Meghalaya Tourism: Jaintia Hills
Meghalaya Tourism: Jaintia Hills
JAINTIA HILLS
A garden of monoliths, boats floating on crystal-clear waters, curtains of waterfalls over
weathered rocks tucked in a secret forest – these are images that the Jaintia Hills conjures.
Meghalaya’s eastern section has been in the thick of North-eastern history, being mentioned in
the chronicles of the Ahoms and other neighbouring cultures. The Jaintia Hills also provide the
mesmeric scenery that one expects from Meghalaya as routes dart between highland meadows
and steep tropical landscapes.
DAWKI – SHNONGDENG
Dawki is a border town in the south of Meghalaya and a great base to explore nearby
Shnongpdeng and Darrang – famous riverside camps. You will witness a blend of cultures and
changing topography as the hills merge into the plains of Northern Bangladesh. Some of the
evening scenery here is stunning as you watch the lights glow above the neighbouring plains
over the gentle, dark river. Shnongpdeng Village is 8 kms north of Dawki along the winding
Umngot. Waters so clear, you can peer into the bottom and count the stones – that is how the
Umngot River can be described during the peak pre-monsoon, autumn, and winter seasons.
Whether you want to enjoy a gentle boat ride through a stretch flanked by forests or you want to
take a dip into the river in scuba gear, the activities in Shnongpdeng will keep you occupied for
days.
Camping, swimming, and fishing are some of the fun outdoor activities in Shnongpdeng. You
can indulge in one of the most thrilling ziplines and rappel down one of the many striking rock
formations that line up the Umngot.
A bridge that spans the Umngot allows for fantastic pictures and perspectives and there are
picnic spots near the river. There are plenty of recognized resorts and camps in Dawki,
Shnongpdeng, and surrounding areas. Ensure that all your water activities are done with expert
supervision and necessary safety gear.
KRANGSHURI FALLS
Compared to the cliff-hugging plunge falls that you will find in Southern Meghalaya, the
Krangshuri waterfall features a different aesthetic. A placid river suddenly drops, creating a
curtain of flowing water that falls over a cave.
From afar, Krangsuri is a sight that will make you think of the Jungle Book. During the summer,
blue, clear waters can be seen at the bottom of the waterfalls which itself is located in the
middles of a thickly forested area.
The walk down to Krangshuri is a pleasant descent – you begin on an open meadow and slowly
climb down into more defined shrub and vegetation. There are railings around the falls where
you can get a good view and you can also inquire about the boating facilities there. Upstream is a
small space where people can camp, surrounded by lush green vegetation and with the gentle
ripple of the river for company. On calm sunny days, you can enjoy a dip in the pool of the
waterfall after renting life jackets. Shutterbugs will certainly enjoy strolling around the
surrounding hills looking for a vantage point, of which there are many. Just make sure you watch
your step and wear footwear with good grip as the rocks around the water can be slippery.
Getting there – The 90-km drive to Krangshuri from Shillong via the NH6 and NH206 is a
riveting one – highways looping around the gentle hills, punctuated by hamlets and small towns.
There are plenty of eating choices for those who are ready to try local food.
KUDENGRIM
The highway roads flanked by paddy fields and pine-crested hillocks give way to steep slopes as
one descends into Kudengrim, a cosy village perched in the Jaintia Hills. There are some
quintessential Meghalayan sights and experiences on offer – with the knowledgable and friendly
residents always there to guide you.
Kudengrim’s first main attraction is a twenty-minute hike from the main village. Make your way
through a tranquil forest and tread under a dense canopy before you reach a magnificent wide-
brimmed, segmented waterfall, the scene straight out of an adventure movie. Close to the
cascade is a fascinating example of Meghalaya’s famous living architecture – the Kudengrim
Living Root Bridge. Admire the two-levelled bridge, created by weaving the roots of the Ficus
Elastica trees, the giant guardians of the forests here.
As you follow the course of the stream, you will encounter another beautiful waterfall, flowing
like a curtain over the natural granite walls. Prepare to get a little wet as you negotiate bamboo
paths and stream crossings to reach the Mukhre Step Falls, to complete the trio of waterfalls on
this scenic hike. Catch some nice views from the bamboo skywalk and canopy hut.
There is a lot of walking involved for those who seek the complete Kudengrim experience so
make sure that you are equipped with the right footwear and apparel. We always recommend
visitors to look for homestay options in the village itself so you can rest easy and enjoy the
heavenly surroundings more.
NARTIANG MONOLITHS
The Jaintia districts of Meghalaya have a distinct royal history and Nartiang is one of the best
places to see well-preserved remnants from this glorious chapter. The garden of monoliths
features a collection of large monoliths that were erected as monuments for the old kings. There
is a small winding path that twists through and around the looming monoliths, providing a
chance for you to explore and soak in the surreal scenes. You will also get decent views of the
town from this heritage site.
Some of these stones were erected half a millennia ago and additions were made till the middle
of the nineteenth century. The monoliths provide a captivating sight – arguably the largest
collection of monoliths in a single place and loaded with so much historical and cultural
significance. The standing monoliths or menhirs are dedicated to the male ancestors while the
flat ones, the dolmens, are dedicated to the women.
KHASI HILLS
Meghalaya’s highest elevations occur in the Khasi Hills and the southern edge is home to the
planet’s rainiest stretches. People have been visiting destinations like Sohra and Mawsynram for
generations to witness the madness of the monsoons while cosmopolitan Shillong offers a
distinct blend of small-town charm mixed with a modern urban vibe. The Khasi Hills offer
extremes – whether you want to conquer a raging rapid, take a scenic road trip, sleep under the
stars or lounge in a café with a book – there are options for all.
SOHRA
Sohra has stories hidden all over – in its rivers, cascades, and mist-shrouded hill-tops. It is also
the place where civilizations met, the cultural capital of the Khasis and the gateway of the
colonial age. The terrain comes alive during the monsoons while the drier months are all about
blue skies and scenic hikes and treks. The region around Sohra is synonymous with waterfalls –
the plunging Nohkalikai and the thunderous Dainthlen are settings for immortal Khasi folktales
while the three-tiered Wei Saw Dong is tucked away in a verdant forest. Sohra provides layers of
sights and adventures – the more time you spend here, the more surprises you will encounter.
You have a wide range of stay options in Sohra, from the luxurious Jiva and Polo Orchid resorts
to cosy homestays that allow you to soak in the local vibes. Destinations around Sohra include
Nongriat and Khat-ar-shnong.
MAWSYNRAM
Ever thought of a place where waterfalls are so plentiful that they become a nuisance? That can
be the scene on the highway to the famed town of Mawsynram when your vehicle might just
have to drive right through a monsoon cascade falling from the mountainside.
The Mawsynram plateau region has received enough attention for its world-record rainfall but
there are many more unique sights here. Krem Puri is the longest sandstone cave in the world.
Getting to the entry requires a steep descent down one of the valley slopes. The labyrinth has just
been recently mapped and visitors need to go in with proper caving gear and with a local guide.
Wildlife enthusiasts can head over to Phlangwanbroi village and trek deep into the jungle, known
for its protected populations of the Hoolock Gibbon. Krem Dam, a large cave with an
underground waterway and beaches is another famous site that will inspire the spelunker in you.
One of the best places for adventurers to visit when in the Mawsynram region is Mawlyngbna,
known for the pretty Umkhakoi lake and as a hub for water activities like kayaking and
swimming. Weiing Lakeside Camp in nearby Phlang Mawsyrpat village is a favoured place for
serious travellers who want to spend time in this captivating region of Meghalaya. When in
Mawlyngbna, do not miss the celebrated fossil sites – evidence of the place’s underwater history
that goes back millions and millions of years. The Split Rock is one of the more curious
attractions – a giant rock split into two, the event attributed to the devastating Magnitude-8
Assam earthquake of 1897.
Enroute to Mawsynram, the legendary Lum Symper hill and the Mawjymbuin caves are popular
stops. There are community-run lodges and homestays in many villages here and visitors are
recommended to spend a night here at least so they can enjoy some fresh nature trails and bird
watching in the mornings.
Major Spots:
Mawlyngbna
Phlangmawsyrpat
Mawsynram Town
Krem Puri
Phlangwanbroi
MAWLYNNONG VILLAGE
Mawlynnong has earned a reputation for being one of the cleanest villages in Asia, but a
sobriquet that does more justice is that of God’s Own Garden. The fruit orchards, the rushing
streams, the evergreen surroundings, the swaying palms, and the well-preserved traditions of the
Khasis provide a picture-perfect stage on the edge of Meghalaya’s southern ranges.
Arguably the most famous icon of Meghalaya is found here – the Nohwet Living Root Bridge.
The bridge was created by weaving the roots of the Ficus Elastica tree around a framework and
continuing this process for generations. These living root bridges are a staple of Khasi traditional
architecture and were important for the villages in the steep valleys and mountains, helping the
people connect with each other and travel to the plains to trade. These fascinating bridges are
built in harmony with nature and get stronger as they grow older. After admiring the bridge, you
can also take a dip in the gushing, cool waters of the river.
The living root bridge of Nohwet is not the only main attraction here. The Church of the
Epiphany in Mawlynnong is more than a century old, a beautiful piece of European architecture
tucked in the middle of this lush and verdant tropical paradise. Taste your fear of heights and
climb up the tree houses close to the church. From these bamboo structures, you can gaze at the
seemingly endless plains of Bangladesh that lay just beyond.
GARO HILLS
‘Wild and verdant’ is an apt phrase to sum up the Garo Hills. This western chunk of Meghalaya
is home to most of the wild species that are found in the state – from wild pachyderm herds and
the enigmatic Hoolock gibbon to elusive predators. The Nokrek Biosphere Reserve is one of the
most prized eco-systems in the country while Balpakram is not only an adventurer’s delight, it is
also home to many myths and legends. Angling enthusiasts will love exploring the riverine
patches and the Garo Hills is also known for its unique traditions and cuisine.
BALPAKRAM
Balpakram, ‘the land of perpetual winds’, may not be well-known to the outside world but it is
an important part of Garo folklore. Its unchartered jungles, massive cliffs, and powerful rivers
have birthed many stories of the paranormal type, including that of the stalking ‘mandeburung’,
or man of the jungle, straight out of the cryptozoologist’s handbook. If these tales don’t inspire
you to tread through its forest paths, Balpakram National Park is also a treasure trove of animal
and plant life, including the endangered wild water buffalo. Designated as the land of the spirits
by local lore, a Balpakram experience blends the natural with the mystical.
As you travel along the scenic Garo countryside, watch out for the surprises along the way –
including an abundance of pitcher plants, an insectivorous enigma that will interest any botanist.
The mighty Simsang River defines the landscape. For entrance to the park, you will have to get
your permissions from the park office at Chitmang House on the outskirts of the forest. There are
safari jeeps available to take you to the popular spots that are accessible to visitors. On the
plateau-top, you will get expansive views of the National Park’s main canyon and the many
waterfalls that barrage down from the cliff-side. Despite its comparatively small size, Balpakram
is considered the last stand of the rarest plant and animal species not found anywhere else.
During winters, you can enjoy sightings of animals like elephants and it is also the time for
ground orchids to bloom.
TURA PEAK
At close to 900 metres above sea level, Tura Peak is a haven for nature lovers and those
interested in bird watching and photography. The hills around Tura are thriving with life –
species like hornbills and gibbons are just some of the many treasures of this diverse and rich
landscape. A trip to Tura Peak brings you up close to the beauty, as you climb up to one of the
highest points in the district.
The moderately difficult Tura Peak hike – most visitors complete the journey in an hour or
ninety minutes – is filled with scenery. The thick vegetation of the middle range gives way to
cooler, temperate scenery as you approach the top. There is a tower on the summit from where
you can soak in some stunning vistas of the town and the ranges beyond. Spot the winding
Jinjiram River as it careens through the hills and drains into the western plains.
There are multiple routes that lead to Tura Peak. Early morning hikes are recommended as you
can then listen to the orchestra of the forest in full flow – the chirping of myriad birds backed up
by the hoots of the mysterious Hoolock gibbons. Carry binoculars for animal sightings along
with lots of water.
Are you still up for more exploration around the amazing town for Tura. 13 km west of Tura
Peak is Pelga Falls, a popular haunt for anglers and those who just want to find some peace in the
refreshing spray of the waterfall.
ELEPHANT FALLS
Your Meghalaya waterfall exploration is not complete without a visit to the Elephant Falls,
located on the outskirts of the state capital, Shillong.
The waterfall is the result of a mountain stream that drops over multiple levels, scything through
the forested slope. The railed walkways begin at the head of the falls and continue to the bottom,
ensuring that you not only see the magnificence of the falls from a close distance but also feel the
spray of the cool water and the thunderous sound of the flow. The pool at the bottom of the falls
is a tranquil spot where you can wade into the clear water at knee-level and get a nice picture
with the giant cascade in the background.
The Khasi name for Elephant Falls is Kshaid-Lai-Pateng, which roughly refers to the three levels
over which the water plunges. The name is rather misleading today – the elephant-shaped rock
after which it was named by the British was destroyed in an earthquake more than a hundred
years ago. At the entrance to Elephant Falls, there is a collection of stalls selling snacks and
souvenirs.
WARD'S LAKE
With its charming wooden bridge and grassy slopes providing a serene lakeside resting place,
Ward’s Lake is one of the most endearing attractions in Shillong town.
A stone path encircles the small lake and other highlights here include the immaculately
maintained flower gardens along with the lofty trees that provide shade to visitors. More than a
hundred years old, Ward’s Lake is named after William Ward, a Chief Commissioner from the
British era.
Paddle boating in the calm lake waters is recommended. Grab a bite and a beverage at the
restaurant overlooking the bridge. Ward’s lake is an ideal place to watch the world go by – from
young couples to parents with their children, everyone converges here. Standing on the bridge
that spans the lake and feeding the fish below is a favourite pastime. You also have the resident
ducks to befriend.
Ward’s Lake is also known for its events which happen throughout the year. Come autumn and
the cherry blossoms here will be in full bloom, providing memorable visuals and photo-ops. Next
to the Ward’s Lake is the botanical garden – a collection of trees and plants that will interest
botanists and horticulturists. A stone’s throw away from Police Bazaar, Ward’s Lake is a very
easy landmark to locate.
GOLF LINKS
Known as the Glen Eagles of the East, Shillong’s golf course is not just one of the largest and
prettiest natural courses in the country. It is also a place where the townspeople love to wander
around and relax on the open meadows while admiring the pine groves that encircle the area.
Many visitors love to take a stroll around the golf course, crossing over quaint bridges, tucking
into some street food, and marvelling at the monoliths placed in one of the sections of the golf
course.
There are many eateries on the fringes of the golf course, some with outdoor seating so you can
feel the breeze and relish the verdant scenes while you munch on your favourite snacks. If you
fancy a round or two on the greens you can get in touch with the office of the Shillong Golf
Club, located in a charming old building at the top of the hill.