Fabric Structure and Design

Book References:
1. Understanding Textiles for a merchandizer by Engr. Shah Alimuzzaman
Belal
2. Grammer of Textile Design by H. Nisbet
3. Laboratory Practice in Knitting Technology by L. Kudriavan (Publisher: Mir
Publishers, Moscow)
4. Watson`s Textile Design and Colour by Z. Grosicki

1
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER
Introduction
Fabric
Fabric is a flexible planar
substance constructed from
solutions, fibres, yarns or fabrics
in any combination. Textile
fabrics can be produced directly
from webs of fibres by bonding,
fusing or interlocking to make
non-woven fabrics and felts, but
their physical Properties tend to
restrict their potential end-usage.
The mechanical manipulation of
yarn into fabric is the most
versatile method of manufacturing
textile fabrics for a wide range of
end- uses.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 2
Woven fabrics are composed of longitudinal or warp
threads and transverse or weft threads, Interlaced
with one another according to the class of structure
and form of design that are desired.
According to weave structures woven fabrics may be
conveniently divided into two principal categories, as
follows
1.Simple Structure
2.Compound structure

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 3

Features of simple structure:
1.The ends and picks are
interlaced with one another at
right angle.
2.Threads of each group are
respectively parallel to each
other.
3.Only one series of ends and
picks are used in the
construction.
4.Both the aspect of utility or
performance in a fabric and the
aspects of aesthetic apparel rely
on all the constituent threads.
Example: Plain, Twill, Satin.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 4
Features of compound
structure:
1.More than one series of ends and
picks are used in the structure.
2.The body of the fabric such as ground
yarns determines some of the threads.
Some may be employed entirely for
ornamental purposes such as figuring
and face yarns.
3.Some threads may be not found in the
parallel formation one to another in
either plane and indeed there are many
pile surface construction in which some
threads may project out at right angles
to the general plane of the fabric.
Extra warp design fabric
Example: Extra warp/weft design, Pile
fabric, Seer sucker fabric, Towel etc.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 5
Methods of fabric representation
A weave is the interlacing pattern of the warp and weft.
There are two ways of interlacement.
A. Warp overlap in which warp is above weft.

B. Weft overlap in which weft is above warp.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 6

There are two practical methods of weave representation :
• Linear method
• Canvas method

Canvas Method Linear Method

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Important Terms
One repeat of weave : A number
of inter lacings combined together in
both direction produces a unit of design
and one repeat of weave.
Formula number : Any structure
or interlacement represent as a small
fraction is known as formula number.
Repeat number or repeat size
(R.S) : No. of warp yarn and no. of
weft yarn in a repeat is known as warp
repeat no. and weft repeat no.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 8

Weave plan:
The weave plan is the
representation of the
interlacement of warp and
weft yarn in the woven
fabric. A blank in a square
indicates that a warp goes
below the corresponding
weft and any color or ‘X’
mark in the square
indicates that the warp
floats above the weft.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 9

Features of a design or weave plan
The vertical lines or space is represented as a warp.
The horizontal lines or space is represented as a weft.
One complete repeat should be shown on design paper.
Each square indicates an intersection of a warp and a
weft.
‘X’ mark or color represents warp over weft.
 Blank square represents weft over warp.
 # indicates starting point.
 symbols indicates repeat unit.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 10

Grain:
Grain refers to the geometry or position of warp yarns relative to
filling yarns in the fabric. A fabric that is on-grain has warp yarns
parallel to each other and perpendicular to the filling yarns that
move straight across the fabric. Lengthwise grain is parallel to the
warp yarns. Crosswise grain is parallel to the weft yarns. Fabrics
are almost always woven on-grain. Handling, finishing, or stress
due to yarn twist, weave or other fabric aspects may cause fabrics
to distort and Iose their on-grain characteristic. These fabrics are
off-grain. Fabric quality has increased significantly and it is rare to
find fabrics as badly off-grain.
There are two types of off-grain.
Skew: Skew occurs when the weft yarn is at an angle other than
90º to the warp.
Bow: Bow occurs when the weft yarns dip in the center of the
fabric.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 11
Structure
The order of interlacement of warp and weft threads at
right angles is known as structure of woven fabrics. The
interlooping system of yarns is known as structure for knit
fabrics.
Texture
Texture refers to surface variations in fabric that can be
used as an effective element of design. Fiber type, yarn
structure, fabric construction, and fabric finishes can
create infinite varieties of texture.
Sett
A term used to indicate the number of ends/inch or
ends/cm and pick/inch or pick/cm.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 12

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 13
Identification of Face and Back of a Fabric
The face and back side of a fabric is determined by the
appearance of the fabric. The way of determining the face
of a fabric are-
The face side has the more luster than the back side.
If luster is not present, then the side having more clarity
in the design is the face.
If both side are luster and the clarity of the design is
same on both sides then any side can be taken as face.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 14

Identification of warp and weft of a fabric

Warp and weft of a woven fabric can be identified by

following-
1.The selvedge always runs in the lengthwise (warp)
direction of a fabric.
2.Size in the yarn of a grey fabric indicate the warp yarn.
3.Generally warp density is higher than weft density but it
is doubtful when EPI and PPI are equal.
4.Most fabrics have lower elongation in the warp direction.
5.The warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the
fabric because of loom tension.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 15

6.Fancy or special-fancy yarns are usually in the filling
direction.
7.Fabric characteristics may differentiate between the
warp and weft yarn. For example, warp rib give the rib
direction in the weft way.
8.Warp yarns tend to be smaller, are more uniform in
structure and appearance and have higher twist.
9.Fabric crimp is usually greater for weft yarns since the
weft yarn must bend or flex over or under warp yarns due
to the way the loom operates.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 16

Factors which affect woven cloth structure
The nature of yarns used.
The count or relative thickness of the yarns used as
warp and weft
The order of interlacing the ends and picks
Thread density of a fabric
Modifications produced by finishing

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Calculation of Fabric Weight

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Basic Elements or Parts of a Complete Woven Design
The three basic elements in a woven design are :
• Design or weave plan
• Draft or drawing plan
• Peg plan or lifting plan

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The design indicates the interlacement of warp and weft threads in
the repeat of the design. It is made up of a number of squares, which
constitute the repeat size of a design. The vertical direction of the
squares indicate the picks and the horizontal direction indicates the
ends. A blank in a square indicates that a warp goes below the
corresponding weft and ‘X’ mark in the square indicates that the
warp floats above the weft.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 20

Drafting plan: The process of drawing the warp yarn through the
eye of heald frames according to design is called drafting and the
plan which indicates how drafting needs to be done is called
drafting plan. It also denotes the number of heald shaft required for
a given weave repeat.

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Lifting Plan : Lifting Plan defines the selection of heald frames to be
lifted or lowered on each successive insertion of weft yarn. In a lifting
plan the vertical spaces indicate the heald shafts and the horizontal
spaces indicate the picks. The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of
the weave plan. Lifting plan is same as the design for straight draft.
Hence no peg plan is necessary in the case of a straight draft.

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Denting Plan : The process of inserting warp threads or
ends through the dents of reed is called denting and the
plan that indicate the order in which denting is done is
called denting plan. Usually two yarns are passed through
each dent.

Denting Hook
Reed

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 23

Drafting System
A draft indicates the number of heald shaft, used to
produce a given design and the order in which the warp
threads or ends are threaded through the mail eyes of the
healds. In the drafting plan, space between two vertical
line indicates warp yarn and space between two horizontal
line indicates the heald shaft.
Indicating method of drafting system are-
By numbering system
By ruling lines
By the use of design paper

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 24

By ruling line : Ruling line in which the horizontal lines represent the
healds and vertical lines indicate the warp threads. The marks on the
line indicate the healds upon which the respective threads are drawn.
By design paper : Design paper method in which the horizontal lines
represent the healds and vertical lines indicate the warp threads. The
cross marks are inserted upon the small squares which indicates the
thread are passed through respective heald shaft.
By numbering : Numbering method in which the heald frame
number is written below the warp yarn in a weave design. This
numbers indicate the number Fuadof heald
Ahmed, shaft.
Lecturer, NITER 25
Types of drafting system
Different types of drafting system are:-
Straight draft
Skip draft
Pointed draft
Broken draft
Divided draft
Grouped draft
Combined draft
Curved draft

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 26

Straight draft:
This draft is the simplest types of
draft where individual warp yarn in a
repeat is place in individual heald
frame. No need of lifting plan for
straight draft as lifting plan is similar
to design.
• Number of helad shaft is equal to
the number of warp yarn in the
repeat.
• Lifting plan is the same as design.
• Used in twill and satin design.
• The simplest and mostly used draft
system.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 27

Skip draft:
This draft is used in weaving when
density of warp threads (EPI) is
high.
Number of heald frames may be
used twice or multiple of two than
the number of warp yarn in a repeat.
This draft reduces the friction
between the yarns.
The heald frames are divided into
two groups. All even numbered warp
threads are drawn through the
1st group of heald frames and all odd
numbered warp ends are drawn
through the 2nd group of heald
frames.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 28
Pointed draft or V-draft:
In this draft system a straight draft is
reversed after half the repeat warp
way.
This draft is used when the repeat
size is too large.
The number of heald shafts is
equal to half the number of warp
yarn in a repeat size of the weave.
Pointed draft
The first and last heald shafts
contain two warp ends.
This draft is used to produce fabric
with symmetry design. e.g. zig-zag
twill, diamond.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 29

Broken draft:
This draft also referred to as herringbone draft.
This draft can be considered as a modified pointed draft.
This is a combination of straight drafts with different directions
constrictions.
The reversal of direction is not on the last or the first shaft as in
pointed or V-draft.
When the direction is reversed the first thread of the next group is
started higher or lower than the thread the thread of proceeding group.
Used for producing herringbone twills, diaper design etc.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 30

Divided draft :
This draft is used for derived weaves, double warp weaves, two
ply weaves, pile weaves and some others.
In this draft, the shaft are divided into two or more groups.
A suitable type of draft is chosen for each group.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 31

Grouped draft :
This drafts is used for producing check and stripe fabric.
Two sets of stripes are used in two sets of heald shafts.
The repeat of the draft is determined by the number of stripes and
the number of threads in each stripe.
The number of shafts in the draft depends upon the number of
stripes and the warp repeat of weave of each stripe.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 32

Combined draft :
Various methods of drawing in can be combined in one draft for
producing a certain type of fabric
Two or more drafts described above can be applied simultaneously,
for example, straight and skip or sateen, grouped and curved, and so
on.
It is a very complicated types of draft.
It can be chosen if there are some technological or economical
reasons.
The designer having a great experience can do it properly.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 33

Curved draft :
This draft is applied for fancy weave with large warp repeat unit.
Used to reduce the no. of heald shafts.
Curved drafts are irregular and cannot be classified.
The minimal number of heald shaft equals the numbers of threads in
warp repeat with different order of interlacing.
The drawing in is done applying the rule: aIl warp threads which
works alike are drawn on the same heald shaft.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 34

 Basic weave or structure

Woven fabric structure is defined as the interlacement of

warp and weft yarn at 90 degree angles to each other. It is
also called weave structure. The number of weave structures
that can be produced is practically unlimited. Three types of
basic weave structure form the basis of even the most
complex weaves. All structures can be derived from the three
basic weaves: Plain, Twill and Satin/Sateen. Most two-
dimensional woven fabrics are constructed from simple
weaves and of these at least 90% use plain weave.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 35

Graphical presentation of three basic weaves are following:

X
X X
X
X X X X
X
X X X X
X

m3
X X X X
X
# Plain # Twill
# Regular Satin

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 36

 Plain Weave

A weave in which there are 2 ends and 2 picks in a repeat is called

plain weave. It is the simplest of all weaves and variously known as
calico or tabby weave. It is mostly used weave. The firmness of any
woven structure depends on the frequency of interlacing between
the warp and weft threads. The greater the number of intersections
the better will be the firmness of the cloth. So the plain weave
shows the maximum firmness than any other weave. Plain weave is
used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhooti, sharee, shirting,
suiting etc.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 37

The plain weave has the following characteristics :
• It has the maximum number of binding points
• The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.
• The thread density is limited
• Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited.
• It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other
simple combination of threads, excepting that of “gauze” or “cross
weaving”.
• It has the smallest repeat 2 x 2.
• Both sides of the weave are identical.
• Each thread gives maximum amount of support to the adjacent
threads.
• Texture is stronger and firmer than any other ordinary cloth.
• Made from all kind of textile raw materials and yarns.
• Minimum 2 heald frames are required to form the weave.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 38
Classification of Plain Cloth

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 Derivatives/Modification of Plain Weave
Weaves developed on the basis of plain weave principle is called
derivatives/modification of plain weave. AII the weaves those are based
on plain weave principle are classified as follows:
Plain
Weave

Matt Rib
Weave Weave

Regular Irregula Stitch Fancy Warp Weft

Matt r Matt Matt Matt Rib Rib

Regular Irregular Regular Irregular

Warp Rib Warp Rib Weft Rib Weft Rib
The plain weave may be modified by extending it warp or weft way or
both. The extension of the plain weave thus produces a rib effect. A warp
rib results from extending the plain weave in the warp direction and a
weft rib structure results from extending the plain weave in the weft
direction. A matt rib results from extending the plain weave in43 both
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER
directions.
Rib Weave:
Ribbed or corded effects are variations
of the plain weave. Interesting and
attractive fabrics can be obtained with
the rib variation of the plain weave or
by making a rib-weave construction.
The rib may be produced in the warp or
in the weft by alternating fine yarns
with coarse yarns or single yarns with Warp Rib
doubled yarns. Rib weaves are used in
gross grain cloths, matelasse fabrics,
repp cloth which is extensively
employed for window blinds in railway
carriages and other vehicles,
upholstering furniture, and cambric
picket handkerchief. There are two
types of rib weave such as warp rib and Weft Rib
weft rib. Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 44
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 45
Regular Warp rib weave:
In this weave the number
of picks in the bundle
should be same, i.e. in the
formula number the
number above the fraction
line and below the fraction
line are same. The
thickness of all ribs are
same. So the same size of
ribs are produced on the
surface of the fabric. The
regular warp rib weaves
are shown in the figure.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 46

Irregular Warp rib weave:
In this case the number of
weft yarns in the bundle are
different i.e. in the formula
number the number above the
fraction line and below the
fraction line are not same.
The thickness of all ribs are
not same. So the different size
of ribs i.e. thick and thin ribs
are produced on the surface of
the fabric. The irregular warp
rib weaves are shown in the
figure.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 47

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 48
Regular Weft rib weave:
In this weave the number of
warp ends in the bundle
should be same i.e. in the
formula number there is
single number at the right
side of the fraction line.
The thickness of all ribs is
same. So the same size of
ribs is produced on the
surface of the fabric. The
regular weft rib weaves are
shown in the figure.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 49

Irregular Weft rib weave:
In this case the number of
warp yarns in the bundle is
different i.e. in the formula
number there is two
different numbers at the
right side of the fraction
line. The thickness of all
ribs is not same. So the
different size of ribs i.e.
thick and thin ribs are
produced on the surface of
the fabric. The irregular
weft rib weaves are shown
in the figure.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 50

Hopsack/Basket/Matt Weave:
The hopsack weave is a variation of the plain weave uses two or more warp
and/or two or more weft yarns side by side as one yarn. The matt rib
structures result from extending the plain weave in both directions. The
resultant cloth is fairly loose in weave. The hopsack weave is obtained by
doubling or otherwise multiplying the interlacing points of the plain weave
in both the warp and weft direction. Basket weaves are made with two or
more adjacent warps controlled by the same heald shaft and with two or
more weft yarns placed in the same shed. The interlacing pattern is similar
to a plain weave but two or more yarns follow the same parallel path. Basket
weave fabrics are more flexible and wrinkle resistant because there are
fewer interlacing per square inch. The fabrics look flatter than comparable
regular plain weave fabrics. However, long floats snag easily. The matt
weave cloth has a greater resistance to tearing. Matt weaves tend to give
smooth surfaced fabrics. In the repeat size of the matt weave the numbers of
warp and weft yarns are equal. Matt weave finds extensive uses for a great
variety of fabrics such as dress materials, shirtings, sail cloth, duck cloth etc.
There are four types of hopsack or matt weave such as regular matt,
irregular matt, stitch matt and fancy matt.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 51
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 52
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 53
Stitch Matt weave:
Matt or basket structures are
liable to slippage especially in
coarser weaves or when woven
with worsted yarns. To produce a
firm cloth with lower setting, the
centre ends in each square can be
stitched. In case of warp float
area the central warp yarn goes
down and in weft float area the
central warp yarn comes up.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 54

Fancy Matt weave:
Fancy matt is one kind of stitch
matt. In case of stitch matt, the
stitch or stitching thread is does
not affect the prominence of
actual regular matt effect. The
stitching thread is hidden by the
neighboring threads, so it does
not visible on the fabric surface.
But in the fancy matt the
stitching threads are not hidden,
they are visible. The stitching
system affects the design of the
regular matt weave. They
produce decorative appearance
on the fabric surface. It can be
compared with “katha” and
”nokshi-katha”.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 55
Ornamentation of plain cloth:
A plain weave is ornamented without deviating from the true principles of
plain weave as follows:
• The threads in both warp and weft vary in color, raw material, types of
construction and in thickness.
• Threads of different colors are combined in check form.
• By using fancy slub yarns.
• By combining different orders of denting.
• By using two warp beams which are different in tension produce seer-
sucker stripe in fabric.
• By using different twisted yarns (such as hard twisted weft yarn produce
crepon effect).
• By using different textile materials, such as wool and cotton is use to
produce union fabric.
• By using a specially shaped reed, which rises and falls the threads are
caused to form zigzag lines in the cloth.
• By using extremely fine or coarse yarn.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 56
End uses:
It is used for structures, which range from very heavy and coarse canvas and blankets
made of thick yarns to the lightest and finest cambries and muslins made in extremely
fine yarns.
Advantages and disadvantages of plain weave fabric:
Advantages:
• Wears well and Snag-resistant
• Offers appropriate background for printing, special finishes and applied surface
designs.
• Good dimensional stability for high fabric count i.e. high thread density.
• Fabric is reversible if not printed or finished with special effects.
Disadvantages:
• Hard to determine the face and back of the fabric.
• Appears uninteresting.
• Shows wrinkling.
• Lower tear strength than some other weaves.
• Shows soil readily. Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 57
The End

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 58

 Twill Weave
Twill weave is a kind of weave that repeat on three or more ends and picks and produces
diagonal line on the face of fabric. In a regular twill the diagonal line or twill line produces at
45 degree angle with the horizontal. Twill weave is second basic weave from the view of
production and use.

Features of Twill Weave:

The main feature of twill weave are mention bellow:-
• Diagonal line can be seen on the faced of the fabric.
• More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
• Less binding points than plain cloth
• Better cover than plain weave
• More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.
• Twill line may be from lower lift to upper right(Z-twill) or from lower right to upper lift(S-
twill) corner.
• Smaller repeat twill is(3)It means take at least three end and three picks produce twill
weave.
• Three or more heald shaft are required for shedding.
• Generally straight draft is used for twill weave besides this pointed or v draft is also used.
• Appearance it will design can be seen from both sides the fabric.
• Diagonal lines run at angle vary between(15-75)Degree but in a continuous or regular twill
is 45 degree. Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 59
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 60
Again, The angle made by the twill line with the horizontal
direction (weft direction) is known as angle of twill.

Ɵ=
Twill angle is dependent on the ratio between the ends/inch
and picks/inch in the cloth.
When the warp ends/inch is equal to the weft picks/inch, the
twill angle will be 45°.
When the warp ends/inch exceeds the weft picks/inch the twill
angle will be an obtuse angle i.e., >45° (high angle or steep
twill).
When the weft picks/inch exceeds the warp ends/inch, the twill
angle will be an acute angle i.e., <45° (low angle or flat twill).
Twill angle also depends on the following factors:
• Difference between warp and weft count.
• Rate of advancement inFuad
the interlacement
Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER of warp and weft. 61
 Classification of Twill Weave
Twill weaves can be classified from four points of view:
• According to the way of construction:
• Warp-way: 3/1 warp way twill, etc.
• Weft-way: 2/3 weft way twill, etc.
• According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric:
• S-Twill or left-hand twill weave: 2/1 S, etc.
• Z-Twill or right-hand twill weave: 3/2 Z, etc.
• According to the face yarn (warp or weft):
• Warp face twill weave: 4/2 S, etc.
• Weft face twill weave: 1/3 Z, etc.
• Double face twill weave: 3/3 Z, etc.
• According to the nature of the produced twill line:
• Simple twill weave: 1/2 S, 3/1 Z etc.
• Expanded twill weave: 4/3 S, 3/2 Z, etc.
• Multiple twill weave: 2/3/3/1 S, etc.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 62
 Derivatives of Twill weave:
Weaves are developed on the basis of principle of twill weave or
from a regular twill, these are called derivatives of twill weave. The
common twill derivatives are listed below:
• Zigzag or waved or pointed Twill weave
• Herringbone Twill weave
• Diamond design
• Diaper design
• Broken Twill weave
• Re-arranged Twill weave or Transposed Twill weave
• Stepped Twill weave
• Elongated Twill weave
• Combined Twill weave or combination of twill weave
• Shaded Twill weave or shaded design
• Curved Twill weave Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 63
Zigzag/Waved/Pointed Twill:
• Zigzag twill is achieved by reversing
the direction of the twill weave at
suitable intervals.
• A point is created in reversing point.
So, it is sometimes referred to as
Pointed Twill.
Uses: Figured or ornamented design,
Upholstery, Wall covering etc.
Types:
1. Horizontal Zigzag
2. Vertical Zigzag

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 64

Features of Horizontal Zigzag:
• The number of warp yarn is double to the number of
weft yarn in the repeat.
• Pointed draft is used for this design.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 65

Features of Vertical Zigzag:
• The number of weft yarn is double to the number of warp yarn in
the repeat.
• Straight draft is used for this weave.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 66

Herring Bone Twill
• This twill shows an appearance of
Herring Bone.
• It has the similarity with the zigzag
twill up to half of the repeat but
while changing the direction the
interlacement becomes quite
opposite to that of the zigzag twill.
• Normally Straight draft is used.
Uses: Suiting, over coating,
ornamented fabrics.

Types of Herring Bone Design:

a. Horizontal Herring Bone
b. Vertical Herring Bone

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 67

Horizontal Herring Bone Twill
• Basic twill runs along warp.
• The twill direction reverses upon the warp yarn after the basic twill.
• The no. of warp yarn is double to the no. of warp yarn of basic twill and
the no. of weft yarn is same as basic twill weave.
• Straight or broken draft is used to make horizontal herring bone twill.
• This can be made from any type of regular basic twill weave.
• The horizontal stripe effect is produced on the surface of the fabric.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 68

Vertical Herring Bone Twill
• Basic twill runs along weft.
• The twill direction reverses upon
the weft yarn after the basic twill.
• The no. of weft yarn is double to
the no. of weft yarn of basic twill
and the no. of warp yarn is same
as basic twill weave.
• Straight draft is used to make
vertical herring bone twill.
• This can be made from any type of
regular basic twill weave.
• The vertical stripe effect is
produced on the surface of the
fabric.
Uses: Coats, Suits and ornamented
fabrics.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 69
Diamond Design:
• It is constructed on the principle of zigzag twill.
• Diamond design is the combination of horizontal
and vertical zigzag twill.
• This design is symmetrical on both axis.
• No. of both warp and weft yarns are double to
the basic twill in the repeat.
• It can be divided into 4 equal parts.
• It can be divided into two equal parts along
horizontal and vertical axis i.e. diamonds form
symmetry across their vertical axis and
horizontal axis.
• Point draft is used to produce this design.
• The number of warp and weft are equal in the
repeat size.
• Because of large number of ends in the repeat,
Dobby loom is generally referred.
Uses: Towel, bed cover, table cover, pillow cover
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 70
etc.
Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 71
Diaper Design
• It is constructed on the principle of
herringbone twill.
• It is found by the combination of horizontal
and vertical herringbone twill.
• Straight or broken draft is used to make
diamond design.
• No. of both warp and weft yarns are double to
the basic twill in the repeat.
• The number of warp and weft are equal in the
repeat size.
• It can be divided into two equal parts along
diagonal axis.
• Diapers from symmetry across their diagonal
axis.
Uses: Towel, Table cloth, Bed cover, Pillow
cover, handy bag, many other household fabrics.

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 72

Fuad Ahmed, Lecturer, NITER 73