INTRODUCTION

The importance of beautification to the mankind has been known since the pre historic time
and the desire to look beautiful and healthy has been developing in the society. In recent
times fitness, good health, looks, way of presenting oneself are being counted as one of
qualities of personality, now a day people are also being judged on these factors. Hence today
there is a necessity and desirable requirement to give more attention to the looks and
beautification for social acceptance as well as professional success, which is also
overemphasized by the media. On the other hand life span of an average individual has being
increased and factors such as sedentary lifestyle and dietary excesses associated with genetic
determination, pregnancy and the aging process, contribute to alterations of the face and body
that result in the loss of the individual‘s self-image.[1] The cosmetic surgery industry is
dynamic and growth levels reached record height in 2006, the total UK cosmetic surgery was
worth an estimated L 528.9 million, a rise of 47.4% on 2005. In recent times cosmetic surgery
market is booming due to the development of various different technologies especially due to
non-surgical technique‘s being developed. In such technique the time required for recovery is
very less comparatively to that of undergoing surgical procedures and thus the patient or
consumer can return to his work in shorter span of time. One of mankind‘s greatest problems
is the lack of communication. The basis of successful plastic surgery operation is the
consultation. The possible and likely results should be described to the patient as exactly and
wholly as possible. Particularly it is of great importance to give a rational advice to the patient
who desires a minimally invasive procedure in order to deal with the process of natural and
normal aging. The need of scientific measures responds to the requests of all people involved
in the demonstration of objective results in comparison to an initial picture. The development
of non-surgical or bio-physical non-invasive methods allows to count on the crucial
physiological properties of the skin, such as 1) Moisturization 2) Barrier function 3)
Mechanical properties, 4) Micro-circulation 5) Skin colour and even to characterize its
topography. Maintenance of skin its improvement recovery of the skin can be evaluated
during time, by registering all variations induced by a product application or by performing
an aesthetic treatment. In order to maintain high scientific standards in such evaluations,
adequate protocols and statistical tests must be designed and applied. [2-4] Hence now a day‘s
people are moving towards the non-invasive procedure rather than undergoing surgical
procedure.

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017. 643

 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
As popularly said ―beauty is in the eyes of the beholder‖, however money is the important
factor for any industry, most often money goes in the pockets of the corporate cosmeceutical
shareholders, corporations and their paid entourage of star dermatologists. The cosmetics

industry has grown beyond from just focusing on hot pink lipsticks and lash-extending
mascara. Cosmeceuticals claim to reduce the skin imperfections rather than just covering up
imperfections. Men and women are hurrying to cosmeceuticals counters to anti-wrinkle
creams, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Botox and the like.[5]

HISTORY l
The health-giving property of cosmetics was first identified by the Egyptians. The cosmetics
were first used by Egyptians in 4000 B.C whose records are being available. [16] Up to the
beginning of 19th century, there was no clear separation between cosmetics and
pharmaceuticals, the separation occurred when the first modern pharmaceutical industry was
developed. In 1980‘s there was a rapid expansion of the cosmeceuticals due to hydroxy acids
(natural fruit acids) used as exfoliants against wrinkles. In 1961 the term cosmeceuticals was
coined by the Raymond Reed, founding member of the United States Society of Cosmetic
Chemists. Albert Kligman in 1971 developed a formula to improve the appearance of UV
damaged and wrinkled skin, using retinoic acid thereby reactivated interest of the people in
cosmeceuticals.[17] World-renowned dermatologist Dr. Kligman made a long-lasting
contribution to the world of skincare by discovering that topical retinoic acid (or tretinoin)
can be used for both an acne and wrinkle treatment. Kligman may be described as the father
of cosmeceuticals, a term he popularized. [18] but cosmeceuticals first appeared in the world
market in 1996.[19]

The several cosmetic jars have been unearthed by the Archaeologists whose hieroglyphics say
"good for sight" and "stops bleeding". A medical papyrus "Ebers," which was written in 1600
BC, makes frequent reference to a number of cosmeceuticals-type products. The favorite was
the one prepared using honey and milk that claimed to help cure skin diseases, while different
product mentioned in the Ebers, claiming to "expel wrinkles from the face", were made from
frankincense, balantine oil, rush oil and wax in equal proportions.[20]

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

644
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
A dark powder knows as Kohl was being applied around the eyes in an almond shape with a
stick. Kohl was made of different colors of copper ore, lead, ochre, ash, burnt almonds and
oxidized copper. Red clay mixed with water was the choice of make-up, for the cheeks and
lips. Henna was used to paint the finger-nails yellow or orange. Egg whites, gum Arabic,
beeswax and gelatin were used to create nail color in ancient China. As time moved on
cultures were fused and the Greeks began to move into cosmetics history and accept the use
of Egyptian cosmetics. They did it just simply to look good and not for spiritual purposes.
Centuries later, as the Romans moved in they started the use of cosmetic formulas for other
purposes, such as creating aphrodisiacs. They started to use blood mixed sheep fat for nail
polish and instead of just using the traditional body oils created by Egyptians, they took baths
in mud and crocodile excrement.[21]
NEED FOR STUDY ON COSMECEUTIALS
Now a day it‘s not just the interest of people but certainly has become the need of the people
to maintain a youthful & healthy appearance. Ultimately as the population in the world of the
median age increases there is rise in the demand of the cosmeceuticals. Over 560 million
people in India are in the age group of 18-35 years. As median age increases, the market is
going to boom, especially growing number of women in the workforce feeling the hassle to
maintain a youthful and vibrant appearance. This resulted into a rapid growth of
cosmeceuticals in the natural personal care industry.

As there is constantly growth in global market a lot of money is playing in hands of people at
the same there is increase in the population with higher qualification and knowledge thus this
class of population has become more beauty-conscious and thus is spending a high amount of
their earning in maintaining a youthful appearance i.e. in cosmeceuticals. Thus
cosmeceuticals market has become one of the fastest growing markets throughout the globe.
Development in technology and invention of new ingredients has further contributed to the
progress in the commercialization of cosmeceuticals products world-wide. The market that
reached to the mark of US$ 27.2 Billion in 2010 is likely to augment at a rapid pace in the
coming years with anti-aging skin care taking the top spot in revenue patterns.

The cosmeceuticals demand in US is estimated to grow by 7.4% per year to $8.2 Billion in
2012. The skin care segment will account for 63% of all cosmeceuticals product demand
through 2012 and is expected to grow to $22.1Billion in worldwide sales by 2013.[22]

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

645
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences

The graphical representation of sales in cosmeceuticals

Source-data monitoring analysi.[25]

According to new research report ―Global Cosmeceuticals Market Analysis‖, the global
cosmeceuticals market offers enormous potential in the Asian countries, such as China, Japan
and India, which are also set to magnetize major players in future. Though the market is at the
emerging stage in India and China, there remains an untouched large population, with the
desire to look young and fair. A mark in the global cosmetics market has already been made
by the Japan and its position in the cosmeceuticals (having quasi drug status) segment is
effectively improving.

Through in-depth and prudent analysis of the developments taking place at the global level, it
is observed that skin care and hair care cosmeceuticals dominates the market presently.
However, injectable and various other major sub-segments, such as tooth whitening, lip
protection, etc are also garnering considerable amount of profits for cosmetic companies. In
addition, research into new ingredients such as stem cell and peptides for skin care-based
cosmetics is projected to modify the market supremacy in the days to come.

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

646
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences

. The pie diagram of various cosmeceutical product depending upon their demand

The concept propounded by Dr. Albert Kligman states that ―The Cosmeceuticals are topical
agents that are distributed across a broad spectrum of materials lying somewhere between
pure cosmetics they partake of both categories‖.[23] In India very slight research is carried out
to prove the use and benefits of cosmeceuticals. At global level many companies, such as
Procter and Gamble Biersdorf and L‘Oreal, are advancing and understanding the structure of
skin and role of cosmeceuticals. An extremely strict research standard has been set by these
company and they evaluate cosmeceuticals in the same manner as drugs. None of this work is
being done in academic dermatology. [24] Tiny research has been carried out to prove the
effectiveness, efficacy and safety of these products and a lot of questions remain unanswered.
It is primarily viewed as marketing efforts to enhance the use of these products.

US Sales of Cosmeceuticals Skin Care Products (In US Million)

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

647
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences

Effect of Sun radiation on Skin

Effect of ROS (Reactive oxygen species) on skin

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation are portion of the electromagnetic spectrum that lies between X
rays and visible light, i.e., between 40-400 nm (30-3 eV). The UV spectrum is mainly divided
into five spectrum, i.e. Vacuum UV (40-190 nm), Far UV (190-220 nm), Ultraviolet C [UVC]
(220290nm), Ultraviolet B [UVB] (290-320), and Ultraviolet A [UVA] (320-400 nm). UVA
can be further divided into two sub-section i.e. UVA I (340-400 nm) and UVA II (320-340
nm).[26] Solar UVR at the earth's surface comprises roughly about 95-98% of UVA and 2-5%
of UVB, all the UVC being absorbed by stratospheric ozone. The frequency of ultraviolet
type B or UVB is mainly responsible for erythema of sunburn and suntan of the skin. Once
human skin is exposed to UVB, it is absorbed by DNA of keratinocyte. [27] Its high energy
radiation, which is dependent on its wavelength, causes not only sunburn but also skin ageing,
skin cancer, etc.[28] To avoid the harmful effects of repeated exposure to ultraviolet radiation,
personal protection, Personal measures are needed. The interaction of UVR with skin surface
causes biochemical changes in collagen, elastin and connective tissues, there by resulting into
break down of collagen and elastin fibers of the skin by enzymes collagenase and elastate that
are responsible for maintaining the skin firmness and elasticity, and skin deterioration start to
occur.[29] As skin becomes less elastic, it gradually becomes drier and looks wrinkled.

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

648
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences

A schematic illustration of UV-induced inflammation, collagen loss and tissue damage.

CLASSES OF COSMECEUTICAL Major Classes of Cosmeceuticals are as follows

Sunscreens
These are considered as OTC drugs: sun protection factor must be proven by in-vitro and
invivo studies. These are regarded by dermatologists as the single most important formulation
that should be applied daily. These are the products formulated to meet individual
preferences, such as scent and feel, can improve compliance.

Retinoids
These are the natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A.

Drugs: retinoic acid (tretinoin). Adapalene and tazarotene Substantial scientific data confirm
their anti-aging and anti-acne benefits. Retinoic acid is considered by dermatologists to be the
anti-aging gold standard. These are available only through a doctor‘s prescription.
Cosmeceuticals: retinol, retinaldyehyde, retinylpropionale, retinylpalmitale. In many cases,
bioavailability and activity are unproven when formulated.

Moisturizer
Moisturizer includes emollients, occlusive‘s, and humectants. They are considered to be the
most useful product for the management of various skin conditions (e.g. atopic dermatitis,
psoriasis, pruriws, aging skin).

Antioxydants
These Include vitamins A, C and E: alpha liopic acid: Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q-10):
idebenone: polyphenols (e.g. catechins, flavenoids): kinetin: botanicals (e.g. teas, grapeseed,
grape skins and stems, coífeeberry). They enhance the skin‘s natural antioxidant protection
system with topical application. They reduce free-radical damage by blocking the oxidative
processes in cells. Antioxidants inhibit inflammation that causes collagen depletion. They
protect against photo damage and skin cancer. They do reverse signs of photo aging.
www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.
649
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences

Hydroxy’ Acids (alpha. beta, poly)

These include glycolic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, pyruvic acid and lactic acid.
They can improve depigmentation and skin texture. They can induce actual structural changes
in skin, so the potential exists for regulatory scrutiny.

Lightening Agents
At best, depigmenting agents can achieve modest levels of efficacy Hydroquinone is
considered to be the most effective. They are presently under re-evaluation by the US FDA.
Sunscreen use is required due to drug-induced photosensitivity, other examples include kojic
acid, glabridin (licorice extract), arbutin, azelaic acid, n-acetyl glucosamine and vitamin C.

Botanicals /Plant Extracts

They have experienced a rapid rise due to the popularity of ―natural‖ compounds. These
represent the largest group of additives found in marketed products. They have limited
scientific data to support efficacy and safety.

Epidermal Growth Factors

These are the naturally occurring chemicals in the body that influence cellular proliferation
and differentiation. The potential applications include regeneration of damaged or aged skin.

Proteins/ Peptides
They can trigger skin repair as needed. There are some indications that they can reduce the
signs of aging and accelerate the skin‘s healing processes.

Other vitamines and Minérales

Recently, the market is swamped with too many cosmeceuticals products like anti wrinkle
creams, medicated lotions, hair growth stimulants, antidandruff shampoos, eye wrinkle
creams, collagen injections, etc.[30]

There are three primary categories of ingredients in cosmeceuticals that have the capability
to modify the biologic function of the skin
1. Botanicals,
2. Retinoids and
3. Hydroxy Acids.
Each offers its own unique benefits.
www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.
650
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences

Botanical extracts: including teas, soy, pomegranate, date, grape seed, horse chestnut,
German chamomile, curcumin, comfrey, allantoin and aloe, these are natural plant-based
ingredients that can contribute to generate refreshing, aromatic formulas to soothe, hydrate,
and balance the skin. Some are designed to soothe and calm inflamed or irritated skin.
Botanicals are typically not the primary ingredient of a cosmeceutical but are combined with
Retinoids and Hydroxy Acids to create effective skin care products.

Retinoids: Retinoids include Vitamin A and its derivatives, which act as antioxidants and
help the skin in its natural processes of circulation, exfoliation and cellular regeneration.
Retinoids can reverse the signs of aging, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, tightening and
smoothing the skin surface and restoring a youthful glow.

Hydroxy Acids: They are often referred to as ―fruit acids‖ and are further classified into two
sub-categories according to their molecular structure: 1) alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and 2)
beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). AHAs such as Glycolic acid, Citric acid, Lactic acid, Malic acid,
Mandelic acid and Tartaric acid, are the uppermost anti-aging skin care ingredients today.
Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) act by normalizing cell turnover in the top layers of the skin
(i.e. epidermis), and by boosting the formation of normal and healthy skin. They also result in
the diminishing of fine lines and wrinkles by helping in reversing the sun damage to the
dermis (the deeper layers of the skin). The most commonly used beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) is
salicylic acid, which works well as an exfoliant and is helpful in the treatment of acne and dry
skin.[31]

Figure 6. Some topical cosmeceuticals ingredient touting anti-aging claims

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

651
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
SKIN CARE COSMECEUTICALS
Cosmetics and skin care products have become the part of everyday grooming of the people.
It is essential to Protect and preserve the skin for good health. Our skin, which is the largest
organ of the body acts by separating and protecting the internal environment from the
external one. UV radiations coming from the sunlight penetrate the skin and accelerated
damage due to free radicals, which consist of wrinkling, inflammation and hyper
pigmentation. The collagen and elastin fibres of the skin due to prolonged exposure to UV
radiation are broken down by enzymes collagenase and elastate and thus the texture of skin
deteriorates. Collagen and elastin are responsible for maintaining the elasticity and integrity
of the skin. Numerous plant extracts and antioxidants that are obtained from natural sources
are able to prevent the aging and also improving the appearance of the skin.[32]

The most important botanicals pertaining to dermatologic uses, such as cosmeceuticals,

include teas, soy, pomegranate, date, grape seed, Pycnogenol, horse chestnut, German
chamomile, curcumin, comfrey, allantoin, and aloe; of all these only green and black tea, soy,
pomegranate, and date have been studied to the extent that clinical trials for the treatment of
parameters of extrinsic aging have been published.[33] Potential cosmeceuticals agents in this
category include green tea, grape seed extract, vitamin E and beta-carotene.

The following ingredients are most commonly used in cosmeceuticals.

Boswellic acids
These are obtained from Boswellia serrate and the key function is to inhibit the enzymes
responsible for inflammation (5-lipoxygenase) and damage of the skin.[34] Tetrahydro-
curcuminoids

These are obtained from white (colour free) curcuminoids of turmeric (curcuma longa)
carnosic acid, cosmarinic acid, ursolic acid from rosemary extract. Rosemarimus officinalis
as antioxidants are the other compounds which are used to facilitate the tissue damage
and restoring the healthy status of skin.[34]

Hydroxy acids
Hydroxy acids are organic carboxylic acids classified into alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and
beta hydroxyl acids (BHAs) polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids according to their molecular
structure. Many are derived from natural sources and are often referred to as fruit acids. The
various hydroxy acids are found in most of the marketed cosmetic preparation but they are
www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.
652
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
used in very low concentration. Hydroxy acids are found to be present in anti-aging
formulations, moisturizers, and peels, and in treatment products to improve
hyperpigmentation and acne.

Vitamin A
Vitamin A (all trans retinol) in significant amounts is present in the human epidermis. The
metabolism and transport of vitamin A can be damaged by both UVA and UVB. This may
lead to deficiency of vitamin A in the skin.[42] A small amount of retinol in the body gets
converted to all trans retinoic acid also called tretinoin (active form) and rest of the retinol is
converted into retinyl ester (storage form).

Vitamin A exists in three isomeric forms i.e. alpha, beta, and gamma. Among which beta
form found to be more active than alpha and gamma isomer. The deficiency of beta form may
lead to dry rough skin. In the 1970s the introduction of synthetic analogs of vitamin A
brought new interest into their biological activity, especially on the skin. Since then, vitamin
A along with its derivatives have been beneficial in the treatment of many skin disorders,
including ichthyosis, acne, and psoriasis. Abundant amount of research has concentrated on
its use as an anti-aging compound as well as its use for other cutaneous disorders. Vitamin E
The physiological function of vitamin E, if applied dermally is to contribute to the antioxidant
defence of the skin, due to its tendency to absorb UV light in the solar spectrum region that is
mainly responsible for most of the harmful biologic effects of the sun.[47] Vitamin E inhibits
lipid peroxidation in tissues, cells and it is a good antioxidant. It aids to improve the
performance of UV filters, moisturizes and softens skin. Vitamin E is the important lipid
soluble antioxidant of the body and if oxidized, vitamin E can be regenerated back to its
reduced form by L ascorbic acid.

In topical OTC (over the counter) products Vitamin E as alphatocopherol or tocopherol

acetate is used in concentration of 1-5%. Alphatocopherol has been found to be helpful in
reducing minimal erythema and the number of epidermal sunburn cells, which marks
skin damage related to oxidative stress caused by UVB.[48]

Vitamin B3 (niacinamide or nicotinamide)

Nicotinamide is a part of the coenzymes nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD), NAD
phosphate (NADP) and its reduced forms are NADH and NADPH. These molecules are vital
in many cellular metabolic enzyme reactions.[46,52] Nicotinamide is one of the newly
www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.
653
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
discovered vitamin based components of cosmeceutical products. It is found to have anti acne
and anti inflammatory actions.[43] Its anti inflammatory action may improve skin appearance
by decreasing leucocyte peroxidase systems that may lead to localized tissue damage as well
as enhance the stratum corneum barrier. The amelioration of facial depigmentation is
mediated by the suppression of melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. [53] In
fibroblast culture nicotinamide increases collagen production and this effect may lead for the
improvement of skin elasticity and reduction of fine wrinkles.[54]

Vitamin C
The rise of vitamin C in skin concentration is limited even with enormous oral
supplementation. Vitamin C has become a popular topically applied cosmeceutical because
topical application of L ascorbic acid is the only way to further increase skin concentration.
Free radical scavengers has grasped the attention of researchers on vitamin C. L ascorbic acid
which was first used as cosmeceutical creams is the active form of vitamin C. Due to the
oxidation of the vitamin exposed to air previous formulations of L ascorbic acid were very
unstable. Esterified derivatives of L ascorbic acid in topical formulations has been used to
overcome this problem and to improve stability. Ascorbyl 6 palmitate and magnesium
ascorbyl phosphate are the most commonly used derivatives.[55]

Vitamin B5
It is also known as pantothenic acid and is known to help in the production of the lipoproteins
of the skin, accelerating its healing time, nourish the skin.[59]

Vitamin P
It comprises of bio-flavonoid, which are not vitamins but they are nutritional supplements that
contain antioxidants like grape‘s, gingko biloba and citrus derivatives. These function as
antioxidants to eradicate free radicals that can damage skin cells. They eliminate the redness
and irritation in skin. Vitamins are good for the body. Practicing the habit of taking vitamin‘s
everyday is good for a more healthy body and mind.[59]

Panthenol
Panthenol, which is the alcoholic analog of vitamin B-5, is a water-soluble humectant
commonly found in different commercial skin creams, lotions, lipsticks and hair preparations.
It is unstable in the presence of acids, bases and high temperatures but stable in the presence

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

654
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
of oxygen and light. Panthenol is converted in the skin to pantothenic acid, which is a
[17]

significant component on coenzyme A that is essential for normal cellular metabolism.

Green Tea Extract

Research has shown that green tea (Cammeliasinensis) poly phenols are powerful suppressors
of carcinogenic activity from UV radiation and can exert wide protection against other
UVmediated responses, such as immuno-suppressant, sunburn and photo aging.[60]

Ferulic Acid
These are the compound that are derived from plants, and are considered to be a potent
antioxidant and has been shown to provide photo protection to skin. [61,62] Moreover, when
ferulic acid is mixed with vitamins C and vitamin E, the product has been shown to provide
substantial UV protection for human skin.[63,64] Furthermore, Murray et al. report that because
its mechanism of action is different from sunscreens, ferulic acid could be expected to
supplement the sun protection provided by sunscreens.[65]

Grape Seed Extract

These are the botanical that has been well recognised as a potent antioxidant and has been
shown to enhance wound contraction and closure. [66] Topical application of grape seed extract
has also been shown to boost the sun protection factor in humans.[67]
Arbutin
Arbutin is derived from the leaves of bearberry, cranberry, mulberry or blueberry shrubs, and
also is present in most types of pears. It can have melanin-inhibiting properties. [68] Arbutin
along with other plant extracts are considered to be the safe alternatives to commonly used
depigmenting agents to make the skin fairer. Medical studies have publicized the
effectiveness of Arbutin for skin lightening.[61]

Kojic acid
There are patents controlling its use for lightening of skin. Kojic acid is a by-product in the
fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacturing of sake, the Japanese rice
wine. Some research shows kojic acid to be effective in stopping melanin production.[69]

5% Inyline
They act by Reduces Fine Lines – Wrinkles.

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

655
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
Inyline (Hexapeptide-30 and Arginine) mainly target‘s the agrin/Musk post-synaptic pathway
blocking the mechanism of Musk (Muscle-Specific Kinase) in reducing muscle contraction.
Thus by blocking these neurotransmitters, the formation of fine lines and wrinkles is reduced
and prevented. When repetitive movements are impaired a collaborative effect is achieved -
reduced depth of wrinkles and younger looking skin.[70]

Antioxidants
Along with the external insults like UV radiation, drugs, air pollutants and heat and/or cold,
the skin also has to cope with endogenous mitogens, most importantly reactive oxygen
species (ROS) and other free radicals. These species are constantly generated during
physiological cellular metabolism. To respond to the harmful effects of ROS, the skin is
armed with an antioxidant system to maintain equilibrium between the pro-oxidants, or
damaging agents and the antioxidants, or protective agents; these antioxidants mediate at
different levels in the protective process. Here some of the antioxidants are listed below,

Lipoic acid
Lipoic acid is an exclusive free radical protector that is fat and water soluble. Once lipoic acid
crosses the cell membrane, it is broken down into dihydrofolic acid, which is also an
antioxidant. Alpha lipoic acid also reuses other important antioxidants, such as vitamin C,
vitamin E and glutathione.[17]
Dimethylaminoethanol
Topical preparations comprising dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) have been advertised for
their ability to improve skin firmness and to lift sagging skin. DMAE is able to diminish the
crosslinking of proteins that occurs during aging, probably acting as a free-radical scavenger.
[71]

Melatonin
Melatonin is a hormone secreted by the pineal gland. The advantageous action of melatonin
has been enlightened in terms of its ability to scavenge free radicals and to augment the
activities of antioxidant enzymes. It has been shown to suppress UV radiation–induced
erythema.[17]

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

656
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
Glucopyranosides
Resveratrol and polydatins are glucopyranosides found in various fruits and vegetables, the
maximum concentrations being found in grape skins, which synthesize these compounds in
response to exposure to UV-A and UV-B and fungal pathogens.[17]

Polyphenols
Polyphenolic compounds (eg. catechins, flavonols, thioflavins, thearubigins), also recognised
as epicatechins, are antioxidant by nature. These compounds, when tested against human
keratinocyte cells stressed by UV-B irradiation, showed high ant oxidative properties.

Regenerating Agents
There are multiplicities of ingredients that have slight anti-inflammatory properties able to
soothe irritated and stressed skin. Typical examples include are aloe Vera, allantoin and rose
hip oil which all are widely used in skin care preparations for sensitive or irritated skin. Many
of these agents like provitamin B5 and hyaluronic acid have also effective regenerating
properties promoting the growth of new skin cells and supporting wound healing. Both
provitamin B5 and hyaluronic acid are thus frequently used in after-peeling treatments,
antiaging formulations and in all treatments aiming to provide smoothness & softening to the
skin.[75]

Moisturizers
The cutaneous permeability barrier is localized in the stratum corneum interstices, and it is
mediated by the lamellar bilayers enriched in cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides.
Formulations containing skin-identical lipids have been suggested to facilitate a cascade of
physiologic events in keratinocytes, normalizing damaged skin. When applied to the skin for
a prolonged period, water can cause the elimination of cytokines. These pro inflammatory
molecules induce edema, vasodilatation, and frank inflammation; therefore, water alone may
modify both the structure and the function of the skin under certain conditions. By the same
token, moisturizers that make the stratum corneum softer and more pliant by increasing its
hydration could be considered cosmeceuticals.[59]

Probiotics
Probiotics are a relatively novel classification of skin care ingredients that are being used in
numerous topical products, Lactobacillus cultures are used to produce molecules that aid
repair the skin barrier after laser treatment or chemical peels. One product line (Clinique
www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.
657
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
Medical (Estee Lauder, New York) uses mild cleansers, sun protection, moisturizers and a
calming balm to provide an integrated skin care regimen for patients undergoing skin
treatments. In one study of this product line, patients treated with powerful pulsed lights or
fractional laser treatments had a noteworthy decrease in post treatment erythema and more
speedy recovery.[76]

Growth Factors
Growth factors are molecules used to stimulate cellular proliferation. This proliferation may
be profoundly useful when it produces epidermal and dermal structures that are more
systematized and less senescent. Two widespread product lines (Skin Medica, Carlsbad, CA
and Neocutis, San Francisco, CA) use different version of growth factors to produce
commercially successful product. The product developed by Neocutis incorporate growth
factors derived from a proprietary stem cell line. The product from Skin Medica use
epidermal growth factors originating from cellular cultures. Each has their own hypothetical
benefits, and both have data to support their results. One study using topical growth factors
demonstrated that it resulted in smoother skin with less visible wrinkles.[78]

PEPTIDES
Peptide are composed of chains of amino acids themselves the product of DNA transcription.
Thus the peptide is in normally cellular environing. These are the communication molecules
between the DNA and cellular machinery. Thus, they may be used and manipulated to direct
cells to behave in a more youthful manner. Peptides might also be the result of protein
degradation. As such, they form important feedback inhibition and feedback up regulation
loop. One such instance of feedback inhibition is their down regulation of metalloproteinases
(MMPs) such as collagenase.[79] After procedures intended to stimulate collagen production,
such as fractional laser treatments, chemical peels, injections of poly L lactia acid (PLLA),
and perhaps injections of Evolence (Porcine Collagen, Johnson and Johnson, Skiliman, NJ), it
may be helpful to incorporate the use of peptides that will stop MMP thereby increasing the
yield of the procedures performed. Peptides that may be useful in this regard include Matrix l.
This molecule is composed of five linked amino acid that have been demonstrated to raise
filbroblast production of collagen.[80]
LipoLight (fumed silica)
Lipo Light is used in selected formulations because almost all approaches to skin correction
take time to achieve full effect. The principle of LipoLight‘s ―soft focus‖ technology is

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

658
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
based on scattered light. In this light waves are reflected back from wrinkles and enlarged
pores. Similarly as proper lighting improves a photograph, rejecting the shadows from
wrinkles and pores makes them less visible.[83]

Hair cosmeceticals
The appearance of hair is a feature of the body over which humans, unlike other land
mammals, has direct control. The length, color and the style of the hair can be modified
according one‘s wish to appear. Styling of hair along with its color plays a vital role in the
appearance of people. In ancient times the setting and coloring of hair was done with the help
of mud and henna resp. various tonics and ointment for beautification of hair and for curing
scalp disease were used in ancient Greece and Rome. Henry de Mandeville first made the
distinction between the medical therapies intended for treatment of disease and cosmetic
agent for beautification.[84] But today‘s delineation of cosmetics from pharmaceuticals has
become more complex through the development of cosmetics with physiologically active
ingredients, i.e. cosmeceuticals. By far the most frequent form of cosmetic hair treatment is
shampooing. While shampoos have primarily been products aimed at cleaning the hair and
scalp, recent formulations are modified to the variations associated with hair quality, hair care
habit, and specific problems such as treatment of oily hairs. [85] dandruff.[86] and for androgenic
alopecia.[87] related to the superficial condition of the scalp.

.[84] Special care ingredients are targeted at modifying specific problems relating to the
superficial scalp. These shampoos are formulated using one or more specific ingredients
selected for their clinical effectiveness in these conditions. Thus, present-day antidandruff
ingredients are virtually all-effective antifungal agents, zinc pyrithione, octopirox, and
ketoconazole.[88] Due to short-contact time and water dilution, Hair growth stimulants cannot
be expected to have any impact on hair growth. A minoxidil-related compound (2,
Adiaminopyrimidine-3-oxide) is a cosmetic agent with claim of acting as a topical hair
growth stimulant.[89] Its target of action has been proposed to be the prevention of
inflammation and perifollicular fibrosis.[90] Some degree of efficacy of 2, A-diamino-
pyrimidine-3-oxide has been claimed in the prevention of seasonal alopecia. [91] Current
approval in the United States of two fresh products, Propecia and Rogaine Extra Strength
(Minoxidil) 5%, indicated in men to promote scalp hair growth, have added a new facet to
treatment options offered by physicians in treating androgenetic alopecia.[92]

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

659
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
List of Cosmeceutical Ingredient.[93]
Sl. Ingredient Purported action Sources Marketed Preparation
Comfrey
1 Allatonin Skin Smoothening Soft cleansing emulsion
(Fm. Boraginaceae)
aloe vera
2 Aloe vera Softens skin Lotus herbal moisturizers
(Fm Asphodebceae)
Alpha. Fruit acids (glycolic acid,
hydroxy Exfoliates and improves lactic acid, citricacid, tartaric Garnier anti wrinkle
3
acids(AHA) circulation acid, pyruvic acid, maleic preparation
acid, etc.
Arnica montane
4 Arnica Astringent & soothing Arnica herbal cream
(Fm. Asteraceae)

Arjunolic Antioxidant and Terminalia arjuna

5 Himalaya Arjuna
extract antiinflammatory (Fm. Combretaceace)

Beta hydroxyl Antibacterial Salicylic acid (Salix Oxymed shampoo

6 acids(BHA) alba)

Minimizes lipid
Beta- Carrots and tomatoes
7 peroxidation and cellular Environ body cream
Carotene (Fm Umberlliferae, Solanacea)
antioxidant
Boswellia serrata (Fm.
Anti-inflammatory and Aroma silk boswelia
8 Boswellia Burseraceae)
anti aging antiwrinkle cream

Soothes, softens skin,

Calendula officinalis (Fm
9 Calendula. and promotes cell Weleda calendula paste
Asteraceae)
formation.

Skin conditioning agent

increases collagen
production, improves
texture and integrity of Centella asciatica (Fm.
10 Centella Keratin complex
skin, and reduces Mackinlayaceae)
Appearance of stretch
marks.
Coleus
Antimicrobial
11 forskoflii oil Coleus sps. Ayush neem plus
aromatherapy/perfumer
Coriander Anti-inflarnmatory and Coriandrum sativa
Tcc collagen complex
12 seed oil anti-irritant, skin. (Fm.Umbelliferae)
lightening properties
Cucumber Eminence eye makeup
Refreshes, and tightens Cucumis sativus (Fm
13 Cools res remover
pores Cucurbiceae)

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

660
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
Juniper yarrow
Dry extract Achillea millefolium (Fm.
14 Treatment of oily hair. moisturizer
from yarrow Asteraceae)
Essential
Smoothens, moisturizes Linolenic acids and arachidonic Parachute hair oil
15 fatty acids
and protects acid
Furfuryladen
Improves hydration and
16 ine Plant growth hormone kinerase lips treatment
texture of skin
Lupeol Antioxidant and skin Cractacva nurvula Sea tonic stretch mark
17
conditioning treatment (Fm.capparidaceace) removing cream
Antioxidant that
smoothes rejuvenates and Ginkgo bloba Embryo revitalizer cream
18 Ginkgo
promotes youthful (Fm.Ginkgoaceae)
appearance
Green tea green teas Alchemy conditioner
19 Antioxidant
extract (Camellia sinensis)
Supports blood
Horse Aesculus hippocastanum
circulation wound Sisley flower gel
20 chestnut (Fm.Hippocastanacea)
healing effect and anti
extract
inflammatory
Stimulates circulation
and helps other Hedera spp.
21 Ivy Pattern body wash
ingredients penetrate (ivy family)
skin.
Free radical scavenger
22 kinetin Plants and yeast kinerase pro therapy
and antioxidant
Skin whitening
Licorice properties, antioxidant, Glycyrrhiza glabra
23 Liqourice balm
extract antimicrobial and anti (Fm.fabaceae)
inflammatory.
24 Neem oil Antimicrobial Azadirachta indica Himalaya neem face wash
limonoids (Fm.Meliaceae)
Antioxidant,
Oleanolic antifungal, improves
25 Olive leaf Trioxil an acne cream
extract texture and integrity of
skin
Builds moisture and Provitamin B5(broccoli, calf‘s Penaten baby cream
26 Panthenol
soothes irritation liver turnip greens)
27 Pycnogenol Anti-aging effect Grape seed extract Isotonix
Smoothes skin, promotes
Retinoic acid cell renewal and Vitamin A
28 Renova cream
improves circulation to (green leafy vegetables)
skin
Sodium Lubricant between skin
29 Natural protein Pevonia botanica
hyaluronate tissues and maintains
www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.
661
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
natural moisture
Antioxidant antimicrobial
Rosemary
30 and Anti inflammatory Rosemarinus officinalis L‘Oreal body conditioner
extract
Tetrahydrocu antioxidant and anti aging curcuma longa (Fm. Life extension super
31
rcuminoides zingiberaceae) curcumin

Antibacterial and curcuma longa

32 Turmeric oil Vicco turmeric cream
antiinflammatory (Fm.zingiberaceae)

Anti-inflammatory, Rosemanus officinalis Holy basil extract

33 Ursolic acid
collagen buildup (Fm.Lamiaceae)
Vitamin A.C,E (lemon, citrus
Everyuth peel
34 Vitamin A Anti-oxidant fruits, oil from sunflower and
safflower)
Hamamelis virginiana (Fm Thayers skin toner
35 Witch hazel Tones
Hamamelidaeae)

: List of Plants with antioxidant potentials as well as anti-wrinkling and antiaging

properties and are commonly used in diet:

REGULATORY SCENARIO
In the European Union, United States or Japan, Cosmeceuticals are not regulated as such. In
the EU, cosmeceuticals are considered cosmetics, In the United States, they are considered as
drugs that probably have not been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration
(FDA). In Japan, cosmeceuticals are considered as quasi-drugs. There exists no recognized
legal definition of a cosmeceuticals, as compared to the legal definition of a cosmetic or a
drug, anywhere in the world.

What about “cosmeceuticals”?

Any such category as ―cosmeceuticals‖ is not recognized by the FD&C Act. A product can
be a drug, a cosmetic, or a combination of both, but there has no meaning for the term
―cosmeceuticals‖ under the law.

How a product‘s is intended use established?

Intended use may be established in a number of ways. Among them are:
• Claims stated on the product labeling, in marketing, on the Internet, or in other advertising
materials. Certain claims may cause a product to be considered a drug, even if the product
is promoted as if it were a cosmetic. Such claims establish the product as a drug because
the intended use is to cure or prevent disease or otherwise affect the structure or functions

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

662
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
of the human body. Some examples are claims that products will restore hair growth,
reduce cellulite, treat varicose veins, or revitalize cells.
• Consumer perception, which may be established through the product‘s status. This means
querying why the consumer is procureting it and what the consumer supposes it to do. •
Ingredients that may cause a product to be considered a drug because they have a
renowned (to the public and industry) therapeutic use.

: PRODUCT’S LIST: Some branded herbal cosmeceuticals for photo protection of skin
from harmful UVB radiations.[121]
SR.NO Branded product Herbs constituent Purpose Manufacturer
Tomato Sun Cream Anti-wrinkle and Skinfood Cosmetics South
1. Tomato
SPF 36 PA++ sunscreen cream Korea
Green Tea, Aloe Aubrey Organics. United
2. Natural Sun SPF 25 Sunscreen cream
vera States
3. Sunscreen SPF +80 Apple Sunscreen cream Greenoo, Syria
Power Light Intensive Sun protecting
Lemon, Long Dan Garnier, England.
4. Fairness Moisturizer fairness cream
SPF 15
SPF3O natural Shea butter, Jojoba Sunscreen cream John Masters TM
5.
mineral sunscreen Organics, New York
Aroma sun tanning gel Roman camomile, Sunscreen Declore, Paris
6.
cream SPF 10 Geranium Jasmine gel
Saffron and bearberry Saffron, Bearbery Fair complexion Jovees, India
7.
fairness cream cream
8. Body lotion Sun flower oil Body lotion Cosmetics Bakery, Singapore
Antioxidant, anti-
HydraLight Pomegranate, Oat, Paula‘s Choice, Canada
9. aging,
moistureinfusing lotion Cranberry
moisturizer lotion
Bio-pro carrot
Carrot oil Sunscreen cream Biotique Botanical Herbal
10. protective cream
Extracts, India
SPF 15
Even out face cream Liquorice Oriflame Cosmetics, Sweden
11. SPF 20 Sunscreen cream

Antiwrinkle
Emblica
12. Moisturizing , lotion Anti-wrinkle lotion S B Cosmetics inc, Florida
SPF 30
13. Resist Super Turmeric Antioxidant Paula‘s Choice, Canada
antioxidant concentrate serum
serum
Protective body
Aloe vera Biotique Botanical Herbal
14. Biovera SPF 75 lotion
Extracts, India

15. Save face & body Bitter orange Sunscreen lotion Arbonne Cosmetics, U.S.A.
www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.
663
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
sunscreen SPF 15

This norm also holds true for essential oils in fragrance products. A fragrance promoted for
stimulating attractiveness is a cosmetic. But a fragrance promoted with certain
―aromatherapy‖ claims, such as assertions that the scent will help the consumer sleep or quit
smoking, meets the definition of a drug because of its envisioned use.[120]

: Some of the marketed cosmeceutical products.[122]

Sr.no Product Name Intended use.
1 Alpha Lipoic Acid Antioxidant, Anti-aging
2 Amla (Saberry) Anti-aging, Hair care
3 Boswellin CG Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-aging
Skin conditioning agent, Wound healing effects, Supports
4 CentIlin CG
circulation, Supports texture & Skin integrity
Cococin Moisturization, promotescell growth, Supports blood
5
circulation
6 Coffee Bean Extract Antioxidant, Anti-aging, Hair care
7 Coleus Barbatus Extract Skin conditioning agent, Anti-aging
8 Coleus forskohlii oil Anti-microbial, Anti-acne, Aromatherapy, Perfumery
9 Cosmoperine. Permeation enhancer
10 Ellagic Acid Antioxidant, Skin lightening
11 ForsLean Skin conditioning agent, Anti-aging
12 Gallnut Extract Anti-aging, Antioxidant
13 Glycerrhizinic Acid Skin smoothing, Skin conditioning, Anti -aging
14 Green Tea CG Antioxidant, Anti –microbial, UVB protectant
15 Licorice Extract CG Skin whitening, Anti-Inflammatory
16 Liposol Maleate Antioxidant
17 Lupeol Anti Irritant, Wound healing, Skin conditioning agent
Skin smoothing, Skin conditioning, Anti -aging
18 MonoAmmonium Glycerrhizinate

19 MonoLaurin Anti-microbial, hair care, Skin texture

Anti-microbial, Anti-fungal, Insect repellent, Antipediculosis
20 Neem Oil Limonoids
21 Oleanolic Acid Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-microbial
22 Oleuropein 80% Anti-microbial ,Antioxidant
23 OxyResvenox Anti-fungal, Anti-acne, UVB protectant
24 Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus santalinus) Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory ,Anti-microbial
25 Rosemary extract CG Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti -microbial
26 Rosmarinic acid 90% Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti -microbial
27 SabiWhite Skin whitener, Antioxidant
28 Sage Extract Anti Inflammatory, Anti-aging, Collagen build up
29 Sapindin Natural surfactant, anti-microbial, Hair care

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

664
 Basavaraj et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Ph armaceutical Sciences
30 Sappanwood (Ceasalpinla sappan) Natural Color
31 Soy Isoflavones 50% CG Anti -aging, Skin brightening
Tetrahydrocurcuminoids Skin whitener, UVB protectant, Antioxidant Anti
32
aging
33 Venocin Wound healing, Anti-Inflammatory, Supports circulation
34 Xymenynic Acid Anti-Inflammatory, Hair care
Potent dermal repair actives, antioxidants and moisturizers
Rose Ceramide Sensitive & Dry Skin
35 reinforce collagen and elastin production; stimulate skin's
Lotion
natural repair functions
36 Ultra Rich Anti-Aging Treatment Serum Anti-aging facial treatment serum
Wrinkle Raiders Facial Anti-Aging Anti-aging facial moisturizer with DMAE, anti-wrinkle
37
Moisturizer protection and collagen support
Ageless Faces Anti-Aging Night Advanced formula anti-aging moisturizer formulated for
38
Moisturizer night time skin rejuvenation.
Dynamic face care natural collagen booster serum,
39 Ageless Fresh Face Skin Renewal Serum
Antiaging and wrinkle fighting properties
Antioxidant Hydrating Dry Skin Face
40 Moisturizing dry skin
Mask
This eye cream has anti-aging and wrinkle protection for the
41 Perfection Anti-Aging Eye Cream Gel delicate eye area. Smoothens fine lines, tones and renews
your skin.
A scalp/hair care treatment product stops shedding, thinning
or falling hair. This natural scalp treatment stimulates and
Anti Hair Loss Scalp Care Treatment
42 unclogs hair follicles. Light and penetrating. Continued use
will strengthen the hair shaft to encourage new growth
without the use of chemicals.

www.wjpps.com Vol 6, Issue 4, 2017.

665