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109 views33 pagesGots Version 6.0
Uploaded by
Ashok LakshmananCopyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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©
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GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD
PODLOGY © SOGAL RESPONSIBILITY
GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE
STANDARD (GOTS)
VERSION 6.0
01 MARCH 2020
(EFFECTIVE DATE: 01 MARCH 2021)
Global Standard gemeinnitzige GmbH
Rotebiiistr, 102 - 70178 Stuttgart - Germany
www global-standard.org TABLE OF CONTENTS
TABLE OF CONTENTS 2
1 PRINCIPLES 3
1.1 AIMOF THE STANDARD 3
1.2 SCOPE AND STRUCTURE 3
1.3. SCOPE CERTIFICATE 3
1.4 LABEL GRADES AND LABELLING. 3
1.8 REFERENCE DOCUMENTS, 4
2 CRITERIA 5
2.1 REQUIREMENTS FOR ORGANIC FIBRE PRODUCTION 5
2.2 REQUIREMENTS FOR FIBRE MATERIAL COMPOSITION 5
2.3 _ GENERAL REQUIREMENTS FOR CHEMICAL INPUTS IN ALL PROCESSING
‘STAGES 5
24 SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS AND TEST PARAMETERS 10
3 SOCIAL CRITERIA, 21
3.1 SCOPE a1
32 EMPLOYMENT IS FREELY CHOSEN 22
3.3. FREEDOM OF ASSOCIATION AND COLLECTIVE BARGAINING 2
3.4 CHILD LABOUR SHALL NOT BE USED, 22
3.5 NO DISCRIMINATION IS PRACTISED. 23
3.6 OCCUPATIONAL HEALTH AND SAFETY (OHS), 23
3.7 NO HARASSMENT AND VIOLENCE 24
3.8 REMUNERATION AND ASSESSMENT OF LIVING WAGE GAP. 26
3.9 WORKING TIME 25
3.10 NO PRECARIOUS EMPLOYMENT IS PROVIDED. 25
3.11. MIGRANT WORKERS 25
3.12 SOCIAL COMPLIANCE MANAGEMENT. 26
4 QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM, 26
4.1 AUDITING OF PROCESSING, MANUFACTURING AND TRADING STAGES 26
4.2 TESTING OF TECHNICAL QUALITY PARAMETERS AND RESIDUES 27
5 ETHICAL BUSINESS BEHAVIOUR, ar
6 ANNEX. 28
61 SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS FOR TEXTILE PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS 28
62 SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS FOR FOOD CONTACT TEXTILES 29
DEFINITIONS, 30
8 LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS. 31
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 + Page 2/33, 1 PRINCIPLES
4.1 AIM OF THE STANDARD
‘The aim of this Standard is to define requirements to ensure organic stalus of textiles, from harvesting
of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in,
‘order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer.
4.2 SCOPE AND STRUCTURE
‘This Standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of all
textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibres. The final products may include, but are
not limited to fibre products, yams, fabrics, garments, fashion textile accessories (carried or worn), textile
toys, home textiles, mattresses and bedding products as wall as textile personal care products.
‘The Standard focuses on compulsory criteria only except where an exception from this rule is expressly
stated. Some of the criteria are compliance requirements for the entire facility where GOTS products,
are processed (2.4.10. Environmental management, 2.4.11. Wastewater treatment, 3. Minimum social
criteria, 4.1. Auditing of processing, manufacturing and trading stages and 5. Ethical Business
Behaviour), whereas the others are criteria relevant for the specific products subject to certification (all
‘ther criteria of Section 2 and Section 4,2. of this Standard). GOTS criteria or the local legal
requirements, whichever are higher, shall be followed.
{As itis to date technically nearly impossible to produce any textiles in an industrial way without the use
Cf chemical inputs, the approach Is to define criteria for low impact and low residual natural and synthetic,
‘chemical inputs (such as dyestuffs, auxiliaries and finishes) accepted for textiles produced and labelled
according to this Standard.
‘The Standard sets requirements on working and social conditions that are equivalent to those of leading
social sustainability standards.
‘As the Standard is also applied and monitored for entities in countries with developed and effectively
‘applied social and labour legislation and collective agreements between employers and trade unions
that conform with the universal standards of the Intemational Labour Organisation (ILO), exceptions to
monitoring, verification and audit requirements may be made. Conditions for making exceptions are
defined in the Implementation Manual ofthis Standard,
1.3. SCOPE CERTIFICATE
Processors, manufacturers, traders and retailers that have demonstrated their abilty to comply with the
relevant GOTS criteria in the corresponding certification procedure to an Approved Certifier receive a
GOTS Scope Certificate issued in accordance with the ‘Policy and Template for issuing Scope
Certificates (SCs). Accordingly, they are considered Certified Entities. Scope Certificates list the
products/product categories that the Certified Entities can offer in compliance with the Standard as well
as the processing, manufacturing and trading activities that are qualified under the scope of certification.
‘Subcontractors and their relevant processing and manufacturing steps become listed on the Scope
Certificate of the Cortfied Entity assigning the certification,
1.4 LABEL GRADES AND LABELLING
‘The Standard provides for a subdivision into two label-grades. The only differentiation for subdivision is,
the minimum percentage of ‘organic’ ‘organic - in conversion’ material in the certified product. Labelling
‘of products as ‘in conversion’ is only possible, if the Standard, on which the certification of the fibre
production is based, permits such labelling forthe fibre in question.
Only textile goods (finished oF intermediate) produced in compliance with this Standard by a Certified
Entity and certified by an Approved Cortiior (= GOTS Goods) may be sold, labelled or represented as:
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 + Page 3/33, (a)"organic” or “organic - in conversion"
(b)"made with (x %) organic materials" or "made with (x %) organic - in conversion
materials”
and the GOTS logo (or the Immediate reference “Global Organic Textile Standard’ or the short
form "GOTS")
Labelling shall be completed by a reference to the Approved Gertifer who has certified the GOTS Goods
(e.g. certifier's name andlor logo) and the license number of the Cortfied Ently (as provided by the
Approved Certifie).
In all cases the GOTS labeling can only be applied to the producl/packaging by a Certified Entity and
shall have been approved by the Certified Entity Approved Certfier in advance ofits application.
Labelling of GOTS Goods sold in retail is mandatory.
Application of GOTS labelling shail be in compliance with the ‘Licensing and Labelling Guide’
4.5 REFERENCE DOCUMENTS,
Beside this Standard the Global Standard gGmbH has released the following official reference
documents that provide for binding provisions and requirements for Approved Certifiers and users of
the GOTS:
1.5.1. Manual for the Implementation of the Global Organic Textile Standard:
provides interpretations and clarifications for specific criteria of GOTS. Its purpose is to prevent
any inconsistent, inappropriate or incorrect interpretation of the Standard. It further contains
requirements and detailed specifications for the application of the GOTS and the implementation
of the related quality assurance system for cerifiers.
1.5.2 Licensing and Labelling Guide:
specifies the licensing conditions for companies participating in the GOTS certification system
and defines the corresponding license fees. It further sets the requirements for the use of the
GOTS registered trademarks.
1.5.3. Labelling Release for GOTS Goods:
provides a release form for labelling of GOTS Goods
1.5.4 Labelling Release for GOTS Additives:
Provides a release form for labeling of GOTS Additives
1.5.5 Policy and Template for issuing Scope Certificates (SCs):
provides detailed instructions with regard to policies, layout, format and text for issuing Scope
Certificates.
1.5.6 Policy and Template for issuing Transaction Certificates (TCs):
provides detailed instructions with regard to policies, layout, format and text for issuing
Transaction Certificates
1.5.7 Policy and Template for issuing Letters of Approval:
provides detailed instructions with regard to policies, layout, format and text for issuing Letters
of Approval for colourants and textile auxiliaries which are approved as inputs for application in
the processing of GOTS certified textile products
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 + Page 4/33, 1.5.8 Approval Procedure and Requirements for Certification Bodies:
specifies the approval and monitoring procedures and sets out the related requirements for
Certitication Bodies to implement the GOTS certification and quality assurance system
1.5.9 Policy for Change or Migration of Certifier:
specifies the steps to be undertaken by Approved Certifier and Certified Entity in case of change
‘or migration of certfier.
2 CRITERIA
2.1 REQUIREMENTS FOR ORGANIC FIBRE PRODUCTION
Approved are natural fibres that are certified ‘organic’ or ‘organic - in conversion’ according to any
standard approved in the IFOAM Family of Standards for the relevant scope of production (crop or
animal production), such as Regulation (EC) 834/2007, USDA National Organic Program (NOP),
APEDA's National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP), China Organic Standard GB/ 719630.
‘The certification body shall have a valid and recognised accreditation for the standard it certifies against,
Recognised accreditations are ISO 17085 accreditation, NOP accreditation and |FOAM accreditation,
Corttying of products as ‘organic - in conversion’ is only possible, if the standard on which the
certification of the fibre production is based, permits such a certification for the fibre in question.
Conversion status of fibres shall be stated as specified in Section 1.4. ofthis Standard,
22 REQUIREMENTS FOR FIBRE MATERIAL COMPOSITION
2.2.1 Products sold, labelled or represented as “organic” or “organic-in conversion
No less than 95% (295%) of the fibre content of the products - excluding accessories - shall be of
Certified organic origin or from ‘in conversion’ period (Identified and labelled as specified in Sections
1.4 and 2.1 of this Standard). Up to 5% (55%) of the fibre content of the products may be made of
non-organic fibres that are listed under ‘additional fibre materials in Section 2.4.9, The percentage
figures refer to the weight of the fibre content of the products at normal conditions. No fibres shall be
used which originate from production projects with regard to which there is evidence of a persistent
patter of gross violations of the ILO core labour norms (as far as these are relevant for agriculture)
andior of animal welfare principles (including Mulasing) or irefutable evidence of a persistent pattem
of land grabbing methods,
2.2.2 Products sold, labelled or represented as "made with x % organic materials" or
“made with x % organic-in conversion materials"
No less than 70% (270%) of the fibre content of the products - excluding accessories - shall be of
certified organic origin or from in conversion’ period (identified and labelled as specified in Sections 1.4
and 2.1 of this Standard). Up to 30% (530%) of the fibre content of the products may be made of non-
‘organic fibres that are listed under ‘adaitional fibre materials’ in Section 2.4.9. The percentage figures
refer to the weight ofthe fisre content ofthe products at normal conditions. No fibres shall be used which
originate from production projects with regard to which there is evidence of a persistent pattem of gross
violations of the ILO core labour norms (as far as these are relevant for agriculture) andlor of animal
welfare principles (including Mulesing) or irrefutable evidence of a persistent pattern of land grabbing
methods,
23 GENERAL REQUIREMENTS FOR CHEMICAL INPUTS IN ALL
PROCESSING STAGES
2.3.1 Prohibited and restricted inputs
The following table lists chemical inputs that may (potentially) be used in conventional textile processing
but that are explicily banned or restricted for environmental andlor toxicological reasons in all
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 + Page 5/33, processing stages of GOS Goods, It is not to be seen as a comprehensive and inclusive list ofall
‘chemical inputs that are prohibited or restricted under GOTS. Prohibition or restriction of substance
{groups or individual substances that are not explicitly listed in this Section may further result from
Section 2.3.2 ‘Requirements related to hazards and toxicity’ or from other criteria of this Standard.
‘Aromatic andlor halogenated | Prohibited
solvents
Flame retardants Prohibited are
~ Chlorinated flame retardants
- Brominated flame retardants
- Phosphate based flame retardants, listed in Manual
= Flame retardants containing Antimony or Antimony Trioxide
= Disodium octaborate
Chlorinated benzenes and
toluenes
Prohibited
‘Chlorophenols (including their
salts and esters)
Prohibited (euch as mono, di ti tetra and penta chlorophenols)
‘Complexing agents and
surfactants
Prohibited are:
‘all APs and APEOs (,e, NP, OP, NPEO, OPEO, APEOs
terminated with functional groups, APEO-polymers)
+ EDTA, DTPA, NTA
LAS, aMES:
Endocrine disruptors
Prohibited
Formaldehyde and other short
chain aldehydes
Prohibited are Inputs that contain or generate formaldehyde or
other short-chain aldehydes (like glyoxal) during designated
application
‘Glycol Derivatives
Prohibited are the glycol derivatives listed in the Manual
Genetically modified
Prohibited are all inputs that:
‘organisms (GMO) ‘+ contain GMO
‘+ contain enzymes derived from GMO
‘* are made from GMO raw materials (e.g. starch, surfactants or|
oils from GM plants)
+ GMO based traceability markers
Heavy metals Prohibited, inputs shall be ‘heavy metal ree” Impurities shall nal
exceed the limit’ values as defined in annex 8B,
Exceptions valid for dyes and pigments are set in Sections 2.4.6.
and 2.4.7,
Toputs (e.g. azo dyes and
pigments) releasing
carcinogenic arylamine
‘compounds (MAK Ill, category
1,2,3,4)
Prohibited
Tnputs containing functional
nanoparticles (= particles with
a size < 100 nm)
Proibited
Inputs with halogen containing
compounds
Prohibited are Inputs that contain > 1% permanent AOX.
Exceptions valid for pigments are set in Section 2.4.7.
‘Organotin compounds
Prohibited (such as DBT, DMT, DOT, DPHT, OPT, MBT, MMT,
MOT, MPhT, TBT, TCyHT, TeBT, TeET, TMT, TOT, TPhT, TPT)
Plasticizers
Prohibited are:
PAH, phthalates and esters of phthalic acid, Bisphenol A and all
other plasticizers with endocrine disrupting potential
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 + Page 6/33, Per- and Polyfluorinated Prohibited. (such as PFCA (incl. PFOA), PFSA (incl. PFOS)
‘compounds (PFC) ETOH, PENA, PFHpA, PFDA)
‘Quaternary ammonium Prohibited we
compounds DTDMAC, DSDMAC and DHTDMAC
Chlorinated Paraffins
‘Short-chain chlorinated Prohibited
paraffins (SCCPs, Crus)
Medium-chain chlorinated | prohibited
paraffins (MCPs, Cye7)
Cyclic Siloxanes (D4, D5, D6) | Prohibited are inputs that shall lead to = 1000 ppm of cyclic]
siloxanes in processed GOTS Goods.
‘Substances and preparations | Prohibited
that are prohibited for
application in textiles with a
recognised internationally or a
nationally valid legal character
‘Substances and preparations | The same resticlions apply, provided the substances and
having restrictions in usage | preparations are not already prohibited or have stricter restrictions|
for application in textiles with | criteria according to this Standard, Substances and preparations
‘a recognised internationally or| listed in regulation EC 552/2009 (amending regulation EC
nationally legal character 1907/2006 (REACH), annex XVII), and the ‘candidate list of
substances of very high concern fr authorisation’ of the
European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) are prohibited.
‘Microplastics Prohibited are:
Intentionally added synthetic microplastcs.
Tn-can preservatives In Prohibited are:
‘chemical inputs In-can preservatives which do not meet the requirements of
Sections 2.3.1 and 2.3.2
Except, allowed are:
Biocidal active substance(s) that comply with European biocidal
products regulation (BPR 528/2012) and listed on the Union lst of|
BPR for product type PTO6 (preservatives for products during
storage):
https://echa.europa.eulenyinformation-on-chemicalsybioci
aclive-subslances
2.3.2 Requirements related to hazards and toxi
Inputs which are classified [Prohibited are:
with specific hazard
statements (risk phrases)
related to health hazards | stalements, if applied as direct input
- substances which are classified with any of the following hazard
- preparations which are classified with any of the following hazard
statements,
- preparations which contain at least one substance which is
classified with any of the following hazard statements
in accordance with the codification system of the Global
Harmonized System (GHS) as published by the United
Nations, annex 3:
H300__ Fatal if swallowed
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 + Page 7/33, F310 Fatal in contact with skin
H330 Fatal inhaled
H340 May cause genetic defects
H341_ Suspected of causing genetic defects
H350 May cause cancer
H351 Suspected of causing cancer
H360 May damage fertility or the unborn child
H361 Suspected of damaging fertlity or the unborn child
H370 Causes damage to organs
1371 May cause damage to organs
H372 Causes damage to organs through prolonged or
repeated exposure
For inputs assessed on basis of GHS, where the implementation
system does not provide for the codified H-statements, the
Corresponding hazard classes and categories of GHS, annex 3 apply.
For inputs assessed according to the ‘isk phrase’ classification
(Directive 87/548EEC amended and appealed by Regulation EC
127212008) the equivalent risk phrases apply
Taputs which are classified Prohibited are:
with specific hazard - substances which are classified with any of the following
statements /risk phrases hazard statements / risk phrases, if applied as direct input
Fated so environmental |. preparations which are classified with any of the following hazard
hazards
statements / risk phrases
2a) in accordance with the codification system ofthe
Global Harmonized System (GHS) as published by the United
Nations, annex 3:
1400: Very toxic to aquatic life
H410: Very toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects
H411: Toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects
11420: Harms public health and the environment by destroying
‘ozone in the upper atmosphere
H433: Harmful to terrestrial vertebrates
Taputs which are Bio- Prohibited are substances, if applied as direct input, and
accumulative and not rapidly | preparations classified with H413: ‘May cause long-lasting
degradable effects to aquatic life" (respective R53) that are both, ‘bio-
jaccumulative"” and not rapidly degradable?!
7) All substances or preparations ate considered as (potentially) bio-accumulatve, if BO (= bie-concentation
factor) 500 o, if absent, log Kee (= logarithm ofthe n-octanol water partion coeticlent) 2 4
2) Testing requirement: >70% OECD 301A [284] or equivalent testing method according to footnote 4 of the table
below, excep! test methods related to eliminabilly (OECD 302), In those cases where only BOD and COD data
are availabe the input is considered 'rapily degradable’ when the ratio of BODSICOD is = 0.5
3) This criterion isnot applicable to preparations whose very low solubility in water prevents their bioaccumulation
(e.g pigment preparations)
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 + Page 8/33, All preparations applied shall further comply with the following requirements:
Oral Toxicity 7 Use > 2000 maiko
‘Aquatic Toxicity 7 Tin, ECs, Toso> Tmt
Relation of biodegradability /eliminabl Only allowed. i
aquatic toxicity < 70% and > 100 mg
> 70% and > 10 mail
> 95% and > 1 mgl
1) Performing new animal tests to determine unknown LOsa values in the course of the GOTS assessment
procedure for inputs (refer to Section 2.3.3) is prohibited, Instead, alternative methods (e.g, Acute Toxicity
Estimates (ATE); conclusions on analogy from similar products; validated structure-aciviy relationships:
Calculation trom available data of substances contained; expert judgment; in vitro tests) shall be used to
determine unknown values.
2) Substances and preparations, such as alkalis and acids that fall to meet this requirement because of their pH
value only, are exempt from this requirement,
8) Performing new fish and daphnia tests to determine unknown LCs / ECs» values in the course of the GOTS.
‘assessment procedure for inputs is prohibited, Instead, alternative methods such as Acute Toxiclty Estimates
(ATE); validated structure-actvy relaonships; conclusion on analogy from similar products; calculation fram
‘available data of substances contained; isn egg test (embryo toxicity test (FET) n vitro test; 1C50 algae; OECD
201 [72h] shall be used to determine unknown valves,
4) Accepted tost methods: OECD 301A, OECD 301E, ISO 7827, OECD 302A, ISO 9887, OECD 2028, ISO 9888,
‘of OECD 303A; alternatively, to meet the 70% level a preparation tested with one ofthe methods OECD 203A,
oF ISO 11733 a percentage degradation of atleast 80% shall be shown - of tested with one of the methods
ECD 3018, ISO 8439, OFCD 301C, OECD 3026, OECD 3010, ISO 10707, OECD 301F, SO 9408, 1S
10708 or ISO 14583, a percentage degradation of atleast 60% shall be shown. To meet the 95% level, tested
with any of the mentioned methods, a percentage degradation of 95% shall be shown. Testing duration with
teach method is 28 days.
2.3.3 Assessment of chemical inputs
All chemical inputs intended to be used to process GOTS Goods are subject to approval by a GOTS
‘Approved Certfor prior to their usage. Preparations shall have been evaluated and their trade names
registered on approved lists prior to their usage by a GOTS Approved Certfier who is authorised by the
Global Standard gGmbH for the specific accreditation scope: “Approval of textile auxiliary agents
(chemical inputs) on positive lists" (Scope 4),
Approval shall be applied by the applicable chemical producer or supplier of the preparations who
receive conformity documents (Letters of Approval) issued by the authorised ceriflers and containing
the trade names of applied preparations that have been found to be compliant with the criteria of this,
Standard,
For all chemical inputs (substances and preparations), a Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS), prepared
according to an applicable recognised norm or directive shall be available. The Approved Certifiers are
requested, where appropriate and felt necessary, to include further sources of information (such as
‘additional toxicological and environmental data on specific components of the auxliary agents, test
reports, independent lab analysis and traceability checks of ingredients, no intentional use declarations,
sources of data for hazard & toxicity, etc.) in the assessment,
Certified Entities shall have copies of vali Letters of Approval on hand listing all preparations they are
using in processing and manufacturing GOTS Goods as verification proof that all colorants and textile
auxiliaries used for GOTS Goods are actually approved.
2.3.4 Product Stewardship of chemical inputs
Chemical formulators shall implement appropriate and effective product stewardship practices.
‘Adequate systems for product testing and quality assurance shall be in place.
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 + Page 9/33, 2.3.5 Environment, Health and Safety for Chemical Suppliers
Chemical formulators shall undergo environmental management system and safety audit of their
premises. On-site inspection shall be performed for the frst year and every 3 year of granted Letter of
Approval or Standard Revision, whichever is earlier.
Following GOTS criteria shall be included in the audit of a chemical supplier:
+ Section 2.4.10
‘+ Section 2.4.11, (see Manual for COD requirements).
© Section 3.6
Above criteria is applicable to whole facility for the whole year.
Atall stages through the chemical manufacturing and distribution, adequate measures for Separation
‘and Identification shall be established. It shall be ensured that GOTS Approved inputs and other
chemicals are not commingled and GOTS Approved inputs are not contaminated by contact with
prohibited substances.
24 SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS AND TEST PARAMETERS,
2.4.1. Separation and Identification
Al stages through the supply chain shall be established so as to ensure that organic and conventional
fibres are not commingled and that organic fibres and GOTS Goods are not contaminated by contact
with prohibited substances.
All organic raw materials and GOTS goods shall be clearly labelled and identified as such at all stages
(of the supply chain.
242 Spinning
Allowed are additives which meet the basic requirements as set in Sections 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only. Any
paraffin products used shall be fully refined with a limited value for residual oil of 0.5%. Machine oils that
may come in contact with GOTS goods shall be heavy motal-roe.
‘Synthetic fbres, which are to be dissolved at a later processing stage, are not allowed to be used
2.4.3 Sizing and weaving / knitting
Allowed sizing agents include starch, starch derivatives, other natural substances and CMC
(carboxymethylcellulose).
‘Synthetic sizes which meet the basic requirements as set in Sections 2.9.1. and 2.3.2. may be used for
no more than 25% of the total sizing in combination with natural substances only, calculated for the
‘chemical without water. In case such synthetic sizes are recycled/recovered in the wastewater from
desizing process with a ratio >80% they may be used without limitation in the total sizing but shall stil
meet the requirements as set in Sactions 2.3.1 and 2.3.2.
‘Machine oils that may come in contact with GOTS goods shall be heavy metal-free. Other inputs shal
be derived from natural materials only.
2.4.4 Non-woven manufacture
Allowed non-woven manufacturing processing includes only mechanical compaction, webbing and
‘entangling such as hydro entanglement.
24.5 Pre-treatment and other wet processing stages
[Ammonia treatment Prohibited
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 « Page 10/33 Exception: allowed for after-reatment of wool, i performed in closed
system.
Bleaches (On basis of oxygen only (peroxides, ozone, ete ). Approved Certifiers
may grant exceptions for non-cotton fibre products where oxygen
bleaches are not sufficiently functional, provided they meet the basic
requirements as set in Sections 2.3.1. and 2.3.2.
Boiling, kiering, washing | Allowed are auxliaries that meat the basic requirements as set in
Sections 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only. Washing detergents shall not contain
Phosphates.
‘Chlorination of wools
Prohibited
Desizing
[Allowed are GMO free enzymatic desizing and other auxiliaries that
meet the basic requirements as sat in Sections 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only
‘Mechanical/thermal
treatments
Allowed
[Allowed with auxiliaries that meat the basic requirements as set in
Sections 2.3.1. and 2.3.2, only. Alkali shall be recycled,
‘Optical brightening
[Allowed are optical brightening agents (OBAs) that meet all criteria for
the selection of dyes and auxiliaries as set in Section 2.4.6. Dyeing
only,
[Selection of dyes and
auxiliaries:
[Other, not explicitly listed [Allowed are mechanical / thermal pre-treatment methods and such with
pretreatment methods _| the use of substances on basis of natural materials.
246 Dyeing
[Allowed are natural dyes, synthetic dyes, pigments and auxiliaries that
meet the requirements as set in Sections 2.3.1 and 2.3.2, only,
Prohibited are (disperse) dyes classified as sensitizing / allergenic.
Prohibited are colourants classified as carcinogenic or suspected
[carcinogenic (H350 / H351).
Prohibited are dyes containing heavy metals as an integral part of the
[dye molecule (e.g. heavy metal dyes, certain reactive dyes) under
[consideration of the following exceptions:
- General exception for Iron
- Specific exception for copper: permitted up to 5% by weight in blue,
Jgreen and turquoise dyestuffs.
The use of natural dyes and auxiliaries that are derived from a
threatened species listed on the Red List of the IUCN is prohibited.
247 Printing
[Selection of dyes,
pigments and auxiliaries
[Allowed are dyes, pigments and auxiliaries that meet the requirements
Jas set in Sections 2.3.1 and 2.3.2 only.
Prohibited are (disperse) dyes classified as sensitizing / allergenic.
Prohibited are colourants classified as carcinogenic or suspected
[carcinogenic (H350 / H361).
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 « Page 11/33 Flock printing is allowed with non-GMO natural and regenerated fibres if
the fibres used meet the limit values for residues as listed in Section
2.4.16.
[Ammonia is allowed as a required buffer in pigment printing pastes.
Prohibited are dyes and pigments containing heavy metals as an integral
part of the dye molecule (e.g. heavy metal dyes, certain reactive dyes)
Under consideration of the following exceptions:
= General exception for Iron
- Specific exception for copper: permitted up to 5% per weight in blue,
gfeen and turquoise dyestuffs and pigments only,
]wile in general inputs that contain > 1% permanent AOX are
prohibited, exceptionally for yellow, green and violet pigments the limit is
5%.
Prohibited are printing methods using aromatic solvents, phthalates or
[chlorinated plastics (e.g. PVC).
The use of natural dyes and auxiliaries that are derived from a
threatened species listed on the Red List of the IUCN is prohibited.
2.48 Finishing and Manufacturing
‘Selection of finishing
‘methods and auxiliaries
‘Allowed are mechanical, thermal and other physical finishing methods.
Allowed are natural and synthetic inputs that meet the basic
requirements as set in Sections 2.3.1 and 2.3.2 only.
Prohibited in general is the use of synthetic inputs for anti-microbial
finishing (including biocides), coating, fling and stiffening, lustring and
matting as well as weighting.
Prohibited are garment finishing methods that are considered to be
harmful to the workers (such as sand blasting of denim),
[Machine oils
Tn Finishing and Manufacturing, Machine oils that may come in contact
with GOTS goods shall be heavy metal-free.
Fibre materials accepted
for the remaining non-
organic balance of the
product's material
‘composition (max. 5%
according to Section 2.2.1
and max. 30% according to |All additional materials shall meet the limit values for residues as listed in
Section 2.2.2.)
2.4.9. Requirements for additional fibre materials and accessories
2.49.1 Requirements for additional fibre materials
The additional fibre materials may be mixed with the organic fibres to the
fabric or used in certain details of the product.
Blending organic and conventional fibres of the same type in the same
product is not permitted.
Section 2.4.16.
Allowed are:
Individually or in combination as a sum total up to 30% (S30%)
a) non-GMO conventional natural vegetable fibres,
b)_non-GMO conventional animal fibres.
©) Lyocell or protein-based fibres derived from non-GMO sources and
from certified organic raw materials or pre- or post-consumer waste
or from raw materials certified according to a programme that
verifies compliance with sustainable management principles
dd) recycled synthetic (polymer) fbras from pre- or post-consumer
waste: only polyester, polyamide, polypropylene, elastomutiester
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 « Page 12/33 ‘elasterell-p) and polyurethane (elastane)
e) PLA (polylactic acid) fibre produced from non-GMO bio-mass
Individually or in combination as a sum total up to 10% (s10%)
a) regenerated fibres lke lyocell, viscose or modal: raw materials used
shall be non-GMO
b) virgin synthetic (polymer) fibres: only polyamide, polypropylene,
elastomuttiester (elasterell-p) and polyurethane (elastane)
©) stainless steel fibres and mineral fibres
Prohibited are:
a) conventional cotton
b) conventional angora hair fibre
©) virgin polyester
d)_ acrylic
) asbestos, carbon and sitver fibres
) any other not explicitly permitted fibres
g)_mulesed woo!
2.49.2 Requirements for Accessories
Material in general ‘Allowed are:
(valid for appliqué, borders, | a) natural materials including biotic material (such as (organic or
buckles, buttons and press-| conventional) natural fre, wood, leather, hom, bone, shell) and
studs, cords, edgings, rnon-biotic material (such as minerals, metals, stone)
clastic bands and yarns, |b) regenerated and synthetic materials
Cibraidry yams, ater
and cos Systems,
chet laps used or
fein, hatanes ace,
ting iaye ace, | 2) can fires
labels (heat-transfer/ a .
aahesive eae! COTS),
interning pockets seam
Siang sowng tends
Souler pads passing or |g
Sncergemort tine
separ an ry Om ot
Prohibited is the use of:
a) asbestos
reated) fibres
chromium (e.g. as component of a metal or in leather tanning,
except that stainless steel is permitted)
2) nickel (e.g. as component of a metal, except that stainless steel is
permitted)
‘material from threatened animals, plant and timber
9). Chlorinated plastics (e.g. PVC)
oper andany ober, not | tras usd for aosnavoes chal met he appicale lt
Filings, suing Tole tors ae vad, he aerial equremans o Seclons 721
accessories).
If non-textile material is used only natural materials are permitted.
Natural materials shall be from certified organic (in conversion)
production in case such certification is applicable for the kind of
material used (e.g. for plant-based materials such as grain spelt or
‘animal based-materials such as feathers).
Latex foam used as filing or stuffing shall be made from certified
‘organic {in conversion) latex or from latex certified according to a
program that verifies compliance with sustainable forestry
management principles.
[Supports and frames ‘The requirements as specified in the row ‘material in general’ apply.
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 Page 13/33 Latex foam used in mattresses shall be made from cerified organic (in
conversion) latex or from latex certified according to a program that
verifies compliance with sustainable forestry management principles.
Polyurethane foams are not permitted in mattresses or other textile
bedding products.
[Non-Slip Floor Covering | Backing materials used shall be of cerlified natural origin and salisty
requirements of Section 2.3 of the GOTS Standard. Inorganic
materials (such as dolomite) may be used in conjunction with this
backing material, if they are of natural origin and satisty Section 2.3 of
the GOTS Standard
2.4.10 Environmental management
In addition to GOTS criteria, all companies shall assure compliance with the applicable national and
local legal environmental requirements applicable to their processing/manufacturing stages (including
those referring to emissions to air, wastewater discharge as well as disposal of waste and sludge).
They shall have a written environmental policy and procedures in place to allow monitoring and
improving relevant environmental performances in their facilities. The environmental policy shall be
shared with all employees. Depending on the processing/manufacturing stages, the available data and
procedures need to include:
‘2)_person responsible
)_ data on energy and water resources and their consumption per kg of textile output
()_ target goals and procedures to reduce energy and water consumption per kg of textile output
4d) monitoring of waste and discharges
8) procedures to minimise waste and discharges
4) procedures to follow in case of waste and pollution incidents
g) documentation of staff training in the conservation of water and energy, proper handling
and minimal use of chemicals and their correct disposal
h)_ programme for improvement
‘Adequate inventory of GOTS appraved chemical inputs should be maintained for processing GOTS
Goods. Wet processing units shall keep full records of the use of chemicals, eneray, water consumption
and wastewater treatment, including the disposal of sludge. In particular, they shall continuously
measure and monitor wastewater temperature, wastewater pH and sediment quantities. On-site waste
burning or uncontrolled waste landfiling shall not be undertaken
Certified Entities are required to collect information on sources of greenhouse gas emissions (GHG)
within their own operations and identify means for reduction for each source.
2.4.11 Wastewater treatment
Wastewater from all wet processing units shall be treated in an internal or external functional wastewater
treatment plant before discharged to environment. The applicable national and local legal requirements,
for wastewater treatment - including limit values with regard to pH, temperature, TOC, BOD, COD, colour
removal, residues of (chemical) pollutants and discharge routes - shall be fuliled. Minimum criteria is
local / national law if GOTS requirements are lower.
Wastewater discharges to the environment shall not exceed 20 g COD/kg of procassed textile (output).
For scouring greasy wool an exceptional limit of 45 g COD/kg applies,
Treatment of wastewater from water retting of bast fbres shall achieve a reduction of COD (or TOC) of
at least 95% for hemp fibres and 75% for all other bast fibres.
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 Page 14/33 Where legal limits for pH and temperature are not defined for wastewater discharges to surface waters,
discharge shall have a pH between 6 and 9 (unless the pH of the receiving water is outside this range)
‘and a temperature of less than 35 °C (unless the temperature of the receiving water is above this value).
Wastewater analyses shall be performed and documented periodically at normal operating capacity.
2.4.12 Storage, packaging and transport
2.4.12.1 B2B trade of GOTS Goods
Organic textile products shall be stored and transported in such a manner as to prevent contamination
by prohibited substances and commingling with conventional products or substitution of the contents.
‘Transport means and routes shall be documented.
In cases where pesticides/biocides are mandated for use due to national or regional rules or law, they
may be used in Storerooms / Transport, but they shall comply with the applicable international or national
‘organic production standard. Wooden pallets used in storage and transport activities are exempt from
this requirement.
2.4.42.2 Retail (B2C) trade of GOTS Goods
‘Single use virgin plastic hangers are prohibited in retail packaging of GOTS Goods. Recycled plastic
hangers may be used.
Final products with complete GOTS labelling can be stored / transported together with conventional
products of similar type with positive assurance that there can be no substitution of products.
‘Synthetic packaging material shall not contain chlorinated plastics (e.g. PVC). The use of plastic
packaging materials should be minimized.
Paper or cardboard used in packaging material for the retail ade of GOTS Goods (incl. labelling tems
such as hang tags or swing tags) shall be recycled from pre- or post-consumer waste or certified
‘according to a program that verifies compliance with sustainable forestry management principles.
Textile fibre materials used for packaging, shall follow one of these three conditions
2) are certified organic (as explained in Section 2,2.1) and meet RSI. criteria as in Section 2.4.15
) are certified organic -in- conversion (as explained in Section 2.2.2) and meet RSL criteria as in
Section 2.4.15
©) meet criteria for accepted additional fibres (Section 2.4.9.1) without limitation on percentages
and meet criteria as in Section 2.4.16.
2.4.13 Record keeping & internal quality assurance
{All operational procedures and practices shall be supported by effective documented control systems
‘and records that enable to trace:
4) the origin, nature and quantities of organic and additional (raw) materials, accessories as well
as inputs which have been delivered to the unit
b) the flow of goods within the unit (processing/manufacturing steps performed, recipes used and
stock quantities)
¢) the composition of manufactured products
4d) the nature, quantities and consignees of GOTS Goods which have left the unit
2) any other information that may be required for the purposes of proper inspection of the operation
Records relevant to the inspection shall be kept for at least five years.
Certified Entities purchasing organic fibres shall receive and maintain transaction certificates
certificates of inspection), issued by a recognised certfier and certified in accordance with the criteria of
‘Section 2.1 for the whole quantity purchased.
Certified Enttios purchasing GOTS Goods shall receive and maintain GOTS transaction certificates,
issued by an Approved Certifier for the whole quantity of GOTS Goods purchased, in accordance with
the current Policy and Template for issuing Transaction Certificates (TCs). Certified Entities purchasing
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 Page 15/33 ‘organic fiores shall receive and maintain Scope Certificates and / or Transaction Certificates (where
applicable) of the producer and trader(s) (if applicable) for the Organic Production Standard for the whole
‘quantity purchased. All further conditions as prescribed in the latest version of the ‘Policy and Template
for issuing Transaction Certificates (TCs)' shall be followed,
The consignee of any organic fibres and GOTS Goods shall check the integrily of the packaging or
container and verify the origin and nature of the certified products from the information contained in the
product marking and corresponding documentation (e.g. invoice, bill of lading, transaction certificate)
upon receipt ofthe certified products,
A product whose GOTS compliant status is in doubt may only be put into processing or packaging after
elimination of that doubt.
Organic flbres and GOTS Goods shall clearly be identified as such on all corresponding invoices.
Cortitied Entitios shall have invoices, delivery notes as well as copies of valid Letters of Approval at
hand listing all preparations they are using in processing and manufacturing GOTS Goods as verification
proof that all colourants and textile auxiliaries used for GOTS Goods are actually approved.
‘The Certfiod Entity shall have concluded a contract with each subcontractor stipulating the conditions
of the relevant job work assigned and remains finally responsible for compliance with all criteria ofthis,
‘Standard
Certified Entities shall collect, collate and share non-commercial information related to impact
measurement if and as required by GOTS.
2.4.14 Technical quality parameters
‘Any final product labelled according to this Standard shall comply with the following technical quality
parameters.
Rubbing fesiness, cry sf ISO 105 x12
Rubbing fastness, wet 2 150-105 X72
Perspiration fastness, alkaline and acidic
‘Shade Change 34 Iso 105 £04
Staining on Multfibre 34
Porspiration fastness for fibre blends
Shade Change 3 Io 105 £04
Staining on Mult-fibre 3
ight fastness 38 150-105 BOZ
jimensional change after washing at 40°C (30 °C for
animal fibre material and blends thereof)
Knitted/hosiery: max. +8% — |1S0 6330
Woven: max. 43%
This criterion is only valid for the garment sector.
“Saliva fastness 6 BVL 6 82.92.5
(only for textiles for babies) DIN §3160-1
Washing fastness when washed at 40 °C
Shade Change 34 10 105 Co6 AIM
Staining on Multifibre 34
Washing fastness of animal fibre material and Blends
thereof when washed at 30°C Iso 105 cos ats|
‘Shade Change a4 without use of stee! balls
Staining on Multefibre 34
GOTS Version 6.0 » March 2020 + Page 16/33 2.4.15: Limit values for residues in GOTS Goods
Even if produced in compliance with this Standard, textiles may carry traces of residues (e.g. due to
unavoidable contamination), The following table lists the corresponding limit values for GOTS Goods:
‘Alkyiphenol (ethoxylates)
NP, OP, HpP, PeP, NPEO, OPEO sum
For NP, OP: Extraction, derwvatsation,
GC/MS or HPLCINS
wey
releasing azo dyes MAK Ill, category 2omaKg EN 14362-1 and “3; (HPLCIGOMS)
os
ze oa TA
