ends plus intersections theory”.
Armitage and Brierley’s maximum sett theory or mathematical theories based on Peirce’s
geometric model graphical solutions to optimise fabric design (Ashen Hurst, 1884,
Armitage, 1907).
The first stage in designing of fabrics is the generalisation of the fabric structure features by
one integrated factory (Peirce,1937) aptly stated “It gives a very suitable basis of comparison
for any experimental investigation, not only of cover but also of hardness, crimp permeability
and transparency limits of picking, etc., in which fabrics of similar cover factors show
similarity”. The second stage is estimating the statistical dependence on the integrated fabric
structure factor. The integrating fabric structure factor can be distributed into two groups;
those based on Peirce’s, theory and those based on Brierley’s theory of maximum settling.
They studied on a critical review of the fabric degree of tightness and its applications.
(Seyam and El-Shiekh, 1994, Galceren, 1961, Newton, 1995, Milasius, 2007).
Luther had studied that, there are many kinds of fabric weave. The most common ones are
Twill; Plain, Satin, Uncut Pile, Chenille Weave, Dobby, Cut Pile, Double Knit, Leno, and
Jacquard. Furthermore, fabric weaves are different methods wherein the various types of
fabric are manufactured. There are actually a lot of different fabric weaves that are initially
made due to various purposes. Also they can help in determining exactly how durable
particular clothing is and how they affects the physical properties of the woven fabrics.
Figuring out which type of weave works best for a specific type of clothing can prevent
having an end product that easily becomes frayed (wear out) (Luther,2010).

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Wynne states that, a weave refers to the order of interlacing of the warp ends or the weft
picks. She further explains that, a weave repeat is the smallest number of threads required to
show all of the interlacing in the pattern. She adds that, weaves fall into three main
categories, namely Basic weaves (which are the most popular and include plain, twill, satin
and those weaves that are developed from them), Fancy weaves and Compound
weaves(Wynne, 1997).
Grosicki again explains that, woven structures may be conveniently divided into two
principal categories, as follows; Simple structures in which the ends and the picks inter set
one another at right angles and in the cloth are respectively parallel to each other, and
Compound weaves which there may be more than one series of ends or picks some of which
may be responsible for the “body” of the fabric such as the ground yarns, whilst some may be
employed entirely for ornamental purposes such as “figuring” or “face” yarns.
Woven cloth can be plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or it can be woven in decorative
or artistic designs, including tapestries. There are a variety of weaving techniques used to
make fabrics. The techniques range from the simple, such as plain weave to elaborate, such as
tapestry. The weight and quality of a woven fabric depends on the weaving techniques used
to produce it. Perhaps the most simple of all weaving techniques is the plain weave, which is
generally used to produce lightweight, almost sheer fabrics such as muslin and cotton lawn
(Grosicki, 1975).
The types of weaves have often been mistaken for types of fabrics. Each different fibre
content advances towards the hand and drape of the fabric. There are many different types of
weaves. Some are plain and some are fancy, but all use the basic "under & over" technique of
weaving. The basic types of weaves are Plain weave, Twill weave and Satin weave. Pile
weaves have cut or uncut loops that stand up on the surface of the fabric. Velvet( A closely
woven fabric with a thick short pile on one side) and chenille( an extremely soft and bunchy
fabric often used to make sweaters) are pile weaves.

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Mabey had studied on identifies plain, decorative and pile as some of the many categories of
weaves commonly used to make upholstery fabrics. The plain weave is strong, versatile and
appropriate for many different fibres and blends of fibres. When any fibre or blend of fibres
is woven together, the visual texture and pattern of the fabric is created. There are two basic
methods of weaving upholstered fabrics: Flat and Pile. These two weaves are the beginning
of all the furniture fabrics. Flat weaves are plain, twills and satins. They have no pile
although they may be course and nubby; shantung, for example, because of the uneven size
of yarns used. Un-patterned fabrics include plain weaves, twills, satins and basket weaves.
Both types of woven fabrics are considered smooth surface materials and resist dust better
than the pile fabrics (Mabey, 2010)
Soller had states that each weave type has its advantages and disadvantages. There is virtually
no difference in the strength of the fabric and its weave. Choose weave based on aesthetics,
how complex the curves are, and the weight of the fabric needed for its application. That
being said, every time each fibre bends over or under another, that very small bend in the
fibre can make "very" tiny strength differences. These differences should generally be
ignored and are only mentioned for accuracy, not for fabric consideration.The fabric's
integrity is maintained by the mechanical interlocking of the yarns. Woven fabrics are
produced by the interlacing of warp and weft in a regular pattern called weave. Plain weave
repeats on two ends and two picks and is firmest due to maximum number of interlacements.
As the weave float increases the interlacement decreases which on the other hand
accommodates more threads per inches. This gives heavier fabrics with higher cover. Some
of the commonly found weave styles used in suiting fabrics which gives desired appearance
and properties are plain, twill and satin(Soller, 2004).

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Besides having a luxurious body and drape, microfiber fabrics are also lightweight and
resilient. They can retain their shape and resist pilling. Compared to other fabrics of similar
weight, they are relatively strong and durable. Since fine yarns can be packed tightly
together, microfiber fabrics have good wind resistance and water repellence. As the number
of filaments in a yarn of given linear density increases, the surface area of all the fibres
increases and the spaces between the fibers get smaller. Liquid water is prevented by surface
tension from penetrating the fabric, which will have a degree of water repellence. On the
other hand, the spaces between the yarns are porous enough to breathe and wick body
moisture way from the body (Lewin M., E. M, 1998, Burkinshaw S. M., 1995, Baumann
J., G. Jerg, 1990, Grayson M., 1984, Dieter Groitzsch, 2001)
2.2 Basic Weave structure type
1) Plain
2) Twill
3) Satin
Woven fabrics are produced as result of interlacing two sets of yarns, warp and weft which
runs lengthwise and crosswise respectively in the fabric. The order of successive movements
between these two sets of yarns determines the physical appearance of the fabric identified as
the weave or the structure. Furthermore, fabric weaves are regarded as the structural pattern
of different fabrics. Without the fabric weave, fabric may never be constructed. How loose,
decorative, tight, nubby or soft a certain fabric is, depends largely on the fabric weave. They
can also cause a huge variance regarding the fabrics durability or strength.Some of the
commonly found weave styles used in suiting fabrics which gives desired appearance and
properties are plain, twill and satin.

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2.2.1 PLAIN WEAVE
The plain weave, it is also called, is the simplest of all types of weave. It is the simplest and
the most used weave. In this case, the warp and weft yarns alternate with each other, i.e. each
weft yarn goes over one warp yarn and under the next warp yarn. Fabrics with plain weave
are reversible unless one side is made the face by finishing or printing. Important Features:
Fabrics with plain weave have firm constructions, tend to wear well and ravel less than
comparable fabrics with other weaves. Since the surface is plain it offers good background
for printed or embossed designs, but the fabrics tend to wrinkle more than fabrics of other
weaves. Here, the threads are woven together one after the other. This weave is one of the
strongest weaves, as the threads are constantly crossing over each other.The fabric has
symmetrical interlacement, with good stability. High level of yam crimp imparts relatively
low mechanical properties compared with the other weaves. It provides reasonable porosity
but poor drape to fabric. With coarser yarn the weave gives excessive crimp therefore it is
used in light weight fabrics.

Figure2. 1 plain weave

2.2.2 TWILL WEAVE

The Twill weave creates a diagonal pattern in the fabric. Weave produces a diagonal line on
the face or the back of the fabric. The direction of the twill can be varied to create interesting
effects such as broken twill, herringbone twill, pointed twill etc. Fabrics made by this weave
are characterized by high strength and compact weaving. Depending on which technique is
used in the weave, the diagonal pattern will get different pitches, and you can thus find Twill
material with different patterns. This type is also the most commonly-used weave for denim(a
textile often made of cotton with distinct diagonal pattern) .

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Plain weave has more compacted yarn density and twill also has more float. As the fabric
exhibits high strength twills are widely used for work clothes and suiting fabrics. It produces
diagonal line on the fabric surface. With reduced crimp the fabric has a smoother surface and
better mechanical properties. Regular Twills are produced in balanced (2/2 gaberdine, 3/3
twill etc.) or unbalanced ( 3/1 twill or drill fabric, 1/3 twill etc). In either category ends and/or
picks are arranged in numerous patterns to give special effect for designing of fabric. In
pointed twill,
the twill line is reversed after half of the repeat while in curved twill any pattern of reversal
and repetition of ends produces curved lines.

Figure2. 2 2D 2/1Twill weaves

2.2.3 SATIN/SATEEN WEAVE

Satin weave is characterized by a smooth, shiny and slippery surface created as a result of
long floats present on its structure. As a result the warp yarns are seen more on the surface of
the fabric. Reflection of light from these yarns give a shine to the fabric. Satin weave requires
5 to 12 harnesses.
Moreover, the yarns used for making this weave have lesser twist as compared to the yarns
used for other weaves. All these together give the fabric a soft, smooth and shiny appear.By
means of transposition or rearrangement of regular twill interlacement satin weaves are
produced. It produces fabrics with a close ‘tight’ weave. Satin is warp faced re-arrangement
while as sateen is weft faced rearrangement. They are used in combination of other weaves
and gives bright appearance and smooth feel.(Fabric Study Students Handbook +
Practical Manual for Class xii).

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 figure2. 3 2D satin weave

2.3 FABRIC PROPERTY

2.3.1 AIR PERMEABILITY
The term comfort is defined as “the absence of unpleasantness or discomfort” or “a neutral
state compared to the more active state” (Clulow, 1987). Comfort mainly is of three types:
sensorial (tactile) comfort, psychological comfort and thermo physiological comfort (Li,
2010; Sule, 2012; Wang, Lui, & Wang, 2010). Thermo physiological comfort is determined
by the air permeability (AP), moisture management and heat transfer regulation properties of
the garment (Chen, Fan, & Zhang, 2003; Frydrych, Dziworska, & Bilska, 2002). Thermal
conductivity is the main factor having strong effect on the skin temperature. The removal of
excessive moisture from the body improves the comfort level. So in warm and humid
environment higher AP increases comfort (Goyal&Prabbhu, 2008). The resistance of a
fabric to air permeability will depend upon the fabric construction, especially density,
thickness and the yarn properties. The differences in structural parameters of fabrics cause
different permeability behaviours at the same environmental conditions . For woven fabric,
yarn twist also important. As twist increases, the circularity and density of the yarn increase,
thus reducing the yarn diameter and the cover factor and increasing air permeability.
Increasing yarn twist also may allow the more circular, high-density yarns to be packed
closely together in a tightly woven structure with reduced air permeability.(Material sciences
and Engineering 254 (2017).

2.3.1.1 FABRIC POROSITY

From the comfort point of view, textile technologist through the proper selection of fibre
content, yarn and fabric construction techniques and finishing treatments must develop the
suitable fabric. The fabric properties depend on fibre properties, yarn structure, fabric
structure and the mechanical and chemical finishing given to fabric. Due to different weave

12
structures the fabric porosity should be different because of interlacement of the warp and
weft yarn, floating of the yarn during interlacement, the crimp of the fabric and other factors.
Satin weave fabrics have the highest value of air permeability following their higher porosity
structure due to its loss structure of the satin weave .
While the compactness of the structure of plain weave reduces the porosity of the fabric,
which results in lower air permeability and twill weave has the lowest value of air
permeability then satin structure and the highest value of air permeability then plain
structures due to open its structure which has large floats of yarns, which is the cause behind
the higher porosity of the fabric (R. TugrulOgulata, 2006).

2.3.2 ABRASION RESISTANCE

Abrasion is the mechanical deterioration of fabric components by rubbing them against

another surface. Abrasion ultimately results in the loss of performance characteristics, such as
strength, but it also affects the appearance of a fabric (Collier, B. J., Epps, H. H.,1999).
Kaynak & Topalbekiroğluhad states that Weave type has a significant effect on abrasion
resistance of the fabrics. Woven fabric properties will differ by changing the weave pattern
which is evaluated not only as an appearance property, but also as a very important structure
parameter. If one set of yarns is predominantly on the surface then this set will wear most;
this effect can be used to protect the load bearing yarns preferentially. Long yarn floats and a
low number of interlacing s cause the continuous contact area of one yarn strand to expand
and this facilitates the yarn to lose its form more easily by providing easier movement as a
result of the rubbing motion. So long floats in a weave such as sateen structures are more
exposed and abrade faster, usually cause breaking of the yarns and increasing the mass loss.
In this way, holding the fibres in the yarn structure becomes harder and the removal of fibre
becomes easier (Kaynak & Topalbekiroğlu, 2008)

13
 Table 2.1:- Fabric properties of samples and Mass values of samples after different rubbing
cycles

Weave Sample code Mass of Mass of sample

type sample after different
before cycles testing
testing 5000 7500 10000 Weight Mean value
loss in
%
Plain P1 0.1796 0.1756 0.1720 0.1690 0.1722/17.22%
P2[17.87%] 0.1778 0.1708 0.1684 0.1665 17.04% 0.1686/16.86%
Twill T1 0.1675 0.1636 0.1614 0.1598 0.1616/16.16%
T2{16.65} 0.1655 0.1597 0.1579 0.1582 16.01% 0.1586/15.86%
Satin S1 0.1746 0.1702 0.1664 0.1632 0.1666/16.66%
S2{17.39} 0.1732 0.1691 0.1652 0.1620 16.6% 0.1654/16.54%

In this study, report an experimental investigation of the abrasion resistance properties of

different weave types of woven fabrics. The abrasion resistances of the fabrics were tested
according to ASTM D 4966-98 Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
Fabrics - Martindale Abrasion Tester Method. We measured the abrasion resistance of the
fabrics with the help of a Martindale Abrasion Tester device. The abrasion resistance was
determined by the mass loss as the difference between the masses before and after abrasion
cycles of 5,000, 7,500, and 10,000. These values were then expressed as a percentage of the
initial mass. In this study, the abrasion resistance of the woven fabric samples was evaluated
by the percentage of fabric weight loss. As the weight loss decreases, the abrasion resistance
of the woven fabrics increases. The weight loss of the woven fabric sample according to
weave structure type and yarn count.

14
The statistical analysis showed the huge influence of the weave type on the weight loss of
woven fabrics. It is known that with the increase of weft yarn count the weight loss
percentage of all types of fabric structure decreases. This is because due to the increase of
weft count. Weight loss percentage is higher for satin weave than twill and plain. The plain
weave is having better abrasion resistance than twill and satin weave due to its low float or
higher interlacements. The mass values of sample weave types for rubbing cycles of 5,000, 7,
500, and 10,000.shows the mean mass loss ratio in % values of different weave types for 3
different rubbing cycles of the abrasion test device.
According to the results of the abrasion test by using different cycles and, weave type has a
significant effect on mass loss. When the weave types used in this study are observed very
different structures are seen. Samples from P1, P2, T1, T2 and S1, S2 comprise a group of S1
and S2 weaves that has high number of floats and low number of interlacing's, and which has
low number of floats and high numbers of interlacing’s while samples P1and P2 are in the
group that have a low number of floats and a high number of interlacing's. Besides these,
samples T1 and T2 constitute a group between these. The Turkey test created groups of
samples according to the effect of weave type on mass loss values.S1 and S2 samples which
have higher value of mass loss in the different rubbing cycles.
Results referred to highly significant effects of type of weave used in extra weft fabrics, picks
arrangement; float length of figuring picks, and number of cycles on abrasion resistance.
Interlacing of plain weave in the ground increased its stability to face the abrasion fatigue; in
addition the increased crowns on fabric surface resulting from plain intersections and the
denser warp threads decreased the depth of vertical abrasion load on each crown while
diagonal cords of twill weaves which were more clearer and prominent reduced withstanding
the abrasion load applied on the fabric surface; most wear were existed on figuring areas. The
probability of weight loss increased by increasing the number of figuring picks compared to
ground picks; replacing ground picks that formed shorter floats with figuring picks that
formed longer floats.

15
Increasing the float length of figuring picks caused prominent of exposure surface under
abrasion load and extended the contact between abrader and fabric surface so the weight loss
grew up. The gradually increase of abrasion cycles reduced the ability of fabrics to resist the
abrasion load but that relationship was nonlinear. (FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe
January / March 2008)

2.3.3 FABRIC STIFFNESS

The resistance offered by a material to a force tending to bend it. It is opposite to drape.
Stiffness is measured by cantilever principle. Stiffness is depended on the bending length.
Shirley Stiffness Tester apparatus (Brand: SDL Atlas, Origin: UK) is used for this
experiments. Sample Size for measuring stiffness was 6inch ×1 inch (For all plain, satin &
twill). Three warp way (face & back) & three weft way (face & back) samples are taken for
the test. Stiffness is a rigidity of an object which means the extent to which it resists
deformation in response to an applied force. It increases with the increase of bending length.
The length of the fabric that will bend under its own weight to a definite extend is termed as
bending length. Stiffness is one of the most widely used parameters to judge bending rigidity
and fabric handling. Fabric stiffness and handling is an important decision factor for the end
users. The degree of fabric stiffness is related to its properties such as fiber material, yarn and
fabric structure. In this work, the effects of weave structure of cotton woven fabrics on fabric
stiffness were investigated.
The statistical analysis proved that stiffness of cotton woven fabrics has been affected
significantly at 0.01 significance level by both weave structure and weft density. Weft density
has a profound influence on fabric stiffness. An increasing trend was detected assuring that as
the weft density increases fabric stiffness increases. This is because the increase in fabric
tightness with the increase in weft density, which in turn increases fabric stiffness.(Life Sci J
2012).

16
2.3.4 STRENGTH
Breaking strength: Force required breaking a fabric when it is under tension. The tensile
strength deals with the force required to break a large number of yarn simultaneously in
either warp or weft direction. The force at which the material breaks is directly proportional
to cross-section. The tensile force recorded at moment of rupture is termed as the tensile
strength at break tenacity.
Tensile strength is one of the most important mechanical properties for woven fabrics. To
quantify the tensile strength of a piece of fabric, two testing methods are often used, namely
the grab test and the strip test. Each testing method has its own advantages and drawbacks.
Specimens in the grab test are easier to prepare, and the testing condition is closer to the load
application on a fabric in practical use. However, the results of the grab test may not be as
accurate and interpretable as those of the strip test, but the preparation of unravelled strip
specimens usually takes up time (Bassett, R. J.etal.,1999, Eeg-Olofsson etal.,1948, Pan,
N.,,2003).

Both testing methods have been standardized as the ASTM standard D5034-95 for the grab
test and D5035-95 for the strip test, respectively. Given the wide application of both testing
methods, it is desirable to establish the relationship between these two methods from both
theoretical and experimental viewpoints. A few studies have been reported work towards
establishing the relationship between the grab and strip tests. These early investigations
attempted to explore the relationship from empirical approaches (Eeg-Olofsson, T.,etal,1948,
Walen, E. D,1916).

17
 CHAPTEER THREE

4. MATERIAL AND METHODOLOGY

Steps to perform this research is as follows

Data collection

Data analysis

Result and Discussion

Recommendation and Conclusion

Data collection techniques
 Observation and Recording
 Document review
 Interviews & questionnaire from different persons
3.1 Materials
The required fabric samples of woven fabrics were collected from KTSC Fabric Unit,
Kombolcha, Ethiopia. In this research Full bleached cotton woven fabric with different weave
structure (plain, twill and satin)will be used to test with various physical characters of the
same EPC/PPC, Count, width and length of fabric.
Table 3.1 Constructional parameters of fabrics under study
Sample number Weave structure Yarn count Thread density
1. Plain Warp =34 EPI=24
Weft =34 PPI=20
2. Twill Warp =34 EPI=24
Weft =34 PPI=20
Satin Warp =34 EPI=24
3. Weft=34 PPI=20

18
3.2 METHODOLOGY
3.2.1 EXPERMENTAL FLOW CHART

Procurement of Fabric Sample

 Air permeability(ASTM D-737)
 Abrasion resistance (ASTM D
Test the sample based on ASTM standard 4966)
 Tensile strength(ASTM D5035)
 Fabric stiffness (ASTM D1388)
Report preparation

1. Preparation of the same fabric sample(specimen) with in different weave structures

such as plain, twill and satin with in the same thread density, yarn count and other
properties.
2. After preparation of test specimen, all the fabric is tested in the standard testing
atmosphere 65% Relative Humidity and temperature 20±2ºC Temperature and
following test are done to assess the physical properties. All the physical properties
are tested accordingly in the different weave structures by using there testers. Tensile
strength: Testing method is used for testing of tensile properties of fabrics and
determination of maximum force was done using the grab method. The apparatus
tensile strength tester is used for the experiment. ASTM D 4966 Textiles-
Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale method:
Martindale abrasion testing apparatus (Brand: SDL Atlas, Origin: UK) was used for
this experiment. Sample Size and the same step should be follow for the remaining
physical characters. The fabric stiffness also tested by using sherily stiffness tester.
The SDL Atlas air permeability tester automatically measures the flow of air through
a given area of a fabric under a set of controlled variables.

19
3.3 TESTS FOR FABRIC SAMPLE

Table 3.2 ASTM Standard

TEST TYPE ASTM /AATCC/BIS

Air permeability ASTM –D-737

Stiffness ASTM D1388
Abrasion resistance ASTM D 4966
Tensile strength ASTM D5035

3.3.1 AIR PERMEABILITY TEST

Air permeability is expressed as the velocity of air passing through a known area under a
prescribed air pressure; The SDL Atlas air permeability tester automatically measures the
flow of air through a given area of a fabric under a set of controlled variables: a selected
orifice, specific pressure drop and designated test area as shown in figure. This tester is
suitable for most fabrics including woven, nonwoven, air bag fabrics, layered and pile
fabrics. This mobile air permeability tester offers compact and solid design, table and arm
that will accommodate larger samples. Its pressure system determines air pressure range
automatically detecting and calibrating to the head that has been installed, reporting data on
LED display. It depends upon the count of yarn, constriction of fabric and weight per square
unit of the fabric. if the warp and the weft count of two fabrics are identical then the fabric
having more threads per square inch give poor air permeability then lower threads count
fabric. if the threads count per square inch of two fabrics is the same, then the fabric made of
coarse count yarn gives poor air permeability.

20
 Figure3. 1 air permeability tester

4.3.2 FABRICS STIFFNESS TEST

Stiffness is one of the most widely used parameters to judge bending rigidity and fabric
handling. Fabric stiffness and handling is an important decision factor for the end users. The
degree of fabric stiffness is related to its properties such as fiber material, yarn and fabric
structure. In this work, the effects of weave structure in cotton woven fabrics on stiffness
were tested. Stiffness is measured by cantilever principle. Stiffness is depended on the
bending length. Shirley Stiffness Tester apparatus (Brand: SDL Atlas, Origin: UK) is used for
this experiments. Sample Size for measuring stiffness was 6inch ×1 inch (For both plain &
twill). Three warp way (face & back) & three weft way (face & back) samples are taken for
the test. The length of the fabric that will bend under its own weight to a definite extend is
termed as bending length. The more the bending length the higher the stiffness, lower the
draping. The bending length is a measure of the interaction between fabric weights and fabric
stiffness in which a fabric bends under its own weight. It reflects the stiffness of a fabric
when bent in one plane under the force of gravity, and is one component of drape. Thus
bending length is also called drape stiffness. A form the cantilever stiffness test is often used
as a measure of a fabric's stiffness as it is an easy test to carry out. In the test a horizontal
strip of fabric is clamped at one end and the rest of the strip allowed to hang under its own
weight. This is shown diagrammatically in Fig.

21
 Figure3. 2 Fabric stiffness tester

Key for

s. Slide
P. polished surface
D. mark
L1 and L2 Two scribed lines Where L = length of fabric projecting,
Ѳ= angle fabric bends to

3.3.3 ABRASION RESISTANCE

Abrasion is the rubbing away of the component fibers and yarns of the fabric. Martindale
abrasion test refers to the testing of textile products according to Martindale standard system
and tests the abrasion resistance of the fabric through the test. Abrasion resistance refers to
the resistance of fabric to other materials in the process of repeated friction with other
materials. Martindale abrasion tester is used to test the abrasion and pilling resistance of
fabric. The abrasion of experimental samples will examin by martindale abrasion. The rubbe
samples diamter =140 mm under pressure load = 12 kilopascal, rubbing speed = 250rpm,
with three cycles numbers 5000, 7500, and 10000. The number of abrasion cycles will adde
as fourth independent variable. The significance effects of independent parameter on weight
loss of experimental fabrics will estimate by factorial analysis of variance.

22
 Figure:-3. 3 Martindale Abrasion Testers

Cutting sample by circular cutter

3.3.3.1 Flow of abrasion test Weighing catted sample on electronic

balance

Fitting sample on its holder on machine

Setting machine parameters

After completion of set revolution,

taking the sample from machine

Weighing the weight

In ASTM D 4966, the uniform abrasion testing machine is used. In the apparatus, a specimen
is mounted in a holder and abraded uniformly in all directions in the plane and about every
point of the surface of the specimen. The Uniform Abrasion Tester, consists of the abradant
mounted at the lower end of a shaft, weights placed on the upper end of the shaft to produce
constant pressure between abradant and specimen throughout the test, lever and cam for
raising and lowering the abradant, shaft, and weights.

23
3.3.4 TENSILE STRENGTH:-
It was achieved by using TENSO lab universal tensile strength tester in accordance with
ASTM D5035 fabric traction strip standard. In this test, five samples each having a size of
20cm×5cm were cut and tested for both machine direction and cross direction and the
average results were recorded. This test is used to indicate the maximum amount of resistance
force required for rupture of a fabric. Five different types of tensile strength and elongation
tests were done for each type of samples under study for both longitudinal and cross direction
of the woven fabric samples. We will prepare five specimens in each of warp and (weft)
filling directions were prepared by raveling down to 1 Inch width.
The Instron tester (strength tester) will set to 3 inches gage length, 1 Inch per minute
crosshead speed and 5 Inches per minute chart speed. Breaking load and elongation were read
directly from the given data which we will prepared. Tensile Strength is the Ratio between
the maximum load that can a material support without fracture and the original cross-
sectional area of the material is called Tensile Strength.

Figure 3. 4:- tensile strength tester

24
 CHAPTER FOUR
RESULT AND DISCUSION
4.1 SCOURING AND BLEACHING OF THE FABRIC

Scouring:-Alkaline scour boiling is a cleaning process for cellulosic fibers using large
quantities of caustic soda at high temperature, and special chemical products to remove the
natural impurities in cotton and other cellulosic fibers. It frees them from troubling
substances and makes them absorbent. At the same time, vegetable contamination swells
perfectly and is softened for rapid de-coloration during bleaching. Alkaline scour boiling is
an intermediate process carried out after enzymatic desizing and before peroxide bleaching.
Even if the quantity of impurities is not high, it is essential to eliminate it to avoid negative
effects in subsequent finishing processes. Fats and waxes prevent penetration of the water
soluble dye and mineral substances can cause precipitation of the dye or during bleaching in
the presence of iron annoying catalytic damage. It is also essential to eliminate vegetable
residues as well as the proteins and other substances present in the fiber.
Hydrophobicity: property of a grey fabric to repel water because it contains the natural cotton
waxes and fats which have to be saponified.
Hydrophobicity: property of a scour boiled fabric to absorb water. The caustic soda
saponifies the hydrophobic fats to soap. The textile material can be dyed.
Table 4 1:- Recipes of scouring procsses

Fabric Alkaline(NaoH)m/l Wetting Mlr Treating Temperature(C0)

Agent Duration(Min)
780 gm 13 2 1:10 60 70

25
 Figure 4. 1:- during scouring processes

Bleaching:- The last phase of purification of cotton, bleaching, is the most visible. After this
treatment the natural yellowish and brownish pigments, and the vegetable impurities in the
cotton disappear. The bleaching reaction takes place in the following way: a strong oxidizing
agent, hydrogen peroxide, destroys the chromophoric groups of the natural dyes in the cotton.
Decolouration takes place and the material looks whiter.
This bleaching of cotton is made more difficult by the presence of seeds and vegetable
residues, which are darker in color than the cotton; intensive bleaching would still be
necessary to eliminate these disturbing vegetable fragments. Compared to the other bleaching
agents used (sodium hypochlorite, sodium chlorite, sodium permanganate, etc.) hydrogen
peroxide is the most efficient and, at the same time, the one which causes the least
environmental pollution.
Stabilization of hydrogen peroxide
The bleaching process is a complex reaction mechanism because hydrogen peroxide has to be
activated and stabilized at the same time. Caustic soda activates hydrogen per oxide and
favours the formation of hydroxo- per oxideions. The stabilizer orients the peroxo-anions
towards oxidation of the natural colored pigments in the cotton, and at the same time, avoids
or limits side reactions such as the formation of molecular oxygen (loss of whiteness) or the
oxidation of the cellulose (loss to peroxide and currently require extended rinsing and/or use
of chemical scavengers after bleaching.

26
Traditionally, bleach removal is achieved by either several rinses in water or by neutralization
of the bleaching chemical by a reducing agent, followed by rinsing in water. Hydrogen
peroxide as well as reducing agents used for bleach clean-up can also interfere with the
subsequent dyeing steps and must also be rinsed away.
Table 4 2 :-Recipes for bleaching

H2O2 Wetting : Sodium Temperature PH Time

(35%) agent: M:L Silicate
4.5 g/l 1:10 10 2_7 g/l 700 11 60’’

Figure 4. 2:-dryinng and dying of the given fabric

Figure 4. 2:- bleached fabric

27
 4.2 Air permeability Analysis
Table 4 .3:- Structural properties of fabric samples (Air permeability)

Weave pattern Thread Density Yarn Count Fabric Unit Weight

(threads/cm) (Ne) (g/m2)
Plain warp 24 34 180
weft 20 34 180
Twill warp 24 34 180
weft 20 34 180
Satin warp 24 34 180
weft 20 34 180

The relationship between air permeability and structural parameters of fabric samples .When
the effect of the yarn twist level on the air permeability of the fabric samples was examined,
it was seen that the air permeability values increased as the yarn twist increased. It has been
observed that air permeability is increased in fabric samples using fine yarn, even though the
fabric weft density is increasing. Weave type and yarn density are important factors affecting
air permeability, too. The highest air permeability values were obtained in satin fabrics.
It can be observed in test results that longer the weave float, greater will be the air
permeability, because longer weave float means less number of interlacements per unit area
and where there are less number of interlacements which allow the air to pass through more
freely. It can be concluded that by increasing the weave float like 1/7 sateen fabric samples,
air permeability of the fabric was increased. The plain woven fabrics are dense and firm as
compared to the 1/3 twill and 1/7 satin, making air passage more difficult. So 1/3 twill and
1/7 satin weave design showed more air permeability as compared to the plain weave design.
But if in case of plain fabric which have low weft density yields high air permeability. Cotton
fabric has low thermal conductivity; therefore it is ideal material for both summer and winter
clothes.

28
It prevents skin from heat in summer and preserves warmth of body in winter. Air
permeability is very important for thermo physiological comfort of cloths. The resistance of a
traditional textile fabric and garment to air permeability will largely depend upon the fabric
construction especially density, porosity, thickness and yarn twist factor. It can be observed
in test results that longer the weave float, greater will be the air permeability, because longer
weave float means less number of interlacements per unit area and where there are less
number of interlacements which allow the air to pass through more freely Yarn twist factor
has an important influence on air permeability of fabrics. Most of the fabrics showed
increased air permeability as the yarn twist factor increased. Twist is the measure of the spiral
turns given to a yarn in order to hold the constituent fibres or threads together. It is necessary
to give a yarn coherence and strength. When a large twist is given to a yarn, it becomes
compact and spaces in it are increased making the fabric more air permeable In this study, it
has been shown that the increase of yarn counts and yarn twist led to an increase in air
permeability values of cotton woven fabrics. Also, cotton woven fabrics with 1/7 sateen
weave have the maximum air permeability value; these fabrics are followed by the fabrics
having weave types of plain and 1/3 twill in spite of increase weft density.
4.3 TENSILE TEST

Tensile strength testing procedures

1. For doing the tensile strength test ASTM D5035 method will use.
2. A fabric specimen of 65 mm length and 5 mm (5*65) width will prepare.
3. Then the two end of fabric will place into two jaw of strength tester.
4. Pretension 2N was maintain.
5. Jaw Size will be check.
6. Then the fabrics start to stretch.
7. At a certain point fabric will slightly crack through the middle horizontal line.
8. Finally, the result shown on screen will reach.

29
 Figure 4. 3 :- Tested samples in KTSC
TENSILE TEST RESULT
Table 4. 4:- Tensile Test Result Values

Fabric type Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3 Average

Strength Elongatio Strengt Elongatio Streng elongatio Strengt elongati
(N) n h(N) n th(N) n h(N) on

Warp 610 26 550 26 590 26 583.3 26

Satin Weft 340 23 390 25 370 26 366.6 24.6
Warp 550 21 590 21 570 21 573.3 21
Twill Weft 250 20 260 21 280 22 263.3 21
Warp 350 24 440 26 390 25 393.3 25
Plain Weft 280 23 290 25 270 21 280 23

4.3.1 CALCULATIONS OF TENSILE STRENGTH FOR EACH WEAVE

T.s of plain fabric= max load in warp +max load in weft/cross sectional area (5*65)
T.s=440+290/5*65
=730/325=2.246

30
T.s of satin fabric= max load in warp +max load in weft/cross sectional area (5*65)
T.s=610+390/325
=1000/325=3.0769

T. s of twill fabric= max load in warp +max load in weft/cross sectional area(5*65)
T.s =590+280/325
=870/325=2.6769
700
600
500
400
PLAIN
300
TWILL
200
SATIN
100
0
warp weft warp weft
stength elongation

After having get all the testing result, they were compared manually, which is shown in the
table above. The most crucial thing is that, it was performed manually. Due to structure
changes satin weave provided best strength than others, and it was followed by twill, and
Plain weave. plain placed its position in the bottom of the list. It can be further explained in
several ways, there are as follows: when fabric is stretched in lone direction (uniaxial load),
at first the crimp in that direction declines. Fabric is relatively easy to expand during crimp
diminish. After that, the yarn material initiates bearing the load which would trim down the
extension tempo of the fabric. Meanwhile, crimp is decreasing in one direction (load
direction), it amplifies in the reverse direction. Owing to the crimp, the fabric strength is less
than the strength of twisted yarns; because of the twist in the yarn, the yarn strength is less
than the strength of fibers.

31
However, having higher interlacement, plain weave fabrics have the maximum crimp, so very
little amount slippage of fibers happened in the yarn. This is the reason, why plain weaves
show low strength. In satin weaves, groups of yarns have woven together which causes a bit
higher strength compare to plain weave.
The yarns are not held in firmly in twill weave structure as in the plain weave. The stress and
strains are disseminated over more yarns. This provides greater strength.
The tensile strength of plain fabrics are minor than satin and twill weave, this is primarily due
to larger floats in the weave structures.
The warp yarn has more strength than the weft yarn. In the fabric construction, the warp yarn
is more firmly sized; there is low crimp as well as the presence of ends is more than the picks.
In a nutshell, it can be said that, the weft yarn has less tensile strength than the warp yarn.

4.4 ABRASION RESISTANCE

As many literatures we observed that the huge influence of the weave type on the weight loss
of woven fabrics. It is known that with the increase of weft yarn count the weight loss
percentage of all types of fabric structure decreases. This is because due to the increase of
weft count. Weight loss percentage is higher for satin weave than twill and plain. The plain
weave is having better abrasion resistance than twill and satin weave due to its low float or
higher interlacements. The probability of weight loss increased by increasing the number of
figuring picks compared to ground picks; replacing ground picks that formed shorter floats
with figuring picks that formed longer floats. On the abrasion resistance property of different
weave types showed that weave type has a significant effect on mass loss values. The test
results indicated that long yarn floats and a low number of interlacings decrease the abrasion
resistance of woven fabrics by increasing the mass loss. Different fabric weaves differentiate
the structure of fabrics, and these different structural properties of fabrics will cause the
fabrics to behave differently from each other. In this way, woven fabric properties will differ
by changing the weave pattern. A fabric pattern must be evaluated not only as an appearance
property, but also as a very important structure parameter. Fabric properties are influenced
with the wide range of this structure parameter.

32
One of the results of abrasion is the gradual removal of fibres from yarns. Therefore, the
factors that affect the cohesion of yarns will influence their abrasion resistance .
The float length in woven fabrics can affect their resistance to abrasion. Long floats in a
weave are more exposed and will abrade faster, usually breaking the yarns. For example, a
satin weave fabric will abrade more easily than a twill weave

4.5 STIFFNESS TEST PROCUDERS AND RESULT

Three test specimens (plain, twill and satin) and Rectangular specimens of dimensions 25 mm
X 200 mm should be cut from the conditioned sample; three specimens should be cut with the
length parallel to the warp and three more with length parallel to weft and should be
conditioned at 65 ± 2% relative humidity and 20 ± 2°C (70 ± 2°F) before testing.
Apparatus and Materials
 Shirley stiffness tester
 Scissors,
 Fabric thickness tester,
 Fabric weight determination apparatus.
 Fabric
PROCEDURE

1. Place the stiffness tester on a level surface with the mirror towards the
observer.
2. Place the specimen (25X200) on the platform with one end coincident with the
front upper edge of the platform.
3. The slide is placed on the specimen so that the zero of the scale is in line with
the notch.

33
4. The slide is pushed forward at a uniform rate, carrying the specimen with it,
until by looking in the mirror it is seen that the end edge of the specimen is in
line with the two scribed lines at 41.5 to the horizontal.
5. If the specimen twists the mid-point of the end is aligned with the lines.
6. The operation is repeated with the other side up and again at the other end of
the specimen (that is the specimen is tested at both ends, then flipped over and
tested again).
7. Observation to be recorded is the bending length in each case, read directly
from the scale.
8. Repeat the same procedure
9. The average of the readings for the warp and weft directions is reported.

Figure 4. 4:- Sample preparation

34
 Figure 4. 5:- sample testing

Table 4.6:-stiffness result tests

Weave Warp Weft
type Bending Bending

Warp Warp Average Weft Weft Average length(c) for length (c) for

face back face back warp weft

(c)=lf(θ)=𝑙/ (c)=lf(θ)=𝑙/
2 2
PLAIN 3.7 3.68 3.69 4.73 4.85 4.79 3.69/2=1.845 4.79/2=2.395

TWILL 3.61 3.63 3.62 4.7 4.75 4.72 3.62/2=1.81 4.72/2=2.36

SATIN 3.51 3.42 3.46 4.53 4.38 4.45 3.46/2=1.73 4.45/2=2.22

35
 Actual bending length (c)=lf(θ), f(θ)={ /8𝑡𝑎𝑛𝜃}1/3 =1/2

(c)=𝑙/2
The more the bending length the higher the stiffness, lower the draping. The bending length
is a measure of the interaction between fabric weights and fabric stiffness in which a fabric
bends under its own weight. It reflects the stiffness of a fabric when bent in one plane under
the force of gravity, and is one component of drape. Thus bending length is also called drape
stiffness. As we have seen above the table {4.6} bending length of plain weave is much
higher 3.7 mm in warp way face side and 3.68mm in back side compared to twill weave and
satin. However the illustrates the similar pattern that is plain weave has higher bending length
compared to the other weave structure.
Here stiffness of twill and satin weave is less as it contain less interlacement point and having
of long floats as well as more porous & flexible (drape). On the other hand, bending length of
weft way face side fabric is following the similar pattern for plain more than 4.73mm, for
twill exactly 4.7mm and for satin4.53mm, it decreased to different values respectively. As a
result it is clear that, stiffness is reduced with the increase of interlacement points. Fabric
with more interlacement point such as plain weave is stiffer than twill and satin weave
structure. But not the warp and weft sides of the weaves are higher in there bending length
also higher is the plain weave in warp way and weft way average for warp way 1.845,
1.81and 1.73 and in weft way 2.395, 2.375 and 2.22.
So the bending length of plain cotton woven fabrics has higher in values compared to another
weave types which have the same yarn count and thread density.

36
6

stiffness warp
3
stiffness weft
2

0
PLAIN TWILL SATIN

37
 CHAPTER FIVE
5. CONCULUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS

5.1 CONCULUSION
The effect of weave structures on different physical properties of cotton woven fabrics with
the same thread densities and yarn counts (plain, twill and satin weave structures) were
investigated. The results of the research can be summarized as follows: - Fabric tensile
strength were significantly affected by float, yarn slippage during testing. Cotton fabric has
low thermal conductivity; therefore it is ideal material for both summer and winter clothes. It
prevents skin from heat in summer and preserves warmth of body in winter. Air permeability
is very important for thermo physiological comfort of cloths. The resistance of a traditional
textile fabric and garment to air permeability will largely depend upon the fabric construction
especially density, porosity, thickness and yarn twist factor. It can be observed in test results
that longer the weave float, greater will be the air permeability, because longer weave float
means less number of interlacements per unit area and where there are less number of
interlacements which allow the air to pass through more freely Yarn twist factor has an
important influence on air permeability of fabrics. Most of the fabrics showed increased air
permeability as the yarn twist factor increased. Twist is the measure of the spiral turns given
to a yarn in order to hold the constituent fibres or threads together. It is necessary to give a
yarn coherence and strength. When a large twist is given to a yarn, it becomes compact and
spaces in it are increased making the fabric more air permeable and on the abrasion resistance
property of different weave types showed that weave type has a significant effect on mass
loss values. The test results indicated that long yarn floats and a low number of interlacing
decrease the abrasion resistance of woven fabrics by increasing the mass loss. Fabric with
more interlacement point such as plain weave is stiffer than twill and satin weave structure.
But not the warp and weft sides of the weaves are higher in there bending length also higher
is the plain weave in warp way and weft way average for warp way 1.845, 1.81and 1.73 and
in weft way 2.395, 2.375 and 2.22.So the bending length of plain cotton woven fabrics has

38
higher in values compared to another weave types which have the same yarn count and thread
density.

5.2 RECOMMENDATION
 From the research it is observed that test different physical properties with
various weave structure of cotton fabric will compared with other synthetic
fabric for better comparison.

5.2.1 FUTURE WORK

 For future by adding various parameters in addition to this in order to get
better result in comfort properties with various weave structure of the cotton
fabric.
 Physical properties tests like tear strength, drape, crimp, Crease Recovery may
necessary to enhance the strength of the given fabric with various weave
structure.

39
 CHAPTER SIX
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