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Popular Thumb Test of Leather & Its Effect On Shoe During Manufacturing (LF 707)

This document presents a popular thumb test of leather and its effect on shoe manufacturing. It describes 10 tests to evaluate various qualities of leather, including looseness, roundness, feel, grain crackiness, key tests, color rub fastness, run, flexing endurance, and cello tape tests. These tests examine properties like smoothness, folding strength, cracking, colorfastness, elasticity, and finish adhesion. The results determine if a leather is suitable for shoe uppers during the manufacturing process.

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jami dd
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77 views

Popular Thumb Test of Leather & Its Effect On Shoe During Manufacturing (LF 707)

This document presents a popular thumb test of leather and its effect on shoe manufacturing. It describes 10 tests to evaluate various qualities of leather, including looseness, roundness, feel, grain crackiness, key tests, color rub fastness, run, flexing endurance, and cello tape tests. These tests examine properties like smoothness, folding strength, cracking, colorfastness, elasticity, and finish adhesion. The results determine if a leather is suitable for shoe uppers during the manufacturing process.

Uploaded by

jami dd
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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A PRESENTATION ON

Popular thumb Test of Leather & its effect on


shoe during Manufacturing (LF 707)

PREPARED BY....

1. Kartik Kummer Das 2022-2-69-015


2. Md. Shariful 2022-2-69-048
3. Debashish Hajong 2022-2-69-053
4. Md. Toushes Mahamud 2022-2-69-054
5. Asish Hajong 2022-2-69-056
Looseness of Upper leather
Roundness
The Feel
The Grain Crankiness/ (Four Fold Test)
The Key test
The color Rub fastness
The Run
Flexing Endurance
Cello tape test
* The grain side of the leather
is pressed with a finger,
taking the leather on the
palm of the other hand. If
creases develop due to such
pressing, the leather is
consider as a loose.
* The upper leather to be tested is
hanged in the folded condition with
grain side out between two first
fingers of both the hands from the
opposite end of leather and thus
roundness developed should have a
curvature in between 10mm to
15mm.

*
* Palm is moved on the grain side of
the leather to experience the
smoothness (no harshness) of the
grain . Slight cushion effect of the
grain layer gives better feel to the
tester. Other term TOUCH
comprises of effects like waxy
,dry touch, silky touch and velvety
effect of the grain surface.

*
* The leather is folded through
180 degree twice & then the
development of crack to the
double folded edge is noticed.
Good leather should not
develop any crack either to the
finish layer or to the leather
surface.

*
*
The tip of a pointed round key s hardly
pressed on the flesh side of the leather
with the thumb of the same hand above
the leather on the key tip position and
pulled out outward. If crack develops on
the grain side, the leather is considered
unsuitable for lasting shoe manufacturing.
Such leather will develop crack on sharp
edge of the last during shoe making and
upper may tear. The presence of too much
unreached tanning on surface, case
hardening, absence of lubricant on the
grain surface, quick drying etc are
responsible for such type of faults.
*

The finished side of the leather is


rubbed with a white cloth covered
to the first finger of the right
hand. If the cloth becomes colored
due to such rubbing the dry color
rub fastness of the leather is
considered poor. The cloth is then
wet with water and the same
process is continued. If the wet
cloth becomes colored , the wet
color rub fastness is then
considered poor.
* Leather like glove, garments, chamois,
soft nappa etc should increase in length
when pulled with hands. On release of the
pulling force, the leather should come
back to its original size. This is called the
run of the leather. This is generally
assessed by pulling the leather with both
the hands. A leather of good run is
generally empty and therefore arrests
large amounts of air inside which reduces
its thermal conductivity. Such leathers
behaves like a warm woolen cloth when
used as garment or glove. Shoe upper.
Suede and lining leather should not have
run but should increase in length when
pulled with mechanical force in tensile
strength tester or similar machines.

*
* The leather used at the sides of
portfolio, the vamp portion of the
shoe etc constantly undergo
flexing and therefore may crack.
The cracks are observed first to
the finish film and finally to the
leather surface. Tester bend or
flex the leather very quickly
several time with the grain side
inner most and then observe the
change if any, at the flexed
region. Crankiness, powdering or
pilling of pigment layer, change of
color, formation of fold or crease
are indications of poor flexing
endurance.

*
* This test is carried out to
check the extent of adhesion
of finish to the leather
surface. For this 3 inches of
scotch tape is stick on the
grain side and in one jerk it is
removed. If the finish is
sticking to the tape and found
removed from the leather
surface then the leather is
considered as failed in this
test and will not be used in
upper making

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