TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

FOR

Essential Garment Construction

INTRODUCTION TO FASHION & APPAREL

ITC2201

2000

TC/CHANT/2000
 Clothing Terms and Definitions

A. Terms for garments and parts (P. 1 - P. 8)

B. Technical terms (P. 8 - P. 17)
C. Terms for machines and equipment (P. 17 - P. 20)
D Terms related to production (P. 20 ~ P. 22)
E. Materials and Accessories terms (P. 22 - P. 26)

A. Terms for garments and parts

1. Accordian pleats
Narrow, straight pleats usually parallel to one another.

2. Back-strap
Strap across the back of a garment at the waist, usually fitted with a buckle, or
other method of adjustable fastening, and used to adjust the fit of the garment,
within limits, to the wearer's requirement.

3. Bearers (for trousers)

Sections fastened to the side seams to take the weight of the trousers when the
fronts are opened. Bearers for whole fall trousers contain the pockets. Bilston
bearers similar to whole falls but with deeper bearer.
Pocket bearers are employed for cross pockets.
French bearers are a continuation of the button catch & fly with two or more holes
fastened on to a strap from the side seams.

4. Belt loop
A loop of material or thread, which is sewn into the waist of the garment. The
degree of fit is adjustable by means of a belt drawn through the loops.

5. Bespoke
Bespoke clothes are those which are made to the order of an individual.

6. Bodice
The section of a woman's garment covering the body from neck to waist.

7. Box pleat
A form of enclosed pleats achieved by double folding cloth alternately in opposite
directions.

8. Break
The point where the bridle ends at the centre front of a coat, it is usually at the top
buttonhole.

9. Buggy
A lining from the neck down across the back of anotherwise unlined coat.

10. Button stand

The distance from the finished edge of the garment to the centre of the button.
11. Buttonhole
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 The hole through which a button is passed to hold the garment in the correct
position.

12. Buttonhole stand

The distance from the finished edge of the garment to the eye of the buttonhole.

13. Catch
An underlap of material providing a backing to an opening to take buttons or a zip
tape for fastening, e.g. fly-catch, button-catch.

14. Chest piece

A small piece of hair canvas, felt or both, which is sewn to the interlining in the
chest area, for strength and shape retention.

15. Clem
A very small dart, which is sewn and not cut.

16. Coat
A sleeved outer garment.

17. Collar
Neck band, upright or turned over on a coat, dress, shirt, etc. Band of lining, lace
or material, etc., which completes the upper part of a garment around the neck.

18. Crease resistance

The term used to indicate the capacity of a textile material to resist and/or recover
from creases incidental to use.

19. Crutch (also crotch)

The region between the legs at which inside leg seams are joined, also known as
the fork of trousers.

20. Cuff
The lower part of the sleeve which at the wrist usually has a plain turned in edge.
If turned up it may also be described as a gauntlet cuff.

21. Curtains (trousers)

Pieces of material (usually lining) put across the top of the underside under the
waistband from side seam to seat seam.

22. Dart
A wedge shape removed from the surface area of a garment by stitching or
alternatively by cutting and stitching.

23. Disposable garment

A garment which is intended to be worn only once or a few times and then
discarded.

24. Double breasted (D.B)

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 Coat or other garment with wrap over fronts having buttons and buttonholes on
each forepart.

25. Dress
(a) Clothing, particularly outerwear.
(b) A garment worn by women or children.
(c) To finish cloth.
(d) To take dress from men's trousers is to cut a section from one side to make
it fit as closely as the other.

26. Drip-dry
The term used to imply that a garment after washing should be hung to allow it to
dry without removing excess water either by and or machine. It does not in itself
indicate that ironing is unnecessary.

27. Easy care

A promotional term implying that the garment will require very little ironing to
restore its wrinkle-free and crease-free appearance after appropriate washing.

28. Eye of buttonhole

The rounded end of the buttonhole into which the shank or neck of the button will
pull when the garment is fastened.

29. Facings
An upper of face material covering such as that of a coat lapel, etc.

30. Fall (collar)

The section of the collar between the crease and the leaf edge.

31. Falls (trousers split or whole)

A flap covering the abdomen on certain types of breeches and trousers, such as
those used by naval ratings. Whole or full falls have vents on either side. Split
falls have vents on either side. Split falls as used on riding breeches button
halfway.

32. Fish
A dart cut at the waist of a garment to give a closer fit.

33. Flap
A shaped piece of material, which provides a covering for a pocket mouth, or for
ornamentation.

34. Fly
A cloth covering opening to conceal a fastening (E.G. button, zip). A blind fly is
fastened instead of left open along, the finished edge.
35. Fly catch
See catch.

36. Flyline

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 The line of the fly fastening from the centre of the fork to the top of the waistband
on a pair of trousers.

37. Fork
The point of a pair of trousers at which the legs join.

38. Fork quantity

The allowance of material in bifurcated garments provided for the thickness
through the trunk from front to back at the crutch.

39. Foreparts
The name given to the fronts of a jacket or coat. This section of the garment
extends from the front edge to the side seam horizontally and from the hem to the
shoulder seam vertically.

40. Gore
A wedge-shaped piece of clothe inserted into a garment to obtain width at a
specific place.
Gored skirt; a skirt with a panel inserted.

41. Gorge
The neck runs of the forepart to which the collar is joined.

42. Gorge seam

The seam joining the forepart to the collar.

43. Gusset
A piece of fabric inserted to strengthen or enlarge a garment.

44. Hanger (cloth)

A tab of specially woven binding, or of lining, fixed at the top centre of the coat
back across the collar seam, and used to hang the garment on a peg when a coat
hanger is not available. Cloth tabs are also fixed to the waistbands of skirts, two
being used, for hanging up.

45. Hem
A folded edge produced by turning in the raw edge and securing it.

46. Inlay
An extra seam allowance inside the garment for letting out if required or for
strength at a given position.

47. Jet or jetting

A narrow strip of material, usually cut warpwise, sewn parallel to the pocket
opening and turned over the pocket mouth edge.

48. Jigger
The button on the inside of a double-breasted coat (usually sewn with a long
shank). Also a style of lady's short, loose jacket.
49. Lape1

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 The upper part of the front edge of a jacket or coat, which folds back onto the
forepart. The length of the lapel extends from the gorge seam to the break.

50. Lapel Roll

The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from break seam of the collar to the first
button. The term 'Roll' will apply mostly to a soft finish lapel, not one that is
pressed almost flat on the crease line.

51. Leaf Edge

The outer of fall edge of the collar.

52. Liverpool Pocket See Pocket

53. Made to Measure Made to a measured sized. See also Bespoke.

54. Magyar Sleeve See Sleeve

55. Minimum Care Minimum Iron

Promotional terms with similar implications to Easy Care.

56. Model
The original garment made up from a design. The original sample.

57. Non-Iron
A term used to indicate that a garment will be wrinkle-free and crease-free after
appropriate washing and that ironing will not be necessary.

58. Pattern
A replica of a garment in flat card or paper. A template used for marking out the
parts of a garment on material prior to cutting. Block Pattern. A template of the
basic pattern shape upon which design details can be superimposed.

59. Placket (also Plaquet)

An opening provided in a garment to facilitate removal by the wearer and
incorporating fastenings, e.g. skirt placket, dress placket.

60. Pleat
Material folds introduced to allow for expansion to provide style features.

61. Pocket
A bag inserted into or attached to a garment, for practical or decorative use.
Pockets may have flaps, jettings or welts.

Cross Pocket. A pocket which lies horizontally. In the case of a trouser the pocket
mouth can run from the waistband on the front to a point approximately 10 cm.
down the side seam from the waistband.

Frog Pocket. A trouser pocket opening approximately 12 cm. across the waist
band from the side seam, and about 12 cm. down the side seam from the waist
band seam, which is fastened in the corner with a hole and button and when
opened folds down to form a triangular flap.
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 Hare Pocket. An extra large jetted pocket inserted into the lining of a coat, usually
fastened with buttons.

Jetted Pocket. A pocket mouth on which the edges are finished by the application
of jettings.

Liverpool Pocket. A ticket pocket backed with an inside welt.

Welt. The extended edge of a pocket cut. A folded piece of material attached to
form a finished edge of a pocket opening.

62. P.T.U.
Abbreviation of "Permanent Turn-Up" (e.g. on trouser bottoms). See Turn-Ups.

63. Raglan Sleeve

See Sleeve

64. Scye
The armhole of a coat. Derived from the words "Arm eye".

65. Seam
Line of junction between two or more pieces of fabric.

Plain Seam - A seam formed by a row of stitching joining together two pieces of
material, their face sides together.
For a detailed description of seams, see British Standard 3870 "Schedule of
Stitches, Seams and Stitchings".

66. Seam Allowance

A pre-determined amount of material between the edge of component parts of the
garment and the seam line, usually between 1 and 2 cm. Also called Seam Margin.

67. Seat
Part of trousers covering the buttocks.
Seat Angle - The quantity of material (5 cm. ~ 8 cm.) allowed at the seat on the
underside for ease of movement.

68. Set-In Sleeve

See Sleeve

69. Sham Hole

An imitation buttonhole. A double row of stitching inserted in the fabric to
simulate a buttonhole.

70. Single-Breasted
Style of coat with minimum overlap (left over right former, and vice versa for
women), and a centre front fastening.
71. Skirt
That part of a coat, dress or other garments that hangs below the waist.
A garment worn by women, suspended from the waist or hips.
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72. Slacks
Trousers, normally used for leisure wear for men or women.

73. Sleeve
That part of a garment that covers all or part of the arm.

Magyar sleeve. A sleeve which is cut integrally with the body of the garment, the
two sections being joined from neck wrist over the shoulder, and from side-seam to
wrist. Wedge shaped pieces are inserted under the arm to allow freedom of
movement.

Raglan Sleeve. A sleeve with the armhole line extending from the front and back
scye to the neck point so that the shoulder section is joined to the sleeve crown,
combinating the conventional shoulder and sleeve head seams.

Set-in Sleeve. A sleeve which is set into the scye.

74. Sleeve Crown

The top section of the sleeve head which extends approximately 6 cm. on either
side of the shoulder seam.

75. Sleeve Head

The part of the top sleeve which is joined to the scye.

76. Stand
That part of a collar which joins the neck edge of the garment and terminates at the
crease of the collar where the fall commences.

77. T-Shirt
A simple style of short-sleeved shirt where the sleeves are cut in one with the back
and front of the garment.

78. Topside (Trousers)

The front section of trousers, extending from the trousers bottom to the waistband,
and between the inside and side seams.

79. Trousers
A two-legged garment covering the body from the waist to the ankles. Trousers
may be made up with pleats in the topside and described as "pleated fronts";
otherwise they are known as "plain fronted trousers".

80. Turn-Ups (Trousers)

The bottoms of trouser legs folded and turned back on the outside, with the raw
edges hemmed on the inside.

81. Undersides (Trousers)

The back section of trousers, extending from the trouser buttons to the waistband,
and between the inside and side seams.

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 82. Vent
A short opening or cut into the hem of a coat, jacket, skirt or shirt.

83. Vest
An undergarment covering the top part of the body, in the tailoring trade used as
an alternative for waistcoat.

84. Waistband
A narrow piece of material or binding attached to the top of trousers and skirts to
achieve style and fit.
Grown on Waistband. A waistband in one piece with a trouser or skirt.

85. Waistcoat
A garment normally sleeveless, made to be worn under a jacket and styled
according to fashion.

86. Wash and Wear

A promotional phrase implying that a garment is non-iron or requires the minimum
of ironing after appropriate washing.

87. Whole Back

The back section of a garment which is cut in one piece.

88. Yoke
The upper section of a garment covering the front and/or back from the shoulder
seams, usually to chest level. This section is separately sewn to the main body of
the garment.

B. Technical terms

89. Back-and-Fore
A hand stitch employed for sewing linings and pockets. It involves taking a back
and then a running stitch before the needle is removed. (A combination of B.S.
Stitch Types 202 and 209).

90. Back Stitch

A hand stitch used to seam garment parts. So called because the needle, on
emerging, goes back to be inserted at the end of the previous stitch. Notable for its
strength and flexibility.

91. Backing
A strip of linen or other material placed on the under side of part of a garment to
take the strain.

92. Back Tacking

Reverse sewing at the beginning or end of a seam for reinforcement.

93. Bagging

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 A method of joining facings and/or linings to the outer fabric of a garment by
sewing them together face to face in the form of a bag and then turning the
garment out to the right side.

94. Balance
Garment balance is the adjustment of the relation of one section of a garment to
another, in harmony with the natural attitude; of the figure, especially that of back
and front lengths.

95. Balance Marks

Notches, nips or threads in garment parts, which help to preserve the balance of the
garment by serving as guides during assembly. They are generally put at side
seams and elsewhere as necessary.

96. Bar Tacking

Reinforcement by means of repeated stitching. Used in clothing at points of strain
(e.g. buttonholes, pocket corners, seam ends and belt loops).

97. Baste or Basting

Running stitches either by hand or machine used to hold garment parts together in
order that a further operation can be carried out. Sometimes a garment is basted
together for a first try-on.

98. Bias
An oblique direction to warp and weft. True bias is at an angle of 45 degrees from
both warp and weft.
Bias cut. A cut at an oblique angle to warp and weft.
Also known as cutting on the cross.

99. Blind Stitch

A stitch (either by hand or machine) which does not go right through the cloth.

100. Bluffing
The process of fastening down the front edge of facings onto the forepart canvas to
preserve the shape of edges finished without outside stitching. (See Bluff edges).

101. Bluff Edges (also Bluffed Edges)

Edges finished without outside stitching (see Bluffing).

102. Bound Seam

A seam having its fabric edges bound with a straight cut or bias cut strip. (See
Edge Binding)

103. Butt Seam

A seam which is sewn with the two fabric edges butting.

104. Canvas Making

The sewing together of all the pieces which form the interlining of a jacket or coat
either by hand or by machine.

105. Chain Stitch

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 (Hand). An elongated loop stitch used almost exclusively for ornamentation. (B.S.
Stitch Type 203).
(Machine). Single Thread. This stitch formed by a single thread carried by the
needle, the loop being drawn ahead from stitch to stitch, so that successive loops
pass through each other to form a chain. (B.S. Stitch Type 101).
Two Thread. This stitch is formed by an upper or needle thread, and a lower or
looper thread, laced together on the underside of the material to form a double
chain. (B.S. Stitch Type 401).

106. Closing
The operating of joining side seams and/or machining the lining to the forepart.

107. Contour Stitching

Automatic sewing along or hear the edge of a garment part. The shape may be
predetermined or edge following.

108. Covering Stitches

Types of chainstitch produced on twin- or multi-needle machines, used for
covering seams, (e.g. B.S. Stitch Class 600).

109. Cross Stitch

A hand stitch, the formation of which begins on the left and consists in passing the
needle alternately on and off the edge slightly through the material and in advance
of the last stitch. Used as a substitute for felling or for ornamentation of raw edges.
(B.S. Stitch Type 204).

200. Custom Made Parting material with hand shears, or by machine.

201. Cuttings
Small pieces of cloth left over after cutting.

202. Die-Cutting or Die Pressing

To cut one or more layers of fabric using cutting tools (dies) or a composite cutting
tool in conjunction with machine pressure.

203. Drawing (Sewing)

The stitching together of 2 edges to create the appearance of being seamed in the
ordinary way. Performed by alternately passing the needle through each folded
edge and interlining to draw the two edges close together.

204. Drawing in (Tailoring)

A running stitch drawn to achieve gathering or gauging of the material. There is
also a form of drawing in used for the purpose of holding folds in various forms on
garments as in the gowns of barristers, children's frock, etc.

205. Dressing
A process whereby a finish is applied to impart additional properties to the
material, such as stiffness or lustre.

206. Drilling

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 Marking key positions such as pockets and darts through all thicknesses of a lay by
use of a drilling machine, or similar machine with a hollow needle.

207. Drop Loop

A method of lowering the belt loop below the top of the trouser waist band
(usually 1 cm. - 2 cm.) or dress waist. This method prevents the belt from riding
above the waist.

208. Durable Press

A finishing treatment designed to impart to a textile material or garment the
retention of specific contours including creases and pleats resistant to normal
usage, washing and/or dry cleaning.

Note: The treatment may involve the use of synthetic resin which may be applied
and cured either before or after fabricatic of a garment, or, in the case of textiles
composed of heat-settable fibres, high-temperature pressing. (T.I.)

209. Easing-In
The manipulation of an additional amount of one of the materials into a seam in
order to create fullness.

210. Edge Following

Automatic sewing along or near the edge of a garment. The shape of the seam
being determined by the edge of the fabric which is detected automatically.

211. Faggot Stitch

A form of lockstitch, using a modified Zigzag machine, used principally in the
corsetry industry, for joining material, allowing a narrow gap between the two
edges. The machine performs a cycle of three stitches, the first through one piece
of material, the second in the aperture, and the third through the opposite piece of
material.

212. Feather Stitch

A decorative stitch, principally used in corsetry. A similar machine cycle is
employed as for the faggot stitch but the joining of two edges is not involved.

213. Felling
The operation of over-sewing a piece of material by its edge (raw or turned in)
upon the body material. Blindstitch machine, are used for many felling operations,
(e.g. B.S. Stitching Type EF1-1 and B.S. Hand Stitch Type 214)

214. Fine Drawing

The hand operation of repairing faults in fabrics by sewing or closing up the places
where threads or yarns are missing. A form of invisible mending.

215. French Seam

A seam within a seam. Two pieces of fabric sewn together, folded over, and sewn
again so that the edges are concealed.

215. Fullness

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 The additional amount of one of the materials joined at a seam which is allowed in
order to create the desired shape in a part of a finished garment, e.g. a sleeve head.
(See Easing-in)

216. Fusing
The action of bonding a fusible interlining to a garment piece the action of heat
and pressure.

217. Gathering
The shortening of the fabric length of drawing together and holding a succession
of small folds of material by stitching. Machine gathering or gauging is achieved
by the use of a special presser foot or attachment.

218. Gauging
See Gathering

219 Glaze
A term used to describe the finish of a cloth which has been given a smooth high-
polished surface. Obtained by means of friction when calendering in fabric form.
A shiny mark or effect of glaze obtained by excessively hot ironing or bad pressing
in garment form.

220. Gloss
Shine on the fabric after pressing, usually caused by heat and pressure in the areas
of extra thickness such as pockets and seams.

221. Grading
The process of producing a range of patterns of different sizes from a master
pattern.

222. Grain
The direction of the warp of the fabric.
Cutting straight grain - cutting with the grain.
Cross grain - across the grain.
Off grain - See bias.

223. Grinning
The term applied to a seam which has opened as a result of incorrect sewing thread
tension.

224. Heat Setting

Stabilisation of synthetic fibre fabrics, yarns or threads by high temperature.

225. Heat Transfer Printing

A method of textile printing in which the complete design is transferred from a
previously printed transfer medium (usually paper) on to the fabric with which is it
in contact, by means of heat and pressure.

226. Impression (Pressing)

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 Surface unevenness after pressing, usually round areas of extra thickness, such as
pockets and seams.

227. Inserted
A seam in which a single or number of piles of fabric is inserted between two
others which are turned in. The complete assembly is sewn in one operation.

228. Lap-Felled Seam

A seam formed with the edges of both plies of fabric concealed by inter-lapping.
Two or more rows of stitches secure the turned pieces of fabric.

229. Lashing
The fastening of the inside seams of coat edgings or facings to the outer fabric or
interlining, in order to hold them in position. Usually sewn by a blind stitch
machine.

230. Laying Up
The process of spreading cloth to form a lay.
Often called "Spreading".

231. Lock Stitch

A stitch formed by an upper or needle thread or threads and a lower bobbin thread
interlaced together. In a correctly balanced stitch the threads usually interlace
midway between the top and bottom surfaces of the material being stitched. (B.S.
Stitch Class 300).

232. Loop Stitch

A type of hand stitch used for oversewing edges so as not to increase their
thickness by having an edge turned in.

233. Making Up
Converting material into garments.

234. Marking-In
Marking around the component garment patterns with chalk or other means to
indicate where fabric is to be cut. The term can also apply to marking with pencil
when making paper markers.

235. Measure Cutting

The cutting of a garment to individual measurements.

236. Neatening
Finishing a cut edge to prevent fraying. Various methods include: turning in the
edge, pinking, overedging, tapin, etc.
237. Notches
Small cuts made in the edges of garment parts which are used as guides during
garment assembly. See also Balance Marks.

238. Offpressing
The final pressing operations on a garment after assembly. Also called Pressing
Off.
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239. Offshape
A variation from an establish-consistent colour normally arising from a defect in
dyeing either yarns or fabrics.

240. Openness
The provision for leg stance in the angle of the leg seams.

241. Overedging
The use of the overedge stitch either by hand or machine which binds the edge to
avoid fraying. Can also be used as a decoration: Overedge Stitch: The description
applied to B.S. Stitch numbers 501, 502, 503, 504, and 505. In its basic form it is
a chain stitch, the needle thread loop being carried from the underside of the fabric
over the edge and returned to the line of stitching to be secured by the needle on its
next downward stroke. Varying amounts of edge cover can be obtained by using
machines employing more threads. Also described as Overlocking.

242. Overlock Seam

A seam in which two or more edges of fabric are joined together, oversewn and
edge-trimmed in one operation, with overedge stitches having two or more threads.

243. Overlocking
See Overedging.

244. Padding
The operation of imparting shape by successive rows of sewing, normally at the
lapels and collar.

245. Pinking
Gimping or serrating an edge in the form of V-shaped cuts by a machine or
handshears normally having a serrated blade. The operation is undertaken
primarily to prevent fraying and achieves a decorative raw edge.

246. Piping
A strip of material cut on the bias, applied folded, normally to the edge of a
garment with or without filling. Also a narrow fabric having a cord on one edge.

247. Pitch
The balanced insertion of the sleeve into the garment controlled by balance marks
in the scye line.

248. Plain Seam

See Seam.
249. Plugging
Fastening decorative buttons by inserting a plug through the eyes of the metal
shanks on the inside of garment.

250. Pressing
The removing or creating of creases or shape into fabrics by heat and/or steam
and/or vacuum, or a combination of these with pressure.

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251. Pressing Off
See Off Pressing

252. Prick Stitch

A stitch made by passing the needle straight through the material at right angles to
the surface, alternately from one side to the other.

253. Profile Stitching

Automatic sewing following a predetermined profile e.g. by a jig or cams. Usually
applied to the automatic stitching of small parts. (See Contour Stitching, Stitching
Jig).

254. Puff
A small wedge of the same material sewn on to a "V" cut at various positions in
canvas or lining making to create "Spring" or length over a prominence, such as
the shoulder-bones.

255. Quilting
Raised or padded effect produced by stitching, in parallel rows or to a pattern, two
layers of fabric lined or interlined with wadding or similar material. The operation
can be performed by single needle or multi-needle machines.

256. Ruffling A form of Gathering.

257. Running Stitch

A continuous stitch formed by passing the thread through the material alternately
from top to underside and vice versa. (B.S. Stitch Type 209)

258. Seam Busting or Seam Opening

Pressing open seams, often carried out as an intermediate operation during garment
assembly.

259. Seaming
Joining together the component parts of a garment, at a given distance from the
edge of the material.

260. Serging
The operation of neatening the cut edge to avoid fraying, by means of an overedge
stitch.

261. Serrated Edge

See Pinking
262. Sewing Out
Sewing parts of a garment together with the raw edges turned it

263. Sewing Round

Sewing round the coat edges to join the outer cloth to the facing or the facing and
lining.

264. Shaping

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 Cutting the correct shape and size by use of a template or shaper, for example at
the lapel and collar.

265. Spiking
The use of spikes fixed to one edge of a hinged table to facilitate the even laying-
up of fine fabrics. The tabletop is titled vertically for hanging the fabric, and back
to the horizontal for cutting.

267. Stitch
One of a series of units of conformation of threads resulting from the
thread/threads being repeatedly passed through or into the material during sewing.

268. Stoting
A hand stitch used to draw together two cut edges of fabric. (B.S. Stitch Type 216)

269. Sub-Assembly (Garment)

A part of a garment which is made separately as a unit before it is joined to the
main garment.

270. Suppression
The creation of shape by removal of a calculated amount of fabric from the surface
area of the garment. In women's wear the term shape is commonly used for this
operation.

271. Swelled Edges

An effect achieved by a row of stitching sewn at a specific and regular distance
from the finished edge of a garment, e.g. 0.5cm. to 2 cm.

272. Tacking
Machine or hand stitching, sometimes decorative, to reinforce parts of a garment
(see Bar Tacking). In some sections of the industry this term is also used to
describe the temporary joining together of parts of a garment, prior to final sewing,
which is defined above as Basting.

273. Taped Seam

A seam which includes straight tape. Normally used to prevent stretching and for
strength.

274. Tease
To raise a nap on fabrics. To open out a fibrous mass.

275. Tension (Thread)

The stress which is placed on a thread, longitudinally, during the process of
stitching. Tensioning devices are incorporated in sewing machines to regulate the
set or balance of the stitch by controlling the needle-threads and under-threads.

276. Thread Marking (1)

Temporary stitches to mark the fitting lines of a bespoke garment.

277. Thread Marking

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 Marking key positions such as pockets and darts by means of threads inserted
through all the plies of a lay with a thread-marking machine.

278. Top Stitching Exposed stitching normally sewn at a uniform distance from a seat.
Mainly used for style or decorative effect.

279. Underpressing
The pressing operations carried out during manufacture of the garment; usually
seam opening but fusing in included, as is first edge pressing.

C. Terms for Machines and Equipment

280. Band Knife

A mechanically driven endless moving blade which passes through a slot in a table.
Normally used for cutting many layers of cloth at the same time.

281. Block
A piece of hard wood, smooth faced, used for setting work during pressing.

282. Blowing
The issue of air from the buck of a pressing machine, the reverse of vacuum.

283 Board (Tailors)

The place where the tailor works, usually in the form of a table, on which he sits
when sewing and at which he stands when doing other work. (The cutter works at
a cutting board).

284. Bodkin
A pointed instrument for piercing holes in cloth. A needle with a blunt point and a
large eye for drawing tape, elastic etc. through a hem, etc. A bone or plastic
instrument for removing bastings.

285. Buck
The lower, static, work surface of the pressing machine which incorporates the
shape or contour onto which the garment is laid.

286. Bust (Stand)

A shaped form (male or female) on which clothes are displayed or modelled.

287. Chalk, Tailor's

A piece of flat pipeclay, either square or triangular in shape, used for marking
cloth, and colloquially known as clay.

289. Check Spikes

Free-standing steel spikes, 15-20 cm. high, which are placed at certain points on a
lay, usually the corners of check pattern in order to ensure that the checks match
each other when cut.

289. Cladding
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 Any item of covering material which is applied to the head or buck of a pressing or
underpressing machine.

299. Dolly
A strip of cloth rolled up tightly and bound with tape or striping at one end. Used
like a brush for applying moisture during pressing.

300. Donkey
A pressing board in which an upper padded board is supported above the base.
Designed so that parts of a garment may be pressed without creasing the garment
as a whole.

301. Dummy
A padded frame, shaped like a human torso, usually mounted on a pedestal.
Dressings stand for tailor or dressmaker (see Bust).

302. Gauge
A standard measure of distance, e.g. the distance between needles on a sewing
machine.

303. Goose
An old term used to describe a pressing iron which was somewhat similar to a
goose in shape. See also Weasel.

304. Hanger (Coat)

A device of wood, metal or plastic from which a garment is hung.

305. Head
The upper, movable, working surface of the pressing machine which incorporates
the mating shape or contour to that of the buck. The head comes into contact with
the garment with or without pressure.

306. Hot notcher

A machine with a heated blade used for making position marks on the edge of cut
fabric parts.

307. Iron
A hand tool used when pressing, usually pointed at the front and square at the rear,
with a handle over the body of the iron so that a balanced grip may be obtained. It
may be heated by electricity, gas, and steam or on a stove.
308. Jumper Underpress
That type of underpressing machine which has a steam heated buck and an iron
which is mounted on the end of a swinging arm (jointed or straight). Pressure is
applied through a linkage from a foot pedal to the movable arm and so to the iron.

309. Lay Pins

Thin steel pins about 10-15 cm. long with large heads. They are pushed through
the waste parts of fabric lays to hold them firm for cutting. Mostly used on quilted
fabrics.

310. Puller Feed

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 See Sewing Machine Feed Mechanisms.

311. Rotary Knife Cutting Machine

A machine with a circular rotating blade, generally used for cutting straight lines
or gradual curves in fabric lays of limited depth.

312. Shears
A hand-cutting tool similar to scissors but with angled blades and thumb rests, and
with a cutting edge of upwards of 20 cm.

313. Spot and Cross Paper

The alternate spot and cross design printed on white marking paper and used as a
master marker.

314. Stitching Jig

Two rigid plates usually hinged together, between which fabric is clamped for
stitching. The plates are guided by a track thus enabling unskilled labour to be
used in the production of accurately shaped small parts. An e.g. collar, cuffs, flaps.
(See also Profile Stitching).

315. Straight Knife Cutting Machine

A machine with a vertical reciprocating blade used for cutting fabric lays. Also
called Vertical Knife Cutting Machine.

316. Tape Measure

A narrow tape for measuring, calibrated in centimetres and millimetres and/or
inches and fractions of an inch.

317. Thimble
A metal or plastic cover for the end of the finger, used to force the needle through
the material when hand sewing. A series of indentations on the surface prevents
the thimble from slipping.

318. Vertical Knife Cutting Machine

See Straight Knife Cutting Machine

319. Weasel
An old term for a long, thin type of pressing iron.
(See also Goose).
320. Yard Stick
A rule used for measuring, 36 inches in length.

321. Zigzag Machine

A swing-needle sewing machine, either lockstitch or chain stitch, the needle bar of
which alternates laterally.

D. Terms related to production

322. Bundle

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 A number of similar garment parts temporarily kept together for convenience of
handling. (See Conventional Bundle System, Progressive Bundle System).

323. C.M.T.
An abbreviation of "Cut, Make and Trim". A branch of the trade in which a
contractor is supplied with material only to produce garments for a principal.

324. Conventional Bundle System

A production system in which bundles pass from storage to an operator and then
back to storage for allocation to the next operation.

323. Conveyor System

A type of straight Line System in which operators are positioned at the side of a
conveyor, which is used to transport the garment parts.

324. Cuttle
A method of folding finished cloth (in open width or folded down the middle) and
placing it in transerve folds of a predetermined width, often of approximately 1
metre lengths.

325. Double
Any material which has been folded along the middle of its length, normally with
the face side inwards, so that the selvedges are together. Cutting on the double is
performed by cutting through two thicknesses so as to obtain two pieces, i.e. a
right and left hand section.

326. Draft
A constructed plan of a garment; the application of body or garment measurements
to a flat plane.

327. Lay Marker See Marker.

328. Lay Planning

The arranging of patterns of the component parts of a garment within a given
width of fabric in order to obtain the most economical use of the material. Also
called Layout Planning.

329. Make Through

The traditional method of garment manufacture, in which one operator completely
assembles one garment at a time.

320. Marker
The representation or drawing of the final arrangement of the patterns of the
component parts of a garment or garments in the form of a master plan for cutting,
intended to make the best use of the material. The marker is placed on the lay
prior to cutting. Also called Lay Marker.
321. Progressive Bundle System

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 A production system in which bundles pass from one operator to the next with
some work in hand at each operation. The operations are laid out in sequence with
the required number of machines for approximate balance allocated to each.

322. Progressive Line System

A production system in which single garments or parts are assembled. During
assembly the parts are passed from one operator to the next resulting in some work
in hand.

323. Seam Slippage

The pulling away of fabric from a seam under tension.

324. Selector Conveyor

A type of conveyor on which, after each operation, the work is programmed to
travel automatically to the correct workstation for the next operation. The term is
also used to describe production systems using similar types of conveyor.

325. Spray Marking

A method of outlining patterns prior to cutting by spraying over the lay, leaving
the pattern area as a silhouette which can then be cut out.

326. Spreading
Another term for laying-up.

327. Straight line system

A production system in which single garment or parts are assembled by passing
through a series of consecutive operations.

328. Synchro-flow
Another name for Progressive line system.

329. Workplace Engineering

Designing and making a work place to enable an operator to work more efficiently.

330. Work study

A generic term for the techniques used in the study of methods of manufacture.

E. Materials and Accessories terms

331. Appliqué
A cutout design or shape attached to the face of a fabric for ornamentation,
frequently of a different type and/or shade of fabric.

332. Bonded fibre fabric

A structure consisting of one or more webs or masses of fibres, held together with
a bonding material, widely used for interlinings.

333. Bridle
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 A narrow strip of material, usually cotton, which is padded to the canvas along the
roll of the lapel to hold and control it.

334. Button
A knob or disc which is attached to garments as a means of fastening or
ornamentation.

335. Buttonhole twist

Tightly twisted thread, usually three-cord, used in Hand sewn buttonholes.

336. Canvas
A closely woven fabric used as an interlining in men's and women's jackets and
coats. Canvases are made from cotton, flax, hemp, jute and man-made fibres (see
interlining).

337. Cheese
A cylindrical package of yarn, cross-wound on to a flangeless support.

338. Cloth
Any woven material may be described as a cloth, but in the tailoring trade the
word cloth is usually applied only to the principal or outside material of a garment.

339. Cloth, Damping

A piece of absorbent fabric which is wetted and laid over a garment during
pressing. This has the effect of increasing the humidity in that area and preventing
the formation of gloss on some fabrics.

340. Collar canvas

A special canvas used as an interlining material in collars to obtain stiffness and to
retain shape.

341. Cone
A conical shaped form on which yarn or thread is wound to form a package.

342. Cop
See spool.

343. Core spun thread

A yarn or thread which is a combination of continuous filaments, providing the
core, and staple yarn, providing the sheath.

344. Dommett
A variety of thin wadding.

345. Double faced

The term applied to material which can be worn on either side.

346. Drape

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 An adjective describing the way cloth falls when hung. The draping. The draping
quality varies with the structure, composition and finish of the material.

347. Ends
The warp yarns in a fabric.

348. Fabric
An alternative name for cloth in the broad general sense, but in the trade normally
limited to cotton and silk materials. A material which can be knitted, woven or of
bonded fibre, made from the combination of manufactured textiles, fibres and
yarns.

349. Face side

The side of the fabric intended to be shown whilst in wear.

350. Faced cloths

Cloths which have a different weave (pile) or finish (nap) on the face side as
opposed to the reverse and are cut "one-way".

351. Filament
A fibre of indefinite length.

352. Finished cloth

Cloth which has been treated after its initial manufacture to make it suitable for its
intended end-use. The term includes treatments such as bleaching; dyeing,
shrinking and the imparting of easy care properties.

353. Fusible interlining

An interlining which has been treated so that it adheres to other fabrics by the
application of heat and pressure.

354. Gimp
A special thread used to support and raise the buttonhole stitching. Also used for
embroidery.

355. Haircloth
A stiff wiry fabric normally used to strengthen coat interlinings (e.g. in the chest
area). It has a cotton or linen warp and a weft of horsehair. The hair is from the
mane or the tail.
356. Handle
The feeling of a fabric to the hand.

357. Interlining
A layer of material inserted in certain parts of the garment between the inner and
outer fabric for shape retention, strength, warmth or bulk.

358. Laminated fabric

A material comprising two or more layers of fabric bonded together. The laminate
can incorporate layers of other materials. Also referred to as "Combined fabric".

359. Ligne
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 A standard measure, equal to ore fortieth of an inch, by which buttons and ribbons
are measured. E.g. A 10 ligne button is one quarter of an inch in diameter.

360. Lining
Material used to cover part or the entire inside of a garment.

361. Machine twist

A thread processed for use on sewing machines.

362. Monofilament thread

A thread comprising only one continuous filament.

363. Multifilament thread

A thread consisting of a number of individual, continuous filaments.

364. Nap
A fibrous surface produced on a fabric or felt in which part of the fibre is raised
from the basic structure.

365. Narrow fabric

Any woven fabric is not exceeding 45cm in width normally having two selvedges.

366. Non-woven fabric

Normally refers to a fabric made by the bonding of fibres together by chemical or
mechanical means.

367. Offshade
A variation from an established consistent colour normally arising from a defect in
dyeing either yarns or fabrics.

368. Pad
Any form of wadding, felt, foam or rubber inserted into a garment for the purpose
of shape or fit.

369. Picks
The weft yarns in a fabric.

370. Pile
A surface effect on a fabric formed by tufts or loops of yarn, introduced into the
fabric for the purpose that stands up from the body of the cloth.

371. Ply (cloth)

A single thickness of cloth in a lay or seam. The number of plies in an assembly is
the number of cloth thickness.

372. Ply (thread)

An individual yarn in a thread. The number of plies in a thread is the number of
yarns which are twisted together to form the thread.

373. Selvedge
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 When used without qualification this term refers to the longitudinal edges of a
textile fabric, which are formed during manufacture in such a way that the
component threads are interlaced to prevent them from revelling or fraying.

374. Sewing 'thread

A plied thread made of two or more yarns twisted together, or a multi-filament
yarn. The term 'thread' is also loosely applied to monofilament.

375. Silesia
A smooth-faced cotton cloth used for pocketing, trimming or lining garments.

376. Slide fastener

A fastening device consisting of two flexible interlocking stringers* (with or
without, end stops) and a slider so arranged that by moving the slider along the
stringers in one direction, an opening is formed and by moving it in the other, the
opening is closed. The end which is adjacent to the slider when the device is fully
open is designated the bottom end. The other end is designated the top end.
*Stringer- a textile tape to which is attached a row of metal or plastic members
which may or may not be inter-connected. Designed to interlock with another row
similarly attached to another tape.

377. Spool (thread)

A cardboard or plastic tube used as a base on which to wind thread. Also called
“cop”.

378. Stay tape

A narrow strip of firmly woven fabric, plain weave and non-stretch, usually with
linen warp and cotton weft, used for strengthening or controlling various parts of a
garment.

379. Swatch
A bunch or collection of sample cuttings of materials used to indicate their
representative characteristics.

380. Twist
(a) The direction in which yarns or filaments are rotated in order to form a thread.
Threads are supplied as 'right' (S) or 'left' (Z) twist thread.
(b) The type of thread principally used for buttonholes and topstitching. It may be
mercerised cotton or silk.

381. Trimmings
A wide variety of garment components including such items as canvas, linings,
buttons, twist, silk, zip and others.

382. Wadding
A loose, cohering mass of teased fibre. Usually in the form of a sheet or roll used
as padding in the making up of garments.

383. Warp
A series of longitudinal yarns (ends) in woven material.

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384. Weft
A series of yarns (picks) woven across the warp, from one selvedge to the other.

385. Yarn
A continuous strand of fibres, usually twisted, used in weaving, knitting and thread
forming.

386. Zip fastener

See slide fastener.

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