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Fashion by Steph P. Sison- Sep 14, 2019

Filipiniana Terno Barong Indige

Here's Everything You Need

to Know About the
Filipiniana Attire
See how the Filipiniana has evolved through
the years.

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IMAGE INSTAGRAM/fashionable_filipina

T
he ABS-CBN Ball's new dress
code this year opens a new
opportunity to put the spotlight
on the Filipiniana attire. On the red
carpet, we'll be able to see this traditional
garb with a fresh new look, modernized to
fit today's time. Below, we zoom in on
everything you need to know about the
Filipiniana attire and discuss how it
became our national dress. 

The Popular Textiles Used

in Local Garments

1. Piña
One of the distinct characteristics of the
Filipiniana is that it's traditionally made
from pineapple leaves. Pineapple fibers
are extracted by hand and worked into
fine threads that are later woven together
in a loom. The end result is a translucent
piece of fabric that can be layered on top
of each other without its wearer feeling
too hot. To this day, it's one of the most
lightweight and breathable fabrics that
can last for a long time.

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2. Jusi
)
Jusi is another type of Filipiniana fabric
)
originally made from banana leaves. After
the influx of Chinese silk organza, jusi
textile now comes from a blend (
of piña,
silk, and abaca (manila hemp) fibers
woven by machine.  

The Different Terms Used

to Describe Filipiniana
Attires
Throughout the years and with our rich
history, the Filipiniana attire has evolved
into different iterations. These are the
most popular iterations and a common
reference for modern remakes.

1. Tapis
The tapis in the Philippine context is
pretty much like the garments worn
across the Southeast Asian countries, and
is closely related to the Indian saree. It's a
piece of unstitched fabric wrapped across
the waist and fastened with a knot on one
side.

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Museo Nacional del Prado

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La vendedora de lanzones (The lanzones vendor).

Félix Resurrección Hidalgo y Padilla (1855-1913).
Oil on canvas. 1875. Museo del Prado. The tapis
(rectangular piece of cloth wrapped around the
waist) was used by women long before the
Spaniards arrived in the 1500s. It evolved as a kind
of over skirt or cover for the saya. Filipinas,
Hace Un Siglo. Metropolitan Museum of Manila.
Febrero-Marzo de 2000. #tapis
#felixresurreccionhidalgo #felixressurrecionhidalgo
#philippineart #philippinepainting #lanzones
#lanzonesvendor #philippinedress #filipiniana
#1870sphilippines

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___

2. Baro't Saya
This literally translates to shirt and skirt.
The baro't saya is the national dress worn
by Filipino women during the Spanish
colonization.

This is comprised of four separate pieces

of clothing:

Baro or Camisa (Shirt)

The top is made with puffy or butterfly

sleeves, adorned with intricate
emboidery. It is said to have been
fashioned after the Virgin Mary's
costumes and how her statues are
typically dressed.

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( '

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A vintage camisa with butterfly sleeves ! . Rust

colored cañamazo material. Embroidered with art
nouveau style flowers. Circa 1920s. " from the
collection of the late Ramon Villegas. Photo by Jo
Ann Bitagcol @bitagcol " #philippinenationaldress
#benchlovelocal #fashionablefilipinas #cañamazo
#philippineterno #camisa #butterflysleeves
#sheergarment #1920sfashion
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Panuelo or alampay (Scarf)

Since the baro is made from translucent

material, a scarf is placed on top of it,
across the shoulders to cover the breasts.
Some also wear the panuelo as a head
scarf.

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Kit Roxas’ circa 1870s-1880s “sombrado” pañuelo.

Succeeding photos feature her matching
“sombrado” camisa. Photographed at Tawalisi
Antiques for @nonesuchfair Fine Arts & Rarities Fair
Oct 27-29 at the Manila Peninsula.
#trajedemestiza #sombrado #shadowembroidery
#malong #filipina #filipiniana #philippinedress
#fashionablefilipinas #mestizadress #antiques
#thenonesuch2017 #thenonesuch #philippinecraft
#philippineantiques #piñacloth #pineapplecloth
#pineapplefabric

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By the 1920s, studio photography was more

affordable and women ordered their pictures in
postcard form to give away to amigas and family. A
popular genre aside from posing in a terno or a
Japanese kimono, was the use of the “balintawak”
(the country version of the terno). # # # This
postcard photo takes it a step further by venturing
out of the confines of a studio set. It uses a real
waterscape with a “bangka” or boat. # # # The
subject pretends to be fishing in a striped outfit. #
#fashionablefilipinas #filipiniana #balintawakdress
#philippineterno #fishingscene #1920sphotography
#1920sphilippines #dalagangpilipina
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Saya (Skirt)

The saya is made from cotton and

sinamay that remained to be unadorned
until the start of global trade. Since the
early Spaniards and Filipinos entered
trade with other countries, the fabrics for
the skirts also became more elaborate.

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Another view of the previous photo $ . The “sayas”

or skirts were reinterpreted with Japanese brocade
(with metallic thread) and the use of large
appliqués. % L to R (standing): Joji Felix, Mary
Prieto, Chona Kasten, (seated): Conchitina Sevilla
Bernardo and Gloria Romero. % from the book
Philippine Costumes by J. Moreno % #filipiniana
#trajedemestiza #mariaclaradress
#fashionablefilipinas #1960sphilippines
#pitoymoreno #josemorenofashion #jojifelix
#maryprieto #chonakasten #conchitinabernardo
#conchitinasevillabernardo #gloriaromero
#1960sphotography #1960sphilippines
#philippinefashion #fashionphilippines
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Tapis (Overskirt)

The tapis was retained and used on the

Baro't Saya as an assertion of the old ways
of the natives. The tapis functioned as an
overskirt, furthering the conservative
practice that the Spanish were imposing
through religious doctrines.

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Women of all classes wore the traje. The “tapis” —

a rectangular strip of cloth, was used by inhabitants
of the islands way before the Spaniards arrived.
Western skirts were added underneath the tapis as
an added layer for “modesty”. # #trajedemestiza
#filipiniana #tapis #tapiz #philippinedress
#fashionablefilipinas # from the Keystone
Collection.
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The tapis saw a more extravagant take

and was refered to as sobrefalda
(overskirt), a black translucent piece that
was sewn over the saya.

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The “sobrefalda” (which literally translates to a skirt

cover) was a more luxurious version of the “tapis”.
# Unlike the tapis, the sobrefalda was cut and
sewn to fit over the skirt. It was typically made of
black, translucent material to allow the skirt’s color
to be seen through it. # The Vienna bentwood
chair and the anahaw tree in the background were
“essentials” in this period’s décor. # University of
Michigan collection # #trajedemestiza
#1900sphotography #turnofthecentury #filipiniana
#filipina #fashionablefilipinas #sobrefalda #anahaw
#buri

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3. Maria Clara
The Maria Clara is fashioned after Dr.
Jose Rizal's character from Noli Me
Tangere. She is described as a Filipina
donning the mestiza's formal
eveningwear. Her skirt features vertical
panels called Siete Cuchillos or Seven
Daggers.

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Revivals of the late 1800s silhouette of the “traje de

mestiza” were worn throughout the 20th century as
costumes or attires for special occasions. & This
class photo features the “Maria Clara” silhouette
with its iconic paneled skirt called “Siete Cuchillos”
(7 daggers). % grade school class at St, Theresa's
College with: front row (l-r) Sonia Ruiz, Carmen
Warren, Estrella Cruz, Virginia Madamba, Celia
Ilustre, Maria Paz Warren; standing- (l-r) Helen
Asturias, Teresa Luciano, Angelita Suarez, Lydia
Gueco, Nanette Valera, and Alice Castro. 1950. %
from @marga_wf ‘s family photos % #filipiniana
#philippinedress #fashionablefilipinas #lovelocalph
#mariaclaradress #trajedemestiza
#sttheresascollege college #filipinodress
#schoolpictures #1950sphotography
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4. Traje de Mestiza or Terno

This is the modern version of the Maria
Clara, come the American occupation in
the Philippines. The baro sleeves had a
more voluminous bell-like shape, the
bodice became more fitted instead of its
old boxy silhouette, and the skirt became
more elaborate and even had a short saya
de cola or train.

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The mestiza. The traje. And the context of the

“bahay na bato”. The “cola” or train makes absolute
sense in the turn of the 20th century’s expansive
living room. ' Bais, Eastern Negros 1890. '
Collection of the University of Michigan '
#fashionablefilipinas #trajedemestiza
#mestizadress #cola #bahaynabato #filipinohouse
#turnofthecenturyphilippines #vintagephotography
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Former First Lady Luz Rosauro Banzon-Magsaysay

in a revival of the late 19th century traje de mestiza
silhouette. c1950s. ' from the slide collection of
the CCP PDC. #philippinefashionhistory
#fashionablefilipinas #luzmagsaysay
#philippinefirstlady #trajedemestiza #mestizadress
#cupolaskirt #vintagefashion #filipinianadress
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