EYEWITNESS

BERLIN
CONTENTS
DISCOVER 6
Welcome to Berlin........................................ 8 Berlin Itineraries ...........................................22
Reasons to Love Berlin ........................... 10 Berlin Your Way ............................................28
Explore Berlin .................................................14 A Year in Berlin ............................................. 52
Getting to Know Berlin .............................16 A Brief History ............................................. 54

EXPERIENCE 60
Around Unter den Linden ..............62 Tiergarten...............................................152

Museumsinsel........................................82 Kreuzberg ............................................... 178

Alexanderplatz ....................................102 Around Kurfürstendamm............ 196

North Mitte and Around Schloss

Prenzlauer Berg .................................. 118 Charlottenburg ................................ 208

Friedrichshain ..................................... 142 Beyond the Centre ........................ 220

NEED TO KNOW 268

Before You Go............................................270 Index ................................................................. 278
Getting Around ......................................... 272 Phrase Book .................................................284
Practical Information ............................. 276 Acknowledgments................................... 287

Left: Inside the Reichstag dome

Previous page: Ferries passing by the Berliner Dom
Front cover: The Oberbaumbrücke on the Spree river
The Mitte district divided by the Spree

DISCOVER
Welcome to Berlin ..........................................8

Reasons to Love Berlin ..............................10

Explore Berlin ................................................... 14

Getting to Know Berlin .............................. 16

Berlin Itineraries ............................................ 22

Berlin Your Way ............................................. 28

A Year in Berlin ............................................... 52

A Brief History ................................................54

 WELCOME TO
BERLIN
DISCOVER Welcome to Berlin

Berlin has it all, from inspiring cultural sights to

endless examples of its role in world history. But
Berlin also has something many major cities lack:
a vibrant alternative spirit, thrillingly manifest in
its edgy nightlife and art scenes. Whatever your
dream trip to Berlin includes, this DK Eyewitness
Guide is the perfect travel companion.

1 Holocaust Denkmal, a
sombre memorial to the
Murdered Jews of Europe.
2 The Fernsehturm towering
above the cityscape.
3 The Brandenburg Gate
bathed by the setting sun. 3

8
Many of Berlin’s key sights are conveniently way to the city’s green spaces and lakes
located in the city centre, and grouped beyond the centre, as well as more fascinating
together in a way that makes them ideal for cultural and historical sights. Venture further
easy walking tours. A stroll along the grand and you’ll discover the grand Park Sanssouci
avenue Unter den Linden will bring you directly in Potsdam, sprinkled with decadent buildings
to the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag. like the Neues Palais that brings to life the
And a visit to bustling Alexanderplatz can Prussian Baroque era of the 18th century.
easily be combined with a walk around the A city made up of so many unique districts
reconstructed old town of Nikolaiviertel can seem overwhelming at first. This guide-
or the Soviet boulevard Karl-Marx-Allee. book breaks Berlin down into easily navigable
Berlin’s residential neighbourhoods – chapters, full of expert local knowledge on the
especially Friedrichshain, Kreuzberg and sights and simple yet comprehensive maps to
Neukölln – should not be missed either. help you get around and find even the most
They’re key to understanding the city’s secluded hidden gems. With the Need to Know
famously cool appeal, and exploring their section providing all the key facts for those
laid-back streets will often lead to a delightful new to Berlin, this Eyewitness guide will help
array of independent cafés, shops, bars and you make the most of all that the city has to
more. These neighbourhoods eventually give offer. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Berlin.

9
 REASONS TO LOVE
BERLIN
DISCOVER Reasons to Love Berlin

As a modern metropolis that has evolved over hundreds of years of change,

Berlin is overflowing with things to see and do. Here are the highlights that
no visitor should miss.

1 MARKETS
Head outside at the weekend
and you’ll hear the buzz of flea
markets across the city, or
follow the aromas of hot food
and fresh fruit to one of the
many Saturday food markets.

EAST SIDE GALLERY

History is everywhere here,
2
but don’t miss this heritage-
protected stretch of the Berlin
Wall (p151) – an anarchic
collection of street art, graffiti
and social commentary.

10
 MUSEUMSINSEL 3
One of Prussia’s finest legacies,
Museum Island (p82) is a
UNESCO-heritage ensemble of
five museums that takes you
on a cultural journey through
2,000 years of world history.

NIGHTLIFE 4
Berlin’s reputation as Europe’s
party capital is well-deserved.
The city is home to some of the
best techno clubs in the world,
and its club scene is a huge
part of the city’s identity.

KAFFEE UND KUCHEN 5

Enjoy the German tradition of
coffee and cake with a classic
treat like apple strudel. For a
more modern alternative,
refuel with a barista-grade
brew in a cool new coffee shop.
 MUSIC 6
Berlin’s unique energy has
resulted in a diverse musical
heritage. Artists from all over
the world – including Iggy Pop
and David Bowie – have flocked
here for the creative freedom.
DISCOVER Reasons to Love Berlin

KU’DAMM
Berlin’s best-known boulevard
7
(p206) is lined with high-end
boutiques, glamorous
restaurants and historic cafés.
Explore the side streets for local
brands and cute coffee shops.

8 CHEAP STREET EATS

Berlin’s cheap eats are
legendary. For every new
restaurant opening there are
several delicious doner kebab
and falafel spots. Don’t miss
out on the city’s Currywurst.

12
 9 RIVERS AND LAKES
The tranquil canals and
meandering rivers that
crisscross the city are perfect
for a peaceful stroll or a boat
ride. More many scenic stops
await outside the city centre.

STREET ART 10
Berlin can sometimes feel like
one giant canvas. As well as
famous paintings on buildings
around the city, you can visit
dedicated street art galleries
like Urban Spree (p151).

THE REICHSTAG 11
Berlin’s official parliamentary
building (p173) has survived
arson, revolution and war, and
a tour through its remarkable
interior is a fine way to learn
about modern German history.

13
EXPLORE
BERLIN W E D DWI N
EGDDING

This guide divides Berlin into nine

colour-coded sightseeing areas,
as shown on the map below.
Find out more about each area
on the following pages. For areas
beyond the centre see p220.
Ge
Ber

Fritz-Schloss-
Fritz-Schloss-
M O A BMI TO A B I T Park Park
Hamburger
Hamburger
Bahnhof Bahnhof

Schlosspark
Schlosspark

Schloss Schloss
Charlottenburg
Charlottenburg Sp Sp
re re
e e
EnglischerEnglischer
AROUND
AROUND
SCHLOSS
SCHLOSS Garten Garten ReichstagReichstag
CHARLOTTENBURG
CHARLOTTENBURG
p208 p208 Grosser Grosser
Stern Stern T i e r g a r Tt ei enr g a r t e n
Ernst-Reuter-
Ernst-Reuter-
Sophie- Sophie- Platz Platz Holo
Charlotte- Charlotte- Den
Platz Platz
Kunstgewerbemuseum
Kunstgewerbemuseum PotsdamerPotsdam
Zoologischer
Zoologischer Platz Platz
Garten Garten Gemäldegalerie
Gemäldegalerie

Kaiser Breitscheid-
Kaiser Wilhelm Wilhelm Breitscheid-
C H A R LCOHTATRELNOBTUTREG
NBURG Gedächtnis
Gedächtnis platz
Kirche Kirche platz Lutzow- Lutzow-
TIERGARTEN
TIERGARTEN
platz platz
p152 p152
AROUND
AROUND Wittenberg-Wittenberg-
Adenauer-Adenauer- KURFÜRSTENDAMM
KURFÜRSTENDAMMplatz platz
platz platz
p196 p196 Nollendorf-
Nollendorf-
platz platz DeutschesDeutsche
Technikmuseum
Technikmuseum
Berlin Berli
Winterfeldt-
Winterfeldt-
platz platz

Fehrbelliner
Fehrbelliner
Platz Platz
Vikto
W I L MW
E RI LS M
D EO RR SF D O R F pa

Volkspark Volkspark
Wilmersdorf
Wilmersdorf

S C H M ASRC G
H EMNADRO
G RE FN D O R F

F R I E DF ERNI EA DU E N A U

T
 W E I S SW
ENE ISSESEE N S E E
G E S U NGDEBS R
UUNN
DNB ER N
UNNEN

MauerparkMauerpark

Volkspark Volkspark
Kollwitz- Kollwitz- PrenzlauerPrenzlauer
platz platz Berg Berg
edenkstätte
Gedenkstätte Jüdischer Jüdischer
rliner Mauer
Berliner MauerZionskirche
Zionskirche Friedhof Friedhof

NORTHNORTH
MITTE MITTE
AND AND
PRENZLAUER
PRENZLAUER
BERG BERG
p118 p118
Oranienburger
Oranienburger
Tor Tor Volksbühne
Volksbühne Volkspark Volkspark
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain

Alexander-Alexander-
platz platz
Marienkirche
Marienkirche
Berliner Dom
Berliner Dom
Strausberger
Strausberger
ZeughausZeughaus ALEXANDERPLATZ
ALEXANDERPLATZPlatz Platz
g p102 p102
AROUND AROUND
UNTERUNTER FRIEDRICHSHAIN
FRIEDRICHSHAIN
DEN LINDEN
DEN LINDEN
MUSEUMS-
MUSEUMS- p142 p142
p62 p62 INSEL INSEL
ocaustHolocaust
nkmal Denkmal p82 p82 Boxhagener-
Boxhagener-
Platz Platz
mer
z
Sp Sp
re re
e e

KREUZBERG
KREUZBERG
p178 p178Jüdisches Jüdisches Oranien- Oranien-
platz platz
Museum Berlin
Museum Berlin
Mehring- Mehring-
es platz platz Wassertor-Wassertor-
m platz platz
in

A LT - A LT -
T R E P TTORWE P T O W

oria- Viktoria-
ark park
CENTRAL EUROPE
Platz der Platz der Volkspark Volkspark
LuftbrückeLuftbrücke
HasenheideHasenheide DENMARK
North
Sea

Hamburg
NETHERLANDS
BERLIN
Hannover
POLAND
Düsseldorf Leipzig
Te m p e l Te
h om
f epr e l h o f e r GERMANY
BELGIUM
Feld Feld CZECH
Frankfurt REPUBLIC

Stuttgart SLOVAKIA
Munich
FRANCE
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND HUNGARY
T E M P ETLEHMOPFE L H O F
ITALY
 GETTING TO KNOW
BERLIN
DISCOVER Getting to Know Berlin

Berlin is made up of 12 boroughs which group together the city’s 96

Ortsteile (localities), each one with its own character, history and highlights.
The most famous sights are located in the dozen or so inner-city Ortsteile,
but there’s plenty more to see beyond the centre in Greater Berlin (p220).

AROUND UNTER Best for

Culture, architecture, history
DEN LINDEN
PAGE 62

Home to
Berlin’s most stately street still fulfils its role as Zeughaus (DHM), Brandenburger
a connecting artery between Museumsinsel and Tor, Bebelplatz
Tiergarten park. Lined with some of the city’s most Experience
impressive Baroque and Neo-Classical buildings, this Prussian-era architecture and
is the boulevard you’ll want to stroll down for a first iconic landmarks, plus coffee
impression of Berlin: both its Prussian past and and cake in Café Einstein
its cosmopolitan present.

16
 MUSEUMSINSEL

PAGE 82
At the heart of Berlin’s central Mitte
district is a long island nestled in the
tributaries of the winding river Spree.
The UNESCO-listed museum complex
on this island is one of Berlin’s unique
landmarks and a must-see for anyone
interested in art and history. And
when you’re done exploring the
museums, the rest of the city is only
a short walk away.

Best for
Culture, architecture, history
Home to
Berliner Dom, Pergamonmuseum,
Neues Museum, Altes Museum, Alte
Nationalgalerie, Bode-Museum
Experience
Antiquities from the Middle East
and European artworks from the
Middle Ages to the 18th century

ALEXANDERPLATZ Best for

Shopping, architecture
PAGE 102

Berlin’s most famous square is synonymous with Home to

one of the city’s most iconic landmarks: the looming Fernsehturm, Marienkirche
GDR-era Fernsehturm. The whole area is characterized
by the somewhat dreary – and heritage-protected – Experience
Shopping at the the Alexa Mall
Communist buildings that surround it, but it’s still
then heading to the Fernsehturm
the beating heart of Berlin, a place where locals rush to check out the stunning views
by on their morning commute or meet up with friends from the 203-m- (666-ft-) high
at the weekend. observation deck

17
DISCOVER Getting to Know Berlin

NORTH MITTE AND Best for

Local bars and cafés
PRENZLAUER BERG
PAGE 118

Home to
North of Torstrasse, Mitte begins to morph into the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer,
quieter, more residential district of Prenzlauer Berg. Hamburger Bahnhof, Neue
Synagoge, Centrum Judaicum,
Characterized by its leafy, cobbled streets and
Haus Schwarzenberg Museums,
refurbished Altbaus (19th-century tenements), it’s one
Museum für Naturkunde
of the most gentrified and laid-back parts of the city.
Relatively low on major sights, it offers instead a Experience
stream of pleasant cafés and restaurants, independent The view from the area around
the Wasserturm, part of a slightly
boutiques and cosy bars. That said, the Berlin Wall elevated landscaped park that
Memorial along Bernauer Strasse is a must for all locals use for picnics and
history fans and there are some interesting and hanging out in the summer
unique museums scattered throughout the area.

18
 FRIEDRICHSHAIN Best for
Restaurants, bars, nightlife
PAGE 142

Once home to political anarchists, Friedrichshain has Home to

largely lost its radical left-wing image in favour of a East Side Gallery, Karl-Marx-
more cosmopolitan air – especially around the central Allee, Volkspark Friedrichshain,
Boxhagener Platz, which is studded with buzzing cafés Berghain, RAW Gelände
and restaurants, edgy bars and indie boutiques. The
Experience
district is also popular for nightlife, and its Volkspark Urban art and nightlife in the
is one of the city’s most popular recreational spots. RAW Gelände complex

TIERGARTEN
PAGE 152

At the heart of the city, Berlin’s central

park bursts to life with gardens,
meadows and lakes threaded together
with pleasant pathways. The wide
boulevard Strasse des 17 Juni divides
the park through the centre. Its
southern fringe borders the bustling
areas of Potsdamer Platz and the
Kulturforum, while the northern edge
runs parallel to important sights like
the Reichstag and Regierungsviertel.

Best for
Strolling, museums, culture
Home to
Kunstgewerbemuseum, Gemäldegalerie,
Potsdamer Platz, Reichstag, Siegessaüle,
Kulturforum, Haus der Kulturen der Welt
Experience
Rowing around the Neuer See in
Tiergarten then a drink at one
of its excellent beer gardens

19
 KREUZBERG

PAGE 178
One of Berlin’s most dynamic districts,
Kreuzberg can be divided into several
unofficial “zones”. The northern section
can be considered part of the tourist
centre, with several significant sights
and museums. The eastern section,
DISCOVER Getting to Know Berlin

sometimes referred to as SO36, is

decidedly alternative, with a buzzy
nightlife and a large concentration of
Turkish and Middle Eastern immigrants.
In contrast, Western Kreuzberg is more
gentrified, characterized by pleasant
cafés, tree-lined avenues and the
historical Viktoriapark.

Best for
Bars, clubs, cafés
Home to
Jüdisches Museum Berlin, Viktoriapark,
Berlinische Galerie, Checkpoint Charlie,
Deutsches Technikmuseum
Experience
The lively bars of East Kreuzberg

AROUND Best for

Shops, cafés, restaurants
KURFÜRSTENDAMM
PAGE 196

Home to
Kurfürstendamm – usually abbreviated to the more Zoo Berlin, Kaiser Wilhelm
manageable “Ku’damm” – is a 3.5-km- (2.2-mile-) long Gedächtnis Kirche, KaDeWe,
boulevard beginning at bustling Breitscheidplatz, close Bikinihaus Mall
to the historical Zoological Garden and the distinctive Experience
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. It’s lined on both Endless shopping opportunities,
sides with a non-stop mix of upscale fashion boutiques a vast array of dining options
and high-street stores, and punctuated throughout and plenty of culture – all along
one famous boulevard
with cafés, hotels, restaurants and cultural venues.
Its side streets are also well worth exploring.

20
 AROUND SCHLOSS Best for
Strolling, sightseeing
PAGE 208

CHARLOTTENBURG Home to
One of Berlin’s premier royal sights, the Schloss Schloss Charlottenburg, Museum
Charlottenburg palace complex is almost a small village Scharf-Gerstenberg, Museum
Berggruen, Bröhan-Museum,
in itself. Its ensemble of extravagant Baroque buildings
Luisenkirche
include former royal apartments, rooms brimming
with antique porcelain and prestigious artworks and Experience
a mausoleum containing graves of the Hohenzollern A sunset walk around the
family. The landscaped gardens are especially lovely manicured palace gardens
in summer, and there are several other noteworthy
museums and attractive buildings in the area.

21
DISCOVER Berlin Itineraries

1 Rooftop of the Reichstag.

2 The Neues Museum.
3 Riverside park with a view
of the Berliner Dom.
4 The goddess of victory
2 atop the Brandenburger Tor.

22
It can be hard to know where to start in a city overflowing
with famous sights and world-class museums. These itineraries
pick out the highlights as well as some hidden gems, so you
can make the most out of even a short trip to Berlin.

5 HOURS
Afternoon Bebelplatz (p80) to see Micha Ullman’s
Brimming with Neo-Classical architecture “Bibliotek”, a memorial to the Nazi’s
and artwork documenting the history 1933 book-burning. Continuing on
of human creativity, Museumsinsel is a down Unter den Linden you’ll eventually
stately place to get a first impression end at the city’s most famous icon,
of Berlin. For a taste of all the island has the Brandenburger Tor (p78) with your
to offer, the Neues Museum (p86) has next stop – the Reichstag (p173) – just
one of the most wide-ranging and exotic down the road.
exhibitions and will provide plenty of
motivation for a return visit. If you can
pull yourself away from the treasures of
Evening
the UNESCO-listed museums, wander Taking a tour (prebooking essential)
over to Schlossplatz (p96) and past the of the magnificent Reichstag in the
recently erected Humboldt Forum, a late afternoon means you can be on its
replica of the former Royal Palace. After famous domed rooftop for wonderful
having lunch at the Heat (Karl-Liebknecht city views as the sun sets. The venue’s
Strasse 3), take a walk along Unter den Käfer restaurant offers traditional
Linden (p72) and admire its multitude German cuisine, which you can walk
of restored historic buildings. Be sure to off with a stroll south past the
look into Schinkel’s Neue Wache (p69) Tiergarten (p170) towards Potsdamer
to see Käthe Kollwitz’s poignant sculpture Platz (p162), making a stop at the
symbolising the suffering of the Berlin impressive Holocaust Denkmal (p77).
people during World War II, and at

23
DISCOVER Berlin Itineraries

1 Rotating restaurant
in the Fernsehturm.
2 Nikolaikirche, the
oldest church in Berlin.
3 Marx and Engels.
4 DDR Museum. 4

24
1 DAY
Morning look out for the tell-tale prefabricated
Start with breakfast at Sphere, the buildings amidst the cobbled lanes
rotating restaurant inside the iconic and cute houses. As well as a gorgeous
Fernsehturm (p107), before heading to Rococo façade and original staircase, the
the viewing platform for panoramic vistas Ephraim-Palais (p113) offers interesting
of the city. Back down at ground level, exhibitions and a good restaurant for
experience the everyday bustle of the lunch. Other nearby sights and museums
city as locals crisscross Alexanderplatz, worth visiting include the 18th-century
emerging from and disappearing into the Knoblauchhaus (p112), the Nikolaikirche –
various underground entrances of this whose foundations date back to the
transport hub, and streaming in and out 13th century – and the fantastic bronze
of the many shops around the square. statue of St George fighting the dragon.
Much of the surrounding architecture,
built in the 1960s by the GDR, is now
heritage-listed; don’t leave without
Evening
admiring Walter Womacka’s mosaic After dropping into the Zille Museum
frieze on the Haus des Lehrers. For (p112) to admire some of artist Heinrich
further insights into East German life, Zille’s collection of artworks and
head to the engaging and highly photographs, head to the Zille-Stube
interactive DDR Museum (p110). for hearty German fare, a beer and a
welcoming atmosphere. If you still have
some energy, enjoy an evening stroll
Afternoon around the romantic bridges, exquisite
After the DDR Museum, walk along buildings and maritime atmosphere of
the riverbank past the famous statues the small but pretty Fischerinsel, one
of Marx and Engels (p110) towards the of the earliest settlement areas of Berlin.
Nikolaiviertel (p116) which, despite its
medieval history and character, was
actually reconstructed by the GDR;

25
DISCOVER Berlin Itineraries

1 Inside the Sony Center.

2 The Gemäldegalerie
3 The old belfry of Kaiser
Wilhelm Gedächtnis Kirche.
4 Ending the evening at one
2 of the city’s traditional pubs.

26
2 DAYS
Day 1 Day 2
Morning Start the day in style with Morning Grab a casual breakfast at
breakfast and impressive views of the city one of the hip cafés in the Bikinihaus
at Panoramapunkt on the 25th floor of Mall (p202), after which you can browse
Kollhoff-Tower (p164). From here you can local fashion and design boutiques.
explore the exciting area of Potsdamer Cross the street to explore the interiors
Platz (p162) with its many museums, shops of the unique and moving Kaiser Wilhelm
and fascinating sights, from modern art Gedächtnis Kirche (p200) before hitting
installations to original sections of the the nearby Ku’damm boulevard (p206)
Berlin Wall outside the S-Bahn entrance – for some serious shopping.
or if you have kids, enjoy a creative session Afternoon Head down the elegant
at the LEGOLAND® Discovery Centre (p163). Fasanenstrasse (p204) to enjoy a
For a quick and healthy lunch, try Weilands classic villa-style lunch at the Café im
Wellfood; for handbrewed coffee and arti- Literaturhaus. The equally stunning villa
san teas with homemade sandwiches, head next door hosts the beguiling Käthe-
to THE BARN Café (Alte Potsdamer Str. 5). Kollwitz-Museum (p216), which celebrates
Afternoon After lunch, walk across to the the life and work of this vital German
Kulturforum (p176), West Berlin’s answer to artist. Next, catch a bus or underground
Museumsinsel. The Gemäldegalerie, one of train to the unmissable Charlottenburg
the most comprehensive museums (p158) Palace (p212), leaving enough time to
here, is worth a couple of hours to explore. explore the gorgeous palace grounds;
The adjacent Kunstgewerbemuseum (p156) pause in between for a restorative coffee
has lots to interest design and fashion and cake at the Orangerie.
fans, while over on nearby Leipziger Platz Evening If you have some time left,
(p165), adults and kids alike can enjoy explore one or more of the palace’s
the multimedia Spy Museum. nearby museums, which include the
Evening To experience the sophisticated Berggruen (p217), the Scharf-Gerstenberg
side of Berlin, book dinner at the Michelin- (p216) and the Schlossstrasse Villas.
starred FACIL before attending a concert End your day the Berliner’s way at the
at the Philharmonie (p166). An evening Brauhaus Lemke am Schloss (p214),
stroll through the Tiergarten (p170) is a which offers a solid menu of traditional
wonderful after-concert activity, or you can German dishes and beers.
continue down Potsdamer Strasse (p169)
for some classy cocktails at Victoria Bar.

27
 Modern and Postmodern
One of the most famous collections
of modern architecture can be found
at Potsdamer Platz, which boasts
skyscrapers by architects like Renzo
Piano and Frank Gehry. Also worth
seeking out is Daniel Libeskind’s
Jüdisches Museum Berlin, whose
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

jagged, slashed façade and dramatic

interior are intended to express
notions of violence and absence.

Dramatic faÇade
of the Jüdisches
Museum Berlin

BERLIN FOR
ARCHITECTURE
Berlin’s history is brought to life by an eclectic mix of architecture on display
across the city. With stunning buildings and gardens designed by some of
the world’s most famous architects, the city is overflowing with amazing
structures and spaces which make Berlin feel like an open-air art gallery.

Cold War Era

TOP

3 GDR The former Eastern parts of the city

SIGHTS are peppered with blocky GDR-era
architecture. The most famous and
DDR Museum impressive ensemble is around
Find out what East Alexanderplatz, whose iconic
German life was like Fernsehturm – along with some of the
under the watchful surrounding prefabricated high-rises
eye of the Stasi (p110). (such as the Haus des Lehrers) – was
designed by prominent East German
East Side Gallery architect Hermann Henselmann.
The longest existing
stretch of the Berlin
GDR-era Haus des Lehrers
Wall doubles as an
on Alexanderplatz
outdoor gallery (p151),
with colourful murals
by 118 artists from 21
different countries.

Berlin Wall Memorial

The city’s official Berlin
Wall Memorial (p123) is
dedicated to those killed
by the Eastern border
guards while trying to
escape into West Berlin.

28
Neo-Classical Designs
For decades, Neo-Classical KARL FRIEDRICH
architecture was all the rage SCHINKEL
in Berlin, and the city centre Schinkel was one of
has many striking examples the most renowned
of this grand and elegant German architects;
style. Many can be found on even today his work
Museumsinsel and Unter den forms an essential
Linden, which feature several element of the archi-
designs by the prolific Karl tectural landscape of
Friedrich Schinkel. Of special Berlin. For many years
note are the Konzerthaus on Schinkel held a high-
the city’s handsome Gen- profile position in the
darmenmarkt, and the Prussian Building
Neue Wache, designed Ministry. In Berlin and
as a guard house for Potsdam he designed
the Kronprinzen- several dozen buildings,
palais and now including palaces, civic
home to a buildings and churches,
World War II many of which still
memorial. stand today. He also
excelled at painting
and even designed
scenery for the opera
Neo-Classical house on Unter den
columns Linden, among others.
decorating the
Neue Wache

A Modern Medieval Quarter Pretty

The pretty Nikolaiviertel is the best place cobbled
to get an idea of how the city used to look, streets of
although the area is not as old as it appears. Nikolaiviertel
Reconstructed during the 1980s by the
GDR, it features cobbled streets and the
13th-century Nikolaikirche, as well as
striking examples of Rococo at the Ephraim-
Palais, and Baroque at the Knoblauchhaus.

29
 Romanticism
Visit the Alte Nationalgalerie
(p95) to see Karl Friedrich
Schinkel’s Gotischer Dom am
Wasser (1813). In the 19th
century Romanticism turned
away from religious themes
and instead focused on the
natural world and personal
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

expression. This painting by

Schinkel is a perfect example,
cleaving to the themes of
Romanticism with its stormy
skies and gothic setting.

Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s

Gotischer Dom am Wasser
(1813), Alte Nationalgalerie

BERLIN FOR
ART LOVERS
Alongside a slew of big-hitter institutions such as those on Museumsinsel,
visitors to Berlin can find an endless constellation of independent galleries
and private collections, showcasing the evolving history of artistic expression.

INSIDER TIP
Berlin
Welcome Card
The Berlin Welcome
Card offers discounted
access to many of
the top museums
and galleries in the
city. Additionally,
the card also provides
unlimited access to
all public transport.

Die Brücke
Die Brücke (The Bridge) was
an artistic movement founded
by German Expressionists,
who aimed to connect
the Neo-Romantic and
Expressionist movements.
Despite the short existence
of the group (1905–13), its
members produced many
distinctive works in various
media. Head to the Brücke
Museum in Dahlem to find
out more (p120).

30
 Did You Know?
The East Side Gallery was
painstakingly restored
in 2009, with many
artists repainting their
original murals.

Street Art
The East Side Gallery (p151),
a 1.3-km- (0.8-mile-) long
stretch of the Berlin Wall
features dozens of political
pieces, including Dmitri Vrubel’s
disturbing depiction of Brezhnev
and Honecker kissing (1990). The
gallery perfectly captures the
nontraditional, often rebellious
nature of modern
street art. East Side Gallery, a
graffiti-covered stretch
of the Berlin Wall

Renaissance
Religious themes were a popular
source of inspiration in Renaissance
art, which developed in the early
15th century. Donatello’s intimate
Pazzi Madonna (c 1425–30) was a
pioneering piece in Renaissance
marble relief artworks – make your
way to the Bode-Museum (p94) on
Museumsisel to see it for yourself.

Donatello’s Pazzi Madonna

at the Bode-Museum

New Objectivity
Neue Sachlichkeit (New
Objectivity) was a reaction to
Expressionism, and aimed for
as much realism as possible
across a variety of disciplines
from architecture to painting.
Founded by the likes of Otto
Dix and George Grosz, the
movement originated in
Germany in the 1920s. See
great works by these artists
at the Berlinisches Galerie
(Alte Jakobstrasse 124–128).

Karl Schmidt-Rottluff Otto Dix’s The Poet Iwar

exhibit at the Brücke von Lücken (1926),
Museum, Dahlem Berlinisches Galerie

31
 REMEMBERING
THE PAST
Homosexuality was
seen as a capital crime
in Nazi Germany. From
1933 to 1945, around
100,000 gay men were
arrested, imprisoned or
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

sent to concentration
camps. Set across from
Holocaust Denkmal
(p77) is the Memorial
to Homosexuals
Persecuted Under
Nazism. Opened in 2008
after a decade of cam-
paigning by Berlin’s gay
community, it consists
of a concrete cube with
a window showing two
films that alternate
biennially – one of two
men kissing and one of Costumed participants
two women kissing. holding signs at the 41st
CSD celebration in Berlin

BERLIN FOR
LGBT+
CULTURE
Berlin’s prominent LGBT+ scene sprung into life in the 19th century, and
was immortalized during the Weimar era. Today, the city has the most active
gay scene in Germany, with citywide infrastructure, regular events and a
distinctive community hub in the scintillating “gaybourhood” of Schöneberg.

Community History
Berlin’s LGBT+ legacy extends back to at least
1897, when the world’s first gay magazine,
Der Eigine, was published and the Scientific-
Humanitarian Committee – the very first
gay and lesbian organization in the world –
was founded by Magnus Hirschfield. By the
Weimar era (p57), Berlin was known as the Gay
Capital of Europe and was home to icons such as
actress and cabaret star Marlene Dietrich and
English author Christopher Isherwood. A more
recent spokesperson for Berlin’s gay commu-
nity was former mayor Klaus Wowereit
(2001–2014). Despite the city’s liberal history,
same-sex marriage wasn’t legalized in Green party members celebrating the vote to
Germany until 2017. legalize same-sex marriage in Parliament

32
 Berlin Pride
Berlin Pride – also referred to as Christopher
Street Day (CSD) – comprises many offshoot
events that run parallel to the main, month-
long Pride festival, which usually starts at the
end of May. These events include a CSD Gala,
Kreuzberg Pride, Gay Night at the Zoo, Dyke
March, Libertarian CSD and Radical Queer
March. Other LGBT+ events in the city include
Folsom Europe, Hustlaball, Spreewieso Berlin
and the Yo!Sissy Queer Music Festival.

INSIDER TIP
MonGay Movie
Nights
Since 1997, the Kino
International cinema
(p149) has been playing
films with gay and
lesbian content every
Monday for its MonGay
series, all shown in their
original version with
German subtitles.

People wave the

rainbow flag at the
Berlin Pride parade

Schöneberg
Berlin has many gay districts,
but Schöneberg is something
special. Just as in the Weimar
era, the vibrant centre point
of the area is Nollendorfplatz.
The local cafés and bars – Café
Berio, Osbili, Romeo and Romeo
and Prinzknecht – have long-
catered to the gay clientele
that congregate there. The
world’s first gay museum, the
Schwules Museum, which
opened in 1985, is also here,
and showcases the history
of the gay rights movement
in Germany and Europe. The
district also hosts regular The dome of the
events like Folsom Europe Nollendorfplatz U-Bahn
and major parts of Pride Week. station lit in rainbow colours

33
 Marvellous Museums
From chatting to robots and
sending notes via pneumatic
tubes at the Museum for
Communication, to decipher-
ing machines and negotiating
the laser maze at the Spy
Museum, Berlin has plenty
to offer. Kids can immerse
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

themselves in German
history by enjoying a (virtual)
drive in a Trabi at the DDR
Museum and make their own
physics experiments at the
Museum of Technology’s
Spectrum Centre.

Tin-can telephone
at the Museum für
Kommunikation

BERLIN FOR
FAMILIES
Berlin may be marketed as a youthful and entrepreneurial city, but it’s
also a fantastic destination for families. It offers a multitude of green
spaces and waterways for relaxing between activities, inspiring and
interactive museums and plenty of family-friendly restaurants and cafés.

Taking a Break
Wherever you’re based in the city, you’ll
never be far away from one of Berlin’s
magnificent parks, whether it’s the sprawling
and central Tiergarten, neighbourhood parks
like Volkspark Friedrichshain, or the
historical and vast Tempelhofer Feld.

KINDERCAFÉS
Unique to Berlin,
Kindercafés (children’s
cafés) were created
with both children and
parents in mind. They
merge safe play areas
with a seating area
selling drinks and
snacks. Many also have
information boards on
local events and some
sell nappies and even
second-hand toys and
children’s clothing.

34
 Ice rink by the town
hall and a boat ride on
the Spree (inset)

Outdoor Fun
Whether winter or summer, there is always
something fun to do outdoors. In summer,
enjoy a boat ride along the Spree, a stroll or
picnic in one of the city’s unique parks, or try
your hand at some karaoke in the Mauerpark.
In winter lace up your ice­skates and head
to one of the many lakes dotted in and around
the city, or make use of numerous sledging hills.

Family
Favourites
Among the many
family activities in
Berlin are two zoos,
an aquarium and the
legendary LEGOLAND®
Discovery Centre
(p163). Kids will also
love the fast elevator
ride up the Fernseh­
turm for panoramic
views of the city and
a sweet treat in the
revolving restaurant.

Family enjoying a stroll Giraffe made out of Lego

through the Tiergarten bricks at LEGOLAND®
park in central Berlin Discovery Centre

35
 World Food
Berlin’s dining scene
reflects its increasingly
international population,
with a range of cuisines
from all around the globe.
Dishes such as Japanese
sashimi, Korean kimchi and
Peruvian ceviche can be
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

found at street food markets

such as Markthalle IX and
Prenzlauer Berg’s Street
Food auf Achse. Meanwhile
upscale options like Ryōtei
893 and Cocolo (p192) pair
contemporary cuisine
with swanky interiors.

Cheesecake at
Cocolo Ramen
in Kreuzberg

BERLIN FOR
FOODIES
As you would expect from any cosmopolitan capital, Berlin’s foodscape is
deliciously diverse. Here, casual street vendors and unpretentious pubs
rub shoulders with a varied and international selection of mouthwatering
mid-range and Michelin-starred restaurants.

Fine Dining
Berlin has a growing
number of Michelin-starred
restaurants – 23 in total –
making the city a top
fine-dining destination
for avid foodies. Particular
highlights include FACIL
(p173), Tim Raue, vegetarian
showstopper Cookies Cream,
and locavore-themed
Nobelhart & Schmutzig,
which focuses exclusively
on ingredients from the
Brandenburg region. All
of them offer serious
culinary fireworks.

Chic interior of
Asian-inspired
restaurant Tim Raue

36
 TOP
MUST-TRY
3 DISHES

Currywurst
This dish consists of
chopped pork sausage
and a sauce made of
ketchup, Worcestershire
sauce and curry powder.

Königsberger Klopse
Mince, onions, eggs,
anchovies and flour
are cooked in broth and
served in a creamy sauce.

Eisbein
The pork knuckle is
grilled or boiled and
served with potatoes,
peas and sauerkraut.

Unique Street Food

A trip to Berlin just wouldn’t be complete
without sampling the city’s original street
food. Every neighbourhood has stalls
and kiosks selling hearty street food and
scrumptious snacks like Currywurst
(sausage mixed with ketchup and curry
powder) and Boulette (meatballs).

Grilled fish at
the Sunday
market in
Mauerpark

WEEKEND
FOOD MARKETS
The Saturday food
markets are a vital
institution in Berlin,
serving not only as
places to buy fresh,
organic produce, but
also as meeting points Customers enjoying
and local hang-out Berlin’s oldest beer
spots. Each neighbour- garden, Prater
hood has at least one
major market; some of German Tradition
the best are the ones It may lack the abundant beer-halls of Bavaria, but Berlin
at Kollwitzplatz, certainly pulls its weight when it comes to serving up
Boxhagener Platz and traditional German food. While the standard pub-style
Wittenbergplatz. restaurants (Kneipen) such as Gaststätte Zur letzten Instanz
(p115) remain firm favourites, there are also high-end and
fusion restaurants carrying German cuisine into new territory.

37
 Classic Beer Gardens
There’s nothing quite like enjoying a frothy beer
while watching the summer sun filter gently
through the leaves of Berlin’s copious chestnut
and lime (linden) trees. Prenzlauer Berg’s Prater
is the city’s oldest and simplest beer garden,
while the Tiergarten’s Café am Neuen See is one
of the leafiest, with a lake you can row around, a
restaurant, a self-service casual food area and
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

a children’s play area. Most beer gardens are open

from late April until late September, and usually
offer some kind of snacks or meals. They generally
get lively between 6 and 10pm.

Lakeside Café
am Neuen
See in the
Tiergarten

BERLIN FOR
BEER LOVERS
Germany’s beer culture is world famous, and these days its golden, frothy
pilsners and tasty wheat and dark beers are joined by an array of craft beers
made in local microbreweries, often using traditional techniques.

TOP
GERMAN
3 BEER

Hefeweizen
The traditional
Bavarian Weizenbier
(“wheat beer”). The
sweetness of the
malted wheat is offset
by the high carbonation
and low hop bitterness.

Berliner Weissbier
A local variation of the
Weizenbier, it is often
served in a bowl-shaped Craft Beer
glass with a lager mixer Berlin’s growing interest
or sweet syrups to bal- in the craft beer trend is
ance out the sour flavour. perfectly captured in the
cool aesthetic and inter-
Bock national clientele of spots
First brewed in the 14th such as the Castle Pub in
century, this lager now Mitte and Badfish in
has many variations. Prenzlauer Berg.
The traditional bock is
dark in colour and tastes
rich and sweet. Customers enjoying
the cool atmosphere of
Kreuzberg’s riverbank bars

38
Craft Breweries and
Beer Gardens
A microbrewery with its own

DRINK
beer garden really takes your
experience to the next level,
allowing you to enjoy the
brewery’s home-produced Herman
beers at any time of year – This intimate bar has an
whether inside on a cold impressive selection of
winter day or out in the beers, many from the
summer sun. Eschenbräu owner’s homeland of
in Wedding (p236) has a Belgium. Be warned:
tavern-like interior plus a many of them are
fairly large outside terrace, incredibly strong.
and Brauhaus Südstern § 30 44312854
in Neukölln is a large ⌂ Schönhauser Allee
pub-style space 173
with a beer
¡¡¡
garden that
backs onto
a park. Hops & Barley
A down-to-earth
and friendly pub,
with home-brewed
Berliner Pilsners, beers, simple snacks
made at the like sausage for
Berliner-Kindl- sustenance, and a
Schultheiss friendly, mixed crowd.
brewery
⌂ Wühlischstrasse
22/23
∑ hopsand
barley-berlin.de

¡¡¡

Trendy gastropub
Salt ‘n’ Bone in
Prenzlauer Berg

Classic Kneipen
With all the hipster bars and cafés in the city, Berlin’s Kneipen
(traditional pubs) often get overlooked, which is a shame as
there are some very fine establishments that combine an
excellent beer selection with warm service and a friendly, local
ambience. Dating from 1913, Prenzlauer Berg’s Metzer Eck is
one of the oldest family-run spots in the city. Leuchtturm in
Schöneberg is similarly atmospheric, attracting a mixed but
mostly local clientele to its 19th-century interior: German
filmmaker Wim Wenders is said to drop by from time to time.

39
 Luxury Fashion
Kurfürstendamm is the boulevard
to head to for Chanel, Louis Vuitton,
Prada and Gucci. Intersecting
Tauentzienstrasse has a swish Peek
& Cloppenburg, several upscale stores
such as Swarovski and Montblanc, and
the renowned KaDeWe department
store, which has a fabulous gourmet
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

food area on the sixth floor. Friedrich­

strasse’s Galerie Lafayette also has a
selection of upscale haute couture,
including Dior and Miu Miu.

KaDeWe, the second-

largest department
store in Europe

BERLIN FOR
SHOPPERS
Berlin has it all in terms of retail, from second-hand stores to
Germany’s best luxury malls. The city’s shops are also strong on
antiques, books, art, porcelain and records, and a visit to the city’s
historical market halls is not to be missed.

Mauerpark flea market

in northern Berlin

Local Markets
Most neighbourhoods offer a large market
of some kind, usually food on Saturdays and
a flea market on Sundays. The food markets
at Kollwitzplatz (Prenzlauer Berg) and
Boxhagener Platz (Friedrichshain) are
especially popular, as are the Mauerpark flea
market and Arkonaplatz antiques market.

40
 Mitte’s High-End
Boutiques
Mitte remains the home to
Berlin’s most cutting­edge
designers. Knitwear veteran
Claudia Skoda, jewellery
designer Esther Perbandt and
Wibke Deertz (A.D.Deertz)
display their designs along
the district’s boutique­lined
side streets.

Suitsupply, a
fashionable men’s
clothing store

CHRISTMAS
MARKETS
Berlin fights the winter
gloom with festive
Christmas Markets.
They’re all slightly
different, ranging from
the intimate to the
spectacular. All offer
Glühwein (mulled
wine), snacks and an
assortment of gifts
and entertainment.

Vintage
Vintage stores
are a staple in Berlin,
and there’s at least one
great one in most neighbour­
hoods. The hugely popular
PICKNWEIGHT chain – where
you pay by weight – has stores
in several areas, and also
runs Mitte’s Made in Berlin
and Garage in Schöneberg.
Friedrichshain’s Humana
Kaufhaus is a one­stop shop
for all ages and styles.

Vintage tableware
(inset) and clothes on
sale in Berlin

41
 Culture Lovers
Mainstream galleries such
as the Daimler Contemporary
and Akademie der Künste
have regular free entry
options, while many of
the independent galleries –
especially those around
Auguststrasse – are usually
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

free. For music lovers,

the Philharmonie and
Marienkirche have free
weekly lunchtime concerts,
and Marienkirche offers
regular free organ recitals.
Jazz fans can enjoy cost-free,
high-quality jam sessions at
Mitte’s B-Flat club.

Last Night’s Fortune Teller, an

exhibition of Chinese art at
the Daimler Contemporary

BERLIN
ON A BUDGET
Berlin is impressively affordable compared to many western European
capitals, and food, beer, accommodation and cultural events can all be
enjoyed on a modest budget – some even for free.

Classic Berlin Dining

Berlin’s farmer’s markets
offer traditional and cheap
take-away options like grilled
fish or falafel, as well as
providing a great atmosphere
where you can experience
Berlin like a local. The city is
also home to great street food
markets – like those every
Thursday at Markthalle IX.

INSIDER TIP
Bus Routes
The 100, 200 and 300
buses carry passengers
past major city sights
such as the Fernsehturm
and Brandenburger
Tor – all for the price of
a bus ticket. Buy a day
Street food dish from ticket to hop on and off.
Markthalle IX

42
 STAY
Circus Hostel
Centrally located
budget boutique hotel.
 M3 ⌂ Weinbergsweg
1A, North Mitte
∑ circus-berlin.de
¡¡¡

EastSeven
Small indie hostel
with a relaxed vibe.
 N2 ⌂ Schwedter
Strasse 7, Prenzlauer
Berg ∑ eastseven.de
¡¡¡

Historical Insights
In Berlin, centuries of fascinating history
is free to explore. Iconic sights like the
Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag cost
nothing to visit; nor do major wartime
and GDR-era sights such as the poignant
Holocaust Memorial, the Topography of
Terror, the Berlin Wall Memorial and the
unmissable East Side Gallery (p151).

Sun peeking through

Brandenburger Tor on Pariser Platz

Park Secrets
Berlin’s city parks offer not only
open spaces for walks, picnics and
sunbathing, but also insights into
local history. Mauerpark contains
some remnants of the Berlin Wall,
while Tempelhofer Feld’s former
airport buildings have plenty of
relics from the Third Reich and
Cold War eras.

Street entertainers
at Mauerpark

43
 Local Parks
Every Berlin neighbourhood
has its own Volkspark (people’s
park), which are much loved
and well used by locals. Each
has its own style and charac-
ter: Volkspark Friedrichshain
(p148), for example, has
volleyball and tennis courts,
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

GDR-era memorials and a

beautiful fountain covered
in fairy-tale statues.

Märchenbrunnen, the
fairy-tale fountain in
Volkspark Friedrichshain

BERLIN FOR
GREEN SPACES
Berlin has an unfair reputation for being industrial and grey, but in reality
it’s bursting with life and colour thanks to a variety of beautiful green
spaces – not least the sprawling, sight-studded Grunewald forest in the
south-east – as well as numerous waterways and abundant lakes.

Boats cruising along

TOP
BERLIN
3
a peaceful stretch of
LAKES the Spree river

Strandbad Wannsee
With a sweeping 1.2-km
(0.7-mile) beach full of
white sand from the
Baltic, wicker chairs and
1920s architecture, this
lake (p240) is a classic
summer destination.

Müggelsee
Berlin’s largest lake
(p232) has a beach
offering volleyball, a
playground and a large,
shallow water area
that’s especially good
for kids and families.

Liepnitzsee
Further afield, this lake
requires a bit more effort
to get to, and has no
facilities, but it’s popular
for its tranquil atmo-
sphere and clean water.

44
Vibrant Gardens
The city’s gardens come
into their own in spring, but
can be enjoyed at any time of
year. The Botanischer Garten
in Dahlem (p248) is the big
hitter, with a year-round
schedule of events, and
tropical greenhouses to enjoy
in colder months. In the east,
the Gärten der Welt offers
an array of themed gardens
and a Chinese tea pavilion.

Plants and colourful

flowers (inset) in Dahlem’s
Botanischer Garten

Winding Waterways
Meandering through the city are Berlin’s main
rivers, the Spree and the Havel, plus a vast net-
work of canals. Infact, Berlin has more bridges
than Venice. Home to a vibrant boating scene,
these waterways are also a haven for nature
lovers, offering miles of riverside strolling
within easy striking distance of the city centre.

45
 Pop Concerts
Most of the big pop and rock
acts pass through Berlin on
their European tours and
there are several exciting
venues where you can catch
them. The most central is
the Mercedes-Benz Arena in
Friedrichshain, which hosts
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

a mix of German and inter-

national stars , while the
tent-shaped Tempodrom is
one of the city’s most popular
and idiosyncratic venues.

Roger Waters of rock band

Pink Floyd, playing at the
Olympiastadion

BERLIN FOR
MUSIC LOVERS
Berlin’s varied music scene is world famous. With everything from classical
performances and pop concerts to a regular calendar of indie and alternative
live acts, this city really runs the gamut. Whether you wish to dance to
techno or sing the blues, you’ll find every genre has a home in Berlin.

Inspiring Classical Music

For classical music connoisseurs,
and anyone who wants to experience
the best of Berlin, a concert at a
grand, traditional venue such as
the Konzerthaus (p74) will show
you why Berlin is one of Europe’s
leading classical music destinations.

The Berlin Philharmonic at

Musikfest Berlin, a classical
music festival

46
 Indie Music
Berlin is a magnet for all forms of alternative culture,
and music is no exception. Here you can find an array
of local, national and global indie stars at cool clubs
across the city, including punk favourite SO36 in
Kreuzberg. There’s also a collection of venues –
Cassiopeia, Astra, Suicide Circus – at Friedrichshain’s
RAW Gelände complex (p150).

Lido, a popular
alternative
music venue
in Kreuzberg

BOWIE IN BERLIN
David Bowie spent
three years (1976–9)
in Schöneberg, during
which time he produced
albums Low and Heroes
at the famous Hansa
Studios (p187), worked
with renowned pro­
ducer Brian Eno, and
hung out at hotspots
such as SO36 (p189) and
the Paris Bar. A plaque
at his former home
(155 Haupstrasse) pays
tribute to his time here.

Jazz
Berlin’s jazz
scene may not
get much press,
but locals can tell you
it remains an integral
part of the city’s musical
landscape. Long­standing
traditional jazz venues such
as A­Trane, Quasimodo and
B­Flat offer up consistently
high­quality line­ups of
international and local
players. There is also a
slew of underground and
alternative venues where
musicians (both German
and global) fuse jazz with
soul, pop, rock and elec­
tronica. Jazz­themed events
take place all year round,
culminating in the city’s Jazz musicians performing
long­running Jazz Festival at Quasimodo (inset)
each November. and Jazzfest Berlin

47
 Berlin by Bike
Berlin is one of Europe’s
great cycling cities, with
over 900 km (550 miles) of
bike routes. The inner city is
criss-crossed with bike lanes
(fahrradwege), making it ideal
for sightseeing on two wheels.
Outside the centre, there are
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

marked routes that run along

the Panke river, around the
Tegeler See, through the
Grunewald forest and even
along the former Berlin Wall
(p51). Highly recommended is
the 28-km (17-mile) Wannsee
route RR1, one of the longest
and most scenic cycling
trails in Berlin. Starting at
Schlossplatz (p96), it winds
through the city’s south-
eastern suburbs, ending at
the historic Gleinicker Brücke,
or the “Bridge of Spies”.

BERLIN FOR
OUTDOOR
ACTIVITIES
Although Berlin is known for its vibrant cultural scene, it’s also a great place to
enjoy the outdoors. From fun and frivolous to downright quirky, the city offers
an impressive spread of outdoor pursuits to get your adrenaline pumping.

On the Water
Berlin’s lakes, such as
Wannsee (p240) in the West
and Müggelsee (p232) in the
East, are ideal for watersports,
with options to sail yachts,
rent motorboats or try water-
skiing. Insel der Jugend (p231)
has pedalo and rowing boats
for hire, while StandUpClub
Berlin (www.standupclub.de)
offers SUP lessons. Wannsee’s
Water Sports Center Berlin
(www.segelschule-wannsee.
de) also has various courses.

Sailing boats by the

Grunewaldturm, on
the scenic Wannsee

48
 TOP
CYCLE RENTAL
3 COMPANIES

Fat Tire Bike

Rentals
Reserve a bike online,
pick it up and off you go.
∑ fattiretours.
com/berlin

Berlin on Bike
Choose from a range
of themed tours, or
hire a bike and explore
on your own.
∑ berlinonbike.de

Berlin Take
a Bike
Conveniently located
on the Wall Cycle Path.
One of Germany’s most famous
∑ takeabike.de
landmarks, the majestic
Brandenburg Gate

Hiking Trails
Strike out in pretty much any direction
and within an hour you’ll be in the rural
environs of Brandenburg. Here, the
Wuhletal hiking trail winds its way
south from Eichepark to Köpenick
S-Bahn station via the Wuhle river
valley and various pleasant meadows
and parks. The Havel Heights Trail
(Havelhöhenweg) runs along the
Havel from Pichelsberg through
Grunewald to the Strandbad Wannsee.
The Panke Hiking trail starts at Bernau
in Brandenburg and ends in the city
centre, taking in Alt-Lübars (the oldest
village in Berlin), Schloss Tegel (p237)
and the Lübarser Felder nature reserve,
where you can see water buffaloes.

The beautiful canopy

walkway near Beelitz, on
the outskirts of Berlin

Daredevil Pursuits
Berlin is a playground for visitors of all ages
and abilities seeking adventurous pursuits.
Options include base flying, taking a ride over
Berlin in the iconic Die Welt helium balloon,
one of the world’s biggest, or partaking in a
high-rope course either in the city or the
more rural Jungfernheide forest.

Base flying from the top of the

Park Inn hotel on Alexanderplatz

49
 The Story of Berlin
For an overview of the city’s
800-year history, head to the
Berlin Story Bunker (p186).
Another must-visit is the
Jewish Museum (p182), which
documents the integration
and eventual destruction
of the city’s Jewish population.
DISCOVER Berlin Your Way

The Märkisches Museum

(p98) is also worth a visit for
its collection of local artifacts.

The interactive Family

Album collection at
the Jewish Museum

BERLIN FOR
HISTORY BUFFS
Home to Prussian palaces, Soviet architecture, monuments, and of course
the infamous wall that once divided the East and West, Berlin’s turbulent
and fascinating history continues to draw visitors back time and time again.
Nowhere else seems to offer such an insight into the events of the past.

GDR History
Traces of the GDR (German Democratic Republic)
can be seen everywhere in the city. The DDR
Museum (p110) offers a look at East German life,
with exhibits spanning the methods of the
secret police, a prison cell and a reconstructed
apartment. To see the Berlin Wall, visit the
East Side Gallery (p151), which features murals
from 118 artists. A more historical experience
can be had at the Berlin Wall Memorial (p122),
which is packed with installations and stories
of daring escapes and tragic deaths.

50
Prussian Capital
The Hohenzollerns ruled Berlin, Prussia and
eventually Germany for over 500 years until
the end of World War I and transformed Berlin
from a humble backwater to a cosmopolitan
European capital. They created many of the
city’s grand sights and cultural institutions,
such as Unter den Linden, Tiergarten and
Schloss Charlottenburg. They also built most
of Museumsinsel, the Berliner Dom, the Rotes
Rathaus and the Reichstag, among others.
The most famous Hohenzollern building is the
Stadtschloss (City Palace), a reconstruction
of which is set to open in 2021.

Visitors at the
Charlottenburg Palace,
a Berlin landmark

THE BERLIN
WALL TRAIL
Construction of the
Mauerweg (Berlin Wall
Trail) began in 2002
and was completed
in 2006. It traces the
course of the former
GDR border fortifi­
cations encircling West
Berlin for around 160
km (99 miles). This trail
can be hiked or cycled,
either in its totality,
or by choosing one or
more of its 14 sections.
Along the way there
are stretches of natural
beauty, memorials to
those who perished
at the Wall and infor­
mation points with
other interesting facts.
The path also runs
across Mauerpark
(p234), which was
More than 100 graffiti originally part of
paintings (inset) cover the Berlin Wall.
the East Side Gallery

51
 A YEAR IN
BERLIN
DISCOVER A Year in Berlin

Berlin’s calendar is liberally peppered with festivities and events

that reflect the city’s alternative spirit. Think world-renowned music
festivals, edgy art fairs and open-air film screenings in summer, and
fairytale Christmas markets that bring festive cheer to wintery nights.

Spring
You can almost hear the collective sigh of relief when Berlin’s KARNEVAL DER
winter begins to thaw. Warm sunshine finally pierces the grey KULTUREN
skies and fresh blooms adorn the city streets. Busy cafés spill In May, Berlin parties
out onto pavements and there is an expectant buzz as city for three days with a
life tentatively shifts outdoors once again. As well as urban colourful street parade
strolls and bike rides, spring brings on a wave of contemporary and carnival in edgy
music and film festivals, and art galleries open their doors Kreuzberg. The event
for free during the long-awaited Gallery Weekend in May. features performers
1. Cyclists ride beneath a leafy canopy of fresh spring growth of all age groups and
ethnic backgrounds as
the community comes
Summer together to promote
Summer is by far the best season to experience the German peace, tolerance and
capital in all its leafy, laid-back glory as locals head outdoors multiculturalism.
to enjoy the city’s abundant parks, green spaces and lakeside

1 2

52
beaches. This is the season for picnics and wild swimming,
TOP
CHRISTMAS
5
beer gardens and open air events such as the spectacular
Karneval der Kulturen, Pride Festival and Fête de la Musique. MARKETS
2. Berliners enjoying some summer sun at Muggelsee
Spandau
One of the biggest, set
Autumn in the charming old
town of Spandau (p239).
Autumn in Berlin can be highly atmospheric, with mellowing
temperatures, bright, clear skies and polychromatic hues.
Gendarmenmarkt
Locals make the most of the outdoors until around mid-
The glitziest, with
November, when single-digit temperatures and shorter days
sparkling white tents
equate to hibernation mode. The annual Festival of Lights
and gourmet treats.
brightens the city up though, while events like the European
Month of Photography keep cultural flâneurs on their toes. Luzia at the
3. The Berliner Dom surrounded by golden foliage Kulturbrauerei
The smallest and
cutest, with a lovely
Winter Scandinavian twist.
Winter brings fairytale charm, especially in December when
Christmas markets offer glühwein, grilled snacks (inset)and Schloss
a plentiful supply of gemütlichkeit (cosiness and good cheer). Charlottenburg
Outdoor activities don’t stop as locals take to the ice on The regal all-rounder,
skating rinks, or head to the surrounding forests for winter with food, local crafts
walks. Cafés, bars and cultural spaces and fairground rides.
provide entertainment and
warmth, as do events Alexanderplatz
like the Transmediale, The most central, this
Berlinale and Berlin market offers a decent
Fashion Week. spread of stalls, a ferris
wheel and an ice rink.
4. Alexanderplatz
Christmas market

3 4

53
DISCOVER A Brief History

A BRIEF 1

HISTORY
Over the course of seven centuries Berlin grew from fishing village
to successful trading city and capital of Prussia. Having survived two
world wars and over four decades of internal division, it is now the
capital of one of the world’s leading nations.

From Village to Prosperous Town 1 A woodcut of the

Berlin’s written history began in the early 13th century, when Stadtschloss palace.
the twin settlements of Berlin and Cölln grew up on opposite 2 Friedrich Wilhelm (the
banks of the Spree river, around what is now the Nikolaiviertel Great Elector), ruler of
(p116). Trading in fish, rye and timber, the towns formed an Brandenburg-Prussia
alliance in 1307, becoming Berlin-Cölln, a deal celebrated by from 1640 to 1688.
the construction of a joint town hall. 3 Friedrich II (Frederick
the Great) King of Prussia
The Hohenzollern Era from 1740 to 1786.
In 1411, Friedrich von Hohenzollern became the town’s special 4 August Borsig’s
protector, inaugurating what would become a 500-year rule for locomotive factory.

Timeline of events

1307 1415 1432

Signing of the Friedrich von Unification of
treaty between Hohenzollern Cölln and
Cölln and Berlin. appointed Elector Berlin.
of Brandenburg.

1244 1618–48
First written
Thirty Years’ War
reference to the
between Habsburg
settlement of Berlin.
states and other
European countries.

54
 3

2 4

the House of Hohenzollern. By 1443 Elector Friedrich II

had begun construction of the town’s first castle, the future PEACE OF
Stadtschloss, which became the Elector’s official residence WESTPHALIA
in 1451. The city grew and thrived during the 15th and 16th After four years of
centuries, but was also decimated by successive epidemics negotiations, the
of the bubonic plague and the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48), German states, France
which turned the whole of the Holy Roman Empire into a and Sweden signed the
bloody battlefield. Friedrich Wilhelm von Hohenzollern (later Peace of Westphalia
known as the Great Elector; p215) ascended the Brandenburg treaties. This resulted
throne in 1640, ushering in a period of unprecedented growth. in major losses of
territory for Germany,
Beginnings of the Modern City and a new political
Despite Napoleon’s defeat of Prussia in 1806 and a subsequent system emerged,
two-year occupation of the city, Berlin grew exponentially with German princes
throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. A slew of significant enjoying complete
rulers, including the “Soldier-King” Friedrich Wilhelm I (1713– political independence,
40) and Friedrich II (Frederick the Great, 1740–86), oversaw the under a weakened
city’s transformation into a sophisticated cultural centre. By emperor and pope.
the early 19th century Prussia was industrialising rapidly, with
August Borsig opening his locomotive factory in Berlin in 1837.

1685 1806
Edict of Potsdam Beginning of the
allows large two-year French
numbers of French 1791 occupation of Berlin.
Huguenot refugees Brandenburger Tor
to settle in Berlin. completed.

1701
Coronation of 1806–14
Friedrich III as the Quadriga chariot atop
first king of Prussia. the Brandenburger Tor
is on display in Paris.

55
DISCOVER A Brief History

1 2

Building an Empire
Otto von Bismarck was appointed Chancellor under Wilhelm I,
with a foreign policy to install Prussia in Austria’s place at the
head of all German-speaking states. Over the next six years,
Prussia declared war on Denmark, Austria and France, acquiring
and annexing various new territories. Bismarck’s next move
was the proclamation of a German Empire on 18 January 1871,
with Berlin as its capital and King Wilhelm I as Kaiser (Emperor).
Abolition of trade barriers and massive reparations paid by
France after her defeat in the Franco-Prussian war (1870–71)
led Berlin to enter another period of rapid industrial growth,
accompanied by a population explosion (from 300,000
inhabitants in 1850 to 1.9 million by 1900).

Triumph and Disaster

The late 19th century saw an explosion of scientific invention
in Berlin, including the completion of a new sewage system
in 1876 which dramatically improved public health. By 1879 The first German
electric lamps lit the streets and in 1881 the first telephones telephone, by Siemens
were installed. A year later the first urban train line, the S-Bahn, & Halske (1878)

Timeline of events

1844 1870–1 1871

Opening of Franco- Unification of
the Berlin Zoo Prussian War. Germany; Berlin
(Zoologischer Annexation becomes the
Garten). of French capital of the
territories. German Empire.

1882
Opening of the S-Bahn,
the first urban train line.

56
 3

was opened. Berlin’s booming cultural life was headed by such 1 Otto von Bismarck,
outstanding figures as writer Theodor Fontane and artists Max Prussian statesman and
Liebermann (p245) and Käthe Kollwitz. As the city prospered, the first Chancellor of the
however, political developments throughout Europe were German Empire.
moving towards the stalemate of 1914. Initially, the outbreak of 2 The Artist’s Studio,
World War I had little effect on life in Berlin, but the subsequent Max Liebermann, 1902.
famine, strikes and total German defeat led to the November 3 Playwright and
Revolution in 1918, and the abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II. director Bertolt Brecht in
his studio, with his
The Weimar Republic colleague Elisabeth
A new constitution was signed in the town of Weimar in 1919, Hauptmann.
and throughout the subsequent “Weimar years” (1919–33)
Germany struggled with political and economic instability. In
Berlin, urban reform dramatically increased the size of the city,
and the population swelled to 3.8 million. The city fell on hard
times due to rising unemployment and hyperinflation, but
despite this Berlin became the centre of a lively cultural scene.
Leading figures included Max Reinhardt (p126) and Bertolt
Brecht, and institutions like the Berlin Philharmonic (p166)
and UFA film studio (p265) gained worldwide fame.

1897 1914–18
Berlin’s Institute World War I
for the Science of devastates Europe; 1920
Sexuality is the Allied victory leads
The Greater Berlin
world’s first gay- to the fall of the
Act expands the
rights organization German Empire.
size of the city.
to lobby for the
legal rights of gay,
lesbian and trans-
gender people.
1918
November Revolution
and the abdication of
Kaiser Wilhelm II.

57
 1
DISCOVER A Brief History

2 3

The Third Reich and World War II

The world stock-market crash of 1929 and the ensuing
Depression put the German government under great pressure,
paving the way for extremist politicians and the appointment
of Adolf Hitler as Chancellor in 1933. The Reichstag fire in
February of that year was used as a pretext to arrest Communist
and liberal opponents, and, by March 1933, Hitler’s Nazi
(National Socialist German Workers) Party was in control.
Hitler’s invasion of Poland in 1939 signalled the start of World
War II and in January 1942, the systematic extermination of all
European Jews began. Finally, after years of bitter warfare, the
tide began to turn against the Germans. In April 1945 more
than 1.5 million Soviet soldiers invaded Berlin, where they
found the populace starving and the city lying in ruins. Hitler
committed suicide shortly after and Germany conceded defeat.

Divided City and Reunification

At the Potsdam Conference of 1945 (p262), Berlin was divided An Allied soldier finds the
into four sectors, occupied by Soviet, US, British and French head of a broken Hitler
troops. This put the city at the centre of the Cold War (1947–91), statue in the ruins of Berlin.

Timeline of events

1933 1961
Hitler accedes Construction of the
to power. Berlin Wall begins,
with the installation
of barbed-wire fencing.
1939–45
World War II; much of
Berlin damaged or 1963
destroyed during air US President John F Kennedy
raids and the Battle proclaims “Ich bin ein
of Berlin. Berliner” (“I am a Berliner”)
in a speech in Schöneberg.

58
 4

1 Ruins of the Reichstag

between the Soviet Union and the US and NATO. Tensions after the 1933 fire.
increased in 1949 with the birth of two German states: the
2 Adolf Hitler, Chancellor
Federal Republic of Germany in the west, and the German
of Nazi Germany, saluting
Democratic Republic (GDR) in the east. East Berlin became German troops.
the capital of the GDR, and the isolated West Berlin remained
a separate enclave of western Germany in the heart of the 3 Fall of the Berlin Wall.
Communist eastern state. It was eventually enclosed by 4 A street in present-day
the Berlin Wall for 28 years, and GDR authorities shot at any Prenzlauer Berg.
refugees attempting to cross the border. The political changes
that swept across Eastern Europe in 1989 led to the fall of the
Wall, and on 3 October 1990 Germany was officially reunified.

Berlin Today Did You Know?

Berlin’s cutting-edge cultural scene attracts visitors from all Berlin’s new international
over the world. People are also drawn to the city’s relatively airport (BBI), delayed
affordable rents and burgeoning opportunities in the creative by almost a decade,
and start-up business sectors. With several LGBT+ districts cost an estimated
and a large population of immigrants, the city’s inclusive €6.9 billion.
atmosphere continues to make Berlin a model city for
communities around the globe.

1989 1991
New border crossing Berlin becomes the
regulations lead to capital of reunified
the fall of the Berlin Germany on 20 June.
Wall on 9 November.
1990
Official reunification of
Germany on 3 October, 2014
with the merging of the Germany wins the World
Federal Republic of Cup; celebration of the
Germany and the German 25th anniversary of the
Democratic Republic. fall of the Berlin Wall.

59
DZ Bank building on Pariser Platz

EXPERIENCE
Around Unter
den Linden .................................................62

Museumsinsel ..........................................82

Alexanderplatz ......................................102

North Mitte and

Prenzlauer Berg ..................................... 118

Friedrichshain ........................................ 142

Tiergarten ................................................. 152

Kreuzberg ................................................. 178

Around Kurfürstendamm................196

Around Schloss
Charlottenburg.................................... 208

Beyond the Centre ............................220

Schiller’s Monument and the Deutscher Dom

AROUND UNTER
DEN LINDEN
The poetic name of central Mitte’s grand
boulevard Unter den Linden (Under the Linden
Trees) comes from the trees that line part of
this avenue between the Stadtschloss city palace
and the Brandenburg Gate.
The area’s development began in the Baroque
period with the establishment of Dorotheenstadt
to the north and Friedrichstadt to the south. From
the early 18th century, prestigious buildings
began to appear here, and over the following
two centuries Unter den Linden became one
of the city’s most imposing avenues. World War II
bombing took a heavy toll but, despite only partial
reconstruction by the East German government,
the area is still home to the highest concentration
of historic buildings in Berlin.

63
AROUND UNTER H um b o ldHt um b o ld

DEN LINDEN Charité Charité U n ive r s itä

U nt ive r s it
Universitätsmedizin
Universitätsmedizin
Berlin Berlin

Must See
Deutsches
Deutsches

LUISENS

LUISENS
1 Zeughaus (DHM) Theater Theater

M
AR

AR
GA

GA
RE

RE
Experience More

TE

TE
SSE SSE
TRA TRA

TRASSE

TRASSE
NNS NNS

-S

-S
UMA UMA
2 Maxim Gorki Theater

TE

TE
SCH SCH

FF

FF
REI

FI

FI
3 Staatsbibliothek

N-

N-
ST

ST
Ka Ka

RA

RA
4 Palais am Festungsgraben
pe pe

SS

SS
ll ll
e- e-
B

E
U U
5 Humboldt Universität
f f
E

er

er
Kronprinzen-Kronprinzen-
6 Neue Wache brücke brücke
IENS
SE
TRAS ENSTRAS
I
SE
MAR MAR
7 Reiterdenkmal
Friedrichs des Grossen NORTH
NORTH
MITTEMITTE
AND AN
8 Altes Palais
PRENZLAUER
PRENZLAUER
BERG BER
p118 p118
9 Pierre Boulez Saal

REI CH

REI CH
10 Kronprinzenpalais
STA

STA
e e
11 Staatsoper Unter den Linden re re
GU

GU
FE
Sp Sp

FE
ER
12 St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale
UF U
R

R
G G
S TA S TA
Marschallbrücke
Marschallbrücke ICH ICH
RE RE
13 Alte Bibliothek ReichstagReichstag

BUN SEN -

BUN SEN -
STR ASS E

STR ASS E
14 Unter den Linden

WILHEL

WILHEL
FRIEDRICH- FRIEDRICH-

15 Komische Oper
EBERT- EBERT-
PLATZ PLATZ NEUS

SCH ADO WST

KI
16 Französischer Dom
E STR ASS E
ASSEEN
STROTH
OTH EEN

MSTRAS

MSTRAS
S C H E I D E MSACNHNESI TDRE.M A NDOR
NSTR. DOR
French French
17 Akademie der Künste Eugen-Gutmann-
Eugen-Gutmann-
EmbassyEmbassy
Haus Haus
18 Konzerthaus
SE

SE

R.
Haus Sommer
Haus Sommer DE
19 Friedrichstadtpassagen UN TE R UN TE R
Brandenburger Tor
Brandenburger Tor
20 Gendarmenmarkt Pariser Pariser
Brandenburger
Brandenburger
PLATZ VON DEM
PLATZ VON DEM Platz PlatzTor Tor
21 Deutscher Dom
BRANDENBURGER
BRANDENBURGER TOR TOR
Russische
Russisc
Haus Liebermann
Haus Liebermann Botschaft
Botscha
22 Cold War Black Box British British
Akademie
Akademie
EmbassyEmbassy
23 Ehemaliges Regierungsviertel US US Künste
der der Künste
EmbassyEmbassy SE SE
24 Holocaust Denkmal RAS RAS
E NST E NS
T
M I T TMEI T T E
B EHR B EHR
25 Asisi Panorama Berlin
26 Museum für Kommunikation
Holocaust
Holocaust
MAU

SE E
27 Admiralspalast DenkmalDenkmalS T R A S STR
ASS
WIL

WIL

DT- T-
E

END
28 Brandenburger Tor -A REN -AR
HE

HE

NAH NAH
COR

COR

HAN HAN
29 Russische Botschaft TIERGARTEN
TIERGARTEN
LM

LM
A-B

A-B

STR

STR

30 Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse
p152 p152
ERL

ERL
TRASSE

TRASSE

ASS

ASS
INER-STRA

INER-STRA

31 Pariser Platz
ÄRTEN ÄRTEN
INISTERG INISTERG
E

IN DEN M IN DEN M
SS

SS

R R
AN DE ADE AN DE ADE
E

E
RA

RA

É ST É ST K OL O N
N
K OL O N
N
NN NN
Eat LE LE
EBERTS

EBERTS

SSE

SSE

ZIETEN- ZIE
PLATZ PL
1 Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt
R A S SOES S S T R A S S E
VOSS ST V
Stay Mall of Berlin
Mall of Berlin
2 Clipper City Home
3 Hotel Adlon
LEIPZIGER LEIPZIGER
PLATZ PLATZ

POTSDAMERPOTSDAMER
Shop
WIL

PLATZ PLATZ PotsdamerPotsdamer

Bundesrat
Bundesrat Platz Platz
HEL

4 Galeries Lafayette Ehemaliges

Ehemaliges
MS

5 Quartier 206 Art & Fashion House Regierungsviertel

Regierungsviertel
ST

ST

TRA
RE

RE

Bundesministerien und
Bundesministerien und
SE

SE

Abgeordnetenhaus
Abgeordnetenhaus
M

M
ADE

ADE
AN

AN
NS

NS
MEN

MEN
TR

TR
PRO

PRO

TRASSE TRAS
AS

AS

RCHNERS RCHNERS
Neue Neue NIEDERKI NIEDERKI
SE

SE

Nationalgalerie Staats- Staats-

Nationalgalerie
GIT

GIT

bibliothek
bibliothek Martin-Gropius-
Martin-Gropius-
TER

TER

Bau Bau
LE-

LE-
RIE

RIE
GAB

GAB
 E E
ASS ASS
STR STR
OR OR UST UST
OranienburgerA N I E
dOranienburger
t AN
IEN AUG AUG
tät Tor Tor N B U R G BU
RG
ER ER
FRIEDRI

FRIEDRI
STR STR
. .
S C H E USNC EHNE -U N E N -
VIERTV E LI E R T E L AROUNDAROUND
UNTER UNTER
Oranienburger
Oranienburger
Strasse Strasse DEN LINDEN
DEN LINDEN
CHSTRAS

CHSTRAS

J O H A N N I S JSOT H
RA N
S SNEI S S T R A S S E

SE

SE
Friedrichstadtpalast
Friedrichstadtpalast

RAS

RAS

SE

SE
E E

RAS

RAS
ASS ASS

YST

YST
SE

SE

STR STR
RDT RDT SE SE
NHA NHA

UST

UST
Z I E G E L S T RZAI SE G E L S T R A S
LSK

LSK
REI

B IJ O

B IJ O
HO

HO
TUC

TUC

MON

MON
Berliner Berliner Ebert- Ebert-
EnsembleEnsemble brücke brücke Hackescher
Hackescher
BERTOLT-
BRECHT-
Weidendammer
BERTOLT-
Brücke
BRECHT-
Weidendammer
Brücke DA M M Monbijou- S p re e
Monbijou- S p re e Markt Markt
EN E N DA M M brücke brücke
PLATZ PLATZ AM W E I D AM W E I D
Bode- Bode-
GESCHWISTER

GESCHWISTER

Museum Museum
AM

AM
PLA NC

PLA NC

ND
KU

KU
Admiralspalast
Admiralspalast
PF

PF
ER

ER
RG
GR

GR
Pergamon-
Pergamon-
K

Heiliggeist-
Heiliggeist-
-SCHOLL-STR

-SCHOLL-STR

AB

AB
STR

STR

BahnhofBahnhof museum museum

EN

EN
kapelle kapelle
ASS

ASS

Friedrichstrasse
Friedrichstrasse
E

Friedrichstrasse
Friedrichstrasse Friedrichbrücke
Friedrichbrücke
MU SE E

MU
AS SS
.

SE RA

SE
S T R A S S- E STRASSE
- TR
e SCHLEGEL-PLATZ GEORGEN GEORGEN UM ST

UM
DOROTHEA- DOROTHEA-
STR ASS E STR ASS E FS TR . UH O FS TR . ES DE
BA UH O ST D

ST
SCHLEGEL-PLATZ
GEO RG EN - GEO RG EN -
BA
BO B Berliner
O Berliner . .
PLANCKSTR

PLANCKSTR

TR TR
HEGEL- HEGEL-

AM

AM
R.

R.
ER
UF PLATZ PLATZ
Dom Dom S S
NEUSTÄDTISCHE

NEUSTÄDTISCHE

T- T-

LU

LU
FRIEDRIC

FRIEDRIC

Maxim Gorki Maxim Gorki CH CH

KIRCHSTR.

KIRCHSTR.

ST

ST
Theater Theater NE NE

GA

GA
NS TR . NS TR .
DO ROTH EE DO ROTH EE
.

BK BK

RT

RT
Palais amPalais am IE IE

EN

EN
UN IVE RSI TÄT

UN IVE RSI TÄT

Festungsgraben
Festungsgraben -L -L
ENSTR. ENSTR. RL RL
CHARLOT TEN

CHARLOT TEN

DOROTHE DOROTHE Humboldt Humboldt KA A

HSTRASS

HSTRASS

Staatsbi-Staatsbi- K
Liebknecht- Liebknecht-
STÄDTISCHER
NEUSTÄDTISCHER bliothek bliothekUniversität Universität Zeughaus Zeughaus brücke brücke
(DHM) (DHM)
SCH ADO WST

IRCHPLATZ KIRCHPLATZ
T R A SI TS TE E L S T R A SUnter
SE
SST R.

SST R.

MITTELS M den Unter den

STR.

STR.

Linden Linden Museumsinsel

Museumsinsel
E

Unter den Unter den Neue Neue

Linden Linden ReiterdenkmalReiterdenkmal Wache WacheKronprinzen- MUSEUMS-
Kronprinzen- MUSEUMS-
R.

Friedrichs
Friedrichs
des Grossen
des Grossen palais palais INSEL INSEL
EN LIN N N LIN DE N
DEDE
Staatsoper
Staatsoper
NIEDER

N I E DIENRK E

Altes Palais
Altes Palais Z Z
SC

SC

UDL UDL AT AT
PL PL
H

HIN

BEBEL- BEBEL-
PLATZ PLATZ SS SS
GLINKAST

GLINKAST

Alte Bibliothek
Alte Bibliothek
KE

LO LO
L AG ST R

L ALG S T R

Komische
Komische H H
LP

SC Marstall
SC Marstall
PL .

LA

Oper Oper
AT

che Pierre Pierre

TZ
Z

RASSE RASSE
B E H R E N S TB E H R E N S T
.

aft Boulez Saal

Boulez Saal ER ER
TRASSE TRASSE St-Hedwigs-
St-Hedwigs-
R.

R.

BEHRENS BEHRENS SCH SCH

W E R M A R K W E R M A R K MUSEUMSINSEL
MUSEUMSINSEL
Kathedrale
Kathedrale DER T DER T
UNT

UNT

p82 p82
ERW

ERW

S T R A S S ES T R A S S E
ISCHE ISCHE
F R A N Z Ö SF R A N Z Ö S
ASS

ASS

E
O B E RW A

O B E RW A

Sp

Sp
ERS

ERS

Französischer
Französischer
ree

ree
TR.

TR.
K U ST R A S S E

KU

Galeries Galeries Dom DomE R S T R A S S E E R S T R A S S E

L L ST R A S

LL
RS

RS

ka

ka

LafayetteLafayette JÄG JÄG

G LM

GLINKAST

TR

TR

na

na
FR

FR
I NAKUAES T

Gendarmenmarkt
Gendarmenmarkt
AS

AS

R A SÄSGEE R S T R A S S E
l

l
IED

IED

JÄGERST
OB

OB

J
SE

SE

SE
CHARLOT T

CHARLOT T

RI

RI

Friedrichstadt-
Friedrichstadt- Konzerthaus
Konzerthaus
ER

ER
CH

CH
RST

R SRTA S S E

Hausvogteiplatz
Hausvogteiplatz
WA

WA

passagenpassagen
RASSE

. .
TA U B E N S T RTA U B E N S T R
SG

SG
SS

SS
RA

RA
RAS

RAS

ER

ER

HAUSVOGTEI-HAUSVOGTEI-
CH

CH

RASSE RASSE
ST

ST

TA U B E N ST TA U B E N ST PLATZ PLATZ KU KU
T

Deutscher
Deutscher
Dom Dom
SE

SE

RA

RA
ENSTR.

ENSTR.

NI NI RS RS
SS

SS

ED ED TR TR
The Q. The Q.
E

A S S E A S S E ER ER AS AS
R R
H E L M -A M O -ST
H E L M -A M O -ST W W SE SE
A N TO N -W I L A N TO N -W I L AL AL
JER USA LEM

JER USA LEM

-ST R A S S E -ST R A S S E Mohren- Mohren- LS LS

MA RK GR AF

MA RK GR AF

H E L M -A M O H E L M -A M O TR TR
A N TO N -W I L A N TO N -W I L kolonnaden kolonnaden AS AS
SE SE
Anton-Wilhelm- StadtmitteStadtmitte
Anton-Wilhelm-
TEN-
Amo-Strasse
Amo-Strasse RASSE RASSE
KRONENST KRONENST
ER STR .

ER STR .

LATZ SPITTEL- SPITTEL-

EN ST R.

EN ST R.

MARKT WA LLS TRA SSE

MARKT WA LLS TRA SSE
RASSE RASSE
KRONENST KRONENST

R S T RRA S S SET R A S S E
L E I P Z I GLEE I P Z I G E Spittelmarkt
Spittelmarkt

E
S TERRA S SS T R A S S
E Spittelkolonnaden
Spittelkolonnaden
CHARLOT

CHARLOT

ER
SE

SE

L E I P Z I LG E I P Z I G
FRIEDRICH

FRIEDRICH

YD

YD

STRASSE STRASSE
EL

EL

KRAUSEN KRAUSEN
ST

ST
R.

R.
MA RKG R AFE

MA RKG R AFE
TENSTRAS

TENSTRAS

Museum Museum
für für
RA

RA
ST

ST
WIL

SS

SS

Kommunikation
Kommunikation
R-

R-

KO KO
E

MM MM
GE

GE
HEL

BETHLEHEM-BETHLEHEM- AN AN
STRASSE STRASSE
STRASSE

STRASSE

S C H Ü T Z E NS C H Ü T Z E N
RIN

RIN

KIRCH- KIRCH- DA DA
PLATZ PLATZ NT NT
MS

NST R ASS E

NST R ASS E
SE

SE

EN EN
-SP

-SP

ST ST
TRA

RA RA
EL

EL

SS SS
E E
ASS

Cold WarCold War

AX

AX

Asisi Asisi
SSE

TRASSE TRASSE
Black BoxBlack Box ZIMMERS ZIMMERS
Panorama
Panorama
Berlin Berlin
E

TRASSE TRASSE Axel-Springer-Haus

Axel-Springer-Haus
ZIMMERS ZIMMERS
SSE
S T R A S S ES T R A S S E
T S C H K E -T S C H K E -
R U D I - D UR U D I - D U

KREUZBERG
KREUZBERG
p178 p178 Kochstrasse
Kochstrasse 0 metres 0 metres 250 N250 N
0 yards 0 yards 250 250
 Did You Know?
The Zeughaus cinema
shows movies from a
wide range of cultures,
genres and eras.

The exhibition hall

extension, designed
by I M Pei

66
 Must See
1"'-=

ZEUGHAUS (DHM)
 V3 ⌂ Unter den Linden 2
 &  Friedrichstrasse  Hackescher Markt
@ 100, 300 # 10am–6pm daily (central building
closed for renovation until 2025) ∑ dhm.de

Housed in the oldest building on Unter

den Linden, this museum explores the
history of Germany through a fascinating
collection of art, militaria and crafts.

This former arsenal (Zeughaus) was built in the Baroque style

in 1706. It is a magnificent structure; its wings surround an
inner courtyard and the exterior is decorated with Schlüter’s
sculptures. Since 1952 it has housed the Deutsches Historisches
Museum (German History Museum), which has a permanent
exhibition that contains over one million objects about German
history. In 2003, a strikingly curvaceous, glass-walled exhibition
hall was added, designed by Walter Gropius student I M Pei.
Its four different levels are used for temporary exhibitions
about significant historical events.

Gloria Victis, by
Antonin Mercié, is
a moving allegory
inspired by the death
of the artist’s friend
The outstanding Zeughaus building,
one of the best examples of Baroque
GALLERY GUIDE
architecture in Berlin
The ground floor
houses exhibits from
1918 to the present.
The first floor con­
tains collections
dating from early
civilizations and the
Middle Ages right up
to the beginning of
the 20th century.
A subterranean
pathway links
the Zeughaus
to the temporary
shows in the
Portrait of Martin Luther, painted exhibition hall.
by Lucas Cranach the Elder in 1529

67
 EXPERIENCE MORE
both collections are
2 3 once again under the
Maxim Gorki Staatsbibliothek same administration.
Theater
 U3 ⌂ Unter den Linden 8
EXPERIENCE Around Unter den Linden

 V2 ⌂ Am Festungs-  &  Friedrichstrasse

graben 2 § 20 22 11 15 @100, 300 # 9am–9pm 4
 &  Friedrichstrasse Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm
Palais am
@ 100, 300 v M1 Sat ∑ staatsbibliothek-
Festungsgraben
berlin.de
The Maxim Gorki theatre
 V2 ⌂ Am Festungs-
was once a singing school or The nucleus of the State
graben 1 § 618 14 60
Sing-Akademie. Berlin’s oldest Library collection was the
 Friedrichstrasse
concert hall, it was built in library of the Great Elector,
@ 100, 300 v M1
1827 by Carl Theodor Ottmer, Friedrich Wilhelm (p215),
who based his design on founded in 1661, first situated The Festungsgraben Palace
drawings by Karl Friedrich in the Stadtschloss and later is one of the few structures in
Schinkel (p28). This modest moved to the Alte Bibliothek this part of town that retains
Neo­Classical building, with building. Its current home was its original interior décor. Built
its attractive façade designed by Ernst von Ihne as a small Baroque palace
resembling a Greco­Roman and completed in 1914 on in 1753, it owes its present
temple, was well known for the site of the Academy of form to major extension
the excellent acoustic Science and the Academy work, carried out in 1864
qualities of its concert hall. of Fine Arts. This impressive in the style of Karl Friedrich
Many famous composer­ building was severely dam­ Schinkel, by Heinrich Bürde
musicians have performed aged during World War II and Hermann von der Hude.
here, including the violinist and underwent extensive The late Neo­Classical
Niccolò Paganini and pianist restoration. The collection, style of the building is
Franz Liszt. In 1829, Felix of some three million books reminiscent of Schinkel’s later
Mendelssohn­Bartholdy and periodicals, was scattered designs. The interior includes
conducted a performance of during the war. A collection of a magnificent double­height
the St Matthew Passion by priceless music manuscripts marble hall in the
Johann Sebastian Bach here. ended up in the Jagiellonian Neo­Renaissance
It was the first time that the Library in Krakow, Poland. style which was
work had been performed in After the war only part of modelled on
front of an audience since the the collection was returned the White Room
composer’s death in 1750. to the building in Unter den in the former
Following reconstruction after Linden, and the rest was
World War II, the building held in West Berlin.
became a theatre. Since reunification,

WILHELM AND
ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT
The Humboldt brothers rank among the
most distinguished Berlin citizens.
Wilhelm (1767–1835) was a lawyer and
politician, occupying various
government posts. It was on his
initiative that the Berlin University
(later renamed Humboldt University)
was founded, and he conducted
studies in comparative and historical
linguistics there. Alexander, shown
right (1769–1859), a professor at the
university, researched natural science,
including meteorology, ocean­
ography and agricultural science.

68
 Neo-Classical façade of explorer (sitting on a globe).
the Neue Wache The entrance gate leads to the

EAT
courtyard, designed by
Reinhold Begas.
Stadtschloss (p96). In 1934 Many famous scholars have
one ground-floor room was worked at the university, Augustiner am
turned into a music salon, and including philosophers Fichte Gendarmenmarkt
many musical instruments and Hegel, physicians Rudolf Hearty German fare
were brought here from the Virchow and Robert Koch, and (knuckle of pork, beef
19th-century house (now physicists Max Planck and goulash) can be found at
demolished) of wealthy Albert Einstein. Among its this Bavarian pub,
merchant and manufacturer graduates are Heinrich Heine, which overlooks the
Johann Weydinger (1773–1837). Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels. Gendarmenmarkt, one
The palace is now used for After World War II, the of Berlin’s most
private events. university was in the Russian beautiful squares.
sector of the divided city and  U4 ⌂ Charlotten­
the difficulties encountered strasse 55 § 204 540 20
by the students of the
5 western zone led to the ¡¡¡
Humboldt Universität establishment of a new
university in 1948 – the Freie
 V3 ⌂ Unter den Linden 6
Universität (p248).
§ 20930  &  Fried­
In the 1930s the building,
richstrasse @ 100, 300
originally a royal guardhouse,
The university building was turned into a monument
was constructed in 1753 for 6 to soldiers killed during World
Prince Heinrich of Prussia, the Neue Wache War I. In 1960, following its
brother of Frederick the Great. restoration, Neue Wache
 V3 ⌂ Unter den Linden
The university was founded became the Memorial to
4  Hackescher Markt
in 1810 on the initiative of the Victims of Fascism and
@ 100, 300 # 10am–
Wilhelm von Humboldt. It Militarism. In 1993 it was
6pm daily
became the Berlin University again rededicated, this time
but was renamed in von This war memorial, designed to the memory of all victims
Humboldt’s honour in 1949. by Karl Friedrich Schinkel and of war and dictatorship.
The overall design of the built in the 1810s, is one of Inside the building is
palace, with its main block the finest examples of Neo- a granite slab over the
and the courtyard enclosed Classical architecture in Berlin. ashes of an unknown soldier,
within a pair of wings, has its façade is dominated by a resistance fighter and a
been extended many times. a huge Doric portico with a concentration camp prisoner.
Two marble statues (1883) frieze of bas-reliefs depicting Under the circular opening in
by Paul Otto stand at the goddesses of victory. On the the roof is a copy of the 20th-
entrance gate and represent triangular tympanum above century sculpture Mother with
Wilhelm von Humboldt the pediment are allegorical her Dead Son, by Berlin artist
(holding a book) and his representations of Battle, Käthe Kollwitz, who lost her
brother Alexander, a famous Victory, Flight and Defeat. own son in World War I.

69
 The modular
design of
the Pierre
Boulez Saal

the centre lane of Unter den

7 Linden. It was designed by 8
Reiterdenkmal Christian Daniel Rauch and Altes Palais
Friedrichs des completed in 1851. It depicts
 V3 ⌂ Unter den Linden 9
Grossen Frederick the Great on
 &  Friedrichstrasse
horseback, wearing a uniform
 V3 ⌂ Unter den Linden @ 100, 300
and a royal cloak. The base of
 &  Friedrichstrasse
the high plinth is surrounded The Neo-Classical Old
@ 100, 300
by statues of famous military Palace, near the former
This equestrian statue of leaders, politicians, scientists Opernplatz (Bebelplatz),
Frederick the Great is one of and artists. The top tier of the was built for the heir to the
the most famous monuments plinth is decorated with bas- throne – Prince Wilhelm (later
in Berlin, featuring a massive relief scenes from the life of Kaiser Wilhelm I). The Kaiser
bronze statue 5.6 m Frederick the Great. Out of lived here all his life. He was
(18.5 ft) in height line with GDR ideology, the able to watch the changing
and standing on monument was moved to of the guards every day
Potsdam, where it stood from the ground-floor
by the Hippodrome in window on the far left.
Park Sanssouci (p250) The palace, built in
until its return in 1980. the 1830s, was designed
by Carl Ferdinand Langhans.
Its splendid furnishings were
destroyed during World
War II but the palace was
subsequently restored and
is now used by Humboldt
Universität (p69).

Frederick the Great astride

his bronze steed

70
 The early Neo-Classical façade of
the State Opera House is one of
the most beautiful sights along
Unter den Linden.

Today, behind the Baroque

10 façade, a modern venue called
Kronprinzenpalais PalaisPopulaire displays the
Deutsche Bank’s art collection.
 V3 ⌂ Unter den Linden 3
The ground-floor café,
 &  Friedrichstrasse
LePopulaire, offers traditional
@ 100, 300
coffee and cake with stunning
The striking, late Neo-Classical view of Berlin’s landmarks.
Crown Prince’s Palace takes
its name from its original
inhabitants – the heirs to
the royal, and later to the 11 '
imperial, throne. Its form is Staatsoper Unter
the outcome of numerous den Linden
changes made to what was
 V3 ⌂ Unter den Linden
originally a modest house
7  &  Friedrichstrasse
dating from 1669. The first
@ 100, 300 # Times vary,
extensions, designed in the
see website ∑ staatsoper-
late Baroque style, were
berlin.de
conducted by Philipp Gerlach
in the 1730s. Between 1856 The early Neo-Classical
9'- and 1857 Johann Heinrich façade of the State Opera
Pierre Boulez Saal Strack added the second floor. House is arguably one of
These extensions were rebuilt the most beautiful sights
 V3 ⌂ Französische
following World War II. along the famous Unter den
Strasse 33D  &
The palace served the royal Linden. It was built by Georg
 Friedrichstrasse
family until the abolition of Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff
 Hausvogteiplatz
the monarchy. Under in 1741–3, but has been rebuilt
@ 100, 147  M1, M12
Communist rule it was and restored several times:
# Times vary, see website
renamed Palais Unter den in the 1840s after a fire, after
∑ boulezsaal.de
Linden and reserved for World War II and after water
This concert hall opened official government guests. It damage in the GDR era. The
in 2017 as part of the was here, on 31 August 1990, latest works, completed in
Barenboim-Said Akademie – that the pact was signed 2017, resulted in magical
an institution formed in paving the way for reunifi- acoustics and much more
continuation of Edward cation to begin. comfortable seats.
Said and Daniel Barenboim’s Next to the palace, at Unter The building is the home
West-Eastern Divan Orchestra den Linden 1, is where the of the Berlin State Opera and
to focus on music education Kommandantur, the official has played host to stellar sing-
in the humanistic tradition quarters of the city’s garrison ers, musicians and artists; one
of the orchestra. American commander, once stood. of its directors and conductors
architect Frank Gehry has Totally destroyed during was Richard Strauss. Audien-
given the Pierre Boulez Saal the last days of World War II, ces can expect Baroque opera
impeccable acoustics and an the original façade was rebuilt as well as new productions.
intimate layout that ensures in 2003 by the giant German
that no audience member is media company Bertelsmann,
more than 14 m (50 ft) from as part of their Berlin
the conductor. The hall hosts
a diverse chamber music
headquarters. Today, the
building is mainly used for
€400,000,000
programme throughout staging large exhibitions. The cost of the
the year, featuring both Joined to the main palace refurbishment
orchestras and soloists, by an overhanging passage- of the Staatsoper:
with regular performances way is the smaller Prinzess- almost double the
from the in-house Boulez innenpalais (Princesses’ original estimate.
Ensemble. There are also Palace), built for the daugh-
concerts for children. ters of Friedrich Wilhelm III.

71
EXPERIENCE Around Unter den Linden

Lime (linden)
trees on Unter
den Linden

The crypt holds the tombs

12 of many bishops of Berlin. 14
St-Hedwigs- It is also the resting place Unter den Linden
Kathedrale of Bernhard Lichtenberg
 U3  &  Brandenburger
(1875–1943), a priest killed
 V3 ⌂ Bebelplatz Tor @ 100, 300
in a concentration camp
 &  Hausvogteiplatz
and beatified as a martyr One of the most famous
@ 100, 300 # 10am–5pm
by Pope John Paul II. streets in Berlin, Unter den
Mon–Wed, Fri & Sat; 11am–
Linden starts at Schlossplatz
5pm Thu; 1–5pm Sun
(p96) and runs down to the
∑ hedwigs-kathedrale.de
Brandenburg Gate (p78)
The massive church of 13 and Pariser Platz. It was
St Hedwig, set back from Alte Bibliothek once the route to the royal
the road and crowned with hunting grounds that were
 V3 ⌂ Bebelplatz 1 § 20
a copper dome, is the Catholic later transformed into the
93 0  &  Friedrichstrasse
Cathedral of the Roman Tiergarten (p170). In the
@ 100, 300
Archdiocese of Berlin. It was 17th century the street was
built to serve the Catholics The Old Library, known by planted with lime trees,
of Silesia (part of present-day locals as the Kommode or to which it owes its name.
Poland), which became part “chest of drawers” after its The current trees were
of the Kingdom of Prussia in curved façade, is one of the planted in the 1950s.
1742 following defeat in the city’s most beautiful Baroque During the 18th century,
Silesian Wars of 1740–63. buildings. It was designed by Unter den Linden became the
The initial design, put Georg Christian Unger and built main street of the westward-
together by Georg Wenzeslaus around 1775 to house the royal growing city. It was gradually
von Knobelsdorff, was similar library collection. Unger based filled with prestigious
to the Roman Pantheon. his design on an unrealized buildings, many of which were
Construction began in 1747 plan for an extension to the restored after World War II.
and the cathedral was con- Hofburg complex in Vienna by Today it also has several cafés
secrated in 1773, although Josef Emanuel Fischer von and restaurants, as well as
work continued on and off Erlach some 50 years earlier. many smart shops. This street
until 1778. Its design was The concave façade of the is also the venue for many
modified repeatedly. Later, building is accentuated by interesting outdoor events;
additional work was carried the insertion of three breaks, it is usually crowded with
out from 1886 to 1887. surrounded at the top by a tourists and students
The cathedral was badly row of massive Corinthian browsing the bookstalls
damaged during World pilasters. The building now around the Humboldt
War II, and rebuilt between houses the law faculty of Universität (p69) and the
1952 and 1963. Humboldt University. Staatsbibliothek.

72
 square. It was built for the and highly skilled, they played
French Huguenot commu­ a crucial part in Berlin’s rise
nity, who found refuge in as a city of science, craft
Did You Know? Protestant Berlin following and commerce. The French
their expulsion from France language they brought with
Many of the trees on Unter
after the revocation of the them survives to this day
den Linden were chopped
Edict of Nantes. The main in many words used in the
down for firewood
building of the church, Berlin dialect.
during World War II.
completed in 1705, was
modelled on the Huguenot
church in Charenton, France,
which was destroyed in u"-=
1688. The entrance, on Akademie der Künste
15 the west elevation (facing
 T3 ⌂ Pariser Platz 4
Komische Oper Charlottenstrasse), leads to
 &   Brandenburger Tor
an uncomplicated interior
 U3 ⌂ Behrenstrasse @ 100, 300 # 10am–10pm
with a rectangular nave and
55/57  &  Brandenburger daily ∑ adk.de
semicircular sections on
Tor  Unter den Linden
both sides. It features a late The modern glass and steel
@ 100, 147, 300
Baroque organ from 1754. façade of the Academy of Arts
∑ komische-oper-berlin.de
The structure is dominated belies its historic and noble
Looking at the modern façade by a massive, cylindrical origins. Founded in 1696 by
of the Comic Opera theatre, it tower which is encircled by Prussian King Frederick I,
is hard to believe that it hides Corinthian porticoes at its it was one of Europe’s first
one of Berlin’s most impress­ base. It was added around such institutions. Today its
ive interiors. Built in 1892, it 1785, some 80 years after the primary role is advising and
has served as a variety theatre church was built. It houses supporting the German
and as the German National the Huguenot Museum, which government in affairs of art
Theatre, and has only housed details the history of the and culture. It also houses a
the Komische Oper since Huguenots in France and prestigious archive and hosts
World War II. The postwar Brandenburg. Well­educated contemporary art exhibitions.
reconstruction deprived the
building of its former façades
but the beautiful Viennese
Neo­Baroque interior Main entrance of
remained, full of stuccoes and the Französischer
gilded ornaments. Particularly Dom, built for
interesting are the expressive, the dispossessed
dynamically posed statues French Huguenots
on the pilasters of the top
balcony – the work of Theodor
Friedel. The Komische Oper is
one of Berlin’s three leading
opera companies, presenting
extravagant and contemporary
renditions musicals, operas
and operettas.

16 "
Französischer Dom
 V4 ⌂ Gendarmenmarkt 6
 Stadtmitte, Französische
Strasse # Opening times
vary, see website for
details ∑ franzoesischer-
dom.de

The French Cathedral stands

facing its German counter­
part, the Deutscher Dom (p75),
across the Gendarmenmarkt
 It was sculpted by Reinhold occupying a charming
i Begas, and erected in 1869. building designed by Jean
Konzerthaus Removed by the Nazis during Nouvel and constructed
the 1930s, the monument was almost entirely of glass. The
 V4 ⌂ Gendarmen
finally returned to its rightful building’s axis is formed by
markt 2  Stadtmitte,
place in 1988. Schiller’s head an inner courtyard, which is
Hausvogteiplatz
was copied by the sculptor defined by two glass cones
∑ konzerthaus.de
from a bust of the poet with their bases facing each
A late Neo-Classical jewel, created in 1794 by Johann other. The highly reflective
EXPERIENCE Around Unter den Linden

the magnificent Concert Hall, Heinrich Dannecker. The glass panes, together with
formerly known as the statue is mounted on a high the multicoloured stands
Schauspielhaus, is one of the pedestal surrounded by that are clustered around
greatest achievements of allegorical figures repre- the structure, make an
Berlin’s best-known architect, senting Lyric Poetry, Drama, extraordinary impression
Karl Friedrich Schinkel (p28). Philosophy and History. on the visitor.
It was built between 1818 The next passage, Quartier
and 1821 around the ruins 206, has offices and smart
of Carl Gotthard Langhans’ luxury boutiques, and is the
National Theatre, which was o work of the American design
destroyed by fire in 1817. Friedrichstadt- team Pei Cobb Freed &
The original portico columns passagen Partners. The building owes
were retained. Schinkel its alluring, but somewhat
 U4 ⌂ Friedrichstrasse
was responsible for the nouveau-riche, appearance to
Quartier 205, 206, 207
architectural structure and for the use of forms inspired by
 Stadtmitte,
the interior design, down to Art Deco architecture, includ-
Hausvogteiplatz
the door handles. Following ing sophisticated details and
bomb damage in World War II, This group of passages is expensive stone cladding.
it was reconstructed as a part of a huge development The southernmost
concert hall with a different of luxury shops, offices, building in the complex,
interior layout. The exterior restaurants and apartments and the largest passage, is
was restored to its former built along Friedrichstrasse. Quartier 205 – now called
glory. The Konzerthaus is Quartier 207 is the famous “The Q” – another complex
home to the Konzerthaus- Galeries Lafayette, a branch of of shops, designed by Oswald
orchester (formerly the Berlin the French department store Mathias Ungers.
Symphony Orchestra).
The theatre façade includes
a huge Ionic portico with a set
of stairs that was only used by
the middle classes (the upper
classes entered via a separate
entrance where they could
leave their horse-drawn
carriages). The whole building
is richly decorated with
sculptures alluding to drama
and music: statues of musical
geniuses mounted on lions
and panthers, as well as
figures representing the
Muses and a Bacchanal
procession. The façade is
crowned with the sculpture of
Apollo riding a chariot pulled
by griffins.
In front of the theatre
stands a shining white marble
statue of the poet and phil-
osopher Friedrich Schiller.

Quartier 206 in the

Friedrichstadtpassagen

74
 The Deutscher
Dom, overlooking
the expansive
Gendarmenmarkt

identical to that of the French

p Cathedral across the square.
Gendarmenmarkt Burned down in 1945, the

SHOP
church was finally rebuilt in
 V4  Stadtmitte,
1993. Its exterior was pain­
Hausvogteiplatz
stakingly reconstructed,
This is one of Berlin’s most including its sculpted Galeries Lafayette
beautiful squares, created decorations. The interior is This sleek Parisian
at the end of the 17th century now modern and hosts an import sells an array
as a marketplace for the newly exhibition, “Wege, Irrwege, of French and
established Friedrichstadt. Umwege” (“Paths, Confusions, international brands in
It is named after the Regiment Detours”), about Germany’s its many departments,
Gens d’Armes, who stabled parliamentary democracy. ranging from beauty
their horses here. Two products to clothing and
cathedrals with magnificent gourmet delicacies.
towers, the Deutscher Dom
and the Französischer Dom s"  U4 ⌂ Französische
Strasse 23
(p73), stand on each side Cold War Black Box
# 10am–8pm Mon–Sat
with the Konzerthaus (p74)
 U5 ⌂ Friedrichstrasse 47 ∑ galerieslafayette.de
in the middle.
 Stadtmitte, Kochstrasse
@ M29 # 10am–6pm daily Quartier 206 Art &
∑ bfgg.de Fashion House
a' Located directly across from Next door to Galeries
Deutscher Dom the Haus am Checkpoint Lafayette is this Art
Charlie (p191), the Cold War Deco complex with even
 V4 ⌂ Gendarmenmarkt 1 more fashion stores.
Black Box provides a quieter,
 Stadtmitte, Französische
more measured look at the  U4 ⌂ Friedrichs­
Strasse § 22 73 04 31 trasse 71 # 10:30am–
Cold War years. Throughout
# May–Sep: 10am–7pm 7:30pm Mon–Sat
its intimate, black­walled
Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am– ∑ q206berlin.de
space, it tackles big­hitter
6pm Tue–Sun
topics such as nuclear war
The German Cathedral at the and espionage, as well as
southern end of Gendarmen­ peace and democracy.
markt, to the left of the The exhibition comprises
Konzerthaus, is an old German around 500 items, including for reconnaissance missions.
Protestant­Reformed church GDR­era grenades once used There are also several media
built in 1708 by Giovanni for practice by school children, stations with film excerpts,
Simonetti. The design was a Geiger counter used to interviews, photos, and explo­
based on a five­petal shape, detect and measure radioac­ rations of international con­
and in 1785 it acquired tivity in the air, and a Soviet nections with the Korean War
a dome­covered tower photo gun, which was used and the Cuban missile crisis.

75
EXPERIENCE Around Unter den Linden

departments had offices In the spring of 1945 the square

d from the mid-19th century was the scene of such fierce
Ehemaliges until 1945. The building at fighting that after World War II
Regierungsviertel Voss Strasse No. 77 was once most of the damaged buildings
the Reich’s Chancellery and had to be torn down. Among
 T5 ⌂ Wilhelmstrasse,
Otto von Bismarck’s office, those that survived are the
Leipziger Strasse, Voss
and from 1933 it served as former Prussian Landtag
Strasse  Potsdamer
the office of Adolf Hitler. It offices – the huge complex
Platz, Anton-Wilhelm-
was from here that Hitler, occupying the site between
Amo-Strasse
his senior staff and his mis- Leipziger and Niederkirchner
The name means “former tress Eva Braun withdrew Strasse. This building, designed
government district”, because to the Führerbunker, an in the Italian Renaissance style,
Wilhelmstrasse, and the area elaborate underground was designed by Friedrich
situated to the west of it up complex that served as Schulze, and constructed
to Leipziger Platz (p165), was both command centre between 1892 and 1904. It
where the main government and residence. consists of two segments: the
section on the side of Leipziger
Strasse (No. 3–4) once housed
FÜHRERBUNKER the upper chamber of the
The specific location of National Assembly (the
Hitler’s bunker was kept a Herrenhaus) and is now used
secret for many decades by the Bundesrat. The building
to deter neo-Nazi pilgrims. on the side of Niederkirchner
Destroyed and flooded Strasse (No. 5) is the former
after World War II, the seat of the Landtag’s lower
area now hosts an aptly chamber, and is now the
unimpressive car parking Berliner Abgeordnetenhaus
area and a huddle of GDR- (House of Representatives).
era residential buildings. An The other surviving complex
information board installed by the nonprofit Berliner is the former Ministry of
Unterwelten group (which runs fascinating tours Aviation, at Leipziger Strasse
of other bunkers and subterranean historic sites No. 5, built for Hermann Göring
throughout the city) shows the layout of the structure. in 1936 by Ernst Sagebiel. This
building is typical of the archi-
tecture of the Third Reich.

76
 A small corner

STAY
of the massive
Holocaust Denkmal

an information centre Clipper City Home

underneath the memorial The 59 smart
that displays the names apartments offered
of around 3 million Jewish here range from
Holocaust victims. There are compact studios to
also memorials in the nearby deluxe options. All
Tiergarten to commemorate feature kitchens with
LGBT+, Sinti and Roma people Nespresso machines
murdered during World War II. and microwaves,
refrigerators, desks,
designer bathrooms
and free Wi-Fi.
g"  U3 ⌂ Behren­
Asisi Panorama Berlin strasse 47 ∑ clipper­
boardinghouses.de
 U5 ⌂ Friedrichstrasse
205  &  Potsdamer Platz ¡¡¡
 Stadtmitte, Kochstrasse
@ M48, M29 # 10am–6pm Hotel Adlon
daily ∑ asisi.de This glamorous
Turkish­German artist Yadegar hotel has a stellar
Asisi paints enormous, highly guest list of historic
detailed panoramas known personalities, from
24 for their sense of realism. His Greta Garbo to Barack
Holocaust Denkmal Berlin panorama is 15 m (49 ft) Obama. It remains one
high, 60 m (196 ft) wide and set of the best addresses
 S/T4 ⌂ Ebertstrasse in town thanks to
inside a large cylindrical struc­
§ 28 04 59 60  &  Bran­ sumptuous rooms,
ture next to Checkpoint Charlie.
denburger Tor @ 100, 300 several high-end
It depicts a fictional day along
# Apr–Sep: 10am–8pm Tue– restaurants and a vast,
a stretch of the Berlin Wall
Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am–7pm two-storey spa.
in the 1980s. On one side is
Tue–Sun ¢ Mon
Kreuzberg, complete with  T3 ⌂ Unter den
Designed by American punks, run­down buildings and Linden 77 ∑ hoteladlon.
architect Peter Eisenman and daily West Berlin life; on the grandluxuryhotels.com
engineer Buro Happold, other side, an eerily quiet Mitte, ¡¡¡
Germany’s national Holocaust all border fortifications, no
memorial is a striking sprawl people and the TV tower loom­
of concrete that symbolizes ing in the distance. With a
the six million Jews and others soundtrack by film composer
murdered by the Nazis in con­ Eric Babak, the experience is Museum of Communication
centration camps between absorbing and moving. is the oldest establishment
1933 and 1945. of its kind in the entire
Finished in 2005, it world. Soon after it was
consists of a 19,000­sq­m founded, it moved into
(200,000­sq­ft) site containing 26 " the corner of the huge
2,711 concrete slabs or “stelae” Museum für building constructed for
of varying heights, arranged Kommunikation the main post office. The
in an austere grid pattern on office wings, with their
 U5 ⌂ Leipziger Strasse
a sloping field. The abstract modest Neo­Renaissance
16  Stadtmitte, Anton­
installation is intended to elevations, contrast with
Wilhelm­Amo­Strasse
disorientate, and leaves room the grand Neo­Baroque
@ 200, 265, M48 # 9am–
for interpretation. For this façade. Exhibits featured
8pm Tue, 9am–5pm Wed–
reason, the memorial has faced here illustrate the history
Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun
criticism for the lack of infor­ of postal and telecom­
∑ mfk­berlin.de
mation it offers on the horrific munication services,
events it sets out to com­ Founded in 1872 as the including contemporary
memorate. There is however Post Office Museum, the digital media.

77
 birth of the Third Reich and
Hitler’s ascent to power. It was
here, too, that the Russian flag
was raised in May 1945, and
on 17 June 1953 that 25
workers demonstrating for
better conditions were killed.
The gate, in East Berlin, was
restored during 1956–8, after
EXPERIENCE Around Unter den Linden

it suffered extensive damage

in World War II. Until 1989 it
stood watch over the divided
city. It was restored again
between 2000 and 2002.

The Neo-Classical Russische Botschaft, 29

built to impress in war-ravaged 1950s Berlin Russische Botschaft
 T3 ⌂ Unter den Linden
63/65  &  Branden­
27 28 burger Tor @ 100, 245
Admiralspalast Brandenburger Tor The monumental white
Russian Embassy building is
 U2 ⌂ Friedrichstrasse  S3 ⌂ Pariser Platz
an example of the Stalinist
101–102 § 25 50 70 00  &   Brandenburger Tor
“wedding-cake” style, or
 &  Friedrichstrasse @ 100, 245
Zuckerbäckerstil. Completed in
The Admiralspalast, built The Brandenburg Gate is the 1953, it was the first postwar
in 1911, was one of the quintessential symbol of building erected on Unter den
Roaring Twenties’ premier Berlin. This magnificent Neo- Linden. It is built on the site of
entertainment complexes in Classical structure, completed a former palace that had
Berlin, and one of the many in 1795, was designed by Carl
variety and vaudeville Gotthard Langhans and
theatres that once lined modelled on the entrance to Brandenburger
Friedrichstrasse. Originally the Acropolis in Athens. A pair Tor dominating
designed as an indoor of pavilions, once used by Pariser Platz
swimming pool above a guards and customs officers,
natural hot spring, it was frames its powerful Doric
later transformed into an ice- colonnade. The bas-reliefs
skating rink and, after heavy depict scenes from Greek
damage in World War II, an mythology, and the whole
Operettentheater that staged structure is crowned by the
light musical entertainment. Quadriga sculpture designed
In 2006, following restor- by Johann Gottfried Schadow.
ation work, the theatre The goddess of victory with
reopened with a much- her four-horsed chariot was
discussed production of originally regarded as a
Bertolt Brecht’s Die symbol of peace. In 1806,
Dreigroschenoper (The Three­ during the French occupation,
penny Opera), and now once the Quadriga was dismantled
again serves as a vibrant on Napoleon’s orders and
entertainment complex, taken to Paris. On its return in
with a large stage, a café 1814, it was declared a symbol
and a nightclub. Designed of victory, and the goddess
by Heinrich Schweitzer, the received the staff bearing the
beautifully restored façade Prussian eagle and the iron
is punctuated by Doric half- cross adorned with a laurel
columns and inlaid with slabs wreath. The Brandenburg
of Istrian marble. The façade Gate has borne witness to
on Planckstrasse, designed many of Berlin’s important
by Ernst Westphal, features events, from military parades
exotic overlapping motifs. to celebrations marking the

78
housed the Russian (originally
Tsarist) embassy from 1837. 31

10,000
The work of Russian Pariser Platz
architect Anatoli Strischewski,
 T3  &   Brandenburger
this structure, with its
The number of children Tor @ 100, 245
strictly symmetrical layout,
resembles the old Berlin evacuated to London This square, at the end of
palaces of the Neo-Classical from Bahnhof Unter den Linden, was created
period. The sculptures that Friedrichstrasse in 1734. Originally called
adorn it, however, belong to in 1939. Quarré, it was renamed
an altogether different era: Pariser Platz after 1814, when
the gods of ancient Greece the Quadriga sculpture from
and Rome have been replaced In 1925 a roof was added, the Brandenburg Gate was
by working-class heroes. covering the hall and the returned to Berlin from Paris.
platforms. The original The square, enclosed on the
labyrinth of passages, west by the Brandenburg
staircases and checkpoints no Gate, saw most of its buildings
30 longer exists but it is possible destroyed in 1945. Following
Bahnhof to see a model of the station reunification, the square was
Friedrichstrasse at the Stasi-Museum (p231). redeveloped, and twin houses
Now a museum itself, the designed by Josef Paul
 U2 ⌂ Reichstagufer 17
only remaining structure Kleihues now flank the Bran-
# 9am–7pm Tue–Fri, 10am–
from the original station is the denburg Gate. On the north
6pm Sat & Sun ∑ hdg.de
special pavilion once used as side of the square are the
One of the city’s most famous a waiting room by those wait- Dresdner Bank building and
urban railway stations, ing for emigration clearance. the French Embassy. On the
Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse It earned the nickname Trän- south are the US Embassy,
used to be the border station enpalast, the “Palace of Tears”, the DZ Bank head office and
between East and West Berlin as it is here that Berliners the Academy of Fine Arts
during the Cold War years. from different sides of the (p73). To the east is the rebuilt
It was built in 1882 to a city would say goodbye to Hotel Adlon (p77), a legend in
design by Johannes Vollmer. each other after a visit. Berlin hospitality.
 A SHORT WALK
AROUND BEBELPLATZ
Distance 1.5 km (1.1 mile) Nearest tram
station Georgenstr./Am Kupfergraben
Time 15 minutes
EXPERIENCE Around Unter den Linden

The impressive
Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs
The section of Unter den Linden between des Grossen (Equestrian
Schlossbrücke and Friedrichstrasse is the statue of Frederick the
perfect place for a walk to get an introduction Great) dates from
to the city. There are some magnificent Baroque 1851 (p70).
and Neo-Classical buildings, many of which
were designed by famous architects, as well Humboldt Universität’s
as several restored palaces that are now used courtyard entrance is framed by
as public buildings. Of particular interest is the two guardroom pavilions and
beautiful Baroque Zeughaus (the former Arsenal), crowned with the allegorical
which now houses the Deutsches Historisches figures of Dawn and Dusk (p69).
Museum (German History Museum).

The Neo-Baroque
Staatsbibliothek (State Library)

UN
building was designed by Ernst
von Ihne and completed in 1914.

IV
It houses a collection that dates

ER
from the 17th century (p68).

SI
TÄ
TS
CH

ST
AR
LO

RA
TT

SS
EN

E
ST
RA
SS
E

EN
ND
LI
N
DE
R
TE
UN

I M Pei’s modern
exhibition hall at
SE
Zeughaus (DHM) A sleek and stylish exhibition AS
space shows off the brands R
ST
of the Volkswagen Group. N
RE
There’s also a shop and H
several dining options. BE

The Neo-Classical Altes Palais (Old

Palace) was built between 1834 and 1837
for the future Kaiser Wilhelm I. It was
reconstructed after World War II (p70).

80
 Since 1993, the
Neue Wache (New
Guard) monument A glass wing designed by I M Pei
has served as a sits adjacent to the beautiful
AROUND
memorial to all Baroque building of Zeughaus UNTER DEN
victims of war and LINDEN
(DHM), the German Historical
dictatorship (p69). Museum. The Zeughaus pediment
shows the Roman goddess of
wisdom (p66) .

Locator Map
For more detail see p64

The magnificent avenue of Unter den

Linden was replanted with four rows
of lime trees in 1946 (p72).

The rear elevation of

Kronprinzenpalais (Crown Prince’s
Palace) features a magnificent
portal from the dismantled
Bauakademie building (p71).

START

EN
ND
LI
N
DE
R
TE
UN

Interior of the
Friedrichswerdersche Kirche
HI
NT
ER
DE
BE

R
KA
BE

FINISH
TH
LP
LA

, K

The Neo-Gothic
TZ

RCI

Friedrichswerdersche Kirche
HE

was designed by Karl Friedrich

Schinkel, the architect of so
many of Berlin’s notable
19th-century buildings.

The Staatsoper (State Opera

House) on Unter den Linden is
Germany’s oldest theatre building
not attached to a palace
residence (p71).

Designed in the 18th

century as the Forum 19th-century bas-reliefs by
The west side of Bebelplatz Fridericianum, Bebelplatz Theodor Wilhelm Achtermann
features a Baroque library – square was renamed in 1947 adorn the supports of St-Hedwigs-
the Alte Bibliothek – with an in honour of social activist Kathedrale (p72).
unusual concave façade, August Bebel. The Nazis
0 metres 100 N
which locals have nicknamed burned books here in 1933.
the “chest of drawers” (p72). 0 yards 100

81
Fountain at the entrance of the Alte Nationalgalerie

MUSEUMSINSEL
The long island nestled in the tributaries of the
Spree river is the cradle of Berlin’s history. It was
here that the settlement of Cölln was established
at the beginning of the 13th century, which grew
up together with its twin settlement of Berlin on
the opposite bank of the Spree.
Not a trace of Gothic and Renaissance Cölln is
left now: the island’s character was transformed
by the construction of the Brandenburg Electors’
palace, which served as their residence from
1470. Over the following centuries, the palace
was converted first into a royal home and later
into an imperial palace – the huge Stadtschloss.
Although the palace was razed to the ground in
1950, several buildings on the island’s north side
have survived, including the huge Berliner Dom
and the impressive collection of museums that
give the island its name – Museumsinsel.

83
 O R A N I E NOBRUARNGIEERN BS U R G E R S
TR. TR.
RASSE N ST RAS
EN ST E
CKS CKS
D IR D IR
HAC KES C HER
HAC KES C HER
NORTH
NORTH
MITTEMITTE
AND AND M AR KT M AR KT
PRENZLAUER
PRENZLAUER
BERG BERG
p118 p118
Ebert- Ebert-
brücke brücke
Monbijou- Monbijou- Hackescher
Hackescher
R. R.
brücke brücke James-Simon-
James-Simon- Markt Markt ST ST
H- H-

B UR G S

B UR G S
Park Park C C
Bode- Bode- RS RS
KA KA
Museum Museum Spr Spr A- A-
GESCHWISTE

GESCHWISTE

ee ee IS IS
AM

AM

TR .

TR .
OU OU
KU

KU

L L
A- A-
PF

PF

N N
ER

ER

AN AN
GR

GR
AB

AB

Pergamon- Alte Alte

R-SCHOLL-S

R-SCHOLL-S

Pergamon-

SP ST

SP T
EN

EN

museum museum Nationalgalerie

Nationalgalerie S

AN RA

AN RA
S
DA S S E

DA S S E
T-

UE

UE
TR.

TR.

Neues Neues H H

R
Friedrichbrücke
Friedrichbrücke
EC EC
MU

MU
Museum Museum N M
E SE
STRASSE STRASSE SS AS N
SE

SE
A K K
G E O R G E N -G E O R G E N - R R
UM

UM
James-Simon-
James-Simon- E ST E ST EB EB
ST

ST
Galerie Galerie
D
BO BO
D DDR DDR L I LI
R.

R.
Museum MuseumL - L-
HEGEL- HEGEL-

AM

AM
PLATZ PLATZ Altes Altes R R
Museum Museum Berliner Berliner A A

LU

LU
Dom Dom K K

ST

ST
ENSTR. ENSTR. Eiserne Eiserne
D O R O T H ED O R O T H E

GA

GA
Brücke Brücke

RT

RT

SP
EN

EN

AN
AM

AM

Lustgarten
Lustgarten ALEXANDER-
ALEXANDER
UN IVE RSI TÄT

UN IVE RSI TÄT

ZEU

ZEU

PLATZPLATZ
MUSEUMS-
MUSEUMS-
GHA

GHA

Humboldt
Humboldt Zeughaus
Zeughaus p102 p102
Staats- Staats-Universität
Universität (DHM) (DHM) Schloss- Schloss- INSEL INSEL
US

US

bibliothek
bibliothek
SST R.

SST R.

brücke brücke .
Museumsinsel
Museumsinsel TR
Schloss- Schloss- SS S
EN LIN DEN
EN LINDEN platz platz AU AU
U N T E RU NDT E R D
H TH
Rathaus- Rathaus-
R AT RA
brücke brücke
Humboldt
Humboldt
Forum Forum
Staatsoper
Staatsoper (2021) (2021)

SP

SP
UDL UDL

RE

RE
NIEDE

NIEDE

Altes Altes
BEBEL- BEBEL-

EU

EU
Z Z
Palais Palais
PLATZ PLATZ AT AT
Marstall Marstall

FE

FE
PL PL

R
SS SS
RLAG S

RLAG S

O O
Schleusen- Schleusen- HL HL
brücke brücke S C SC
Ribbeckhaus
Ribbeckhaus
BR

BR
RASSE RASSE
TR.

TR.

B E H R E N SBT E H R E N S T
EI

EI

ER ER
TE

TE

SCH SCH
DER T DER T
ST

ST

W E R M A R KW E R M A R K Staatsrats-
Staatsrats-
RA

RA

- -
gebäude gebäude NS NS
SS

SS

STRA S S SET R A S S E AN E AN E
E

ISCHE ISCHE
F R A N Z ÖFSR A N Z Ö S
M SS M SS
Spr

Spr

U A U A
NE G NE G
AROUND
AROUND
UNTERUNTER - -
eek

eek

GS GS
IN IN
RL SSE RL SSE
Französischer
Französischer DEN LINDEN
DEN LINDEN E
SP GA
E
SP GGalgenhaus Galgenhaus
an

an

E E A
Dom Dom J Ä G E R S T R AJ SÄ SG E R S T R A S S p62 p62
al

al

BR

BR
ÜD

ÜD

E E
SS SS
ER

ER
FR

FR

GENDARMEN-
GENDARMEN-
Nicolai- Nicolai- A A
ST

ST
IED

IED

MARKT MARKT R R
ST ST
R.

R.

haus haus
OB

OB S G
R

RI

FI

N N
ICH

E E
ER

ER R A

CH

SC

Konzerthaus
Konzerthaus E N S T R . Hausvogteiplatz
Hausvogteiplatz R
R
R
R
WA

WA C H

R.
SG

TA U B TA U B E N ST H
A
H
A
SS

SS T

RA

SC SC
ER

CH

KU KU
RS
ST

RS RS
TR
RA

Deutscher
Deutscher
Dom Dom TR TR
AS

AS AS
SS

SE

R.

R.

NI NI SE SE
E

ED ED
ST

ST

SS E E
M O - S T R AM O-STRASS ER ER Gertrauden-Gertrauden-
I L H E L M - AI L H E L M - A
EN

EN

A N T O N - WA N T O N - W W W brücke brücke
AL AL
JERUSALE

JERUSALE

UD

UD
MA RK GR AF

MA RK GR AF

LS LS
TR TR
RA

RA

AS AS Neue Gertrauden-
Neue Gertrauden-
SE SE
RT

RT

brücke brücke
GE

GE

RASSE RASSE Grünstassen-Grünstasse

MER STR.

MER STR.

K R O N E N S TK R O N E N S T brücke brüc
EN ST R.

EN ST R.

SPITTEL- SPITTEL-
MARKT MARKTWA LLS TRAWA LLS TRA SSE SSE W

R S T RR A S SS ET R A S S E
L E I P Z I LGEEI P Z I G E Spittelmarkt
Spittelmarkt
SE

SE

EL EL
YD

YD

MA R I S A B MA R I S A B
A-S ET A E
EL

EL

S TR RA AUSSSEEN S T R A S S E T R A H - - S T R AT H -
KRAUSENK
ST

ST

SSE SSE
BE

BE

RA

RA

MUSEUMS-
MUSEUMS-
E
SS
UT

UT

SS

SS

INSEL INSEL
RA

RA
E

E
HS

HS

ST

ST
E

TR

TR
SS

SS

KO KO
ÜN

ÜN
AS

AS

MM MM
SSE SSE
GR

GR

ENSTRA ENSTRA
RA

RA

AN AN
SCHÜTZ SCHÜTZ
SE

SE

DA DA
A
UE

UE
ST

ST

NT NT
EN EN
NE

NE
R-

R-

ST ST
RA RA
GE

GE

SS SS
E E
KREUZBERG
KREUZBERG
IN

IN
PR

PR

p178 p178
-S

-S
EL

EL
AX

AX
 M Ü N Z S T RMAÜ N Z S T R A S SE
S SE

SSE
MUSEUMSINSEL
Must Sees
1 Neues Museum
. 2 Berliner Dom
AL E X AN DEAL
R-E X AN DE R- 3 Pergamonmuseum
PL ATZ PL ATZ
Bahnhof Bahnhof
Alexanderplatz
Alexanderplatz Experience More
E SE
S 4 Bode-Museum
AS A S Fernsehturm
Alexanderplatz
Alexanderplatz
Fernsehturm
R R
ST ST 5 Schlossbrücke
6 Alte Nationalgalerie
T-
H 7 Altes Museum
Marienkirche
Marienkirche
E E
8 Lustgarten
SS SS
T RA T RA 9 Schlossplatz
SS SS
AU AU
TH TH 0 Marstall
RA RA
Rotes Rotes q Nicolaihaus
Rathaus Rathaus
SP

w Staatsratsgebäude
SE SE
AN

R-
JÜ

JÜ
N

e Galgenhaus
DE

DE
D

AS

AS
AU

AU

NS

NS

r Ribbeckhaus
TR

TR

Rotes Rotes
ER

ER

KL

KL
ST

ST
AS

AS

Rathaus Rathaus
OS

OS
SE

SE

t Märkisches Museum
ER

ER
TE

TE
R ST

R ST
UN

UN

R. y Ermeler-Haus
ST

ST

T
RAS

RAS

SS
GR

GR
RA

RA

u Historischer Hafen Berlin

SE

SE
SS

SS

JÜD

JÜD
E

Nikolaikirche
NikolaikircheMOLKEN- i Märkisches Ufer
E N ST

E N ST

MOLKEN-
MARKT MARKT
R A SS E

R A SS E

Knoblauchhaus
Knoblauchhaus

STR S
ALA TRALA
M

UER UE
AM

AM

Palais Palais STR R STR

ASS E ASS E
ND

ND

SchwerinSchwerin
LE

LE

Jannowitzbrücke
JannowitzbrückeH HO
OL
ÜH

ÜH

ZM LZ
AR MA
Mühlendamm-
Mühlendamm- RK
M

ER
R O L A N D URF O LANDUFE
R KT
brücke brücke ST TS
Mühlendamm-
Mühlendamm- RA TR
SS AS
Schleuse Schleuse E SE
Jannowitz- Jannowitz-
Historischer
Historischer brücke brücke
M Ä R K I S C HMEÄS R K I S C H E S
Hafen Berlin
Hafen Berlin UF UF
ER ER
A M K ÖL L N IS

A M K ÖL L N IS

Sp Sp
Märkisches
Märkisches re re
FISCHER-
FISCHER- Museum Museum e e
FI
SC

Insel- Insel-
INSEL INSEL brücke
CH

Märkisches
Märkisches
H

brücke
C HE

C HE
ER

ER

Ufer Ufer
IN

IN

N PA R K

N PA R K

SE

SE

ER ER
UF UF
SE

SE

ES ES
RAS

RAS
L

H H
ISC ISC R U N G E S T RR U N G E S T R
RK R K
Ermeler-Haus
Ermeler-Haus ASSE ASSE
MÄ MÄ
IN

IN

NST

T
G A S SE R -

G A S SE R -
SE

SE

SE K E N S

Rossstrassen-
Rossstrassen- LS LS
E

E
S

brücke brücke TR TR
WA S

WA S

CKE

MärkischesMärkisches AS AS
Museum Museum SE SE
C
BRÜ

TRB R Ü

SE

SE SE
NE

NE

en-
AS S
AS

AS

cke TR RA
UE

UE

LS ST
TR

AL LL
WA SE Heinrich-Heine
SE Heinrich-Heine
MS

MS
RO

RO

AS AS Strasse Strasse
TR TR
OH

OH
SS

SS

O BS O BS
ST

ST

J AK J AK KÖ KÖ
UE UE
R.

R.

PE PE
NE NE NI NI
SE

SE

CK CK
ER ER
AS

AS

ST ST
RA RA
SE SE SS SS
TR

TR

E E
S

-S

-S
A

A
R

R
E

NE

NE
ST

ST
SS

EI

EI
O

O
K

K
JA

JA

-H

-H
CH

CH

A A
E

N N
LT

LT

N N
SE

SE

RI

RI
A

Luisenstädtischer
Luisenstädtischer EN EN
BA

BA

IN

IN

Kirchpark Kirchpark ST ST
ST

ST

R R
HE

HE
IA

IA

AS AS
0 metres 0 metres 250 N 250 N
NS

NS

SE SE
TR

TR
AS

AS

0 yards 0 yards 250 250

SE

SE
 1"'-=

NEUES MUSEUM
 V2 ⌂ Bodestrasse 1–3  Hackescher Markt, Friedrichstrasse
 Museumsinsel @ 100, 300 v 12, M1, M4, M5 # 10am–6pm daily
(to 8pm Thu) ∑ smb.museum
EXPERIENCE Museumsinsel

This museum is home to an unparalleled collection of Berlin’s archaeological

treasures from around the world. Through its exhibits, visitors can explore
human history and culture from prehistoric times to the Middle Ages.

The New Museum was built in the mid-19th

century to relieve the overcrowded Altes
Museum. In 1945 the building was badly
damaged, but the reconstruction effort under
British architect David Chipperfield – a skillful
blend of conservation, restoration and crea-
tion of new spaces – was highly successful,
and history remains palpable in every room.
The two main collections are the Egyptian
Museum and Papyrus Collection and the
Museum for Pre-history and Early History. The
former showcases four millennia of ancient
Egyptian and Nubian cultures, while the latter
focuses on Europe and parts of Asia. Special
themes and items include 19th-century wall The museum building, designed
paintings of Nordic mythological scenes, by Friedrich August Stüler
Heinrich Schliemann’s collection of artifacts
from Troy, the Neanderthal from Le Moustier,
the Berlin Gold Hat and a bust of Nefertiti.

The bust of
Nefertiti is made
of stucco-coated
limestone
The museum’s architecture and décor
were designed to complement the exhibits

c 1184 BC c 100–50 BC
The "Treasure of ▼
Very little is known
Priam" artifacts about the beautifully
are said to have crafted Egyptian bust
belonged to a king known as the Berlin
of ancient Troy. Green Head.
Highlights

c 1345 BC c 200 AD
▲ This bust may ▲ Bronze bracelet

have served originally attributed to a

as a model for other Germanic tribe of
portraits, and was not eastern Germany.
considered art itself.

86
 Must See

Did You Know?

The museum was closed
for 70 years, from
1939 to 2009.

Sarcophagi from the Egyptian

Museum and Papyrus Collection

87
 2"'-=

BERLINER DOM
 W2 ⌂ Am Lustgarten  Hackescher Markt @ 100, 300
# 9am–8pm daily (to 7pm in winter), noon–8pm Sun & public hols
∑ berlinerdom.de
EXPERIENCE Museumsinsel

Standing on the east bank of the Spree, Berlin Cathedral is

singled out from its neighbours on Museumsinsel, allowing
visitors to fully take in this awe-inspiring city landmark.

The original Berliner Dom was completed in 1750,

based on a modest Baroque design by Johann
Boumann. The present Neo-Baroque structure is
the work of Julius Raschdorff and dates from 1894
to 1905. The central copper dome is some 98 m
(321 ft) high. Following severe World War II damage,
the cathedral has been restored in a simplified
form but still contains some original features like
the pulpit and altar.

Sauer’s Organ
contains some
7,200 pipes.

270
The number of steps up
to the dome’s walkway,
with great views over
Museumsinsel.

Hidden beneath the floor,

the Imperial Hohenzollern
family crypt contains 100
richly decorated sarcophagi.

88
 Must See
GREAT VIEW
Light Show
For ten days in October,
Berlin gets a kaleido­
scopic remix during
the annual Festival of
Lights, when famous
sights like the Berliner
Dom become canvases
for creative light shows.

During the Festival of Lights, the façade of

the cathedral is transformed by changing
light and video projections
The mosaics
inside the dome
contain over
half a million
tiles each.

The impressive Neo­Renaissance interior

features some extravagant furnishings
and impressive decorations

DOME MOSAICS
Look up at the interior of the dome to
marvel at Anton von Werner’s intricate
mosaics. All but destroyed during
World War II, von Werner’s original
designs were used by Tuscan company
Ferrari & Bacci to reproduce the
mosaics between 1975 and 2002.

The Berliner Dom, a

Neo­Baroque cathedral
dating back to 1750

89
 3"'-=

PERGAMONMUSEUM
 V2 ⌂ Am Kupfergraben 5  Hackescher Markt, Friedrichstrasse % Museumsinsel
@ 100, 300 v 12, M1 # 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm Thu) ∑ smb.museum

This unique museum is home to a magnificent collection

EXPERIENCE Museumsinsel

of large architectural treasures excavated by German

archaeologists in the late 19th century.
The exhibits are as awe-inspiring for their
fantastic designs as for their grand scale.

Built between 1910 and 1930 to a design by

Alfred Messel and Ludwig Hoffmann, this
museum houses one of Europe’s most
famous collections of antiquities. The
three independent collections – the
Collection of Classical Antiquities (Greek
and Roman), the Museum of the Ancient
Near East and the Museum of Islamic Art –
are the result of intensive archaeological
excavations by late 19th- and early 20th-
century German expeditions to the Near and
Middle East. Due to renovations, some areas of the
museum – including the hall containing the Pergamon
Altar – will remain closed until 2025. However, the south
wing, housing highlights like the Ishtar Gate and the
Processional Way, remains open.

The Pergamonmuseum backs

on to the river Spree

Entrance to the
James-Simon-Galerie

JAMES-SIMON-GALERIE
While construction of the new wing is underway,
the Pergamonmuseum can only be entered through
the James-Simon-Galerie. This new entrance building,
designed by David Chipperfield, serves as a central
reception area for the visitors of Museumsinsel.
It also has an area for temporary exhibitions and
a large museum shop.

90
 Must See

The Miletus Market Gate and a detail

from the Pergamon Altar (inset), from
the Antikensammlung collection

91
 MUSEUM OF THE INSIDER TIP

ANCIENT NEAR EAST Pergamon

Panorama
The collection on display impressive in size, the Ishtar A 360-degree panorama
in the Vorderasiatisches Gate has in fact not been of the ancient city of
Museum (Museum of the reconstructed in full, and a Pergamon will be on
Ancient Near East) is one model of the whole structure show until the famous
of the richest in the world, shows the scale of the original Pergamon Altar is back
EXPERIENCE Museumsinsel

due to hugely successful complex. Only the inner gate, on display. This jaw-
excavations begun by framed by two towers, is dropping, ultra-realistic
German archaeologists in the on display, decorated with panorama was created
1880s. The collection features dragons and bulls, emblems by artist Yadegar Asisi,
architecture, sculpture and of the Babylonian gods who has other work on
jewellery from Babylon, Iran Marduk, patron of the city, display in Berlin (p77).
and Assyria, with pieces and Adad, god of storms.
dating as far back as the
4th century BC.
One striking exhibit is the
magnificent Ishtar Gate and
the Processional Way that
leads to it. These were both
built during the reign of
Nebuchadnezzar II (604–562
BC) in the ancient city of
Babylon. The original avenue
was about 180 m (590 ft) long.
Many of the bricks used in its
reconstruction are new, but
the lions – sacred animals of
the goddess Ishtar (mistress
of the sky, goddess of love
and patron of the army) –
are all originals. Although

The magnificent Ishtar

Gate (6th century BC)

COLLECTION OF
CLASSICAL ANTIQUITIES
Berlin’s collection of Greek Turkey. It is thought to have
and Roman antiquities been built to celebrate victory
(Antikensammlung) came in war and to have been
into existence during the commissioned by King
17th century. The centre- Eumenes in 170 BC. This
piece of the collection is the artistic masterpiece was
huge Pergamon Altar from discovered in a decrepit state
the acropolis of the ancient by German archaeologist
city of Pergamon in Asia Carl Humann, who, after long
Minor, which is now Bergama, negotiations, was allowed
to transport the surviving
portions of the altar to Berlin.
Roman architecture is
Marble statue of represented by the striking
Athena Parthenos 2nd-century-AD market gate
(Athena the Virgin) from the city of Miletus.

92
 Must See
MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART
The history of the Museum Omayyad period (AD 661–
für Islamische Kunst (Museum 750), and probably built for
of Islamic Art) began in 1904, the Caliph al-Walid II.
when Wilhelm von Bode Another fascinating exhibit
launched the collection by is a beautiful 13th-century
donating his own extensive mihrab, the niche in a mosque
selection of carpets. He also that shows the direction of
brought to Berlin a 45-m- Mecca. Made in the Iranian
(150-ft-) long section of the town of Kashan, renowned
façade of the Mshatta Palace, for its ceramics, the mihrab is
a Jordanian desert palace. covered in lustrous metallic
The façade, covered with glazes that make it sparkle as
exquisitely carved limestone if studded with sapphires and
cladding, was presented gold. The collection’s many
to Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1903 vivid carpets come from as
by Sultan Abdul Hamid of far afield as Iran, Asia Minor,
Ottoman. The palace was Egypt and the Caucasus.
part of a group of defence Highlights include an early Islamic carpets on display
fortresses and residential 15th-century carpet from at the Pergamonmuseum
buildings dating from the Anatolia decorated with an
unusual dragon and phoenix
motif and, dating from the paintings and various objects
14th century, one of the for daily use. An interesting
earliest Turkish carpets example of provincial
Did You Know? in existence. Ottoman architecture is an
Other rooms hold exquisitely panelled early
Al-Mshatta was never
collections of miniature 17th-century reception room,
completed due to the
known as the Aleppo Zimmer,
assassination of the
which was once part of a
Umayyad Caliph,
Christian merchant’s house
al-Walid II.
in the Syrian city of Aleppo.

Façade of the Mshatta

Palace (AD 744)

93
 The wedge-shaped
Bode-Museum on
Museumsinsel

EXPERIENCE MORE
of the Berlin state museums
4" at the time. The museum, 5
Bode-Museum which opened in 1904, Schlossbrücke
displayed a rather mixed
 V2 ⌂ Monbijoubrücke  W3  Hackescher Markt
collection that included some
(Bodestrasse 1–3)  Museumsinsel @ 100, 300
Old Masters. Its original name,
 Hackescher Markt,
Kaiser Friedrich Museum, was This is one of the city’s
Friedrichstrasse @ 100, 147,
changed after World War II. most beautiful bridges,
300 v 12, M1, M4, M5, M6
Following the reassembling connecting Schlossplatz (p96)
# 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun (to
of the Berlin collections, all with Unter den Linden (p72).
8pm Thu) ∑ smb.museum
of the paintings were put in It was built in 1824 to a design
The Bode-Museum building the Gemäldegalerie (p158). by Karl Friedrich Schinkel
was designed in the 1890s The Egyptian art and the (p28), who was one of
by Ernst von Ihne to fit the papyrus collection were Germany’s most influential
wedge-shaped end of the moved to the Ägyptisches architects. Statues were
island. The interior was Museum (Egyptian Museum) added to the top of the
designed with the help of at Charlottenburg. They are bridge’s sparkling granite
an art historian, Wilhelm von now housed at the Neues pillars in 1853. These figures
Bode, who was the director Museum (p86). were also created by Schinkel
All the collections are back and made of stunning white
on display following major Carrara marble. The statues
renovation work. Highlights depict tableaux taken from
include an outstanding Greek mythology, for instance
Did You Know? collection of some of the Iris, Nike and Athena training
world’s oldest coins, from and looking after their
Museumsinsel was Athens in the 6th century BC, favourite young warriors.
designated a UNESCO as well as Roman, medieval Remember to take a
World Heritage Site and 20th-century coins. There close look at the wrought-
in 1999. are also sculptures by Tilman iron balustrade, which is
Riemenschneider, Donatello, delightfully decorated with
Bernini and Canova. intertwined sea creatures.

94
6" 8
Alte Nationalgalerie Lustgarten
 W2 ⌂ Bodestrasse 1–3  W2  Hackescher Markt
 Hackescher Markt, @ 100, 300
Friedrichstrasse
The enchanting garden in
 Museumsinsel @ 100,
front of the Altes Museum
300 v 12, M1, M4, M5
looks as though it has always
# 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to
been there, but in its present
8pm Thu) ∑ smb.museum
form it was established in
The Old National Gallery was the late 1990s.
completed in 1876 to a design An Adolph von Menzel Used to grow vegetables
by Friedrich August Stüler, who work at the Alte and herbs for the Stadtschloss
took into account the sketches Nationalgalerie until the late 16th century,
made by Friedrich Wilhelm IV. it became a real Lustgarten
The building is situated on a (pleasure garden) in the
high platform reached via a reign of the Great Elector
double staircase. On the top 7"= (p215). However, its statues,
stands an equestrian statue of Altes Museum grottoes, fountains and exotic
Friedrich Wilhelm IV, the work vegetation were removed
 W2 ⌂ Am Lustgarten
of Alexander Calandrelli in when Friedrich Wilhelm I
(Bodestrasse 1–3)
1886. Details on the façade (1688–1740), known for his
 Hackescher Markt
reflect the building’s purpose love of military pursuits,
 Museumsinsel @ 100,
– the tympanum features turned the garden into an
300, TXL # 10am–6pm
Germania as patron of art, army drill ground.
Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu)
while the top is crowned with Following the construction
∑ smb.museum
a personification of the arts. of the Altes Museum, the
Originally meant to house The Old Museum building, ground became a park,
modern art, the current designed by Karl Friedrich designed by Peter Joseph
museum includes works of Schinkel, is one of the world’s Lenné. In 1831 it was adorned
masters such as Adolph von most beautiful Neo-Classical with a monolithic granite bowl
Menzel, Wilhelm Leibl, Max structures, with a 87-m- (285- by Christian Gottlieb Cantian,
Liebermann (p245) and Arnold ft-) high portico supported by to a design by Schinkel. The
Böcklin. There is no shortage 18 Ionic columns. Built in 1830 63-tonne (70-ton) bowl,
of sculptures either, with for the royal collection of art measuring nearly 7 m (23 ft)
works by Christian Daniel and antiquities, it now houses in diameter, was intended for
Rauch, Johann Gottfried part of Berlin’s Collection of the museum rotunda, but was
Schadow, Antonio Canova and Classical Antiquities, with too heavy to carry inside.
Reinhold Begas. Another two permanent exhibitions on After 1933, the Lustgarten
halls display paintings from the art and culture of ancient was paved over and turned
the German Romantic era, Greece and on Roman and into a parade ground, remain-
including works by Caspar Etruscan art and sculptures, ing as such until 1989. Its
David Friedrich, Karl Friedrich with temporary exhibition current restoration is based
Schinkel and Karl Blechen. space on the second floor. on Lenné’s original designs.

BERLIN’S BRIDGES S-
OS
HL TZ
Sp

Despite wartime damage, Berlin’s bridges SC PLA

BR

re
EI

ER
e

are still well worth seeing. The Spree river SCH

TE

DER T MUSEUMS-
U N T ST R A S

WER MARK
and the city’s canals have some exemplary -
ST

INSEL NS
E RW S E

RA
S

AN E
pre

SS

architecture on their banks, while many of UM ASS

ASS
KU

NE G
E
ek
E R-

the bridges were designed and decorated

RS

an

BR
TR

al

ÜD

by famous architects and sculptors. There

AS

ER
SE

ST

are several particularly stunning bridges

FR

R.
IED

R.

as you head west from Museumsinsel.

RIC

ST
O B ST R

HS

EN

KU
ER AS

GR

RS
UD
WA S E

TR
.

Bridges of Museumsinsel
RA

NI AS
SS

ED SE
RT
ER

ER
-

GE

1 Schleusenbrücke
WA
LL
ST
RA
2 Jungfernbrücke
SS
E

3 Gertraudenbrücke
SPITTEL-
MARKT

95
 The impressive
Marstall over­
looking the Spree

palace is the triumphal-arch ownership of the items it will

9 portal that once adorned the contain, as many were acquired
Schlossplatz façade on the Lustgarten side. during Germany’s colonial era.
In 1989 the square reverted
 W3  Hackescher Markt
to its original name, Schloss- Humboldt Forum
 Museumsinsel @ 100,
platz, and in 1993 a full-scale " = - ⌂ Schloßplatz, 10178
200, 300
model of the old palace was # Check website for details
This square was once the site of built out of cloth stretched over ∑ humboldtforum.org
a gigantic residential complex scaffolding. After a lengthy
known as the Stadtschloss (City debate and an architectural
Palace). Built first as a castle competition won by Franco
in 1451, it served as the main Stella, it was decided to rebuild 10
residence of the Brandenburg the palace as a museum com- Marstall
Electors. Rebuilt in the style plex with three reconstructed
 W3 ⌂ Schlossplatz/
of a three-storey palace in the historical façades and a mod-
Breite Strasse 36–37
16th century, it became the ern one. Named after Berlin’s
 Museumsinsel,
main seat of the Hohenzollern most prominent intellectual
Spittelmarkt @ 147, 248
family for almost 500 years figures: Wilhelm and Alexander
until the end of the monarchy. von Humboldt (p68), the The buildings of the former
The palace partly burned down Humboldt Forum will open Royal Stables form a huge
during World War II, and in in stages in 2021. While many complex, occupying the area
1950–1, despite protests, the anticipate it to be Berlin’s between the Spree and Breite
palace was demolished and answer to the British Museum Strasse, south of Schlossplatz.
the square was renamed Marx- in London, or the Louvre in The wing on the side of Breite
Engels-Forum under the GDR. Paris, this “culture complex” has Strasse is a fragment of the old
All that remains of the original sparked debate over the true structure built in 1669. It was
designed by Michael Matthias
Smids and is the only surviving
HOUSE OF ONE early Baroque building in
Along with the museum renovations on the north end Berlin. The wings running along
of Museumsinsel, the development of the ambitious Schlossplatz and the Spree
and unique House Of One is taking place to the south. river were built much later,
The project blends a synagogue, a church and a mosque in 1901, but are reminiscent
to provide a place of worship for Jews, Christians and of the Berlin Baroque style –
Muslims alike. Located at Petriplatz in the historic probably because von Ihne
Cölln district, its various sections will be linked by modelled them on designs
a communal room that will serve as a meeting point by Jean de Bodt from 1700.
for interested visitors and religious parties. Once the imperial home
of more than 300 horses, the
building now houses the

96
 restoration of the building,
12 which shows off the surviving
Staatsratsgebäude original interior features.
 W3 ⌂ Schlossplatz 1
 &  Alexanderplatz
@ 100, 147, 200, M48 14
The former Staatsrats­ Ribbeckhaus
gebäude, an administrative
 W3 ⌂ Breite Strasse 35
building that was once the
 Spittelmarkt @ 147, 248,
seat of the highest state
M48
government council of East
Germany, was constructed Four identical, picturesque
in 1964. It now stands alone gables crown central Berlin’s
on the southern side of the only surviving Renaissance
square, as all the other former building, the Ribbeck House.
Socialist state buildings that It was built around 1624 for
once formed the government Hans Georg von Ribbeck, a
centre in this area have long court counsellor, who soon
been demolished. The Staats­ sold it to Anna Sophie of
ratsgebäude features the Brunswick. After her death
remaining original sculptures, in 1659, the house passed to
including the magnificent her nephew, Elector Friedrich
Hanns Eisler Academy of atlantes by the famous Wilhelm. As crown property,
Music and also hosts a branch Dresden sculptor Balthasar it later housed various state
of the Berlin City Library. Permoser. Their inclusion, administrative offices.
however, was not due to their The façade has beautiful
artistic merit, but rather to wrought­iron grilles on the
their propaganda value: it ground­floor windows and a
11 " was from the balcony of the late Renaissance portal, bear­
Nicolaihaus portal that Karl Liebknecht ing the date and coat of arms
proclaimed the birth of the of the von Ribbecks. This was
 W4 ⌂ Brüderstrasse 13
Socialist Republic. replaced in 1960 with a copy,
§ 20 45 81 63  Spittel­
but apart from that, the house
markt @ 147, 265, 248
is a remarkable example of
Built around 1670, the architectural survival from
Nicolaihaus is a fine example of 13 the city’s history.
Baroque architecture, with its Galgenhaus
original, magnificent oak stair­
 W4 ⌂ Brüderstrasse 10
case still in place. The house
§ 206 13 29 13  Spittel­
owes its fame, however, to its
markt @ 147, 265, 248
time as the home and book­
# 10am–6pm Mon–Sat
shop of the publisher, writer
and critic Christoph Friedrich The Gallows House, so named
Nicolai (1733–1811). One of for a local legend in which an
the outstanding personalities innocent woman was hanged,
of the Berlin Enlightenment, was originally built as the
Nicolai was a supporter of such presbytery of the lost church
notable cultural figures as of St Peter. Redesigned in the
the Jewish philosopher Moses Neo­Classical style around
Mendelssohn (p130) and the 1805, the front portal and one
playwright Gotthold Ephraim room on the ground floor are
Lessing. Other regular artis­ all that remain of the original
tic visitors included Johann Baroque structure. The new
Gottfried Schadow, Karl building is, however, a delight:
Wilhelm Ramler and Daniel perfectly symmetrical, it
Chodowiecki, all commemo­ resembles nothing so much as
rated with a wall plaque. Today, a dolls’ house made life­size.
the building houses the offices Today the building houses
of the German Association the commercial Kewenig
of Protected Buildings, and Gallery, which acquired
is open to the public only the building in 2013. Before Renaissance portal
by appointment. opening it undertook a major of the Ribbeckhaus

97
EXPERIENCE Museumsinsel

Armour on display in the

Weapons Room,
Märkisches Museum
1841
The year Prussian
style popular in the Branden- King Frederick
15 " burg region, architect Ludwig William IV dedicated
Märkisches Museum Hoffmann included references Museumsinsel to art
to Wittstock Castle and to and science.
 Y4 ⌂ Am Köllnischen
St Catherine’s Church in the
Park 5  &  Jannowitz­
city of Brandenburg. In
brücke  Märkisches
the entrance hall you’ll find
Museum, Heinrich­Heine
a statue of the hero Roland the Berlin theatre during
Strasse @ 147, 248, 265
standing guard, which is a copy the period 1730 to 1933,
# 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
of the 15th-century monument including many posters,
∑ stadtmuseum.de
in the city of Brandenburg. The old programmes and stage
This architectural pastiche is a main hall features the original sets. One of the galleries
complex of red-brick buildings Gothic portal from the Berlin houses some charming
that most resembles a medie- residence of the Margraves old-time mechanical musical
val monastery. It was built of Brandenburg, demolished instruments, which are
between 1901 and 1908 to in 1931. Also featured is played by musicians once
house a collection relating one of the original horse’s a week, at 5pm on Friday,
to the history of Berlin and heads from the Schadow in a special show.
the Brandenburg region, Quadriga, which crowns the The Märkisches Museum is
from the time of the earliest Brandenburg Gate (p78). a branch of the Stadtmuseum
settlers to the present. A further collection in the Berlin organization, and those
Inspired by the Brick Gothic same building is devoted to who wish to find out more

98
about the history of the
city can visit other affiliated CÖLLN
museums and monuments An ancient settlement in the area called Fischerinsel at
such as the Nikolaikirche the southern end of Museumsinsel, the village of Cölln
(p112) and the Ephraim- with its medieval church has now been razed almost to
Palais (p113). Surrounding the the ground. Until 1939, however, this working-class area
museum is the Köllnischer with its tangle of narrow streets maintained a historical
Park, which has a kennel built character of its own. This vanished completely in the
in 1928 to house brown bears 1960s, when most of the buildings were replaced with
kept as city mascots, and an tower blocks. A few historical houses, including the
unusual statue of Berlin artist Ermeler-Haus, were reconstructed elsewhere, but the
Heinrich Zille (p112). atmosphere of this part of town has changed forever.

y 1760 and the notable museum, the Historic Port of

Ermeler-Haus 18th-century staircase has Berlin, which was once located
also been rebuilt. in the Humboldt Port. One
 X4 ⌂ Märkisches Ufer 10
A modern hotel has been of the boats is now used
 Märkisches Museum,
built to the rear of the house as a café, while another, the
Heinrich-Heine Strasse
facing Wallstrasse, using Renate Angelika, houses a
@ 147, 200, 248, 265
Ermeler-Haus as its kitchens, small exhibition on the history
With its harmonious Neo- while the first-floor rooms are of inland waterway transport
Classical façade, the Ermeler used for special events. on the Spree and Havel.
House stands out as one of
the most handsome villas in
Berlin. This house was once
the town residence of Wilhelm 17 18
Ferdinand Ermeler, a wealthy Historischer Märkisches Ufer
merchant and shopkeeper Hafen Berlin
 Y4  Märkisches
who made his money trad-
 X4 ⌂ Märkisches Ufer Museum, Heinrich-Heine
|ing in tobacco. It originally
 Märkisches Ufer, Strasse @ 147, 248, 265
stood on Fischerinsel on
Heinrich-Heine Strasse
the opposite bank of the Once called Neukölln am
@ 147, 248, 265 # 1–6pm
river, at Breite Strasse No. 11, Wasser (meaning Neukölln on
Sat & Sun ∑ historischer-
but in 1968 the house was the water), this street, which
hafen-berlin.de
dismantled and reconstructed runs alongside the Spree river,
on this new site. The house Moored on the south shore is one of the few corners of
was remodelled in 1825 to of the island in an area called Berlin where it is still possible
Ermeler’s specifications, with Fischerinsel, and opposite the to see the town much as
a decor that includes a frieze Märkisches Ufer, are several it must have looked in the
alluding to aspects of the examples of boats, barges 18th and 19th centuries. Eight
tobacco business. Restorers and tugboats which operated pretty houses have been
have recreated much of the on the Spree river at the end meticulously conserved here.
original façade. The Rococo of the 19th century. These Two Neo-Baroque houses
furniture dates from about craft constitute an open-air at No. 16 and No. 18, known
as Otto-Nagel-Haus, used
to contain a small museum
displaying paintings by Otto
Nagel, a great favourite with
the Communist authorities.
The building now houses
the photo archives for the
state museums of Berlin.
A number of pretty garden
cafés and fashionable restau-
rants make this attractive area
very popular with tourists.

Boats moored at the

Historischer Hafen Berlin

99
 A SHORT WALK
MUSEUMSINSEL
Distance 1km (0.5 miles) Nearest tram
station Georgenstr./Am Kupfergraben This railway bridge
EXPERIENCE Museumsinsel

Time 10 minutes is also used by the

S-Bahn.
A stroll around the northern end of this
island will introduce you to some of
Berlin’s most famous sights, like the
Lustgarten and the Berliner Dom (Berlin
Cathedral). It is also where you will find
START
some of the most important museums in
the east of the city. These include the
Bode-Museum, the Altes Museum and the
splendid Pergamon-museum with its
collection of antiquities

The dome-covered rounded

corner of the Bode-Museum
provides a prominent landmark
at the tip of the island (p94).

The Pergamonmuseum is famous

for its reconstruction of fragments of
ancient towns such as Miletus and
Babylon, as well as the original friezes
from the Pergamon Altar (p90).
A

The newest addition to Museumsinsel,

M

the James-Simon-Galerie (p90) is a

K
U

modern welcome centre for visitors

P
FE

0 metres 100 N and also hosts temporary exhibitions.

R
G

The museum shop is located here.

R

0 yards 100
A
B
E
N

The current building of the Berliner Dom

was completed in 1905

100
 MUSEUMS-
The Lustgarten, INSEL
originally used
to grow food for
the Stadschloss
kitchens
Locator Map
For more detail see p84
The equestrian statue of
King Friedrich Wilhelm IV in
front of the Alte Nationalgalerie
(Old National Gallery) is the work
of Alexander Calandrelli (p95). The Neues Museum (New Museum) houses
the Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection
plus parts of the Museum of Pre- and Early
History, as well as items from the Collection
of Classical Antiquities (p86).

The corners of the Altes Museum

(Old Museum) building feature
figures of Castor and Pollux,
heroes of Greek myth (p95).

E
S
S
A
S TR
E The Neo-Baroque
D
O interior of the Berliner
B
Dom (Berlin Cathedral)
features some extravagant
19th-century furnishings.

E
S
S
A
S TR
E
D
O
B

LUSTGARTEN The Lustgarten park has

had several incarnations,
including a kitchen garden
and a military parade
ground. In the 20th
century it was often used
R. for political rallies (p88).
ST
T
E CH
KE KN
R ÜC I EB
SSB –L
LO
SCH RL
KA
Did You Know?
FINISH Many famous German
personalities have lived
The unusual Schlossbrücke on Am Kupfergraben,
(Palace bridge) features statues including Hegel and
made of stunning white Carrara Angela Merkel.
marble (p94).

101
Berlin-Alexanderplatz station and the Fernsehturm

ALEXANDERPLATZ
This area is the historical centre of the city, as it
includes the site where the settlement of Berlin
was first established in the 13th century. Traces
of Berlin’s earliest history can still be found here,
including the city’s oldest surviving church –
Marienkirche, founded in 1280 – and the
reconstructed old town around Nikolaiviertel.
The area still offers cosy mews and alleys, which
are surrounded by postwar high-rise blocks.
The legacy of East Berlin is also particularly
strong in the architecture around Alexanderplatz.
The GDR regime replaced the huge apartment
buildings and department stores just to the
north with a square, Marx-Engels-Forum and the
Fernsehturm, which can be seen from almost
anywhere in the city.

103
 E E
ASS ASS
STR STSTR
UST U
AUG AUG

R.

R.
ST

ST
R

R
SE

EE
ASSS

E
AU

STR AU

ASS
S C H E USNC EHNE -U N E N -

NH

NH
SO SO

STR
VIERTV E LI E R T E L PH PH

HÖ

HÖ
S TR.

S TR.
IE IE

ER-

ER-
N N

SC

SC
ST ST Weinmeister-
Weinmeister-
RA RA strasse strasse

-BE

-BE
SS SS

TE

TE
LER

LER
ASSE ASSE E E
K S T R N IC K S T R

AL

AL

SE
MAX

MAX
S N IC S
KRAU KRAU

AS
HA

HA

TR

TR
NT

NT

-S

-S
Hackesche
HackescheNORTH
NORTH
MITTEMITTE
AND AND

RG

RG
SE

SE
Höfe Höfe
PRENZLAUER
PRENZLAUER
BERG BERG

BU

BU
RO

RO

EM

EM
p118 p118

UX

UX
-L

-L
SA

SA
O R A N I E NOB R
UARN
GIEERN B
S TURR.G E R S T R .

RO

RO
N S T R AKSSSEEN S T R A S S E
CKSE C
DIR DIR

HACKESCHER
HACKESCHER
MARKT MARKT
E E
S S
S S
A A
TR TR
S S
Hackescher
Hackescher H H
OC OC
Markt Markt R R
Bahnhof Bahnhof
B UR G S T

B UR G S T

James-Simon-
James-Simon-
Park Park
Alexanderplatz
Alexanderplatz
RO RO
Spr Spr LITFASS- LITFASS-
PLATZ S E SE
ee ee PLATZ
N N
R A SSE

R A SSE

ST ST
SE SE
RA RA E E
SS SS
S S SS SS
S P ST R

SP TR

T RA T RA E E
A A
AN AS

AN AS

Pergamon-
Pergamon- HS HS
TR TR
S

C C
RO RO
DA S E

DA S E

museum museum S S Fernsehturm

Fernsehturm
UE

UE

Friedrich- Heiliggeistkapelle
Friedrich- Heiliggeistkapelle
brücke brücke
T- T-
R

Neues Neues G- G- H H
Museum Museum
E SE
AN
FG E
AN
FG E EC EC
SS AS OL SS OL SS N N Marienkirche
Marienkirche
R A R -W TRA -W TRA K K
HE GA

HE GA

ST ST EB EB
T
S S T
S S
ILI SS

ILI SS

E
DE DE LI LI SS
GG E

GG E

BO BO RA TR
A
Berliner Berliner DDR DDR
EIS

EIS

ST SS
James-Simon-
James-Simon- Neptunbrunnen
NeptunbrunnenS
T-

T-

L- L-
AM

AM

Dom Dom Museum Museum AU AU

Galerie Galerie R R AT
H
AT
H
LU

LU

R R
KA KA
SP

SP
ST

ST

Rotes Rathaus
Rotes Rathaus
AN

AN
GA

GA

MUSEUMS-
MUSEUMS-
D

D
RT

RT

AU

AU

JÜ

JÜ
INSEL INSEL
AM

AM

EN

EN

DE

DE
ER

ER

N
ZEU

ZEU

Liebknecht- Liebknecht-
ST

ST

KL
brücke brücke Rotes Rotes
RA

RA
GHA

GHA

O
Marx-Engels-
Marx-Engels- S E
SS

SS

S E Rathaus Rathaus
R.

Zeughaus
Zeughaus
E

Forum Forum R A S AS
US

US

ST

R - -
ST

ST

(DHM) (DHM) S ST S ST AV R . AV R . S
ST -ST ST -ST
RA

RA

ER

ER
Schlossbrücke
Schlossbrücke AU AU GU SS GU SS
NU S B A UM

NU S B A UM

H H
AT AT
SS

SS
AM

AM

Ö Ö
UN

UN

R R B B
MUSEUMSINSEL
MUSEUMSINSEL
E

JÜ

JÜ
GR

GR
S

Gerichtslaube
Gerichtslaube
DE

DE

Kronprinzen-
Kronprinzen- p82 p82 Rathaus- Rathaus- R. R.
ST ST
NST

NS

palais palais brücke brücke

ST ST PA R
P P MOLKEN- MOLKEN-
SP

SP

RO RO
PO

PO

RASSE

MARKT MARKT
RE

RE

P Nikolaikirche
P Nikolaikirche
ST

ST
EU

EU
NIEDER

NIEDER

ST

ST
FE

FE

R.

R.

Z T Z Zille Museum
R

AT LA Zille Museum
PL SP Knoblauchhaus
Knoblauchhaus
SS Marstall Marstall
L AG S T R O B E RW

L AG S T R

O OS NIKOLAI- NIKOLAI-
HL L
MM

MM

H
SC SC VIERTELVIERTEL
BR

BR

S
DA

DA
.

.
O B E RW A

EI

EI

Ephraim-Ephraim- Palais Palais

EN

EN
TE

TE

ER ER Schleusenbrücke
Schleusenbrücke Ribbeckhaus
Ribbeckhaus
Palais Palais SchwerinSchwerin
SCH SCH
DER T DER T
HL

HL
ST

ST

and Münze
and Münze
A L L ST R A

W E R M A R KW E R M A R K
RA

RA
L L ST R A S

MÜ

MÜ
SS

SS

Mühlendamm-
Mühlendamm- ROL R
A N D U FO L A N D U F
Sp

Sp

brücke brücke
E

ER ER
SSE

ree

ree
SE

ka

ka

BR

BR

Mühlendamm-
Mühlendamm
na

na

Schleuse Schleuse
D

D
ER

ER
l

ST

ST
RA

RA

E E
SS SS
SS

SS

A A
E

R R
FI

FI

ST ST
R.

R. SC

SC

N N
ST

ST

E E
R R Insel- Inse
H

H
EN

EN

R R
ER

ER

A A brücke brück
H H
UD

UD

ALEXANDERPLATZ
ALEXANDERPLATZ SC SC
IN

IN
RA

RA

ER ER
SE

SE

UF UF
RT

RT

S S
FISCHERINSEL
FISCHERINSEL HE HE
GE

GE

C C
KIS KIS
M ÄR MÄ
R
Rossstrassen-
Rossstrassen-
brücke brücke
MärkischesMärkisches
Museum Museum
NE

NE

E E
SS SS
RA RA
UE

UE

ST ST
LL LL
RO

RO

WA WA
SS

SS

Spittelmarkt
Spittelmarkt
ST

ST
R.

R.
 M M
O O
LL LL

ALEXANDERPLATZ
SE SE
ST ST
S S RA RA
T RA T RA
S S SS SS
ER ER

SE

SE
G G
Y DIN Y DIN E E
WE WE

AS

AS
Must Sees
TR

TR
1 Alexanderplatz
-S

-S
HT

HT
2 Marienkirche
EC

EC
N

W W
AD AD
BK

BK

ZE ZE
Experience More
SE

IE

IE

CK CK
AS

ST ST
-L

-L

3 Heiliggeistkapelle
RA RA
RL

RL

SS SS
E E
KA

KA

4 DDR Museum
5 Marx-Engels-Forum
6 Rotes Rathaus
AL AL
EX EX 7 Neptunbrunnen
AN AN
DE DE 8 Nikolaikirche
RS RS
TR TR 9 Knoblauchhaus
AS AS
SE SE 0 Zille Museum
q Ephraim-Palais
w Franziskaner Klosterkirche
e Gerichtslaube
Alexander-
Alexander-
platz Alexanderplatz r Parochialkirche
Alexanderplatz
platz
t Palais Schwerin and Münze
E

y Stadtmauer
SS

SS
RA

RA

Eat
ST

ST

1 Zum Nussbaum
R

R
E

N N
U U
R R 2 Gastätte Zur letzen Instanz
AL

AL

SE G G
AS
EX

EX

Stay
AN

AN
D

D
IR

IR

3 Nikolai Residence
DE

DE
CK

CK

RS

RS
SE

SE

Franziskaner
Franziskaner
NS

NS

TR

TR

Klosterkirche
Klosterkirche
TR

TR

SE

SE

E E
SS SS
AS

AS

RA RA
ASS

ASS

SS

SS
AS

AS

ST ST
KL

IN IN
SE

SE

RA

RA
TR

TR

Z Z
LIT

LIT

GA GA
E

E
OS

OS

MA MA
ST

ST
GS

GS
R.

TE

TE
TE

TE

EN

EN
IN

IN
NS

NS
ST
RS

RS

UM

UM
LL

LL

R. R.
TRA

TRA
TR

TR

T T
HI

HI

ES ES
BL

BL
AS

AS

IR IR
SSE

SSE

SC

SC

LTA LTA
UE

UE
SE

SE

VO VO
NE

NE

E E
RASS RASS FRIEDRICHSHAIN
FRIEDRICHSHAIN
IALST OCHIALST
ROCH PA R SI SI
p142 p142
TRAS

NG NG
WAI

WAI

ER ER
Parochial-
Parochial- ST ST
Stadtmauer
kirche kirche Stadtmauer
SE

SEN

SEN

RA RA
SS SS
E E
STR

STR
ASS

ASS

STR S
E

ALA TRALA
UER STRUER
A S SSET R A S S E
E

E
SS

SS

D U F ELRA N D U F E R
RA

RA

ROLAN RO Jannowitzbrücke
Jannowitzbrücke
ST

ST

S p re e S p re e
R

HO HO
GE

GE

m- Jannowitz- Jannowitz- LZ LZ
ER

ER

brücke brücke MA MA
RK RK
NB

NB

I S C H E SR U ISCH
ÄRK Ä KFER ES UFER
M M TS TS
A M K Ö L L NIS

A M K Ö L L NIS

TE

TE

TR TR
Märkisches
Märkisches AS AS
CH

CH

Museum Museum SE SE
LI

LI

el- E E
ke SS SS
RA RA
CH

CH

ST ST
LL LL
EN P A R K

EN P A R K

WA WA
SE

SE

RUNGESTRA
RS Michael- Michael-
RAS

RAS

USNEG E S T R A S S E
IN

IN

brücke brücke
SE

SE

NST

NST
LS

LS

TR TR
s AS AS
CKE

CKE

SE SE
0 metres 0 metres 250 N 250 N
BRÜ

BRÜ

0 yards 0 yards 250 250

 1

ALEXANDERPLATZ
 Y2  &  Alexanderplatz @ 100, 200, 245, 248, 300 v M5, M6, M8

A veritable treasure-trove of Soviet architecture, Alexanderplatz is a

bustling square well worth a visit for its shops and restaurants, and
EXPERIENCE Alexanderplatz

to get a taste of the dynamic side of Berlin the locals see every day.

Alexanderplatz, or “Alex” as it is known

locally, has a long and tumultuous history,
although it is difficult now to find any visible
traces of the not-so-recent past. Once called
Ochsenmarkt (oxen market), it was the site
of a cattle and wool market. It was later
renamed after Tsar Alexander I, who visited
Berlin in 1805. Houses and shops sprang up
along with a market hall and train station,
and by the early 20th century “Alex” had
become one of the city's busiest spots. In 1929,
attempts were made to develop the square,
though only two office buildings were added –
the Alexanderhaus and the Berolinahaus.
Walter Womacka’s mural Unser Leben (Our These two, both by Peter Behrens, are still
Life) circling the Haus des Lehrers standing today. World War II erased most
of the square’s older buildings and it is now
surrounded by 1960s edifices, including the
Park Inn and the Fernsehturm.

The World Clock, an iconic

city landmark

1928 1931 1939 1967

Timeline

▲ Alfred Döblin’s novel ▲ Döblin himself ▲ Richard Schneider- The light-hearted Ein
Berlin Alexanderplatz, worked on Piel Jutzi’s Edenkoben’s Lord am Alexanderplatz
set in working-class film adaptation of his Silvesternacht am (A Lord of
neighbourhoods near book, starring Heinrich Alexanderplatz Alexanderplatz) depicts
Alex during the 1920s, George, Maria Bard and (New Year’s Eve on the square during its
describes the trials and Margarete Schlegel, Alexanderplatz) is East German years.
tribulations of petty among others. considered one of the
criminal protagonist better films from the
Franz Biberkopf. Third Reich era.

106
 Must See

"\
Fernsehturm
 X2 ⌂ Panoramastrasse
1A  &  Alexanderplatz,
Rotes Rathaus @ 100,
200, 245, 300, TXL v M2,
M4, M5, M6 # Mar–Oct:
9am–midnight daily; Nov–
Feb: 10am–midnight daily
∑ tv-turm.de

The Television Tower,

nicknamed Telespargel
(toothpick) by locals, is the
city’s tallest structure, at 368 m
(1,207 ft), and is one of the
tallest structures in Europe. One
of the attractions of the tower
is the revolving restaurant: a
full rotation takes about half
an hour, so it is possible to get a
bird’s-eye view of the whole city
while sipping a cup of coffee.
On a clear day visibility can
reach up to 40 km (25 miles).

The Fernsehturm is
visible from almost THE FUTURE OF ALEXANDERPLATZ
any point in Berlin.
The viewing platform The plan to breathe some contemporary life into
is 203 m (666 ft) above Alexanderplatz goes back to 1993. A mix of factors has
the ground, offering a consistently thwarted those plans – as has the city’s
full view of the city decision to protect some of the Soviet-style buildings
as heritage-status structures. However, the Senate has
given preliminary approval for three proposed buildings
by prominent city architect Hans Kollhoff. Whether
these plans become reality is yet to be seen, but it’s the
furthest the ideas have got in a quarter of a century.

1980 2001 2004 2015

▲ Director Rainer ▲ Die Liebenden vom ▲ The Bourne Ernst Haffner’s 1932
Werner Fassbinder’s Alexanderplatz (The Supremacy, shot “long-lost” novel Blood
15-½-hour television Lovers from extensively in Berlin, Brothers, republished in
adaptation of Berlin Alexanderplatz) by features a scene where 2015, depicts the illicit
Alexanderplatz flopped Detlef Rönfeldt involves Bourne meets agent underworld of late-
upon release, but is a woman fleeing to Nicky Parsons at Alex’s Weimar Berlin, with
now considered his New York during war World Clock. much of the action
magnum opus. time and returning taking place on and
after the war. around Alexanderplatz.

107
 2"'=

MARIENKIRCHE
 X2 ⌂ Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 8  &  Alexanderplatz
@ 100, 200, 245, 248, 300 v M4, M5, M6 # 10am–6pm daily
∑ marienkirche-berlin.de
EXPERIENCE Alexanderplatz

The church of St Mary is a tranquil, medieval oasis in the heart

of Berlin. The early Gothic hall design and the lavish Baroque
touches make this one of the most interesting churches in the city.
Marienkirche was first established as a parish
church in the second half of the 13th century
and construction was completed early in
the 14th century. The main building is a long, The dome that
red-brick Gothic hall which still contains many crowns the tower
beautiful decorations and features dating includes both
from the mid-15th to early 18th century, such Baroque and
Neo-Gothic
as the baptismal font (1437) and the pulpit elements.
(1703). During reconstruction works in 1380
the church was altered slightly but its overall
shape changed only in the 15th century, when
it acquired the front tower. In 1790, the tower
was crowned with a dome designed by Carl
Gotthard Langhans. The church was once
hemmed in by buildings, but today it stands
alone in the shadow of the Fernsehturm
(Television Tower; p107).

Marienkirche,
a medieval
parish church

The central part of the

Gothic altar, known as
the retable, dating from
1510, features three
unknown monks.

Totentanz, meaning
“dance of death”, is
the name of a
22-m- (72-ft-) long
Gothic wall fresco,
dating from 1485.

The red main hall was built in

the Brick Gothic style some time
in the mid- to late 13th century Main entrance

108
 Must See

The Baroque altar was designed

by Andreas Krüger around 1762;
The Gothic (inset) sculpture detail from Andreas
baptismal
Schlüter’s pulpit, completed in 1703
font dates
from 1437.

Main altar

Did You Know?

Home to the best
organ music in the city,
Marienkirche holds
free concerts several
times a week.

The Von Röbel

Family Tomb is a
richly decorated
Mannerist-
Baroque
Andreas Schlüter’s memorial. Crucifixion (1562), by
pulpit is a Michael Rihenstein, depicts
masterpiece carved Christ flanked by Moses
from alabaster. and St John the Baptist

109
 EXPERIENCE MORE
3 4 5
Heiliggeistkapelle DDR Museum Marx-Engels-Forum
 W2 ⌂ Spandauer Strasse  W2 ⌂ Karl-Liebknecht-  W3  Hackescher Markt,
EXPERIENCE Alexanderplatz

1  Hackescher Markt Strasse 1  Hackescher Alexanderplatz @ 100,

@ 100, 200, 300 v M4, Markt @ 100, 245, 300 200, 300
M5, M6 # 10am– 8pm daily (to 10pm
This vast square, which
Sat) ∑ ddr-museum.de
The Chapel of the Holy Spirit stretches from the Neptune
is the only surviving hospital This hands-on museum on fountain to the Spree river
chapel in Berlin. It was built the Spree embankment in the west, was given the
as part of a hospital com- opposite the Berliner Dom inappropriate name Marx-
plex in the second half of (p88) gives an insight into the Engels-Forum (it is not really
the 13th century, and was daily lives of East Germans a forum). Devoid of any
rebuilt in the 15th century. during the era of the DDR surroundings, the only
The hospital was demolished and demonstrates how the features in this square are
in 1825, but the chapel was secret police kept a watchful the statues of Karl Marx and
retained. In 1906, it was eye on the city’s people. Friedrich Engels. The statues,
made into a newly erected Exhibits include a replica added in 1986, are by Ludwig
College of Trade, designed of a typical living room and Engelhart. Due to the ongoing
by Cremer & Wolffenstein. a gleaming example of the extension of an underground
The chapel is a fine example iconic Trabant car. line, the statues were moved
of Gothic brick construction. into a corner.
Its modest interior features a The square’s fate after the
15th-century star-shaped vault. work is completed is still being
The supports under the vault discussed. Some prefer that
are decorated with half-statues the area be built up with small-
of prophets and saints. scale developments, while
others wish it to be recreated
as a public forum.

Did You Know?

Karl Marx studied at
Berlin’s Humboldt
University and became
one of the renowned
Young Hegelians.

The larger-than-
life-size statues
of Marx (seated)
and Engels
at the Marx-
Engels-Forum

110
 The tiered clock tower
of the Rotes Rathaus

7
Neptunbrunnen
 X2 ⌂ Spandauer
Strasse (Rathausvorplatz)
 &   Alexanderplatz, Rotes
Rathaus   Hackescher
Markt @ 100, 200

The magnificent, Neo­Baroque

style Neptune Fountain is a
splendid feature on the main,
axis of the Rotes Rathaus. It
was moved here from the
former Stadtschloss (Berlin
Castle) in 1969, and will return
there when rebuilding of
the castle is complete.
The statue of Neptune in
a dynamic pose at the centre
of the fountain is surrounded
by four figures representing
Germany’s greatest rivers: the
Rhine, the Vistula, the Oder
and the Elbe. The naturalism
of the composition and the
detail, such as the beautiful
rather than the political bronze fishes, crayfish and
6 orientation of the mayors, fishing nets, are noteworthy.
Rotes Rathaus that gave the town hall its
name. The building has a
 X3 ⌂ Rathausstrasse 15
continuous frieze known as
§ 90 26 0  Alexanderplatz
the “stone chronicle”, which

STAY
&  Rotes Rathaus
was added in 1879. It features
 Klosterstrasse @ 100,
scenes and figures from
200, 248 # 9am–6pm
the city’s history and the
Mon–Fri Nikolai Residence
development of its economy
This impressive structure and science. This three-star option
is Berlin’s main town hall; its The Rotes Rathaus was offers accommodation
name means simply “Red badly damaged during right in the heart of the
Town Hall”. Its predecessor World War II and, following quaint pedestrianized
was a much more modest its reconstruction (1951–58), Nikolaiviertel. Service is
building and by the end it became the seat of the friendly and personal.
of the 19th century it was East Berlin authorities. The Though there are no
insufficient to meet the needs West Berlin magistrate was dining facilities on site,
of the growing metropolis. housed in the Schöneberg there is a plethora of
The present building town hall (p241). After the cafés and restaurants
was designed by Hermann reunification of Germany, the located nearby. Visitors
Friedrich Waesemann, and its Rotes Rathaus became the should note that
construction was completed centre of authority, housing parking can be
in 1869. The architect took the offices of the mayor, the a challenge.
his main inspiration from magistrates’ offices and state  X3 ⌂ Am Nussbaum 5
Italian Renaissance municipal rooms. The forecourt sculp­ ∑ nikolai-residence.com
buildings, but the tower is tures were added in 1958. ¡¡¡
reminiscent of Laon cathedral These are by Fritz Cremer
in France. The walls are made and depict Berliners helping
from red brick and it was this, to rebuild the city.

111
 The copper-clad double
spires of the Nikolaikirche

9"
Knoblauchhaus
EXPERIENCE Alexanderplatz

 X3 ⌂ Poststrasse 23
 &  Rotes Rathaus
 Klosterstrasse @ 200,
248 # 10am–6pm Tue–
Sun ∑ stadtmuseum.de

A small townhouse situated

on elegant Poststrasse, the
Knoblauchhaus is the only
Baroque building in Nikolai-
viertel that escaped damage
during World War II. It was
built in 1759 for the Knoblauch
family, which includes the
famous architect, Eduard
Knoblauch. His works include,
among others, the Neue
Synagoge (p130).
The current appearance
of the building is the result of
work carried out in 1835, when
the façade was given a Neo-
Classical look. The ground
floor houses a popular wine
restoration works, removed bar, while the upper floors
8 most of its Baroque modifi- belong to a museum. On the
Nikolaikirche cations and reconstructed first floor it is possible to
the front towers. see the interior of an early
 X3 ⌂ Nikolaikirchplatz
Destroyed by bombing in 19th-century middle-class
 &   Rotes Rathaus
1945, the Nikolaikirche was home, including a beautiful
 Klosterstrasse @ 200,
eventually rebuilt in 1987 and Biedermeier-style room.
248 # 10am–6pm Fri–Sun
shows a permanent exhibit
∑ stadtmuseum.de
on Berlin’s history. The west
The Nikolaikirche is the oldest wall of the southern nave
sacred building of historic contains Andreas Schlüter’s 0"'=
Berlin. The original structure monument to the goldsmith Zille Museum
erected on this site was Daniel Männlich and his wife,
 X3 ⌂ Propststrasse 11
started probably around 1230 which features a gilded relief
 Klosterstrasse  Rotes
when the town was granted portrait of the couple above
Rathaus @  200, 248
its municipal rights. What a mock doorway.
# 11am–6pm Mon–Sat,
remains now of this stone
1–6pm Sun ∑ zille
building is the massive base
museum-berlin.de
of the two-tower façade of the INSIDER TIP
present church, which dates Free Concerts Artist, illustrator and
from c 1300. The presbytery The Nikolaikirche hosts photographer Heinrich
was completed around 1402, free 30-minute classical Zille (1858–1929) was one
but the construction of the concerts every Friday at of Berlin’s best-known per-
main building went on until 5pm. Under the motto sonalities. Renowned for
the mid-15th century. The “Listen – Relax – Reflect” his caricatures of everyday
result was a magnificent Gothic they span works from working-class life in the city,
brick hall-church, featuring a major composers as Zille was partly responsible
chancel with an ambulatory well as chamber music, for Berlin’s image as a loud,
and a row of low chapels. In and often employ the rebellious, snarky, poor,
1877 Hermann Blankenstein, church’s own organ. proud and sometimes down-
who conducted the church right unsavoury capital.

112
Zille’s collection of sketches, During the widening of
drawings, lithographs, pho­ 11 " the Mühlendamm bridge
tographs and cartoons can Ephraim-Palais in 1935 the palace was
now be found in this small demolished, which may
 X3 ⌂ Poststrasse
but charming three­room have been due in some
16  &  Rotes Rathaus
museum, along with a film part to the Jewish origin
 Klosterstrasse
and some family pictures. of its owner. Parts of the
@ 200, 248 # 10am–
It has only minimal infor­ façade, saved from demo­
6pm Tue & Thu–Sun,
mation in English, but the lition, were stored in a
noon–8pm Wed
gist of the artist’s work is easy warehouse in the western
∑ stadtmuseum.de
to appreciate. His scabrously part of the city. In 1983
funny portrayals of beggars, The corner entrance they were sent to East
urchins, labourers and pros­ of the Ephraim­Palais, Berlin and used in the
titutes, finding in them a zest standing at the junc­ reconstruction of the
for life that transcended the tion of Poststrasse and palace, which was erected
poverty of their existence, Mühlendamm, used to a few metres from its
made him immensely popular be called “die schönste Ecke original site. One of the
with Berlin’s underclass. Berlins”, meaning “Berlin’s first­floor rooms features
Nearby you can find a most beautiful corner”. a restored Baroque ceil­
reconstructed (and relocated) This Baroque palace was ing, designed by Andreas
version of one of Zille’s built by Friedrich Wilhelm Schlüter. The ceiling pre­
favourite watering holes, Diterichs in 1766 for Nathan viously adorned Palais
Zum Nussbaum (p115), Veitel Heinrich Ephraim, Wartenberg, which was
whose characters and stories Frederick the Great’s Mint dismantled in 1889.
often informed his work. master and court jeweller. Currently the Ephraim­
Palais houses a branch
of the Stadtmuseum Berlin
Zille was partly responsible for Berlin’s (Berlin City Museum). It
hosts a series of temporary
image as a loud, rebellious, snarky,
exhibitions and events
poor, proud and sometimes downright focused on Berlin’s local
unsavoury capital. artistic and cultural history.

Visitors ascend the

spiral staircase at
the Ephraim-Palais

113
 12
Franziskaner
Klosterkirche
 Y2 ⌂ Klosterstrasse 74
 Klosterstrasse
@ 248

These picturesque ruins

EXPERIENCE Alexanderplatz

surrounded by greenery
are the remains of the early
Gothic Franciscan Friary
Church. The Franciscan friars
settled in Berlin in the early
13th century. Between 1250
and 1265 they built a church
and a friary, which survived
almost unchanged until
1945. The church was a
triple-nave basilica with
an elongated presbytery,
widening into a heptagonal
section that was added to
the structure in around 1300.
Protestants took over the
church after the Reformation
and the friary became a
famous grammar school,
whose graduates included
Prussian Chancellor Otto
von Bismarck.
The friary was so damaged
in World War II that it was
subsequently demolished,
while the church was partially
reconstructed in 2003–4 and
is now a venue for concerts
and exhibitions. The giant
Corinthian capitals, emerging Ruins of the Franziskaner as a building in their own
from the grass near the Klosterkirche right. When the Nikolaiviertel
church ruins, are from a portal (p116) was undergoing
from the Stadtschloss (City renovation it was decided
Palace) (p96). three sides and adjoined the to restore the court of justice
shorter wall of the town hall. as well. The present building
A further storey was added in Poststrasse is a copy of a
in 1485 to provide a hall, to part of the former town
13 which the magnificent lattice hall, erected on a different
Gerichtslaube vaults were added several site from the original one.
decades later, in 1555. Inside it is a restaurant
 X3 ⌂ Poststrasse 28
In 1692, Johann Arnold serving local cuisine.
§ 241 56 97
Nering refurbished the
 &  Rotes Rathaus
town hall in a Baroque style
@ 200, 248
but left the arcades unaltered.
This small building, with its Then, in 1868, the whole
sharply angled arcades, has
had a turbulent history. It
structure was dismantled to
provide space for the new 1621
was built around 1280 as town hall, the Rotes Rathaus
The year the original gin
part of Berlin’s old town hall (p111). The Baroque part was
mill opened on the site
in Spandauer Strasse. The lost forever, but the Gothic
of Berlin’s oldest
original building was a single- arcades and the first-floor
pub: Gaststätte Zur
storey arcaded construction hall were moved to the
letzten Instanz.
with vaults supported by a palace gardens in Babelsberg,
central pillar. It was open on where they were reassembled

114
 completed vaults forced a the magnificent cartouche
14 change in the design. Instead featuring the von Schwerin
Parochialkirche of the intended tower over family crest.
the main structure, a vestibule The adjoining house is the
 Y3 ⌂ Klosterstrasse 67
with a front tower was built. Münze, or Mint, built in 1936.
§ 24 75 95 10
The church was completed Its façade is decorated with
 Klosterstrasse @ 248
in 1703, but then, in 1714, a copy of the frieze that
# 9am–3:30pm Mon–Fri
its tower was enlarged to once adorned the previous
The Parish Church was, at accommodate a carillon. Neo-Classical Mint building
one time, one of the most World War II had a in Werderscher Markt. The
beautiful Baroque churches in devastating effect on the antique style of the frieze
Berlin. Johann Arnold Nering Parochialkirche. The interior was designed by Friedrich
prepared the initial design, was completely destroyed, Gilly and produced in the
with four chapels framing a and the tower collapsed. workshop of J G Schadow.
central tower. Unfortunately, Following stabilization of the
Nering died as construction main structure, the façade
started in 1695. The work was was restored, with reproduced
continued by Martin Grünberg, historic elements set within a 16
but the collapse of the nearly plain interior. In 2016, a replica Stadtmauer
of the former tower top was
 Y3 ⌂ Waisenstrasse
mounted. It bears a new
 &  Alexanderplatz
carillon with 52 bells.
 Klosterstrasse @ 248

The Town Wall that once

EAT 15
Palais Schwerin
surrounded the settlements
of Berlin and Cölln was
erected in the second half
Zum Nussbaum and Münze of the 13th century. The ring
A reconstruction of a of fortifications, built from
16th-century pub,  X3 ⌂ Molkenmarkt 1–3
brick and fieldstone, was
serving traditional  &  Rotes Rathaus
made taller in the 14th
Berlin cuisine including  Klosterstrasse
century. Having finally lost
rollmops, meatballs and @ 248
its military significance by
vegetable pancakes, as These two adjoining houses the 17th century, the wall was
well as local beers. have quite different histories. almost entirely dismantled,
 X3 ⌂ Am Nussbaum 3 The older one, at Molkenmarkt though some small sections
# noon–10pm daily No. 2, is Palais Schwerin, which survive around Waisenstrasse,
§ 242 30 95 was built by Jean de Bodt in having been incorporated
¡¡¡
1704 for a government minister, into other buildings.
Otto von Schwerin. Despite
subsequent remodelling,
Gaststätte Zur the palace kept its beautiful Gaststätte Zur letzten
letzten Instanz sculpted window cornices, the Instanz by the
The oldest pub in Berlin interior wooden staircase and Stadtmauer
has served everyone
from Beethoven to
Angela Merkel. The
menu offers classic
German fare, including
pork knuckle and
Rinderroulade (beef
olive) in a classic
wood-panelled room.
 Y3 ⌂ Waisenstrasse
14–16 # noon–1am
Tue–Sat (to 10pm Sun)
¢ Mon
∑ zurletzteninstanz.com

¡¡¡

115
 A SHORT WALK
NIKOLAIVIERTEL
Distance 1 km (0.5 miles) Did You Know?
Nearest U-Bahn station Märkisches
Many Berlin
EXPERIENCE Alexanderplatz

Museum Time 10 minutes

artists lived in the
St Nicholas’ Quarter, or the Nikolaiviertel, owes Nikolaivertel, including
its name to the parish church whose spires rise Ibsen, Lessing, Kleist
above the small buildings in this part of town. and Hauptmann.
The Nikolaiviertel is full of narrow alleys crammed
with popular restaurants, tiny souvenir shops and
small museums. The district retains the features
The Nikolaikirche
of long-destroyed Alt-Berlin (Old Berlin) and is is now a museum,
usually filled with tourists looking for a place to with its original
rest after an exhausting day of sightseeing – furnishings
particularly in the summer. Almost every other incorporated into
house is occupied by a restaurant, inn, pub or the exhibition
café, so the area is quite lively until late at night. (p112).

The replica arcades and

medieval courthouse of
Gerichtslaube now contain
popular restaurants (p114).

0 metres 75 N
0 yards 75
PO
ST
ST
R
AS
SE

This statue of St George

Slaying the Dragon once
graced a courtyard of
the Stadtschloss.
S
P
R
E
E
U
F
E
R

A Biedermeier-style
room can be found on
the first floor of the
Knoblauchhaus building, START
which is one of the few to
escape World War II One noteworthy feature
damage (p112). of the Ephraim-Palais is its
elegant façade. Inside
A bear, the symbol of there is also an impressive
Berlin, inside a fountain spiral staircase and
in front of Nikolaikirche balustrade (p113).

116
 ALEXANDER-
PLATZ

The historic core of Alt- Locator Map

For more detail see p104
Berlin was reconstructed
under the GDR

The monumental Rotes Rathaus

(Red Town Hall), which once stood
in a densely built-up area, now rises
from an empty square (p111).

FINISH
The Stadthaus, built
in 1911 by Ludwig
Hoffmann, now
houses several
departments of
the Town Hall.
SP ST

JÜDEN
A RA
N S
D S
A E

MM
U
ER

DA

STRAS
EN
HL

SE
MÜ

STR
ALA
UER
STR
ASS
E

The façade of Palais Schwerin

and Münze is decorated with
a Neo-Classical frieze by
Johann Gottfried Schadow,
depicting the development
of metal-processing and
coin-minting (p115).
ROLAN
DUFER

The Hemp Museum

(Hanfmuseum) is a small
museum that specializes
in all aspects of the
hemp plant.

Canal locks
on the Spree

117
Tomb in Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof

NORTH MITTE AND

PRENZLAUER BERG
The area northwest of Alexanderplatz, formerly
called Spandauer Vorstadt, is a historic district
established in the Middle Ages. Some 18th-century
buildings still stand here, though the area has
mainly developed into a lively neighbourhood of
buzzing bars, cafés and designer shops.
The southeastern part of the area is known as
Scheunenviertel (Barn Quarter). In 1672, the Great
Elector moved the hay barns – a fire hazard – out
of the city limits. From that time it became a
refuge for Jews fleeing Russia and Eastern Europe,
and the Spandauer Vorstadt later developed into
Berlin’s affluent Jewish Quarter. To the north is
Prenzlauer Berg, a bohemian hub in the 1990s and
now, after gentrification, a beautiful and pleasant
place to live and visit.

119
 NORTH MITTE AND
PRENZLAUER BERG
Must Sees s Zionskirche
1 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer d Alte and Neue
2 Hamburger Bahnhof
Schönhauser Strasse
f Prater
Experience More
g Alter Jüdischer Friedhof
3 Museum für Naturkunde
h Synagoge Rykestrasse
4 Volksbühne
j Wasserturm
5 Deutsches Theater
k Kulturbrauerei
6 Brecht-Weigel-Gedenkstätte
7 Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof
Eat
8 Friedrichstadtpalast 1 Yam Yam

9 Sammlung Boros 2 Nola’s am Weinberg

0 Oranienburger Strasse 3 Rutz

q Berliner Ensemble 4 Metzer Eck

w Neue Synagoge and

Drink
Centrum Judaicum
5 Buck & Breck
e Hackesche Höfe
6 Becketts Kopf
r Monbijoupark
t Kollwitzplatz Stay
BE
y Jüdischer Friedhof 7 Circus Hotel
R . R .
ST ST
u Sophienkirche 8 Ackselhaus and Blue Home
i Gedenkstätte Grosse

ST

ST
ER

ER
Shop

RE

RE
AU

AU
Hamburger Strasse

LIT

LIT
N

N
ER

ER
ZE

ZE
o Haus Schwarzenberg Museums 9 Goldhahn und Sampson

R
B

ST

S
p Torstrasse 0 Thatchers

RA
SS
Gedenkstätte
Gedenkstätte
q Saint George's

E
a Sophienstrasse Berliner MauerST
Berliner Mauer
English Bookshop R
AC AAM E A
K E ANKL C K E ANKL
RS RS
TR
Sophien- Sophien- TR
Friedhof AS
Friedhof AS
BE BE SE
RG R GS
ST TR
RA AS
SE E
E E
Sch

Sch
HE

HE

S S
AS AS - - Nordbahnhof
Nordbahnhof E E
ER ER TRASS TRASS
R R
ST ST TZ TZ
I D ENNVSA L I D E N S
ID

ID

H H WI SE WI SE
iff

iff

A AT A AT
NO AS NO AS INVAL I
RS RS Z I N ST R Z I N ST R
ES

ES
fah

fah

BE BE
HA HA
BER

BER
G

G
TR

TR
rts

rts

Naturkundemuseum
Naturkundemuseum
AR

AR

Museum Museum
für für
GST

G S T AC
SC

SC
AS

AS

TE

TE

Naturkunde
Naturkunde
ka E

ka

HW

HW

RAS

R AKSE R S
N

N
SE

AR

AR
na

na

ST

ST
CH

CH

- -
N OV

N OV

EL EL
ZE

ZE

SE

S T

E E
RA

RA

EG SE EG SE
l

SS SS
AU

AU
RW

RW

HL AS HL AS T R A RA
A L IS

A L IS

SC TR SC TR S ST
SS

SS
SS

SS
EG

EHG S

H E ST

S S
ES TR

EE

EE

S EBrecht-Weigel-
Brecht-Weigel- I E C K
SS R.

STR

STR

CK
SI .

SE
IS

ST

ST

TIE
SC

AS AS Gedenkstätte
Gedenkstätte
T
CH

AS

AS

TR TR
H

RA

RA

Hamburger
Hamburger
E

NS NS
SE

SE

E E
SS

SS

BahnhofBahnhof A LID A LID Dorotheenstädtischer

Dorotheenstädtischer E
ASS TRASS
E K
E

INV INV ROBERT-KOCH-ROBERT-KOCH-Friedhof Friedhof STR S

TOR TOR
TUC

TUC

PLATZ PLATZ HA HA
Sandkrug- Sandkrug- NN NN
HOL

HOL

brücke brücke OV OV R. R.
ERS ERS ST ST
SKY

SKY

CH E CS E
ST R A S H E ST R A S
SE IEN IEN
LIN LIN
STR

STR

TR.
STS ST
FR IED RIC HS

FR IED RIC HS

Oranienburger A U G U AUG
U
.

Oranienburger
LUISENST

LUISENST
Südpanke

Südpanke

Tor Tor Neue Synagoge

Neue Synago
Charité Charité Humboldt Humboldt
Hauptbahnhof
Hauptbahnhof Universitätsmedizin
Universitätsmedizin
and Centrum
and Centru
UniversitätUniversität
Berlin Berlin Oranienburger JudaicumJudaicum
Oranienburger
Strasse Strasse O Alter
RASSE

RASSE

Deutsches Deutsches
TR .

TR .

O
ANIE R RAN
Oranienburger
Oranienburger Str. Str. IEN
Theater Theater NB U RG BUR
Sammlung Sammlung JOHANNISSTRJOHANNISSTR
. . ER G
.

Boros Boros
STR

STR

. . STR
N ST R N ST R .
MAN MAN
SKY

SKY

WASHINGTON- WASHINGTON-
KA KA SCHU SCHU ZIEG ELST R. ZIEG ELST R.
PLATZ PLATZ TR. TR. Friedrichstadt-
Friedrichstadt- SCHEUNEN-
SCHEUNE
HOL

HOL

PE PE
LL LL AUMS AUMS
E- E- ERB ERB TR. TR.
palast palast
TUC

TUC

S R DT S
UF UF R D T
VIERTEL
VIERTEL
T

IN H A IN H A
UN

UN

ER ER R E
KARLPLATZ KARLPLATZ R E
Berliner Berliner
BERTOLT- BERTOLT- Monbijou- Monbijou- Mon
HARD
TS TR
.
HARD
TS TR
.
EnsembleEnsemble BRECHT- BRECHT- brücke brücke
R E IN R E IN E
ST RA SS IE N ST RA SS
E PLATZ PLATZ p
ALB RASS

ALB RASS

IE N
M AR M AR
ST

ST
SCHI

SCHI

R EC E

R EC E

TIERGARTEN
TIERGARTEN
HT-

HT-
FFBA

FFBA

LUI SEN STR .

LUI SEN STR .

p152 p152 M MM AROUND

AROUND
UNTERUNTER M
UE R

UE R

AM DA
RD ER
AM AM BA
UE AU
e I F F B e R Friedrich- DEN LINDEN
DEN LINDEN
D

IFF
BundestagBundestag M M
SCH r e S CFHE R r eFriedrich-
FE p62 p62
S p S T A G U S p S T Astrasse
GU strasse
Marschallbrücke
Marschallbrücke I C H ICH
RE RE
 HAUSER

HAUSER
S C H I V E L SBCEH I V E L B E 0 metres 0 metres 500 N 500 N

ALLEE

ALLEE
I N E R S ITNRE R S T R
ASSE ASSE

S CHÖN

S CHÖN
0 yards 0 yards 500 500
S EE N S T R A S S E
T R A ÄS N
DÄNENS D
WI WI
CH CH
K O P E N H A GKEONPEERN H A G E N E R Schönhauser
Schönhauser ER ER
STRASSE STRASSE Allee Allee TS TS
TR TR
AS AS
Gethsemanekirche
Gethsemanekirche
SE SE

.
TR

TR
RS

RS
SE SE
S T RLAESI M S T R A S

ALLEE

ALLEE
ST ST

KE

KE
GLEIM G AR AR

NC

NC
GA GA
RD RD

DU

DU
ER ER

USER

USER
ST ST
RA RA

E
SS SS

LE

LE
E E

SCHÖNHA

S PC AH Ö N H A

AL

AL
Friedrich-Friedrich-

EL

EL
Ludwig-Jahn
Ludwig-Jahn

PP

PP
Spor tparkSpor tpark

R.

R.
RA RA
Helmholtz- Helmholtz-

E PA

RST

RST
UM U
ER platz M E R platz

SE

LDE

LDE
SS
ST ST

AS
R. R.
WO

WO

RA

EFE

EFE
R.R
ST

S TS T

. .
LLI

LLI

T RS T R

.
SEN

SEN
ER

NENR

TR
NE

NE

R SN N
EN

M AN
RS

RS

RS
RAU RAU

K E MA
I EH E
ME ME
CH
ST RRA S ST R A S R ST R ST

N CH L I E
TR

ER

KE
Mauerpark Mauerpark

HL C
E SE SE
A L D S WA L D
RA

R. R.
LY

S C LY
AS

RSW Eberswalder Eberswalder

NC
R
SS

SC
VINETA- VINETA- EBE EBE
SE

D
Strasse Strasse ANZ D A
E

IGER NZIGER

DU

DU
PLATZ PLATZ

OD O DPrater Prater STRA S

SSE TRASSE

E
E E Kultur- Kultur-

LE

LE
SS SS ER ER
RA RA BE BE brauerei brauerei PRENZL PRENZL
AUER AUER
SCH

SCH

ST ST

AL

AL
RG RG
ER ER
BERG BERG
SW

SW L I N E

R ER
WO

WO
W E NER

WE

KNA

KNA

E E
UE ASS ASS
SCHÖNHAUSER

SCHÖNHAUSER

NNSTR.

AU NNSTR.
INE

INE

NA ST R ST R
RU

RU

RN
L

LL

ST ST
DTE

DTE

ER BE
PP

PP DER

ACK

ACK

RA RA
MÜ

MÜ

S R EDZ K I- S R EDZ K I-

SE

SE
I

SS SS ST R . ST R .
INE

INE

Bernauer Bernauer
N

ND

AS

S
R

E E
R

STR

STR

RA
KE ER

ER
HUSEMA

HUSEMA

Strasse Strasse
R

ER

ESTR
EE

EE

ST
ER ER
ST

ST

STR

STR

R YL A U

AU
RG RG
ASS

ASS
LL

RA ALL

SBE S B E ARKONA- ARKONA-

RA

RA

SE

SK E
E

EIN EIN
NA

PLATZ PLATZ
TR. TR.
SS

SS

RH RH

ZL
A S SS T

ASS
SS

SS

ARSY
E

AS

RS RS CH CH
Z
IE

IE

SEE SEE
RA
E

RIS RIS
EN

EN
AN AN
AN

AN

TB TB
ST

TR

TR

R GR R R
E RA

THE THE
ST

ST

G UR UR
WÖR WÖR ST ST GE GE
RA

ST

ST

PR

PR
RS RS
ZS

ZS

RA RA
ST

ST

Kollwitzplatz
Kollwitzplatz TR TR
KA

KA
B R U NA S S E

BRUN

SS SS
SS

SS

. .
RA

RA

ER

ER

E E
IT

IT
E

ZIO ZIO
ST

SS

SS

ALLEE

ALLEE
IN

IN

NK NK
SynagogeSynagoge
R

I RC I RC
E

OR

OR

LL

LL

HE HE
NEN

NEN

MA MA
ST ST Rykestrasse
Rykestrasse
CH

CH

RIE RIE
KO

KO

FE F ER . Zionskirche
R. Zionskirche KN KN ST N B U ST N B U
TR. ST R
. HR HR
SC SC AA AA R A RG R A RG
BE BE SS ER SS ER
MER LL LL HW HW JüdischerJüdischer CK
ST
CK
ST E - E -
STRA

STRA

A IN IN R. R.
ER ER
ED
TE
ED
TE Friedhof Friedhof
R R
ST ST BE Wasserturm
BE Wasserturm
E

TR. TR.
SSE

SSE

LF LF
SS

SS

SS S S RA RA OR OR
NEN NEN SS SS
RA

RA

E A A ST ST TE TE
TER TER E E R R
VE VE RA RA Senefelder-
Senefelder-
ST

ST

SS SS ST ST
EG

EG

E E platz platz RA RA
SW

SW

SS SS
E TEUTOBURGERTEUTOBURGER ME ME E E
RG

RG

PLATZ PLATZ TZ TZ
Weinbergs Weinbergs ER ER
BE

BE

Park Park HE HE
RINE

RINE
IN

IN

ST ST IN IN
E

RA RA RI RI
WE

WE

LE

LE

SS SS CH CH
LE

LE

E E
SS

SS

-R -R
CHO

CHO

SA SA
AL

AL

OL OL
R.

SE .

AL

AL
RA

RA
AU N S T R

AR AR LE LE
ST

Rosenthaler
Rosenthaler
ST

ST
R

ER

- - R- R-
EN

ST ST
AC K

Platz Platz
US
NH I N E

RA RA
TIN

Torstrasse
Torstrasse B B SS SS
SE

SE
HA

ER

ER
ERS

HÖ S T

E E
ER

R
S ET R .

RIS

GE
N

R
SCC H R I

AS

AS
RG

AU

AU
HÖ
TR.

St.-Georgen-
St.-Georgen-
UR
CH

CK

CK
BU

TOR TOR
TR

TR
SC

SB

Kirchhof Kirchhof
ER

ER

STR STR
ZL

ZL
RO

RO

SS

ASS ASS
AS

-S

-S
ST

ST
RA

E E
EN

EN
SE

SE

TR

L I N I E N ST R A LSISNEI E N ST R A S S E
R.

R.
ST

UN

UN
S
NT

NT

LINIE L
NSTR INIENSTR
PR

PR

. . Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
RA

RA
HA

HA
SE

SE

KOPPEN KOPPEN
PLATZ PLATZ
RAS

RAS
LE

LE

-B

-B

ASS
E
ASS
E Alte und Alte
Neueund Neue
R

STR STR
O

Schönhauser
Schönhauser
Strasse Strasse
NST

NST

UST UST MUL MUL

TT

TT

AUG AUG AC K
STR
AC K
STR
MAN

MAN

O
ST R .

ST R .

ST E ST. E .
Volksbühne
Volksbühne
.

.
ST R

ST R
G R . HST R A S S E

G R . HST R A S S E

TST
R. Sophien-Sophien-
GIP GIP
INS
TR
INS
TR FRIEDRICHSHAIN
FRIEDRICHSHAIN
GOR

GOR

. .
.

R.
ER

SER

S ST S ST
strasse strasse ROSA- ROSA-
TR
AMB

AMB

R. R.
p142 p142
HA E

TA D T NHA LTE

ST
US

LUXEMBURG- LUXEMBURG-
ÖN ALT

STR EER-

goge
-S
STR. U

E M S X -B E E R

Weinmeister- Weinmeister-
E

-ST S E

T-

PLATZ PLATZ
Ö A
U RG

U RG

HT
ASS

STR.

um
CH

strasse strasse
S
R.

R.
-B

EC
BU T R A

-ST
ER

ER

Sophienkirche
Sophienkirche
NE

m
MAX
SCH

CH

TA D T

KN
MA
RG

RG

BK
S

K A XEMBU

r Jüdischer
Alter Jüdischer
EB

IE
ALMS

ALMS

Friedhof Friedhof Haus Schwarzenberg

Haus Schwarzenberg
I
-L

-L
LUX

MuseumsMuseums
LU
RL

RL

GER ME ME
R .-

R .-

KA

STR HackescheHackesche
Höfe Höfe M H A R D STRM. H A R D STR.
Gedenkstätte
. Gedenkstätte
Grosse Hamburger
Grosse Hamburger K S E N S T RI.R C K S E N S T R .
EN- Strasse Strasse D I R C D

L MONBIJOU- MONBIJOU- Hackescher

Markt
Hackescher
Markt
PLATZ PLATZ
Monbijou-
nbijou- NORTH MITTE
NORTHAND
MITTE AND
park park ALEXANDER-ALEXANDER-
PLATZ PLATZ PRENZLAUER
PRENZLAUER
BERG BERG
ALEXANDER-
ALEXANDER-
PLATZPLATZBahnhof Bahnhof
p102 p102
Alexanderplatz
Alexanderplatz
MUSEUMS-
MUSEUMS-
INSELINSEL SS
TR
.
SS
TR
.

p82 p82 H AU H AU
R AT R AT
 The Window of Memorial
shows those who died
trying to cross the Wall

122
 Must See
1'=

GEDENKSTÄTTE
BERLINER MAUER
 L2 ⌂ Bernauer Strasse 119  Nordbahnhof  Bernauer Strasse
@ M8, M10 v 245, 247 # Opening times vary, see website for details
∑ berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de
The Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Strasse is dedicated to
the people who were killed by the Eastern border guards while
attempting to escape into West Berlin.

Bernauer Strasse
Only small fragments of the Berlin
Wall have survived. One of these, along
Bernauer Strasse, is now an official place of
remembrance. The location of the memorial
here is poignant as the street was cut in two,
resulting in people jumping to the West side
from upper-floor buildings that stood right
on the dividing line, while border guards were
bricking up doors and windows facing west.
Today, the memorial is a grim reminder of the
hardship the division inflicted on the city. It
includes a museum and various installations
along 2 km (1 mile) of the former border.

Structure of the Berlin Wall The Mauerspringer (wall

Initially the Berlin Wall consisted simply jumper) sculpture, added
of rolls of barbed wire. However, these were to the site in 2003
eventually replaced by a 4-m (13-ft) wall,
safeguarded by a second wall made from
reinforced concrete. This second wall was

28
topped with a thick pipe to prevent people
from reaching the top of the Wall with their
fingers. Along the Wall ran what was known
as a “death zone”, an area controlled by guards The number of
with dogs. Where the border passed close to years that the Berlin
houses, the inhabitants were relocated. Along Wall split the city
the entire length of the 55-km (96-mile) wall in two.
there were 293 watchtowers, along with 57
bunkers and, later on, alarms.

GHOST STATIONS
Hidden inside Nordbahnhof station
is a fascinating public exhibition
about “ghost stations”: stations
where trains passed through East
Germany but passengers were
not able to leave the train until it
reached West Berlin again. These
stations were dimly lit places
patrolled by armed East German
border guards and occasionally
used for daring escapes.

123
2"'\=

HAMBURGER
BAHNHOF
 J3 ⌂ Invalidenstrasse 50/51  &  Hauptbahnhof @ 120, 147, 245, M41,
M85 v M5, M8, M10 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu) ∑ smb.museum

At the Museum of Contemporary Art, multimedia exhibits sit alongside

exemplary pieces of modern art to help visitors understand the
development of styles such as Pop Art and Expressionism.

This art museum is situated in a specially modern masters, including Beuys and Warhol,
adapted Neo-Classical building that was and more recent artists such as Kippenberger,
originally constructed in 1847 as a railway Polke and Nauman. It also hosts a selection
station. Following extensive refurbishment by from the world-renowned Friedrich Christian
German architect Josef Paul Kleihues, it was Flick Collection of Art from the second half of
finally opened to the public in 1996. At night, the 20th century. Now film, video, music and
the faÇade is lit up by a neon light installation design sit alongside painting and sculpture,
by American artist Dan Flavin. The museum resulting in one of the best modern and
has an ever-changing rotation of artworks by contemporary art museums in Europe.
 Must See

Did You Know?

The museum has works
by German photographers
such as Bernd and Hilla
Becher, Thomas Ruff
and Andreas Gursky.

The museum’s impressive

Neo­Classical façade

Mao (1972), a well­known

portrait by Andy Warhol that
elevated the Chinese Communist
leader to the rank of pop icon

Volk Ding Zero (2009), a

3­m­ (9­ft­) high bronze
sculpture by Georg
Baselitz, was inspired
by African, German and
Polish folk art

GALLERY GUIDE
All works on display at
the Hamburger
Bahnhof are temp­
orary and exhibits
shown here may not
necessarily be on
display. The Rieck­
hallen shows selected
works from the
Friedrich Christian
Flick Collection in
rotation. The main
hall is used for
unusual installations
and occasional
fashion shows.

125
 EXPERIENCE MORE
best­preserved Tyrannosaurus Archaeopteryx lithographica,
3"-= rex skeleton and the world’s thought to be the prehistoric
Museum für largest original dinosaur link between reptiles and
Naturkunde skeleton, which is housed in birds, complete this fascina­
the glass­roofed courtyard. ting display. The adjacent
EXPERIENCE North Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg

 J3 ⌂ Invalidenstrasse 43
The colossal 23­m­ (75­ft­) rooms feature countless
 Naturkundemuseum
long and 12­m­ (39­ft­) high colourful shells and butter­
@ 147, 245, M41, M85
Brachiosaurus brancai was flies, as well as taxidermy.
v M5, M8, M10 # 9:30am–
discovered in Tanzania in 1909 Particularly popular are the
6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm
by a German fossil­hunting dioramas – scenes of mounted
Sat, Sun & public hols
expedition. Six other smaller animals set against the back­
¢ Mon ∑ museumfuer
reconstructed dinosaur ground of their natural habi­
naturkunde.berlin
skeletons and a replica of tat. A favourite is Bobby the
Berlin’s Natural History the fossilized remains of an Gorilla, who was brought
Museum is one of the world’s
biggest, its collection num­
bering over 30 million exhibits. MAX REINHARDT (1873–1943)
Occupying a Neo­Renaissance This actor and director became famous as one of the
building completed in 1889, 20th century’s greatest theatre reformers. He worked
the museum has been oper­ in Berlin, first as an actor in the Deutsches Theater, and
ating for over a century, and then from 1905 as its director. As well as setting up the
despite several periods of Kammerspiele, he produced plays for the Neues Theater
renovation has maintained am Schiffbauerdamm (renamed the Berliner Ensemble)
its old­fashioned atmosphere. and the Schumann Circus (later to become the Friedrich­
The highlights of the stadtpalast). His experimental productions of classic and
museum include Europe’s modern works brought him worldwide fame. Forced to
emigrate because of his Jewish origins, he left Germany
in 1933 for the United States, where he died in 1943.
The Dinosaur Hall at the
Museum für Naturkunde

126
to Berlin Zoo in 1928 as a
2-year-old and lived there
until 1935. There is also a
fine collection of minerals
and meteorites.

4
Volksbühne
 N3 ⌂ Rosa-Luxemburg-
Platz § 24 06 55  Rosa-
Luxemburg-Platz @ 100,
142, 200 v M8

Founded during the early

years of the 20th century,
the People’s Theatre owes its
existence to the efforts of the
100,000 members of the Freie 1933, wrote plays for it; after Dorotheenstädtischer
Volksbühne (Free People’s World War II he became Friedhof memorial to
Theatre Society). The original the director of the Berliner Johann Gottlieb Fichte
theatre was built in 1913, a Ensemble (p129), whose
time when the Scheunen- first venue was here at
viertel district was undergoing the Deutsches Theater. apartment, and after Brecht’s
rapid redevelopment. During death moved to the ground
the 1920s the theatre became floor. She also founded an
famous thanks to the director archive of Brecht’s works,
Erwin Piscator (1893–1966), 6"' which is located on the
who later achieved great Brecht-Weigel- second floor of the building.
acclaim at the Metropol- Gedenkstätte
Theater on Nollendorfplatz.
 K3 ⌂ Chausseestrasse
Destroyed during World
War II, the theatre was rebuilt
125 § 200 57 18 44 7
 Naturkundemuseum,
in the early 1950s to a design Dorotheenstädtischer
Oranienburger Tor @ 147,
by Hans Richter. Now one of Friedhof
245 v 12, M6 # 10am–
the city’s most important
3:30pm Tue & Sat, 10–11am  K3 ⌂ Chausseestrasse
cultural spots, it often stages
Wed & Fri, 10am–6:30pm 126 § 461 72 79
controversial performances.
Thu, 11am–6pm Sun  Naturkundemuseum,
Oranienburger Tor @ 142,
The house where Bertolt
245, 247 v 12, M6, M8,
Brecht and his wife, the
5"' actress Helene Weigel, lived
# 8am–sunset daily
Deutsches Theater and worked is now a memorial. This small cemetery,
Brecht, one of the greatest established in 1763, is the
 K4 ⌂ Schumannstrasse
playwrights of the 20th cen- final resting place of many
13A § 28 44 10  &  Fried-
tury, was associated with famous Berlin citizens,
richstrasse  Oranien-
Berlin from 1920, but emi- including Bertolt Brecht
burger Tor @ 147 v 12, M1
grated in 1933. After the war, and Helene Weigel. Many
∑ deutschestheater.de/en
his left-wing views made him of the monuments are
This theatre building first an attractive potential resident outstanding works of art,
opened in 1850 as the of the newly created German coming from the workshops
Friedrich-Wilhelm Städtisches Socialist state. Lured by the of prominent Berlin archi-
Theater, and in 1883, following promise of his own theatre, tects, including Karl Friedrich
reconstruction, it was renamed he returned to Berlin in 1948 Schinkel (p28) and Johann
Deutsches Theater. It was with Weigel. He directed the Gottfried Schadow, who are
here that Max Reinhardt Berliner Ensemble until his both buried here. A tranquil,
began his career as an actor, death, focusing mainly on tree-filled oasis, the cemetery
before becoming director productions of his own plays. is reached via a narrow path,
from 1905 until 1933. He lived in the first-floor leading from the street
Another famous figure apartment here from 1953 between the wall of the
associated with the theatre until he died in 1956. Weigel French Cemetery and the
was Bertolt Brecht who, until lived in the second-floor Brecht-Weigel-Gedenkstätte.

127
EXPERIENCE North Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg

used as a circus ring. In 1918

8 it became the Grosse Schau-
Friedrichstadtpalast spielhaus, or Grand Playhouse,

DRINK  K4 ⌂ Friedrichstrasse

107  Oranienburger
opening in 1919 with a
memorable production of
Aeschylus’s The Oresteia,
Strasse, Friedrichstrasse
Buck & Breck directed by Max Reinhardt
 Oranienburger Tor @ 147
This hipster bar is (p126). The old building was
v 12, M1 ∑ palast.berlin
cunningly disguised as extraordinary, its central
an art gallery. If you can Multicoloured glass tiles and a dome supported by a forest
find it, and if there’s pink, plume-shaped neon sign of columns and topped with
room, you'll be make up the gaudy but eye- Expressionist, stalactite-like
rewarded with catching façade of the decoration. An equally
impeccable drinks. Friedrichstadt Palace. Built in fantastical interior provided
 M2 ⌂ Brunnenstrasse the early 1980s, this massive seating for 5,000 spectators.
177 # Opening times theatre complex specializes
vary, see website in spectacular, Vegas-style
for details shows involving gigantic casts
∑ buckandbreck.com and expensive special effects. 9"'
Nearly 2,000 seats are Sammlung Boros
Becketts Kopf arranged around a huge
 K4 ⌂ Reinhardtstrasse
Find the wrinkled podium, used by turns as a
20  &  Oranienburger
visage of Mr Beckett circus arena, a swimming pool
Tor @ 147 v M1, M12
staring from a dark and an ice rink. A further huge
# 3–8pm Thu, 10am–8pm
window, ring the stage is equipped with every
Fri–Sun ∑ sammlung-
bell and enter technical facility. There is also
boros.de
Prenzlauer Berg’s a small cabaret theatre with
best cocktail spot. seats for 240 spectators. This former air-raid bunker,
 N1 ⌂ Pappelallee 64 The original and much- built by architect Karl Bonatz,
# 7pm–2am Mon–Thu & loved Friedrichstadtpalast is an intriguing gallery
Sun (to 4am Fri & Sat) suffered bomb damage location. The bunker has
∑ becketts-kopf.de during World War II and was a chequered history; once
replaced with the existing used as a POW prison by the
version. Built as a market hall, Red Army, it later became a
the earlier building was later warehouse, then in the 1990s

128
 Michel Majerus on show at
the Sammlung Boros Did You Know?
Bertolt Brecht’s unique
the neighbourhood, it is worth style of epic theatre
looking out for a number of influenced directors
interesting buildings, such as across western Europe
the one at Oranienburger and the US.
Strasse No. 71–2, built by
Christian Friedrich Becherer in
1789 for Germany's Great
National Masonic Lodge. Brecht’s The Threepenny
Opera. The building was
destroyed during World War II
and subsequently restored
11 with a much simpler exterior,
Berliner Ensemble but its Neo-Baroque interior
survived intact.
 K4 ⌂ Bertolt-Brecht-
The theatre returned
Platz 1 § 28 40 81 55
to prominence in 1954
 &  Friedrichstrasse
with the arrival of the Berliner
@ 147 v 12, M1
Ensemble under the director-
Designed by Heinrich Seeling ship of Brecht and his wife,
and completed in 1892, actress Helene Weigel. The
this theatre has seen many move from its former home,
changes in Berlin’s cultural the Deutsches Theater (p127),
life. First known as the Neues to the new venue was
it was a popular club. In Theater am Schiffbauerdamm, celebrated by staging the
2003 art collector Christian it soon became famous for world premiere of Brecht’s
Boros bought the building staging important premieres The Caucasian Chalk Circle.
and converted it into a gallery and for its memorable pro- After Brecht’s death, Weigel
space. It houses the Boros ductions by Max Reinhardt. took over the running of
Collection of modern art. No These included Shakespeare’s the theatre, maintaining
more than 12 guests can visit A Midsummer Night’s Dream in its innovative tradition.
at one time and advance 1905, which, for the first time,
online registration is required. used a revolving stage and real
trees as part of the set. In 1928 Samuel Beckett’s
the theatre presented the Endgame, staged by
world premiere of Bertolt the Berliner Ensemble
10
Oranienburger
Strasse
 K3  Oranienburger
Strasse, Hackescher Markt
 Oranienburger Tor
v 12, M1, M4, M5, M6

Oranienburger Strasse is home

to numerous cafés, restau-
rants, bars and clubs. The
district has traditionally been
a centre for alternative culture,
and was home to the famous
state-sponsored Tacheles
centre for the arts, which was
previously occupied by artist
squatters. The Tacheles centre
has since closed, but its legacy
lives on with several excellent
art galleries operating in this
area. As you stroll around
Oranienburger Strasse and

129
 was Berlin’s largest synagogue
12 " until the night of 9–10
Neue Synagoge and November 1938, when it
Centrum Judaicum was partially destroyed in
the course of the infamous
 L3 ⌂ Oranienburger
Kristallnacht (Night of Broken
Strasse 28–30  Oranien­
Glass), when thousands of
burger Strasse v M1, M5
synagogues, cemeteries,
# Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm
Jewish homes and shops were
EXPERIENCE North Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg

Mon–Fri ,10am–7pm Sun);

looted and burned by soldiers
Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm Sun–
and Nazi supporters. The
Thu , 10am–3pm Fri)
building was damaged further
¢ Jewish hols ∑ centrum
by Allied bombing in 1943 and
judaicum.de 
was finally demolished in
The building of the New Syna­ 1958 by government author­
gogue, by architect Eduard ities. Reconstruction began in
Knoblauch, was completed 1988 and the stunning new
in 1866. The design, a highly building was completed with
sophisticated response to the due ceremony in 1995.
asymmetrical shape of the Adjoining the New Syna­
plot of land, used a narrow goge, the Centrum Judaicum
façade flanked by a pair of (Jewish Centre) occupies the
towers and crowned with a former premises of the Jewish
dome containing a round community council, and
vestibule. Small rooms contains a library, archives
opened off the vestibule, and a research centre devoted
including an anteroom and to the history and cultural
two prayer rooms – one large heritage of the Jews of Berlin.
and one small. The two towers The Centre also uses restored
opened onto a staircase rooms of the Neue Synagoge
leading to the galleries, and to exhibit various materials
the main hall had space for relating to the local Jewish
around 3,000 worshippers. community, which included Triple domes of the
An innovative use of iron in one of the greatest of all Neue Synagoge
the construction of the roof Jewish thinkers and social
and galleries put the syna­ activists, Moses Mendelssohn.
gogue at the forefront of Be aware that security is
19th­century civil engineering. strict at both the Synagoge 13
This fascinating structure and the Centrum Judaicum. Hackesche Höfe
 M4 ⌂ Rosenthaler
Strasse 40–41
MOSES MENDELSSOHN (1729–86)
 Hackescher Markt
One of the greatest German philosophers of the  Weinmeisterstrasse
18th century, Moses Mendelssohn arrived in Berlin in v M1, M4, M5, M6
1743 and was a central figure in the Jewish
struggle for citizenship rights. About Running from Oranienburger
50 years later the first Jewish Strasse and Rosenthaler up
family was granted full civic as far as Sophienstrasse, the
rights; however, it was not Hackesche Höfe (Höfe
until the Emancipation Edict means “courtyard”) is a
of 1812 that Jewish men huge, early 20th­century
finally became full citizens. complex. It is made up
The grandfather of of an intricate series of
composer Felix nine interconnecting
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, courtyards surrounded
he is immortalized in the by tall and beautifully
drama Nathan der proportioned buildings.
Weise (Nathan the The development dates
Wise) by his friend from 1906, and was
Gotthold Ephraim designed by Kurt
Lessing. Berendt and August
Endell, both of
whom were

130
 STAY
outstanding exponents of the Circus Hotel
German Secession style. 14
This eco-friendly hotel
Damaged during World Monbijoupark offers comfortable
War II, Hackesche Höfe has rooms, a decent
 L4 ⌂ Oranienburger
been restored to its original in-house bar and
Strasse  Oranienburger
splendour. The first courtyard restaurant and friendly
Strasse, Hackescher Markt
is especially attractive, service, all right
v M1, M4, M5, M6
featuring glazed facings with on buzzy
geometric designs decorated Little Monbijou (“My Jewel”) Rosenthaler Platz.
in fabulous colours. A whole Park, between Oranienburger
 M3
range of restaurants, bars, Strasse (p129) and the Spree
⌂ Rosenthaler Strasse 1
art galleries, shops and river, was once the grounds of ∑ circus-berlin.de
restaurants can be found the Monbijou Palace. Damaged
here, as well as offices and by bombing during World ¡¡¡
apartments on the upper War II, the ruined palace was
floors. The complex also dismantled in 1960. Ackselhaus
has a small theatre, the A rare green space in this and Blue Home
Chamäleon, specializing in part of the city, the well-kept This discreet hotel is set
contemporary circus shows. park is a pleasant place to inside a beautifully
For many Berliners the relax. It features a marble restored 19th-century
Hackesche Höfe has become bust of the poet Adelbert von property, and has
something of a cult spot, and Chamisso, and there is also individually designed
for visitors it is definitely a an open-air swimming pool rooms and suites, plus a
sight not to be missed. for children. pleasant garden.
 O2 ⌂ Belforter
Strasse 21
For many Berliners the Hackesche Höfe ∑ ackselhaus.de
has become something of a cult spot, ¡¡¡
and for visitors it is definitely a sight
not to be missed.

131
 The Baroque
KÄTHE KOLLWITZ tower of the
One of Germany’s Sophienkirche
most famous artists,
Käthe Kollwitz created
poignant works –
charcoal drawings,
lithographs, woodcuts –
that embraced stark
EXPERIENCE North Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg

but timeless themes

such as poverty and
death, hunger and war.
During her life, Kollwitz
campaigned ardently
against war, and the
suffering of women
and children in par-
ticular. Her house at
Kollwitzstrasse 56
was bombed in 1943,
destroying many prints
and drawings. A plaque
marks the new house.

15
Kollwitzplatz
 N2  Senefelderplatz

This green square is named

after the German artist
Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945),
who once lived nearby. It
was here that the socially
engaged painter and sculptor
observed and painted the Did You Know?
daily hardships of the
Anna Luise Karsch, the
working­class people living
first German woman to live
in overcrowded tenements. the author David Friedländer
by her pen, is commem-
One of her sculptures stands (1750–1834). The lapidarium,
orated on the church’s
on the square, now the social built in 2005, displays rescued
exterior wall.
hub of the district, with a gravestones from this and
Thursday organic farmers’ other historic Jewish
market, cool bars, restaurants cemeteries in Berlin.
and shops that extend into on Schönhauser Allee, but
the surrounding streets. the serene atmosphere, with
Käthe Kollwitz’s work can be tall trees and thick under­
seen at the Käthe­Kollwitz­ growth, is a welcome oasis. 17
Museum (p216). The cemetery was laid out Sophienkirche
in 1827, though the oldest
 M3 ⌂ Grosse Hamburger
gravestone dates back to the
Strasse 31 § 308 79 20
14th century. It was Berlin’s
16 second­largest Jewish
 Hackescher Markt
 Weinmeisterstrasse
Jüdischer Friedhof cemetery after the Jüdischer
v M1, M4, M5, M6
Friedhof Weissensee (p235).
 N2 ⌂ Schönhauser Allee # 1–6pm Mon–Sat
Among the many
22–25 § 441 98 24
prominent Berliners resting A narrow passageway and a
 Senefelderplatz # 8am–
here are the painter Max picturesque gate take you
4pm Mon–Thu, 7:30am–1pm
Liebermann (p245); Giacomo through to this small Baroque
Fri ¢ Sat, Sun & public hols
Meyerbeer, the composer and church. Founded in 1712 by
This small Jewish Cemetery musical director of the Staats­ Queen Sophia Luisa, the wife
is hidden behind thick walls oper Unter den Linden; and of Frederick I of Prussia, this

132
 elderly which, during World
War II, served as a detention
centre for many thousands
of Berlin Jews who were
condemned to death in
the camps at Auschwitz
and Theresienstadt.
Until the years leading
up to World War II, Grosse
Hamburger Strasse was one
of the main streets of Berlin’s
Jewish quarter. It was home
to several Jewish schools, the
old-people’s home and the
city’s oldest Jewish cemetery,
established in 1672.
At No. 27 stands a Jewish
school founded in 1778 by
Moses Mendelssohn (p130).
Rebuilt in 1906, the building
was reopened as a Jewish
secondary school in 1993. The
empty space once occupied
by house No. 15–16, destroyed
by World War II bombing,
is now an installation, The
Missing House by Christian
Boltanski, with plaques
recording the names and
professions of the former
inhabitants of the house.

was the first parish church survived in the small graveyard

of the newly developed surrounding the church.
Spandauer Vorstadt area,
which had been growing
steadily since the Middle
Ages. Johann Friedrich Grael 18
designed the tower, which Gedenkstätte Grosse
was built between 1729 and Hamburger Strasse
1735. In 1892 the building
 M4 ⌂ Grosse Hamburger
was extended to include
Strasse  Hackescher
a presbytery, though the
Markt v 12, M1, M4, M5, M6
church still retains its ori-
ginal Baroque character. An otherworldly group of
A modest, rectangular figures in bronze stands on
structure, Sophienkirche is Grosse Hamburger Strasse,
typical of its period, with the bearing witness to the exter-
tower adjoining the narrower mination of the street’s Jewish
side elevation. The interior community. On this spot once
still contains a number of stood a Jewish home for the
its original 18th-century fur-
nishings, including the pulpit
and the font.
Several gravestones dating Haunting figure from
from the 18th century, have the Jewish memorial

133
 (Silent Heroes Memorial
TOP
SHOPPING 19 " ' =
5
Centre) commemorates
AREAS IN Haus Schwarzenberg people who risked their lives
DOWNTOWN Museums to hide or rescue persecuted
MITTE Jews. One such man was Otto
 M4 ⌂ Rosenthaler
Weidt, a German entrepreneur
Strasse 39  Hackesher
Hackescher Höfe who saved a number of his
Markt  Weinmeister­
Renovated Art Nouveau blind, Jewish employees at his
strasse @ N2, N5, N42
shopping complex. workshop, which is now the
v M1, M5 ∑ haus­
Museum Blindenwerkstatt
schwarzenberg.org
Alte Schönhauser Otto Weidt (Museum Otto
Strasse The Haus Schwarzenberg Weidt’s Workshop for the
Extension of complex is a cool and grungy Blind). It displays photographs
Schönhauser Allee. hangover from the early and back-stories of Weidt, his
1990s. Its crumbling, postwar family and his workers, and
Neue Schönhauser façades are splattered with visitors can still see the room
Strasse colourful street art – some where Jewish families were
Small street packed by famous local artists like hidden. The third museum,
with boutiques, cafés El Bocho and Miss Van. Its the Anne-Frank-Zentrum,
and eateries. courtyard consciously eschews offers an engaging and
high-end boutiques and cafés eclectic look at the famous
Mulackstrasse in favour of an edgy bar, a teenager’s life.
Elegant side street, street-art shop and gallery
home to many local and the Monsterkabinett: a Monsterkabinett
design stores. collection of moving mech- " # Times vary, see
anical monsters built by the website for details
Steinstrasse owners, a nonprofit artist ∑ monsterkabinett.de
Parallel to Mulack- collective. The complex also
strasse, with many hosts a trio of notable, small Gedenkstätte Stille Helden
shops and cafés. museums that explore local " # 10am–8pm daily
resistance to the Nazis. The ∑ gedenkstaette-stille-
Gedenkstätte Stille Helden helden.de

134
 HIDDEN GEM
Café Cinema, a legendary
Secret
bohemian meeting place
Courtyards
in Haus Schwarzenburg
Hidden away from the
main street, the main
Although it is a busy, noisy door of Sophienstrasse
and sometimes polluted No 21 leads into a row of
street, Torstrasse has its lush interior courtyards
charms and has been almost that extend all the way
completely transformed up to Gipsstrasse.
from a largely working-
class bohemian area into
a more appealing location, 18th-century Neo-Classical
particularly for young buildings are home to a
urbanites. The 19th-century number of different arts
residential buildings lining and crafts workshops, cosy
the street have been gen- bars, unusual boutiques,
trified to make way for cool a puppet theatre and
bars, trendy cafés, gourmet interesting art galleries.
restaurants, art galleries One building with a
and fashion shops. “Soto”, particularly eventful history
the area south of Torstrasse, is Sophienstrasse No. 18.
has the highest concen- The house was erected in
tration of independent 1852, although its striking
designers and brand and picturesque terracotta
outfitters in the city. double doorway dates from
the time of its extensive
restoration, undertaken in
1904 by Joseph Franckel
21 " and Theodor Kampfmeyer
Museum Blindenwerk­ Sophienstrasse on behalf of the Crafts
statt Otto Weidt Society. Founded in 1844,
 M3  Hackescher Markt
" # 10am–8pm daily the Crafts Society moved
 Weinmeisterstrasse
∑ museum-blindenwerk its headquarters to
v M1, M4, M5, M6
statt.de Sophienstrasse in 1905.
The area around Sophien- On 14 November 1918 the
Anne­Frank­Zentrum strasse and Gipsstrasse was very same house was used
" # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun first settled at the end of the as the venue for the first
∑ annefrank.de 17th century. In fact, Sophien- meeting of the Spartacus
strasse was once the main League, later to become
street of Spandauer Vorstadt the Communist Party
(p119). The area underwent of Germany.
20 extensive restoration during
Torstrasse the 1980s that was designed
to preserve its small-town
 M3  Oranienburger
character. Today, the narrow
Tor, Rosenthaler Platz,
lanes and three-storey
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
buildings are reminiscent
@ 142 v M1, M8
of Prague’s Old Town. It was
Formerly a customs road one of the first parts of East
and Berlin’s northern border Berlin in which renovation
around 1800, Torstrasse is was chosen in preference
now a main thoroughfare to large-scale demolition
connecting Prenzlauer and redevelopment. Now
Allee and Friedrichstrasse. these modest but charming

“Soto”, the area south of Torstrasse,

has the highest concentration of
independent designers and brand Colourful residential
outfitters in the city. buildings on Torstrasse

135
 22
Zionskirche
 M2 ⌂ Zionskirchplatz
§ 449 21 91  Senefelder­
platz, Rosenthaler Platz
v 12, M1 #  Opening times
vary, call ahead

Located in the square named

after it, Zionskirchplatz, this
Protestant church was built
between 1866 and 1873 – a
tranquil oasis in the middle
of this lively district. Both
the square and the church
have always been centres of
political opposition. During
the Third Reich, resistance
groups against the Nazi
regime congregated at
the church, and when the
Communists were in power
in East Germany, the alterna­
tive “environment library”
(an information and
documentation centre) was
established here. Church
and other opposition groups
active here played a decisive
role in the transformation of
East Germany in 1989–90.

23
Alte and Neue
Schönhauser Strasse
 N3  Hackescher Markt
 Weinmeisterstrasse
v M1

Alte Schönhauser Strasse is

one of the oldest streets in
the Spandauer Vorstadt
district, running from the
centre of Berlin to Pankow
and Schönhausen. In the
18th and 19th centuries this
was a popular residential area
among wealthy merchants.
During World War II, however,
its proximity to the neigh­
bouring Jewish district of
Scheunenviertel (p140),
devastated by the Nazis,
decreased its popularity
considerably.
For a long time, bars, small
factories, workshops and
Soaring tower of retail shops were the hallmark
the Neo-Romantic of this neighbourhood. Small
Zionskirche private shops survived longer
 Outside dining at Nola’s
am Weinberg

here than in most parts of

Berlin, and the largely original
EAT
houses maintained much of Yam Yam Rutz
their pre-1939 atmosphere. Popular with local A star in Berlin’s gourmet
Much has changed, however, fashionistas, this scene , Rutz is a Michelin-
since the fall of the Berlin canteen-style restaurant starred venue offering
Wall. Some of the houses uses organic Korean dishes based on local
have been restored, and vegetables and hot spices recipes served with a
many old businesses have for owner Sumi Ha’s cha creative twist.
been replaced by fashionable chang myun and bibimbap.  K3 ⌂ Chausseestrasse 8
shops, restaurants and bars,  M3 ⌂ Alte Schönhauser # Opening times vary, see
making it one of the most Strasse 6 # Noon–11pm website for details
expensive retail areas in the Mon–Thu (to midnight Fri & ∑ rutz-restaurant.de
city. Throughout the district, Sat), 1pm–11pm Sun
¡¡¡
the old and the new now ∑ yamyam-berlin.de
stand side by side. One ¡¡¡
Metzer Eck
poignant example is at
In its heyday, this
Neue Schönhauser Strasse
Nola’s am Weinberg traditional eatery was a
No. 14. This interesting old
This Swiss-themed meeting point for
house in the German Neo-
restaurant serves fondue Prenzlauer Berg’s GDR
Renaissance style was built
as well as risotto dishes bohemian luminaries.
in 1891 to a design by Alfred
and excellent brunches. It still has oodles of
Messel. The first-floor rooms
It has a lovely summer character and serves
were home to the first public
terrace overlooking the cheap, simple dishes like
reading room in Berlin, while
pretty am Weinberg park. meatballs and Bockwurst.
on the ground floor was a
Volkskaffeehaus, a soup  M2 ⌂ Veteranen  N2 ⌂ Metzer Strasse 33
Strasse 9 # 10am–1am # 4pm–1am Mon–Fri, 6pm–
kitchen, with separate
daily ∑ nola.de 1am Sat ∑ metzer-eck .de
rooms for men and women.
Here the poor of the neigh- ¡¡¡ ¡¡¡
bourhood could get a free
bowl of soup and a cup of
ersatz (imitation) coffee.

137
 grave of the philosopher
24 25 Moses Mendelssohn (p130),
Prater Alter Jüdischer erected in 1990 by members
Friedhof of the Jewish community.
 N1 ⌂ Kastanienallee 7–9
§ 448 56 88  Ebers­  M4 ⌂ Grosse Hamburger
walder Strasse v 12, M1 Strasse  Hackescher

Prater has been one of Berlin’s

Markt v M1 26
best-known entertainment The Old Jewish Cemetery was Synagoge
EXPERIENCE North Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg

institutions for more than a established in 1672 and, until Rykestrasse

century. The building, along 1827 when it was finally
 O2 ⌂ Rykestrasse 53
with its quiet courtyard, was declared full, it provided the
§ 88 02 81 47  Senefelder­
constructed in the 1840s and resting place for over 12,000
platz
later became the city’s oldest Berliners. After this date Jews
and largest beer garden. It were buried in cemeteries in This synagogue is one of the
now houses a restaurant, Schönhauser Allee (p132) and few reminders of old Jewish
serving Berlin specialities, in Herbert-Baum-Strasse. The life in Berlin, and one of the
and stages a variety of pop, Alter Jüdischer Friedhof was few in Germany left almost
rock and folk concerts and destroyed by the Nazis in intact during the Nazi regime.
theatre shows. 1943, and in 1945 the site Built in 1904, the red-brick
was turned into a park. synagogue has a basilica-like
Embedded in the original nave with three aisles and
cemetery wall, a handful of certain Moorish features. Due
Baroque masebas (or tomb- to its location inside a huge
Did You Know? stones) continue to recall the tenement area, Nazi SA troops
past. A maseba stands on the did not set it on fire during
The periphery of the
cemetery is reserved for
the upper classes; the
overgrown centre for
the less well off.

138
 This synagogue is one of the few
reminders of old Jewish life in Berlin,
and one of the few in Germany left
almost intact during the Nazi regime.

the Kristallnacht pogrom the heart of Prenzlauer Berg.

on 9 November 1938, when It was here that some of the
hundreds of other synagogues windmills, once typical in
were razed to the ground. The Prenzlauer Berg, produced
synagogue welcomes visitors flour for the city’s population.
to its public services. The distinctive brick water
tower was built in 1874 by
Wilhelm Vollhering and
served as a reservoir for the
27 country’s first running water
Wasserturm system. In the 1930s, the
basement served as a make-
 O2 ⌂ Knaackstrasse/
shift jail, where Nazi SA troops
Belforter Strasse
held and tortured Communist
 Senefelderplatz
opponents. This dark period The Wasserturm, with
The unofficial symbol of this is marked by a plaque. its brickwork cladding
district is a 30-m- (100-ft-)
high water tower, standing
high on the former mill hill in
28

SHOP
Kulturbrauerei
 N1 ⌂ Schönhauser Allee
36–39  Eberswalder
Goldhahn und
Strasse v 12, M1, M10
Sampson
# 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to
This charming gourmet
8pm Thu) ∑ hdg.de
food store stocks high-
This vast Neo-Gothic, indust- end products and a good
rial red-and-yellow-brick selection of cookbooks.
building was once Berlin’s  O1 ⌂ Dunckerstrasse 9
most famous brewery, Schult- # 8am–8pm Mon–Fri,
heiss, built by architect Franz 9am–8pm Sat
Schwechten in 1889–92. Now ∑ goldhahnund
sampson.de
housing the Kulturbrauerei
(culture brewery), the huge
complex with several court- Thatchers
yards has been revived as a A popular women’s
cultural and entertainment clothing store,
centre, with concert venues, Thatchers sells dresses,
restaurants and cafés, and a skirts and accessories.
cinema, as well as artists’  N1 ⌂ Kastanienallee
ateliers. A popular Christmas 21 # 11am–7pm Mon–Sat
∑ thatchers.de
market is also held here
in December.
Inside the Kulturbrauerei, Saint George's
the Museum Alltagsgeschichte English Bookshop
der DDR (Museum of Everyday Book lovers will relish
Life in the GDR) features both the range of popular
permanent and temporary literature sold here.
exhibitions on the former  O2 ⌂ Wörther
East Germany. Don’t miss Strasse 27 # 11am–8pm
the reconstructed flat, or Mon–Fri (to 7pm Sat)
∑ saintgeorges
the “Trabi-Tent”, a typically
bookshop.com
Leafy avenue in ingenious East German solu-
the Alter Jüdischer tion to a caravan holiday with
Friedhof no caravan.

139
 A SHORT WALK
SCHEUNENVIERTEL
Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest S-Bahn
station Oranienburger Strasse Time 15 minutes
EXPERIENCE North Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg

From the 17th century to World War II, crumble for nearly 50 years after the double
Scheunenviertel lay at the heart of Berlin’s devastations of the Nazis and Allied bombing,
large Jewish district. During the 19th century the district enjoyed a huge revival after the fall
the community flourished, its prosperity of the Berlin Wall, and a walk in this area will
reflected in grand buildings such as the Neue reveal cafés and bars that are home to some of
Synagoge, which opened in 1866. Left to the city’s liveliest nightlife.

E
SS
RA
ST
KY
LS

START
O
CH
TU

The Postfuhramt was

used originally as
stables for the horses
that delivered the post.
Its ceramic-clad façade
resembles a palace more
than a post office and
there are plans to turn it
into a hotel.

Sparkling with gold,

the restored Neue
Today the lavishly
Synagoge is used
restored yards of
for services (p130).
Heckmann-Höfe are OR
the most elegant in AN
IE
Berlin, and attract Next to the Neue Synagoge, NB
UR
visitors with a the Centrum Judaicum GE
restaurant and (Jewish Centre) houses R
ST
fashionable documents relating to the RA
SS
clothes shops. history and cultural heritage E
of the Berlin Jews (p130).

S-Bahn line

The glittering golden

domes of the Neue
Synagoge

140
 NORTH MITTE AND
PRENZLAUER BERG

Locator Map
For more detail see p120

Alter Jüdischer Friedhof, the city’s

oldest Jewish cemetery Did You Know?
Christian Boltanski’s
Missing House
pays tribute to the
city’s voids after
Sophienkirche is a small the Holocaust.
Protestant church founded
FINISH
by its namesake, Queen
Sophie Luisa, in 1712 (p132).

The Gedenkstätte Grosse

Hamburger Strasse memorial
to the Berlin Jews stands on the
GROSSE HAM

site of the city’s first Jewish old­

people’s home (p133).

Hackesche Höfe is an
attractive series of
BURGER

interconnected court­
yards, home to many
popular entertainment
venues (p130).
STRASSE

The city’s oldest Jewish

cemetery, Alter Jüdischer
Friedhof, is now a tree­filled
park after being destroyed by
HACK the Gestapo in 1943 (p138).
ESCH
ER M
ARKT

Once the grounds

of a royal palace, the
small Monbijoupark
(p131) contains a marble
bust of the poet Adelbert
von Chamisso.

0 metres 100 N
0 yards 100

141
Colourful memorials on the Berlin Wall

FRIEDRICHSHAIN
This famous district was created in 1920 when
several outlying villages were absorbed into the
city as part of the Greater Berlin Act. The area
was bombed heavily during World War II because
of its many factories and, due to the damage, the
district’s residential buildings were left largely
unattended during the GDR – which focused on
constructing Soviet showstreet Karl-Marx-Allee
and erecting their trademark Plattenbauten
(prefab tower blocks) wherever it could.
After the Berlin Wall fell, the area became
a magnet for left-wingers and squatters. Vague
traces of the area’s dissident culture remain,
but most have been driven out by the same
gentrifying process that has affected the rest
of Berlin’s inner-city areas.

143
 E

E
Senefelderplatz
Senefelderplatz

E
LE

LE

SS

SS

SE
RA

RA
AL

AL

R SE
AS
SS

A
ST

ST
.

S TA S
ME ME

R
R

A
CH

CH

ST
TZ TZ

- TR
ST

ST
ER ER

ST
AR

AR
KA KA

TO S
ER

ER

O OW

-
ST ST TH TH

O
O
RA RA E- E-

TT
ES

ES
ER

ER

TZ

TZ
T
SS SS NI NI

AU

AU

O
ED ED

S- Ö
E E ER ER

LD

LD

B
KI KI

ZL

ZL

S-
RC RC

AN

AN
HN HN

A
EN

EN
ER ER
St.-Georgen-
St.-Georgen-

SW

SW

H
- -
ST ST

PR

PR
Kirchhof Kirchhof RA RA

IF

IF
NORTHNORTH
MITTEMITTE SS
E
SS
E

A
M
AND PRENZLAUER
AND PRENZLAUER

S
G

G
AINHSHAIN
CHSH C
BERG BERG UER BE UER
P R E N Z L A P R E N Z L AR G
BER
G I E D R IF R I E D R I
FRA
AM M
p118 p118 St.-Marien- St.-Marien-
Kirchhof Kirchhof Märchenbrunnen
Märchenbrunnen
ME ME . .
ND ND TR TR
HS HS

E
ST E L S ST E L S RC RC
RA SO RA SO
S

S
KI KI

FHR ST R

FR
MO MO SS HN SS HN

HÖ TR
S

S
E E EN EN

ÖIC A
- - D D
R.

R.

IE
S
CH ASS

EH S S
LL LL RG RG
A

A
VolksparkVolkspark
ST

ST

ST E

ST E
ST ST O O
TR

TR

EEN

EN
GE GE

E
HIR HIR
T-

T-

RA RA Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain

ST

ST
TE TE
CH

CH

SS SS
-S

-S
N- N- E E
BA

BA

R
ST ST E E SS SS
NE

NE

R. R.

A
A A
R

R
WA WA
N

SS

SS
TR TR Freiluftkino
Freiluftkino
N

N
DZ DZ
BK

NS NS
IM

IM
U

E
EC EC
TR E B

EI EI Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain
ST

ST
KS KS
IE

W W
R

R
LS L I

TR TR
.

.
-L

TR

AS

AS
R

AS AS
IBE L -

LS
RL

MO MO
SE

SE
SE SE
-B

-B
KEA R

IBE

LL LL
KA

KE
K

ST ST
O

RA RA
TT

TT

SS SS E
E E ALLE ALL
O

PLATZ DER
VEREINTEN
PLATZ DER
VEREINTEN
AG
L A N D S B EL R N EDRS B E R G E R
BE BE NATIONEN NATIONEN
RO RO
LI LI FR FR
NA NA

R.

R.
S T R A SS E

USST R A S S E
ST ST IE IE

ST

ST
Alexanderplatz
Alexanderplatz RA RA
D D
.
TR

ER

ER
SS SS
E E EN EN FS

RG

RG
S T DOR

ER

ER
ST

BE

BE
Kino Kino ND

S S RG

S S RG
R EN R A

US
Schillingstrasse
Schillingstrasse International A FE
International UF

RA BE

RA BE
G ESRTRA

RA
SS SS PU

E
P
GER

ST I C H S

ST I C H S
ST
E E
Bahnhof Bahnhof
O BK A R K A WEY
JAC JAC

R
WE
BER

BER
OB R L DEM

IED

IED
Alexanderplatz
Alexanderplatz YS YS L YDE
TR TR - M - M EYER ME
YER

FR

FR
AS AS A A R ST R
SE R
TEN

TEN

ST R
AL

AL

SE
X X .
-A .
-A

E
PA L PA L
EX

EX

L L
R ST R.

R ST R.

ASS

ASS
N EL E LE ISA ISA
LICH

LICH

NE DEN DEN
AN

AN

UE UE E E
ALEXANDER-
ALEXANDER- STR STR
SE

STR

STR
BL BL N EU N EU . .
SS
DE

DE

UM UM W EB ER E W EB ER E
LE BU SE

LE BU SE
. .
AS

TR TR EN EN ST ST R.
PLATZPLATZ
A

INS INS STRAUSBERGER R.

RS

RS

ST SSTRAUSBERGER
TR

PEN

PEN
TR

T.R

Z Z R.
GA GA . PLATZ
TR.
GSSTR

MA MA PLATZ
TR

TR

GS

L LUM E

ME E

p102 p102
NS

Strausberger
Strausberger
H IBL NEU

BLU NEU
I NEN

KOP

KOP
.

.
IN

Platz Platz
LL

KARL K
SI SI BLU ME NST R.BLU ME NST R.
Karl-Marx- - M A RA R L - M A R
Karl-Marx-
HI

NG NG
Parochial-
Parochial- ER ER X-A L L X-A L L
E

Kloster- Kloster-
SC

SC

ST ST Allee Allee EE
SS

SS

kirche kirche
strasse strasse RA
SS
RA
SS
RA

RA

E E
ST

ST

Peres Pere
SE

SE

S T R A L A U SE TRRSATLRAAUSESRE S T R A S S E Projects Proje

.

SING S
ERST INGERST
TR

TR
R

RAS

RAS
GE

GE

RASS RASS
RS

RS

E E
NE

NE
ER

ER

Jannowitz-Jannowitz-
LL

LL

SST

SST

brücke brücke
NB

NB
WA

WA

HO HO
TE

TE

LZM LZM
REA

REA

AR AR
-PL E

Jannowitz- Jannowitz-
CH

CH

AT Z

KT KT
IN G UN
L AT
E

brücke brücke ST ST
SS

SS
LI

LI

R. R. R
H RO M M
G-P

Ü
AND

AND

RA

RA

D
E
RIN

L AN G L
E ST R AN G E ST R
ST

ST
SSE

SSE

RE K

AS SE AS SE
EH
EN

EN

Michael- Michael-
ST R A

ST R A

Z- M

ZE- M

MärkischesMärkisches brücke brücke

PP

PP

ISE
NS
AN

Museum Museum LA LA
ARRAI
KO

KO

AR

NG NG
CKEN

CKEN

FR

R PF

E E
S S
.

.
STR

STR

RP

ST ST
p p RA RA
re re SS SS
BRÜ

BRÜ

DE

DE
CH

CH

E E
e e
KIR

KIR

W W
SE

SE

RI R
Ostbahnhof
Ostbahnhof KA EZE KA IEZ
EL

EL
E

SE

AS

AS
SS

RR N RR
HA

HA

EE ER
AS

E
ST R

ST R
A

MIC

MIC
TR

TR

Heinrich-Heine-
Heinrich-Heine- ST ST
RA RA
-S

-S

Strasse Strasse KÖ
P
KÖ
PE LA LA
AN AN EN Schilling- Schilling- UE UE
INE

INE

ICK NI
NE NE CK brücke brücke R R
ER ER
-HE

-HE

NS NS PL PL
TR TR ST ST
AT AT
Z Z
ICH

ICH

. . RA RA
SS SS
INR

INR

MICHAELKIRCH-
MICHAELKIRCH- E E
PLATZ PLATZ
HE

HE

East SideEast Side

M M Gallery Gallery
AM AM
FRIEDRICHSHAIN E N G E L D E N G E L D
FRIEDRICHSHAIN
KÖ KÖ
R.

R.
ST

ST

PE PE M
N N
EL

EL

IC IC
FF

FF

KE KE
EU

EU

R R
NT

NT

MARIANNEN- MARIANNEN- ST ST
MA

MA

PLATZ PLATZ RA RA
SS SS
E E

0 metres 0 metres 500 N 500 N

0 yards 0 yards 500 500 S
 .

.
TR

TR
ES

ES
D

D
E

RO

RO FRIEDRICHSHAIN
SS

IP

IP
KN

KN

CO

CO
Must See
NR

NR
E E
SS SS
DA

DA

RA RA
AD

AD
ST ST 1 Karl-Marx-Allee
-

-
NZ

NZ

- -
TE R. TE R. E- E-
IG

IG

RE ST RE ST EY
S
EY
S
GA ER- GA ER- Experience More
BL

BL
- H - H
ER

ER

M M P. P.
SO AR

SO AR

EN

EN
M M
2 Peres Projects
M

KL

KL
ST

ST

E-

E-
3 Volkspark Friedrichshain
RA

RA

4 Computerspielemuseum
SS

SS

ST

ST
RA

RA
E

5 Kino International
SS

SS
E

6 Boxhagener Platz
7 Oberbaumbrücke
EB

EB

8 RAW Gelände
ER

ER

E E
LE LE
AL AL
TY

TY
PE

PE

9 East Side Gallery

ST

ST

R R
n RG
E
RG
E
TE

TE

RA

RA

E E
SB SB
RS

RS

ND ND
SSE

SSE

LA LA Eat
BU

BU
RIC

RIC

. .
STR STR
1 Schneeweiss
RG

RG

LEE
HA

HA

A NN A NN
HH HH
RD

RD

C C
ER

ER

KO KO
Stay
-

2 Michelberger Hotel
STR

STR

.
SO

SO

S TR . .
RF STR STR
RG

RG

DO NN NN 3 Eastern Comfort
AS

AS

MA MA
E-

E-

ASS ASS
STR STR
SE

SE

Kirchhof Kirchhof
St .-Pet ri-St .-Pet ri-
ST

ST

Gemeinde Gemeinde
RA

RA
SS

SS

SE SE
LÖ

L ÖE
E

AS AS
E
SS

SS

TR TR
WE

WE

MS MS
RA

RA

SA SA
ECK

ECK

H H
MÜ MÜ
ST

ST
ST

ST

ERT

ERT
RA

RA
ER

ER

STR

STR
AU

AU

SS

SS
E

G G RIG RIG
Computerspiele- E I D E N W E E I D E N W E
Computerspiele- AER AER
SE

SE

W W
museum museum STR STR
AS

AS

EE ASS ASS
STR

STR

E E

Weberwiese
Weberwiese
K
es ARL- KARL-
MARX MARX RIG RIG
R

-ALLE -ALLE Frankfurter

Frankfurter AER AER
UE

UE

ects E E Tor Tor

KA

KA

HILDE H STR STR

G A R D I- L D E G A R D - ASS ASS
OS

OS

FRAN F E E
K F UR RA N K F U R
JADAM J
O W I TAZD A M O W I T Z
PR

PR
MA

MA

-STR -STR TER TER

AS AS
GU

GU
RC

RC

SE SE
ALLE A
E L L E Samariterstrasse
E Samariterstrasse
BE

BE
HL

HL

ER ER
E

RF RF
STR.

STR.
NE

NE
EW

EW

SE

SE
MUN

DO E DO E
R ASSE

SSE

RS SS RS SS
RAS
R

R
SK

SK

DE TRRÜA DE TRA BO BO
RS TA S
NER

NER

E E XH XH
ST ASS

ST
IST

IST

TRA

FR S D E FR S
KO M

RST

SSE

ER AG AG
S
R.

R.

EN EN
GSETR

R
RA

KADI

KADI

SD SD
IGE

ER ER
R S
TRA

TRA
SS

O O GRÜ GRÜ ST ST
Z TEZRI
ER

UTZ

R R NBE NBE RA RA
NZE

FE FE RGE RGE
E

R. .
BES

BES

TR SS SS
NU

R R ST R ST R ST E E
DS
KRE

M AK RI E

RAS RAS
ST SKT I N D I N SE SE
MAI

SCHA S
EK RNWE CHARNWE
COL

COL

R D E R D BERS B
. WE . WE GRÜ GRÜ TRAS ERSTRAS
N BER NBE SE SE
GER RGE
.

COMENI- COMENI- R ST
STR

STR

STR
E

ASS RAS
SS

SS

USPLATZ USPLATZ E SE
SSE

SE

RA

RA

ZE
ST

ST
A SA X -

X-

Boxhagener
Boxhagener
SE

SE

N
S

EE ER BerghainBerghain
MA

NG

NG
TRA

TRA

AS

SE TL -R M

KO KO Platz Platz
MA

MA
GURCH

GU

PER PER
JU

JU
STR

NIK NIK
L-
RC

BE LE

BE

ASS

ASS

USS USS
RIE
R S

R S

TR. TR.
HL

H - BRI
NE WS

NE

BO

BO
STR

STR
GAB
EHW

R KIS

DAC GA
HE

XH

XH
AUE

AUE

ME

ME
E LS K

SE SE
H-
LS

ST TR

ST
SI I S T

AG

AG

S S
IN

SEU

SEU

RA RA
DAC
N

R. AS

R.
GF

GF A S

ST ST
EN

EN
STR.

.
SCH

SCH
O

ER ER
ER

ER
RS

RS

ER ST
R

SI

SI
ON-

ON-

U U
ER

ER

BA BA
UER

LI LI
PL

PL
SE

SE

CHAU
WAR

WAR
ST

ST

WÜ WÜ
SIM

SIM

O
CHA

R E VA R E VA
RA

RA

HL HL
N

ST

ST

LER LER
ST

ST

ISC ISC
SS

SS

DIRS

DIRS

RA

RA
RA

RA

HS HS
E

TR TR
SS

SS
SS

SS

ST ST AS AS
RA RA
E

E
E

SE SE
Urban Spree
Urban Spree
ASS

ASS

SS SS
E E
SO

SO
STR

STR

HE HE
LEN LEN
NN

NN

-ER -ER
RAW Gelände
RAW Gelände
IUS

IUS

NST NST
-ST -ST
TA

TA
PH

PH

RAS RAS
SE

SE

Warschauer
Warschauer
GS

GS

SE SE
GRY

GRY
RAS

RAS

Strasse Strasse
TR

TR

M M
ÜH ÜH
AS

AS

LE LE
NST

NST

N S Mercedes-Benz
N S Mercedes-Benz
SE

SE

RU RU
DO DO
TR Arena
TR Arena LFS LFS
SOH

SOH

TR TR
AS AS AS
SE
AS
SE
SE SE
DER

DER

Warschauer
Warschauer
Strasse Strasse
R.

MO

MO
R
KST

KST
.

.
STR

STR
RUC

RUC
KER

KER
MB

MB
NEC

NEC
LEH

LEH

Schlesisches
Schlesisches Oberbaumbrücke
Oberbaumbrücke
DAN

DAN

Tor Tor
 1

KARL-MARX-ALLEE
 P5

The area around this wide boulevard has a vibrant and relaxed
atmosphere. Most residents are in their mid-twenties, drawn here
EXPERIENCE Friedrichshain

by the alternative cafés and cool bars.

The route leading east to

Poland and Moscow was A typical Socialist-era
initially called Frankfurter residential block, now in
Strasse, and then renamed high demand for Berliners
Stalinallee in 1949. Having
suffered severe damage
during World War II, the street taken from famous Berlin
was chosen as the site for the architects Schinkel (p28)
construction showpiece of and Gontard, as well
the new German Democratic as from the renowned
Republic, featuring spacious Meissen porcelain.
and luxurious apartments for
workers, as well as commercial infrastructure. The Avenue Today
The buildings on this street, renamed
GDR Showcase Karl-Marx-Allee in 1961, are now considered
The avenue was widened to 90 m (300 ft) historic monuments, and the section between
and, in the course of the next 10 years, huge Strausberger Platz and Frankfurter Tor is
residential tower blocks and a row of shops effectively a huge open-air museum of
were built on it. The first houses to be built on Socialist Realist architecture. The buildings
the street were Modernist in style and quickly have been cleaned up and the crumbling
denounced as “too Western”. They were details are gradually being restored.
hidden behind trees while the rest of the
street proceeded in a more aptly Socialist
style. The next architects followed a style
known in the Soviet Union as “pastry chef”,
which was “nationalistic in form, but socialist
in content”, and linked the whole work to
Berlin’s own traditions. Hence there are motifs

146
 Must See

The twin towers

were designed
by Hermann
Henselmann in
the Stalinist style.

WORKER UPRISING
In 1953, Karl-Marx-Allee was the site
One of the two of a mass worker uprising. Increasing
domed towers of food costs and work quotas led people
Frankfurter Tor to begin peaceful protests, which were
(Frankfurt Gate) followed by strikes and marches as
their calls fell on deaf ears. The
situation escalated, with the uprising
spreading across East Germany. The
uprising ended on 17 June, when
Soviet tanks were called in to help the
police suppress a protest in East Berlin.
Over 50 workers were killed and many
more injured in the revolt.

The 2-km (1-mile) boulevard

stretches from Frankfurter Tor
to Strausberger Platz

147
 EXPERIENCE MORE
of a design by landscape
2 architect Peter Joseph Lenné,
Peres Projects with the idea of creating an
alternative Tiergarten for the
 P5 ⌂ Karl-Marx-Allee 82
eastern districts of the city.
 Weberwiese, Strauss-
EXPERIENCE Friedrichschain

The greatest attraction here is

berger Platz @ 142, N5
the Fountain of Fairy Tales (or
# 11am–6pm Mon–Fri
Märchenbrunnen) by Ludwig
∑ peresprojects.com
Hoffmann, built in 1902–13.
This well-known art gallery It is a spectacular feature in
is the latest of a series a Neo-Baroque style, its
of venues – a typically box- fountain pools decorated with
shaped room with concrete small statues of turtles and
columns, large, street-facing other animals. The fountain Bust of Frederick the
windows and pristine white- is surrounded by well-known Great in Volkspark
painted walls. Known for characters from the fairy tales Friedrichshain
championing artists early in by the Brothers Grimm.
their careers as well as the There’s a sports and games
occasional established name, area as well as plenty of room displays over 300 items from a
it shows consistently for leisurely strolls. For the life-size Lara Croft to a Wall of
innovative works from inter- adventurous, there is a chall- Hardware with vintage games
national contemporary enging outdoor climbing wall. and toys. Here also is pretty
figures ranging from North much every arcade machine
American artists like James and games console ever
Franco and Brent Wadden made, including the immense
to locals such as the German 4"' but pioneering Nimrod from
painter David Ostrowski. Computerspiele- 1951, and the Brown Box from
museum 1959, developed by Ralph H
Baer – the inventor of video
 P5 ⌂ Karl-Marx-Allee 93a
games for home use. There’s
3  Weberwiese, Strauss-
also a small penny arcade (no
berger Platz @ 347, N5
Volkspark payment required) with
# 10am–8pm daily
Friedrichshain vintage slot machine games
∑ computerspiele
like Donkey Kong, Asteroids
 P3 ⌂ Am Friedrichshain/ museum.de
and Space Invaders, and more
Friedenstrasse @ 142, 200
The Computer Games Museum contemporary game systems
v M5, M6, M8, M10
is Europe’s first museum for like the 3D PlayStation
The extensive park complex video and computer games. It monitor from Sony.
of Friedrichshain, with its
picturesque nooks and
crannies, was one of Berlin’s
first public parks. It was laid
out in the 1840s on the basis

Group exhibition, The Second

Self, by artists regularly shown
at the Peres Projects gallery

148
 Goods for sale (inset) at
Boxhagener Platz’s
weekend market

5"-
Kino International
 O4 ⌂ Karl-Marx-Allee 33
 &  Alexanderplatz
 Schillingstrasse @ N5
∑ kino-international.com

One of the most eye-catching

buildings on the Karl-Marx-
Allee, this large, blocky and
historic cinema was a landmark
in the GDR and remains so
today – not least for its cameo
role in the classic movie
Goodbye Lenin and, since 1995,
its UNESCO-heritage status.
Used for hosting premieres
until the fall of the Wall, it still
operates as a cinema, with
state-of-the-art facilities and
a good rotation of commercial
and arthouse movies. It’s
worth taking a moment to
inspect the sandstone reliefs 6
on the outside as well as the Boxhagener Platz
distinctly retro-looking foyer.
 R6  &  Frankfurter
Allee  Frankfurter Tor
@ 240, N40 v M5, M10,
M13, 21

The most famous square in

EAT
Friedrichshain, Boxhagener
Platz (locally known as “Boxi”)
serves as both a historical The streets leading off from
Schneeweiss centre point for the area and the square – Grünberger
One of Friedrichshain’s a social hub. Named after the Strasse, Krossener Strasse,
few upmarket former nearby manor farm Gärtnerstrasse and Gabriel-
restaurants, “Snow and hamlet of Boxhagen, Max-Strasse – are also worth
White” combines a these days it’s surrounded exploring for their cafés,
minimalist aesthetic by shops, bars, galleries and boutiques, restaurants and
with an Alpine menu restaurants that draw a mix bars, while nearby Simon-
that straddles Italian, of students, families, tourists, Dach-Strasse and RAW
Austrian and south punks and free spirits. Gelände (p150) are well
German dishes: think At weekends Boxi is especially known for their upbeat
Wiener schnitzel and popular due to its excellent weekend nightlife.
Bavarian pasta. markets. The Saturday food
market has been held here
 R6 ⌂ Simplonstrasse
since 1903 and offers an
16 # 6pm–1am Mon–Fri , The extensive
10am–1am Sat & Sun
array of fruit and vegetables,
but also food stalls selling park complex of
∑ schneeweiss-
berlin.de everything from falafel to Friedrichshain, with
¡¡¡
grilled fish. And at the its picturesque nooks
Sunday flea market you
can find a variety of items
and crannies, was
such as jewellery and vinyl one of Berlin’s first
and second-hand clothes. public parks.

149
 brick. The central arch is
marked by a pair of cren-
ellated Neo-Gothic towers.

STAY The most decorative element

of the bridge, a Neo-Gothic
arcade, supports a line of
Michelberger Hotel the U-Bahn.
This alternative hotel is Prior to reunification, the
one of Friedrichshain’s bridge linked districts from
EXPERIENCE Friedrichshain

funkiest, with quirky opposing sides of the Wall,

rooms, a great lounge and only pedestrians with the
and restaurant, plus live correct papers were able to
music in the courtyard. cross. It is now open to traffic.
 Q7 ⌂ Warschauer
Strasse 39/40
∑ michelbergerhotel.com
8
¡¡¡
RAW Gelände
Eastern Comfort  Q7 ⌂ Revaler Strasse 99
This floating hostel on a  &  Warschauer Strasse
solar-powered boat on @ 347  M5, M10, M13
the Spree is a perennial Formerly a 19th-century repair
backpacker favourite. yard owned by the national
 Q7 railway (its official name was
⌂ Mühlenstrasse 73 “Reichsbahn-Ausbesserungs-
∑ eastern-comfort.com Werk”, hence RAW), this
¡¡¡ sprawling complex of graffiti-
spattered warehouses and
buildings today represents
one of the most prominent
alternative cultural spaces in
the city. It’s fun to stroll around
7 any time of day, especially if
Oberbaumbrücke you’re a street-art fan, though venue with an outdoor pool
it really comes alive in the and beer garden for the
 Q7  &  Warschauer
evenings at weekends. The warmer months.
Strasse  Schlesisches
70,000-sq-m (17.5-acre) site One of the most exciting
Tor @ 300, 347 v M10
incorporates a slew of clubs enterprises here is Urban
This pretty bridge crossing and bars, a couple of shack- Spree, a masterpiece in post-
the Spree river was built in like eateries, an indoor skate apocalyptic urban styling.
1896 to a design by Otto hall and a climbing wall that The 1,700-sq-m (18,000-sq-ft)
Stahn. It is made from rein- was once a World War II space is devoted to “urban
forced concrete, but the bunker. Haubentaucher is a cultures”, most notably street
arches are faced with red trendy event and concert and graphic art. Its monthly
changing art shows mostly
involve high-profile local and
international street artists
who usually paint the entire
compound, including all 15 m
(50 ft) of its 8-m- (25-ft-)
high flagship “Artist Wall”.

Urban Spree
- = # noon–midnight
Tue–Sun (to 3am Fri & Sat)
∑ urbanspree.com

Street food stalls and a tattoo

parlour at Urban Spree in the
RAW Gelände complex

150
 The graffiti-covered East
Side Gallery, bringing back
memories of the Wall era

numerous paintings that the Wall was protected by

9 have adorned its surface border guards and watch­
East Side Gallery since 1990. More than 100 towers until the collapse
artists have contributed to of the GDR in 1989. Soon
 P7 ⌂ Mühlenstrasse
the gallery, and millions of after, dozens of artists
 &  Warschauer Strasse
visitors to the city come began using it as a political
 Ostbahnhof @ 24, 140,
here every year to enjoy canvas, decorating it with
300 v M10 ∑ eastside
their work. murals, slogans and paint­
gallery-berlin.com
Although it’s not the city’s ings. The improvised gallery
Running alongside the official Berlin Wall memorial, was appointed an official
River Spree, the East Side this 1.3­km (0.8­mile) stretch one in 1990 and given
Gallery is the longest sur­ is the longest section of the protected memorial status
viving stretch of the Berlin Wall that still exists today. the following year. The gal­
Wall – as well as the most Located in the former East lery was repainted for its
colourful, thanks to the Berlin district of Friedrichshain, 20th anniversary in 2009,
with some original artists
refusing to repaint or retouch
THE PARTY’S OVER (FOR NOW) their artworks for reasons
Berlin is known for its nightlife, but since March 2020 of authenticity. In 2016,
the party has come to a stop due to COVID-19. While the a multimedia museum
thousands of tourists who once came to the city for a opened at the south end
weekend on the dance floor instead choose to stay home, of the East Side Gallery,
the closing of clubs has been a disaster for venues and giving an overview of the
the local economy. Some have compensated by opening Berlin Wall era through
beer gardens and open-air dining areas, or hosting art screens, interactive displays,
exhibitions like Berghain. It remains to be seen if Berlin’s original newsreel footage
club scene will survive the pandemic wholly intact. and filmed interviews
with Berliners who lived
through it.

151
The Reichstag illuminated at night

TIERGARTEN
Once a royal hunting estate, the Tiergarten
became a park in the 18th century. In the 19th
century a series of buildings – mostly department
stores and banks – was erected at Potsdamer Platz.
Many of these buildings were destroyed during
World War II, and the division of Berlin into East
and West changed the character of the area even
further. The Tiergarten ended up on the west side
of the Wall, and later regained its glory with the
creation of the Kulturforum and the Hansaviertel.
The area around Potsdamer Platz, however, fell
in East Berlin and became a wasteland.
Following reunification, this area witnessed
exciting development. Together with the
government offices near the Reichstag, this
ensures that the Tiergarten area is at the centre
of Berlin’s political and financial district.

153
 IT IT
AB AB

ASSE

ASSE
-MO -MO A LT- A
M OA LT- M OA
A LT A LT
TIERGARTEN BIT BI

MSTR

MSTR
STRASSE

STRASSE

STRO

STRO
Must Sees
1 Kunstgewerbemuseum Lessingbrücke
Lessingbrücke

ER

ER
HO L S T EI N E HO L S T EI N E
2 Gemäldegalerie R R

ELBERFELD

ELBERFELD
U FE U FE
R R

CL AU D

CL AU D
3 Potsdamer Platz Moabiter
Brücke
Moabiter
Brücke

T
SE

SE

HE
IU SS TR

IU SS TR
LE LE

LG
VE VE

RAS

RAS
Experience More

OL
TZ TZ
OW OW

Ä
FL EN SB UR FL EN SB UR

.
ST ST

G ST

G ST
4 Philharmonie und
GE R ST R GE Bellevue Belle
RA RA AS SE R ST R AS SE
SS SS
Hansa- Hansa-
E brückeE Hansaviertel
Hansaviertel

IN

IN
Kammermusiksaal brücke

SS

SS
5 Musikinstrumenten-Museum

ER

ER

LE

LE
AL LE E AL LE E

UF

UF
BA RT NI NG BA RT NI NG

A-

A-
6 Kupferstichkabinett

NS

NS
HANSA- HANSA-

HA

HA
PLATZ PLATZ
Sch
7 Kunstbibliothek HansaplatzHansaplatz Akademie AkademieBe
der Kunste der Kunste
8 St-Matthäus-Kirche
AL AL B
9 Neue Nationalgalerie
TO TO

SE
E

A SE
S
N N
Englischer Englisc

AS
SS

T RS S
AE AE

TR
0 Urban Nation

RA

KRS A
R Gar ten
R Gar te

KS
ST ST

ST

SCT

OC
THO
RA RA
q Potsdamer Strasse

CH

ST
CS
A L L EÄEN D E L A L L E E SS SS

BOAP

OP
BA
HÄNDEL H E E

KL

KL
w Staatsbibliothek
e Shell-Haus
Fauler See Fauler See
I I
r Diplomatenviertel TiergartenTiergarten E D E S 1E7 . D JEUSN 1 7 . J U N
ST R A S S ST R A S S
t Tiergarten
y Villa von der Heydt GRO GRO
SSE SSE
u Grosser Stern
RW RW
EG EG

i Haus der Kulturen der Welt Neuer Neuer

See See
o Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
p Schloss Bellevue
a Reichstag

TR .

TR .
s Regierungsviertel S
DR AK ES

DR AK ES

ER
d Bauhaus-Archiv

STÜL
RA UC HS RA UC HS
AROUND
AROUND nd
w
nd
w
La La TR .

f Siegessäule KURFÜRSTENDAMM
KURFÜRSTENDAMM ehrkCaOnR N EL I ehrkCaOnR N EL I
p196 p196 al US al US
g Bendlerblock -

h Hansaviertel Z o o l o gZi socohl oe g

r ischer ASS
E
ASS
E
ST
RA
STR STR
G a r t e nG a r t e n ES TER STE
R
Eat BU DAP BUD
A P E

1 Café am Neuen See BUDA BUDATRASSE ASSE

P ES T ER S P ES T ER S TR
2 Lindenbräu BREITSCHEID-BREITSCHEID- KU
RFÜ
KU
RFÜ
PLATZ Europa-
PLATZ Europa- RST RST
3 Vox TA Center
TA Center EN
STR
EN
STR
UE UE ASS ASS
4 Ristorante essenza NT
ZI
NT
ZI
E E
EN EN
5 Teehaus im Englischen Garten ST
RA
ST
RA
SS SS
R.

R.

6 Oh Panama E E
ST

ST

LOS-ANGELES-LOS-ANGELES-
ER

ER

7 Joseph Roth Diele

PLATZ PLATZ
CO
RG

RG

I A
UR B IE R E S TR .

Wittenbergplatz
Wittenbergplatz
N
BE

BE

8 Facil
RA

RA
RN

RN

U
NÜ

NÜ

R
DE

DE

Augsburger
Augsburger KaDeWe KaDeWe
Drink Strasse Strasse
AN

AN

KLE
TRASSE STRASSE
K AML C

KALCKREUTHSTR.

9 Kumpelnest 3000 G E R USR G E R

BUR
MARTIN-LUTHER-STRASSE

B
ZEN IETZEN
AKRRTEI UNT-HLSUTTRH

LIET
0 Victoria Bar
L
EISEN ACHER

q Tiger Bar
E

E
ASS

ASS

NÜRNBERGERNÜRNBERGER
PLATZ PLATZ
MO
ST R

ST R

GEISB G
ERGS EISBERGS
. ER-STRA

Stay TRAS
SE
TRAS
SE
HER

HER

N
w Das Stue
STR ASSE
BAC

BAC

e Ritz Carlton Viktoria- Viktoria-

SSE
ANS

ANS

Luise-PlatzLuise-Platz T-
R FE LD IN TE R FE
W IN TE W
Shop VIKTORIA-LUISE-
PLATZ
VIKTORIA-LUISE-
PLATZ

r Andreas Murkudis

H O H E N S THAOUHF E N S T ARUA FS ES N
E STRASSE
0 metres 0 metres 500 N 500 N
0 yards 0 yards 500 500
 Hauptbahnhof
Hauptbahnhof

S E S E
T
R R AS AS NORTH
NORTH
MITTEMITTE
AND AND
ST ST
EN EN
AL
ID
AL
ID PRENZLAUER
PRENZLAUER
BERG BERG
SSE

SSE

N V V
A L T - M O A L T -IM O IN p118 p118
TRA

TRA

ABIT ABIT

SSE

SSE
REGIERUNGS-
REGIERUNGS-
IUSS

IUSS

VIERTEL
VIERTEL
STRA

STRA
MAS

MAS

E E
SS SS Kanzler Brücke
Kanzler Brücke
RA RA
THO

THO

r
PAUL

PAUL ST ST Moltkebrücke
Moltkebrücke
e W ND
AW R A ND
Y- BR
HE

B
R R I I LL L LY-
GE GE

T STRASSE

T STRASSE
LG

RE I C H

RE I C H
UR UR
OL

NE
B
NE
B Kanzlerpark
Kanzlerpark
ÄN

ÄN

LÜ LÜ
DE

DE

ST A G

ST A G
evue
R

Regierungsviertel
Regierungsviertel
UF

UF
ER

ER

UF

UF
BundestagBundestag

ER

ER
Sp Sp P A U L - L Ö B E P- AA LULLE- E
LÖ B E - A L L E E

re re Haus derHaus der ReichstagReichstag

I N - S T R.

I N - S T R.
LEE

LEE
PLATZ DER PLATZ DER
e e KulturenKulturen
der Welt der Welt

Q U ER O S S E

Q U ER O S S E
REPUBLIK REPUBLIK
hlosspark
Schlosspark

RAL

RAL
ellevue Bellevue

K- R A B

K- R A B
G

G
J O H N - F O S JTO H N - F O S T TR
S C H E I D E MSACNHNESI D MSASNEN S T R A S S E
EA
Schloss Schloss LutherbrückeLutherbrücke
E R - D U L L E SE R - D U L L E S
-ALLEE -ALLEE
BellevueBellevue

Y IT Z H A

Y IT Z H A
cher Sowjetisches
Sowjetisches
EG EG EhrenmalEhrenmal
en EW EW PARISER PARISER
E E PLATZ PLATZ
PR PR I
1D7E. S J U1 N7 . JUNI
S S DES
E S T R A S SSET R A S S E
KLEINER KLEINER
STERN STERN Goldfischteich
Goldfischteich
T I ERG A R

T I ERG A R
Siegesäule
Siegesäule

RASSE

RASSE
Grosser Stern
Grosser Stern Tiergarten
Tiergarten
T i e rT gi ea rr gt ea nr t e n
TEN

GR GR TEN

EBERTST

EBERTST
OS OS
SE SE
TUN

TUN
-S -S BE BE
TE TE LL LL
HOFJÄ

HOFJÄ

RN RN EV EV
UE UE
NEL

NEL

-A -A AL AL
LL LL LE LE
EE EE E E
GERAL

GERAL

G RO S G RO S
SER SER . .
WE WE É É ST R ST R
GR
OS
GR
OS
G G EN N
KEMPER- L KEMPER- L
Bleisheim
E N N Bleisheim
SE SE
Musikinstrumenten-
Musikinstrumenten- Center Center
LEE

LEE

-S -S PLATZ PLATZ
TE TE
EG EG
RN
-A
RN
-A
Museum Museum Sony Sony
RW RW
GROSSE GROSSE LL
EE
LL
EE Philharmonie
Philharmonie Center Center PotsdamerPotsdamer
Platz Platz
ARTEN S T RAARS TSEEN S T R A S S E Kunstgewerbemuseum
Kunstgewerbemuseum
R. R. TIERG TIERG
ST ST Kammer-Kammer-
KLINGE

KLINGE

Kupferstichkabinett
Kupferstichkabinett
E

. . PotsdamerPotsdamer
E R ST RA M E R ST R
ASS

ASS
ER

musiksaal musiksaal
R.

R.

DA M
STÜL

D Platz Platz
D ST

D ST
ST R

ST R

ST R.
TS Gemäldegalerie
TS Gemäldegalerie
K ÖDiplomaten- Diplomaten-
RAN

RAN
IM A

IM A

Haus Huth
Haus Huth
LHÖFER

LHÖFER

KÖB
PO

PO

ISS B ISS Kunstbibliothek

Kunstbibliothek
viertel viertel
OSH

OSH
DEB

DEB

TR TR
AS AS St-Matthäus-Kirche
St-Matthäus-Kirche
ST R . B E R G -

ST R . B E R G -

S- SE SE S IG IS S IG IS
H IR

H IR

PotsdamerPotsdamer
Platz Platz
H IL

H IL

MUN MUN
D ST D ST
R. R.
ST R
.
ST R
. Arkaden Arkaden
ST R .

ST R .

FFEN

FFEN

ST
RA EYD
T -
Villa T
E Yvon
D -
Villa Bendlerblock
derR von derR Bendlerblock
AS S S -DER - H - H Staats- Staats-
ER
- DHeydt Heydt EIC EIC
R.

R.

Neue Neue
STAU

STAU

SE
V OEN VO N HP HP
bibliothek bibliothek
KST

KST

I I ET
W U F E R Z O W U FEETRS C H SCH Nationalgalerie
Nationalgalerie
TZO T UFE UFE
Shell- Shell-
LIN

LIN

BauhausBauhaus LÜ LÜ R R RE RE
IC IC
Archiv Archiv Bendler- Haus
Bendler- Haus S CH H
SPCIH HP
brücke brücke ÖN EÖTN Debis-Haus
IE
T Debis-Haus
EB S CE B SC
E

E
SE

SE

LÜT LÜT
E

E
ASS

ASS

ZO ZO ER H UE R HU
SS

SS

GE F G
AS

AS

LÜTZOW- LÜTZOW- WS WS AM ER F
TRA TRA RA M
STR

STR

PLATZ PLATZ
TR

TR

SSE SSE
RA

RA

ER

ER

BI B IK A KA
S SR L RL
LS

LS

SS
ST

ST

FE

FE
K AR L- HE

K AR L- HE

I NS B SB
SSE

SSE

IN
HIL

HIL

Mendelssohn-
Mendelssohn-
R

PotsdamerPotsdamer G G AD AD
MAGDEBURGER
MAGDEBURGER ZE ZE Bartholdy-Park
Bartholdy-Park
TRA

TRA
UL RI CH

UL RI CH
SC

SC

PLATZ PLATZ Strasse Strasse IL

E
IL
E
ERS

ERS
IN RI CH

IN RI

.
TR

TR
SE

ASSE
NER

SR

KU KU
S

LS

LS
ING

ING

STIRNAE

RF RF LÜ LÜ
CH -

ÜR ÜR H H
EL

EL

TZ TZ A A
K ST R

ST ST OW OW
THI
FFL

FFL
-

TW

TW
U CTKH

EN EN ST ST
R

LL

LL

ST ST RA RA
KLUC

OT

OT
E

E
ME

ME

RA RA SS SS
CO

DER

DER

GEN

GKEL N

ES

ES
ASS

ASS

IA SS SS E E
UR B IE R E S TR .

FL

FL

N E E
CH

CH
STRAS

STRAS

DA

DA

PO PO
ST R

ST R
A

HL HL
ES

ES

ST ST
RA RA
NER

NER
TS

TS

SS SS
UF

UF

AN DER AN DER E E
SE

SE

PO

PO
KÖ R

KÖ R

APOSTELKIRCHE APOSTELKIRCHE
KREUZBERG
KREUZBERG
ER

ER

- -
KLE ER ER POHL P
STRA OHLSTRA
EIS SK R. SK R.
ISTS - L A R-ST - L A R-ST SS SSE
p178 p178
TST
R. TR. S E
EL ÜLE
S E
EL ÜLE
Kurfürstenstrasse E
Kurfürstenstrasse
E -

E -

SH SH
SS ITZ

SS ITZ

NOLLENDORF-NOLLENDORF- KUR KUR Gleisdreieck

Gleisdreieck
RA W

RA W

Nollendorfplatz Nollendorfplatz FÜRS F

TENS ÜRSTENS
ST N E

ST N E

PLATZ PLATZ
EISEN ACHER

TRAS TRAS
N

N
TR .

TR .

SE SE SE SE
DE

DE

S S BÜL BÜL
RA Urban Nation RA
Urban NationO W S
M ET ZS

M ET ZS

T ST OW
ZS TZ STR
OT MO TRA
S S E Bülowstrasse
A S S Bülowstrasse Nelly- Nelly-
M AA SS EN

M AA SS EN

E
.

.
STR

STR

ST EI N

ST EI N

. . Sachs- Sachs-
FSTR FSTR
ST R.

ST R.

N ST R.

N ST R.

DOR DOR SCH

WER
SCH
WER BÜL BÜL Park Park
LEN LEN OWS OWS
NOL NOL
EN-

EN-

INST INST
TRA TRA
STR ASSE

R. R.
SSE SSE
ZIET

ZIET

FR O BE

FR O BE
-

WIN WIN
TER TER
A SS E A SS E
GLEDI

GLEDI

ST R ST R FEL FEL
DTS DTS
TRA TRA DENNEWITZ- DENNEWITZ-
E LD T- SSE SSE PLATZ PLATZ
TSCHS

TSCHS

A LV E A LV E
N SL E N
B E N ST SL E B E N ST
E

R A SS R A SS
E E
POTSDAMER STRASS

POTSDAMER STRASS
TR.

TR.

PALLAS PALLAS
TIERGARTEN
TIERGARTEN
STRASS STRASS
E E
G GOE
OE BEN B
ST R A E N ST R A
SSE SSE

Yorckstrasse
Yorckstrasse
 1"'-=

KUNSTGEWERBE
MUSEUM
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

 I6 ⌂ Matthäikirchplatz  &  Potsdamer Platz  Mendelssohn-

Bartholdy-Park @ 200, M29, M41, M48, M85 # 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
11am–6pm Sat & Sun ∑ smb.museum

The Museum of Decorative Arts is home to unique artwork in media

that visitors don’t usually find in other museums: from tapestries
and wedding dresses to clocks and furniture.

The Kunstgewerbe Museum embraces takes great pride in its collection of late
many genres of craft and decorative Gothic and Renaissance silver from the
art, from the early Middle Ages to the town of Lüneburg’s civic treasury. There
modern day. Goldwork is especially are fine examples of Italian majolica, and
well represented, and among the 18th- and 19th-century German, French
most valuable exhibits is a collection and Italian glass, porcelain and furniture.
of medieval goldwork from the church Exhibits also include fashion, Jugendstil
treasuries of Enger, near Herford, and Art Deco glassware and fur-
and the Guelph treasury from niture, and Bauhaus and
Brunswick. The museum also contemporary design.
Did You Know?
WWII partly destroyed
the museum’s collection;
the surviving items were
split between East
and West Berlin.
 Must See

There are fine

examples of Italian
majolica, and 18th-
and 19th-century
German, French
and Italian glass,
porcelain and
furniture.

The museum was

designed by Rolf Gutbrod
and completed in 1985

The boxy faÇade

hides a spacious and
open interior

GALLERY GUIDE
Visitors enter on
the first floor, where
there is a fashion
gallery. On the ground
floor are exhibits from
the Middle Ages and
the Renaissance, and
on the second floor are
handicrafts from the
Renaissance through
to Art Nouveau.
The basement is
devoted to exploring
contemporary
and Postmodern
industrial design.

A collection of
contemporary furniture,
one of the many unique
exhibits at this museum

157
 2"'-=

GEMÄLDEGALERIE
 I6 ⌂ Matthäikirchplatz 4–6  &  Potsdamer Platz  Mendelssohn-
Bartholdy-Park @ 200, M29, M41, M48, M85 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
(to 8pm Thu) ∑ smb.museum
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

The Picture Gallery is the central attraction of the Kulturforum

complex. Circling a striking inner courtyard, the gallery contains
many of the world’s finest 13th- to 18th-century European paintings.

The paintings in the Picture Gallery collection

have been carefully chosen by specialists GALLERY GUIDE
who, from the beginning of the 19th century, The main gallery contains about 1,000
systematically acquired pictures to ensure that masterpieces grouped according to
all the major European schools of painting were their country of origin and period.
represented. After the division of the city in The educational gallery on the lower
1945, the collection was split over several sites floor houses about 400 13th– to 18th-
in East and West Berlin. Following reunification, century European paintings and a
with the building of a new home as part of the digital gallery.
Kulturforum development, this unique set of
paintings was united again.
The building itself was designed by Heinz
Hilmer and Christoph Sattler and its exhibition
space offers a superb environment in which to
view the paintings. The pictures are gently lit by
the diffused daylight that streams in from above,
while the walls are covered in light-absorbing
fabric. The vast hall that occupies the centre of
the building allows the visitor to take a break
from sightseeing at any time. The hall, with a
futuristic sculpture by Walter de Maria set in
a water-filled pool, provides an ideal place
for moments of quiet contemplation and rest.

The sloped approach to

the Kulturforum obscures
the building within

1641
▼
Double portrait
c 1489 of the Mennonite
Saint John on Patmos, preacher Cornelis
an oil on oak painting Claesz Anslo and his
by Dutch artist wife Aeltje Gerritsdr
Hieronymus Bosch. Schouten, Rembrandt.

c 1480 1559 c 1636

Timeline

▲ Virgin and Child ▲ Pieter Bruegel Landscape

Enthroned with Saints, by managed to illustrate with Juno and
Italian Renaissance artist more than 100 Argus, Nicolas
Carlo Crivelli. proverbs in his painting Poussin.
Dutch Proverbs.

158
 Must See

Did You Know?

Long considered one of
Rembrandt’s masterpieces,
The Man with the
Golden Helmet is not
actually his work.

High ceilings and natural

light help show off the
gallery’s masterpieces

159
 Dutch and Flemish
Painting INSIDER TIP
Within the large collection of Gallery Tours
excellent Flemish paintings, The museum runs
you can marvel at the some useful tours,
Baroque vitality and texture including an “Art in
evident in the canvases of the Evening” tour with
friends and sometime changing thematic
collaborators Peter Paul focuses, and a one-
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

Rubens, Jacob Jordaens, Jan hour “Best of the

Brueghel the Elder and Frans Gallery” tour, which
Snyders. The exceptional provides a good over-
portraits of Anthony van Dyck view for those on a
are indicative of the artist at tight schedule.
the height of his powers.
Portrait of a young man The gallery of 17th-century
(c 1490–1500) by Dutch paintings probably French, English and
Davide Ghirlandaio holds the richest collection in Spanish Painting
the museum. Included among The collection of French art
these are portraits by Frans includes highlights such
Italian Painting Hals that perfectly illustrate as The Madonna with Child
The collection of Italian his enormous artistic talents. (c 1410), one of the oldest
paintings contains exemplary All the most famous Dutch preserved works of art
works by 14th- and 15th- painters are represented, painted on a canvas. Nicolas
century masters, including but the works of Jan Vermeer Poussin, the mainspring of
later works by Raphael, such and Rembrandt attract the the French Classical tradition,
as the Madonna di Terranuova, greatest amount of interest. and Claude Lorrain, famous
painted after Raphael’s arrival Rembrandt’s works include for his idealized landscapes,
in Florence around 1505. the paintings Samson and showcase 17th-century
The Venetian school is also Delilah, Susanna and the Two French painting. The 18th
well represented: Portrait of a Elders and Joseph and the Wife century is represented by
Young Man by Giorgione is a of Potiphar. It is also worth Jean-Antoine Watteau, Jean-
vibrant and colourful study; taking time to view The Man Baptiste Siméon Chardin
there is also Titian’s Venus with the Golden Helmet, a sad and FranÇois Boucher.
and the Organ Player and yet noble painting originally The smaller Spanish
Tintoretto’s Virgin and the attributed to Rembrandt, collection contains a portrait
Child Adored by Saints Mark which carbon-dating has by Diego Velázquez, while the
and Luke. It is worth shown to be the work of English collection includes
comparing Caravaggio’s Cupid members of his studio. good portraits by rivals
Victorious, whose provocative It is a magnificent tribute Sir Joshua Reynolds and
and distinctly human to his skill as a teacher. Thomas Gainsborough.
sexuality contrasts with
the spiritual orthodoxy of
Heavenly and Earthly Love,
by Giovanni Baglione. Similar
in style, the two paintings
convey opposing ideologies.
Works by Old Masters such
as Giovanni Battista Tiepolo,
Francesco Guardi and Antonio
Canaletto represent the art of
18th-century Venice.

All the most famous

Dutch painters are
represented but the
works of Jan Vermeer
and Rembrandt
attract the greatest Jupiter as a child nourished by the goat
amount of interest. Amalthea (1639) by Nicolas Poussin

160
 Must See

Hans Multscher’s 15th-

century Wurzach Altar

German Painting
The German collection
comprises works from the
13th to 18th centuries. EAT
It includes a fine body of
religious art – notably the Café am Neuen See Vox
side panels of the 15th- For a picturesque, This elegant hotel
century Wurzacher Altar, lakeside break between restaurant serves a
ascribed to Hans Multscher. museums, take a stroll modern fusion of Asian
A real rarity is the Nativity to this Tiergarten and international dishes.
by Martin Schongauer. Often beer garden.  J6
thought of primarily as an  J6 ⌂ Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2
engraver, he was one of the ⌂ Lichtensteinallee 2 ∑ vox-restaurant.de
most significant painters of ∑ cafeamneuensee.de
¡¡¡
the late 15th century but few ¡¡¡
of his paintings have survived.
Ristorante essenza
Another artist known for both
Lindenbräu Enjoy top-notch, creative
his engravings and paintings,
This popular watering Italian fare at this
Albrecht Dürer was a major
hole serves Bavarian pleasant restaurant.
figure in Renaissance art in
specialties and home- The menu is matched with
northern Europe. His works
brewed fruit-flavoured an extensive list of wines
here include Madonna with
wheat beer. and champagnes.
the Siskin and two portraits
of Nürnberg patriarchs.  J6  J6
⌂ Bellevue-strasse 3–5 ⌂ Potsdamer Platz 1
The 17th and 18th centuries
∑ bier-genuss.berlin ∑ ristorante-essenza.de
are represented by the works
of notable artists such as ¡¡¡ ¡¡¡
Adam Elsheimer and Johann
Heinrich Tischbein.

161
 3

POTSDAMER
PLATZ
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

 J6  &  Potsdamer Platz @ 200, M41, M48, M85, N2

∑ potsdamerplatz.de

To experience the vibrant energy of Berlin,

there is no better place to visit than
Potsdamer Platz, where
there is so much to see
and do that visitors will
feel spoilt for choice.
Leipziger
Originally a green park in Platz
1831, this square evolved into
a major traffic hub thanks to
the construction of a railway
station, where the city’s first
ever train made its maiden
journey. During the Roaring
Twenties it was Europe’s
busiest plaza and a bustling
entertainment centre,
frequented by famous artists
and authors. The square was
almost destroyed during
World War II and was left as a
derelict wasteland for several
decades. Redevelopment
began in 1992, and
Potsdamer Platz became
Europe’s largest construction
site, where a total of $25
billion has been invested.
Now the city’s old hub
is once again a dynamic
centre, boasting an array of
entertainment, shopping
and dining opportunities in
splendid modern buildings
designed by architects such
as Renzo Piano, Helmut Jahn
and Arata Isozaki.

PICTURE PERFECT
Light Festival
Potsdamer Platz plays
a leading role in Berlin's
annual Festival of
Lights in October. The
illuminated install­
ations and light displays
are different every
year, and are always
unforgettable.

162
 Must See
The best time to visit the
Sony Center is in the evening,
when the piazza is lit up

1
Sony Center
 J6 ⌂ Potsdamer
Strasse 4 # Open 24 hours
daily ∑ sonycenter.de

The Sony Center is one

of Berlin’s most exciting
architectural complexes,
a glitzy steel-and-glass
construction covering a
breathtaking 4,013 sq m
(43,195 sq ft). The piazza at
the heart of the Center has
become one of Berlin’s most
popular attractions. Set under
a soaring tent-like roof, it is
dominated by a pool with
constantly changing
fountains. The light and airy
piazza is surrounded by the The Sony Center is one of Berlin’s most
offices of Sony’s European
headquarters, as well as
exciting architectural complexes, a glitzy
apartment complexes, steel-and-glass construction covering a
restaurants, cafés and shops. breathtaking 4,013 sq m (43,195 sq ft).
There is also a huge multiplex
cinema and an integrated
IMAX cinema showing nature of Hollywood and the historic museum also features a
and science films on imposing UFA (Universum Film AG) range of other exhibitions
360-degree screens. film studios. The museum with changing themes and
One of the main attractions chronicles the development special film programmes.
in the Sony Center is the of cinema from the first silent Just outside the Sony
Museum für Film und movie hits to the latest Center you’ll find the
Fernsehen (Museum of Film science-fiction productions. LEGOLAND® Discovery
and Television), which gives However, the main focus is Centre. It provides a wonder-
visitors a backstage glimpse on German films from the land of indoor adventure
glorious UFA days in the for young visitors, including
1920s, when Germany’s rides and a 4D cinema, as
leading film company well as hands-on activities
produced one smash hit after like model-building
another at the Babelsberg workshops. There’s also
studios (p265). Films such as a LEGO® factory tour.
The Cabinet of Dr Caligari,
directed by Robert Wiene, and Museum für Film und
Metropolis, by Fritz Lang, are Fernsehen
presented with costumes, set " ' - = ⌂ Potsdamer
sketches, original scripts, Strasse 4 # 10am–6pm Tue,
models and photos. Exhibits Wed & Fri–Sun (to 8pm Thu)
also explore the use of film ∑ deutsche-kinemathek.de
during the Nazi era, when
filmmaking became part of LEGOLAND® Discovery
the propaganda machine. Centre
In addition, the museum " - = ⌂ Potsdamer
The Sony Center is documents the life and work Strasse 4 # 10am–7pm daily
a popular weekend of the actor Kurt Gerron, (last entry 5pm) ∑ legoland
hang-out for Berliners who died in Auschwitz. The discoverycentre.de/berlin

163
 2 The buildings of the Daimler
Daimler Quartier Quartier are considered a
jewel of modern architecture
 J6

This vast complex comprises

19 modern buildings, all along with a restaurant, a
designed in different styles small café and an upmarket
according to an overall plan wine shop. Haus Huth is
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

by architects Renzo Piano also home to Daimler

and Christoph Kohlbecker. Contemporary, a small
The buildings form a long exhibition featuring key
column of magnificent works and new additions
architecture leading from to the corporation’s collec-
Potsdamer Platz all the way tion of 20th-century art.
down to the Landwehr Canal.
The green traffic-light tower Panoramapunkt
marking the beginning of the " - ⌂ Potsdamer Platz 1
Daimler Quartier is a replica of # Times vary, check website
the first automatic traffic light ∑ panoramapunkt.de
in Europe, which was erected
on this very spot in 1924. Daimler Contemporary
One of the highlights of this " ' ⌂ Alte Potsdamer
avenue is the Kollhof Tower Strasse 5 # 11am–6pm daily
skyscraper, which is topped ∑ art.daimler.com
by a 96-m- (315-ft-) high
observation platform called
Panoramapunkt (Panorama
Did You Know?
Point). It offers a breathtaking 3 Potsdamer Platz was
view and can be reached via Arkaden the centre of the city’s
Europe’s fastest elevator. black market during
 J6/7 ⌂ Alte Potsdamer
The Daimler Quartier also the post-war years.
Strasse 7 # 10am–9pm
contains the only historic
Mon–Sat ∑ potsdamer-
building on Potsdamer Platz
platz.net/arkaden
to escape destruction in World
War II: the grey limestone This entertainment and
building of Haus Huth, built shopping complex is spread
for the wine dealer Christian over three floors, and includes 4
Huth in 1912. The best view around 140 shops, restaurants Theatre Complex
of the building is from its and boutiques. The basement
 J6 ⌂ Marlene-Dietrich-
south side where a tiny park houses a food court offering
Platz
offers a place to rest. regional specialities from all
Today the offices of the over Germany. The Arkaden Sited in a square dedicated to
famous car manufacturers is currently undergoing the famous Berlin-born actress
Daimler are located here, extensive renovation. Marlene Dietrich, the city’s
largest musical stage is housed
in the Theater am Potsdamer
Platz, designed by Renzo
Piano. It has staged local musi-
cal productions and German
versions of Broadway hits.
The exclusive Adagio
nightclub is located in the
basement of this building and
Berlin’s most popular casino,
Spielbank Berlin, can be
found here, too.
The theatre complex is
also the main forum for the
city’s annual film festival,
the Berlinale. Over the course
Potsdamer Platz contains an eclectic of the ten-day event, around
mix of modern architectural designs 400 films are shown, most of

164
 Must See

which are world and European At the southern end of

premieres. Book ahead if you Leipziger Platz is the Dalí

EAT
wish to attend. Museum, exhibiting hundreds
of works by the famous
Theater am Potsdamer Surrealist artist. A few doors
Platz down is the German Spy Teehaus im
" ⌂ Marlene-Dietrich- Museum, a multimedia Englischen Garten
Platz 1 # 8am–8pm daily museum exploring the After a few hours
∑ stage-entertainment.de history of secret services exploring the ultra-
around the world, with an modern Potsdammer
Spielbank Berlin emphasis on espionage in Platz, wander through
⌂ Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 Cold War­era Berlin. The the Tiergarten and take
# 11am–5am daily museum exhibits collections in the greenery and
∑ spielbank-berlin.de of authentic and replica lakes for a change of
espionage equipment, and scenery. Slightly hidden
offers various interactive in a small corner of the
experiences such a laser maze park, this cosy café-
5 and Facebook data puzzle. restaurant is nestled in
Leipziger Platz a cottage with a
Mall of Berlin thatched roof and
 J6
\ - = ⌂ Leipziger Pl. 12 surrounded by a small
This small square just east of # 10am-9pm Mon–Sat, formal garden. There is
Potsdamer Platz is becoming 1–7pm Sun ∑ mallofberlin.de a program of free
an exciting hub of its own. concerts and themed
The Mall of Berlin now Dalí Museum evenings during
occupies the site of the former "'-= ⌂ Leipziger Pl. 7 summer time.
Wertheim department store, # Opening times vary, see  G5
once the largest in Europe. It website for details ⌂ Altonaer Str. 2
contains shops and restaur­ ∑ daliberlin.de ¢ Nov–Mar ∑ das-
ants of every variety as well teehaus.jimdo.com
as a hotel, a running club and German Spy Museum
¡¡¡
the XXL slide that winds from " ⌂ Leipziger Pl. 9 # 10am–
the second floor all the way 8pm daily ∑ deutsches-
to the ground­floor atrium. spionagemuseum.de

165
 EXPERIENCE MORE
Wilhelm Furtwängler, Sir Wisniewski and Hans
4 Simon Rattle and the Scharoun between 1979
Philharmonie und controversial Herbert von and 1984, the fascinating
Kammermusiksaal Karajan and Claudio Abbado. Museum of Musical Instruments
The current director is Kirill houses over 750 exhibits in a
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

 I6 ⌂ Herbert-von-
Petrenko, who took up the collection dating from 1888.
Karajan-Strasse 1 § 25 48
position in 2019. The orchestra Intriguing displays enable you
88 00  &  Potsdamer
attained renown not only for to trace each instrument’s
Platz  Mendelssohn-
the quality of its concerts, but development, from the
Bartholdy-Park @ 200,
also through its prolific 16th century to the present
300, M41, M48, M85
symphony recordings. day. You can marvel at the
Home to one of the most The smaller Chamber Music harpsichord of Jean Marius,
renowned orchestras in Hall was added in the 1980s. once owned by Frederick the
Europe, the Philharmonic Designed to complement Great, and the violins made
and Chamber Music Hall is Scharoun’s existing archi­ by Amati and Stradivarius.
among the finest postwar tecture, it features a central Most spectacular of all is
architectural achievements multisided space covered by a the silent­film­era cinema
in Europe. The Philharmonic, fanciful tent­like roof. organ, a working Wurlitzer
completed in 1963 to a design dating from 1929. With
by Hans Scharoun, pioneered a range of sounds that
a new concept in concert hall extends even to locomotive
interiors. The orchestra’s 5"'-= impressions, the demonstr­
podium occupies the central Musikinstrumenten- ations of its powers every
section of the pentagonal hall, Museum Saturday at noon attract
around which are galleries for enthusiastic crowds. However,
 I6 ⌂ Tiergartenstrasse 1
the public, designed to blend at all times throughout the
 &  Potsdamer Platz
into the perspective of the week the sounds of other
@ 200, 300, M41, M48, M85
five corners. The exterior exhibited instruments can
# Times vary, see website
reflects the interior and is be heard via recordings.
for details ¢  Mon
reminiscent of a circus tent. The museum also has an
∑sim.spk-berlin.de
The Berlin Philharmonic excellent archive and library
was founded in 1882 and Hidden behind the open to the public, and its
has been directed by such Philharmonie, in a small calendar of events is full of
luminaries as Hans von Bülow, building designed by Edgar live concerts.

The striking
home of
the Berlin
Philharmonic

166
 and around 110,000
drawings and watercolours.
Sadly, only a small fraction

STAY
of these delicate treasures
can be even briefly exposed
to daylight; therefore the
Das Stue museum does not have a
Located inside a former permanent exhibition, only
embassy, Das Stue galleries with temporary
(“living room” in displays of selected works.
Danish), has a plush and For visitors with a special
playful Nordic-style interest, items in storage
interior that houses a can be viewed in the
Michelin-starred studio gallery by prior
restaurant, Susanne arrangement.
Kaufmann Spa and a The collection
cool cocktail bar. includes work from
every renowned artist
 G6 ⌂ Drakestrasse 1
∑ das-stue.com
from the Middle Ages
to contemporary times.
¡¡¡ Well represented is the
work of Botticelli (including Street organ in the
Ritz Carlton illustrations for Dante’s Divine Musikinstrumenten-
This distinctive Art Comedy), Dürer, Rembrandt Museum collection
Deco skyscraper offers and the Dutch Masters,
one of the classiest Watteau, Goya, Daumier and
stays in the city. It has a painters of the Die Brücke
art movement. 8
couple of great bars, an
atmospheric brasserie St-Matthäus- Kirche
and sumptuous rooms.  I6 ⌂ Matthäikirchplatz
 J6 ⌂ Potsdamer 7"  &  Potsdamer Platz
Platz 3  Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-
∑ ritzcarlton.com
Kunstbibliothek
Park @ 148, 200, M41, M48,
¡¡¡  I6 ⌂ Matthäikirchplatz 6 M85 # 11am–6pm Tue–Sun
 &  Potsdamer Platz ∑ stiftung-stmatthaeus.de
 Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-
St Matthew’s Church once
Park @ 200, M29, M41,
stood in the centre of a
M48, M85 # 10am–6pm
small square surrounded by
Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat &
buildings. After bomb damage
6"\= Sun ∑ smb.museum
in World War II, the structure
Kupferstichkabinett The Art Library is not only a was restored, making it the
collection of a vast range of focal point of the Kulturforum.
 I6 ⌂ Matthäikirchplatz 8
books and periodicals about The church was originally built
 &  Potsdamer Platz
the arts, making it a valuable between 1844 and 1846 to
 Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-
resource for researchers; it is a design by Friedrich August
Park @ 200, M29, M41,
also a museum with a huge Stüler and Hermann Wentzel,
M48, M85 # 10am–6pm
collection of posters, advert­ in a style based on Italian
daily ∑ smb.museum  
isements and an array of Romanesque temples.
The print collections of other forms of design. Worth Each of the three naves is
galleries in the former East seeing is a display on the covered by a separate two­
and West Berlin were united history of fashion, as well as tier roof, while the eastern
in 1994 in the Print Library, a vast collection of items of end of the church is closed
located in the Kulturforum architectural interest. The by a semicircular apse. The
(p176). These displays latter includes around 30,000 exterior is covered in a two­
originated with a collection original plans and drawings tone brick façade arranged in
started by the Great Elector by architects such as Johann yellow and red lines. Ironically,
(p215) in 1652, which has been Balthasar Neumann, Erich this pretty church with its
open to the public since 1831. Mendelsohn and Paul Wallot. slender tower now creates
Despite wartime losses it has The exhibitions can be quite an exotic element
an imposing breadth and can seen in the reading and among the many ultramodern
boast around 2,000 engravers’ studio rooms, and also in and sometimes extravagant
plates, over 520,000 prints the library’s own galleries. buildings of the Kulturforum.

167
 a glass hall, which appears to
9" float in mid­air supported only
Neue Nationalgalerie by six slender interior struts.
The collection comprises

DRINK
 I7 ⌂ Potsdamer Strasse
largely 20th­century art,
50  &  Potsdamer Platz
but begins with artists of
 Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-
the late 19th century, such
Park @ 200, M29, M41, M48, Potsdamer Strasse has
as Edvard Munch, Ferdinand
M85 # Times vary, check come on leaps and
Hodler and Oskar Kokoschka.
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

website ∑ smb.museum bounds over the last

German movements, such
decade, with plenty of
The magnificent collection as Die Brücke (p30), are well
great new drinking
of modern art housed in the represented, with pieces by
spots among the cool
New National Gallery has a Karl Schmidt­Rottluff and
boutiques and galleries.
troubled history. The core Ernst Ludwig Kirchner (notably
of the collection consisted of his evocative oil painting Kumpelnest 3000
262 paintings that belonged Potsdamer Platz).  I7 ⌂ Lützowstrasse
to banker J H W Wagener. In As well as the Bauhaus 23 # 7pm–6am Mon–
Thu, 7pm–8am Fri & Sat
the late 1860s, when Wagener movement, represented
∑ kumpelnest3000.com
died, he bequeathed them by Paul Klee and Wassily
to Crown Prince William, who Kandinsky, the gallery shows
housed them in the National­ works by exponents of a stark Victoria Bar
galerie on Museumsinsel. realism, such as Otto Dix and  I7 ⌂ Potsdamer Str
However, in 1937, a George Grosz. Celebrated 102 # 6:30pm–3am
Nazi programme of cultural artists of other European Sun–Thu, 6:30pm–4am
Fri & Sat
cleansing meant that over 400 countries are also included –
∑victoriabar.de
of the works in the collection, Pablo Picasso, Fernand Léger,
which had grown to include de Chirico, Dalí, René Magritte
paintings by Monet, Manet and Max Ernst. Post­World Tiger Bar
and Renoir, were confiscated. War II art is represented by  I7 ⌂Oh Panama,
Potsdamer Strasse 91
After World War II the Barnett Newman, Frank
# 6pm–midnight Tue–
Berlin municipal authority Stella and many others. The
Sat ∑ oh-panama.com
decided to rebuild the sculpture garden houses
collection and authorized important works, both
the construction of a suitable figurative and abstract.
building in West Berlin to Following reunification,
house it. The commission new works by artists from
was given to the elder states­ the former East Germany
man of modern architecture, were added. Some of the art 0-=
the 75­year­old Mies van is sometimes shown at the Urban Nation
der Rohe. The result is a Hamburger Bahnhof (p124),
 H8 ⌂ Bülowstrasse 7
striking, minimalist building as both museums draw on
 Nollendorfplatz @ 106,
with a flat steel roof over the same collection.
187, M19 # 10am–6pm Tue–
Sun ∑ urban-nation.com

The Urban Nation Museum

For Contemporary Art opened
in 2017 in Schöneberg, though
its roots as an organization
stretch back to 2013. Whereas
the collective behind it, under
the curation of Yasha Young,
had previously used the city’s
surfaces as canvasses for
outdoor street art and
installations, now there is an
indoor space to show them
off, too. As well as exhibiting

Contemporary art shown

by the nonprofit art collective
Urban Nation

168
 Students making use of
the tranquil, informal study
space in the Staatsbibliothek

the work of international and place in which to work. The

local artists, the nonprofit 12 library itself houses more
venue hosts workshops and Staatsbibliothek than four million books and
events – and it’s still possible an excellent collection of
 I7 ⌂ Potsdamer Strasse
to find much of their work on manuscripts. It is formally
33  &  Potsdamer Platz
the streets around the gallery; linked to the Staatsbibliothek
@ 200, M29, M48, M85
look out for the large mural on on Unter den Linden (p68).
# 9am–9pm Mon–Fri (to
the corner of Bülowstrasse
7pm Sat) ∑ staats
and Frobenstrasse.
bibliothek-berlin.de

An unusually shaped building 13

with an east-facing gilded Shell-Haus
q dome, the State Library is
 I7 ⌂ Reichpietschufer 60
Potsdamer Strasse home to one of the largest
 Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-
collections of books and
 I7  &  Potsdamer Platz Park @ 200, M29, M48, M85
manuscripts in Europe and is
 Kurfürstenstrasse,
fondly referred to by Berliners This building is undoubtedly
Bülowstrasse, Kleistpark
as the “Stabi”. After World a gem for lovers of the archi-
@ 104, 106, 187, 204, M19,
War II, East and West Berlin tecture developed during the
M29, M41, M45, M48
each inherited part of the period between World Wars I
A few years ago, Schöneberg’s prewar state library collection and II. This Modernist office
main drag, Potsdamer Strasse, and the Staatsbibliothek was block was designed by Emil
was known for its seedy sex built to house the part Fahrenkamp and was
shops and run-down casinos. belonging to West Berlin. The completed in 1932. The most
These days only slight traces building itself was designed eye-catching wing extends
of this insalubrious past by Hans Scharoun and Edgar along Landwehrkanal with a
remain, as gentrification has Wisniewski and constructed zigzag elevation; from a
ushered in a new generation between 1967 and 1978. height of five storeys it climbs
of shops, galleries, cafés and It is a building where the upwards in a series of steps,
bars. Sitting alongside disciplines of function and finishing up ten storeys high.
established spots like the efficiency take precedence Damaged during World
Victoria Bar (No. 102) and the over that of form. The store War II, Shell-Haus went
charming Joseph Roth-Diele rooms hold about five million through several stages of
at No. 75 are shiny new- volumes; the hall of the vast restoration and multiple
comers: art galleries such as reading room is open-plan, incarnations, including as the
Circle Culture (No. 75) and with an irregular arrangement German navy headquarters
Esther Schipper (No. 81e), of partitions and floor levels; and as a military hospital.
stylish restaurants such as Oh general noise and the sound Beautiful proportions and
Panama (No. 91) and luxury of footsteps is muffled by original design place the
designer shops like Andreas fitted carpets, making the structure among the finest of
Murkudis (No. 81). interior a very quiet and cosy Berlin’s buildings of its era.

169
 India and the Republic of South ha (495 acres). Once a forest
14 Africa. At Tiergartenstrasse used as the Elector’s hunting
Diplomatenviertel Nos. 21–3, the pre-World reserve, it was transformed
War II Italian embassy still into a landscaped park by
 H6  Nollendorfplatz,
stands, while next door is a Peter Joseph Lenné in the
Potsdamer Platz @ 100,
copy of the first Japanese 1830s. A Triumphal Avenue
106, 187, 200
embassy. Between Klingelhöfer- was built in the eastern section
Although a number of strasse and Rauchstrasse of the park at the end of the
consulates existed in the stands an imposing complex 19th century, lined with
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

Tiergarten area as early as of five embassies. Completed statues of the country’s

1918, the establishment of in 1999, these represent rulers and statesmen.
a Diplomatic Quarter along Norway, Sweden, Denmark, World War II inflicted huge
the southern edge of the Finland and Iceland. The damage on the Tiergarten,
Tiergarten, between Stauffen- complex has an art gallery including the destruction of
bergstrasse and Lichtenstein- and café open to the public. the Triumphal Avenue, many
allee, did not take place until of whose surviving monu-
the period of Hitler’s Third ments can now be seen in
Reich, when large embassies the Zitadelle Spandau (p239).
representing the Axis Powers, 15 Replanting, however, has now
Italy and Japan, were built here. Tiergarten restored the Tiergarten, which
Despite the fact that these is a favourite meeting place
 I5  Tiergarten,
monumental buildings were for Berliners. Its avenues
Bellevue @ 100, 106, 187,
designed by a number of are now lined with statues
200, N26
different architects, the of figures such as Johann
Fascist interpretation of This is the largest park in Berlin. Wolfgang von Goethe and
Neo-Classicism and the Situated at the geographical Richard Wagner.
influence of Albert Speer centre of the city it occupies a By the lake known as Neuer
as head architect meant that surface area of more than 200 See and the Landwehrkanal
the group was homogenous,
if bleak. Few buildings sur-
vived World War II bombing.
Today, the diplomatic area
is bounded by Tiergarten-
strasse. The Austrian embassy, Tiergarten
designed by Hans Hollein, in autumn
stands at the junction of (inset) and
Stauffenbergstrasse, next summer
door to the embassies of

SHOP
Andreas Murkudis
One of the first
establishments to
kick off the ongoing
gentrification of this
formerly gritty street,
this huge, white,
bright space stocks a
selection of luxury
goods curated by the
eponymous owner.
 I7 ⌂ Potsdamer
Strasse 81
# 10am–9pm Mon–Sat
∑ andreasmurkudis.com

170
are memorials to the in 1980, the villa became the 1930s. During the same period,
murdered leaders of the headquarters of one of the the Strasse des 17 Juni was
Spartacus movement, most influential cultural widened to twice its original
Karl Liebknecht and Rosa bodies, the Foundation of size, the square surrounding
Luxemburg. Also worth Prussian Cultural Heritage. the roundabout was enlarged
finding is a collection of gas and much of the existing
lamps, displayed near the statuary removed.
Tiergarten S-Bahn station. In the northern section
u of the square stands a vast
Grosser Stern bronze monument to the first
German Chancellor, Otto von
16  G5  Bellevue  Hansa-
Bismarck (1815–98). Around
platz @ 100, 106, 187, N26
Villa von der Heydt it stand allegorical figures,
The Great Star roundabout the work of late 19th-century
 H7 ⌂ Von-der-Heydt-
at the centre of the Tiergarten sculptor Reinhold Begas.
Strasse 18 § 266 41 28 88
is so-named for the five large Other statues represent
 Nollendorfplatz @ 100,
roads that radiate from it. At various national heroes
200, M29
its centre is the enormous including Field Marshal
This fine villa, built in a late Siegessäule (Victory Column; Helmuth von Moltke (1800–
Neo-Classical style, is one of p175). Surrounding it are 91), chief of the Prussian
the few surviving reminders monuments brought over general staff between the
that the southern side of the from the nearby Reichstag years 1858 and 1888, who
Tiergarten was one of the building (p173) in the late won the Franco-German war.
most expensive and beautiful
residential areas of Berlin.
Designed by Hermann Ende LANDWEHRKANAL
and G A Linke, the villa dates Built in the 19th century, Berlin’s Landwehr Canal
from 1862. The neatly mani- meanders through several inner-city districts, passing
cured gardens and railings plenty of interesting sights along the way. As well as
around the villa are adorned the café-lined stretches through Kreuzberg (p178), it
with busts of Christian Daniel also passes Potsdamer Platz (p162), the celebrated Neue
Rauch and Alexander von Nationalgalerie (p168), the distinctive Bauhaus-Archiv
Humboldt. The statues, by (p174) and through the Tiergarten. In summer, stop off
Reinhold Begas, originally at the Tiergarten’s charming Café am Neuen See, where
lined the Triumphal Avenue in you can row on the small lake.
the Tiergarten before being
moved here. After restoration
 18 "
Haus der Kulturen
der Welt
 I5 ⌂ John-Foster-Dulles-
Allee 10  &  Haupt-
bahnhof, Bundestag
@ 100 # 10am–7pm daily
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

∑ hkw.de

The House of World Culture,

designed by the American
architect Hugh Stubbins, was
intended as the American The squat structure and parabolic
entry in the international roof of the Haus der Kulturen der Welt,
architecture competition affectionately called the “pregnant oyster”
“Interbau 1957”, from which
the Hansaviertel apartment
blocks also originated. It soon the 750th anniversary of sector, but formed a kind
became a symbol of freedom Berlin. Suspended in the of non­territorial enclave to
and modernity in West Berlin tower is the largest carillon which Soviet soldiers posted
during the Cold War, partic­ in Europe, comprising 67 to East Berlin had access.
ularly when compared to bells. Daily, at noon and
the GDR­era architecture 6pm, the bells give a brief
of Karl­Marx­Allee (p146) in computer­controlled concert.
East Berlin. p
Unfortunately its roof Schloss Bellevue
failed to withstand the test
of time and the building 19  G5 ⌂ Spreeweg 1
 Bellevue @ 100, 187
partially collapsed in 1980. Sowjetisches
After reconstruction it was Ehrenmal The captivating Bellevue
re­opened in 1989, with a Palace with its dazzlingly
 J5 ⌂ Strasse des 17 Juni
change of purpose: to bring white Neo­Classical façade
 &  Brandenburger Tor
world cultures to a wider is now the official residence
@ 100, 245
German audience via events, of the German Federal
exhibitions and performances. The huge Monument to President, and is a very
It is known for its jazz festi­ Soviet Soldiers near the pretty sight from the north­
vals in particular. Brandenburg Gate was ern edge of the Tiergarten
Standing nearby is the unveiled on 7 November 1945, park. Built in 1786 to a design
black tower of the Carillon, on the anniversary of the start by Michael Philipp Boumann
built in 1987 to commemorate of the October Revolution in for the Prussian Prince August
Russia. Flanked by the first Ferdinand, the palace served
two tanks into the city, the as a royal residence until
monument commemorates 1861. In 1935 it was refur­
over 300,000 Soviet soldiers bished to house a Museum
who perished in the battle of German Ethnology.
for Berlin at the end of World Refurbished again in 1938,
War II. The vast column was it became a hotel for guests
made from marble taken of the Nazi government.
from the headquarters of the Following bomb damage
Chancellor of the Third Reich during World War II, the
when it was being dismantled. palace was carefully restored
The monument is also a to its former glory, with the
cemetery for around 2,500 oval ballroom rebuilt to a
Soviet casualties. Following design by Carl Gotthard
the partition of Berlin, the Langhans. The palace is set
site ended up in the British within an attractive park
laid out to the original late
18th­century design, though
unfortunately the pictur­
A heroic figure standing esque garden pavilions that
watch atop the Sowjetisches once stood here did not
Ehrenmal monument survive World War II.
 EAT
Oh Panama
Swanky spot, with an
artsy interior, offering
global fusion food.
 I8 ⌂ Potsdamer
Strasse 91 ∑ oh-
panama.com

¡¡¡

Joseph Roth Diele

Named after an
Austrian Jewish writer,
this atmospheric venue
serves German cuisine.
 I7 ⌂ Potsdamer
Strasse 75 ∑ joseph-
roth-diele.de

¡¡¡

Facil
This two-Michelin-
starred restaurant
offers a seasonal menu.
 J6 ⌂ Potsdamer
Strasse 3 ∑ facil.de

¡¡¡
Visitors taking an audiotour of the
materials in the Reichstag’s dome,
designed as a spectacular viewing gallery

It was here that in 1918 Philipp On 2 December 1990,

21 ' \ Scheidemann declared the for- the Reichstag was the
Reichstag mation of the Weimar Republic. first meeting place of a
On the night of 28 February newly elected Bundestag
 J5 ⌂ Platz der Republik
1933, a fire destroyed the main following German reunifica-
 Bundestag @ 100, 245
hall. The Communists were tion. On 23 June 1995, the
# 8am–midnight daily
blamed, accelerating a political artist Christo and his wife
¢ Occasionally for cleaning,
witch-hunt driven by the Nazis, Jeanne-Claude wrapped
see website for details
who eventually came to power. the Reichstag in fabric –
∑ bundestag.de
When World War II began, an artistic statement that
Built to house the German the building was not rebuilt. lasted for two weeks.
Parliament, the Reichstag was Yet its significance resonated The latest phase of
intended to symbolize the beyond Germany, as shown by rebuilding, between 1995
national unity and aspirations the photograph of the Soviet and 1999 to a design by Lord
of the new German Empire, flag flying from the Reichstag Norman Foster, transformed
declared in 1871. The Neo- in May 1945, which became a the Reichstag into a modern
Renaissance design by Paul symbol of the German defeat. meeting hall beneath an
Wallot captured the prevailing Between 1957 and 1972, elliptical dome. Visits to the
spirit of German optimism. the dome and most of the cupola’s viewing gallery are
Completed in 1894, it was ornamentation was removed. free and the views are breath-
funded by money paid by the What remained made a spec- taking. Advance registration
French as wartime reparations. tacular backdrop for huge is required, either online or at
The Reichstag became a festivals “and rock concerts, least two hours in advance at
potent symbol that would be much to the annoyance of the service centre on
exploited in the years to come. the East German authorities. Scheidemannstrasse.

173
 The Regierungsviertel’s Marie-Elisabeth-
Lüders-Haus office building (2003) is named
2022
for one of Germany’s first female politicians The year the renovated
and extended Bauhaus-
Archiv will open
with several levels above to the public.
s and below ground. The city’s
Regierungsviertel newest U-Bahn line, the U55,
connects Hauptbahnhof to
 I4  Brandenburger Tor
the Bundestag and Branden- architects. Staff and students
 Bundestag @ 100, 248
burg Gate (p78), and will included Mies van der Rohe,
This bold concept for a eventually be extended to Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky,
government district fit Alexanderplatz (p106). Theo van Doesburg and
for a 21st-century capital was László Moholy-Nagy. The
the winning design in a school moved to Berlin in
competition held in 1992. 1932, but was closed down
Construction of the complex 23 " = by the Nazis in 1933.
was completed in 2003. Axel Bauhaus-Archiv After the war, the Bauhaus-
Schultes and Charlotte Frank’s Archiv was relocated to
 H7 ⌂ Klingelhöfer­
grand design proposed a Darmstadt. In 1964 Walter
strasse 14 § 25 40 02 78
rectangular site cutting across Gropius designed a building
 Nollendorfplatz @ 100,
the meander of the Spree just to house the collection, but
106, 187, M29 ¢ Closed for
north of the Reichstag (p173). it was never realized. The
restoration until 2022  
While many of the buildings archive was moved to Berlin
have been designed by other The Bauhaus school of art, in 1971, where the design was
architects to fit within the started by Walter Gropius in adapted to the new site. The
overall concept, Schultes and 1919, was one of the most gleaming white building with
Frank designed the Bundes- influential art institutions of its distinctive glass-panelled
kanzleramt, opposite the the 20th century. The belief of gables was completed in 1979,
Reichstag – the official the Bauhaus group was that and while the interior is closed
residence of the German art and technology should for renovation, the exterior is
Chancellor. The whole project combine in harmonious unity. magnificent. Some of the
is complemented by the Originally based in Weimar, archive (together with its
neighbouring Hauptbahnhof and from 1925 in Dessau, this Bauhaus shop) can be seen
railway station, an impressive school provided inspiration in its temporary home in the
glass-and-steel construction for numerous artists and Hardenberg Haus, on the

174
corner of Knesebeckstrasse extension to the German 1957. Taking on a World War II
and Hardenbergstrasse, not State Naval Offices. During bomb site, prominent
far from Berlin Zoo (p203). World War II these buildings architects from around the
were the headquarters of the world designed 45 projects,
Wehrmacht (German Army). of which 36 were realized, to
It was here that a group of create a varied residential
24 " officers planned their famous development set in an
Siegessäule and ultimately unsuccessful environment of lush greenery.
assassination attempt on The list of distinguished
 G5 ⌂ Grosser Stern
Hitler on 20 July 1944. Four of architects involved in the
§ 391 29 61  Bellevue
the conspirators were shot in project included Walter
 Hansaplatz @ 100, 106,
the Bendlerblock courtyard, Gropius (Händelallee Nos.
187 # Apr– Oct: 9:30am–
and a monument commem- 3–9), Alvar Aalto (Klopstock-
6:30pm daily; Nov–Mar:
orating this event, designed strasse Nos. 30–32) and Oscar
10am–5pm daily
by Richard Scheibe in 1953, Niemeyer (Altonaer Strasse
The Victory Column is based stands where the executions Nos. 4–14). The development
on a design by Johann were carried out. On the also includes a school, a
Heinrich Strack and was built upper floor of the building is commercial services building
to commemorate Prussia’s an exhibition documenting and two churches.
triumph in the Prusso-Danish the history of the German In 1960, a new headquarters
war of 1864. anti-Nazi movements. for the Akademie der Künste
After further Prussian (Academy of Arts) was built
victories, “Goldelse”, a gilded at Hanseatenweg No. 10.
figure by Friedrich Drake Designed by Werner
representing Victory, was 26 Düttmann, the academy has
added to the top. The Hansaviertel a concert hall, an exhibition
monument stood in front of area, archives and a library. In
 G4  Bellevue
the Reichstag building until front of the main entrance is a
 Hansaplatz
the Nazi government moved magnificent piece, Reclining
@ 100, 106, 187
it here in 1938. The base is Figure, by eminent British
decorated with bas-reliefs This area to the west of sculptor Henry Moore.
commemorating battles. Schloss Bellevue (p172) is
Higher up the column, a home to some of the most Akademie der Künste
mosaic frieze depicts the interesting modern archi- "  G5 ⌂ Hanseatenweg 10
1871 founding of the German tecture in Berlin, built for an #11am–8pm Tue–Sun
Empire. An observation international exhibition in ∑ adk.de
terrace at the top offers
magnificent vistas over Berlin.

25 "
Bendlerblock (Gedenk­
stätte Deutscher
Widerstand)
 H6 ⌂ Stauffenberg­
strasse 13–14 § 26 99 50
00  Potsdamer Platz,
Kurfürstenstrasse @ M29,
M48 # 9am–6pm Mon–Fri
(to 8pm Thu), 10am–6pm
Sat & Sun

The collection of buildings

known as the Bendlerblock
was originally built during
the Third Reich as an

The Siegessäule, or
Victory Column, bathed
in golden sunlight
 A SHORT WALK
AROUND THE
KULTURFORUM
EXPERIENCE Tiergarten

Distance 1 km (0.5 miles) Nearest station

Potsdamer Platz Time 10 minutes
The Kunstgewerbemuseum
The idea of creating a new cultural centre in (Museum of Arts and Crafts)
West Berlin was put forward in 1956. The first contains a unique collection
building to go up was the Berlin Philharmonic of items including fashion and
concert hall, built to an innovative design by furniture, dating from the Middle
Ages to the present day (p156).
Hans Scharoun in 1961. Most of the plans for
the various other components of the Kultur­
forum were realized between 1961 and 1987,
and came from such famous architects as
Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The area is now
a major cultural centre with fascinating
museums and stunning architecture to
enjoy as you explore.

The Kupferstichkabinett
(Gallery of Prints and
Drawings; p167)

The Kunstbibliothek (Art Library) has a

rich collection of books, graphic art and
drawings, many of which are displayed in
its exhibition halls (p167).

Important works by Old Masters

such as Jan van Eyck and Jan
Vermeer are exhibited in the
Gemäldegalerie (p158).

R
UFE
ET SCH
C HPI
REI
L
ANA
HRK
D WE
LAN

Gallery of fashion at the

Kunstgewerbemuseum

176
 Its outside covered in a
Did You Know? layer of golden aluminium,
the Berlin Philharmonie TIERGARTEN
Hans Scharoun was a concert hall is known all
key architect during over the world for its superb
the reconstruction acoustics (p166).
of Berlin after
World War II.
Locator Map
For more detail see p154

The Musikinstrumenten-
Museum (Museum of Musical
Instruments) contains a unique
collection of instruments
dating from the 16th to the
20th centuries (p166).

St-Matthäus-Kirche is a picturesque
19th-century church that stands
out among the modern buildings
S C of the Kulturforum (p167).
H A
R O
U N
S T
R Ä
S S
E

Hans Scharoun designed

the public lending and
E

research Staatsbibliothek
S S

M A T T H Ä I –
K I R C H (State Library) in 1978 (p169).
R A

P L A T Z
S T

SIGISM
UNDS
TRASS
R

E
M E
D A

FINISH
N
T S

0 metres 100
P O

0 yards 100

START

Sculptures by Henry Moore

and Alexander Calder
stand outside the
streamlined building of
the Neue Nationalgalerie,
designed by Ludwig Mies
van der Rohe (p168). The bright exterior of
St-Matthäus-Kirche

177
Café patrons enjoying a summer evening in Kreuzberg

KREUZBERG
The area covered in this chapter is only a part
of the district of the same name. The evolution
of Kreuzberg began in the late 19th century,
when it was a working-class area. After World
War II, unrepaired buildings were abandoned by
those who could afford to move, leaving behind a
population of artists, foreigners, the unemployed
and members of a variety of subcultures.
Kreuzberg has become an area of contrasts,
with luxury apartments next to dilapidated
buildings. Some parts of Kreuzberg are mainly
Turkish, while others are inhabited by affluent
young professionals. The district’s attractions
are its wealth of restaurants and Turkish bazaars,
as well as an interesting selection of nightclubs,
cinemas, theatres and galleries.

179
 POTSDAMER POTSDAMER
LEIPZIGER LEIPZIGER SSE
PLATZ PLATZ
PLATZ PLATZ AROUND AROUND
UNTERUNTER TRA
KRAUSENSKRAUSENS
TRA

STR. STR. Bundesrat DEN LINDEN

Bundesrat DEN LINDEN
PotsdamerPotsdamer
ER ER Platz Platz p62 p62
M

M
DA

DA
ASSE AS
Z I M M E R S T RZ I M M E R S T R

DE

DE
ST

ST
TS

TS

ENA

ENA
Checkpoint Checkpoint

RE

RE
PO

PO H N E R ST R . H N E R ST R .

SE

SE
OM

OM
N I E D E R K I RCN I E D E R K I RC TopographieTopographie
des des Charlie Charlie KE-STR. KE-S

SE
I - D U T S C HI - D U T S C H

M
-PR

-PR
SS
R.

TR.
Terrors Terrors RU D RUD

ASS RAS AN

AN
SE SE
KO CH ST R AS
KO CH ST R AS

T RS A
KST

GIT

GIT
Martin- Martin-

NS

NS

C H A R LO T T

CMHAARRKLO
RSK

MARKGRA
STR E R ST
TER

TER
RE RE

E
KochstrasseKochstrasse

LIN

N EL I N
Gropius-Bau
Gropius-Bau

TR

TR
ASS
IC IC
HP HP

LE-

LE-

AS

AS
IE IE

GRAFENS
STR

DE
TS TS

THE

ER ÖTHE
R IE

R IE
BERN BERN

SE

SE

T T E N ST RT.R A S S E
FRIEDRICH

F RE INESTDRR. I C H
SC C HS C CH BUR BUR
R.

. .

LIN
HÖ H GER GER R
TR

STR STR
GAB

GAB

FENSTRAS
U ÖN U ST R A ST R A

KÖ
ER ER
T

NE FE E FE SSE SSE
A LT A LT

K
RS

RS

BE BE
ANH ANH

ER
R R
Mendelssohn-
Mendelssohn-
R

R
ASKANISCHER ASKANISCHER
ER STRT. TK AM ER STREL
. E E
ME

ME

SAU

SAU
ST RA SS SS EL ST RA SS
GE

GE

Bartholdy-Park
Bartholdy-Park PLATZ PLATZ PU T TK AM PU BE SS BE
R

R
DA

DA

UF

UF

DES

DES

SE
HA HA Anhalter Anhalter
ER

ER

STRASSE

STRASSE
TS

TS

FE FE
NP N P Bahnhof Bahnhof AnhalterAnhalter
BahnhofBahnhof
PO

PO

LA LA
TZ T Z. .
.

R R
TR

TR

LÜ LÜ Köthener Köthener
Mendelssohn- Mendelssohn- ST ST
LS

LS

R R
TZ
OW
TZ
OW Brücke Brücke
Bartholdy Bartholdy GE Berlin
GE Story
Berlin
Bunker
Story Bunker NN- NN-
EL

EL

ST ST Park ER
Park ER EMA EMA
HED RASSE HED RASSE
TW

TW

RA RA B B
SS
E
SS
E NE NE ST ST
HÖ HÖ
OT

OT

ST

ST
Schöneberger
Schöneberger
C C
TempodromTempodrom JüdischesJüdisches
Museum Museum
FL

FL

S Lapidarium S Lapidarium

RE

RE
TIERGARTEN
TIERGARTEN Brücke Brücke Berlin Berlin

SE

SE
H A LL H A LL

W IALN

WILHELMSTRASSE
ES CH ES CH
HA

HA

SE

SE
p152 p152

M
TEM

TEM

E ST R E ST R
A SS E A SS E

AN
AS

AS
SSE SSE
LL E

LL E

ÜHS-STRA ÜHS-STRA

LIN

LIN
Kön

HELMSTRASSE
F R A N Z- K L F R A N Z- K L
PEL

PEL

TR

TR

NS

NS
ST R A SS R EN -

ST R A SS R EN -
(
SC H

SC H
HO F

HO F

NS

NS

DEN

DEN
TR

TR
LUC LUC

E
ER

ER
KEN KEN

B EE

B EE
ES

ES

STRAWALDER STRAWALDER

AS

AS
ER

ER

E
Mehring-Mehring-
CK

CK

STR

A LT STR
SSE SSE F FE Möckernbrücke
Möckernbrücke
E -

E -

SE

SE
U

U
SS ITZ

SS ITZ

G RO SS

G RO SS
E
UF

UF

platz platz
MÖ

MÖ

Gleisdreieck
Gleisdreieck R R R R
RA W

RA W

Hebbel Hebbel

ASS

AS
ST N E

ST N E

Möckernbrücke
Möckernbrücke e h r
N

kLaannadl w e h r kHaAn a lTheatre

H A L Theatre
DE

DE

Landw B R A N D E SS T RB. R A N D E SS T R .

E
L LES LES
Nelly- Nelly- CHE CHE
Sachs- Sachs- Deutsches
Deutsches TEM
PEL
T ESMU F E
P E LR
SU
FER HalleschesHallesches
Tor Tor
Park Park Technikmuseum
Technikmuseum Science Center
Science Center HO
FER
HO
FER
Mehring- Mehring-
Berlin Berlin SpectrumSpectrum UFE
R
UFE
brücke R brücke
ER ER

TR.
OBEN OBEN - UF
W A T E R L O OW A T E R L O O - UF
TR A U TR A U

ER S
TS TR TS TR BLÜCHER- BLÜCHER-
ASSE ASSE
SE

SE

PLATZ PLATZ JOHA

ZOS SEN

ZOS SEN
OBEN OBEN
MÖCKERNSTRASSE

MÖCKERNSTRASSE

TR TR A U
TRAS

TRAS

A U TS TS TR
TR A S ASSE
T R AS S E T R AS S E
SE
B L Ü C H E RB SL Ü C H E R S
RENS

RENS

WA R TE WA R TE
NBUR
G ST R
NBUR
A SS E
G ST R
A SS E
FriedhöfeFriedhöfe
vor dem vor dem
Halleschen
Halleschen
Tor Tor
SBEE

SBEE

Rathaus Rathaus
Park amPark am Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
GROS

GROS

HOR HOR STR AS SE STR AS SE

D
BA RU TH ER BA RU TH ER

AL
NST NST

S S T R .ST R.

WR.
Gleisdreieck
Gleisdreieck RAS RAS

ST
SE SE Mehringdamm
Mehringdamm

TEN
SSTR.
YO R YO R
M

ER

M I TER
CKS CKS

S
SE

E
TRA TRA
AM

AM

ZO SS EN

ZO SS EN
SS

SSE SSE
YOR Y OYorckstrasse
Yorckstrasse SE SE
SSTOR LAM

SOLM
STRAS
SE

SE

CKS RCK S S
RA RA
GD

GD

TR. STR
TRAS

TRAS

. T T GN GN
KS KS RiehmersRiehmers EIS EIS
RIN

RIN

Yorckstrasse
Yorckstrasse RC RC EN
AU
E N Gneisenau-Gneisena
AU
YO YO Hofgarten
Hofgarten
SSE

SSE

RENS

RENS

STR S strasse stras

ASS TRASS
I T Z-

I T Z-

Yorckstrasse
Yorckstrasse
MEH

MEH

H AG E L B E RGH AG E L B E RG
BAUTZENER STRA

BAUTZENER STRA

ER ER E E
ST R A S S E ST R A S S E
NOST

NOST
SBEE

SBEE
MÖCK ERNS TR.

MÖCK ERNS TR.

KATZBACHS TR.

KATZBACHS TR.

ER ST R.

ER ST R.

Bergmann-Bergmann-
GROS

GROS

RI EM AN RI EM AN
N ST RA N ST RA
strasse strasse SS E SS E
ZO SS EN

ZO SS EN

E E
TRASS TRASS
B E RRGESU Z B E R G S BER BER
KREUZ K GMA GMA
A M T E MTPREALSHO F E R B E R G

A M T E M P E L HO F E R B E R G

NNS NNS
TRA TRA
SSE SSE
MARHEINEKE- MARHEI
PLATZ PLA
S
SE

SE

ARND A
TSTRA RNDTSTRA
Viktoriapark
Viktoriapark
RAS

SSE SSE
MONUM MO
E N T EN U M E N T E CHAMISSO- CHAMISSO-
T HG D A M M

MEHRINGDAMM
K ATZBACHSTR ASSE

K ATZBACHSTR ASSE

N S T R A S S EN S T R A S S E
LST

PLATZ PLATZ
LS

W IL LI BA W IL
LD -A LE LI BA LD -A LE
Nationaldenkmal
Nationaldenkmal
SSE

SSE

XI S- ST XI S- ST
R. R.
FRIESENSTRASSE

FRIESENSTRASSE
FE

FE

FIDIC F
INSTR IDICINSTR
ASSE ASSE
TH

M E H RMIEN
ME

Platz PlatzS C H W I E B U SS SC EHRW I E B USSTSREARS S E STRASSE

der Luftbrücke
der Luftbrücke
K O L O N N EKNOSLTORNANSESN
ESTRASSE D U D E N SDT U D SE SNES T R A S S E
RA

PLATZ DER PLATZ

C ODER
LUM COLUM
E E LUFTBRÜCKER B I A D A M MB I A D A M M
LUFTBRÜCKER
A SS A SS
TR TR
TEMPELHOFER DAMM

TEMPELHOFER DAMM

-S -S
N N
F
E
F
E Flughafen
Flughafen
Tempelhof
Tempelhof
H
O
H
O and Tempelhofer
and Tempelhofer
Feld Feld
T T
H

H
IC

IC
-R

-R
N-

N-
VO

VO
D-

D-
RE

RE
NF

NF
MA

MA

KREUZBERG
KREUZBERG 0 metres 0 metres 500 N 500 N Tempelhofer
Tempelhofe
Feld Feld
0 yards 0 yards 500 500
 KÖ KÖ
Heinrich-Heine-
Heinrich-Heine-
SSE MUSEUMSINSEL
MUSEUMSINSEL Strasse Strasse
PE
NI
CK
PE
NI
CK
E E
.

.
p82 p82 R S R S
TR

KO

TR
KO AN AN

E
MM MM TR TR

SE

SE
R-S

R-S
N N AS AS

SS

SS
AN AN

BA

BA
DA DA EN EN SE SE
NT NT
GE

GE

RA

RA
ST

ST
EN EN ST ST

IAN

IAN
ST ST R. R.
RIN

RIN

R. R.

ST

ST
ST

ST
-SP

-SP

SSE

RA

RA

-
EL

EL

NE

NE
KO

KO

SS

SS
AX

AX

MM

MM

EI

EI
STR. AN

AN

E
-H

-H
DA HEINRICH- HEINRICH-

DA

SS

SS
NT HEINE- HEINE-

NT

CH

CH

RA

RA
PLATZ PLATZ
R.

EN

EN S
OR Waldeckpark
OR Waldeckpark
TR

AN AN - -

RI

RI
ST

ST

S T TA
EN EN

ST

ST
FE FE
Engel- Engel-
NS

ST
ILN ILN IE IE IN RIN
R.

R. LL
N S ANDRR. M M
EN

IN

IN
AL
ER ER NS ND . M M
ST ST becken becken DA DA
DE

X A ST R

LS
R. R. TR TLERX ST

SC
ENG EL ENG EL
E

HE

HE
AS AS

CH
A A L

HR
LIN

RI RI SE SE

RE
EI
TT TT

IB
BE
ER ER

-
ER
- -

R- T R .

RT

RT
- ST R
S

BE

BE
.

D A I E N - ST R .
ST R
ST ST Moritzplatz
Moritzplatz

.
ALFRED- ALFRED-
R RA

AL

AL
ER

L E G AUER
AS
Berlinische
Berlinische SS DÖBLIN- DÖBLIN-W A WA MARIANNEN- MARIANNEN-

DA IEN-
SE LD LD

KAU
E PLATZ PLATZ

AD

AD
PLATZ PLATZ

MM

MM
E EM
Galerie Galerie Moritzplatz O
Moritzplatz
MA AR

K
R-

LEG
OR -

LUC

LUC
RA AN
NIE IEN ST ST
E

Prinzessinnen-
Prinzessinnen-
NS RA RA
ASS

ASS

ST SS SS
gar ten gar ten T R .
E

R. NA NA E E
SS

SS

PR

PR
U UN
ORANIEN- ORANIEN- N Y N - YN
I N ST R

I N ST R
RA

RA
STR

STR

STR . STR . ST R -ST

E R- E R- ZE A

ZE A
PLATZ PLATZ R.
E

.
ST

ST

TL TL Museum Museum
SS

SS

SS SS

SS SS
NS NS
OB

OB

EN

EN

-KÜ -KÜ IN E

IN E
RA

RA

NZ NZ der Dingeder Dinge

R.

R.
NE

NE
FRA FRA
IN

IN

RI RI
JAK

JAK

.
ST

ST

ST

ST
TT TT
TR

TR
DR

DR

- D ST R A S
ER ER
CK

CK

D R ET R A S S
DAMLENZ-

DAMLENZ-
DAMITZ-

DAMITZ-

RT

RT
ST ST OR OR
NS

NS
AN

AN

RES
nig Gallery
König Gallery
M

M
RA RA

S
AN AN
BE

BE

M
SEG

SEG

BE

BE
SDE E
SS SS
EX

EX

IEN IEN
ZE

ZE

D E NS E
E

E
(St Agnes)(St Agnes) E E
LO

LO

AS ED-

AS ED-

ERK

ERK
- -

AL

AL
AL

AL

IN

IN

NER
HEINRICH- HEINRICH-
SE

SE

ER
SO36 SO36
S T RG F R I

S T RG F R I

AD

AD
PR

PR

KREU
KRZB
EUER
ZGBERG
PLATZ PLATZ
E

NEU NEU
EN ST ST
A LT

EN WA WA
STR BURG S BU RA RA
R

SS SS
ASS ER TRASS RGER SS SS
BE

BE

E E MO MO ER
TO
ER
TO KottbusserKottbusser
Tor Tor E E
RIT RIT RS RS
ZS
TR
ZS
TR
TR
AS
TR
AS Kottbusser
Kottbusser
SE SE SK ALITZER S T R A S S ES T R A S S E
SK ALITZER
SE

. .
. Tor Tor
RE RE
Prinzenstrasse
Prinzenstrasse WASSERTOR- WASSERTOR- ICH ICH
EN EN

.
r

ST R

ST R
PLATZ PLATZ
KO T

KO T
G I T S C HGI N
I TESRC H SI N
T RE AR S SSET R A S S E BE BE
SE

SE RG RG
BÖCKLER ST R

BÖCKLER ST R

ER ER
Sommerbad Sommerbad
.

TBU

TBU
AS

AS

KO KO
ST R

ST R

E
M

ST ST

-
HL HL

SS

SS
EN

EN
Kreuzberg KreuzbergBöckler- Böckler- RA RA
AM

AM
M

FU FU
TR

TR

RT RT SS SS
AM

AM
EN

EN

RA

RA
.

NN

NN
ST R

ER ER E E
SSE

SSE
ZD

ZD

Waterloobrücke
Waterloobrücke
NZD

NZD

ST

ST
LS

LS
INZ

INZ

RIA

RIA
park park
GIT

GIT

STR STR

EL

EL
NER

RS

RS
ELE

ELE

RA

RA

MA

MA
La nd we hr La nd we hr
PR

PR

AS AS
SE SE

FF

FF
JOHA
SE

SE

ka na l ka na l
.

A NN NN I
ERK

ERK

MI

MI

TR.

TR.
I TE

EU

EU
T ECRA R L -
R- - U RF LE -RH E R Z - U FBaerwaldbrücke
H E R ZC- A ER Baerwaldbrücke
ST ST UFE R UFE R

NT

NT
AD

AD

RA RA EL EL
.

SS SS NK NK
R

MA

MA
Urba U Kottbusser Kottbusser
nhaf rbanhaf
ST

ST

E E AE AE
FR FRR
EN

EN

R
R.

R.

WI LM SS TR WI LM SS TR en en FE F E Brücke Brücke
RR

RR

ST

ST

. .
Admiralbrücke L A N U
Admiralbrücke NU
HE

HE

A
LD

LD

P PL
EL

EL

WA

WA
MP

MP
S E R-

S T RA SA L D E R -

TE

TE

URB URB
ER

ER
DE

KO

KO

ANS ANS
SE

TRA TRA
BA

BA

SSE SSE
S T RA S

TT

TT
MTIRT T E N
BL

BL
ÜC

ÜC

BU

BU
.

DI DI
HE

HE
TR

EF EF
R-

SS R-

SS

Schönleinstrasse
N B Schönleinstrasse
FE FE
RS

RS
ST

ST

NB
SS

SS
HE

HE

RA

RA

AC AC
R.

R.

HS HS
E R M AC

E R M AC

TR TR
ST

ST

ER

ER

AS AS
au- SE SE
LD

LD

UR UR
sse BA BA
SCHLEI

SCHLEI

WA

WA

NS NS
ST

ST
ER

ER

TR TR
AS AS
BA

BA

RA

RA

SE SE
SS

SS
ST RA SSAC HE R-

ST RA SSAC HE R-

E
E

E
ER M

ER M
SC HL EI

SC HL EI

KREUZBERG
INEKE-
ATZ

Must Sees y Moritzplatz

1 Jüdisches Museum Berlin u Checkpoint Charlie
2 Deutsches i Bergmannstrasse
Technikmuseum Berlin o Viktoriapark
p Flughafen Tempelhof
Experience More
and Tempelhofer Feld
3 Science Center Spectrum
a Riehmers Hofgarten
4 Berlin Story Bunker
s Friedhöfe vor dem
5 Martin-Gropius-Bau Halleschen Tor
6 Anhalter Bahnhof
7 Sommerbad Kreuzberg
Eat
8 Mehringplatz 1 Tomasa

9 Admiralbrücke 2 Defne

0 SO36 3 Cocolo

q Kottbusser Tor
Drink
w Museum der Dinge
4 Luzia
er e Berlinische Galerie
r Topographie des Terrors Shop
t König Gallery (St Agnes) 5 Voo Store
 1"'-=

JÜDISCHES
MUSEUM BERLIN
EXPERIENCE Kreuzberg

 L7 ⌂ Lindenstrasse 9–14  Hallesches Tor, Kochstrasse

@ M29, M41, 248 # 10am–7pm daily ¢ Some Jewish hols ∑ jmberlin.de

The Jewish Museum is a mix of exhibition spaces, archives and

gardens that bring the memories and stories of Jewish culture alive.

Designed by Daniel Libeskind, a Polish-Jewish programme to illustrate the history and

architect based in the United States, the culture of Germany’s Jewish community,
Jüdisches Museum complex is an exciting and the repercussions of the Holocaust.
and imaginative example of late 20th-century The long, narrow galleries with slanting
architecture. The complex contains a library floors and sharp zigzagging turns are
and gardens, but the highlight is the Libeskind designed to evoke the feeling of loss
Building itself, whose shape, style and interior and dislocation. These are interspersed
arrangement are part of a philosophical by “voids” that represent the vacuum
left behind by the destruction of Jewish
life and culture.

Iron plate faces (inset) cry up at

visitors where they lie discarded on
the floor in Menashe Kadishman’s
Shalekhet installation
 Must See

The Garden of Exile

symbolizes the forced exile
of Germany’s Jews

MUSEUM GUIDE
Entrance to the main museum
(the Libeskind Building) is via
an underground tunnel. The
exhibition is divided into 14
sections, taking visitors through
German Jewish history and
The Libeskind Building is culture from early history up
likened to a deconstructed to the present day.
Star of David
 2"'\-=

DEUTSCHES
TECHNIKMUSEUM
BERLIN
EXPERIENCE Kreuzberg

 J8 ⌂ Trebbiner Strasse 9  Gleisdreieck @ M29, M41 # 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri,

10am–6pm Sat & Sun ∑ sdtb.de/stiftung/startseite

The Museum of Technology takes visitors on a multimedia journey through

recent human history by exploring its technological achievements.

A Grand-Scale Museum
The Museum of Technology was established
by grouping together more than 100 smaller,
specialized collections under one roof. The
current collection is arranged on the site of
a former trade hall, the size of which allows
many of the museum’s exhibits – such as
locomotives, aircraft, boats and water towers –
to be displayed full-size and in their original
condition. Highlights of the collection include
vintage cars and motorcycles, and dozens
of locomotives and railway carriages from
different eras. There are also exhibitions
dedicated to flying, printing, weaving, engi-
neering and computer technology. Adjacent
to the museum is a beautiful park contain-
ing two windmills and the museum’s rail Modern exterior of the Deutches
transport exhibit in the former Anhalter Technikmuseum Berlin on the banks
Bahnhof station. of the Landwehr Canal

Did You Know?

EAT The plane on the

museum’s roof is a Douglas
C-47B Skytrain “Raisin
Tomasa Bomber” dating from
This red-brick villa has a 1948–9.
well-stocked playroom,
a great kids’ menu and a
courtyard and garden.
It‘s a good spot for
breakfast or brunch
before the museum,
which is a pleasant
1.5 km (1 mile) walk
away through Park am
Gleisdreieck.
 J10 ⌂ Kreuzberg­
strasse 62 # 9am–
midnight Sun–Wed (to
1am Thu) ∑ tomasa.de

¡¡¡ Three floors are

dedicated to shipping
and navigation

184
 Must See

The Aerospace exhibition

celebrates 200 years of
German aviation

185
 EXPERIENCE MORE
3"-
Science Center
Spectrum
EXPERIENCE Kreuzberg

J8 ⌂ Möckernstrasse 26
 Anhalter Bahnhof
 Möckernbrücke, Gleis­
dreieck @ M29, M41, 248
# Opening times vary,
see website for details
∑ sdtb.de/spectrum

This annexe to the Deutsches

Technikmuseum (p184) focuses
on interactive exhibits. With its
own distinct building next to
the main museum, it occupies
some 1,400 sq m (15,000 sq ft)
of space across four floors, and
features around 150 interactive
exhibits arranged by themes Colour-mixing, just one of the absorbing interactive
such as Sound, Light & Sight activities on offer at the Science Center Spectrum
and Power. There’s a big room
full of cars and motorbikes,
a rainbow suspended in the
air without the use of water, 4" 5"
and masses of hands-on Berlin Story Martin-Gropius-Bau
experiments, including swings Bunker
 K7 ⌂ Niederkirchner
and bridges to operate, the
 J7 ⌂ Schöneberger Strasse 7 (corner of
option to create colour tones
Strasse 23A  Anhalter Stresemannstrasse) § 25
by mixing light surfaces
Bahnhof  Mendelssohn­ 48 60  &  Potsdamer
originating from real sunlight,
Bartholdy­Park @ M29, Platz @ 200, M29, M41
and a Foucault’s Pendulum
M41 # 10am–7pm daily # 10am–7pm Wed–Mon
that shows how the earth
∑ berlinstory.de
rotates. Last but not least The innovative Martin-
there’s a fun hall of mirrors The bunker that houses Gropius-Bau building was
for some stretchy selfies. this idiosyncratic museum originally built to fulfil the
was used during the war by requirements of an arts
those working in and living and crafts museum. It was
around the nearby Anhalter designed by Martin Gropius
Bahnhof train station, which with the participation of
DRINK is now a memorial ruin. Today
it contains the Berlin Story
Heino Schmieden and
constructed in 1881. The
Museum, which illuminates building’s style is reminiscent
Luzia
some of the most significant of an Italian Renaissance
One of the district’s
aspects of Berlin’s 800-year palace, with a magnificent
most popular pre-club
history through multimedia glazed interior courtyard,
bars. A welcoming and
stations that combine an impressive atrium and
quirky mix of exposed
photographs, films and art unusual, richly decorated
brick walls, street art
installations. elevations. Located between
murals and floor-to-
A separate exhibition the windows are the crests of
ceiling windows
was added in 2017 entitled German cities, and within the
that are ideal for
“Hitler – how could it happen.” friezes are reliefs illustrating
people-watching.
It follows the timeline of different arts and crafts. In
 O7 ⌂ Oranienstrasse Adolf Hitler’s rise and fall the plaques between the
34 § 30 81 79 99 58
via photographs, films, windows of the top storey
# noon–5am daily
documents and recreations are beautiful mosaics
of parts of the infamous containing allegorical figures
Führerbunker (p76). representing the cultures of

186
different eras and countries. family. It was once Berlin’s
From 1922 Martin-Gropius- largest ,and Europe’s second-
Bau accommodated the largest, railway station.
Museum of Ethnology, but The hugely ambitious Did You Know?
after World War II the building structure was designed by
was abandoned and left in Franz Schwechten and Kreuzberg is also known
ruins. Although plans for constructed in 1880. The as X-Berg (based on
an inner-city motorway station was intended to be “kreuz”, which means
threatened it until the 1970s, the biggest and most elegant “cross” in German).
a reconstruction programme in Europe in order to impress
eventually commenced in official visitors to the capital
1981, led by architects of the German Empire. Some
Winnetou Kampmann and of the most famous people to front portico remains,
Ute Weström. alight at Anhalter Bahnhof crowned by still-damaged
This was followed in 1999 were the Italian King Umberto, sculptures and the hole that
by a further refurbishment, who was welcomed by Kaiser housed a large electric clock,
and since then the building Wilhelm II himself, and the as well as fragments of its
has housed a changing Russian Tsar Nicholas. once glorious façade. On
series of exhibitions on art, The station was taken out the vast grounds behind
photography and architecture. of public use in 1943 after rises the soaring, tent-like
its roof was destroyed by roof of the entertainment
Allied bombing. Only the venue, Tempodrom.
6
Anhalter Bahnhof HANSA-TONSTUDIO
 K7 ⌂ Askanischer Platz Hansa Studio is one of Berlin’s most famous music
6–7  Anhalter Bahnhof recording studios. Built in 1912, it has recorded albums
 Potsdamer Platz, by such internationally renowned names as David
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy- Bowie, Depeche Mode, U2 and R.E.M., as well as German
Park @ M29, M41 luminaries such as Nina Hagen and Udo Jürgens. Only
one studio is active these days, but it’s possible to tour
Only a tiny fragment now the building and also see the rooms where many of
remains of the Anhalter these prominent artists once recorded.
Bahnhof station, which was
named after the Saxon royal

Fragment of the Anhalter

Bahnhof, once the gateway
to southern Germany
 hit film, too. While not the Christian Daniel Rauch.
most refined of the city’s Two sculptures were added
pools, its two 50­m (164­ft) in the 1870s: Peace by Albert

SHOP
pools are hugely popular Wolff and Clio (the Muse
not only for their outdoor of History) by Ferdinand
location, but also because Hartzer. In the 19th and
Voo Store they’re big on character. early 20th centuries the
Situated inside a former Expect to find a rich and area was populated with
locksmiths, this varied mix of people, politicians, diplomats and
EXPERIENCE Kreuzberg

swanky industrial- including hipsters, Middle aristocrats, and in 1947

design shop sells a Eastern families, elderly the square was named after
highly curated mix of Berliners and water­sliding the writer Franz Mehring.
clothing, home decor youngsters, gathered The current buildings
and fashion accessories. here on any warm day. date from the 1970s.
Great coffee shop, too.
 O8 ⌂ Oranienstrasse
24 # 10am–8pm Mon–
Sat ∑ vooberlin.com
8 9
Mehringplatz Admiralbrücke
 L8  Hallesches Tor  N8/9 ⌂ Fraenkelufer/
@ 248, M41 Planufer  Kottbusser
Tor & Schönleinstrasse
Mehringplatz was planned
7" in the 1730s when the
@ 140, M41
Sommerbad boundaries of the city were Built in 1882, the oldest
Kreuzberg extended. Its original name steel­made bridge in
was Rondell, meaning “circus”, Berlin is like a cultural
 M8 ⌂ Prinzenstrasse
an appropriate name, as heritage site and a pop­
113–119 § 30 22 19 00 11
Wilhelmstrasse, Friedrich­ ular hangout spot for
 Prinzenstrasse @ 140,
strasse and Lindenstrasse locals and tourists.
248 # 7am–8pm daily
all converged here. Connecting the banks
Known more commonly Rondell was originally of the Landwehrkanal,
as Prinzenbad due to its the work of Philipp Gerlach; the bridge attracts a
proximity to the Prinzen­ then, in the 1840s, Peter mostly young crowd
strasse U­Bahn station, this Joseph Lenné designed who come here on sunny
cult Kreuzberg swimming the decoration of the square. summer days to stroll
pool was made famous At the centre is the Column along the canal’s banks,
by its appearance in Sven of Peace, commemorating chat, drink store­bought
Regener’s 2001 book Herr the Wars of Liberation in beer and listen to street
Lehmann – and it subse­ 1815. The column is crowned musicians who play well
quently featured in the by the figure of Victory by into the night.

People relaxing on
the Admiralbrücke
in the evening

188
 be disregarded, these days
it’s mostly frequented by
a mix of local families and
hipsters who congregate at
weekends in search of the
many inconspicuous bars
and clubs – Monarch, Palermo,
Möbel Olfe – as well as the
mix of cheap falafel spots
and trendy US-style burger
joints like The Bird.

w"'=
People outside alternative music venue SO36, known Museum der Dinge
for its techno and indie sounds
 O8 ⌂ Oranienstrasse 25
 Kottbusser Tor @ 140,
M29 # noon–7pm Thu–Mon
specials such as roller discos,
∑ museumderdinge.de
Turkish LGBT+ pop event
Gayhane and even the Kreuzberg’s Museum of
Did You Know? occasional flea market. Things houses the archive
of the Deutscher Werkbund:
Kreuzberg has long been
a federation of craftsmen,
a prominent district
designers, architects and
for Berlin’s LGBT+ q manufacturers, formed in
community.
Kottbusser Tor 1907, which was a forerunner
of the more famous Bauhaus.
 N8 ⌂ Kottbusser Strasse
Both movements aimed to
 Kottbusser Tor
make well-designed, high-
@ 140, M29, N8
quality goods available to all,
0"= Nicknamed “Little Istanbul”, and the shelves and cabinets
SO36 Kottbusser Tor has long been in this airy space are stacked
the Turkish heartland of inner with a fascinating array of
 O8 ⌂ Oranienstrasse
city Berlin. Originally a city everyday items, from Manoli
190  Kottbusser Tor
gate leading to the city of ashtrays and Art Deco fondue
@ M29, 140 # 9pm–5am
Cottbus, today it’s ostensibly sets to GDR-era toiletries.
Tue–Sat ∑ so36.de
a roundabout surrounded by One of the museum’s
One of Berlin’s best-known 1970s- and 1980s era residen- main attractions, in a room
alternative music venues, tial housing bedecked with of its own, is the “Frankfurt
SO36 – the name is a tell-tale satellite dishes (so Kitchen”; designed by Viennese
reference to the district’s that residents can tune into architect Margarete Schütte-
Berlin Wall-era postal code – Turkish and Middle Eastern Lihotzky in 1926, its folding
grew famous during the TV channels). It’s a vibrant cupboards, countertops and
1970s and 1980s, when it area whether day or night, slew of appliances makes it a
was run by artist Martin with a constant flow of direct forerunner of today’s
Kippenberger and hosted foot and car traffic and a standard fitted kitchens.
punk and post-punk acts such procession of food markets, There’s a a decent gift shop
as Einstürzende Neubauten, street vendors and coffee featuring plenty of designer-
Iggy Pop and Nick Cave. Today shops. Although its reputa- friendly objects and a range
it regularly hosts big-name tion for low-level crime can’t of related books.
bands, mostly of a rock and
indie persuasion, as well as
up-and-coming local bands
in its basic, large main room.
Look out also for regular

Early electric
kettles at the
Museum der Dinge

189
 A juxtaposition of
white space and 14 "
colour (inset) at the Topographie
Berlinische Galerie des Terrors
 K7 ⌂ Stresemannstrasse
110 (entrance on Nieder­
The museum’s collection of
kirchner Strasse 8)
sketches, prints and posters
 &  Potsdamer Platz,
encompasses the Berlin
Kochstrasse  Anhalter
Dadaists George Grosz,
Bahnhof @ M29, M41
Hannah Höch and Werner
# 10am–8pm daily
Heldt, as well as works by
∑ topographie.de
Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and
Hanns Schimansky. During the Third Reich,
13 " Among the architectural three of the most terrifying
Berlinische Galerie items held by the Galerie Nazi political departments
are drawings and models had their headquarters in a
 L7 ⌂ Alte Jakobstrasse
for buildings that were never block here, making this area
124–8  Kochstrasse
built, offering fascinating the government district of
@ 248, M29 # 10am–6pm
glimpses into how the city National Socialist Germany.
Wed–Mon ∑ berlinische
might have looked. A fine Prinz-Albrecht palace at
galerie.de
example is the shell-like Wilhelmstrasse No. 102
The city’s museum for modern Expressionist Sternkirche became the headquarters of
art, design and architecture (Star Church), designed by the Third Reich’s security ser-
is one of the finest regional Otto Bartning in 1922. vice (SD). Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse
museums in the country.
Changing themed exhibitions
draw upon its huge collection THE BERLIN BLOCKADE (1948–9)
of German, East European On 24 June 1948, due to rising tensions between East
and Russian paintings, Germany and West Berlin, Soviet authorities blockaded
photographs, graphics and all the roads leading to West Berlin. In order to ensure
architectural artifacts. food and fuel for the residents, US General Lucius Clay
One of the highlights is ordered that provisions be flown into the city. British
the 5,000-strong painting and American planes made a total of 212,612 flights,
collection, which covers all transporting almost 2 million tonnes (2.3 million tons)
the major art movements of goods, among which were parts of a power station.
from the late 19th century In April 1949, at the height of the airlifts, planes were
until today. It includes works landing every 63 seconds. The blockade ended in May
by Max Liebermann (p245), 1949. Although the airlifts were successful, there were
Otto Dix, Georg Baselitz, casualties: 70 airmen and 8 ground crew lost their lives.
Alexander Rodchenko, Iwan
Puni and Via Lewandowsky.

190
 features two distinctive
spaces – one on the main floor 17
and one on an upper floor sup­ Checkpoint Charlie
ported by a concrete slab – plus
 L6 ⌂ Friedrichstrasse
a sculpture garden that also
43–45  Kochstrasse
forms part of the exhibitions.
@ M29
In addition to solo shows and
group exhibitions, the gallery Between 1961 and 1990,
hosts regular readings, perfor­ Checkpoint Charlie was
mances and presentations. the only crossing point for
There’s a pleasant café inside foreigners between East and
too, and some of the surround­ West Berlin. During that time,
ing buildings are used by it represented a symbol of
artists during their residencies. both freedom and separation
for the many East Germans
trying to escape from the GDR
regime. It was also witness
16 to dramatic events during the
Moritzplatz Cold War, including a tense two­
day standoff between Russian
N7  Moritzplatz
and American tanks in 1961.
@ 140, M29
No. 8 was occupied by the head Little remains of the
of the Gestapo, Heinrich Müller, For several decades – before checkpoint: no gates, barriers
while the Hotel Prinz Albrecht and after the fall of the Wall – or barbed wire. Instead there
at No. 9 became the head­ the area around Moritzplatz is a replica checkpoint booth
quarters of Himmler’s SS. was a somewhat bleak vision and the famous huge sign
After World War II, the ruins of 1970s residential blocks on the old Western side that
of the heavily bombed build­ and the occasional kebab reads “You are leaving the
ings were pulled down. In 1987, shop. In recent years, it has American Sector”.
however, an exhibition was been transformed almost At the museum nearby,
installed on this site by com­ beyond recognition by a Haus am Checkpoint Charlie,
mitted citizens of Berlin. This flurry of developments. In look out for the exhibits
well­researched and exhaustive more recent years, it has been connected with the escape
exploration of Nazi crimes and joined by the creative centre attempts of East Germans to
terror in all its forms, including Aufbau Haus, which houses the West. The ingenuity and
propaganda, deportation, the Aufbau publishing group, bravery of these escapees are
forced labour and genocide, a well­stocked bookshop, astonishing, using devices
builds a chilling picture of the arts and design shops, a such as secret compartments
decisions that must have been crafts supplier called Modular, built into cars and specially
taken on this very site. A pre­ a CLB­Berlin project space constructed suitcases.
served section of the Berlin for contemporary art and
Wall runs alongside the build­ urbanism, and the Kai Dikhas Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
ing, on Niederkirchner Strasse. contemporary Sinti and " ' = # 9am–10pm daily
Roma art gallery. ∑ mauermuseum.de

15 -
Replica of
König Gallery Checkpoint Charlie
(St Agnes)
 M8 ⌂ Alexandrinen­
strasse 118–121  Prinzen­
strasse, Moritzplatz @ 140,
248, N41 # 11am–7pm
Tue–Sat, noon–7pm Sun
∑ koeniggalerie.com

The striking, almost window­

less Brutalist church of
St Agnes was built in the 1960s.
It houses the Johann König
Gallery, which opened here in
2015 following a renovation by
Arno Brandlhuber. The gallery

191
EXPERIENCE Kreuzberg

Pavement dining in
summer on busy
Bergmannstrasse

farmers’ market. To the

18 west, the street leads to
Bergmannstrasse one of the main parks in the
area, Viktoriapark, ideal for
EAT  K9  Südstern,
Geneisenaustrasse
@ 248, N7, N6, N42
a green breather after the
bustle of the streets.
Defne
Long-running,
Kreuzberg is unofficially
divided between its gritty
canalside restaurant
and hip east side and its 19 -
whose Turkish and
more gentrified western Viktoriapark
Mediterranean menu
includes delicious
counterpart. Here, entire
 K10  Platz der
classics like imam
blocks of 19th-century
Luftbrücke @ 104, 140, M19
bayildi, lamb skewers
houses have been restored
and seafood pasta.
and the area’s main artery, This rambling park, with
Bergmannstrasse, has been several artificial waterfalls,
 N9 ⌂ Planufer 92C
revitalized. Pedestrianized short trails and a small hill,
# Opening times vary,
and furnished with antique was designed by Hermann
see website for details
∑ defne-restaurant.de
streetlamps to enhance the Mächtig and built between
atmosphere, it bristles with 1884 and 1894. The Neo-
¡¡¡ independent shops, galleries, Gothic Memorial to the Wars
cafés and restaurants. Also of Liberation at the summit
Cocolo refreshed is the popular of the hill is the work of
The second branch of Marheineke Markthalle: Karl Friedrich Schinkel
Berlin’s best ramen spot. a covered market filled (p28), which commemor-
Cocolo’s menu is small with not only fruit and ates the Prussian victory
but consistently top- vegetables but also against Napoleon’s
notch: think ramen with cafés, delis and even army in the Wars of
sweet pork belly or miso exhibitions. Just Liberation. The cast-
and vegetables, plus off the street is iron tower is well
extras like Japanese the charming ornamented. In
dumplings. Chamissoplatz, the niches of the
 O8 ⌂ Paul-Lincke-
which draws lower section
Ufer 39 # noon–11pm crowds to are 12 allegorical
Mon–Sat its Saturday figures by Christian
∑ kuchi.de/restaurant/ morning organic Daniel Rauch,
cocolo-x-berg Friedrich Tieck
and Ludwig
¡¡¡
Wichmann. Each
Viktoriapark’s figure symbol-
Neo-Gothic izes a battle and
memorial is linked to a

192
historic figure – either a symbolize the air corridors
military leader or a member used by Allied planes. The GREAT VIEW
of the royal family. The park airport was permanently Top of the World
contains the popular Golgotha closed to air traffic in 2008. Berlin’s highest natural
pub and beer garden, perfect It has now been transformed peak can be found at
for refreshment after a stroll. into a park that is popular the top of Kreuzberg’s
with cyclists, roller-bladers Viktoriapark, alongside
and skaters who come here a tumbling waterfall, a
to enjoy the unobstructed war memorial by Karl
20 " ' airport runways. Friedrich Schinkel and
Flughafen Tempelhof stellar views towards
and Tempelhofer Feld the city centre.

 K10 ⌂ Platz der 21

Luftbrücke § 200 03 74 41
Riehmers Hofgarten
 Platz der Luftbrücke
designed the houses’
@ 104, 248  K9 ⌂ Yorckstrasse 83–
intricate, Renaissance-style
86, Grossbeerenstrasse
The disused Tempelhof and Neo-Baroque façades but
56–57 & Hagelberger
Airport was once Germany’s also gave equal splendour to
Strasse 9–12  Mehring-
biggest. Built in 1923, it was the elevations overlooking the
damm @ 140, 248, M19
enlarged during the Third courtyard garden. The streets
Reich. You can take a guided Riehmers Hofgarten is the of Riehmers Hofgarten have
tour of the building (1:30pm name given to the 20 or so been carefully restored and
on Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun), exquisite houses arranged Yorckstrasse also has quite
which is typical of Third Reich around a picturesque garden a few cafés. Next to Riehmers
architecture, even though within the area bordered Hofgarten is the church of
the eagles that decorate it by the streets Yorckstrasse, St Bonifaz, designed by
predate the Nazis. In 1951, Hagelberger Strasse and Max Hasak. Adjacent to the
a monument was added in Grossbeerenstrasse. These church is a similar complex
front of the airport. Designed houses were built between of houses built in an impres-
by Eduard Ludwig, it com- 1881 and 1899 to the detailed sive Neo-Gothic style.
memorates the airlifts of designs of Wilhelm Riehmer
the Berlin Blockade (p190). and Otto Mrosk, respected
The three spikes on the top architects who not only
22
Friedhöfe vor dem
Halleschen Tor
 L9 ⌂ Mehringdamm,
Blücher-, Baruther &
Zossener Strasse § 691 61
38  Hallesches Tor @ 140,
248, M41 # Opening times
vary, see website

Beyond the city walls, next

to the Hallesches Gate, are
four cemeteries established
in 1735. Some of the beautiful
gravestones commemorate
some of the great Berlin
artists including the composer
Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy,
architects Georg Wenzeslaus
von Knobelsdorff, David Gilly
and Carl Ferdinand Langhans,
and the writer, artist and
composer E T A Hoffmann.

The intricately carved

façade of the 19th-century
Riehmers Hofgarten

193
 A SHORT WALK
MEHRINGPLATZ
AND FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
EXPERIENCE Kreuzberg

Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest station

Potsdamer Platz Time 15 minutes

The areas north of Mehringplatz are the oldest

sections of Kreuzberg. Now full of modern
A small hut marks the place of
developments such as the Friedrichstadt Checkpoint Charlie, the notorious
Passagen – a huge complex of shops, border crossing between
apartments, offices, galleries and restaurants – East and West Berlin (p191).
only a few buildings recall the earlier splendour
of this district, which was laid out in 1734.
However, a walk through this area is a must
for those who want to know more about
World War II- and GDR-era Berlin, as it’s home
to some key sights such as the Jüdisches
Museum Berlin and Checkpoint Charlie.
SE
RAS
HST
KOC

FRIE
Martin-Gropius-Bau
WI

is an interesting,
LH

DRI
multicoloured
EL

CHS
Neo-Renaissance
MS

building that houses START

TR

TRA
the city’s main
AS

temporary art

SSE
SE

exhibition space (p186). SSE

TRA
AM ERS
PU TTK

A shocking exhibition
SSE
known as Topographie TRA
MA NNS
des Terrors (Topography H EDE
of Terrors) details
Nazi crimes (p190).

The Topographie des

Terrors exhibition

194
 KREUZBERG

Locator Map
For more detail see p180
The jagged edges
of the Jüdisches
Museum Berlin
This shopping and
restaurant complex
is located inside the
Axel-Springer-Hochhaus,
E a 1960s high-rise built
TR ASS
CH KE S adjacent to the Berlin
I-D UTS Wall as a highly visible
RUD political statement.
CHAR

MAR
KGR
LOT T

Did You Know?

AFE

E
ASS
ENST

NST

STR

The Topographie des

RASS

RAS

Terrors is housed on
DEN

the site of the former

SE
E

LIN

Gestapo and
SS headquarters.
SSE
TRA
S ELS
BES

0 metres 150 N
0 yards 150
FRIE
DRI
CHS
TRA

Windows made to resemble

cracks create a striking effect
SSE

SE
RAS in the metallic facing of the
–ST
UHS Jüdisches Museum Berlin
NZ –KL
FRA (Berlin Jewish Museum),
designed by architect
Daniel Libeskind (p182).

Mehringplatz was formerly

known as Rondell, and then for
many years as Belle-Alliance-
Platz. Completely destroyed
during World War II, it was rebuilt
by Hans Scharoun, who followed
the original design (p188).
FINISH

195
KaDeWe seen from Bahnhof Wittenbergplatz station

AROUND
KURFÜRSTENDAMM
The area around Kurfürstendamm boulevard
(the Ku’damm) was developed in the 19th century.
Luxurious buildings were constructed along the
avenue, while the areas of Breitscheidplatz and
Wittenbergplatz became replete with hotels and
department stores.
After World War II, with the old centre (Mitte)
situated in East Berlin, this area became the centre
of West Berlin. Traces of wartime destruction
were removed very quickly and this area was
transformed into the heart of West Berlin, and
dozens of new company headquarters and trade
centres were built. The situation changed after the
reunification of Berlin and, although many tourists
concentrate on the Mitte district, the heart of the
city continues to beat around Kurfürstendamm.

197
 TI TI

SE

SE
LE LE
-W -W

AS

AS
AR AR
DE DE

TR

TR
NB NB
SA SA W W ER ER

INS

INS
E EL UL UL G- G-
IN IZN LZ LE LE ST

NS
S T L a n USFT L a n U F NW NW R.

KL

KL

HA
E d E
w e E RI dw E R EB EB
GUER G IN hrk N eh

AN

AN
I C K E S TU E R I C K E S T UF an U F rka ER ER
RASSE RASSE na ST ST
al E R

FR

FR
ER

SE

SE
l R. R.

AS

AS
MarchbrückeMarchbrücke Sp Sp
ree ree

TR

TR
S S
RS

RS
A A

L
SE

SE
UE

UE

ZU

ZU
FE

FE
AS

AS
CA

CA

R
TR

TR
OT OT

HS

HS

EI

EI
TO TO
-S -S

NS

NS
RC

RC
UH UH
R- R-

TE

TE
MA

MA
AL AL
LE LE

IN

IN
E E
AROUND
AROUND
SCHLOSS
SCHLOSS F F

U
E E S SA
R. R .A
TRASSE

TRASSE

LZ LZ
CHARLOTTENBURG
CHARLOTTENBURG UF
ER
UF
ER
p208 p208
LEIBNIZS

LEIBNIZS

NI NI
ERNST- ERNST- S T R A S SSET R A S S E
D E S 1 7 .DJEUS 1 7 . J U Charlottenburger
Charlottenburger
Brücke Brücke
REUTER- REUTER-
KSTRAK S SS E
T R A S S EPLATZ PLATZ
B CI S M A R C
BISMAR MÜ MÜ
LLE LLE
Ernst- Ernst- R-B R-B
Te c h n i s c Teh ec h n i s c h e RES RES
Reuter-Platz
Reuter-Platz LAU LAU
HA

HA

-ST -ST
U n i v e r s i tUänt i v e r s i t ä t R. R
RD

RD

E
E E
RSTRASS RSTRASS

SS

SS
SCHILLE SCHILLE
EN

EN

RA

RA
BE

BE
ASSE

R AE S S E

ST

ST
RG

RG

EN

EN
ST

ST
E
HERDERSTR

T ERRASST S

RSTRASS

RA

RA
SE

RASSE

AN

AN
H HE
SS

SS

U n i v e r s i tUänt i v e r s i t ä t E R T RT

FAS

FAS
CKSTRAS

ZA ZA
R SD

d e r K ü n sdt e r K ü n s t e LL LL
S C H L Ü T EH E R

E E E E
Steinplatz
Steinplatz
T RN E S E B E C K S T
TRASSE

TRASSE

SCHLÜTE

G O E T H EGSOT ERTAHS E S T R A S
SE SE
Newton-Sammlung
Newton-Sammlung

R.

R.
ST

ST
KNESEBE

and Museum
and Museum
GR

GR

NS

NS
für Fotografie
für FotografieHARDENBERG-
LEIBNIZS

LEIBNIZS

HARDENBER
OL

OL

BE

BE
PLATZ PLATZ
SE

JE

JE
MA

MA

SS
R AS TS S E

RASSE
AS

PESTALO PESTALO
RA

Zoologischer
Zoologischer
NS

NS

ZZISTRA ZZISTRA
SSE SSE
SK

Garten Garten
TR

TR

ER

U H L A N D S T ER
AS

AS

RM

RM

UHLANDST
SE

SE

CA

CA

C/O Berlin
C/O Berlin
HA HA
Bikinihaus Bikiniha
K A N T S TK RA N T S T R Theater Theater RD RD
ASSE ASSE EN EN Mall M
des Westens
des Westens BE BE
RG RG
Savignyplatz Savignyplatz
Savignyplatz Savignyplatz KANTSTR KAA SN T S T R A S ST ST
SE SE R. R.
Kant-Dreieck
Kant-Dreieck BU
Kaiser Wilhelm D
Kaiser Wilhelm
R AS SE

ST R AS SE

STR.

STR.

Gedächtnis
Gedächtnis
Kirche KircheBREIT
KSTRASSE

KSTRASSE

P
GR

GR

JüdischesJüdisches
S EER ST

BLEIBTREU

BLEIBTREU

OL

OL

NIE BU HR STR
NIE BU HR STR Kranzler Kranzler
Eck Eck T
Gemeindehaus
Gemeindehaus
SC HL ÜT ER

. .
MA

MA
STRASSE

A SÜT

NS

NS

Kurfürstendamm
Kurfürstendamm
R HL

MM MM
TR

TR

N D A T E N D A JOACHIMSTHALER
AS

AS
KNESEBEC

KNESEBEC
S TSC

ÜR S T E Ü RJOACHIMSTHALER
S PLATZ
SE

SE

URF F
M O M M S EM PLATZ
NOS TMRMASSESNES T R A S S E KUR
WIELAND

WIELAND

K
RASSE

RASSE

AL ER ST R.

AL ER ST R.

AU AU
GS GS
Uhlandstrasse
Uhlandstrasse
Fasanen-Fasanen- BU B ULOS- LOS
RG RG
strasse strasse ER ANGELES-
ER ANGEL
U
RB
LEIBNIZST

LEIBNIZST

PLATZ PLAT
ST ST
MA
K E S T. R .

TR.

RA RA
E

SE

GEORGE- GEORGE- SS SS
.

JO AC HI MS TH

R TH
S
FA SA NE NS TR

N ENS TR

E
AS

AS
MEINEKES

GROSZ-PLATZGROSZ-PLATZ
MM MM
NDA TENDA
JO AC HI MS

TR
ST

STE EI EI
STR .

STR .

ES

S SL SL
E INE

FÜRURFÜR
E

EB EB
NK

NK

KUR EN EN
SCH LÜT ERS TR.

SCH LÜT ERS TR.

K
FAMSA
BL EIB TR EU

BL EIB TR EU

RA

RA

ER ER
ST ST
LIE LIE RA
SS
RA
TZ TZ E
EN EN
S T R A S S SET R A S S E RANKE- RANKE- BU BU
B U R G E RB U R G E R RG RG
L I E T Z E NL I E T Z E N
SE AS SE

TR AS SE

PLATZ PLATZ
ER ER
STR AS SE R

- - STR S
PER PER
RA SS E

RA SS E

OLIVAER OLIVAER STR STR

GE

AL ZB UR GE

A A AS AS .
CH CH
ASTR

B U N D E S A L L E E STR

BUNDESALLEE

PLATZ PLATZ SE SE
PF AL ZB UR

S S
STRDS

UH L AN DS

R
EM SE R ST

EM SE R ST

FÜ RT HE
L AN

ST R.

FASANEN- FASANEN-
TR.

TR.

PA R PA R
IS E IS E PLATZ Berliner
PLATZ Berliner
UHPF

R R NÜRNBER
NÜRNBERGER
HE S

HE S

ST R ST R
ASS ASS KIRCH- KIRCH - Festspiele
Festspiele PLATZ PLATZ
E E LUDWIG SSE LUDWIG SSE GE
FASANENSTR.

FASANENSTR.

E
M

M
R IS C

R IS C

STRA STRA
SS

SS
STRAS CHE

STRAS CHE

EI

EI
ER

ER

RA

RA
GRAINAUER STR.

GRAINAUER STR.
SE

SE

O
B AY E

B AY E

ST

ST
TT

TT

CHER
IS

IS

N
O

ER

ER
ST
SÄCHS

SÄCHS

RA

H
AS

IC

IC

DÜSS D
KULMBA

PA R PA R
SS

E L D OÜ S S E L D O
SE

IS E IS E
STRASSE

STRASSE

SP

SP
E

RFER RFE R R
S T R AR S
SSE TRASSE STR
ASS
STR
ASS Spichernstrasse
Spichernstrasse
E E
RE

0 metres 0 metres 400 N 400 N

RGER

RGER

N ACH O DS
NTARCAH O D S T R A
0 yards 0 yards 400 400 SSE SS
PFALZBU

PFALZBU

Hohenzollern-
Hohenzollern-
platz platz
 AROUND KURFÜRSTENDAMM
R

ER
FE

UF
-U

A-
SA

-S
NS

TR
.
HA

Must See 0 C/O Berlin

E

E
SS

SS

1 Kaiser Wilhelm q Fasanenstrasse

RA

RA

Gedächtnis Kirche w Steinplatz

ST

ST
CH

CH

e Jüdisches Gemeindehaus
Experience More
BA

BA

2 KaDeWe Eat & Drink

3 Bikinihaus Mall 1 Lon Men’s Noodle House
4 Europa-Center 2 Bar am Steinplatz
5 Tauentzienstrasse
Stay
6 Zoo Berlin
3 Hotel Zoo
7 Newton-Sammlung and
TiergartenTiergarten

Museum für Fotografie 4 25hours Hotel Bikini

8 Theater des Westens 5 Waldorf Astoria

9 Savignyplatz

R.

La
nd
La
nd
TIERGARTEN
TIERGARTEN T i e r gTai re tr eg na r t e n
we we
hrk hrk p152 p152
an an
al al

TR E STRASSE
A TS ES N
A R T EI ENRSG AR
TIERG T
TR AS SE

TR AS SE

KLINGE

KLINGE

Lichtenstein-Lichtenstein-
brücke brücke
DR AK ES

DR AK ES

Z o o l o gZ oi soclho egri s c h e r KA KA D IPLOMAT

DIPLOMAT
E N- E N-
LHÖFER

LHÖFER

TH TH
RG- GarteG n arten AR
INA
AR CO
I N A R NE
CO
RN VIE RT EVIE
L RT E L
-HE -HE L I EL
INR INR U S IU
OT H O T H- S-
-U -U
FE FE
STR.

STR.

R R
ST ST
RA RA
SS SS
E E
Zoo Berlin
Zoo Berlin ASS TRA
SS E E
STR S LÜ LÜ
al al
R.

R.

aus STE
R TER
TZ TZ
k a n ÜhT rZkOaWnU F EÜRT Z O W U F E R
ST

ST

PES ehr
OW OW
Mall APE UDA wL e L
dw
ITH

ITH

BUD B UF UF d
ER ER Lan La n
KE

KE
E

. WI TR. WI
TR
SS

SS

OLAF-PALME-OLAF-PALME- NS NC H
S CH
AS SE T RPLATZ
AS SE FE FE MANN MA
RA

RA

PLATZ A A NN
D A P E SBTUEDRASPT R
E STE RS GR GR STR STR
LÜT LÜT
E

RG RG
ST

ST

. .
R.

R.

BU BU
SS

SS

ZOW ZOW
EN

EN
ST

ST

TSCHEID-BREITSCHEID- STR S
.

ASS TRASS
TR

TR

RA

RA
AF

AF
ITH

ITH

PLATZ PLATZ
RS

RS

KU KU E E
GR

GR

ST

ST

Europa- Europa- RFÜ R

KE

KE

TA TA RST FÜRST
E

E
RG

RG

ND

ND

UE UE
LL

LL
ANS BAC HER

ANS BAC HER

Center
N T Center EN EN
BE

BE

NT
STR ASS E

STR ASS E

STR S
LA

LA
BAYREUTHER

BAYREUTHER

HI

HI

ZI ZI ASS TRASS
RN

RN

TIERGARTEN
TIERGARTEN
STRASSE

STRASSE

EN EN
SC

SC

E E
KEITHSTRASSE

KEITHSTRASSE
NÜ

NÜ

ST ST
E

E
SS

SS

R. R. p152 p152
Tauentzien-
Tauentzien-
RA

RA
ST

ST

strasse strasse
.

.
STR

STR

KU KU
RF RF
ER

R
R.

R.
GE

ÜR ÜR
S- ER ER
RG

WITTENBERG-
WITTENBERG-
ST

ST

ST ST
UR

ER

ER

LES- PLATZ PLATZ D D EN EN

IA N IA ST ST
RB

TZ N
ER

ER

T H IN

T H IN

RA RA
AN AN
MA

SS SS
RG

RG
ASS

ASS

Wittenbergplatz
Wittenbergplatz R R E E
U U
BE

BE

E KaDeWe KaDeWe
GEN

GEN
STR

STR
RN

RN
NÜ

NÜ

STRAUETHER

STRAUTHER
ASS R

YARSES R
ER

S T R AC HEER

SSE

SSE
SBTAR AC H E

Augsburger
Augsburger KL KL
E
SAU

B U

EIS E
TST ISTST
E

Strasse Strasse
A NASS S A

BAYR
B

AS
PA S

RA RA
ANS

SE SS SS
P

STR A S S ES T R A S S E E E
ER ER
BURG BURG
ZEN IETZEN
MARTIN- LUTHER- STRASSE

MARTIN- LUTHER- STRASSE

STR LIET L
. FUGG F GG
ERSTU
TR.

A S S STR.

R A S SEER S T R A S S E
ME R

ME R
R
R.HE

R S

RSTR.

RSTR.
E

WELSE SSE
E T T ST R.

S T RT A L E R
ST R.
KE LH EI

KE LH EI
STRT

ALE

RGER
FÜ

Z
ST R

WELSE
ET

ISBE GEI
RGST SBERGST
SE SE
AS AS
RASS
E
RASS
E S TR S TR
TZ TZ
R

S T R A S SH E R

GEISB G
E R G S TE I S B E R G S T
MO MO
S A RGER

R
HS EE R

HER
E

A N SSA M B E R G E

R. R.
M BSASCE
STRASS

SE SE
AS AS
TBRAACS

BAC

R R
E

T T
Viktoria- Viktoria-OT Z S TZS
BAMB
K U TL R

M MO
Luise-PlatzLuise-Platz
ANS

AROUNDAROUND
B

REG ENS BUR GER

EGE NSB URG ER STR ASS E VIKTORIA-LUISE-
STR ASS E VIKTORIA-LUISE- KURFÜRSTENDAMM
KURFÜRSTENDAMM
PLATZ PLATZ

AH
H O H E N SHTO NN
U EF E RA
S TS AT U SN
FE S ES T R A S S E
 1"

KAISER WILHELM
GEDÄCHTNIS KIRCHE
EXPERIENCE Around Kurfürstendamm

 F7 ⌂ Breitscheidplatz  &  Zoologischer Garten  Kurfürstendamm

@ 100, 109, 110, 200, 204, 245, M19, M29, M46, X10, X34 # 9am–7pm daily
∑ gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de

The damaged tower of Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church is a symbol

of peace and the city's determination to rebuild after World War II.

This church-monument is one of Berlin’s

most famous landmarks, surrounded by a
lively crowd of street traders, buskers and
beggars. The vast Neo-Romanesque church
was designed by Franz Schwechten and
consecrated in 1895. It was almost completely
destroyed by Allied bombs in 1943, and after
World War II the ruins were removed, leaving
only the massive front tower at the base of
which the Gedenkhalle (Memorial Hall) is
situated. This hall documents the history of
the church and contains some of its original
ceiling mosaics, marble reliefs and liturgical
objects. In 1961, Egon Eiermann designed an
octagonal church in blue glass and a new
freestanding bell tower.

The vast figure of Christ on the Cross

is the work of Karl Hemmeter

The hexagonal
bell tower on the
The damaged roof of COVENTRY
site of the former
the old tower is one AND BERLIN
main nave
of Berlin’s best-known In the main entrance
landmarks. of the old church you’ll
find a surprisingly
modest crucifix. It was
fashioned from nails
found in the ashes of
Coventry Cathedral,
England, which was
destroyed during
German bombing
raids in 1940.

Walls of concrete
and blue glass
form a dense grid

The old spire, completed in

1895, and the new church and
bell tower, completed in 1961
 Must See

Splendid mosaics decorate

the arches, walls and ceilings
of the old church

201
 Food with a view at
legendary department
store KaDeWe

EXPERIENCE MORE
meeting place for Dada
2 3\-= artists in the 1920s. The
KaDeWe Bikinihaus Mall current building dates from
1965, and since that time it
 F7 ⌂ Tauentzienstrasse  F7 ⌂ Budapester Strasse
has been one of the largest
21–24  Wittenbergplatz 38–50  &  Zoologischer
complexes of its type in the
@ M19, M29, M46 Garten  Kurfürstendamm
whole of Germany. Designed
# 10am–8pm Mon–Thu, @ 100, 110, 200, 204, 245,
by Helmut Hentrich and
10am–9pm Fri, 9:30am– 249, M45 # 10am–8pm
Hubert Petschnigg, it com-
8pm Sat ∑ kadewe.de Mon–Sat ∑ bikiniberlin.de
prises a group of low-rise
Kaufhaus des Westens, or The three-floor Bikinihaus buildings housing a trade
KaDeWe, is the largest depart- Mall, named for the 1950s centre, numerous restaurants
ment store in Europe. It was building that houses it, has and pubs, the deluxe Hotel
built in 1907 to a design an inspired feature: its ground Palace Berlin and the political
by Emil Schaudt, but it has floor houses 70 wooden “pop- cabaret Die Stachelschweine.
been extended several times. ups”, crate-like mini-shops Around the Center are
From the very beginning it that independent stores some intriguing fountains,
was Berlin’s most exclusive can rent for up to a year. This including the “Flow of Time
department store, with a keeps things fresh and excit- Clock”, designed by Bernard
slogan that ran “In our shop ing while the surrounding Gitton. Seconds, minutes and
a customer is a king, and the brand outlets – Carhaart, hours are measured in vials
king is a customer”. After Scotch & Soda, Gant – offer and spheres of green liquid.
World War II, KaDeWe became a solid range of mid-range
the symbol of the economic fashion and home design.
success of West Berlin. GREAT VIEWS
You can buy everything Monkey Bar
here; however, the main As well as amazing
attraction must be the Food 4 cocktails, the Monkey
Hall, a gourmet’s paradise, Europa-Center Bar at the 25hours Hotel
with exotic fruits and vege- Bikini has a wrap-
 F7 ⌂ Breitscheidplatz
tables, live fish and seafood, around terrace with
 &  Zoologischer Garten
100 varieties of tea, more excellent views over
@ 100, 109, 200
than 2,400 wines and a host the adjacent zoo and
of other gastronomic delights. The Europa-Center stands Kaiser Wilhelm
KaDeWe also has a restaurant, on the site of the legendary Gedächtnis Kirche.
the Wintergarten. Romanisches Café, a famous

202
 which makes it the oldest black-and-white images of
5 zoo in Germany. You can nudes and portraits of the
Tauentzienstrasse enter from Hardenbergplatz rich and famous.
through the Lion’s Gate, and This museum serves as the
 F7  Wittenbergplatz
from Budapester Strasse city’s museum of photography,
@ M19, M29, M46
through the decorative and is constantly expanding its
This is one of the most Oriental-style Elephant Gate. collections. It displays photo-
important streets for trade The zoo offers a number graphs dating back to the
and commerce in this part of of attractions, including the 19th century, and its exhibits
Berlin. Some shops here are monkey house, with its family on Newton contain selections
not as expensive or as elegant of gorillas, and a darkened of his work – including fashion
as on Kurfürstendamm – but pavilion for nocturnal animals. and landscapes – as well as a
they attract more visitors The hippopotamus pool has collection of his cameras.
for this reason. One of the a glazed wall so they can be
highlights of the street is seen underwater. Since 2017,
the unusual façade of the the zoo has also been home
department store Peek & to a pair of giant pandas. The
Cloppenburg. Designed by
Gottfried Böhm, the walls of
aquarium, one of the largest
in Europe, contains sharks, STAY
the building are covered with piranhas and unusual animals
Hotel Zoo
transparent, gently slanting from coral reefs. There is also
Right on the Ku’damm,
and undulating “aprons”. a huge terrarium with an over-
this former mansion
Also unmissable, literally, is grown jungle that is home to
became an upscale
the amazing sculpture, Berlin. a group of crocodiles.
hotel in 1911. It houses a
Representing the divided
grand living room and a
Berlin of the Wall era, it was
lovely rooftop terrace.
installed in 1987 to mark the
750th anniversary of the city. 7"=  E7 ⌂ Kurfürsten-
Newton-Sammlung damm 25 ∑ hotelzoo.de
and Museum für ¡¡¡
Fotografie
6"\-=
 E6 ⌂ Jebensstrasse 2 25hours Hotel Bikini
Zoo Berlin
 &  Zoologischer Garten This trend-setting hotel
 F7 ⌂ Hardenbergplatz 8/ # 10am–6pm Tue, Wed & has rooms that overlook
Budapester Strasse 34 Fri–Sun (to 8pm Thu) the adjacent zoo, plus a
 &  Zoologischer Garten ∑ smb.museum buzzing top-floor bar
@ 100, 109, 110, 200, 204, and restaurant.
Society and art photographer
245, 249, M45, M46, M49,  F7 ⌂ Budapester
Helmut Newton (1931–2004)
X10, X34 # Opening times Strasse 40
bequeathed his life’s work
vary, see website for ∑ 25hours-hotels.com
to the city of Berlin. Newton,
details ∑ zoo-berlin.de
who was born and received ¡¡¡
Zoo Berlin is one of Berlin’s his first training as a photo-
most popular attractions and grapher in Berlin, became Waldorf Astoria
many animals are to be found one of the 20th century’s A slick five-star with
here. Part of the Tiergarten most well-known photo- luxurious rooms and
(p170), it dates from 1844, graphers with his stark glamorous spa, as well
as an American-themed
cocktail bar and fine
dining.
 E7 ⌂ Hardenberg-
strasse 28 ∑ waldorf
astoriaberlin.de

¡¡¡

One of Berlin Zoo’s two giant

pandas, Meng Meng and Jiao
Qing, on loan from China

203
 8
the theatre is the renowned During summer,
Delphi cinema and popular
Theater des Westens the entire edge
jazz club Quasimodo.
of Savigny Platz
 E7 ⌂ Kantstrasse 9–12
and neighbouring
§ 0180 544 44
 &  Zoologischer Garten 9 streets turn into
@ 100, 109, 110, 200, M49,
Savignyplatz one big garden
X10, X34 filled with tables
EXPERIENCE Around Kurfürstendamm

 D7  Savignyplatz
The Theater of the West,
@ M49, X34
and umbrellas.
one of the most picturesque
of all Berlin’s theatres, was Savignyplatz is enclosed on
built in 1896 to a design by the south side by the arcade
Bernhard Sehring. The comp­ of a railway viaduct, under 10 " ' - =
osition of its façade links which Sally (Liza Minnelli) C/O Berlin
Neo­Classical elements with and Brian (Michael York)
 E7 ⌂ Hardenbergstrasse
Palladian and Art Nouveau scream in the film Cabaret
22–24  Zoologischer
details. The interior of the by Bob Fosse. During the
Garten @ 100, 200, 245,
theatre has been designed day the square does not look
M49, X10, X34 # 11am–
in a splendid Neo­Baroque interesting – there are no
8pm daily ∑ co-berlin.org
style, while the back and the remarkable buildings, only
section that houses the stage carefully tended greenery This photography exhibition
have been rebuilt within and flowerbeds. However, centre showcases work by
a Neo­Gothic structure, the area around the square renowned photographers as
incorporating the decorative truly comes alive at night, well as young talent, and holds
elements of a chess set. when the dozens of cafés artist talks, lectures and guided
From its very beginning and restaurants fill up. During tours. It is housed in Amerika
the theatre focused on summer the entire edge of Haus, the former American
lighter forms of musical Savignyplatz and neighbour­ culture and information centre,
entertainment. Operettas ing streets turn into one built during the international
and vaudeville have been big garden filled with tables building exhibition in 1956–7
staged here, and in more and umbrellas. People come to a light and airy design by
recent times musicals such from outlying districts to Bruno Grimmek.
as Les Misérables. Some of the visit popular restaurants and
world’s greatest stars have cafés such as Dicke Wirtin. The
appeared on the stage here, arcades in the viaduct contain
including Josephine Baker, many cafés and bars, and one 11
who performed her famous section has been taken up by Fasanenstrasse
banana dance in 1926. Near the Bücherbogen bookshop.
 E7  Uhlandstrasse
@ 109, 110, M49, X10, X34

The discreet charm of

Fasanenstrasse, particularly
between Lietzenburger
Strasse and Kurfürstendamm,
has attracted the most exclu­
sive designer shops in the
world. Fin-de-siècle villas set in
tranquil gardens and elegant
shop windows of jewellers, art
galleries and fashion shops will
all entice you to take an after­
noon stroll along this street.
It is worth seeing the villas
at No. 23–25, which are called
the Wintergarten­Ensemble.
The first one, No. 23, dates
from 1889. Tucked away in a
garden, the villa is home to the
Literaturhaus, which organizes
interesting exhibitions and
The magnificent façade of the Theater des Westens, readings. It also houses an
matched by an equally opulent interior excellent café that extends

204
into a conservatory. No. 25, Crowds outside the C/O
built in 1892 by Hans Grisebach, 13 Berlin photography
accommodates an auction Jüdisches exhibit centre
house and art gallery. Gemeindehaus
 E7 ⌂ Fasanenstrasse
79/80 § 88 02 80
12
EAT &
 &  Zoologischer
Garten  Uhlandstrasse
Steinplatz
or Kurfürstendamm
 E7 ⌂ Steinplatz
 &  Ernst-Reuter-Platz,
@ 245, M49, X10, X34

The Jewish Community

DRINK
Zoologischer Garten @ 245,
House is the headquarters of Lon Men’s
M45, N2
the local Jewish community, Noodle House
Because of the two nearby constructed on the site of a Family-run Taiwanese
universities (Berlin University synagogue that was burned that’s small in size but
of the Arts and the Technical down by the Nazis and their big on taste. Try the
University of Berlin), this supporters during Kristall­ dumplings or ask for the
square was a popular meeting nacht on 9 November 1938. homemade noodles.
place for artists, intellectuals The new building, designed  D7 ⌂Kantstrasse 33
and students in the years by Dieter Knwoblauch and § 030 31 51 96 78
of West Berlin. A green oasis Heinz Heise, was constructed # noon–10:30pm daily
surrounded by beautiful in 1959. The only reminders of
¡¡¡
architecture, the square is the splendour of the former
still a lovely meeting spot, synagogue are the portal at
and makes a great place to the entrance to the building Bar am Steinplatz
take a break while exploring and some decorative frag­ This famous and stylish
the galleries and stores along ments on the façade. hotel bar was a meeting
Hardenbergstrasse, and in Inside there are offices place for artists in West
the streets between here and a prayer room covered Berlin in the 1960s.
and Savignyplatz. by three glazed domes. At Since its rebirth in 2014
The square also contains the rear there is a courtyard it is again attracting up-
a monument dedicated with a place of remembrance. market bar-hoppers.
to the victims of Stalinism There is also an emotive  D7 ⌂ Steinplatz 4
and National Socialism. It is statue at the front of the ∑ barsteinplatz.com
made of stones from Fasanen­ building, depicting a broken
strasse Synagogue, which was scroll of the Torah (the holy
destroyed during World War II. book of Jewish law).

205
 A SHORT WALK
BREITSCHEIDPLATZ
AND KU’DAMM
EXPERIENCE Around Kurfürstendamm

Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest U-Bahn

Designed by Josef Paul
station Kurfürstendamm Time 15 minutes
Kleihues, the Kant-
Dreieck (Kant Triangle)
The area surrounding the eastern end of the Ku’damm –
building contains only
especially Tauentzienstrasse and Breitscheidplatz – is the right angles. The “sail”
centre of the former West Berlin. Years ago, this ultra- on the roof makes it
modern district attracted visitors from all over the world. instantly recognizable.
In terms of shopping and leisure, it’s becoming
overshadowed by Potsdamer Platz and the arcades of
Friedrichstrasse, but the Ku’damm still retains its unique
character and is the perfect place for a city stroll.
Nowhere else in Berlin is there a place so full of life as

KA
N
Breitscheidplatz, a department store with such style

TS
TR
as KaDeWe, or streets as refined as Fasanenstrasse.

AS
SE
Fragments of the old synagogue are
Literaturhaus incorporated into the façade of the
contains a Jüdisches Gemeindehaus (Jewish
charming café and Community House; p205).
a good bookshop.

E
A SS KU
RF
S TR ÜR
ST
EN EN
DA
AN MM
F AS

E START
A SS
TR
ES
EK
N
EI
M E
S
S
A
AUGS

S TR
R
LE
BURG

Fasanenstrasse is a A
tranquil street that ST
features some of the IM
ER ST

H
most expensive C
A
shops in Berlin JO
RA

(p204).
SSE

A stroll along the Ku’damm is

a walk into the heart of
Berlin, and an essential part
of any visit to the city.

0 metres 100 N
0 yards 100

206
 AROUND
The structure of the KURFÜRSTENDAMM
Berlin Stock Exchange at
Ludwig-Erhard-Haus is
based on parabolic arches.
Locator Map
The façade of the Theater For more detail see p198
des Westens is fittingly
decorated with dancing
women (p204).

Bahnhof
Zoo

Chinese-inspired gazebo
at Zoo Berlin (p203)
BU
DA

The Oriental-style
PE

Elephant Gate is one

ST

of two entrances to
ER

the Berlin Zoo (p203).

ST

TA
UE
RA

NT
SS

ZI
EN
E
ST
RA
SS
E

FINISH

One of the attractions

of the Europa-Center
The juxtaposition of old and new is a glazed courtyard
buildings at Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis containing a fountain with
Kirche has created one of the most moving parts (p202).
iconic sights in Berlin (p200).

207
Bridge overlooking Schloss Charlottenburg

AROUND SCHLOSS
CHARLOTTENBURG
The area surrounding Schloss Charlottenburg is
one of the most enchanting regions of the city, full
of greenery and attractive buildings dating from
the end of the 19th century. Originally a small
settlement called Lützow, it was only when Elector
Friedrich III (later King Friedrich I) built his wife’s
summer retreat here at the end of the 17th
century that this town attained significance.
Initially called Schloss Lietzenburg, the palace was
renamed Schloss Charlottenburg after the death
of Queen Sophie Charlotte.
By the 18th century Charlottenburg had become
a town, and was for many years an independent
administration, inhabited by wealthy people living
in elegant villas. It became officially part of Berlin
in 1920 and, despite World War II and the ensuing
division of the city, the central section of this area
has kept its historical character.

209
 TEG

TEG
Mörschbrücke
Mörschbrücke

ELE

ELE
R

R
WE

WE
E E
ASS ASS
-STR -STR
HRN DOHRN

G
-DO -
MAX MAX

ree ree
Sp Sp Jungfernheide
Jungfernheide

ASSE
OLB O
ERSS LBERSS
TRAS T
SE RASSE

E
SE

SE

ASS
STRA

STRA

A
STR

L I S E -L E R S T R
Belvedere
Belvedere

LER
Graben Graben BR
AH
BR
AH

KEP

KEP
R

R
ES ES

MINE

MINE
TRA TRA
SSE SSE

KAM

KAM
M
p

Spree

Spree
Te Te
ich ich
gra gra MIERENDORFF-
MIERENDORF
ben ben
Karpfenteich
Karpfenteich
MIN
DEN
MIN
DEN
PLATZ PLATZ
ER ER
STR STR
ASS ASS
E E
T R A S SUEL S S T R A S S E
PULSS

E
P

SS

SS

SÖMMERINGSTRASSE
Mausoleum
Mausoleum

RA

RA
HEUBNERW

HEUBNERW

TE

TE

ST

ST
FF

FF
GE

GE
SOPH

SOPH

B ON

B O NR

OR

OR
LE

LE

ND

ND
R
H

HO

RE

RE
IE-CH

IE-CH

OE

WE F

W
Schlosspark
Schlosspark
EG

EG

IE

IE
E GF

EG
FF

M
ER ER
R. R. UF UF
IT ZS T LL W IT ZS T
A R LOT

A R LOT

W ER ER
M O LL MO
Schlossbrücke
Schlossbrücke
TEN-S

TEN-S

Schloss Schloss Neuer Neuer

Käthe-Kollwitz-
Käthe-Kollwitz- Charlottenburg
Charlottenburg Pavillon Pavillon
TRASS

TRASS

Museum Museum
R ST R .

R ST R .
Neuer Neuer
LUISEN- LUISEN- C
Flügel Flügel
PLATZ PLATZ
E

EO EO
EYE

EYE
SA SA
ND ND
Reiterdenkmal
Reiterdenkmal

W I N T E R ST E I N
ER ER
HM

HM

des GrossendesKurfürsten
Grossen Kurfürsten
ST R .

ST R .
LO

LO

Gipsformerei Berlin Berlin

Gipsformerei Museum Museum
M DAMM Museum Museum Scharf-Gerstenberg
Scharf-Gerstenberg SE FST RA
RASUHO
ER DAM ER BRA UHO FSTBRA
S P A N D ASUP A N D A U BerggruenBerggruen OT OT
R DA MM R DA MM
SP AN DA UE
SP AN DA UE KLAUSENER-KLAUSENER- STA LLS TR. STA LLS TR. TO TO
-SU -SU
ST R .
Westend Westend PLATZ PLATZ
NIT HA CK ST

NIT HA CK ST

Bröhan-Museum
Bröhan-Museum HR HR
DANCKE

DANCKE

-A -A
WULFSHEIN- WULFSHEIN-
LL LL
EE E
STRASSE STRASSE GIERKE- GIERKE- NEUF ERTS TR.
NEUF ERTS TR. RICHA
PLATZ PLATZ
SOPH

SOPH

WAGN
R.

R.
LMANNS

LMANNS

RUS- R
SCHUSTEH SCHUSTEH
Schlossstrasse
Schlossstrasse
Villas Villas RUSSTR. RUSSTR. STR ASSE
PLA
STR ASSE
S C H U S T E HS C H U S T E H
NEU E NEU E Luisenkirche
Luisenkirche
IE-CH

IE-CH

ASS EIST STR ASS E

CHR IST STR CHR CHR ISTS TR. CHR ISTS TR. BEH AIM - BEH AIM -
KAISER-FR

KAISER-FR
TRASSE

TRASSE

STR ASS E STR ASS E

WILM ERSD ORFE

WILM ERSD ORFE R

ARLO

ARLO

NEHRIN

NEHRIN

S C H LO S S S

S C H LO S S S

R ICH
E

E
SS

SS

Luisen- Luisen- E E STRASSE STRASSE

RA

RA
TTEN

TTEN

R ASS
SEE LIN GSTSEE LIN GST R ASS HAUBACH HAUBACH
ST

ST

friedhof friedhof
GSTRAS

GSTRAS

IEDRICH-S

IEDRICH-S
EL

EL

GIERKEZE

GIERKEZE
BB

BB

R
-STRA

-STRA

TRASSE

TRASSE

STR.
HE

HE

T H R A S O LTT H R A S O LT
SE

SE

STRA SSE

STRA SSE
SSE

SSE

ILE

ILE
T R A S SF REI T S C

TRASSE

ASSE A S SZEI L L E S T RZAI SL S

LESTRASSE
D O R F F S TDR O R F F S T R
K N O B E L SK N O B E L S
SC HL OS SS TR

SC HL OS SS TR

FRITSCH

SE SE
OR FF ST R AS
OR FF ST R AS
DANCKEL

DANCKEL

KN OB EL SD
KN OB EL SD R ASS
NSTELH E
AGE NST R ASS
E
E

SPI ELH AGESPI

SS

SS
STR ASSE

STR ASSE

RA

RA

HESTRA

HO RS T WE GHO RS T WE G
ESTRASS
ST

ST
MANNSTR

MANNSTR

DT

DT

HOR STW EG HOR STW EG Bismarckstrasse

Bismarckstrasse
.

.
N

SSE

SOPHIE- SOPHIE-
DERN

DERN

U
W

CHARLOTTE- CHARLOTTE-
E

SSE SSE
Sophie-Charlotte-
Sophie-Charlotte-
PLATZ PLATZ
C K S T RCAK S T R A
B I S M ABRI S M A R
SAL

SAL

Platz Platz
.

Kaiserdamm
Kaiserdamm
K AIS ER -FR IED

K AIS ER -FR IED

MM MM
K A I S E RKDAAI S E R D A
AMM AMM
K A I S E RK DA I S E R D
E

E
ASS

ASS
WIND

WIND
STR

STR

SE SE
RI CH -ST R.

RI CH -ST R.

AS AS
SCHE

SCHE
REZ

REZ

TR TR
TS TS
SUA

SUA

D D
IDSTR

IDSTR

N N
U

U
W

.
 AROUND SCHLOSS
CHARLOTTENBURG

C h a rl

C h a rl
o tt e n

o tt e n
Must See

-
1 Schloss Charlottenburg
E

b u rg e

b u rg e
STRASS

SSE RASSE Experience More

TRA T
SSS AUSSS
r

r
GAU 2 Schlosspark
ST

G NEUE

NEUE
3 Neuer Pavillon
- M EI ASS -

M EITN E R-

GOS

GOS
T N E ER

K o l o n i eK o l o n i e
4 Mausoleum
S

S
LARE

LARE ER

G e r i c k eGs eh roifc k e s h o f
5 Reiterdenkmal des Grossen Kurfürsten
UF

UFER
R UF

R UF

6 Gipsformerei Berlin
LISE-

ER

ER

7 Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum
8 Schlossstrasse Villas
Mierendorff-
Mierendorff-
platz platz 9 Museum Scharf-Gerstenberg
RU
K A I S E R I NK-A IASUE G A LULSETEA - A L L E E
I NS-T AA- U G
FF- 10 Luisenkirche
11 Belvedere
NORDHAUSER
NORDHAUSER
STR ASS E STR ASS E 12 Museum Berggruen
SÖMMERINGSTRASSE

13 Bröhan-Museum

Eat
V e rb in D A R W I N S T R A S S E

V e rb in

QUEDLINQ EG
BUR DE
L IRN B USRTGREARS S E S T R A S S E
1 Brauhaus Lemke am Schloss
d u n g sk

d u n g sk
DARWINSTRASSE

anal

anal

SE SE
RAS RAS
ZST ZST
MH O LT M H O LT
B O RS D
S P R E AE M PREEBORD HEL HE L
AM

Caprivibrücke Spree
Caprivibrücke Spree
E

E
SS

SS

SS

SS
RA

RA

UFER UFER Röntgenbrücke

Röntgenbrücke
IBU RGER IBU RGER
ST

ST

RA

RA
W I N T E R ST E I N

VE

VE
EG

EG
RASSE

RASSE

DO

DO
SE

ASSE

ST

ST
LÜDTGEW

LÜDTGEW

TRAS

IN

IN

E E
SS SS Dovebrücke Dovebrücke
N ST R

ASS E
ARCOST

ARCOST

GENS

KL

KL
RA

RA
IST

IST
G AR Ö N T G E

SA SA
AN

AN

EI ELI
AN

AN
RÖNT

ZN LZ
N
ST R .

L US FT U
LV

LV

ST
FR

FR

A LT - L I A
E T Z OLWT - L I E T Z O W EE R L a n F E R
an
GA

EI dw I N d
GUER G
EE I C K E S TU E R I C K E S T
RASSE RASSE
N
U
FE
eh U F weh
rk E R rk
Rathaus Rathaus
SE

SE

R a a na na
E IL E

E IL E

ARD- RICHARD- l l
Charlottenburg
Charlottenburg GU GU
AS

AS

NER-
RU S- WAGNER- ER ER
LO S

LO S
GZ

GZ

EATZ PLATZ Luisen- Luisen- IC IC

KE KE
TR

STR RAUS T R

MarchbrückeMarchbrücke
UR

UR

Kirchhof I Kirchhof I - -
CHM

CHM

E
ASS CH-

S T SE -
SS

SS
RS

RS

B ERAS SCH
RB

RB

RA

RA
IDT

IDT
WA

WA

Richard-Wagner-
Richard-Wagner-
A B ST LRAU

ST ST
UE

UE

RA RA
SE

SE
ST

Platz Platz O OT
STR

STR

SS SS
HL

TT
CA

CA

TO E E
H

BE

AS

AS

O-
KO

KO
R ICH A R D -W A G

SU -SU
.

AB

FR FR
HR HR
TR

TR

AU AU
H A R D -W A G NER

-A -A NH NH
LL LL
HS

HS

EE EE OF OF
ER ER
AROUND
AROUND
ST RA SS E

ST RA SS E

RC

RC

ST ST
RA RA
MA

MA

SS SS
KURFÜRSTENDAMM
KURFÜRSTENDAMM
E

STR. E E
SS

SS
RA

RA

p196 p196
NER -ST R A S S

KR UM ME

KR UM ME

ST

ST

RASSE

RASSE

OT OT
LE

LE
-ST R A S S E

TO TO
ZIL

ZIL

-SU -
H R - A LS U H R - A L
S T R AS S E S -

S T R AS S E S -

Z I L L E S T R ZA ISLSLEE S T R A S S E LE LE
M A RI E - E .- LÜ D E R

M A RI E - E .- LÜ D E R
LEIBNIZST

LEIBNIZST

E E
E

DeutscheDeutsche
Oper Oper
Berlin Berlin

Deutsche Oper
Deutsche Oper
KSTRAK S SS E
TRASSE
SHAKESPEARE- B
SHAKESPEARE- B CI S M A R C
ISMAR
PLATZ PLATZ
RASSE

RASSE

AROUNDAROUND
SCHLOSSSCHLOSS
CHARLOTTENBURG
CHARLOTTENBURG
LEIBNIZST

LEIBNIZST

RASSE RASSE
L E R CS HT I L L E R S T
SCHIL S

G O E T H E SGTOREATSHSEES T R A S S E
0 metres 0 metres 400 N 400 N
0 yards 0 yards 400 400
 1"'

SCHLOSS
CHARLOTTENBURG
EXPERIENCE Around Schloss Charlottenburg

 A4 ⌂ Spandauer Damm 20–24  Jungfernheide, Westend  Richard-

Wagner-Platz, Sophie-Charlotte-Platz @ 109, 309, M45 # Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun ∑ spsg.de

Charlottenburg Palace is made up of two magnificent buildings:

the Altes Schloss (Old Palace) and Neuer Flügel (New Wing).
Built in 1695, the palace in Charlottenburg was intended as a
summer home for Sophie Charlotte, Elector Friedrich III’s wife.
Between 1701 and 1713 Johann Friedrich Eosander enlarged the
palace, crowning it with a cupola and adding the orangery wing. This
section of the palace is now known as the Altes Schloss. The Neuer
Flügel extension was undertaken by Frederick the Great (Friedrich II),
and designed by Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff in the mid-
18th century. Restored to their former elegance following World War II,
its collection of richly decorated interiors is unequalled in Berlin.

This sculpture
replaced the
original destroyed
in World War II.

Schlosspark, a favourite
weekend spot for locals

The Goldene Galerie, a Rococo garden

ballroom, dating from 1746
Fortuna by
Ricard Scheibe
crowns the
GALLERY GUIDE palace.
The ground floor of Altes Schloss houses
the opulent chambers of Friedrich III, a
Portrait Gallery and the Porcelain Cabinet.
The upper floors include the apartment
of Friedrich Wilhelm IV and a silver and
tableware collection.

212
 Must See
INSIDER TIP
Neuer Flügel
The New Wing has a
separate entrance from
the main section of the
palace, and requires a
separate ticket. It holds
the elegant apartments
and exquisite furniture
of Friedrich Wilhelm II,
and hosts art and
history exhibitions.

The central section of the

palace is the work of Johann
Arnold Nering

213
 Cherubs striking
playful poses in
royal Schlosspark

EXPERIENCE MORE
including herons. A bike path symmetry. Pillared galleries
2 runs along the Spree from the on the first floor added
Schlosspark palace park to the Tiergarten variety to the eastern and
(p170) and beyond. western elevations. A cast-
 A4 ⌂ Luisenplatz
iron balcony runs around the
 Westend  Richard-
entire structure. Like many
Wagner-Platz, Sophie-
other Schloss Charlottenburg
Charlotte-Platz 3" buildings, the pavilion burned
@ 109, 309, M45
Neuer Pavillon down completely in World
The extensive palace park that (Schinkel-Pavillon) War II and was rebuilt in 1960.
surrounds Schloss Charlotten-
 B4 ⌂ Luisenplatz
burg (p212), crisscrossed with
(Schlosspark Charlotten-
tidy gravel paths, is a favourite
burg) § 30 32 09 11
place for Berliners to stroll at

EAT
 Westend  Richard-
the weekend. The park is
Wagner-Platz, Sophie-
largely the result of recon-
Charlotte-Platz @ 109,
struction work carried out
309, M45 # Apr–Oct: 10am– Brauhaus Lemke am
after World War II, when 18th-
5:30pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: Schloss
century prints were used to
noon–4pm Tue–Sun Set right beside the
help recreate the varied
layout of the original grounds. This charming Neo-Classical Schloss Charlottenburg,
Immediately behind Schloss pavilion, with its clean lines this classic brewhouse
Charlottenburg is a French- and first-floor balcony, was makes a convenient
style Baroque garden, made built for Friedrich Wilhelm III spot for post-tour
to a strict geometrical design and his second wife, Princess sustenance. The
with a vibrant patchwork of Auguste von Liegnitz. During interior is as
flowerbeds, carefully trimmed a visit to Naples, the king was reassuringly traditional
shrubs and ornate fountains. so impressed by the Villa as the menu, which
Further away from the palace, Reale del Chiamonte that he features home-brewed
beyond the curved carp lake, commissioned Karl Friedrich beer and filling, meat-
is a less formal English-style Schinkel (p28) to build him heavy German food.
landscaped park, originally something similar. The  B4 ⌂ Luisenplatz
laid out in the 1820s under the pavilion was finished for the # noon–midnight daily
direction of the renowned king’s birthday on 3 August ∑ lemke.berlin
royal gardener, Peter Joseph 1825. Schinkel designed a ¡¡¡
Lenné. The lakes and water- two-storey structure with a
ways of the park are the central staircase and ranged
habitat of various waterfowl, the rooms around it in perfect

214
The display inside the pavilion scenes. One scene depicts
reveals the original splendour 5 the kingdom surrounded by
of the aristocratic interiors, Reiterdenkmal des figures representing Peace,
enhanced with pictures and Grossen Kurfürsten History and the Spree river;
sculptures of the period. The another shows it protected by
 A4 ⌂ Luisenplatz
prize picture is a renowned embodiments of Bravery, Faith
 Westend  Richard­
panorama of Berlin dated and Strength (represented by
Wagner­Platz, Sophie­
1834, painted by Eduard the figure of Hercules).
Charlotte­Platz @ 109,
Gärtner from the roof of
309, M45
the Friedrichswerdersche
Kirche. You can also admire The Monument to the Great
paintings by Schinkel, not only Elector (Friedrich Wilhelm) is 6
a great architect but also a the finest in Berlin and was Gipsformerei Berlin
fine painter of fabulous paid for by his son, Elector
 A4 ⌂ Sophie­Charlotten­
architectural fantasies. Friedrich III (later King
Strasse 17–18 § 32 67 69 11
Friedrich I). Designed by
 Westend  Sophie­
Andreas Schlüter to be cast
Charlotte­Platz @ 309,
in one piece, the statue was
4" completed in 1703, and
M45 # 9am–4pm Mon–Fri
(to 6pm Wed); may vary
Mausoleum erected near the former Berlin
during exhibitions
palace, by Lange Brücke (now
 A4 ⌂ Luisenplatz
called Rathausbrücke). The Founded by Friedrich
(Schlosspark Charlotten­
statue was moved to safety in Wilhelm III in 1819, the Berlin
burg) § 32 09 14 46
World War II, but ironically, on Replica Workshop produces
 Westend  Richard­
the return journey, the barge original-sized replicas from
Wagner­Platz, Sophie­
transporting the monument items in Berlin museums and
Charlotte­Platz @ 109,
sank in the port of Tegel. other collections, and also
309, M45 # Apr–Oct:
In 1949 the statue was repairs damaged sculptures.
10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
retrieved intact from the Visitors are welcome to this
¢ Nov–Mar
water and erected here on a modest brick building west of
Queen Luise, the beloved first copy of the base. The original Schloss Charlottenburg and
wife of Friedrich Wilhelm III, base finally ended up in the can purchase items on the
was laid to rest in this modest, Bode-Museum topped with a spot or choose from cata-
dignified building, set among replica of the statue. logues to have them made
the trees in Schlosspark. The The statue portrays the to order and shipped home.
mausoleum was designed by Great Elector as a warrior on Sculptures are generally
Karl Friedrich Schinkel, in the horseback, triumphant over copied in white plaster or
style of a Doric portico- the figures of prisoners of war painted true to the original.
fronted temple. around the base. The base Most moulds originate from
In the original design, the itself is decorated with the Middle Ages, the Renaiss-
queen’s sarcophagus was patriotic reliefs of allegorical ance and the 19th century.
housed in the crypt while
the tombstone (a cenotaph
sculpted by Christian Daniel THE GREAT ELECTOR (1620–88)
Rauch) stood in the centre of The Elector Friedrich Wilhelm was one of the
the mausoleum. After the most famous rulers of the Hohenzollern
death of Friedrich Wilhelm in dynasty. He inherited the position of
1840, the mausoleum was ruler of Brandenburg-Prussia in
refurbished, an apse added 1640, and one of his first duties was
and the queen’s tomb moved to rebuild the region after the
to one side, leaving room for devastation of the Thirty Years’
her husband’s tomb, also War (1618–48). In 1660 he wrested
designed by Rauch. The the Duchy of Prussia territory from
second wife of the king, Poland. During the course of his
Princess Auguste von Liegnitz, reign, Berlin became a
was also buried in the crypt powerful city, and rich
of the mausoleum. families from all over
Between 1890 and 1894, Europe – fleeing
the tombs of Kaiser Wilhelm I persecution in their
and his wife, Auguste von own land – chose
Sachsen-Weimar, were added to settle here.
to the crypt. Both monuments
are the work of Erdmann Encke.
 restoration of a few villas
7"'= enables the visitor to get a
Käthe-Kollwitz- feel for what the atmosphere
Museum must have been like at the Did You Know?
end of the 19th century. It is
 A4 ⌂ Spandauer Damm Charlottenburg was
worth taking a stroll down
10  Westend  Richard- named after Sophia
Schlossstrasse to look at the
Wagner-Platz, Sophie- Charlotte of Hanover
renovated villas, especially
Charlotte-Platz @ 109, after she died
No. 67, which was built in
EXPERIENCE Around Schloss Charlottenburg

309, M45 ¢ Renovation in 1705.

1873 in a Neo­Classical
until summer 2022
style to a design by Georg
∑ kaethe-kollwitz.de
Töbelmann. If you conti­
This museum provides nue the walk down nearby
a unique opportunity to Schustehrusstrasse, you’ll 10
become acquainted with see an interesting school Luisenkirche
the work of Käthe Kollwitz building at No. 39–43. Just up
 B5 ⌂ Gierkeplatz 4
(1867–1945). Born in Königs­ the road at No. 55 is the fine
§ 341 90 61  Richard-
berg, the artist settled in Villa Oppenheim, home of the
Wagner-Platz, Sophie-
Berlin, where she married Charlottenburg­Wilmersdorf
Charlotte-Platz @ 109, M45
a doctor who worked in Museum, open to the public
# 9am–1pm Mon, Tue, Thu
Prenzlauer Berg, a working­ except on Mondays.
& Fri, 2–6pm Wed
class district (p118). Her
drawings and sculptures This small church dates
portrayed the social prob­ back to 1716, but its original
lems of the poor, as well as 9" Baroque styling was removed
human tragedy and suffer­ Museum Scharf- in rebuilding undertaken by
ing. She frequently took up Gerstenberg Karl Friedrich Schinkel (p28)
the theme of motherhood in the 1820s, when the church
 B4 ⌂ Schlossstrasse 70
and war after losing a son was renamed in memory of
 Richard-Wagner-Platz,
and grandson in World Queen Luise (1776–1810).
Sophie-Charlotte-Platz
Wars I and II. The shape of the church is
 Westend @ 309, M45
based on a traditional Greek
# 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
cross, with a tower at the
11am–6pm Sat & Sun
front. The interior fixtures and
8 ∑ smb.museum
fittings are not the originals,
Schlossstrasse Villas The two 1850s pavilions on and the elegant stained­glass
either side of Schlossstrasse windows were made in 1956.
 A5 ⌂ Schlossstrasse
were intended as officers’
65–67  Sophie-Charlotte-
barracks for the King’s Guard
Platz @ 309
du Corps. Adjoining the east­
Most of the historic villas ern one is the Marstall, or 11
and buildings that once stable block, and in this can Belvedere
graced Schlossstrasse no be found the Museum Scharf­
 A3 ⌂ Spandauer
longer exist. However, careful Gerstenberg. The museum
Damm 20–24 (Schlosspark
presents paintings, sculptures,
Charlottenburg) § 32 09
works on paper and even
10  Westend  Richard-
films by Surrealist and asso­
Wagner-Platz, Sophie-
ciated artists such as Dalí,
Charlotte-Platz @ 109,
Magritte, Max Ernst, Paul Klee
309, M45 # Apr–Oct:
and Jean Dubuffet, and also
10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
older works by Goya, Piranesi
¢ Nov–Mar
and Redon. More than 250
objects are presented over The Belvedere is a summer
three floors, explaining the house in the Schlosspark
history of surreal art, with which served as a tea pavilion
pieces from almost all the for Friedrich Wilhelm II and, in
leading Surrealists. times of war, as a watchtower.
It dates from 1788 and was
designed by Carl Gotthard
Langhans. The architect mixed
Spiral staircase below the Baroque and Neo­Classical
cupola of the Museum elements, giving the building
Scharf-Gerstenberg an oval central structure with
 A formal green
avenue leading up
to the Belvedere

four straight-sided annexes. The Belvedere is a summer house in

The building is crowned by
a low dome topped with a
the Schlosspark which served as a tea
sculpture of three cherubs pavilion for Friedrich Wilhelm II and,
supporting a basket in times of war, as a watchtower.
of flowers.
Though the Belvedere
was ruined during World entrusted his collection
War II, the summer house to the city of his birth. The 13 "
was reconstructed between museum opened in what was Bröhan-Museum
1956 and 1960 and adapted once the west pavilion of the
 A5 ⌂ Schlossstrasse 1a
to serve as an exhibition space. barracks using space freed
 Westend  Richard-
The exhibition is a large collec- up by moving the Antiken-
Wagner-Platz, Sophie-
tion of exquisite porcelain sammlung to Museumsinsel.
Charlotte-Platz @ 109,
from the Berlin Königliche The exhibition halls were
309, M45 # 10am–6pm
Porzellan-Manufaktur (Royal modified according to the
Tue–Sun ∑ broehan-
Porcelain Workshop), which designs of Hilmer and Sattler,
museum.de
has pieces from the Rococo who also designed the layout
period up to late Biedermeier, of the Gemäldegalerie (p158). This small but interesting
including some outstanding The Museum Berggruen is museum, set in a late Neo-
individual items. particularly well known for Classical building, houses a
its large collection of quality collection of decorative arts
paintings, drawings and amassed by Karl H Bröhan,
gouaches by Pablo Picasso. who from 1966 collected
12 " - = The collection begins with works of art from the Art
Museum Berggruen a drawing from his student Nouveau (Jugendstil or
days in 1897 and ends with Secessionist) and Art Deco
 A4 ⌂ Schlossstrasse 1
works he painted in 1972, periods. The paintings of the
 Westend  Richard-
one year before his death. artists particularly connected
Wagner-Platz, Sophie-
In addition to these, the with the Berlin Secessionist
Charlotte-Platz @ 109,
museum displays more than movement, such as Karl
309, M45 # 10am–6pm
60 works by Swiss artist Paul Hagemeister and Hans
Tue–Fri, 11am– 6pm Sat &
Klee and more than 20 works Baluschek, are especially
Sun ∑ smb.museum
by Henri Matisse. The museum well represented. Alongside
Heinz Berggruen assembled also houses paintings by the paintings there are fine
this tasteful collection of art other major artists, such as examples of arts and crafts
dating from the late 19th and Georges Braque and Paul in other media: furniture,
first half of the 20th century. Cézanne. The collection is ceramics, silverwork and
Born and educated in Berlin, supplemented by some textiles. There is glasswork
he emigrated to the US excellent sculptures, particu- by Émile Gallé and porcelain
in 1936, spent most of his larly those of Henri Laurens from some of the finest
later life in Paris, but later and Alberto Giacometti. European manufacturers.

217
 A SHORT WALK
AROUND THE SCHLOSS
Distance 2 km (1.5 miles) Nearest U-Bahn
station Richard-Wagner-Platz Time 20 minutes
EXPERIENCE Around Schloss Charlottenburg

The park surrounding the former royal summer residence in Charlottenburg

is one of the most picturesque places in Berlin, making for a beautiful walk in
every season. Visitors are drawn here by the luxury Baroque complex and
outlying structures, which were meticulously rebuilt after World War II. The
marvellous interiors were once home to Prussian nobles, and now the wings
of the palace and its pavilions house interesting exhibitions.

French-style garden in
Schlosspark The central
section of Schloss
Charlottenburg is called
Nering-Eosanderbau,
in honour of the
architects who designed
the building (p212).

Did You Know?

Charlottenburg was
an independent city
until 1920.

Kleine Orangerie

The monument to the Great

Elector at the entrance of Schloss
Charlottenburg was funded by his
son King Friedrich I and designed
by Andreas Schlüter (p215).

START

Neuer Flügel, the palace’s newest wing,

was once home to the royal art collection.
Today the building houses changing art
and history exhibits.

218
 In the Neo-Classical
Mausoleum built for
Queen Luise, members
of the royal family are AROUND SCHLOSS
laid to rest (p215). CHARLOTTENBURG

Locator Map
For more detail see p210

0 metres 150 N
0 yards 150

FINISH

In 1960 Karl Bobeck created

the group of statues that
surmount the Belvedere,
in imitation of the original
figures which were designed
by Johann Eckstein (p216).

The Schlosspark is a French-style

park, laid out in a geometric
pattern, extending behind the
palace (p214).

In front of the
western elevation
of the Neuer Pavillon
are two granite
columns (1840),
topped by statues of
Victory, the work of
Christian Daniel
Rauch (p214).

The Mausoleum’s
elegant, Doric-
style entrance

219
Memorials to Red Army soldiers in Treptower Park

BEYOND THE CENTRE

In 1920 seven towns were incorporated into Berlin,
along with 59 communes and 27 country estates –
each of which had been evolving independently
for many years. Over the following decades the
faces of many of these boroughs changed, but
some places have kept their small-town or rural
character. Thanks to this diversity, a stay in Berlin
can simultaneously equate to visiting several
cities. A short journey by S-Bahn enables you to
travel from the cosmopolitan city centre of the
21st century to the vast forests of the Grunewald
or the beach at Wannsee lake. You can explore
everything from Dahlem’s tranquil streets lined
with villas, to Spandau’s Renaissance citadel,
cobbled lanes and the vast Gothic church of
St-Nikolai-Kirche – all just half an hour away
from the centre of Berlin and well worth a visit.

221
 Hohen Hohen
Neuendorf
Neuendorf
BEYOND THE CENTRE
Must See
1 Neukölln

Experience More
Hennigsdorf
Hennigsdorf
2 Schloss Britz Frohnau Frohnau

3 Alt-Rixdorf
4 Britzer Garten Hermsdorf
Hermsdo
5 Treptower Park
Heiligensee
Heiligensee
6 Schloss Friedrichsfelde & Tierpark Zoo
7 Deutsch-Russisches Museum
8 Stasi-Museum
9 Stasi-Prison SCHLOSS
SCHLOSS TEGEL TEGEL
10 Köpenick Tegel Tegel
VILLA BORSIG
VILLA BORSIG
11 Gethsemanekirche
12 Zeiss-Grossplanetarium Tegeler Tegeler
See See
13 Mauerpark
14 Schloss Schönhausen Re
15 Jüdischer Friedhof Weissensee
Berlin Berlin
16 Haus des Rundfunks Hakenfelde
Hakenfelde Tegel Airport
Tegel Airport

17 AEG-Turbinenhalle W
18 Wedding
19 Gedenkstätte Plötzensee SPANDAUHaselhorstHaselhorst
SPANDAU

20 Villa Borsig
21 Le Corbusier Haus Sp re e Sp re e

22 Schloss Tegel OLYMPIA-OLYMPIA-

STADION GEORG- GEORG-
STADION
Wilhelm-Wilhelm-
23 Messegelände stadt stadt KOLBE- KOLBE-
HAUS DES
HAUS DES
MUSEUMMUSEUM
24 Funkturm RUNDFUNK
RUNDFUNKS
LE CORBUSIER
LE CORBUSIER HAUS HAUS
25 Georg-Kolbe-Museum
FUNKTURM
FUNKTURM
26 Spandau
Halensee Halen
27 Olympiastadion MESSEGELÄNDE
MESSEGELÄNDE
28 Strandbad Wannsee
W
29 Königskolonnaden Grunewald
Grunewald
30 Rathaus Schöneberg GRUNEWALDTURM
GRUNEWALDTURM Schmargendorf
Schmargendorf
31 Grunewaldturm
32 Grabstätte von Heinrich von Kleist Berliner Berliner See Dahlem
See map,
Dahlem map,
Have l Have l
Forst Forst
p247 p247
33 Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz GrunewaldGrunewald

34 Museumsdorf Düppel DAHLEM

DAHLEM
35 Villenkolonie Alsen
36 Dahlem
37 Potsdam STRANDBAD
STRANDBAD
WANNSEE Zehlendorf
WANNSEE Zehlendorf Li

HAUS
HAUS DER DER WANNSEE-KONFERENZ
WANNSEE-KONFERENZ
Nikolassee
Nikolassee MUSEUMSDORF
MUSEUMSDORF
VILLENKOLONIE
VILLENKOLONIE ALSEN ALSEN
Wannsee Wannsee DÜPPELDÜPPEL
GRABSTÄTTE
GRABSTÄTTE VON VON
See Potsdam
See Potsdam
map, map,
HEINRICH
HEINRICH VON KLEIST
VON KLEIST
p251 p251
Kleinmachnow
Kleinmachnow Schönow Schönow

POTSDAM
POTSDAM Teltow Teltow

Babelsberg
Babelsberg

Stahnsdorf
Stahnsdorf

Te mpl i n e r Templi ner

See See
Drewitz Drewitz
 Mühlenbeck
Mühlenbeck 0 kilometres
0 kilometres
3 3 N N
0 miles 0 miles 3 3

ZepernickZepernick

Schildow Schildow
Buch Buch

orf

Lübars Lübars
Karow Karow

RosenthalRosenthal
Blankenburg
Blankenburg
Wittenau Wittenau
Niederschönhausen
Niederschönhausen
SCHLOSS
SCHLOSS
SCHÖNHAUSEN
SCHÖNHAUSEN Ahrensfelde
Ahrensfelde
Wartenberg
Wartenberg
Pankow Pankow Heinersdorf
Heinersdorf
Reinickendorf
einickendorf

Gesund- Gesund-
GETHSEMANE-
GETHSEMANE-
brunnen brunnen Weissensee
Weissensee
WEDDING
WEDDING KIRCHE KIRCHE
Hohenschönhausen
Hohenschönhausen
MAUERPARK
MAUERPARK ZEISS- ZEISS- Marzahn Marzahn
GEDÄNKSTÄTTE
GEDÄNKSTÄTTE GROSSPLANETARIUM
GROSSPLANETARIUM
STASI-PRISON
STASI-PRISON
PLÖTZENSEE
PLÖTZENSEE
JÜDISCHER
JÜDISCHER
AEG-TURBINENHALLE
AEG-TURBINENHALLE FRIEDHOF
FRIEDHOF
WEISSENSEE
WEISSENSEE
Lichtenberg
Lichtenberg

STASI-MUSEUM
STASI-MUSEUM
KS C E N TCREANLTBREARL LBI N
ERLIN
Biesdorf Biesdorf
Rummelsburg
Rummelsburg SCHLOSSSCHLOSS
FRIEDRICHSFELDE
Friedrichsfelde
Friedrichsfelde FRIEDRICHSFELDE
nsee AND TIERPARK
AND TIERPARK
ZOO ZOO
KÖNIGSKOLONNADEN
KÖNIGSKOLONNADENTreptow Treptow
TREPTOWER
TREPTOWER
PARK PARK
Wilmersdorf
Wilmersdorf
Schöneberg
Schöneberg DEUTSCH-
DEUTSCH-
NEUKÖLLN
NEUKÖLLN KarlshorstKarlshorst RUSSISCHES
RUSSISCHES
RATHAUS RATHAUS
SCHÖNEBERG
SCHÖNEBERG MUSEUMMUSEUM
ALT-RIXDORF
ALT-RIXDORF
FriedenauFriedenau

TempelhofTempelhof
Steglitz Steglitz Baumschulenweg
Baumschulenweg

Spre Spre
e e
Britz Britz
SCHLOSS
SCHLOSS
BRITZ BRITZ KÖPENICK
KÖPENICK
Mariendorf
Mariendorf
Lichterfelde
ichterfelde AdlershofAdlershof
Lankwitz Lankwitz BRITZER
BRITZER
GARTENGARTEN Gropiusstadt
Gropiusstadt

Buckow Buckow Grünau Grünau

Marienfelde
Marienfelde Rudow Rudow

BohnsdorfBohnsdorf
Schönefeld
Schönefeld
Lichtenrade
Lichtenrade

Berlin Berlin
SchönefeldSchönefeld
Airport Airport
 GETTING TO KNOW
BEYOND THE CENTRE
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre

Although most visitors to Berlin will spend their time roaming the inner
city, the Ortsteile (localities) in the surrounding boroughs offer plenty
more sights and surprises. The GDR-era museums and architecture of
the East, the mellow districts in the northwest and the sparkling lakes
of the southwest are all just an S-Bahn or bicycle ride away.

EAST OF THE CENTRE Best for

GDR history and architecture,
PAGE 226

East of Friedrichshain lie the less gentrified districts strolls, local culture
of Lichtenberg, Hohenschönhausen, Marzahn and Home to
Treptow-Köpenick. Largely demonised in the nineties, Neukölln, Tierpark, Stasi-
the areas’ prefabricated residential blocks today draw a Museum, Köpenick, Mauerpark
mix of former East Berliners, immigrants and students
Experience
priced out of the city centre. You’ll find a clutch of The cobbled-streets of
GDR-era sights well worth exploring, including the medieval Alt Rixdorf
Gedenkstätte Hohenschönhausen and the Stasi-
Museum Berlin, plus more natural attractions such
as the charming but low-key Tierpark.

224
 NORTHWEST

PAGE 236
OF THE CENTRE
The many forests, parks, lakes and
rivers of the northwest act as a natural
magnet for city-dwellers looking for
a weekend getaway. The area is also
dotted with local attractions and
impressive structures that exemplify
key moments in Berlin’s fascinating
history: from the medieval Spandau
and its Renaissance citadel to
the enormous Third Reich-era
Olympiastadion and the modernist
(and monolithic) Le Corbusier Haus.

Best for
Architecture, strolls, culture
Home to
Zitadelle Spandau, Olympiastadion
Experience
The area’s natural splendour or the
architecture and history at the Nazi-era
Olympiastadion on a tour

SOUTHWEST Best for

Nature, walks, beaches
PAGE 240

OF THE CENTRE Home to

This area contains some of the city’s finest natural Strandbad Wannsee,
beauty and is the place to head in the summer months. Rathaus Schöneberg
The sandy lido at the villa-lined lake Wannsee is a Experience
major warm-weather destination, and there is a A stroll along the crisscrossing
plethora of beautiful outdoor attractions in the towns pathways of Grunewald
of Dahlem and Potsdam. For German culture and forest to the striking hilltop
history, you can find a top-notch collection of German Grunewaldturm
Expressionism at the Brücke Museum and a medieval
atmosphere at Museumsdorf Düppel.

225
 1

NEUKÖLLN
 Hermannplatz @ 171, 194, M29, M41, N7, N9, N94

This thriving neighbourhood has become home to a large population

of people from around the world, as young students, creatives and
EXPERIENCE East of the Centre

professionals flock here for the cheap rents and cool atmosphere.
Characterized by a vibrant mixture of
international expats, Neukölln is one of the city’s
fastest-growing – and fastest-gentrifying –
districts. Some tourists would ignore the
neighbourhood after seeing traffic-heavy drags
like Sonnenallee and the bleak main square,
Hermannplatz – but those willing to explore
further will soon see why it’s so popular with the
locals. Areas such as those around Schillerstrasse
and Weserstrasse – not to mention Kreuzkölln –
are lined with bistros, galleries and boutiques.
While there aren’t many major sights in the area
there are still a few places worth visiting, such
as the pretty Körnerpark, the Kindl Centre for
Contemporary Art, Schloss Britz (p228), Britzer
Garten and Neukölln’s historic centre, Alt-Rixdorf.

The central Berlin skyline

from Klunkerkranich
rooftop bar

226
 Must See
KREUZKÖLLN
Reuterstrasse and
Hobrechtstrasse are the
streets directly south of the
Landwehrkanal between
Kotbusser Damm and
Pannierstrasse. They have
been nicknamed Kreuzkölln
since they overlap both the
Kreuzberg and Neukölln
districts. These streets
are characterized by a
particularly dense concentration
of boutiques, bars, galleries,
cafés and restaurants. The
Maybachufer embankment
of the canal also hosts a vibrant
Turkish market on Tuesdays
and Fridays, and a flea market
on Sundays.

Neukölln’s verdant
Körnerpark, an
attractive spot
Britzer Garten, one of the for many Berliners Did You Know?
city’s best green spots on sunny days
Neukölln is the name
of both the district and
the borough in which
it is located.

227
 EAST OF THE CENTRE
As well as housing a museum, Strasse and Sonnenallee,
the building is often used charming Alt Rixdorf (Old
as a venue for concerts Rixdorf) is a wonderful
and exhibitions. The palace hidden spot to explore. This
displays furnishings from the is the historical heart of the
EXPERIENCE East of the Centre

Gründerzeit – the years after Neukölln neighbourhood,

the founding of the German with pretty Richardplatz
Empire in 1871. The 19th- at the centre, founded in
century interiors are excellent, the mid-18th century by
but it is also worth strolling Protestant refugees from
through the lovely park, Bohemia. The cobbled streets
where there is a bust of one lined with historical buildings
of the palace’s former owners, still retain their old-world
Rüdiger von Ilgen, which once charm. Along Kirchgasse
Pretty Schloss Britz, stood in the Tiergarten. are the mid-19th-century
occasionally a venue for Next to the palace there remnants of the Bohemian
exhibitions and concerts stands a housing estate called village, whose history is told
Hufeisensiedlung (Horseshoe at the nearby Museum im
Colony), built in the late 1920s Böhmischen Dorf (Museum
to a design by Bruno Taut in a Bohemian Village) via
2 and Bruno Schneidereit. The exhibits on the traditions,
Schloss Britz architects’ aim was to create beliefs, art, crafts and lives of
spacious and affordable its inhabitants, then and now.
⌂ Alt-Britz 73  Parchimer
housing for Berliners. Other attractions include
Allee @ 181, M44, M46
picturesque Bethlehemskirche,
# 11am–6pm Tue–Sun
which sometimes hosts small
∑ schlossbritz.de
concerts; the old village forge,
Originally a small manor 3 dating back to 1624 and still
house built in 1706 for Alt-Rixdorf working today; and a similarly
Sigismund von Erlach, Schloss historical coach house.
 &  Berlin-Neukölln
Britz was extended to its
 Sonnennallee
current size in the 1880s to Museum im
 Karl-Marx-Strasse
a design by Carl Busse. It Böhmischen Dorf
@ 171, M41, N7
is a one-storey palace with a ⌂ Kirchgasse 5 # 2–5pm
modest Neo-Classical aspect Nestled gently between the Thu, noon–2pm 1st & 3rd Sun
adorned with Baroque statues bustling and unattractive of the month ⌂ museum
and a tower. thoroughfares of Karl-Marx- imboehmischendorf.de

PLÄNTERWALD
(SPREE PARK)
The small stretch of protected
forest (Plänterwald) that
leads down from Treptower
Park is a pleasant place to
stroll. It’s best known, though,
as the location of the
“Kulturpark”, which was built
in 1969 as the first theme park
in the GDR. Following
reunification, its rusting ruins
and fallen dinosaurs became a
pilgrimage destination for
urbex thrill-seekers but is now
owned by the city, who run
official tours of the site while
they decide what to do with it.

228
 Steps leading to the Red
Army monument, rising
above Treptower Park

with rose and herb gardens, between 1946 and 1949, it

and a tremendous, crowd- stands on the grave of 5,000

2,500,000 pulling display of tulips (over

500,000) in spring. Other
Soviet soldiers killed in the
battle for Berlin in 1945. The
attractions include a “witch gateway is marked by a vast
The number of Red Army
garden”, a small train that granite sculpture of a grieving
soldiers involved in the
carries visitors around and Russian Motherland surroun-
Battle of Berlin.
the largest sundial in Europe. ded by statues of Red Army
Of the three restaurants, the soldiers. This leads to the
one inside the Britzer Mühle mausoleum, topped by an
(mill) is the most interesting, 11-m- (35-ft-) high figure
though the Britzer See- of a soldier rescuing a child
4"\- terrassen has the nicest views and resting his mighty sword
Britzer Garten from its outdoor tables. on a smashed swastika.
In the furthest section
⌂ Sangerhauser Weg 1
of the park is the astronomical
 Alt-Mariendorf @ 179,
observatory, Archenhold
181, M44 # Opening times 5 Sternwarte, built for a
vary, see website ∑ gruen-
Treptower Park decorative arts exhibition
berlin.de/britzer-garten
held here in 1896. Given a
⌂ Alt-Treptow
This 4-ha (10-acre) park is permanent site here in 1909,
 Treptower Park
something of a city secret. the observatory was used by
@ 166, 265
Located in the south of Albert Einstein for a lecture
Neukölln (p226), it’s vast The vast park in Treptow was on the Theory of Relativity in
enough to contain a multitude laid out in the 1860s on the 1915. It is also home to the
of sights, from scenic lakes initiative and design of Johann longest refracting telescope
and springs, themed gardens Gustav Meyer. In January 1919 in the world (21 m, or 70 ft)
and playgrounds to a domestic it was where revolutionaries and a small planetarium.
animal enclosure with sheep, Karl Liebknecht, Wilhelm You can take a tour at 3pm
goats and donkeys, and Pieck and Rosa Luxemburg on weekends and at 8pm
several café-restaurants. Its assembled a 150,000-strong on Thursdays.
size and rolling terrain make group of striking workers
it feel more natural than its during the Spartacist uprising. Archenhold Sternwarte
landscaped heritage suggests, The park, however, is " ' ⌂ Alt-Treptow 1
with patches of grassland, best known for the colossal # 2–4:30pm Wed–Sun
streams and shrubs mixed in Soviet War Memorial. Built ∑ planetarium.berlin

229
EXPERIENCE East of the Centre

The grand Schloss on the night of 8 May 1945

Friedrichsfelde, that Hitler’s successor
and a cherub Grossadmiral Karl Dönitz,
figurine outside Field Marshal Wilhelm Keitel,
the palace (inset) Admiral Hans-Georg von
Friedeburg and General
Hans-Jürgen Stumpff signed
in 1957. The animal the unconditional surrender
inhabitants include all of of Germany’s armed forces.
the usual favourites and You can visit the officers’
there are masses of family-
6" friendly experiences.
Schloss
Friedrichsfelde Tierpark Zoo

⌂ Am Tierpark 125

 Tierpark @ 194,
" \ - = # Nov–Feb:
9am–4:30pm daily; March,
Sep & Oct: 9am–6pm daily;
EAT
296, 396 v 27, 37, M17 Inselcafé
Apr–Sep 9am–6:30pm
# Summer: 10am–6pm The main restaurant on
daily ∑ tierpark-berlin.de
daily; rest of year: 10am– the Insel der Jugend
4:30pm daily ∑ schloss- (Island of Youth) has a
friedrichsfelde.de menu that stretches to
The Baroque Friedrichsfelde 7 goulash, coconut curry
Palace was built for Dutchman Deutsch-Russisches and pasta dishes, as
Benjamin von Raule around Museum (Berlin- well as coffee, cake and
1695, to a design by Johann Karlshorst) waffles throughout the
Arnold Nering. A redesign day. In summer there
⌂ Zwieseler Strasse are deckchairs set out
in 1786 gave the residence
4/Rheinsteinstrasse right by the river.
its present-day appearance,
 Karlshorst @ 296
typical of the style during ⌂ Insel der Jugend
v 27, 37, M17 # 10am–
the transition from Baroque # Apr–Oct: noon–6pm
6pm Tue–Sun ∑ museum-
to Neo-Classical. It now daily; Nov–Mar: noon–
karlshorst.de 6pm Sun
houses a museum of interiors,
chiefly furnished with 18th- This building was erected ∑ inselberlin.de
and 19th-century pieces. in the 1930s for the engineer- ¡¡¡
The palace’s park was ing corps of the Wehrmacht
remodelled to become the (the armed services of the
East Berlin Tierpark Zoo Third Reich). It was here

230
mess hall in which the
signing took place and Spy camera designed to
the office of Marshal be concealed under clothing,
Zhukov, and see an exhi- on show at the Stasi-Museum
bition documenting the
history of World War II.
State Security and a Big
Brother-like figure. Mielke’s
legacy of suffering still lives
8"' on in the memory of millions
Stasi-Museum of German citizens. The
interior is just as it was when
⌂ Ruschestrasse 103
the Stasi used the complex. in 1938. In May 1945 the
(Haus 1)  Magdalenen­
Tours are held in English occupying Russian authorities
strasse # 10am–6pm
on Saturday, Sunday and created a special transit
Mon–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat
Monday at 3pm. camp here, in which they
& Sun ∑ stasimusem.de
interned war criminals sub-
Under the GDR, this huge sequently transported to
complex of buildings housed Siberia. Shortly thereafter
the Ministry of the Interior 9' they started to bring anyone
and the infamous Stasi (GDR Stasi-Prison under political suspicion to
secret service) headquarters. (Gedenkstätte Berlin- the camp. During this time
The Stasi was, without doubt, Hohenschönhausen) more than 20,000 people
one of the most effective and passed through here.
⌂ Genslerstrasse 13a
repressive intelligence and From 1946 this group of
 &  Lichtenberg, then
secret police agencies to buildings was refashioned
@ 256 to Liebenwalder­
have ever existed. into the custody area for the
strasse/Genslerstrasse
One of the buildings houses KGB, and in 1951 it was given
v 16 to Genslerstrasse,
a museum that describes over for the use of the Stasi.
M5 to Freienwalder, M6
the organizational structure, Visitors can see prisoners’
# 9am–6pm daily
history and ideology of the cells and interrogation rooms.
∑ stiftung­hsh.de
Stasi. It includes photographs Housed in the cellars was
and documents depicting the This museum is housed in the “submarine” – cells for the
Stasi’s activities. The breakup the former custody building most “dangerous” suspects.
of the Stasi is covered, as well of the Stasi – the dreaded Tours are offered daily
as an overview of subsequent security service of the GDR. in both German and English.
events leading up to the The custody building was Many of the German-language
reunification of Germany. part of a huge complex built guides are former inmates.
A model of the headquarters
is on display, as well as equip-
ment used for bugging and The Stasi was, without doubt, one
spying on citizens. You can
see the office of the infamous
of the most effective and repressive
Stasi chief Erich Mielke, com- intelligence and secret police agencies
mander of the Ministry for to have ever existed.

The grim exterior of

the Stasi-Prison, a
feared destination

231
 modest houses have survived van Langefeld. The three-
10 which recall the 18th century, storey Baroque building that
Köpenick next to buildings from the resulted was extended to a
end of the 19th century. design by Johann Arnold
 Spindlersfeld, then @ 167
At Alt Köpenick No. 21 is a Nering, but until 1693 only
or  Köpenick, then @ 164
vast brick town hall designed part of the extension was
v 60, 61, 62, 67, 68
in the style of the Brandenburg completed: the chapel,
Köpenick is much older than Neo-Renaissance by Hans entrance gate and a small
Berlin. In the 9th century AD Schütte and Hugo Kinzer. It gallery wing. In 2004 the
EXPERIENCE East of the Centre

this island contained a was here on 16 October 1906 Kunstgewerbemuseum

fortified settlement called that a famous swindle took (p156) opened a series of
Kopanica, inhabited by Slavs. place. Wilhelm Voigt dressed Renaissance and Baroque
From the late 12th century, himself in a Prussian officer’s rooms in the Köpenick palace.
Köpenick belonged to the uniform and proceeded to
Margrave of Brandenburg. In “arrest” the mayor and then Schloss KÖpenick
about 1240 a castle was built, fraudulently empty every- " ' = ⌂ Schlossinsel 1
around which a town began to thing from the city treasury. # 11am–5pm Tue–Sun
evolve, though over the years This incident inspired a comedy, ∑ smb.museum
it lost out in importance to The Captain from Köpenick by
Berlin. Craftsmen settled here, Carl Zuckmayer, which is still
and after 1685 a large colony popular today. HIDDEN GEM
of Huguenots followed suit. Köpenick’s greatest Müggelsee
In the 19th century attraction is a magnificent Köpenick is home to
Köpenick recreated itself as palace, Schloss Köpenick, on Müggelsee, Berlin’s
an industrial town. Despite the island in the southern part largest lake. It’s a great
wartime devastation, it has of town. It was built in the late city escape for both
retained its historic character. 17th century for the heir to locals and tourists, with
By the old market square and the throne, Friedrich (later hills, forests and plenty
in nearby streets, such as Alt King Friedrich I), to a design of bathing areas.
Köpenick and Grünstrasse, by the Dutch architect Rutger

Köpenick's robustly
grand town hall,
completed in 1904

232
 Stunning imagery
at the Zeiss-Gross-
planetarium

period’s most important Kollwitzplatz (p132), a

11 architects of churches and welcoming, leafy square with
Gethsemanekirche railway stations. an atmosphere reminiscent of
The Protestant community Paris. Nearby Kollwitzstrasse
⌂ Stargader Strasse 77
of Gethsemanekirche is is home to an organic farmers’
 &  Schönhauser Allee
proud to have pioneered market on Saturdays.
∑ ekpn.de
civil rights movements, and
The Neo-Gothic red-brick hosted anti-Nazi rallies from
building of Gethsemane 1933 to 1945. The congre-
Church is perhaps the most gation also questioned the 12 '
famous church in northeast Socialist regime after World Zeiss-Gross-
Berlin, playing as it did a War II, while the church itself planetarium
crucial role in East Germany’s served as an assembly hall
⌂ Prenzlauer Allee 80
peaceful revolution. This for peaceful opponents in
(Ernst-Thälmann-Park)
Protestant church, solidly October 1989. On 2 October
 Prenzlauer Allee, then
built in oxblood-red brick that year, the praying crowd
@ 156 v M2 # 9am–5pm
in 1890, dominates the was brutally attacked by
Tue, 9am–8pm Wed & Thu,
neighbourhood. It was one the East German secret
9am–9:30pm Fri, 1–9:30pm
of several built on the order service police, marking the
Sat, 11:30am–6:30pm Sun
of Emperor Wilhelm II, who start of the Communist
∑ planetarium.berlin
wanted to increase religious regime’s demise.
worship among the mostly Today, the square is The silvery dome visible from
Social Democratic working surrounded by beautiful afar is a huge planetarium
classes living in Prenzlauer restored buildings, housing built in the grounds of a park
Berg and other areas. The many sidewalk restaurants, dedicated to the memory of
building was designed by cafés and quaint little shops. the interwar Communist
August Orth, one of the Only a few steps away is leader Ernst Thälmann,
who died at Buchenwald
concentration camp. The
The Protestant community of foyer houses an exhibition
of optical equipment and
Gethsemanekirche is proud to have various accessories produced
pioneered civil rights movements, and by the renowned factory
hosted anti-Nazi rallies from 1933 to 1945. of Carl-Zeiss-Jena.

233
EXPERIENCE East of the Centre

Catching some free

13 14 ' entertainment at
Mauerpark Schloss Schönhausen Mauerpark

⌂ Mauerpark, Gleimstrasse ⌂ Tschaikowskistrasse 1

 Bernauer Strasse,  &  Pankow @ 150, 250
17th century. Ownership of
Eberswalder Strasse v M1 # Jan–Mar: 10am–
the estate passed to the
v M10 4pm Sat, Sun & hols;
Elector Friedrich III in 1691,
Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm
Formerly part of the Berlin for whom Johann Arnold
Tue–Sun; Nov & Dec: 10am–
Wall (hence the name “Wall Nering designed the palace.
5pm Sat, Sun & hols
Park”), this largely treeless In 1704 it was extended to a
∑ spsg.de
expanse of lawn in Prenzlauer design by Johann Friedrich
Berg is a magnet for young This palace, located in an Eosander von Göthe, who
locals and tourists alike. extensive and picturesque added side wings. The palace
Although it can be a little park, belonged to the von was home to Queen Elisabeth
claustrophobic on warm days, Dohna family during the Christine, estranged wife of
it is a great spot for people-
watching.
Children love the park and
an artificial rock can be
climbed under professional
supervision. From around
3pm on Sundays, aspiring pop
stars can attempt karaoke at
the amphitheatre and
perform to a packed audience.
The giant eclectic flea market
held next to the park from
10am to 6pm on Sundays
attracts huge crowds of
mostly 20-somethings on the
lookout for a special bargain,
be it junk or vintage. Vegan
burgers and cold beers
complete the experience,
which can be a welcome
restorative treat after a visit
to the haunting Wall Memorial
nearby (p122).
The Mauerweg, a shared
walking and bicycle path,
follows the path of the old
Wall right across Mauerpark.

234
Frederick the Great, between pleasant character bestowed camps. Buried here are
1740 and 1797. In 1763 further on it by Peter Joseph Lenné renowned figures from Berlin’s
extensive refurbishment was in the 1820s. Jewish cultural and commercial
undertaken by architect past. Among others, here
Johann Boumann. The rest the publisher Samuel
property remained in the Fischer and the restaurateur
hands of the Prussian royal 15 Berthold Kempinski.
family for the next hundred Jüdischer Friedhof Some tombstones are
years. Among those who Weissensee outstanding works of art,
resided here were Princess such as that of the Panowsky
⌂ Herbert-Baum-Strasse
Auguste von Liegnitz, family, designed by Ludwig
45  Greifswalder Strasse,
following the death of her Hoffmann, or the Cubist
then v 12, M4, M13 @ 156,
husband, King Friedrich tombstone of Albert Mendel,
200 # Opening times vary,
Wilhelm III. designed by Walter Gropius.
see website ∑ jg-berlin.
After World War II the Some family graves are
org/judentum/friedhoefe/
rebuilt palace was occupied adorned with temple-like
weissensee.html
by the president of the structures. The Nazis left
German Democratic Republic, This extensive Jewish this burial ground largely
Wilhelm Pieck. In 1990, after cemetery, established in unharmed, but in 1999 the
discussions here, the treaty to 1880 according to a design cemetery was desecrated
reunify Germany was signed by Hugo Licht, is the final in an act of anti-Semitic
on 3 October that year. Make resting place of more than vandalism. More than 100
time for a stroll through the 115,000 Berliners, many of headstones were kicked
vast park, which has kept the whom were victims of Nazi over and some were smeared
persecution. It is chilling to with swastikas.
note that many surnames Still in use today, most of
listed on gravestones simply the new graves in this plot
no longer exist in Germany, belong to Jewish immigrants
Did You Know? due to whole families being
eradicated or driven out
from the former Soviet Union,
who outnumber the German-
Peter Joseph Lenné also of the country. born Jews in Berlin.
designed the Tiergarten By the main entrance is
and Park Sanssouci. a place of remembrance for
the victims of the Holocaust, Entrance hall to the
with plaques bearing the Jüdischer Friedhof
names of the concentration Weissensee
 NORTHWEST OF THE CENTRE
of modern architecture becoming more attractive to
y dating from the beginning renters and buyers. Volkspark
Haus des Rundfunks of the 20th century. It was Rehberge, a beautiful park,
commissioned by the elec- is a hidden gem.
⌂ Masurenallee 8–14
tronics company AEG in
EXPERIENCE Northwest of the Centre

 Messe Nord/ICC
1909 and designed by Peter
 Theodor-Heuss-Platz
Behrens in conjunction with
@ 104, 218, X34, X49
Karl Bernhardt. While former 19
This building’s depressing, flat, Berlin’s industrial buildings Gedenkstätte
brick-covered façade hides an were mostly red-brick and Plötzensee
interior of startling beauty. The fortress-like, the Turbinenhalle
⌂ Hüttigpfad  Beusel-
huge edifice was constructed was among the earliest
strasse, then @ 123 # Mar–
as a radio station between structures not to incorporate
Oct: 9am–5pm daily; Nov–
1929 and 1931 to a design by any element, decorative or
Feb: 9am–4pm daily
Hans Poelzig. The building has otherwise, that reflected
∑ gedenkstaette-
a triangular shape, with three previous architectural styles.
ploetzensee.de
studio wings radiating from A huge hangar of a building,
the central five-storey hall. The it has enormous windows and A narrow street leads from
impressive Art Deco interiors, stretches 123 m (400 ft) down Saatwinkler Damm to the
which are spectacularly lit from Berlichingenstrasse. The Plotzensee Memorial, marking
above, are enhanced by geo- principal design imperative the site where nearly 2,500
metrically patterned rows of was to maintain a streamlined people convicted of crimes
balconies and large, pendulous, profile, while making no effort against the Third Reich were
octagonal lamps. They rep- to disguise the construction hanged. It is a simple memorial
resent one of the finest materials. Today, the building in a brick hut, which still has
architectural achievements is part of the Siemens company the iron hooks from which the
of this era in Berlin. and is still used as a factory. victims were suspended.
From the studio concert While the main figures in the
hall, concerts are often unsuccessful assassination
broadcast on the RBB attempt on Hitler, on 20 July
radio station (Rundfunk i 1944, were executed in
Berlin-Brandenburg). Wedding Bendlerblock (p175), the rest
of the conspirators were killed
 &  Wedding, Gesund-
here. Count Helmuth James
brunnen  Seestrasse,
von Moltke, one of the leaders
u Osloer Strasse @ 133, 222,
of the German resistance
224, then a 15-minute walk
AEG-Turbinenhalle movement, was also executed
Wedding is an interesting, here. The count organized the
⌂ Huttenstrasse 12–19
up-and-coming area. Artists Kreisauer Kreis – a political
 Turmstrasse, then
are taking over abandoned movement which united
@ M27
industrial buildings, a lively German opposition to Hitler.
This building is one of the most theatre and gallery scene is
important textbook examples developing and the area is
20
Villa Borsig
⌂ Reiherwerder  Alt
Tegel @ 133, 222, 224, then
a 15-minute walk

This villa sits on a peninsula

which cuts into the Tegeler
See, reminiscent of Schloss
Sanssouci in Potsdam (p254).
It was built much later,
however, between 1911 and
1913. It was designed by
Urban landscape in the Alfred Salinger and Eugen
district of Wedding Schmohl for the Borsigs, one

236
 Schloss Tegel,
designed by Karl
Friedrich Schinkel
Did You Know?
Alexander von Humboldt
to build over 500 two-storey 16th century there was
referred to Schloss Tegel
apartments with integral already a manor house on this
as Schloss Langweil, or
services, such as a post office, site, which in the second half
“Boredom Palace”, as it
shops, a sports hall and nurs- of the 17th century was rebuilt
was far from Berlin.
ery school. Financial pressures into a hunting lodge for the
prevented all of Le Corbusier’s Elector Friedrich Wilhelm
aspirations from being fulfilled; (p215). In 1766 the ownership
of the wealthiest industrialist nevertheless, the monolithic of the property passed to the
families in Berlin. This villa is building was a milestone for Humboldt family, and, from
particularly picturesque when West Berlin’s postwar archi- 1820 to 1824, Karl Friedrich
seen from the lake, so it is tecture. For some, it will always Schinkel (p28) thoroughly
worth looking out for it from be the “Wohnmaschine” rebuilt the palace, giving it
a boat cruise. (dwelling machine) and they its current style.
criticize the jail-like hallways, There are tiled bas-reliefs
called “streets” by the decorating the elevations on
architect. Others praise the the top floor of the towers.
a' Bauhaus-inspired clear lines, These were designed by
Le Corbusier Haus airy, light-filled apartments Christian Daniel Rauch and
and the architectural departure depict the ancient wind gods.
⌂ Flatowallee 16
from ornamental features. Some of Schinkel’s marvellous
 Olympiastadion @ 149,
The apartments are mostly interiors have survived, along
218 ∑ corbusierhaus-
privately owned, but you can with several items from what
berlin.org
see the interior on tours that was once a large collection of
This apartment building by take place on Saturdays; check antique sculptures. The palace
Le Corbusier, on a hill near the the website for details. is still privately owned by
site of the Olympiastadion descendants of the Humboldt
(p239), was the architect’s entry family, but guided tours are
to the 1957 Internationale offered at 10am, 11am, 3pm
Bauausstellung. His innovative s"' and 4pm on Mondays from
design for what he called Schloss Tegel May to September. It is also
a Unité d’Habitation was an worth visiting the park. On
⌂ Adelheidallee 19–21
attempt to create fully self- its western limits lies the
§ 886 71 50  Alt Tegel
sufficient housing estates Humboldt family tomb,
@ 133, 222 # May–Sep:
in answer to a Europe-wide designed by Schinkel and
10am, 11am, 3pm & 4pm
housing shortage. He built decorated with a copy of
Mon ¢ Oct–Apr
three of these complexes, a splendid sculpture by
the most famous being in Schloss Tegel is one of the Bertel Thorwaldsen; the
Marseilles. For his Berlin most interesting palace original piece stands inside
design, Le Corbusier wanted complexes in Berlin. In the the palace.

237
EXPERIENCE Northwest of the Centre

The Georg-Kolbe-Museum,
with its collection of 20th-
century sculpture

Trained as a painter and

23 24 " draughtsman, Kolbe became
Messegelände Funkturm famous for his expressive
works that came to symbolize
⌂ Hammarskjöldplatz ⌂ Hammarskjöldplatz
the early freedoms of the
 Messe Nord/ICC  Messe Nord/ICC  Kaiser­
Weimar era (p57).
 Kaiserdamm @ 104, 139, damm @ 104, 218, 349, X34
Kolbe also left the city 180
349, X49 # Opening times vary, see
of his sculptures and his art
website for details
The pavilions of these vast collection, which includes
∑ funkturm­messeberlin.de
exhibition and trade halls works by the Expressionist
cover more than 160,000 sq m This radio tower, which painter Ernst Ludwig Kirchner
(1,700,000 sq ft). Many of resembles Paris’s Eiffel Tower, and the sculptor Wilhelm
the international events has become one of Berlin’s Lehmbruck. The museum has
organized here are among most recognizable landmarks. expanded its collection to
the largest events of their Built in 1924 to a design by include many more sculptures
kind in Europe. Heinrich Straumer, it rises by Kolbe’s peers. Visiting here
The original exhibition halls 150 m (500 ft) into the air. It is not only a rare chance to get
on this site were built before now operates as both an air­ to know Kolbe’s works but also
World War I, but nothing of traffic control tower and radio an opportunity to see his house
those buildings remains. The mast. Visitors can enjoy views and workshop, which displays
oldest part is the Funkturm on the observation terrace at tools and various devices for
and the group of pavilions 125 m (400 ft), or dine at the lifting a heavy sculpture.
which surround it. The huge Funkturm’s lofty restaurant at Workshops with sculptors
building at the front – Ehren­ 55 m (180 ft). The terrace may are held here regularly, and
halle – was built in 1936 to a close for safety in bad weather. exhibitions on challenging
design by Richard Ermisch, and topical subjects, for
and is one of the few surviving example contemporary body
buildings in Berlin designed in image, draw large audiences.
a Fascist architectural style. 25
The straight motorway that Georg-Kolbe-Museum
lies at the rear of the halls, in A castle was first
⌂ Sensburger Allee 25
the direction of Nikolassee, is
 Heerstrasse @ 218, X34,
built on the site of
the famous Avus, the first Ger­ the Zitadelle
X49 # 10am–6pm daily
man Autobahn, built in 1921. It
was adapted for motor racing
∑ georg­kolbe­museum.de Spandau (Spandau
and became Germany’s first One of the most renowned citadel) in the 12th
car­racing track. It was here German sculptors, Georg century, but today
that the world speed record Kolbe (1877–1947) bequeathed only the 36-m (120-
was broken before World the house in which he lived
War II. Now it forms part and worked for almost his ft) Juliusturm (Julius
of the Autobahn system. entire life to the city of Berlin. tower) remains.

238
26
Spandau
 Altstadt Spandau,
Zitadelle @ X33

Spandau is one of the oldest

towns in the Greater Berlin
area. Evidence of the earliest
settlement dates back to the
8th century, although the
town of Spandau was only The Olympiastadion,
granted a charter in 1232. built for the historic
The area was spared the 1936 Berlin Olympics
worst of the World War II
bombing, so the town has
managed to retain a away in a military prison after 1936 Olympic Games in Berlin.
distinctive,historical character. the 1946 Nuremberg trials. It was designed by Werner
The heart of the town is a Today, the Zitadelle is a March in the Nazi architectural
network of medieval streets fascinating place to explore, style and was inspired by the
with a picturesque market and hosts a popular music architecture of ancient Rome.
square and a number of festival in summer. To the west of the stadium
original timber-framed lie the Maifeld and the
houses. In the north of Zitadelle Spandau Waldbühne.The Maifield is an
Spandau sections of the 15th- " ' \ - = ⌂ Am enormous assembly ground
century town wall still stand, Juliusturm 64 # 10am–5pm fronted by the Glockenturm,
and in the centre of town is daily ∑ zitadelle-berlin.de a 77-m (250-ft) bell tower with
the magnificent Gothic St- a viewing platform. The bell
Nikolai-Kirche, dating from inside the tower is a replica
the 14th century. of the original, which was
A castle was first built on 27 ' damaged during World War II
the site of the Zitadelle Olympiastadion and is now on display outisde
Spandau (Spandau citadel) the stadium. The Waldbühne
⌂ Olympischer Platz
in the 12th century, but today is an open-air amphitheatre
 &  Olympiastadion
only the 36-m (120-ft) with a design inspired by the
@ 218, M49 # Opening
Juliusturm (Julius tower) ancient theatre of Epidaurus
times vary, see website for
remains. The fortress was in Greece.
details ∑ olympiastadion.
built between 1560 and 1590, Following a €236-million
berlin
to a design by Francesco refurbishment, the stadium
Chiaramella da Gandino. The plans for this stadium reopened in 2004 as a high-
Though the citadel had a jail, were conceived in 1933, tech arena. The Deutsches
Rudolf Hess, Spandau’s most when Adolf Hitler ordered the Sportmuseum next to the
infamous resident, was construction of a grandiose stadium also hosts concerts
incarcerated a short distance sporting complex for the and shows.

ZITADELLE SPANDAU
This magnificent, perfectly proportioned
16th-century citadel stands where the
Spree and Havel rivers meet. Both the main
citadel and its 19th-century additions are
still in excellent condition. It holds museums
of local history and an observation terrace
on the Juliusturm.
Key
1 Bastion Kronprinz 5 Bastion König
2 Bastion 6 Bastion Königin
Brandenburg 7 Juliusturm
3 Palace 8 Ravelin
4 Main gate Schweinekopf

239
 SOUTHWEST OF THE CENTRE
lake cruise, bathe or simply
28 enjoy relaxing on the shore. 29
Strandbad Wannsee Near S-Bahn Wannsee Königskolonnaden
there are yachting marinas (Kleistkolonnaden)
⌂ Wannseebadweg 2s
and harbours, while further
EXPERIENCE Southwest of the Centre

# 30 22 19 00 11 ⌂ Potsdamer Strasse

north is one of the largest
 Nikolassee @ 218  Kleistpark
inland beaches in Europe –
@ 106, 204, M46
The vast, picturesque lake of Strandbad Wannsee. It has
Wannsee, situated on the been in use since the begin- A short walk north of U-Bahn
edge of the Grunewald forest, ning of the 20th century, Kleistpark, the unremarkable
is a principal destination for and was developed between architecture of Potsdamer
Berliners who are looking for 1929 and 1930 with the Strasse suddenly transforms
recreation. Here you can take construction of a complex dramatically. Leading to the
part in water sports, enjoy a of changing rooms, shops, park, the elegant sandstone
and cafés on top of man- Königskolonnaden (Royal
made terraces. Colonnade) captivates the
On sunny summer days, passer-by with its Baroque
sun-worshippers completely ornamental sculptures.

EAT
cover the sandy shore, while Designed by Carl von Gontard
the lake is filled with yachts and built between 1777
and windsurfers. It is also and 1780, it once graced the
In summer, the quite pleasant to take a walk route from Königsstrasse to
sparkling Wannsee around Schwanenwerder Alexanderplatz (p106). In 1910,
lake is a favoured island. It has many ele- to protect it from traffic, it
destination for locals gant villas, one of which, was moved to this new site.
and visitors alike, Inselstrasse No. 24/26, was The huge Kammergericht
so there are plenty of built for Axel Springer, the at the far boundary of the
great dining options German newspaper publisher. park was built between 1909
here for those who
want a day trip out
from the city centre.
Bootshaus Bolle
⌂ Am Grosser
Wannsee 60
# Noon–8pm daily
∑ bootshaus-bolle.de

¡¡¡

Wannseeterrassen
⌂ Wannseebadweg 35
# Noon–10pm daily
∑ wannseeterrassen.
berlin

¡¡¡

Clubrestaurant am
Wannsee im MYCvD
⌂ Scabellstrasse
10–11 # 3–10pm Wed–
Fri, 1–10pm Sat & Sun
¢ Mon & Tue
∑ restaurant-
wannsee.de

¡¡¡
Strandbad Wannsee,
ideal for taking a
break from city life

240
and 1913 to a design by
Carl Vohl, Rudolf Mönnich and HIDDEN GEM
Paul Thömer. The site of the Grunewaldturm
notorious Nazi Volksgericht For those who don’t like
or “People’s Court”, it was also heights, the Grunewald
used to try members of the Tower is still worth a
failed July 1944 bomb plot visit, not only for the
against Hitler. From 1945 to ground-floor restaurant
1958 it was the official seat of but also the mosaic
the Allied Control Council, and decorating the ceiling of
is now the Supreme Court of the memorial hall. The
the state of Berlin. Neo-Byzantine design
was created by August
Oetken (1868–1951), a
German painter and
30 mosaic artist.
Rathaus Schöneberg
⌂ John-F-Kennedy-Platz 1
 Rathaus Schöneberg
assembled to hear the young
@ 104, M46
president say, “Ich bin ein
The gigantic building with Berliner” – “I am a Berliner” –
a tower dominating the as an expression of solidarity
Schöneberg district’s main from the democratic world to
square is its town hall, built a city defending its right to
in 1914. From 1948 to 1990 it freedom. (An urban myth has
was used as the main town since claimed that the phrase
hall of West Berlin. It was here, actually means “I am a small Statue of Kaiser Wilhelm
on 26 June 1963, that US doughnut”, but this is in the Grunewaldturm
President John F Kennedy incorrect – although there is,
gave his famous speech. indeed, a small doughnut in
More than 300,000 Berliners Germany known as a berliner.)
31 \
Grunewaldturm
⌂ Havelchaussee 61 @ 218
# 10am–10pm daily

The Neo-Gothic tower built on

a hill at the edge of the Havel
river is one of the most prom-
inent features of the area. This
type of tower became popular
in Germany during the 19th
century as a way of commem-
orating important events or
people. The Grunewaldturm
was built in 1899 on the
centenary of the birth of
Wilhelm I. After 1871 he was
the first Emperor of the
Second Reich and the tower
was initially named “Kaiser-
Wilhelm-Turm”. The 56-m
(185-ft) tower was designed
by Franz Schwechten and is
made of red brick with plaster
details. The tower is made all
the more striking by the green
background provided by
the surrounding leafy trees.
The view from the top of
this structure is well worth
climbing the 204 steps for.

241
The pristine Havel river at dusk
 32
Grabstätte von
Heinrich von Kleist
⌂ Bismarckstrasse (near
No. 3)  Wannsee @ 114,
316, 318

A narrow street running from

EXPERIENCE Southwest of the Centre

Königstrasse at the viaduct

of the S-Bahn Wannsee
leads to the gravesite of the
playwright Heinrich von Kleist.
It is the spot where he
committed first murder and
then suicide; on 21 November
1811 he shot his companion
Henriette Vogel and then
turned the pistol on himself.
They are both buried here.
Modest stones mark their
grave, on which flowers
are left by well-wishers.

33
Haus der Wannsee-
Konferenz
⌂ Am Grossen Wannsee
56/58  Wannsee, then
@ 114 # 10am–6pm daily
∑ ghwk.de

This is one of the most

beautiful of the luxury holiday
villas on the shores of Lake meeting took place here
Wannsee, and yet because between Reinhard Heydrich 34 "
of its past, it is also the most and 14 other officers from Museumsdorf Düppel
abhorrent. Built in 1915 to a the secret service and
⌂ Clauertstrasse 11
design by Paul Baumgarten, the SS, among them Adolf
 Mexikoplatz or
it is in the style of a small Eichmann. It was then that
 Krumme Lanke, then
Neo-Baroque palace with an the decision was taken about
@ 118, 622 # Late Mar–
elegant portico. In 1940 the “the final solution on the
early Oct: 10am–6pm Sat,
villa was sold to the Nazi SS. question of Jews”. Their
Sun & public hols
On 20 January 1942, a plans for the outright
∑ dueppel.de
extermination of 11 million
Jews embraced the whole This reconstruction of a
of Europe, including Great medieval village has been
Britain and neutral countries. made on the site of a 13th-
Since 1992 this has been century settlement. It is a
a museum and place of living village surrounded by
remembrance. An exhibition still-cultivated gardens and
depicts the history of the fields, where traditional
Holocaust with some shocking breeds of pigs and sheep are
documents and photographs raised in pigsties and sheds.
from the ghettos and exter- On Sundays the village puts
mination camps. For security on displays of traditional
reasons, the gate to the villa crafts. Here you can see how
is always locked, and to primitive saucepans and tools
The gravestone of enter the park you have to were fashioned; how wool was
Heinrich von Kleist and announce yourself through spun, dyed and woven and
Henriette Vogel the intercom. how baskets were made.

244
 Max-Lieberman Villa,
part of Wannsee’s
Villenkolonie Alsen

No. 42, designed by Paul museum and houses around

35 " ' Baumgarten in 1909 for the 40 of Liebermann’s paintings.
Villenkolonie Alsen painter Max Liebermann
(1847–1935). Liebermann Max-Lieberman Villa
⌂ Am Grossen Wannsee
spent many summers here " - = # Times vary, see
 Wannsee, then @ 114
painting in the garden on the website for details
This clutch of villas on Lake lake shore. The villa is now a ∑ liebermann-villa.de
Wannsee forms a delightful
holiday resort – the oldest
of its kind in Berlin. The MAX LIEBERMANN (1847–1935)
villas are thought to be the One of the greatest German painters, Max
most beautiful in the district, Liebermann was also one of the most interesting
not just because of their and controversial figures of Berlin’s elite circles
picturesque lakeside location, at the start of the 20th century. A sensitive
but also because of the observer as well as an outstanding portraitist,
quality of their architecture. Liebermann was famously stubborn – he could
Strolling along Am Grossen stand up even to the Kaiser himself. From
Wannsee, it is worth looking 1920 he was president of the Akademie
at the villa at No. 39/41, known der Künste (Academy of Arts; p73),
as Haus Springer. It was but in view of his Jewish origin he
designed by the architect was removed from office in 1933.
Alfred Messel in 1901 and He died just two years later, alone,
is covered with shingles, a and his wife committed suicide to
reflection of contemporary escape being sent to a
American designs. concentration camp.
Another must-see is the
Max-Liebermann Villa at

245
 Sculpture by Bernhard
Heiliger in the gardens
of Kunsthaus Dahlem

also some paintings from the

m later creative periods of these

DAHLEM
artists, and works by other
closely associated figures.
Nearby, at Käuzchensteig
 Botanischer Garten, Rathaus Steglitz  Onkel Toms
No. 8, lie the foundation’s
Hütte, Oskar-Helene-Heim, Freie Universität (Thielplatz),
headquarters, established
Dahlem Dorf, Podbielskiallee, Breitenbachplatz @ 115,
in the former studio of the
110, M2, M48, M85, X10, X11, X83
sculptor Bernhard Heiliger.
The garden, which borders the
First referenced in documents from the 13th century, Brücke-Museum, has a display
Dahlem is one of the most interesting suburbs in of his metal sculptures.
Steglitz-Zehlendorf, a borough southwest of central
Berlin. An affluent and tranquil city suburb, the district
was confirmed as a major cultural and educational 2
centre after World War II with the establishment of Kunsthaus Dahlem
a university and a museum complex.
⌂ Käuzchensteig 8 @ 115,
X10 # 11am–5pm Wed–Mon
Die Brücke (p32), which
1"' originated in Dresden in 1905
∑ kunsthaus-dahlem.de
Brücke-Museum and was based in Berlin from This exhibition venue was
1910. The members of this built between 1939 and 1942
⌂ Bussardsteig 9 @ 115
group included Karl Schmidt- as a studio for the sculptor
# 11am–5pm Wed–Mon
Rottluff, Emil Nolde, Max Arno Breker, one of the
∑ bruecke-museum.de
Pechstein, Ernst Ludwig most prolific sculptors of
One of the more interesting Kirchner and Erich Heckel. the Third Reich, on grounds
museums dedicated to 20th- The collection is based on provided by the government.
century art is hidden away on almost 80 works by Schmidt- In 1949, renowned sculptor
a leafy, tranquil street lined Rottluff, bequeathed to the Bernhard Heiliger, who was
with picturesque villas, in an town in 1964. The collection a student of Breker, moved
elegant Functionalist building quickly grew, thanks to into the east wing of the
designed by architect Werner donations and acquisitions. building and lived and worked
Düttmann. The museum In addition to displaying other in the complex until his
houses a collection of German works of art contemporary death in 1995. In the garden
Expressionist paintings linked to Die Brücke (which was adjacent to the Kunsthaus,
to the artistic group known as disbanded in 1913), there are more than 20 of his striking

246
 The Onkel-Tom-Siedlung project in
Zehlendorf was the realization of the
English concept of garden cities.
EAT
sculptures are exhibited. by Bruno Taut, Hugo Häring Miss Wu
During Heiliger’s time at and Otto Rudolf Salvisberg. For something
the site, different parts of Their primary intention was different, head to Miss
the complex were leased to to solve the city’s housing Wu, which combines
other prominent artists from shortage by building large friendly service with
around the world. developments that were a surprisingly broad
Since 2015, the building both pleasant to live in and repertoire of Chinese
has served as an exhibition fairly inexpensive. The Onkel- classics, as well as
space for postwar German Tom-Siedlung project in several more unusual
Modernist art from both East Zehlendorf was the realization dishes. Vegetarian-
and West Germany, and also of the English concept of friendly too.
promotes contemporary art. garden cities.
⌂ Königin-Luise-Strasse
The result is an enormous 71, 14195 # noon–11pm
housing estate comprising daily ∑misswu.de
single- and multiple-family
3 houses. Set in lush greenery ¡¡¡
Onkel-Tom-Siedlung on the borders of Grunewald,
it accommodates nearly
⌂ Riemeister Strasse/
15,000 people.
Argentinische Allee
 Onkel Toms Hütte

This housing estate, known

as “Uncle Tom’s Estate”,
represents one of the most
interesting urban architectural
achievements of the Weimar
Republic (p57). It was built
from 1926 to 1932, to a design

The colourful
Onkel-Tom-Siedlung
housing estate

0 metres 800 N
L A U B AC H E R

SE
ST R A S S E

O
RAS LEN RS
RST TZE KO
0 yards 800 Brücke- KLE ALLE ST
PÜC E E
Museum DW
SÜ
EE

G
TIE
NS Breitenbachplatz
Kunsthaus NE
ALL

DOH
PO

Dahlem
EE

E ME R A L L
EE SC
HI
DB

Finkenpark IM
HOR L
ALL

SC LD
AY

DO
IE

Grunewald L HO
E
LS

RN
PACELLI
CL

LLE

L ST
KI

O
D
Podbielskiallee RA
AL

IM SS
ENGLERA

E
LE

.
TR
HÜ

SS

St-Annen-
TTENWEG

IU

Kirche Domäne
PS

GRUNEW
Dahlem
DAHLEM
LE

Miss Wu AL
DS
Botanisches TR
KÖ N I G I N - L U I S E - S T R A S S E
R.

AS
Alte Krug Museum
ST

SE
G EL FE R T STRASSE

SS

Alliierten- Museum Wrangel-Schlösschen

LO

Dahlem-Dorf (Gusthaus Steglitz)

Wald- Europäischer
SC H

museum
TH

FA

friedhof Kulturen
BE
IELA

Onkel-Tom- Thiel-
CK

park Rathaus
Siedlung Botanischer
ST

Steglitz
E

RA

TR

Garten
LL
LLE

BI R T R A
SS

NS

EN
EE

Freie
S
KB SS
EI

ENTINISCHE ALLEE CH
AYA

EI
ST

US E

ARG SAARGEM Universität

CH
EN

ÜN N
STRASSE DER DE
-

Onkel
CL

A LT

Oskar-Helene- Freie Universität R

Toms Hütte (Thielplatz) TE
Heim Botanischer
UN Garten

247
 5"-

DRINK Museum Europäischer

Kulturen
Alter Krug ⌂ Arnimallee 25  Dahlem
For something Dorf @ 110, X11, X83
traditional and German, # 10am–5pm Tue–Fri,
this classic wood- 11am–6pm Sat & Sun
EXPERIENCE Dahlem

panelled pub- ∑ smb.museum

restaurant offers a
The Museum of European
smart interior, German
Culture is an ethnographic
menu and a beer garden
museum that specializes in
large enough to seat
European folk art and culture,
500 people.
and documents the daily life
⌂ Königin-Luise- of its inhabitants. It hosts
Strasse 52 # 11am– long-running exhibitions,
11pm Mon–Sat,
often in conjunction with
10am–11pm Sun
museums from other
∑ alter-krug-berlin.de
European countries. Among
the exhibits on display
are earthenware items,
costumes, jewellery,
4"\-= toys and tools.
Domäne Dahlem
⌂ Königin-Luise-Strasse 49
 Dahlem Dorf @ 110, X11, 6
X83 # Opening times vary,
Freie Universität
see website for details
∑ domaene-dahlem.de ⌂ Henry-Ford-Bau,
Garystrasse 35–39  Freie
Domäne Dahlem, a city-farm
Universität @ 110
that combines a manor house
∑ fu-berlin.de
and farming estate, is a rare
oasis of country life in the The Free University was housing the Philological
Berlin suburbs. The Baroque established on 4 December Library, which is nicknamed
house was built for Cuno 1948 on the initiative of a the “Berlin Brain” due to its
Johann von Wilmersdorff group of academics and cranial shape.
around 1680 and still retains activists, led by Ernst Reuter.
its original character. Part This was a reaction to the
of the Stadtmuseum Berlin restrictions introduced at the
(Berlin City Museum), it boasts Humboldt Universität in the 7"'\-=
period interiors, while the Soviet sector, and further Botanischer Garten
19th-century farm buildings evidence of the competition
⌂ Unter den Eichen 5–10 &
hold a collection of agricultural between the two halves of
Königin-Luise-Strasse 6–8
tools and a large and varied the city. The university was
 Botanischer Garten
collection of beehives. initially located in rented
 Dahlem-Dorf @ M48,
Domäne Dahlem is a buildings. It was only thanks
X83 # 9am–8pm daily
working farm as well as to the American Ford Found-
∑ bgbm.org
a museum, with gardens, ation that the Henry-Ford-
workshops and farm animals. Bau, housing the rector’s The Botanical Garden is one
There is a small charge to office, the auditorium and the of the most beautiful places
enter the museum; the library, was built. Designed by in Berlin. It was created
grounds are free. Festivals Franz-Heinrich Sobotka and towards the end of the 19th
and markets held here Gustav Müller and completed century and has a romantic
demonstrate rural crafts and in 1954, the building is distin- character, dotted with gentle
skills, and there is plenty for guished by its fine proportions. hills and picturesque lakes. Of
children to see and do. There Another architectural particular interest is the 19th-
is a farm shop selling local, highlight is the Humanities century palm house, designed
sustainable foods, including and Social Science building, by Alfred Koerner. The huge
the farm’s produce, and an designed by Norman Foster greenhouses were constructed
organic food market on and finished in 2005. It has between 1984 and 1987 to a
Saturday mornings. a glass-domed centrepiece design by Engelbert Kremser.

248
 The magnificent Palm
House and Chinese
pavilion (inset) in the
Botanical Gardens

The most popular plants architecture. It currently

are the exotic species such houses the cultural centre 0
as the orchids and cacti. for the district of Steglitz. St-Annen-Kirche
There is also the Botanisches
⌂ Königin-Luise-Strasse 55
Museum (Botanical Museum),
§ 831 38 13  Dahlem Dorf
home to an excellent collec­
tion of plant specimens. 9' @ 110, X11, X83 # 11am–
1pm Sat & Sun
Alliiertenmuseum
At the centre of a small leafy
⌂ Clayallee 135  Oskar-
cemetery stands the Gothic
8 Helene-Heim # 10am–6pm
14th­century St­Annen­Kirche.
Thu–Tue ∑ alliierten
Wrangel-Schlösschen The church was built initially
museum.de
(Gusthaus Steglitz) with a plain roof. The chancel
In the heart of the former was completed in the 15th
⌂ Schlossstrasse 48
US military sector of Berlin century, the vaulting in the
§ 902 99 39 24  Rathaus
is the Allied Museum, which 17th century and the tower
Steglitz @ M2, M48, M85
combines exhibition space was added in the 18th century.
This compact Neo­Classical with open­air grounds. Inside, 14th­century wall
palace derives its name from A fascinating exhibition paintings depict scenes from
Field Marshal Wrangel, the of everyday objects, military the life of St Anna, along­
building’s mid­19th­century memorabilia, photographs side items of ecclesiastical
owner. However, the house and films explains life during furnishings. These include
was built much earlier, in 1804. the Cold War and the story a 15th­century painting of
The simplicity and clarity of of Berlin and its inhabitants the Crucifixion and 11 late
its details make it a prime between 1945 and 1994. Gothic figures of saints.
example of early Neo­Classical Tours are by appointment. The cemetery, which dates
back to the 13th century, is
also worth exploring. It has
COUNTRY CHURCHES a 1996 monument dedicated
The establishment of Greater Berlin in 1920 swallowed to the victims of Nazi tyranny.
up nearly 60 villages, some of which were older than the During the war, the pastor
city itself. Now they have evolved into large residential here was Martin Niemöller,
estates, and more than 50 of the parish churches have a founder of the Confessing
survived. The most treasured, dating from the 13th Church, a Protestant move­
century, are in the south of Berlin, for instance in Britz by ment that resisted the
Backbergstrasse, Buckow (Alt-Buckow), Mariendorf (Alt Nazification of churches.
Mariendorf) and Marienfelde (Alt Marienfelde). He was sent to a concentra­
tion camp in 1938, but he
survived his imprisonment.

249
EXPERIENCE Potsdam

in the English style designed

, by Peter Joseph Lenné. This

POTSDAM
park extends right up to the
Neues Palais (p252). To the
south, surrounding the
 & £ Potsdam Hauptbahnhof £ Park Sanssouci,
small palace, extends the
Charlottenhof @ 605, 606, 610, 631, N14, X5, X15
Charlottenhof Park, also
v 91, 94, 98 n Luisenplatz 3; 9:30am–6pm Mon–Sat,
designed by Lenné. In the
10am–4pm Sun & hols; www.potsdamtourismus.de
northern section of the park,
next to the Orangerie (p259),
Southwest of Berlin lies Potsdam, the capital of is the Nordischer Garten and
Brandenburg and one of the most interesting cities the Paradiesgarten.
in Germany. Tourists flock here to see the royal Park The range of different
Sanssouci where an eclectic and lovely mix of buildings garden styles makes a simple
stroll through this park
seem to bloom along with the plants and flowers in particularly pleasant. There
beautifully landscaped gardens. are also a large number of
sculptures, columns, obelisks
began on Schloss Sanssouci and grottoes for the visitor
1 (p254). Today, the park is made to explore. The vistas and
Park Sanssouci up of smaller gardens dating perspectives that suddenly
from different eras, each of open up across the park and
⌂ Schopenhauerstrasse/
which has been maintained in the picturesque groupings
Zur Historischen Mühle
the original style. At the foot of trees are also beautiful.
@ 612, 614, 695
of Schloss Sanssouci is the
This vast park (whose name oldest section, containing the
means “without worries” in Dutch garden, a number of
French), covers some 3 sq km fountains and the French- 2
(1 sq mile). It was established style Lustgarten (pleasure Communs
in 1725 on the site of an garden), with a symmetrical
⌂ Am Neuen Palais
orchard, however, it was layout and lovely rose beds.
@ 605, 695
only transformed into an The eastern part of the park
enormous landscaped park is called the Rehgarten, a This area of Park Sanssouci
when construction work beautifully landscaped park consists of a pair of two-storey

250
 Vineyards leading up
to one of the palaces in
Park Sanssouci

pavilions linked by a
semicircular colonnade.
They are unusually elegant
buildings considering they
were used for servants’
quarters and the palace
kitchens. However, they also
served to screen from view
the cultivated fields that
extended past the park
from the palace. The Communs,
The Communs were built tucked away behind
in 1769 by Carl von Gontard, the Neues Palais
to a design by Jean-Laurent
Le Geay. The buildings are
enclosed by an elegant court- servants of the king’s guests.
yard. The kitchen was in the Today, the rectors’ offices
south pavilion, linked to the and part of the medicine
palace by an underground department of the University
passageway, and the north of Potsdam are located in
pavilion accommodated the the Communs.

R.
NALLEE

W EI N M E I ST E R ST
NEDLITZER ST

PO
Biosphäre Schloss
E

TS Jüdischer EN
LE

DA Volkspark Cecilienhof
Friedhof
GART
AL

Potsdam
G. HERMAN

ME
CH

R
ST
RS

RA
Neuer
N
HKINALLE
KI

SS
UE

E KIE Garten
RASSE

PEN
SE
R.

NE

Volkspark HEU
OS

KA
Potsdam
ERA
LLE Heiliger
AM
GR

TH E
AR See
NST

IN
Marmorpalais
PUSC

EH PAP
PEL Alexandrowka
O ALL
C K S TR.
E

S LZ EE
BORN

AM N

D ST
-

N
STR NBERG

U R.
E

M
.
ASS

EU

A
ST

E L
STE

NALLE
NE

EN
E

EICHE
RIBBE

LEG
RUI

F. - E BE RT- S TR .

WEG
GA
SCH

RE
DT

A LL E E

AI
RT E

LT
ER

ST VO
N

R.
POTSDAM
R.

TR .
MA ERTS
JÄ G E R

BEHL BE
Schloss
ST

UL HL
BE Orangerie
ER Sanssouci END E L- S T R .
ER

ALL
G R EG O R - M
ER T

EE Holländisches
IN

Historische Mühle CH Restaurant Viertel

S

RL

.
S

Neues L ST R
TR.

Neue Kammern O PE Juliette LEIB

BE

Palais NH
EE GSTR.
Bildergalerie A ALL GUTE
NBER
H A U P TA L L E E EL Peter und
HEG
UE

Park Paul Kirche Französische

RS

Communs Sanssouci Kirche

TR .

.
Friedenskirche ER STR
ÖKONOMIEWEG NBURG N S T R.
BRANDE LO T T E
CHAR
LINDENA

LUISEN-
Chinesisches
STR.

PLATZ
.

PLATZ DER
ESTR

Haus
AM NEUEN P

ÉSTRAS SE
Römische LENN
EINHEIT
ANAL
DORTU

AM K
YO R C K
Bäder ST R .
LIND

FEUER
Nikolaikirche
VENUE

BACH S
TR.
BREITE
Schloss Wasserwerk ST R . Marstall Altes Rathaus
ALAIS

Charlottenhof Sanssouci (Filmmuseum)

Museum Barberini
GESCHWI Neuer Landtag
Park STER-SCH
LA RÜC

OL L-ST R A S S E
B

Gleis 6
N K

Sanssouci
GE E

1.5km (1 mile)
Charlottenhof FRIEDRICH-LIST-STR.
Potsdam
E Hauptbahnhof
SS FRIEDRIC
H-EN
A
Havel GEL
S
R

-S T R .
FOR

ST

E
A SS
N

ERG
LI
STS

TR

Filmpark Babelsberg
PP

S
SB

3.5km (2 miles)
TRA

R
E

U
Z

A
E

H
ZIG

Havel AU
HE NN -
MA
SSE

BR
IN ALL
LEIP

RIC E E

E
STRASS
H-

INER
0 metres 800 N PL
M

Telegrafenberg
TE

0 yards 800
 3"'\-=

NEUES PALAIS
⌂ Am Neuen Palais @ 605, 606, 695 # Apr–Oct: 10am–
6pm Wed–Mon; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed–Mon ∑ spsg.de

The stunning New Palace was designed to be an

EXPERIENCE Potsdam

impressive display of Prussia’s glory and power

after its victory in the Seven Years’ War.
This imposing Baroque palace, on the main avenue in Park
Sanssouci, was built at the request of Frederick the Great. The
initial plans were prepared in 1750 by Georg Wenzeslaus von
Knobelsdorff. However, construction only began in 1763, after The entrance to
the Seven Years’ War (1756–63), to a design by Johann Gottfried the Neues Palais is
Büring, Jean Laurent Le Geay and Carl von Gontard. The result through the gate on
was a vast two-storey building, decorated with hundreds of the western façade
sculptures and more than 200 richly adorned rooms, which
together make up one of Germany’s most beautiful palaces.

Did You Know?

The palace was rarely
used as a royal residence,
but instead hosted guests
for celebrations.

Neues Palais,
built after the
Seven Years’ War

INSIDER TIP
Baroque Nights
For a few evenings in the
summer, the Baroque era
is brought back to life The Rococo interior of
during the annual the Upper Gallery is
Potsdam Palace Nights. decorated with Italian
paintings and a
Brilliant lights transform
beautiful inlaid floor.
Park Sanssouci into a
magical world of music,
theatre and history.

252
 Must See

The central dome is

topped by a gilded
royal crown, carried
by a sculpture of
three nymphs. The elegant Upper Vestibule
was designed by Carl von
Gontard. The walls are
covered with Silesian marble
and the ceiling depicts Venus The vast Marmorsaal
and the Graces. ballroom features walls
inlaid with marble and a
beautiful painting on the
ceiling. The gallery was
used by the orchestra.

1
3
1 In the Grottensaal, images of
sea creatures on the wall are made
of mosaics of shells and coral.
2 The Silver Room, with details
made of real silver leaf.
3 Hundreds of detailed statues
decorate the façade of the
Neues Palais, as well as the
2 grounds and the palace interior.

253
 4"'=

SCHLOSS
SANSSOUCI
EXPERIENCE Potsdam

⌂ Park Sanssouci @ 612, 614, 650, 695 v 91, 94, X8 # Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun;
Nov & Dec: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Jan–Mar: 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun ∑ spsg.de

A terraced vineyard creates a peaceful approach to Sanssouci Palace, the oldest

building in the Park Sanssouci complex. Designed as an intimate royal hideaway,
this miniature Rococo palace has captivated visitors for centuries.

The name Sanssouci is French for “without a interiors were designed by Knobelsdorff and
care” and gives a good indication of the Johann August Nahl. The king clearly loved this
flamboyant character of this enchanting palace, as his final wishes were that he should
Rococo palace, built in 1745. The original be buried here, near the tomb of his Italian
sketches, made by Friedrich II (Frederick greyhounds. He was actually interred in the
the Great) himself, were finalized by Georg Garnisonkirche, Potsdam, but his wishes were
Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff. The glorious eventually carried out in 1991.

The Voltaire Room

is decorated with
naturalistic
carvings.

Bacchanalian
sculptures by
Friedrich
Christian Glume
adorn the façde.

An oxidized green
dome covers the
Marmorsaal
(marble hall).

Frederick the Great

wanted the Marmorsaal
to be loosely based on
the Pantheon in Rome.

The walls of the

Konzertzimmer
(concert room) are
decorated with
paintings based on
Greek mythology.
Despite its grand ,
traditional style, the
Marmorsaal is open
and inviting

254
 Must See

The Rococo style

façade on the
garden side

Did You Know?

The grand wings of the
palace were built 63 years Picturesque arbours
after the death of its and pergolas decorated
most famous resident, with sun motifs
Friedrich II. complete the palace
design

The colonnade
frames the view of
Ruinenburg Hill.
GREAT VIEW
The Ruins
From the north side of
the palace you can see
some imposing ruins on
the Ruinenberg Hill.
They are completely
artificial, built in the
mid-18th century
purely as a decoration.

The library of Friedrich II

contains about 2,100
books. The walls are lined
with cedar panelling to Schloss Sanssouci,
create a contemplative an intimate royal
atmosphere. summer residence

255
 EXPERIENCE MORE
Frederick the Great
5"' (Friedrich II) ordered the
Neue Kammern building to be remodelled
as guest accommodation.
⌂ Zur Historischen Mühle
The architect, Georg Christian
EXPERIENCE Potsdam

(Lustgarten) § 0331 969

Unger, left the elegant
42 00 @ 695 # Apr–Oct:
Baroque exterior of the
10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
orangery largely untouched
The New Chambers is a and instead concentrated Italianate styling at
Rococo pavilion containing on converting the interior. the Römische Bäder,
residential apartments. It As well as the sumptuous or Roman baths
is the mirror image of the guest suites, the new design
Bildergalerie (p258) and included four elegant halls.
was originally built as an The best of these is the picturesque landscaped
orangery in 1747 to a design Ovidsaal, with its rich reliefs park which was designed
by Georg Wenzeslaus von and marble floors. by Peter Joseph Lenné.
Knobelsdorff. In 1777

POTSDAM 6" 7"

TOWN GATES Schloss Römische Bäder
The city of Potsdam Charlottenhof
⌂ Lenné-Strasse (Park
was enclosed by a ⌂ Geschwister-Scholl- Charlottenhof) @ 605, 606
wall in 1722. This wall Strasse 34a (Park v 91, 94, 98 # May–Oct:
did not serve a Charlottenhof) @ 605, 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
defensive purpose – 606 v 91, 94 # 1 May– ∑ spsg.de
it was supposed to 31 Oct: 10am–5pm
contain criminals and A picturesque group of
Tue–Sun ∑ spsg.de
prevent soldiers from pavilions, situated by the
deserting. When the The small Neo-Classical edge of a lake, forms the
borders of the town Charlottenhof Palace is “Roman Baths”, which actually
were extended in located in the southern served as accommodation
1733, new districts extension of Park Sanssouci, for the king’s guests. It was
were also enclosed by Park Charlottenhof. It was designed by Karl Friedrich
the wall. There was a designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel, with the involvement
total of five city gates, Schinkel (p28) in 1829 for of Ludwig Persius, between
of which three the heir to the throne, later 1829 and 1840. At the front
remain. One of these King Friedrich Wilhelm IV. is the gardener’s house,
is the Jägertor, which This small one-storey building which is adjacent to an
has survived in its was built in the style of a asymmetrical low tower
original condition and Roman villa. The rear of the in the style of an Italian
dates from 1733. palace has a portico that Renaissance villa. In the
opens out onto the garden background, to the left,
terrace. Some of the wall extends the former bathing
paintings designed by pavilion, which is currently
Schinkel, which were used for temporary art
made in the so-called exhibitions. All of the pavil-
Pompeiian style, are ions are arranged around
still in place. The most
interesting part of
the interior is
The small Neo-
the blue-and-
white-striped Classical Charlotten-
Humboldt Room, hof Palace is located
also called the Tent in the southern
Room due to its
resemblance to a
extension of Park
JÄGERTOR tent. The palace is Sanssouci, Park
surrounded by a Charlottenhof.
 Gilded figures
(inset) eating, 9"
drinking and Orangerie
making music
⌂ Maulbeerallee
surround the
(Nordischer Garten) @ 695
Chinese House
# Apr: 10am–5:30pm Sat,
Sun & hols; May–Oct: 10am–
furniture was lacquered,
5:30pm Tue–Sun ∑ spsg.de
an internal garden planted drinks were served in Chinese
with a multicoloured porcelain and Chinese pavil- Towering above the park is
carpet of shrubs. A closer ions were built in gardens. the Orangerie, designed in the
look will reveal that many The Chinesisches Haus Italian Renaissance style and
of these colourful plants was built in Park Sanssouci crowned by a colonnade. The
are actually vegetables. between 1754 and 1756 to Orangerie was built to house
a design by Johann Gottfried guests, not plants. It was
Büring. It is circular in shape, constructed between 1851
with a centrally located and 1860 by Friedrich August
8" main hall surrounded by Stüler on the initiative and
Chinesisches Haus three studies. Between direction of Friedrich Wilhelm
each of these are pretty IV. The final design was partly
⌂ Ökonomieweg
trompe l’oeil porticoes. based on the plans of Ludwig
(Rehgarten) @ 606,
Ornaments, together with Persius. It served as a guest
695 v 91, 94 # May–
gilded figures of Chinese residence for the king’s sister
Oct: 10am–5:30pm
gentlemen and ladies, and her husband, Tsar
Tue–Sun ∑ spsg.de
surround the pavilion. Nicholas I. The rooms were
The lustrous, gilded pavilion Originally the Chinesisches grouped around the Raphael
that can be seen glistening Haus served as a tearoom Hall, which was based on the
from a distance is the Chinese and a summer dining room. Sala Regia in the Vatican and
House. Chinese art was Today, it houses a collec- decorated with copies of the
popular during the Rococo tion of porcelain and has works of Italian artist Raphael.
period – people wore Chinese beautiful interior decora- It is worth climbing up to the
silk, rooms were wallpa- tion featuring gilding and observation terrace for the
pered with Chinese designs, ceiling paintings. view over Potsdam.

257
 w"=
Historische Mühle
⌂ Maulbeerallee 5
@ 695 # Apr–Oct: 10am–
6pm daily; Nov & Jan–Mar:
10am–4pm Sat & Sun
¢ Dec ∑ historische-
EXPERIENCE Potsdam

muehle-potsdam.de

A mill has been located here

since the early 18th century,
although this is actually a
reconstruction, dating from
1993. According to local
legend, the original windmill
was so noisy that Frederick
the Great ordered it to be
dismantled. However, a court
upheld the miller’s cause
and the mill stayed. In 1790
a new windmill was built in
its place, which lasted until
The Bildergalerie, the first gallery built to 1945. The mill currently
house a ruler’s art collection in Germany houses a museum of
mechanical windmills.

0" q
Bildergalerie Friedenskirche Did You Know?
⌂ Zur Historischen Mühle ⌂ Am Grünen Gitter @ 695 Friedenskirche’s mosaic
§ 0331 969 42 00 @ 695 v 91, 94 # Nov–Mar: 11am– was rescued from a
# May–Oct: 10am–5:30pm 4pm ∑ spsg.de Venetian church and
Tue–Sun brought to Potsdam by
Close to Schloss Sanssouci
Friedrich Wilhelm IV.
The Picture Gallery, housed (p254) is Friedenskirche, or the
in the building adjacent to Church of Peace. The found-
Schloss Sanssouci was the ation stone was laid by King
first purpose-built gallery in Friedrich Wilhelm IV in 1845
Germany. It was constructed and the church was com-
in 1764 to a design by pleted in 1848. Designed by
J G Büring. The façade facing Ludwig Persius, Friedrich
the garden is ornamented August Stüler and Ludwig
with an allegorical tableau Hesse, the church is based
representing Art, Education on San Clemente in Rome.
and Crafts, while busts of Inside, the vaulted ceiling
renowned artists have been of the apse is covered by a
placed in the windows. 12th-century mosaic that
The gallery contains an depicts the figure of Christ as
exhibition of Baroque a judge. This Byzantine mosaic
paintings once owned by was originally located in the
Frederick the Great, although church of San Capriano on the
part of the collection can be island of Murano in Venice.
found in the Gemäldegalerie Next to the church is a
(p158). Highlights include mausoleum containing the
Caravaggio’s Doubting Thomas tombs of Friedrich Wilhelm I,
and Guido Reni’s Death of Friedrich Wilhelm IV and
Cleopatra’, as well as a number Kaiser Friedrich III.
of canvases by Rubens and Surrounding Friedenskirche
van Dyck. The stunning is the Marlygarten, created
interior has a floor inlaid with in the mid-19th century. The
yellow marble complementing garden was also designed by
the gilded ceiling. royal architect Ludwig Persius.

258
 August Stüler. The interior dec- Neuer Garten (p267), a park
e oration and the ecclesiastical northeast of the centre of
Nikolaikirche furnishings of the church date Potsdam. This small palace
back to the 1850s, and in the is a beautiful example of
⌂ Am Alten Markt @ 604,
main area of the church they early Neo-Classical archi-
605, 609, 610, 695 v 91, 92,
were based on the earlier tecture and owes its name
93, 94, 96, 99, X98 # 10am–
interior designs by Schinkel. to its façade, which is clad
7pm Mon–Sat, 11:30am–7pm
In front of the church is an in Silesian marble.
Sun ∑ nikolai-potsdam.de
obelisk built between 1753 and The square main body of
This imposing church, built in 1755 to a design by Prussian the palace was the initiative
a late Neo-Classical style, is architect Georg Wenzeslaus of King Friedrich Wilhelm II.
the most beautiful church in von Knobelsdorff. It was deco- The original building was
Potsdam. It was designed in rated by medallions with the completed in 1791, but it
1830 by Karl Friedrich Schinkel portraits of Prussian rulers, but turned out to be too small,
(p28) and the building work was during restorations carried out and in 1797 it was extended.
overseen by Ludwig Persius. after World War II, they were An extra floor and two wings
The main body of the church replaced with portraits of were added, which gave the
is based on a square cross, renowned Prussian architects. Marmorpalais the character
with a semicircular presbytery. of a Palladian villa.
It was decided only in the The main part of the
1840s to crown the church with palace contains Neo-Classical
a vast dome, supported on a r" furnishings from the late
colonnaded tambour (a wall Marmorpalais 18th century, including fur-
that supports a dome). Schinkel niture from the workshops
⌂ Am Ufer des Heiligen
had envisaged this from the of Roentgen and porcelain
Sees (Neuer Garten) @ 692,
beginning, but it was not part from the English firm
695 # Nov–Mar: 10am–
of the king’s orders. It was first Wedgwood. The interiors of
4pm Sat, Sun & hols; Apr:
thought that the dome would the wings date from slightly
10am–5:30pm Sat, Sun &
be supported by a wooden later, from the 1840s. The
hols; May–Oct: 10am–
structure, though ultimately it concert hall in the right-hand
7:30pm Tue–Sun ∑ spsg.de
was built using iron, between wing is particularly beautiful.
1843 and 1848, according to a The Marble Palace is situated King Friedrich Wilhelm II
design by Persius and Friedrich on the edge of the lake in died in this palace in 1797.

The Italianate campanile, or bell

tower, visible from the tranquil
cloister of Friedenskirche

259
Schloss Cecilienhoff, scene of the Potsdam Conference
 t"-= THE POTSDAM CONFERENCE OF 1945
Schloss Cecilienhof On 17 July 1945 the heads of government of Great
⌂ Am Neuen Garten Britain, the United States and the Soviet Union met
§ 0331 969 42 00 @ 692 in Schloss Cecilienhof to confirm the decisions made
# Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm earlier that year at Yalta. The aim of both conferences
Tue–Sun; Nov & Dec: 10am– was to resolve the problems arising at the end of World
5pm Tue–Sun; Jan–Mar: War II. They decided to abolish the Nazi Party, to limit
EXPERIENCE Potsdam

10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun the size of the German military and monitor it indef­
initely, and also to punish war criminals and establish
Completed in 1917, the reparations. The conference played a major part in
Cecilienhof Palace was the establishing a political balance of power in Europe.
last palace built by the House
of Hohenzollern that ruled Churchill
the Kingdom of Prussia and Stalin
the German Empire until the Truman
end of World War I. Designed
by Paul Schultze-Naumburg
in the style of an English
country manor, the palace is a
sprawling, asymmetrical build-
ing with wooden beams that
make a pretty herringbone
pattern on its exterior walls.
Schloss Cecilienhof
remained the Hohenzollern
family residence after they
y
The palace is a
lost the crown; the family
Holländisches Viertel sprawling, asym­
remained in Potsdam until
February 1945 when it played metrical building
⌂ Friedrich-Ebert-/
a brief but important role
Kurfürsten-/Hebbel-/
with wooden beams
in European history: it was
Gutenbergstrasse @ 604, making a pretty
here that the 1945 Potsdam
Conference took place. Today,
609, 692 v 91, 92, 94, 96 herringbone pattern
it functions as a first-class Just as amazing as the Russian on its exterior walls.
hotel and restaurant, where district of Alexandrowka
visitors can relax amid care- (p266) is Potsdam’s charming
fully tended shrubbery. Dutch Quarter. The area is which draw tourists and
Most of the historic home to numerous indepen- day trippers visiting
furnishings used dent shops and boutiques, from Berlin.
during the famous galleries, cafés and beer The area was first
Potsdam conference cellars, especially along the established when Dutch
are on display. central Mittelstrasse, all of workers, invited by Friedrich
Wilhelm I, arrived in Potsdam
at the beginning of the
18th century. Between 1733
Architectural influence from and 1742 a settlement was
the Netherlands seen in the built for them, comprising
Dutch Quarter 134 gabled houses arranged
in four groups, according to
plans by Johann Boumann the
Elder. They were built from
small red bricks and finished
with stone and plaster
details. These houses
are typically three-storey,
with picturesque roofs
and gables.
 café is a decent spot for a
drink and a snack; book ahead
if you want breakfast.

i
Peter und Paul Kirche
⌂ Bassinplatz § 0331 230
79 90 @ 604, 609, 612
v 91, 92, 94, 96 # Mon–Sat;
opening times vary, call
ahead for details

This 19th-century church

was the first large Catholic
church built in Potsdam, at
the initiative of Friedrich
Wilhelm IV. The work of
Wilhelm Salzenberg, it was
built in 1870, in the shape
of a Neo-Romanesque cross.
Its slender tower is a copy of
the campanile of San Zeno
Maggiore in Verona, Italy.
Inside are three beautiful
paintings by French painter
Antoine Pesne.

o
Französische Kirche
⌂ Bassinplatz § 0331 29 12
19 @ 604, 609, 612 v 93,
94, 99 # Late Mar–Oct:
The graceful tower of the church of
1:30–5pm daily
St Peter and St Paul
The French Church, which is
reminiscent of the Pantheon
in Rome, was built especially
u"'- for the Huguenots in 1752.
Biosphäre Following their expulsion

EAT ⌂ Georg-Hermann-Allee
99 @ 604, 609, 638, 697
from France, they were given
the option of settling in
Prussia in 1685. Those who
Restaurant Juliette v 96 # 9am–6pm Mon–Fri,
settled in Potsdam initially
Francophile spot 10am–7pm Sat, Sun & hols
benefited from the hospitality
Juliette is one of ∑ biosphaere-potsdam.de
of other churches, then
Potsdam’s most popular This large glass-and-steel eventually the Französische
dining spots thanks to heated greenhouse was Kirche was built for them.
its interesting range of built to create a tropical It was designed by Johann
dishes (from couscous rainforest environment that Boumann the Elder in the
to steak and foie gras) is now home to 20,000 shape of an ellipse. The front
and great wine list. different exotic plants and elevation is supported by a
⌂ Jägerstrasse 39 animals (including a butterfly grand columned portico. The
# noon–3:30pm & house), waterfalls and more. side niches, which are the
6–10pm Wed–Sun Follow the various jungle entrances of the church, are
∑ restaurant-juliette.de pathways across mangrove decorated with the allegorical
¡¡¡ swamps and up to the tree figures of Faith and Knowledge.
canopy, while learning The interior dates from the
about the various flora and 1830s and is based on designs
fauna. The tropically themed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel.

263
EXPERIENCE Potsdam

The Marstall, a
former stables and
now a film museum

museum documents the

p'- a"-= history and work of the
Neuer Landtag Marstall Babelsberg studios,
(Filmmuseum) Germany’s earliest film
⌂ Alter Markt 1 # Opening
studios. Exhibits include old
times vary, see website for ⌂ Breite Strasse 1A @ 605,
projectors, cameras and other
details ∑ landtag. 695 v 91, 92, 96, 98
equipment as well as props
brandenburg.de # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
used in some of the most
∑ filmmuseum-potsdam.de
Although this building now famous German films.
houses the parliament of the This Baroque pavilion, once
federal state of Brandenburg, used as a royal stables, is the
its elaborate façade is a only remaining building of a
replica of the Potsdam Royal former royal residence. It was s"'
Palace that once stood here. first established in 1714 by Telegrafenberg
Originally built in 1662, over refashioning an orangery built
⌂ Albert-Einstein-Strasse
time the palace was greatly by Johann Nering in 1685. In
 Potsdam Hauptbahnhof
enlarged and modernized to 1746 it was extended and
become a massive two-storey refashioned once more. The buildings on the
building with three wings, an It suffered extensive damage Telegrafenberg hill are
elegant courtyard and a superb in World War II and in 1977, considered to be some of
gateway crowned by a tower. after major restoration, it the best 20th-century
A bombing raid in 1945 left was converted into a film structures in the
the palace in ruins and it was museum. As well as mounting world and attract
finally demolished in 1960. temporary exhibitions, the many admirers of
At the start of the 21st
century, it was decided
to construct a replica of the GERMAN CINEMA
former palace façade, along German cinema gained international
with a modern interior. The prominence with the rise of Expressionism.
works were finished in 2013 The UFA film studios in Babelsberg became
and the building now houses the heart of the film industry and rivalled
the Brandenburg parliament. Hollywood as a centre for innovation. Many
Visitors are free to enter the famous films were produced here, including
inner courtyard through the Expressionist masterpiece The Cabinet of
the entrance gate, the Dr Caligari (1920) by Robert Wiene, Nosferatu
Fortuna Portal, as well as the (1922) by Friedrich Murnau and Fritz Lang’s
entrance hall, with its famous futuristic Metropolis (1927). After Hitler came to
Knobelsdorff staircase. There power, many directors and actors left Germany.
is also a roof terrace, a
canteen and exhibition space.

264
 plaster. The building is
open from May to October

DRINK Did You Know?

for guided tours only,
which must be prebooked
(call 0331 749 94 69). Wasserwerk Sanssouci's
Gleis 6 dome does not serve any
An atmospheric bistro useful purpose, although
with a decent cocktail there is a huge chimney
menu of Caipirinhas and d"\-= in the minaret.
Mojitos, and a simple Filmpark Babelsberg
food menu of soups,
⌂ August-Bebel Strasse 26–
salads and sandwiches
53 (enter at Grossbeeren
into the night. Good
starting point for a
Strasse)  Griebnitzsee f"
@ 601, 619, 690 # Opening
night out. Located just Wasserwerk
times vary, see website for
inside the Babelsberg Sanssouci
details ¢ Nov–Feb
S-Bahn station, it’s a
∑ filmpark-babelsberg.de ⌂ Breite Strasse 28 § 0331
good starting point for a
969 42 25 @ 605, 606 v 91,
walk around the area. This amazing theme park was
94, X98 # May–Oct: 10am–
⌂ Karl-Liebknecht- established on the site of the
5:30pm Sat, Sun & hols
Strasse 4m § 0331 74 film studios where Germany’s
82 429 first films were produced in Designed by Ludwig Persius
1912. From 1917 the studio in 1842, the remarkable
belonged to Universum Film mosque of Sanssouci
AG (UFA), which produced Waterworks was not built to
modern architecture. The hill some of the most renowned serve the needs of an
received its current name in films of the silent era, such as Islamic community,
1832, when an optical tele­ Metropolis. Nazi propaganda but to hide the
graph station linking Berlin films were also made here. special steam pump
and Koblenz was built here. In The studio is still opera­ that serviced the
the late 19th century, various tional today, although part of fountains in Park
educational institutes were the complex is open to visitors. Sanssouci (p250).
located here, including the There are plenty of sets from Inside you can
Institute of Astrophysics, for old films to explore, as well see the preserved
which the complex of buildings as behind­the­scenes pro­ steam­powered
in yellow brick was built. fessionals who demonstrate machinery made
The meandering avenues their skills to visitors – from by the Borsig
lead to a picturesque clearing set­building and makeup to company.
where the small Einsteinturm handling animal stars. Older
(Einstein’s Tower) breaks children can enjoy an
through the surrounding explosive stunt show, 4D
trees. Specially designed to cinema, an interactive XD
observe the solar system, the gaming arena and a spooky
tower was intended to provide “submarine of horror”; for
information that would younger children there are
support Einstein’s Theory of gentler rides and activities,
Relativity. It was built in 1920 many featuring much­loved
by Erich Mendelsohn and is German children’s characters.
regarded as one of the finest
architectural examples of
German Expressionism. Its
fantastical appearance was
intended to show what could
be achieved with reinforced
concrete. However, due to cost,
everything above the first
storey is brickwork covered in

The Wasserwerk Sanssouci,

with its decorative dome and
Moorish brickwork
 interrogation centre used
g" by both the Nazi and East
Altes Rathaus German regimes.
⌂ Am Alten Markt 9 § 0331
289 68 68 @ 603, 605, 609,
631, 638, 639, 695 v 91, 92, h"'-
93, 96, 98, 99 # 10am–5pm
Alexandrowka
Tue, Wed & Fri, 10am–7pm
EXPERIENCE Potsdam

Thu, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun ⌂ Russische Kolonie Allee/

Puschkinallee @ 604, 609,
The Old Town Hall is an
692, 697 v 92, 96 # Times
elegant, colonnaded building,
vary, check website
constructed in 1753 on the
∑ alexandrowka.de
eastern side of Alter Markt. Dacha-style wooden
The uppermost storey, which A trip to Alexandrowka takes house in former Russian
features an ornamental attic the visitor into the world of estate of Alexandrowka
roof, is decorated with the Pushkin’s stories. Wooden
crest of Potsdam and alle­ houses decorated with carved
gorical sculptures. A glass motifs and set in their own Russian prisoners of war who
passageway links the building gardens create a very pretty had fought with Napoleon.
to a neighbouring mid­18th­ residential estate. Although In 1815, when the Prussians
century building housing they appear to be traditional and the Russians joined
the Potsdam Museum. The Russian houses, they were forces, the choir was retained
museum’s rich collection constructed in 1826 under the by Friedrich Wilhelm III.
of artifacts tells the story of direction of a German military Peter Joseph Lenné was
Potsdam’s development. A architect for the singers of a responsible for the overall
nearby branch of the museum, Russian choir. The choir was appearance of the estate, and
Memorial Lindenstrasse set up in 1812 to entertain the it was named Alexandrowka
54/55, is a former prison and troops and was recruited from after a Prussian Princess. It is
based on the shape of the Peter Joseph Lenné was responsible for
cross of St Andrew inscribed
within an oval. In all, 12 houses
the overall appearance of the estate,
were built here, as well as and it was named Alexandrowka after
an outhouse that now has a a Prussian Princess.
small museum on the choir.
Some of the dwellings are
still owned by the descen­ on permanent display were vineyards, is the New Garden,
dants of the choir. To the built from a collection of French a park laid out between 1787
north of this estate stands Impressionist landscape paint­ and 1791. It was landscaped
the Russian Orthodox church ings donated by the museum’s originally by Johann August
of Alexander Nevski. founder, philanthropist Hasso Eyserbeck following the
Plattner. On display are 100 instructions of Friedrich
Impressionist and Modern Wilhelm II, while the current
paintings, with more than layout was created by Peter
j"'\= 30 by Monet. These works Joseph Lenné in 1816.
Museum Barberini form Europe’s largest collec­ It is a Romantic park
tion of 19th­ and 20th­century ornamented with numerous
⌂ Humboldtstrasse 5–6
French paintings outside Paris. pavilions and sculptures. The
 Potsdam Hauptbahnhof
charming Marmorpalais stands
@ 603, 605, 606, 609, 614,
beside the lake, while the
631, 638, 650 v 91, 92, 93,
northern section contains
96, 98, 99 # 10am–7pm k the early 20th­century Schloss
Wed–Mon ∑ museum-
Neuer Garten Cecilienhof (p262). Elsewhere
barberini.com
you can see the red and
⌂ Am Neuen Garten @ 692
This museum is located inside green gardeners’ houses, the
a stunning replica of Frederick Running along the edge of pyramid­shaped ice­house
the Great’s 18th­century Heiliger See lake, on what and a Neo­Gothic library
Barberini Palace. The exhibits was once the site of palace pavilion completed in 1794.

A belvedere, or viewing
platform, giving views
over the Neuer Garten
A train crossing the Oberbaumbrücke

NEED TO KNOW
Before You Go ............................................. 270

Getting Around ............................................272

Practical Information ................................276

 BEFORE
YOU GO
NEED TO KNOW Before You Go

Things change, so plan ahead to make the most of your trip. Be prepared
for all eventualities by considering the following points before you travel.

AT A GLANCE Passports and Visas

For entry requirements, including visas, consult
CURRENCY
Euro (EUR)
your nearest German embassy or check the
German Federal Foreign Office website. EU
€ nationals and citizens of the UK, US, Canada,
Australia and New Zealand do not need visas
for stays of up to three months.
German Federal Foreign Office
AVERAGE DAILY SPEND ∑ auswaertiges-amt.de

Government Advice

SAVE SPEND SPLURGE

Now more than ever, it is important to consult
€60 €125 €200+ both your and the German government’s advice
before travelling. The UK Foreign and Common­
wealth Office, the US State Department, the
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and
Trade and the German Federal Foreign Office
offer the latest information on security, health
BOTTLED COFFEE BEER DINNER
WATER FOR TWO and local regulations.
€1.30 €2.50 €3.50 €65 Australian Department of Foreign Affairs
and Trade
∑ smartraveller.gov.au
German Federal Foreign Office
ESSENTIAL PHRASES
∑ auswaertiges-amt.de
Hello Guten Tag UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office
∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
US State Department
Goodbye Auf Wiedersehen
∑ travel.state.gov

Please Bitte Customs Information

Thank you Danke You can find information on the laws relating to
goods and currency taken in or out of Germany
Do you speak Sprechen Sie from the Zoll (Federal Customs Service) website.
English? Englisch? Zoll
I don’t ∑ zoll.de
Ich verstehe nicht
understand
Insurance
ELECTRICITY We recommend taking out a comprehensive
SUPPLY insurance policy covering theft, loss of
Power sockets belongings, medical care, cancellations and
are type F, fitting delays, and read the small print carefully.
two-pronged plugs. EU citizens are eligible for free emergency
Standard voltage is medical care in Germany provided they have
230 volts. a valid EHIC (European Health Insurance Card).

270
EHIC Allgemeiner Blinden-und
∑ ec.europa.eu Sehbehindertenverein
∑ absv.de
Vaccinations German Red Cross
∑ drk-berlin.de/reservierung.html
No inoculations are needed for Germany.
Language
Booking Accommodation
German is the official language, but Berlin is an
Berlin offers a huge variety of accommodation international city, and English is almost as prev-
to suit any budget, ranging from luxury five-star alent as German. You can easily get by without
hotels to family run B&Bs and budget hostels. a word of German, but it’s appreciated if you can
Lodgings can fill up during the busy summer handle a few niceties in the local language.
months, and prices are often inflated during
peak season, so it’s worth booking in advance. Opening Hours
A comprehensive list of accommodation to
suit all needs can be found on Visit Berlin, the
city’s official tourism website (p277).
COVID-19 The pandemic continues
Money to affect Berlin. Some museums, tourist
attractions and hospitality venues are
Major credit, debit and prepaid currency cards operating on reduced or temporary
are accepted in most shops and establishments. opening hours, and require visitors to
Contactless payments have become the norm make advance bookings for a specific
since the COVID-19 pandemic, though it is still date and time. Always check ahead
not used on public transport. It is always worth before visiting.
carrying cash, as some smaller businesses don't
accept card.
Tipping is not expected in Berlin, but it Monday Many museums and some major
is customary to add a tip of 5–10 per cent in tourist attractions are closed for the day.
restaurants if service is particularly good. Sunday Most shops and some small businesses
close early or for the entire day.
Travellers with Specific Public holidays Schools, post offices and banks
Requirements are closed for the entire day; shops, museums
and attractions either close early or are
Berlin’s wide streets and open spaces make it a closed for the entire day.
wheelchair-friendly city. Pavements are sloped
at junctions and most public buildings are fitted
with lifts and ramps. Wheelchairs can be hired PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
from the German Red Cross (DRK). 1 Jan New Year’s Day
Not all S- and U-Bahn stations are equipped
with lifts. If you are in the U-Bahn, wait at the Apr/Mar Good Friday
head of the platform and the driver will put up Apr/Mar Easter Monday
a ramp. In the S-Bahn, speak to the station
1 May Labour Day
manager to have a ramp set up. BVG maps show
all of the accessible stations. Buses with a wheel- End May Ascension Day
chair symbol have a ramp. Download the free
May/Jun Whit Monday
accessBerlin app (p276) for details of the most
accessible routes around the city. 3 Oct Day of German Unity
Berlin’s charitable association for the
25 Dec Christmas Day
blind and sight-impaired, the Allgemeiner
Blinden-und Sehbehindertenverein, offers 26 Dec St Stephen’s Day
practical advice and useful information.

271
 GETTING
AROUND
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around

Once divided between East and West, Berlin is now connected by an

excellent public transport system that crisscrosses the city and beyond.

AT A GLANCE
Arriving by Air
Berlin’s two international airports, Tegel (TXL)
PUBLIC TRANSPORT COSTS and Schönefeld (SXF), were replaced in October
Tickets are valid on all forms of public
2020 by a new regional hub, the long-awaited
transport in Berlin.
Berlin-Brandenburg (BER). Situated some
SINGLE 18 km (11 miles) south east of the city, Berlin-
Brandenburg is extremely well connected and
€3.80 receives regular flights from Europe, North
America and Asia. Schönefeld now operates
(zones A–B) as Brandenburg’s fifth terminal.
The fastest way to and from the airport is the
DAY TICKET S-Bahn commuter train RE7 or RB14, or the FEX
Airport Express, direct to Berlin Hauptbahnhof
€8.80 in 30 minutes. Regular buses link the airport to
the U-Bahn network.
(zones A–B) Berlin-Brandenburg (BER)
∑ berlin-airport.de

7-DAY TICKET International Train Travel

€36 International high-speed trains connect Berlin to
other European cities. Reservations are essential.
(zones A–B) You can buy tickets and passes for multiple
international train journeys from Eurail or
Interrail. You may need to pay an additional
reservation fee depending on which service
you travel with. Always check that your pass
SPEED LIMIT
is valid on the service you wish to travel with
REGIONAL before boarding.
MOTORWAY ROADS
Eurostar runs a regular service from London
to Brussels via the Channel Tunnel, where you

130 100
can change for Berlin. Deutsche Bahn also runs
a regular high-speed service to and from many
km/h km/h other European destinations.
(80 miles/h) (60 miles/h) Students and those under the age of 26 can
benefit from discounted rail travel both to and
within the country. For more information on
RURAL URBAN
ROADS AREAS discounted tickets and passes, visit the Eurail
or Interrail website.
Deutsche Bahn

70
km/h
50
km/h
∑ bahn.de
Eurail
(40 miles/h)
∑ eurail.com
(30 miles/h)
Eurostar
∑ eurostar.com
Interrail
∑ interrail.eu

272
 GETTING TO AND FROM BERLIN BRANDENBURG

Transport to city centre Journey time Price

Airport Express (FEX) 25 mins €3.80
RE7 30 mins €3.80
RB14 30 mins €3.80
S-Bahn (S9/S45) 50 mins €3.80
Taxi 40 mins €60

Long-Distance Bus Travel available for each combination of zones and are
valid on all forms of public transport, including
Eurolines offers a variety of coach routes to regional and local trains, S-Bahn, U-Bahn and
Berlin from other European cities. Fares start ferries, for two hours, with unlimited changes.
from £19, with additional discounts for students, Ticket machines at train stations and on
children and seniors. Other services include board trams accept cash only. Newer trains also
FlixBus, Student Agency Bus and Ecolines. accept debit cards (German only). Exact change
Berlin’s central bus station, the Zentraler is required on buses. Tickets are validated in the
Omnibusbahnhof (ZOB), is the city’s largest red or yellow time-stamping machine. If caught
long-distance bus station with connections to without a valid ticket you may face a €60 fine.
other towns and cities all over Germany and Travel is only valid in one direction, so a
throughout the rest of Europe. Check online for second ticket is required for the return journey.
the latest timetables and ticket prices. Short-trip (kurzstrecke) tickets are cheaper, but
Ecolines can only be used for three stops on trains and
∑ ecolines.net six stops on buses and trams. Daily (tageskarte)
Eurolines and seven-day tickets (7-tageskarte), costing
∑ eurolines.eu €8.80 and €36 respectively for zones A–B, are
FlixBus better value if you are making multiple journeys.
∑ flixbus.de Seven-day tickets also allow you to travel with
Student Agency Bus one extra adult or up to three children for free
∑ studentagencybus.com after 8pm, on weekends, and on public holidays.
Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof (ZOB) Discounted tickets are available with some
∑ zob.berlin tourist cards that combine public transport
with museum entry (p277).
Public Transport
Regional and Local Train Travel
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) is Berlin’s Germany’s railways are operated by Deutsche
main public transport authority and service Bahn (DB). The Regional Bahn and Regional
provider. Safety and hygiene measures, time- Express (RB and RE) trains service the wider
tables, ticket information, transport maps and Berlin-Brandenburg region and beyond. Use
more can be found online. this service for day trips to Potsdam and other
Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) smaller towns near Berlin.
∑ bvg.de Tickets can be bought from automatic
machines on station platforms or from ticket
Tickets offices. Special offers include a five-person
Berlin is divided into three zones: A, B and C. ticket that is valid for one day. Berlin’s universal
Zone A covers the city centre, Zone B covers the ticketing system means that tickets for RB and
outskirts of town and Zone C includes Berlin’s RE services are also valid on the S-Bahn and
suburban areas, Potsdam and its environs, as U-Bahn, as well as on other public transport
well as Berlin-Brandenburg airport. Tickets are services in Berlin.

273
 U-Bahn Public Ferries
Don’t let the name confuse you; Berlin’s Visitors to Berlin may be surprised to discover
“underground” trains also run on elevated tracks that Berlin has miles of tranquil waterways.
above ground. There are ten U-Bahn lines in In fact, an extensive system of canals and lakes
total, each connecting with S-Bahn and other links Berlin’s city centre with neighbouring
U-Bahn lines at various points across the city. Potsdam, Spandau, Charlottenburg and the area
The service usually closes down between of Müggelsee, making boating in the city not
12:30am and 4am. On weekends all lines are only a fun way to see the sights, but also a viable
open 24 hours except the U4 and U55. way to get around.
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around

U-Bahn stations are marked by a rectangular Six ferry lines operate in Berlin as part of the
blue sign, featuring a large, white letter U. integrated public transport system. Marked by a
letter F, they provide cross-river connections in
S-Bahn locations to the east where there are no bridges.
The S-Bahn is faster than the U-Bahn, and its The F10 provides a particularly charming trip
stations are further apart from one another. from Wannsee (near Potsdam) to the beautiful
Berlin has 16 S-Bahn lines in total, running well lakeside village of Alt-Kladow.
beyond the confines of the city. Trains run every
10 or 20 minutes, or more frequently during Taxis
peak travel times.
S-Bahn stations are marked by a round, Official Berlin taxis are cream, have a “Taxi” sign
green sign, featuring a large, white letter S. on the roof and have a meter on the driver’s
dashboard. Taxi apps such as Uber and Lyft
Buses operate in Berlin. Also popular is BerlKönig, an
Several bus services operate in Berlin, and on-demand ride sharing service.
conveniently they all use the same ticket tariffs. Taxis can be hailed on the street, picked up
Regular buses are marked by three-digit at an official taxi rank (würfelfunk), or booked in
route codes and operate every 20 minutes advance online or over the phone from firms
between 5am and midnight. Important routes such as Taxi Funk Berlin or Würfelfunk.
are serviced by Metro buses (marked by a letter If you are travelling 2 km (1 mile) or less, ask
“M” before the route number), operating 24 for a short trip (kurzstrecke) for €5 – this can only
hours a day, and running every 10 to 20 minutes, be done in taxis you have hailed from the street.
while express buses (marked by a letter “X”) run BerlKönig
every 5 to 20 minutes. ∑ berlkoenig.de
The night bus service operates every half an Taxi Funk Berlin
hour from midnight until 4am when the U-Bahn ∑ funk-taxi-berlin.de
service resumes. Regular tickets are not valid on Würfelfunk
this service. Night bus tickets can be bought ∑ wuerfelfunk.de
directly from the driver (cash only).
All bus routes have a detailed timetable on Driving
display at each stop, and inner-city bus stops are
equipped with digital screens indicating waiting Driving licences issued by any of the European
times. Consult the BVG website (p273) for specific Union member states are valid throughout the
route information, safety and hygiene measures, EU. If visiting from outside the EU, you may need
or temporary changes to services. to apply for an International Driving Permit.
Check with your local automobile association
Trams before you travel.
Despite only servicing the eastern parts of the
city, trams (strassenbahn) are a popular way Driving to Berlin
to get around for locals and visitors to the city, Berlin is connected to other major European
particularly if you are travelling from Mitte to cities via E-roads, which form the International
any part of Prenzlauer Berg. European Road Network.
Important routes are serviced by Metro trams Germany's regional roads (landesstrassen)
running every 10 or 20 minutes, 24 hours a day. are marked with yellow road signs. Motorways
Some run a reduced service on weekends. Other (autobahnen) are marked with blue road signs.
tram services run every 20 minutes between Some stretches of motorway have variable
5 or 6 am and midnight. speed limits depending on weather and road
Berlin’s integrated transport system allows conditions; others have no enforced speed limit
the use of tram tickets on buses, S- and at all. German drivers therefore tend to zoom
U-Bahn train services, and vice versa. Tickets along at speeds of up to 200 km/h (125 miles/h).
can be purchased at the usual vending points, Berlin is surrounded by a circular motorway
or by using machines (coin only) on board. called the Berliner Ring, which has numerous

274
clearly signposted exits into the city centre. buses, which can carry up to two at the driver’s
Drivers must carry their passport and discretion. For all public transport an additional
insurance documentation with them at all times bicycle (fahrrad) ticket is required.
if driving a foreign-registered vehicle in Germany.
Contact ADAC Auto Assistance in the event Bicycle Hire
of a vehicle breakdown, accident, or if you need Deutsche Bahn operates an excellent public
assistance on the road. bicycle system called LIDL Bike. Bikes can
ADAC Auto Assistance be picked up from train stations and major
∑ adac.de intersections. They can be dropped off at any
of the LIDL Bike stations conveniently dotted
Car Rental throughout the city.
You must be 21 or over and have held a valid To rent a LIDL Bike, you must register by
driver’s licence for at least a year to rent a car providing your credit card details. A one-off
in Germany. By law, drivers aged 21–22 must registration fee of €3 applies. The first 30
purchase a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW). minutes cost €1.50, and you will be charged
Drivers under the age of 25 may incur a young- €1 for every additional half hour.
driver surcharge. You can also hire bikes at many cycling shops
for similar or cheaper rates; one of the most
Driving in Berlin reliable is Fahrradstation. Be aware that drink-
The city is relatively straightforward to navigate drive limits (p277) also apply to cyclists.
by car; road layouts are clear and streets are well Fahrradstation
signposted. Parking is also relatively cheap when ∑ fahrradstation.com
compared to other major European cities. LIDL BIKE
If you are flying to Berlin and staying within ∑ lidl-bike.de
the metro area the most efficient way to travel is
by public transport. There are also park-and-ride Bicycle Safety
facilities on the outskirts of the city, which are a Cyclists should always ride on the right. If you
lot cheaper than inner-city parking. are unsure or unsteady, it is a good idea to
When driving in the city, beware of cyclists practise in one of the many inner-city parks
and trams. Trams take precedence; take care before taking to the city roads. If in doubt,
when turning; and allow cyclists right of way. dismount and walk with your bicycle: many
cyclists prefer to cross busy junctions on foot;
Rules of the Road if you do so, switch to the pedestrian section of
Drive on the right. Unless otherwise signposted, the crossing. Beware of tram tracks; always try
vehicles coming from the right have priority. to cross them at an angle to avoid slipping or
At all times, drivers must carry a valid driver’s getting the bicycle wheels stuck.
licence, registration and insurance documents. For your own safety, do not walk with your
Seatbelts are compulsory in a hired car, lights bike in a bike lane or cycle on pavements, on the
must be used in tunnels and the use of a mobile left side of the road, in pedestrian zones or in
phone while driving is prohibited, with the the dark without lights. The locals usually don’t
exception of a hands-free system. The drink- bother, but wearing a helmet is recommended.
drive limit (p277) is strictly enforced.
All drivers must have third-party insurance Walking
(haftpflichtversicherung) – it is the minimum
insurance requirement in Germany. Also Berlin is one of the largest cities in Europe.
compulsory is an environmental badge for Despite covering such a vast area, visitors will
vehicles driving within environmental green be pleasantly surprised to find that most of the
zones known as Umweltzonen. The majority of major sights are located within a relatively small,
downtown Berlin is classified as an Umweltzone. mostly walkable area.
Certification can be purchased online. Organized walking tours are a popular option
Umweltzonen for those looking to explore the city by foot.
∑ umwelt-plakette.de Sandemans New Europe provide free daily
walking tours of the city’s highlights, taking in
Cycling major sights such as the Holocaust Memorial,
Museumsinsel, Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin
Berlin is generally considered a bike-friendly city, Wall and the Brandeburg Gate. It is encouraged
with many designated cycle lanes and traffic to tip the tour guide once the tour is over. Many
lights at intersections. other tour providers offer tours on specific
Should you get tired of pedalling, bicycles can themes, from LGBT+ history to street art.
be taken on the U-Bahn, S-Bahn and trams, but Sandemans New Europe
they are prohibited on buses, except night ∑ neweuropetours.eu

275
 PRACTICAL
INFORMATION
NEED TO KNOW Practical Information

A little local know-how goes a long way in Berlin. Here you will find all the
essential advice and information you will need during your stay.

AT A GLANCE
Personal Security
Berlin is a relatively safe city, but as in most
EMERGENCY NUMBERS cities, use common sense. Pick-pocketing is
common, particularly on crowded buses and
GENERAL
EMERGENCY POLICE in popular tourist areas. Contact your embassy
if your passport has been stolen, or in the event
of a serious crime or accident.
112 110 Germans, and Berliners in particular, are
generally accepting of all people, regardless of
their race, gender or sexuality. Although long
celebrated as a liberal and tolerant country,
TIME ZONE homosexuality was only officially legalized in
CET/CEST
Germany in 1994. Despite all the freedoms
Central European that the LGBT+ community enjoy in Berlin,
Summer Time (CEST) acceptance is not always a given. If you do at
is observed Mar–Oct. any point feel unsafe, the Safe Space Alliance
pinpoints your nearest place of refuge. The
Maneo emergency hotline run by Mann-O-
Meter supports victims of homophobic
TAP WATER behaviour. Lesbenberatung is a lesbian safe
Unless otherwise space that offers help, advice and counselling
stated, tap water for women, girls and transgender people.
in Germany is safe Lesbenberatung
to drink. ∑ esbenberatung-berlin.de
Maneo
§ (030) 216 33 36
∑ maneo.de
WEBSITES AND APPS Mann-O-Meter
∑ mann-o-meter.de
www.visitberlin.de
Safe Space Alliance
Visit Berlin, the city’s official tourist
∑ safespacealliance.com
information website
accessBerlin Health
A free app detailing the most accessible
routes around the city Berlin is known for its world-class health service.
BVG FahrInfo Plus EU citizens can receive emergency medical
Live departures and travel updates from treatment in Germany free of charge (p271),
the city’s local transport operator BVG but you may have to pay upfront for medical
Berlin Wall Art treatment and reclaim on your insurance later.
This free app reconstructs the Iron For visitors from outside the EU, payment of
Curtain with the last and most complete hospital and other medical expenses is the
photo collection of the Berlin Wall. patient’s responsibility. It is therefore important
to arrange comprehensive medical insurance
before travelling (p270).
For minor ailments and prescriptions go to
a pharmacy (apotheke). Details of the nearest
24-hour service (notdienst) are posted in all

276
pharmacy windows, or can be easily obtained Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi
by checking the Apothekerkammer website.
You may need a doctor’s prescription to Free Wi-Fi hotspots are widely available in
obtain certain pharmaceuticals. The pharmacist Berlin’s city centre. Cafés and restaurants are
can inform you of the closest medical practice. usually happy to permit the use of their Wi-Fi
Apothekerkammer on the condition that you make a purchase.
∑ akberlin.de Visitors travelling to Berlin with EU tariffs will
be able to use their devices abroad without
Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs being affected by data roaming charges; instead
they will be charged the same rates for data,
Germany has a smoking ban in all public places, SMS and voice calls as they would pay at home.
including bars, cafés, restaurants and hotels.
However, many establishments circumvent Post
these laws by naming themselves a Raucher­
kneipe, or smoking pub. German post offices and post boxes are usually
The possession of narcotics is strictly fairly easy to spot with their distinctive yellow
prohibited and could result in prosecution Deutsche Post signs.
and a prison sentence. Stamps (briefmarke) can be bought in post
Unless stated otherwise, it is permitted to offices, newsagents, tobacconists and most
drink alcohol on the streets and in public parks major supermarkets. There are usually self-
and gardens. Germany has a strict limit of 0.05 service stamp machines conveniently placed
per cent BAC (blood alcohol content) for drivers. outside post offices.

ID Taxes and Refunds

There is no requirement for visitors to carry ID, VAT is 19% in Germany. Non-EU residents
but in the event of a routine check you may be are entitled to a tax refund subject to certain
asked to show your passport. If you don’t have it conditions. In order to do this, you must
with you, the police may escort you to wherever request a tax receipt and export papers
your passport is being kept so that you can show (ausfuhrbescheinigung) when you purchase your
it to them. goods. When leaving the country, present these
papers, along with the receipt and your ID,
Local Customs at customs to receive your refund.

Germany has strict laws on hate speech and Discount Cards

symbols linked to Adolf Hitler and Nazism.
Disrespectful behaviour in public places can The Berlin Welcome Card offers free entry to 30
warrant a fine, or even lead to prosecution. major tourist attractions and discounted entry
Be respectful when visiting Berlin’s historical for nearly 200 more. It also includes unlimited
sights and monuments. Pay attention to signage use of public transport during your trip.
indicating when photos aren’t allowed and think With the Berlin Pass, visitors get free entry to
carefully about how you compose your shots. over 60 attractions, tours and museums and the
Visitors have come under serious criticism for option of an integrated travel card.
posting inappropriate photos taken at sites Save up to 30% on the city’s top 10 tourist
of national significance such as the Holocaust attractions and enjoy unlimited free travel on
Denkmal (p77) on social media. public transport with the Berlin City Tour Card
Berlin City Tour Card
Visiting Places of Worship ∑ citytourcard.com
Berlin Pass
Dress respectfully when visiting churches, ∑ berlinpass.com
cathedrals and synagogues: cover your torso Berlin Welcome Card
and upper arms and knees. ∑ berlin-welcomecard.de

277
 INDEX
Page numbers in bold type Asisi Panorama Berlin 77 Bismarck, Otto von 56, 76, 114,
refer to main entries A Year in Berlin 52–3 140, 171
Bode-Museum 31, 94, 100

A B Bode, Wilhelm von 93, 94

Booking Accommodation 271
Index

A Brief History 54–9 Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse 79 Botanischer Garten 45, 248–9

Accommodation see Booking Base-flying 49 Bourne Supremacy,
Accommodation Bauhaus-Archiv 174–5 The (film) 107
Admiralbrücke 188 Bebelplatz 23, 80–81 Boxhagener Platz 149
Admiralspalast 78 Beer 38–9 Brandenburger Tor 23, 78
AEG-Turbinenhalle 236 Before You Go 270–1 Brecht, Bertolt 57, 127, 129
Air Travel 272 Belvedere 216–17, 219 Brecht-Weigel-Gedenkstätte 127
Akademie der Künste 73, 79 Bendlerblock (Gedenkstätte Breitscheidplatz 206–7
Alexanderplatz 103–17, 106–7 Deutscher Widerstand) Britzer Garten 229
getting to know 17 175, 237 Bröhan-Museum 217
short walk 116–7 Berghain 47, 151 Brücke-Museum 30, 246
Alexandrowka 266–7 Bergmannstrasse 192 Bus Travel 273, 274
Alliiertenmuseum 249 Berlin Alexanderplatz
Alte and Neue Schönhauser
Strasse 136–7
(Döblin/film) 106, 107
Berlin Blockade 190, 193 C
Alte Bibliothek 72, 80 Berliner Dom 88–9, 101 Calendar see A Year in Berlin
Alte Nationalgalerie 30, 95, 100 Berliner Ensemble 127, 129 Car rental 275 see also Driving
Alter Jüdischer Friedhof 138, 141 Berlin for Art Lovers 30–1 Cathedrals 277
Altes Museum 95, 101 Berlin for Beer Lovers 38–9 Berliner Dom 88–9, 101
Altes Palais 70, 80 Berlin for Families 34–5 Deutscher Dom 73, 75
Altes Rathaus 266 Berlin for Foodies 36–7 Französischer Dom 73, 75
Alt-Rixdorf 228 Berlin for History Buffs 50–1 St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale 72, 81
Anhalter Bahnhof 184, 186, 187 Berlin for LGBT+ Culture 32–3 see also Churches
Architecture: Berlin for Music Lovers 46–7 Chamisso, Adelbert von 131, 141
AEG-Turbinenhalle 236 Berlin for Outdoor Activites Checkpoint Charlie 191, 194
Berlin’s Incredible 28–9 48–9 Children’s activities:
Daimler Quartier 164 Berlin for Shoppers 40–1 Berlin for Families 34–5
Hansaviertel 175 Berlinische Galerie 31, 190 Deutsches Technikmuseum
Haus der Kulturen der Berlin on a Shoestring 42–3 Berlin 184–5
Welt 172 Berlin Philharmonic 166 Domäne Dahlem 248
Jüdisches Museum Berlin 182 Berlin Pride 32 Filmpark Babelsberg 265
Kant-Dreieck 206 Berlin’s Green Spaces 44–5 Kindercafés 34
Königskolonnaden Berlin’s Incredible Architecture LEGOLAND® Discovery
(Kleistkolonnaden) 240–1 28–9 Centre 27, 35, 163
Le Corbusier Haus 237 Berlin Story Bunker 50, 186 Science Center Spectrum
Ludwig-Erhard-Haus 207 Berlin Wall 186
Onkel-Tom-Siedlung 247 A Brief History 59 Tierpark Zoo 230
Regierungsviertel 174 Asisi Panorama Berlin 77 Zoo Berlin 203
Shell-Haus 169 Checkpoint Charlie 191 Chinesisches Haus 257
Sony Center 163 East Side Gallery 10, 31, Christmas markets 41
Telegrafenberg 264–5 50, 151 Churches 277
see also Historic buildings Gedenkstätte Berliner Country 249
Arkaden 164 Mauer 50, 122–3 Franziskaner Klosterkirche
Around Kurfürstendamm Mauerpark 51, 234 114
197–207 Berlin Your Way 28–51 Französische Kirche 263
getting to know 20 Beyond the Centre 221–67 Friedenskirche 258
short walk 206–7 getting to know 224–5 Friedrichswerdersche
Around Schloss Charlottenburg see also Dahlem; East of the Kirche 81
209–19 Centre; Northwest of the Gethsemanekirche 233
getting to know 21 Centre; Potsdam; Heiliggeistkapelle 110
short walk 218–19 Southwest of the Centre Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis
Around Unter den Linden 63–81 Bikinihaus Mall 27, 202 Kirche 27, 200–201, 207
getting to know 16 Bildergalerie 258 Luisenkirche 216
short walk 80–81 Biosphäre 263 Marienkirche 108–9

278
Churches (cont.)
Nikolaikirche (Alexanderplatz) E Friedrichstrasse 194–5
Friedrich Wilhelm (the Great
25, 29, 112, 116 East Germany sites: Elector) 55, 68, 95, 167, 215
Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse 79 Führerbunker 76
259 Checkpoint Charlie 191, 194 Funkturm 238
Parochialkirche 115 Cold War Black Box 75
Peter und Paul Kirche
263
DDR Museum 25, 50, 110
East Side Gallery 10, 31, 151 G
Sophienkirche 132–3, 141 Fernsehturm 25, 28, 35, 107 Galgenhaus 97
St-Annen-Kirche 249 Gedenkstätte Berliner Galleries see Museums and
St-Matthäus-Kirche Mauer 50, 122–3 galleries
167, 177 Karl-Marx-Allee 143, Gardens see Parks and gardens
Zionskirche 136 146–7 GDR (German Democratic
Opening Times 271 Kulturpark 228 Republic) see East
C/O Berlin 30, 204 Stasi-Museum 79, 231 Germany sites
Cold War Black Box 75 Stasi-Prison (Gedenkstätte Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer
Cold War sites see East Berlin-Hohenschön- 50, 122–3
Germany sites hausen) 231 Gedenkstätte Grosse
Cölln 54, 83, 99 Zionskirche 136 Hamburger Strasse 133, 141
Communs 250–51 East of the Centre 224, 226–35 Gedenkstätte Plötzensee
Computerspielemuseum getting to know 224 236–7
148 East Side Gallery 10, 31, 50, 151 Gemäldegalerie 27, 94,
Crucifixion (Rihenstein) Ehemaliges Regierungsviertel 158–61, 176
109 76 Gendarmenmarkt 75
Currency 271 Electricity 270 Georg-Kolbe-Museum 238
Customs Information 270 Elisabeth Christine, Queen 234 Gerichtslaube 114, 116
Cycle Rental Companies 49 Emergency Numbers 276 German cinema 163, 264, 265
Cycling 48, 275 Engels, Friedrich 25, 69, 110 German Democratic Republic
Ephraim-Palais 25, 99, 113, 116 (GDR) 59; see also East

D Ermeler-Haus 99
Essential Phrases 270
Germany sites
Gethsemanekirche 233
Dahlem 246–9 Europa-Center 202, 207 Getting Around 272–5
Daimler Quartier 164 Ghost stations 123
DDR Museum 25,50, 110
DDR (Deutsche Demokratische F Gipsformerei Berlin 215
Gloria Victis (Mercié) 67
Republik) see East Fasanenstrasse 27, 204–5, 206 Gotischer Dom am Wasser
Germany sites Fernsehturm 25, 28, 35, 107 (Schinkel) 30
Deutscher Dom 73, 75 Ferries 274 Government Advice 270
Deutsches Technikmuseum Filmpark Babelsberg 265 Grabstätte von Heinrich von
Berlin 184–5 Flughafen Tempelhof and Kleist 244
Deutsches Theater 127 Tempelhofer Feld 193 Great Elector, the see Friedrich
Deutsch-Russisches Museum Food and drink 11, 12 Wilhelm (the Great Elector)
(Berlin-Karlshort) 230–31 Berlin for Beer Lovers 38–9 Gropius, Walter 67, 174, 175
Die Brücke 30, 167, 168, 246 Berlin for Foodies 36–7 Grosser Stern 171
Die Liebenden vom Franziskaner Klosterkirche 114 Grunewaldturm 241
Alexanderplatz (film) 107 Französische Kirche 263
Diplomatenviertel 170
Discount Cards 31, 277
Französischer Dom 73, 75
Freie Universität 69, 248 H
Domäne Dahlem 248 Friedenskirche 258 Hackesche Höfe 130–31, 141
Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhöfe vor dem Halleschen Hamburger Bahnhof 124–5, 168
Friedhof 127 Tor 193 Hansa-Tonstudio 187
Double Portrait of the Friedrich I, King (Elector Hansaviertel 175
Mennonite preacher Cornelis Friedrich III) 209, 215, 232 Haus der Kulturen der Welt 172
Claesz Anslo and his wife Friedrich II (Frederick the Great) Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz
Aeltje Gerritsdr Schouten 55, 70, 80, 148, 212 244
(Rembrandt) 158 Friedrichshain 143–51 Haus des Rundfunks 236
Driving 272, 274–5 getting to know 19 Haus Schwarzenberg Museums
Dutch Proverbs (Bruegel the Friedrichstadtpalast 128 134–5
Elder) 158 Friedrichstadtpassagen 74 Healthcare 270, 271, 276–7

279
 Heiliger, Bernhard 246–7
Heiliggeistkapelle 110 I Kollwitz, Käthe 23, 69, 132,
216
Herr Lehmann (Regener) 188 ID 277 Kollwitzplatz 132
Hiking Trails 49 Insurance 270 Komische Oper 73
Historic buildings: Itineraries 22–7 König Gallery (St Agnes) 30, 191
Alexandrowka 266–7
Altes Rathaus 266 J Königskolonnaden
(Kleistkolonnaden) 240–1
Anhalter Bahnhof 184, James-Simon-Galerie 90 Konzerthaus 46, 74
186, 187 Jewish sites: Köpenick 232
Index

Bendlerblock (Gedenkstätte Alter Jüdischer Friedhof 138, Kottbusser Tor 189

Deutscher Widerstand) 141 Kreuzberg 179–95
175, 237 Anne-Frank-Zentrum 134–5 getting to know 20
Brandenburger Tor 23, 78 Gedenkstätte Grosse short walk 194
Brecht-Weigel-Gedenkstätte Hamburger Strasse 133, Kronprinzenpalais 71, 81
127 141 Kulturbrauerei 139
Diplomatenviertel 170 Gedenkstätte Stille Helden Kunstbibliothek 167, 176
Fernsehturm 25, 28, 35, 107 134 Kunstgewerbemuseum 156–7,
Flughafen Tempelhof and Holocaust Denkmal 23, 77 176
Tempelhofer Feld 193 Jüdischer Friedhof 132 Kunsthaus Dahlem 246–7
Funkturm 238 Jüdischer Friedhof Kupferstichkabinett 27, 167,
Galgenhaus 97 Weissensee 132, 235 176
Gerichtslaube 114, 116 Jüdisches Gemeindehaus Kurfürstendamm see Around
Grunewaldturm 241 205 Kurfürstendamm
Hackesche Höfe 130–31, 141 Jüdisches Museum Berlin
Haus des Rundfunks 236
Historische Mühle 258
50, 182–3, 195
Museum Blindenwerkstatt L
Holländisches Viertel 262 Otto Weidt 134–5 Landwehrkanal 171
Jüdisches Gemeindehaus Neue Synagoge and Centrum Langhans, Carl Gotthard 74, 78,
205, 206 Judaicum 130, 140 108, 172, 216
Karl-Marx-Allee 143, 146–7 Scheunenviertel 136, Language 271
Knoblauchhaus 25, 112, 116 140–41 Le Corbusier Haus 237
Marstall 96 Synagoge Rykestrasse Leipziger Platz 27, 165
Münze 115 138–9 Lenné, Peter Joseph 29, 95,
Nicolaihaus 97 Jüdischer Friedhof 132 148, 170, 188, 235
Olympiastadion 239 Jüdischer Friedhof Weissensee and Potsdam 266, 267
Rathaus Schöneberg 241 132, 235 Lessing, Gotthold Ephraim 97,
Reichstag 13, 23, 173 Jüdisches Gemeindehaus 205, 117, 130
Ribbeckhaus 97 206 LGBT+ Safety 276
Rotes Rathaus 111, 117 Jüdisches Museum Berlin 28, Libeskind, Daniel 28, 182
Siegessäule 171, 175 182–3, 195 Liebermann, Max 95, 132,
Staatsratsgebäude 97 Jupiter as a child nourished 245
Stadthaus 117 by the goat Amalthea Local Customs 277
Topographie des Terrors (Poussin) 160 Long Distance Bus Travel 273
190–91, 194 Luisenkirche 216
Wasserturm 139
Wasserwerk Sanssouci 265 K Luise, Queen 215, 216
Lustgarten 95, 101
see also Architecture; KaDeWe 202
Palaces and villas; War
memorials
Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis
Kirche 27, 200–201, 207 M
Historische Mühle 258 Karl-Marx-Allee 143, 146–7 Madonna in Church (Van Eyck)
Historischer Hafen Berlin 99 Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum 27, 176
History see A Brief History 216 Mao (Warhol) 124–5
Hitler, Adolf 58, 76, 186, 239 Kino International 149 Marienkirche 108–9
and assassination plot 237, 241 Klee, Paul 168, 174, 216, 217 Markets see Shops and markets
Holländisches Viertel 262 Kleist, Heinrich von 244 Märkisches Museum 50, 98–9
Holocaust Denkmal 23, 77 Knobelsdorff, Georg Märkisches Ufer 99
Hotels see Booking Wenzeslaus von 71, 72, 193, Marmorpalais 259
Accomodation 212, 252, 254, 256, 262 Marstall 96
House of One 96 and Potsdam 252, 254 Marstall (Filmmuseum) 264
Humboldt Forum 96 Knoblauch, Eduard 112, 130 Martin-Gropius-Bau 186–7, 194
Humboldt Universität 69, 70, 80 Knoblauchhaus 25, 112, 116 Martin Luther (Cranach the
Humboldt, Alexander and Kolbe, Georg 238 Elder) 67
Wilhelm von 68, 69 Kollhof, Hans 29, 107 Marx-Engels Forum 110

280
Marx, Karl 25, 69, 110 Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Mauerpark 51, 234 Hamburger Bahnhof 124–5, Stasi-Museum 79, 231
Mausoleum 215, 219 168 Stasi-Prison (Gedenkstätte
Maxim Gorki Theater 68 Hansa-Tonstudio 187 Berlin-Hohenschön-
Mehringplatz 188, 194–5 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie hausen) 231
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, Felix 191, 194 Urban Nation 168–9
68, 130 Haus Schwarzenberg Urban Spree 13, 151
Mendelssohn, Moses 130, Museums 50, 134–5 Zeughaus (DHM) 67, 81
133, 138 Hemp Museum 117 Zille Museum 25, 112–13
Messegelände 238 Historischer Hafen Berlin 99 Museum Scharf-Gerstenberg
Mobile Phones 277 Huguenot Museum 73 27, 216
Monbijoupark 131, 141 Humboldt Forum 96 Museumsdorf Düppel 244
Money 271; see also Currency James-Simon-Galerie 90 Museumsinsel 11, 83–101
Monuments see Statues and Jüdisches Museum Berlin 28, getting to know 17
monuments 182–3, 195 short walk 100–101
Moritzplatz 188, 191 Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum 27, Musikinstrumenten-Museum
Museum Barberini 267 216 166, 177
Museum Berggruen 27, 217 Knoblauchhaus 25, 112
Museum der Dinge 189
Museum Europäischer Kulturen
König Gallery (St Agnes) 30,
191 N
248 Kunstgewerbemuseum Nazi Regime sites:
Museum für Kommunkation 34, 156–7, 176 Bendlerblock (Gedenkstätte
77 Kunsthaus Dahlem 246–7 Deutscher Widerstand)
Museum für Naturkunde Kupferstichkabinett 27, 175
126–7 167, 176 Deutsch-Russisches Museum
Museums and galleries 30–1, 34 Märkisches Museum 98–9 (Berlin-Karlshorst) 230
Akademie der Künste 73, 79, Marstall (Filmmuseum) 264 Ehemaliges
175 Martin-Gropius-Bau 186–7, Regierungsviertel 76
Alliiertenmuseum 249 194 Führerbunker 76
Alte Nationalgalerie 30, 95, Messegelände 238 Haus der Wannsee-
100 Missing House, The 133 Konferenz 244
Altes Museum 95, 101 Monsterkabinett 134 Topographie des Terrors
Anne-Frank-Zentrum 134–5 Museum Barberini 267 190–91, 194
Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse 79 Museum Berggruen 27, 217 see also War memorials
Bauhaus-Archiv 174–5 Museum Blindenwerkstatt Neptunbrunnen 111
Berlinische Galerie 31, 190 Otto Weidt 134–5 Nering, Johann Arnold 114, 115,
Berlin Story Bunker 50, 186 Museum der Dinge 189 230, 234
Bildergalerie 258 Museum des Böhmischen Neue Kammern 256
Bode-Museum 31, 94, 100 Dorfes 228 Neue Nationalgalerie 168, 176
Bröhan-Museum 217 Museum Europäischer Neuer Garten 267
Brücke-Museum 30, 246 Kulturen 248 Neuer Landtag 264
C/O Berlin 30, 204 Museum für Film und Neuer Pavillon (Schinkel-
Cold War Black Box 75 Fernsehen 163 Pavillon) 214–15, 219
Computerspielemuseum Museum für Kommunikation Neues Museum 86–7, 94, 100
148 34, 77 Neues Palais 252–3
Daimler Contemporary 164 Museum für Naturkunde Neue Synagoge and Centrum
Dali Museum 165 126–7 Judaicum 130, 140
DDR Museum 25, 50, 110 Museum Scharf-Gerstenberg Neue Wache 23, 29, 69, 81
Deutsches Historisches 27, 216 Neukölln 226–7
Museum 67 Museumsdorf Düppel 244 Newton-Sammlung and
Deutsches Technikmuseum Musikinstrumenten-Museum Museum für Fotografie
Berlin 184–5 166, 177 203
Deutsch-Russiches Museum Neue Nationalgalerie 168, Nicolaihaus 97
(Berlin-Karlshort) 230–31 176 Nikolaikirche (Alexanderplatz)
Domäne Dahlem 248 Neues Museum 86–7, 94, 100 25, 29, 112, 116
East Side Gallery 10, 31, 151 Newton-Sammlung and Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) 259
Gedenkstätte Stille Helden Museum für Fotografie Nikolaiviertel 25, 29, 116–17
134 203 North Mitte and Prenzlauer
Gemäldegalerie 27, 94, Pergamonmuseum 90–93, Berg 119–41
158–61, 176 100 getting to know 18
Georg-Kolbe-Museum Prinzessinnenpalais 71 short walk 140–1
238 Sammlung Boros 30, 128–9 Northwest of the Centre 225,
German Spy Museum 27, 165 Science Center Spectrum 186 236–9

281
 O Parks and gardens (cont.)
Botanischer Garten 45,
Römische Bäder 256–7
Rotes Rathaus 111, 117
Oberbaumbrücke 150 248–9 Russische Botschaft 78–9
Olympiastadion 239 Britzer Garten 229
Onkel-Tom-Siedlung 247
Orangerie 257
Flughafen Tempelhof and
Tempelhofer Feld 193 S
Oranienburger Strasse 129 Lustgarten 95, 101 Sammlung Boros 30, 128–9
Mauerpark 51, 234 Savignyplatz 204

P Monbijoupark 130, 141 S-Bahn 274 see also Travel

Index

Neuer Garten 267 Schadow, Johann Gottfried

Palaces and villas: Park Sanssouci 250 78, 95, 97, 115, 127
Altes Palais 70, 80 Plänterwald (Spreepark) Scharoun, Hans 166, 169, 176,
Belvedere 216–17, 219 228 177, 195, 232
Chinesisches Haus 257 Schlosspark 214, 219 Scheunenviertel 136, 140–41
Communs 250–51 Tiergarten 27, 170–71 Schiller, Friedrich 74
Ephraim-Palais 25, 99, 113, Treptower Park 229 Schinkel, Karl Friedrich 28, 68,
116 Viktoriapark 192–3 74, 94, 95, 192
Ermeler-Haus 99 Volkspark Friedrichshain 44, and burial 127
Fasanenstrasse 27, 204–5 148 and palaces 214–15, 216,
Friedrichstadtpalast 128 Park Sanssouci 250 236
Haus der Wannsee- Parochialkirche 115 and Romanticism 30
Konferenz 244 Passports and Visas 270 Schloss Bellevue 172
Kronprinzenpalais 71, 81 Pazzi Madonna (Donatello) 31 Schloss Britz 228
Marmorpalais 259 Pergamonmuseum 90–93, Schlossbrücke 94, 101
Max-Lieberman Villa 245 100 Schloss Cecilienhof 258, 262
Neue Kammern 256 Peter und Paul Kirche 263 Schloss Charlottenburg 27,
Neuer Landtag 264 Philharmonie und 212–13
Neuer Pavillon (Schinkel- Kammermusiksaal 27, 166, Schloss Charlottenhof 256
Pavillon) 214–15, 219 177 Schloss Friedrichsfelde 230
Neues Palais 252–3 Pierre Boulez Saal 71 Schlosspark 214, 219
Orangerie 257 Plänterwald (Spreepark) Schlossplatz 96
Palais am Festungsgraben 228 Schloss Sanssouci 254–5
68–9 Poet Iwar von Lücken, The Schloss Schönhausen 234–5
Palais Schwerin and Münze (Dix) 31 Schlossstrasse Villas 27, 216
115, 117 Portrait of a young man Schloss Tegel 237
Prinzessinnenpalais 71 (Ghirlandaio) 160 Schlüter, Andreas 67, 109, 112,
Römische Bäder 256–7 Post 277 113, 215, 218
Schloss Bellevue 172 Potsdam 250–67 Schöneberg 33
Schloss Britz 228 Potsdamer Platz 27, 28, 162–5 Schwechten, Franz 139, 187,
Schloss Cecilienhof 258, 262 Potsdamer Strasse 27, 169 200
Schloss Charlottenburg 27, Practical Information 276–7 Science Center Spectrum
212–13 Prater 138 186
Schloss Charlottenhof 256 Public Holidays 271 Security 276
Schloss Friedrichsfelde 230 Public Transport 272, 273–4 Shalekhet (Fallen Leaves)
Schloss Köpenick 232 (Kadishman) 182
Schloss Sanssouci 254–5
Schloss Schönhausen 234–5 R Shell-Haus 169
Shops and markets 10
Schlossstrasse Villas 27, 216 Rathaus Schöneberg 241 Berlin for Shoppers 40–1
Schloss Tegel 237 Rauch, Christian Daniel 70, 80, Siegessäule 171, 175
Villa Borsig 236 171, 188, 215, 236 Silvesternacht am
Villa von der Heydt 171 RAW Gelände 47, 149, 150–51 Alexanderplatz (film) 106
Villenkolonie Alsen 245 Reasons to Love Berlin 10–13 Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs
Wrangel-Schlösschen Regierungsviertel 174 277
(Gusthaus Steglitz) 249 Reichstag 13, 23, 173 SO36 47, 189
Palais am Festungsgraben Reinhardt, Max 126, 127, 128, Sommerbad Kreuzberg 188
68–9 129 Sony Center 163
Palais Schwerin and Münze Reiterdenkmal des Grossen Sophie Charlotte, Queen 212
115, 117 Kurfürsten 215, 218 Sophienkirche 132–3, 141
Pariser Platz 79 Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs des Sophienstrasse 135
Parks and gardens 13, 34, 43, Grossen 70, 80 Southwest of the Centre 225,
44–5 Restaurants see Food and drink 240–5
beer gardens 38, 39 Ribbeckhaus 97 getting to know 225
Biosphaere 263 Riehmers Hofgarten 193 Sowjetisches Ehrenmal 172

282
Spandau 239 Synagoge Rykestrasse Unter den Linden 23, 72, 81
Spartacus League 135, 171 138–9 Urban Nation 168–9
Speed Limits 272 see also Synagogues 277
Driving
Staatsbibliothek 68, 80, 169,
Neue Synagoge and Centrum
Judaicum 130, 140 V
177 Synagoge Rykestrasse Viktoriapark 192–3
Staatsoper Unter den Linden 138–9 Villa Borsig 236
71, 81 Villas see Palaces and villas
Staatsratsgebäude 97
Stadtmauer 115 T Villa von der Heydt 171
Villenkolonie Alsen 245
St-Annen-Kirche 249 Tauentzienstrasse 203 Virgin and Child Enthroned with
Stasi-Museum 79, 231 Taxes and Refunds 277 Saints (Crivelli) 158
Stasi-Prison (Gedenkstätte Taxis 274 Visas see Passports and Visas
Berlin-Hohenschönhausen) Telegrafenberg 264–5 Volk Ding Zero (Baselitz) 125
231 Theater des Westens 204, Volksbühne 127
Statues and monuments: 207 Volkspark Friedrichshain 44,
Engels, Friedrich 25, 69, 110 Theatre Complex 164–5 148
Gedenkstätte Grosse Third Reich 58; see also Nazi
Hamburger Strasse 133
Grosser Stern 171
Regime sites
Tickets 273 W
Marx, Karl 25, 69, 110 Tiergarten 153–77, 170–71 War memorials:
Reiterdenkmal des Grossen getting to know 19 Gedenkstätte Plötzensee
Kurfürsten 215, 218 short walk 176–7 236–7
Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs Time Zones 276 Holocaust Denkmal 23, 77
des Grossen 70, 80 Tipping 271 Neue Wache 23, 29, 69, 81
Schiller, Friedrich 74 Topographie des Terrors Walking 275
Schlossbrücke 94, 101 190–91, 194 Wasserturm 139
Siegessäule 171, 175 Torstrasse 135 Wasserwerk Sanssouci 265
Soviet War Memorial 229 Train Travel 272–3 Websites and Apps 276
Sowjetisches Ehrenmal 172 Tram Travel 274 Wedding 236
St George Slaying the Dragon Travel 272–5 Weidt, Otto 134
116 Air 272 –3 Weigel, Helene 127, 129
Wilhelm I, Kaiser 241 Bus 274 Wi-Fi 277
St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale 72, 81 Cycling 275 Wilhelm I, Kaiser 56, 70, 215,
St-Matthäus-Kirche 167, 177 Driving 274–5 241
Steinplatz 205 Ferry 274 Wilhelm II, Kaiser 57
Strandbad Wannsee 48, 240 Public Transport 273–4 Worker uprising 147
Street art 13, 31, 134, 151 Safety Advice 270 Wrangel-Schlösschen
short walks: S-Bahn 274 (Gusthaus Steglitz) 249
Around the Kulturforum Taxis 274 Wurzach Altar (Multscher) 161
176–7 Trains 272–3
Around the Schloss 218
Around Bebelplatz 80–81
Trams 274
U-Bahn 274 Z
Breitscheidplatz and Walking 275 Zeiss-Gross-planetarium
Ku’damm 206–7 Travellers with Specific 233
Mehringplatz and Requirements 271 Zeughaus (DHM) 67, 81
Friedrichstrasse 194–5 Treptower Park 229 Zille, Heinrich 99, 112–13
Museumsinsel 100–101 Zille Museum 25, 112–13
Nikolaiviertel 25, 29, 116–17
Scheunenviertel 140–41 U Zionskirche 136
Zoos 35
Stüler, Friedrich August 86, 95, U-Bahn 274 see also Travel Tierpark Zoo 230
167, 257, 258 UFA (Universal Film AG) 163, 264 Zoo Berlin 203, 207

283
 PHRASE BOOK
IN AN EMERGENCY MAKING A TELEPHONE CALL
Where is the Wo ist das voh ist duss I would like Ich möchte ish mer-shtuh
telephone? telefon? tele-fon? to make a telefonieren tel-e-fon-eer’n
Help! Hilfe! hilf-uh phone call
Please call a Bitte rufen Sie bitt-uh roof’n zee I’ll try again Ich versuche es ish fair-zookh-uh
doctor einen Arzt ine-en artst later später noch einmal es shpay-ter nokh
Please call the Bitte rufen Sie bitt-uh roof’n zee ine-mull
police die Polizei dee poli-tsy Can I leave a Kann ich eine kan ish ine-uh
message? Nachricht nakh-risht
Please call the Bitte rufen Sie bitt-uh roof’n zee
hinterlassen? hint-er-lahss-en
fire brigade die Feuerwehr dee foyer-vayr
answer phone Anrufbeantworter an-roof-be-ahnt-
Stop! Halt! hult
vort-er
COMMUNICATION ESSENTIALS telephone card Telefonkarte tel-e-fohn-kart-uh
receiver Hörer hur-er
Yes Ja yah
mobile Handy han-dee
No Nein nine engaged (busy) besetzt b’zetst
Please Bitte bitt-uh wrong number Falsche falsh-uh
Thank you Danke dunk-uh Verbindung fair-bin-doong
Excuse me Verzeihung fair-tsy-hoong
Hello (good day) Guten Tag goot-en tahk SIGHTSEEING
Goodbye Auf Wiedersehen owf-veed-er- library Bibliothek bib-leo-tek
zay-ern entrance ticket Eintrittskarte ine-tritz-kart-uh
Good evening Guten Abend goot’n ahb’nt cemetery Friedhof freed-hofe
Good night Gute Nacht goot-uh nukht train station Bahnhof barn-hofe
Until tomorrow Bis morgen biss morg’n gallery Galerie gall-er-ree
See you Tschüss chooss information Auskunft owss-koonft
What is that? Was ist das? voss ist duss church Kirche keersh-uh
Why? Warum? var-room garden Garten gart’n
Where? Wo? voh palace/castle Palast/Schloss pallast/shloss
When? Wann? vunn place (square) Platz plats
today heute hoyt-uh bus stop Haltestelle hal-te-shtel-uh
tomorrow morgen morg’n national holiday Nationalfeiertag nats-yon-ahl-fire-
tahk
month Monat mohn-aht
theatre Theater tay-aht-er
night Nacht nukht
free admission Eintritt frei ine-tritt fry
afternoon Nachmittag nahkh-mit-tahk
morning Morgen morg’n SHOPPING
year Jahr yar
Do you have/ Gibt es…? geept ess
there dort dort
Is there…?
here hier hear
How much Was kostet das? voss kost’t duss?
week Woche vokh-uh
does it cost?
yesterday gestern gest’n
When do you Wann vunn
evening Abend ahb’nt open/ öffnen Sie? off’n zee
close? schliessen Sie? shlees’n zee
USEFUL PHRASES
this das duss
How are you? Wie geht’s? vee gayts expensive teuer toy-er
(informal) cheap preiswert price-vurt
Fine, thanks Danke, es geht dunk-uh, es gayt size Grösse gruhs-uh
mir gut meer goot number Nummer noom-er
Until later Bis später biss shpay-ter colour Farbe farb-uh
Where is/are? Wo ist/sind…? voh ist/sind brown braun brown
How far is it to…? Wie weit ist es…? vee vite ist ess black schwarz shvarts
Do you speak Sprechen Sie shpresh’n zee red rot roht
English? Englisch? eng-glish blue blau blau
I don’t Ich verstehe nicht ish fair-shtay-uh green grün groon
understand nisht yellow gelb gelp
Could you speak Könnten Sie kurnt-en zee TYPES OF SHOP
more slowly? langsamer lung-zam-er
antique shop Antiquariat antik-var-yat
sprechen? shpresh’n
chemist Apotheke appo-tay-kuh
USEFUL WORDS (pharmacy)
bank Bank bunk
large gross grohss
market Markt markt
small klein kline
travel agency Reisebüro rye-zer-boo-roe
hot heiss hyce
department store Warenhaus vahr’n-hows
cold kalt kult chemist’s/ Drogerie droog-er-ree
good gut goot drugstore
bad böse/schlecht burss-uh/shlesht hairdresser Friseur freezz-er
open geöffnet g’urff-nett newspaper kiosk Zeitungskiosk tsytoongs-kee-osk
closed geschlossen g’shloss’n bookshop Buchhandlung bookh-hant-loong
left links links bakery Bäckerei beck-er-eye
right rechts reshts post office Post posst
straight ahead geradeaus g’rah-der-owss shop/store Geschäft/Laden gush-eft/lard’n

284
film processing Fotogeschäft fo-to-gush-eft Branntwein brant-vine spirits
shop Bratkartoffeln brat-kar-toff’ln fried potatoes
self-service Selbstbedienungs- selpst-bed-ee- Bratwurst brat-voorst fried sausage
shop laden nungs-lard’n Brot brot bread
shoe shop Schuhladen shoo-lard’n Brötchen bret-tchen bread roll
clothes shop Kleiderladen/ klyder-lard’n Brühe bruh-uh broth
Boutique boo-teek-uh Butter boot-ter butter
food shop Lebensmittel- lay-bens-mittel- Champignon shum-pin-yong mushroom
geschäft gush-eft Currywurst kha-ree-voorst sausage with
glass, porcelain Glas, Porzellan glars, curry sauce
port-sell-ahn Dill dill dill
Ei eye egg
STAYING IN A HOTEL Eis ice ice/ice cream
Do you have Haben Sie noch harb’n zee nokh Ente ent-uh duck
any vacancies? Zimmer frei? tsimm-er-fry Erdbeeren ayrt-beer’n strawberries
with twin beds? mit zwei Betten? mitt tsvy bett’n Fisch fish fish
with a mit einem mitt ine’m Forelle for-ell-uh trout
double bed? Doppelbett? dopp’l-bet Frikadelle Frika-dayl-uh rissole/
with a bath? mit Bad? mitt bart hamburger
with a shower? mit Dusche? mitt doosh-uh Gans ganns goose
I have a Ich habe eine ish harb-uh ine-uh Garnele gar-nayl-uh prawn/shrimp
reservation Reservierung rez-er-veer-oong gebraten g’braat’n fried
key Schlüssel shlooss’l gegrillt g’grilt grilled
porter Pförtner pfert-ner gekocht g’kokht boiled
geräuchert g’rowk-ert smoked
EATING OUT Geflügel g’floog’l poultry
Gemüse g’mooz-uh vegetables
Do you have a Haben Sie einen harb’n zee
Grütze grurt-ser groats, gruel
table for…? Tisch für…? tish foor
Gulasch goo-lush goulash
I would like to Ich möchte eine ish mer-shtuh ine-
Gurke goork-uh gherkin
reserve a table Reservierung uh rezer-veer-
Hammelbraten hamm’l-braat’n roast mutton
machen oong makh’n
Hähnchen haynsh’n chicken
I’m a vegetarian Ich bin Vegetarier ish bin vegg-er-tah-
Hering hair-ing herring
ree-er
Himbeeren him-beer’n raspberries
Waiter! Herr Ober! hair oh-bare!
Honig hoe-nikh honey
The bill (check), Die Rechnung, dee resh-noong
Kaffee kaf-fay coffee
please bitte bitt-uh
Kalbfleisch kalp-flysh veal
breakfast Frühstück froo-shtock
Kaninchen ka-neensh’n rabbit
lunch Mittagessen mit-targ-ess’n
Karpfen karpf’n carp
dinner Abendessen arb’nt-ess’n
Kartoffelpüree kar-toff’l-poor-ay mashed potatoes
bottle Flasche flush-uh
Käse kayz-uh cheese
dish of the day Tagesgericht tahg-es-gur-isht
Kaviar kar-vee-ar caviar
main dish Hauptgericht howpt-gur-isht
Knoblauch k’nob-lowkh garlic
dessert Nachtisch nahkh-tish
Knödel k’nerd’l noodle
cup Tasse tass-uh
Kohl koal cabbage
wine list Weinkarte vine-kart-uh
Kopfsalat kopf-zal-aat lettuce
tankard Krug khroog
Krebs krayps crab
glass Glas glars
Kuchen kookh’n cake
spoon Löffel lerff’l
Lachs lahkhs salmon
teaspoon Teelöffel tay-lerff’l Leber lay-ber liver
tip Trinkgeld trink-gelt mariniert mari-neert marinated
knife Messer mess-er Marmelade marmer-lard-uh marmalade, jam
starter Vorspeise for-shpize-uh Meerrettich may-re-tish horseradish
(appetizer) Milch milsh milk
the bill Rechnung resh-noong Mineralwasser minn-er-arl-vuss-er mineral water
plate Teller tell-er Möhre mer-uh carrot
fork Gabel gahb’l Nuss nooss nut
Öl erl oil
MENU DECODER
Olive o-leev-uh olive
Aal arl eel Petersilie payt-er-zee-li-uh parsley
Apfel upf’l apple Pfeffer pfeff-er pepper
Apfelschorle upf’l-shoorl-uh apple juice with Pfirsich pfir-zish peach
sparkling Pflaumen pflow-men plum
mineral water Pommes frites pomm-fritt chips/ French
Apfelsine upf’l-seen-uh orange fries
Aprikose upri-kawz-uh apricot Quark kvark soft cheese
Artischocke arti-shokh-uh- artichoke Radieschen ra-deesh’n radish
Aubergine or-ber-jeen-uh aubergine Rinderbraten rind-er-brat’n joint of beef
(eggplant) Rinderroulade rind-er-roo-lard-uh beef olive
Banane bar-narn-uh banana Rindfleisch rint-flysh beef
Beefsteak beef-stayk steak Rippchen rip-sh’n cured pork rib
Bier beer beer Rotkohl roht-koal red cabbage
Bockwurst bokh-voorst a type of sausage Rüben rhoob’n turnip
Bohnensuppe burn-en-zoop-uh bean soup Rührei rhoo-er-eye scrambled eggs

285
 Saft zuft juice 16 sechzehn zex-tsayn
Salat zal-aat salad 17 siebzehn zeep-tsayn
Salz zults salt 18 achtzehn uhkht-tsayn
Salzkartoffeln zults-kar-toff’l boiled potatoes 19 neunzehn noyn-tsayn
Sauerkirschen zow-er-keersh’n cherries 20 zwanzig tsvunn-tsig
Sauerkraut zow-er-krowt sauerkraut 21 einundzwanzig ine-oont-
Sekt zekt sparkling wine tsvunn-tsig
Senf zenf mustard 30 dreissig dry-sig
scharf sharf spicy 40 vierzig feer-sig
Schaschlik shash-lik kebab 50 fünfzig foonf-tsig
Schlagsahne shlahgg-zarn-uh whipped cream 60 sechzig zex-tsig
Schnittlauch shnit-lowhkh chives 70 siebzig zeep-tsig
Schnitzel shnitz’l veal or pork 80 achtzig uhkht-tsig
cutlet 90 neunzig noyn-tsig
Schweinefleisch shvine-flysh pork 100 hundert hoond’t
Spargel shparg’l asparagus 1,000 tausend towz’nt
Spiegelei shpeeg’l-eye fried egg 1,000,000 eine Million ine-uh mill-yon
Spinat shpin-art spinach
Tee tay tea TIME
Tomate tom-art-uh tomato one minute eine Minute ine-uh min-oot-uh
Wassermelone vuss-er-me-lohn-uh watermelon one hour eine Stunde ine-uh shtoond-uh
Wein vine wine half an hour eine halbe Stunde ine-uh hullb-uh
Weintrauben vine-trowb’n grapes shtoond-uh
Wiener Würstchen veen-er voorst-sh’n frankfurter Monday Montag mohn-targ
Zander tsan-der pike-perch Tuesday Dienstag deens-targ
Zitrone tsi-trohn-uh lemon Wednesday Mittwoch mitt-vokh
Zucker tsook-er sugar Thursday Donnerstag donn-ers-targ
Zwieback tsvee-bak rusk Friday Freitag fry-targ
Zwiebel tsveeb’l onion Saturday Samstag/ zums-targ
Sonnabend zonn-ah-bent
NUMBERS Sunday Sonntag zon-targ
0 null nool January Januar yan-ooar
1 eins eye’ns February Februar fay-brooar
2 zwei tsvy March März mairts
3 drei dry April April april
4 vier feer May Mai my
5 fünf foonf June Juni yoo-ni
6 sechs zex July Juli yoo-lee
7 sieben zeeb’n August August ow-goost
8 acht uhkht September September zep-tem-ber
9 neun noyn October Oktober ok-toh-ber
10 zehn tsayn November November no-vem-ber
11 elf elf December Dezember day-tsem-ber
12 zwölf tserlf spring Frühling froo-ling
13 dreizehn dry-tsayn summer Sommer zomm-er
14 vierzehn feer-tsayn autumn (fall) Herbst hairpst
15 fünfzehn foonf-tsayn winter Winter vint-er

286
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Depositphotos Inc: chrissi 225cb; claudiodivizia 247crb;
Elnur 29cla; Konrad Kerker 21, 208-9; S Kohl 212br;
philipus 217t; terroa 135br; whatslove 262b.
DK would like to thank the following for their contribution
to the previous edition: Małgorzata Omilanowska, Zoe Ross Dorling Kindersley: Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowicz
127tr, 130bc, 215br.
The publisher would like to thank the following for their
kind permission to reproduce their photographs: Dreamstime.com: 12ee12 175br; 22tomtom 108bl;
Andersastphoto 73br; Andreykr 239tr; Andrey Andronov
Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; 253crb; Anticiclo 111tl; Michal Bednarek 75t; Blitzkoenig
r-right; t-top 265br; Vladimir Bondarenco 12clb; Boris Breytman 109tr,
251tr; Andrea Calistri 17tl, 82-3; Carolannefreeling 110b;
123RF.com: Mesut Dogan 172bl; Shanti Hesse 13cr; Claudiodivizia 22bl, 86cr, 125tl; Creativeimpression 170cb;
iloveotto 10-1b, 31tr, 150-1t; Anton Ivanov 260-1; Dedi57 256bl; Delstudio 146cra; Demerzel21 81cra, 133br;
lauradibias 19t, 142-3; marina99 220-1; Jaroslav Moravcik Draghicich 232b; Eddygaleotti 76-7t, 123ca; Eldadcarin
195tl; Karl-Heinz Spremberg 12-3b, 240-1b; Lothar 234tl; Elenaburn 117tl; Elenasfotos 263tl, 266tr; Erix2005
Steine 44tl; Anibal Trejo 132-3t; T.W. van Urk 202t; 53c; Alexandre Fagundes De Fagundes 86cra, 212cla;
vvoennyy 173tl; Velislava Yovcheva 257cra. Eugene Feygin 248-9t; Alessandro Flore 89br; Franz1212
191br; Gekaskr 16, 62-3; Guadapad 45cla; Hanohiki 172tr;
4Corners: Luca Da Ros 19bl, 152-3. Ixuskmitl 106cl; Jdm512 28-9b; Marek Jelínek 230t;
Antonios Karvelas 219br; Katatonia82 167tr, 214t; Sergey
akg-images: Album / Prisma / Antonin Mercie Gloria Kelin 50-51b; Vassiliy Kochetkov 229t; Patryk Kosmider
Victis (1874) 67cra, Brazalete de bronce. Siglo III d. 86crb. 218cla; Oleksandr Kovalenko 26cr; Ivan Kravtsov 253clb;
Anna Krivitskaia 86bc; Laudibi 256tr; Madrabothair 174t;
Alamy Stock Photo: 500px 60-1; A Media Press 86clb; Markwaters 139tr, 148tr, 241tr; Vasilii Maslak 114tr;
zAF Archive 107crb, 264br; Agencja Fotograficzna Meinzahn 18, 24cr, 118-9, 266-7b; Merlindo 68br; Mijeshots
Caro 58-9t, / Andreas Teich 32bl, / Muhs 97br, 228br; 69t; Minnystock 6-7b, 107tl, 170-1b; Jaroslav Moravcik 89cr,
Artexplorer 158br; Berlin-Zeitgeist 182cla; Walter 93tr, 187b; Yurii Moroz 76bc; Moskwa 258tl; Oanap24
Bibikow 122; Bildagentur-online / Schoening 193bl, 147cla; Sean Pavone 234-5t; Plotnikov 257t, 258-9b;
264t; bilwissedition Ltd. & Co. KG 245br; Eden Breitz 40b, Radiokafka 224c; Rphstock 225tl; Rumifaz 70bl; Jozef
41tl, 47tl, 53br, 184cra, 237t; Bridgeman Images 58tl; Sedmak 109br; 200cra; Snake81 255tl; Stefan Baum 204bl;
Chronicle 57bc; colaimages 106cb; Collection Christophel Tomas1111 94t, 112tl; Tupungato 78tl, 134-5t; T.w. Van Urk
107clb; Peter Delius 227tr; Digital-Fotofusion Gallery 101tl; Noppasin Wongchum 100b; Xantana 140bl;
37cl; dpa picture alliance 32br, 32-3t, 45tr, 46tl, 58br, Yorgy67 212clb; Velislava Yovcheva 255cra; Yuryz 236bl.
147tr, / Britta Pedersen 47cl, / Bernd Settnik 253bl; Eva
Agata Draze 33cl; Adam Eastland 34-5b, 156-7b, 159, Festival of Lights: Frank Hermann 89tr.
161t, 182-3b, 226cra, 226-7b, 244-5tc, / © 2018 The Andy
Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Licensed by Gedenkstätte Berlin-Hohenschönhausen: Thomas
DACS, London 2018 Andy Warhol Chairman Mao 124-5b; Weber 231b.
EyeEm / Oliver Byunggyu Woo 36-7t; Alexandre
Fagundes 250t; Falkensteinfoto 55tr; Faraway Photos Georg Kolbe Museum; Berlin: Enric Duch 238t.
52bl, frantic 12t; Stephane Gautier 106cla; Scott Goodno
109tl; hanohikirf 184br; Andrew Hasson 189tl; hemis.fr / Getty Images: age fotostock / Reiner Elsen 149cra; Alinari
Eric Planchard 26bl, René Mattes 158clb; Juergen Archives 55bc; Jon Arnold 8-9b; Adam Berry 26crb; Estate
Henkelmann 244bl; Historical image collection by of Emil Bieber / Klaus Niermann 56tl; Peter Bischoff 107cb;
Bildagentur-online 54t; Peter Horree 56bc, 92bl, 125cra, Bloomberg / Jochen Eckel 37crb; Corbis Documentary /
164-5t; 59bl; 183tl, / Helmut Baar 228tl; INTERFOTO 56cr, Ruggero Vanni 31cla; DEA / Biblioteca Ambrosiana 57bl;
/ Karl Johaentges 169t; Masterpics 30tl, 160br; Iain Eye Ubiquitous 55br; Sean Gallup 42bl, 43b, 67bl; Benjamin
Masterton 38-9t, 166b, 183tr, 185, 192t, 248cra, / Karl Matthijs Lichtwerk 252tr; The LIFE Picture Collection / Hugo
Schmidt-Rottluff © DACS 2018 30-1b, / Bernhard Jaeger 58cla; Moment Open / Federica Gentile 146-7b;
Heiliger © DACS 2018 Tor der Kugel at Kunsthaus Popperfoto / James Jarche 58cr; ullstein bild 55cra, 56br,
Dahlem 246t; imageBROKER / Siegfried Grassegger 57tr, 106clb, / Heilke Heller 123bc, / Koch 254bl;
35br; Ingo Jezierski 230cla; Juergen Henkelmann Universal History Archive 54bc.
Photography 90cb; Gunter Kirsch 53bl; mauritius images
GmbH / Torsten Elger 115br; MISCELLANEOUSTOCK iStockphoto.com: _ultraforma_ 51cl; Antonistock 24clb;
96-7t; Niday Picture Library 54br; PAINTING 158cb; benedek 51tr; Lutz Berlemont-Bernard 242-3; bluejayphoto
Pictorial Press Ltd 262cra; Prisma Archivo 90cra; Ricardo 163bl; Giflishtih 138-9b; golero 13t; holgs 33bc, 200bl, 201;
Ribas 213; TravelCollection / Inga Wandinger 216bl; hsvrs 48bl; kavunchik 72t; Jonny Kristoffersson 40tl; jotily
travelpix 149tr; travelstock44.de / Juergen Held 20tl, 268-69; lechatnoir 11br, 41br; lesart777 116bl; lubilub 8cl;
38-9b, 52br, 178-9, 188b; United Archives GmbH 55tl; lucamato 194bl; MarioGuti 41cl, 164bl; Maxlevoyou
UtCon Collection 160tl; Lucas Vallecillos 28-9t, 48-9t; 192br; mije_shots 17cb, 102; mikkelwilliam 59br; Mlenny
Scott Wilson 35cla; Julie g Woodhouse 29crb, 67cla, 13br; Nikada 22t, 22cr, 59tr, 78-9b, 130-1t, 163tr; Leonardo
158cra, 177br; World History Archive 56-7, 58bc. Patrizi 43cla; pixelprof 141tl; querbeet 44-5b, 99bl;
RomanBabakin 35t; SeanPavonePhoto 8bl;
AWL Images: Sabine Lubenow 2-3, 4. suteishi 136; Terroa 39cla; typo-graphics 49crb; VFKA
22crb; Ziutograf 90cl.
Berliner Ensemble: Lovis Ostenrick 129br.
Jewish Museum Berlin: Yves Sucksdroff 50tl.
Berliner Fernsehturm: Marco Wendt 24t.
Mary Evans Picture Library: Sueddeutsche Zeitung
BerlinerFestspiele: Camille Blake 47br; Mutesouvenir / Photo 106crb.
Kai Bienert 46b.
Museum der Dinge: Armin Herrmann 189br.
Berlinische Galerie / BG Gebäude: © Foto: Nina
Straßgütl 190cla, 190-1t. Museum fur Kommunikation Berlin: Michael Ehrhart
34tl.
Bridgeman Images: Berlinische Galerie / Otto Dix ©
DACS 2018 The Poet Iwar von Lücken (1926) 31br. Museum fur Naturkunde: Carola Radk 126b.
C/O Berlin: 205t Nola’s am Weinberg: 137t.
Daimler Art Collection; Stuttgart/Berlin: V.l. Marius Courtesy Peres Projects; Berlin: Matthias Kolb 148b.
Glauer, Monika Brandmeier, Ulrich Erben, José Heerkens,
Ding Yi, You Honglei Last Night’s Fortune Teller - Daimler Pierre Boulez Salle: Volker Kreidler 70-1.
Contemporary, Berlin 2018. / Hans-Georg Gaul 42-3t.
Robert Harding Picture Library: Stefan Huwiler 74br;
DDR Museum: 24br. Yadid Levy 10cla; Travel Collection 20cb, 196-7.

287
 Salt n Bone: 39crb.
Sammlung Boros: Installationsansicht mit Arbeiten von
Michel Majerus / © NOSHE 128-9t.
Science Center Spectrum Stiftung Deutsches
Technikmuseum Berlin: Clemens Kirchner 186tr. This edition updated by
SO36- Sub Opus 36 e.V.: © Prokura Nepp 11clb. Contributor Paul Sullivan
Senior Editor Alison McGill
Staatliche Museen Zu Berlin: Kunstgewerbemuseum /
Achim Kleuker 176bl; David von Becker 87. Senior Designer Vinita Venugopal
© Stadtmuseum Berlin: David von Becker 11t, 90-1, Project Editors Parnika Bagla, Danielle Watt
92cr, 93b; Achim Kleuker 157cra, 157tl; Foto Setzpfandt Editors Avanika, Chhavi Nagpal, Kanika
113b; Christina Sieber 98t. Praharaj, Anuroop Sanwalia
Stasimuseum/ASTAK e.V.: John Steer 231tr. Picture Research Coordinator
SuperStock: DeAgostini / Adolph Menzel The Artist’s
Sumita Khatwani
bedroom in the Ritterstrasse (Das Schlafzimmer Des Assistant Picture Research Administrator
Kunstlers (1847) 95tc. Vagisha Pushp
Tim Raue Restaurant; Berlin: Wolfgang Stahr 36bl. Jacket Coordinator Bella Talbot
Urban Nation Museum for Urban Contemporary Art: Jacket Designer Laura O’Brien
Sabine Dobre 168bl. Senior Cartographic Editor
Urban Spree Galerie: 150bl. Mohammad Hassan
Cartography Manager Suresh Kumar
Zeiss Grossplanetarium © SPB: F.M. Arndt 233t.
DTP Designer Tanveer Abbas Zaidi
Zeughaus (Deutsches Historisches Museum): Senior Production Editor Jason Little
Thomas Bruns 66, 80clb.
Production Controller Kariss Ainsworth
Zoologischer Garten Berlin AG: Frank Roesner 207cra; Managing Editors Shikha Kulkarni,
Zoo Berlin 203bl.
Hollie Teague
Front flap: Depositphotos Inc: Konrad Kerker cb; Deputy Managing Editor Beverly Smart
Getty Images: Sean Gallup cra; ullstein bild / Drescher
bl; iStockphoto.com: Nikada cla; Noppasin br; Managing Art Editors Bess Daly,
SeanPavonePhoto t. Priyanka Thakur
Sheet map cover: Alamy Stock Photo: Sean Pavone Art Director Maxine Pedliham
Cover images: Publishing Director Georgina Dee
Front and Spine: Alamy Stock Photo: Sean Pavone
Back: 123RF.com: lauradibiase c; Alamy Stock Photo:
Sean Pavone b; AWL Images: Sabine Lubenow cla, tr;
For further information see: www.dkimages.com
Illustrators: Andrzej Wielgosz, Lena Maminajszwili,
Dorota Jarymowicz, Pawel Pasternak

First edition 2000

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited,
One Embassy Gardens, 8 Viaduct Gardens, London SW11 7BW
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
1450 Broadway, Suite 801, New York, NY 10018
Copyright © 2000, 2021 Dorling Kindersley Limited
This book was made with A Penguin Random House Company
Forest Stewardship Council ™
certified paper – one small 21 22 23 24 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
step in DK’s commitment to All rights reserved.
a sustainable future.
For more information go to No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or
www.dk.com/our-green-pledge introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form,
or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission
of the copyright owner.
The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
A NOTE FROM DK EYEWITNESS arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third
The rapid rate at which the world is changing is party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address
in this book will be a suitable source of travel information.
constantly keeping the DK Eyewitness team on our
toes. While we’ve worked hard to ensure that this A CIP catalogue record for this book
edition of Berlin is accurate and up-to-date, we know is available from the British Library.
that opening hours alter, standards shift, prices A catalogue record for this book is available
fluctuate, places close and new ones pop up in their from the Library of Congress.
stead. So, if you notice we’ve got something wrong ISSN: 1542 1554
or left something out, we want to hear about it. ISBN: 978 0 2415 0966 1
Please get in touch at [email protected] Printed and bound in China.
www.dk.com

288