Boeing 747 Overhead (Version 1)
Boeing 747 Overhead (Version 1)
747 – 400 / 8
By Frederic RENQUET
Intro
Due to the lack of information available on the internet, I decided to compel this document to bundle
all of my personal research on this topic. In the second part of this document, you will also find how I
constructed my Boeing 747 overhead section. At regular intervals, I mention the modification I made
to the original Boeing design to fit my personal needs in my home cockpit. In the same line, I also
mention my own thoughts on improvements or on subjects which I will need to take a closer look to
if I will make an update on my overhead section. (This sections are marked in italic.)
To situate and orientate the reader of this document, I will already state that the simulator is P3D
driven for visuals and PSX driven for logics. The hardware components are linked to the pc’s by
means of OpenCockpit in-, output, master and expansion, servo and axis cards. To get from SIOC
variables to PSX, I am using the PSXSEECON scripts. The panels are not backlit, for now, as I don’t
require this momentary, but it is under consideration for a future update. However the panels are so
fabricated that they can easily be backlit. Besides the Korry replicas and the annunciators, all
hardware can easily be found on the internet with suppliers like Conrad, Distrilec, Allekabels,
Aliexpress, Banggoods, etc. The Korry replicas, annunciators, and many other items (like starter
knobs, fire handles, etc) are my own design and are printed with a 3d printer.
As my simulator is setup in a spare bedroom, and because of the double purpose of the room, the
overhead can be folded upwards, to conserve space in the room itself (especially because it is located
next to a doorway, and I don’t want anyone banging into my simulator 😉 ). My home simulator
originated as a fixed base B747 dual seating personal trainer, but due to lack of space I reduced the
MIP (FDS supplied) to a single seat trainer. Meaning, the F/O section of the MIP, glareshield and
hardware are left out. However are the overhead and pedestal sections are fully developed.
Due to the same reason, my cockpit does not have a shell (anymore) and the main visuals are
restricted to one screen only (mainly forward looking, but can be panned in all directions by a
hatswitch on the control column). I have the possibility to add a second screen on the main visuals,
but this would be only for entertaining purposes.
My own research took place over the last couple of years. Big helps hereby were the PSX manual,
PMDG manual, many pictures and hours of google (not always with the same level of result).
If there are any questions you would like to see answers, which are not contained or handled in this
document, feel free to pop the question to [email protected]. If your question is deriving from an
illustration, please mention the illustration number in your question.
At last, I want to thank all other builders for sharing their experiences and knowledges on various
websites and forums.
Kind regards,
Frederic
Intro ......................................................................................................................................................... 2
Index ........................................................................................................................................................ 3
Overhead and panel information ............................................................................................................ 5
1. Overhead section ........................................................................................................................ 5
2. Overhead panels.......................................................................................................................... 7
3. Panel details ................................................................................................................................ 9
1.3.1. Cockpit light control panel .............................................................................................. 9
1.3.2. Hydraulic system control panel ..................................................................................... 10
1.3.3. Electric system control panel ........................................................................................ 11
1.3.4. IRS control panel............................................................................................................ 13
1.3.5. EEC panel ....................................................................................................................... 13
1.3.6. ELT control panel ........................................................................................................... 14
1.3.7. Landing/Runway light control panel ............................................................................. 14
1.3.8. Anti-Ice and Window Control panel .............................................................................. 15
1.3.9. Fuel pump control panel ............................................................................................... 16
1.3.10. Engine start and Fuel jettison control panel ................................................................. 17
1.3.11. Fire control panel .......................................................................................................... 18
1.3.12. Miscellaneous control panel ......................................................................................... 19
1.3.13. Navigation light control panel ....................................................................................... 20
1.3.14. Pneumatic pack control panel ....................................................................................... 21
1.3.15. Air handling and Temperature control panel ................................................................ 22
1.3.16. Pressure control panel................................................................................................... 23
1.3.17. Yaw Damper and Pax Oxygen control panel ................................................................. 24
1.3.18. Cargo Condition Air Flow control panel ........................................................................ 25
1.3.19. Headphone and mic boom panel .................................................................................. 25
Fabrication information / guidelines ..................................................................................................... 26
1. 3D printing / CNC ....................................................................................................................... 26
2. Base and subbase layer details.................................................................................................. 27
3. Painting and engraving .............................................................................................................. 29
4. Printed elements ....................................................................................................................... 29
4.1. Korry replicas ......................................................................................................................... 29
4.2. Annunciators ......................................................................................................................... 31
4.3. Starter switches ..................................................................................................................... 32
From the drawing above you can conclude the overhead is in total 1565mm long. The forward
section (containing the panels) measures 620 mm, the aft section (containing the circuit breakers and
maintenance panels) take up the remaining space. In my simulator setup, I don’t include the aft
section of the overhead. This due to space issues.
The forward overhead section, starts 318mm behind the window at a height of 1281mm above the
cockpit floor. Due to a little mess up in my design phase, my overhead starts at 303mm from the
(imaginary) window. The complete overhead section is inclined at appr. 15° upward. If you would
construct the aft overhead sections, you would end up at a height of 1752mm above the floor (not
counting the 38mm height difference of the cockpit floor).
This also brings the main visual screen closer and sits just at the end of the FDS glareshield. This
avoids the need of an extension of the glareshield and closes up everything rather nicely. This also
causes that the viewpoint setup of the software will be adjusted to match the actual view.
2. Overhead panels
On the panels, there is no clear information among the width and length. Most of the measurements
are compiled from measures found of panels which can be bought by various vendors. I based my
designs on the measurements I found of the Open Cockpit overhead panels, as I initially intended to
use this panels.
The panels can be allocated in 3 rows. A port row, containing the electrics, hydraulics, EEC, IRS,
cockpit lights and ELT. A central row, containing the landing/runway lights, fuel, engine start, fire
controls. And a starboard row, containing the navigation lights, pack, a/c, pneumatic controls.
The port and starboard row panels have a width of appr. 223mm and the central panels have a width
of 292mm. Based on this information we can assume that the overhead panel box must be appr.
740mm wide, taking in 1mm separation between the panels individually and 1mm separation on the
sides.
If we take the same separation as in the lateral division, we find that the overhead panel box must be
appr. 630mm long, matching the dimensions found in Illustration 1.
To allow access to the panels I made it possible to open the panel box. My panels are mounted on 2
aluminium T-shaped and 2 aluminium L-shaped bars, which run in the longitudinal orientation. To
allow easy removal, if necessary, I fixed the panels by means of four M4 screws and nuts. See further
for more information.
1
I am not sure about why this level of detailed dimensions is necessary, but I believe that it comes from the conversion ‘inches to mm’.
In the next couple of pages I will guide you through most of the details of the overhead panels.
Please note that I use my own Korry replica design and I did not include Korry guards in my design, as
they are very difficult to find at a reasonable price.
All measurements are taken from the centre axis (x and y), unless clearly stated otherwise. All panels
have the same build up. They are composed of 3 layers white acrylic plastic plates (2mm thickness).
The layers are held together with M3 ball head bolts and screws.
The panels are fixed to my structure by means of M4 flat head bolts and screws. I only draw the
outlines of this on the first drawing (as they are standard for all the panels, except where otherwise
specified).
The electric system control panel has an extra layer of 2mm in the upper left corner where the
standby power switch is located
Please note that on the ELT control panel, I added a LED to know when the ELT is activated. This is
purely decorative.
Illustration 20 - Picture representation 'Anti-ice and Window control panel' (source: OpenCockpits)
Illustration 24 - Picture representation 'Engine start and Fuel jettison control panel' (source: OpenCockpits)
Illustration 25- Personal 'Engine start and Fuel jettison control panel' design
Illustration 34 - Picture representation 'Air handling and Temperature control panel' (source: OpenCockpits)
Illustration 38 - Picture representation 'Yaw damper and PAX oxygen control panel' (source: OpenCockpits)
Illustration 39 - Personal 'Yaw damper and PAX oxygen control panel' design
Illustration 40 - Picture representation 'Cargo Condition Air Flow Rate control panel' (source: OpenCockpits)
Illustration 41 - Personal 'Cargo Condition Air Flow Rate control panel' design
Illustration 43 - Ender3D conversion (waste plate installed) Illustration 44 - Ender3D conversion (ready for milling)
To hold down the acrylic plate I used a combination of clip-ons and 2,9mm woodscrews. The
woodscrews are positioned in the exact location where the later ball head screws are installed in the
panel (after pre-drilling the acrylic).
As a 3D printer is designed to build things up and not really to cut parts away, you cannot use the
normal 3D generating software to create the GCODE for the milling. So I transferred my drawings
from AutoCAD into Fusion 360, where I could write the GCODE more easily using some YouTube’s
help3.
As the panels consist out of 3 layers of acrylic, each layer has to be cut separately. And so, for each
layer, a new GCODE had to be written. In the earlier pages, I only showed the details over the top
plates. The details on the base and subbase panels are fairly the same for each panel. In the next
pages, you can find the cut-outs which are to be made in these layers of the panel.
To perform the cuts I used 2 different sets of drilling bits. The first cut was made with a 2mm drilling
bit and afterwards the cut was repeated with a 3mm drilling bit. With this way of working, I found
2
Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3202418
3
YouTube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJxqXk-wdJw&t=750s
TOPPLATE
BASEPLATE
SUBBASE PLATE
Illustration 45 - Sketch 1
BASEPLATE
Annunciator: Rotary selector: Korry:
H: 12mm Ø20mm 30,5 x 30,5mm
L: 24mm
SUBBASE PLATE
Annunciator: Rotary selector: Korry:
H: 16mm Ø10mm 26 x 26mm
L: 30mm
Illustration 46 - Sketch 2
The other equipment, like starter switches, pull up switches, small pushbuttons, etc, are mounted in
the same manner, depending on the specific equipment used. In my setup, the starter switches and
pushbutton switches, have a mounting diameter of 8mm in the subbase and an opening of 20mm
diameter in the baseplate. The pull-up switch has a mounting diameter of 7mm and a baseplate
opening of 20mm diameter.
When the paint is dry, the panel is dismantled again and the top plate is engraved using a 0,8mm
engravement spherical needle. The engravement itself runs only 0,1mm deep into the panel, so only
the paint is scratched off. To correct any misfortunes, I used my wife’s nail cleaning mini-mill, to
correct where necessary.
4. Printed elements
4.1. Korry replicas
The Korry replicas I use are homemade and use a big ON-OFF pushbutton switch and two (2) 3mm
white LEDs. The Korry switch itself is composed out of 3 printed elements: a housing for the switch, a
head for the LED lights and indicators, and a ring to secure the Korry firmly to the panel.
The switch and LEDs are independent, meaning the switch and LEDs have to be synchronised with
some software help. The switches are connected to the INPUT (Open Cockpits) board, the LEDs to the
OUTPUT (Open Cockpits) board. Each LED has its own resistor and all LEDs are mounted in a parallel
sequence.
As you can see from the panel details section, the Korry housing is mounted through the subbase
panel and is held fast with the ring below the panel. I only installed the ring after the Korry was
almost fully assembled and only the indicator plates had to be installed.
Prior installing the head, the LEDs must be inserted and soldered without the resistors as the
resistors are located outside of the housing. This makes that the wires attached to the LEDs must be
led through the holes in the bottom of the housing around the switch.
The indicator heads I use for this Korry replicas are purchased NKK inserts. These indicator heads can
be opened and an indicator sheet can be inserted. The opening of the Korry head is made so that
these can fit in perfectly without any glue and they can easily be removed by means of a flat end
screwdriver. To avoid light diffusion on the indicator, I placed a H-shaped insert in the bottom of the
indicator insert, and I painted the outsides of the inserts black. This avoids that if the upper LED is
activated the lower part of the indicator is lit as well.
Due to the dens packing of Korry switches, e.g. the fuel pump control panel, some housings are
printed together per 2 or 4 housings. This is done just to have the Korry switches on the correct
position in the panel.
Like the Korry LEDs, these LEDs have their own resistor connected to them (see above for product
information), but they are bound together to one input and one output line.
In order to keep the switch working when closed (NC), I had to remove the lower connector from the
original. On the bottom view, you can see that this connector has to be glued to the new design in
order to make a connection between the newly designed starter knob and the original switch
housing.
The upper and lower part of the starter knob are glued together after the switch is inserted in the
panel. The LED wiring runs through the 3mm hole in the middle of the knob and the cap closes the
knob. The cap is printed transparently.
The switch base slides in the holder plate, this I have done to have a more easy access to the shaft of
the switch and also to be able to fix the rotary switch firmly by its original nut.
Illustration 56 - Base rotary holder (top view) Illustration 57 - Base rotary holder (side view)
Illustration 58 - Holder plate (top view) Illustration 59 - Holder plate (front view)
The handle houses three (3) 3mm LED lights, fixed on the LED holder plate. Each LED has its own
resistor and all 3 LEDs are connected to a mutual in-/outline, which runs through the shaft of the
handle. The covers are initially printed with transparent PLA. The outside of the handle is painted
black, and the inside is coloured with a red permanent marker. If you would use red paint, I presume
that the lights will be blacked out too much. The number marking on top of the cover is also coloured
with the red marker, after the black paint has been removed from the inscription. All inscriptions are
printed in the cover and are painted white. Later consideration, I found that on some fire panels the
lower part of the handle is painted in the same colour as the panel itself.
The plate itself is fixed to the panel by the panels ball head screw bolts. To secure everything nice
and tight, I also added glue to the plate and the baseplate of the ‘pressure control panel’.
5
https://www.banggood.com/6X-Towerpro-MG90S-Metal-Gear-RC-Micro-Servo-p-1072260.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
The indicator plate is printed with black PLA and is painted with matt black paint. The needles and
indications are painted white. After the plate has been attached to the ‘pressure control panel’, the
top covers are installed. To create the glass look, I inserted (and glued) a fine plastic sheet, cut out of
a food preservation bin, between the top covers and the top plate of the panel.
The lamp is held in the housing by the head. The head of the MAP lamp is screwed down with 3
M3x6mm set screws. Inside the head, I placed a thin milky shade plastic cover. The lamp is driven by
a transformer, which is also mounted inside the overhead section. It should be possible to regulate
the voltage (and the intensity of the light) via a potentiometer, which is located on the captain’s side
glareshield control board, but I still have to connect this, and test this out.
I incorporated a dimmer switch which dims the two (2) LEDs inside the compass house if required.
The dimmer is mounted in the front plate of the compass. The compass concept contains 5 printed
elements; the housing itself, the front cover, the holding plate, the compass rose and the mounting
bracket. The compass rose is printed in 3 parts (upper, middle and lower part) and has a small
magnet in place, which can be used to calibrate the compass rose using a hall effect sensor.
Illustration 78 - Compass house (front view) Illustration 79 - Compass house (side view)
The compass house is left open at the backside. The compass is also the forward part of my central
pillar design/construction, which will later be added, to hide the cables coming and going to the
overhead section.
The holding plate slides in the compass housing, this is done for easy access when the compass is
installed and requires maintenance. At the last moment, I decided to screw fast the holding plate, this
because the plate could move to easily.
8 Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3597509
Note that on beam nr 3 there are 2 cut outs made, each 30mm wide
and 4mm deep) these cut outs are necessary for later supports. On
top of the nr 3-beam, there is a secondary beam to level out the T-
shaped profiles to this nr 3-beam. This additional beam will have 2
Illustration 92 - nr 3 top beam cut outs
slots cut out to house these profiles.
1 2 x 560mm
2 2 x 686mm
3 1 x 740mm
4 2 x 334mm
5 2 x 39mm
6 2 x 42mm
The extensions pots ‘5A & 5B’ – ‘6A & 6B’ each have an 8mm diameter hole drilled through them.
These holes will later house the bolts to attach the panel box to the overhead box. But these bolts
will also be the axis around which the panel box will open for maintenance. These holes are drilled
27mm above the bottom of the piece.
Nr 5’s have a slot cut out at the side in longitudinal orientation to house the L-shape profile. The cut
out section measures 9mm in height and 1mm in depth. The nr 6’s have a similar slot cut out, but in
the middle of the top, to house the T-shape profiles. This slot is 13mm deep.
The aft liner can be completed by 1 sheet of 8mm MDF or with 2 sheets of 4mm MDF. The aft liner
measures 748mm in length and 56mm in height. On this liner the locks 9 will be installed at regular
intervals.
9 Locks: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32730303749.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dUi7RO5
My overhead box is foldable, to conserve space, in the room while I am not using my flightdeck. The
elements needed to fold the overhead are not incorporated in this document, nor on the drawings.
This box is constructed using 27 x 27mm wood beams, screwed together. The outside is covered with
8mm MDF wood sheets (to increase rigidity). The box is painted in a Boeing-like cream colour. The
box measures in total 988mm by 738mm.
1 2 x 705mm
2 3 x 918mm
3 2 x 257mm
4A&D 2 x 65mm
4B&C 2 x 60mm
5 4 x 42mm
6 4 x 42mm
7 2 x 96mm
The nr 4 beams have each an 8mm diameter hole drilled through them, this to connect the swivel
axis of the panel box to the overhead box. The beams are connected to the forward transversal (2A).
Illustration 101 - Overhead box construction - forward transversal (2A) (front view)
In this forward transversal (2A) 2 cut outs have been made to align the longitudinal beams (4A & 4B)
of the panel box. These cut outs run over the entire beams width and have a depth of 9mm.
The middle transversal (2B) beam has, similar to the forward one (2A), 2 cut
outs to align the longitudinal beams of the panel box. These cut outs are the
same as on the forward one.
Next to this cut out, the side pot supports (5A to 5D) are connected to this
transversal.
Illustration 103 - Side pot
supports #5
Illustration 104 - Overhead box construction - aft transversal (2C) (front view)
The aft transversal (2C) has no cut outs for the panel box nr 4 beams, as the beams of the panel box
don’t run so far back. However there are 2 cut outs made to secure the panel box supports (7A & 7B).
These supports run 2mm into the aft transversal beam (see drawing below). The panel box support
nr 7, which are connected to the aft transversal, have a centre cut out of 13mm deep. This to
accommodate the panel box T-shape profiles.
Illustration 105 - Overhead box construction - aft transversal (2C) (top view)
The side covers are made of 8mm MDF wood sheets. Prior installing the outside side covers, the
internal construction of the side pots must be installed (see further). This is done because otherwise
the access would be very limited.
The opening for the audio connections for the headphones and mic boom are not marked on the
drawings. These openings depend on where the user wants to have his connection.
8 2 x 95mm
9 2 x 23mm
10 2 x 63mm
11 2 x 45mm
12 1 x 918mm
13 2 x 15mm
As mentioned earlier, the side covers of the overhead box are made off 8mm MDF wood sheets, so is
the covers of the side pots interior. Except for the forward cover, this cover is made off 12mm MDF
wood, because of its supporting function. I have installed 3 hinges on this forward cover, to be able
to rotate the overhead box (incl. panel box) upwards.
The aft interior cover (310mm x 103mm) houses the overhead aural speaker. Before installing this
cover, a cut out has to be made and the speaker plates have to be inserted (eventually with the
speakers). Along the cut out a section of 10mm has to be removed (depth 2mm) to allow the speaker
plate to be sunk into to interior cover. The same milling is done on the bottom of the speaker plate.
Illustration 113 - Side pot covers - aft cover (speaker plate cut out)
When I constructed the inside section of the speaker plate I didn’t had a 3D printer at my disposal. If I
would reconstruct this part, I would print the inside section, rather than to cut and drill it.