CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION
1.1 History of Garment Industry
1.1.1 World
As early as 1860 the manufacture of ready to wear clothing becomes one
of Cleveland's leading industries. The garment industry probably reached its
peak during the 1920s, when Cleveland ranked close to New York as one of the
country's leading center for garment production during the depression and
continuing after World War II, garment industry in Cleveland declined. Scores
of plants moved out of area were sold or closed their doors local factors
certainly played their part, but the rise of the ready to wear industry in
Cleveland, as well as its declination paralleled the growth and decline of the
industry nationwide. Thus, the story of the garment industry in Cleveland is a
local of regional variant of a much broader phenomenon.
In the early 19th century clothing was still handmade, produced for the
family by women in the household or estimate for the more well to do by
tailors and seamstresses. The first production of ready to wear garments was
stimulated by the needs of sailors slaves and miners. Although still hand
produced, this early ready to wear industry said the foundations for the vast
expansion and mechanization of the industry. The ready to wear industry grew
enormously from the 1860s to the 1880s for a variety or reasons Increasing
mechanization was one factor. In addition systems for sizing man's and boy's
clothing were highly developed, based on millions of measurements obtained
by the U.S. any during the civil was eventually accurate sizing for women's
clothing were also developed industrial cities such as Cleveland also
experienced rapid growth and it was during 19th and early deceases of 20th
century period that Cleveland's ready to wear clothing industry blossomed.
JOSEPH and FEISS co a leading manufactures of men's clothing.
H Black and co which would become a major Clevel and manufacturer
of women's suit and cloaks started out as a nations house.

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 Now a days china is a number one country in the list of top of top
garment industries and India is the world's second larger producer of textile and
garment industry.
Asia becomes larger garment industry area in whole world.

1.1.2 Garment Industries in India: -

India is world's second larger producer of garment industry after China.
The garment industry in India is one of the oldest manufacturing sector in the
country and currently its largest. The Garment industry fulfills a vital role in
Indian economy. It is a major foreign exchange earner and after agriculture it is
largest employee with total workforce.
The garment industry covers a wide range of activities. India's garment
sector earns high export revenue. These include the production of natural raw
materials such as cotton, jute, silk and spun yarn and fifth largest producer of
synthetic fiber and yarn.
The Indian garment industry workforce predominantly comprises first
generation women workers. Most of women involve in garment industries. All
types women can get job in garment industries is that educated or uneducated.
In India, Garment products export more product than other types of
product. In 1970 - 71 near about 12 caror and present 18000 earor products
exported by nation and equity participation and 24 % by the foreign partner.
The account of India's exported product for around 20 % of India's
industrial output and 37 % of total exports. There are 5777 factories in India
employing 3,27,397 personnel producing goods both for home market and for
export.
In India, Banglore, Bombay, Delhi, Tripura etc
are top cities for garment industries. There are 780 garment manufacturing
units in banglore alone.
Income of garment industries share more part in Gross Domestic
product of nation. It plays an important role in economic growth.

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 Garment industries interrelated with textile industries and Laundry
industries. Garment industries produce all types redimate cloths for all types
people. There are different types of garment industries:-.
> Children Garment
> Women Garment
> Men Garment
> Leather Garment
In India different garment industries produce different products, children
garment produce 594 product women garment product 148 product Men
garment produce 19136 product leather garment produces 7744 product in a
year.

1.1.3 Garment production

Garment industry is product is industrial revolution. The first advances
were made in the mass production textile through the invegestion of machinery
for weaving and spinning. These inventions first appeared in 18th century. Not
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until 19 century were the major machines for making garment invented.

Garment production is as follows:-.

> Cutting
> Sewing
> pressing
> Assembly line production
> Quality control.

1.1.3.1 Cutting
Before materials can be sewed together to form a garment. They must
cut according to a pattern. This is a three part operation. The fabric must first
spread on table. Then the pattern is laid on the fabric. The arrangement of
pattern on the spread fabric is called cutting lay of marker.

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 1.1.3.2 Sewing
More than 10000 different kinds of industrial sewing machines have
been produced. Most of these are manufactured in great Britain, United state,
Germany, Itly and Japan, Sewing machines are classified according to type of
stitches. They make by the shape of machines frame. The main character is the
stitch.

1.1.3.3 Pressing
The purpose of operation categorized as pressing is to remove wrinkles
from garment to give it shape. The two basic operations are called Buck
pressing and Iron pressing. There are other processes pleating, creasing,
mangling, blocking, curing and casting. Many of these operations are used also
in dry cleaning.

1.1.3.4 Assembly Line Production

In early clothing factories, each worker assembled and finished on
endive garment since 1940. At the large ready - to - wear apparel, industry has
operated assembly line fashion with strict division of labor among employees.
The reasons for this are to increase productivity to improve quality and to
eliminate large inventories.

1.1.3.5 Quality Control:-

The quality of garment is measured by its lasts by it usefulness and by
its appeal to sight and touch. If a garment tears easily, it is not durable. If a cold
weather top coat does not keep it weared warm, it is not useful. If a piece of
clothing is coarse to the touch, it lacks appeal.

1.1.3.6 Special Aspect

Before the introduction of mass production technology garments were,
normally produced by individual tailors. The new technology turned the tailor
from crafitman to business men and enlarged his shop, converting it into a

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factory. In many factory concer owned their own sewing machines and carried
them from job to job.

1.1.4 Departments of Garment Industries

Sampling Department

Y
Fabric Department

I
Cutting Department

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Stitching Department

I
Kaj Butons Department

Y
Thread Cutting Department

Y
Checking Department

Y
Processing and packing Department

Y
Goods Dispatch

1.1.4.1 Sampling Department

First the job order file comes to the factory after receiving. The file +
Size + Pattern + Original sample garment have to do sampling.
It means as per file and pattern and for reference original garment
have to see. After making the sample, they have to send it to the party for
approved then once garment receive the approval from the party garment can
start the order.
1.1.4.2 Fabric Department

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 Fabric has all types like cotton silk, checks or printed is stored in this
department 100 % checking of the fabric is done here.
Lot wise, color wise entries are hide to maintain the stock from here.
The fabric is being issue to cutting department as per the requirement again
after complication of one lot balance cut per damage parts fresh fabric is stored
in this with a propend note in the stock register.

1.1.4.3 Cutting Department

This is the heart of garment unit because a minor mistake at these stage
can become a major problem at next stage can become a major problem at next
stage.
So a good pattern cum cutting master must be there as a head of the
department the cutting is done as per the order quantity plus 2 % extra fabric is
said down the quality table as per the average of garment three people are read
for this paying purpose. After completing the layer cutting master is doing
marking this layer. As per the pattern that garment reed from the party then
after working he again checks the same tjhing and start cutting.
After numbering, bundling is done. It means 10 ports or bundle number
give for every bundle and now it is ready to issue for stitching.

1.1.4.4 Stitching Department

One approved sample with the comments and with accessory chart is
issued to this department before starting any order here group system is
followed for example for one group of 32 machines, there is one supervisor one
quality controller and one helper & one clerk is given.
Each part of garment is made separately and then it is attached together
at every stage, the Quality Control is checking for quality and the same time
the supervisor is there to see that every worker should get proper feeding to
improve the productivity and efficiency, helper is there to give accessories to
workers and clerk is to maintain the record production of each worker.

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 To each worker, one paper is given to do entries of the bundle numbers.
He stitched because of these entries we can search that who has made mistake
in one particular bundle.
In this department when the garment gets ready, there is a first stage
checking department which is checking for alternations, if any alternations are
there or any faultier there the garment is sent back to the particular worker who
has done the mistake and then get if required from the same person.
After passing the bundles these bundles are ready for doing kaj button.

1.1.4.5 Kaj - Button Department

In this department buttonholing and button attaching is done as per the
requirement of the party.
Sometimes this requirement change from size to size & depends on
buyer. First the pattern is made as per the measurement (size wise) and after
making, it is done on the kaj - placket and button hole is made with semi
automatic or automatic machine.
Then making for button attaching is done with respect to the buttonhole
at the centre of button hole.
Once the kaj-Button is done by the garment and it is ready for thread
cutting.

1.1.4.6 Thread Cutting Department

The loose threads on garments are being cut with the help of cutters. In
any garment that is produced for export purpose, loose threads are not at all
acceptable so industry take maximum care at this stage. Mostly ladies workers
are appointed in this department. After thread cutting, the garment is ready for
checking.

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1.1.4.7 Checking Department
When the garment comes to this department, it is the stage from where
the quality garments are only passed and rest are sent back to either alteration
department to repair the mistakes or the garments are rejected and the rejected
garments remain in stock with the job worker only. If are the percentage or
rejection crosses are more than 2 % then where it may cause short shipment
which is not acceptable in garment export only 1 - 2 % rejection is allowed.
Here the checkers are given measurement to check and to take the
measurements of found anything wrong, they keep it aside to show the floor in
charge.
For open seam on for wrong stitching also the garment is being checked.
This department is responsible for anything wrong, that found at packing stage..
Because this is the last and final checkpoint at this the garment are ready for
packing.

1.1.4.8 Pressing and packing Department

In this department the garment is pressed by steam press and it is. folded
with help of pattern and then price tags are put on the garment and every
garment is packed in an individual polybag.
Again it is checked that the particular price tag is put or not, so avoid the
sorting mistake. Then garments are packed in box is that carton. The packing
may be solid or assorted depending on the buyers requirement.
Solid macking means, in one carton have to pack garment of every size
as per ration given by the buyer.
After packing the garment in carton the goods are ready to dispatch. The
stickers of address put on the cartons.

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1.1.4.9 Goods Dispatch:-
Now the goods are dispatched to the party with proper packing slip.

1.1.5 World's Leading Exporter of Garments

World's Leading Exporters of Garments 1980-95
Name of Country Share of World Export Growth (%)
1980 1990 1995 1980-93 1990-95
Hong Kong 11.5 8.6 6.0 5 1
Chine 4.0 8.9 15.2 21 20
Itly 11.3 10.9 8.9 8 3
Germany 7.1 7.3 4.7 6 -1
Republic of Korea 7.3 7.3 3.1 6 -9
United state 3.1 2.4 4.2 11 21
France 5.7 4.3 3.6 5 04
Turkey 0.3 3.1 3.9 31 13
Thailand 0.7 2.6 2.9 24 10
Portugal 1.6 3.2 2.3 17 01
Chinese taipel 6.0 3.7 2.1 03 -4
India 1.5 2.3 2.6 15 10
Indonesia 0.2 1.5 2.1 32 15
United Kingdom 4.6 2.8 2.9 05 09
Nether land 2.2 2.0 1.8 08 05

(Source GAH 1994 P. 84 & W/O - 1996 pill)

Above table shows world's leading exporters of garment since 1980-
1995.

1.2 Statement of Problem

"The study of workers problem and perspects in Garment
Industries with special reference to Khanapur Tehsil.

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1.3 Objectives of the study
The objectives of the study of workers problem in garment industries are
as following.

1.3.1 To study workers problem in relation to Economical social,

psychological, industrial relation, health and safety in garment
industry.
1.3.2 To study the effect of problems on employee's productivity.
1.3.3 To find out effect of workers problem on industry.
1.3.4 To find out employee's expectations.
1.3.5 To make suggestion and recommendation of finding of the study.

1.4 Research Methodology

For achieving above objectives primary and secondary' data were
collected this study is exploratory in nature and resorts to survey method. The
data is collected both primary and secondary sources.

1.4.1:- Collection of data:-

The researcher used both primary and secondary method of data
collection.

1.4.1.1 Primary Data

The primary data has collected through questionnaire method,
interviews and discussion with workers and managers.
The primary data have collected from following sources.-
I. Questionnaire:- Information has collected through questionnaire
II. Personal discussion:- Information about each problem of workers
have collected by direct discussion with manager and worker.
III. Direct observation;- Information regarding problems of workers
also collected by direct observation.

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1..4.1.2:- Secondary Data:-
The secondary data has collected through reference books. Magazines
news papers, related literature and also used statistical method, chart, averages,
diagram etc.

1.4.2 Sample Design

The sample size has selected 10 % for the purpose of study from total
workers. 55 workers have selected from 550 workers.

1.5 Scope of Study

The present researcher has studied the workers problem in garment
industry with reference to Khanapur Tehsile. The problem related to
economics, society, industrial relation, psychology and health have been
critically examined.
Name of Garment Industry in Khanapur Tehsil area are as follows-

1.5.1 Yashodhon Garment Co- operative society Ghanwad.

1.5.2 Jijamata Knitting Garment pvt ltd Ghanwad.
1.5.3 Chaitrawali Mahila knitting Garment, Ghanwad.
1.5.4 Revansiddha Garment, Vita.
1.5.5 Jay Garment, Vita.
1.5.6 Siddhi Garment, Vita.
1.5.7 Mahadik Garment, Vita.
1.5.8 Sharadrao pawar knitting Garment Ghanwad.

1.6 Limitations of Study

The researcher has found following limitations of study:-.
1) Confidential data of industry has not provided which may create
barriers.
2) Industry does not provide information related with finance.
3) The study is based on only data provided by study units.

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1.7 Chapter Scheme
Chapter 1> Introduction of the study,
Chapter 2:- The profile of company
Chapter 3:- Theoretical Background
Chapter 4:- Data analysis and interpretation
Chapter 5:- Conclusion and suggestions

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