REALISTIC PENCIL DRAWING

Introduction and Materials

In this module, we’ll take a look at the many forms of

graphite pencils, graphite grades, paper surfaces,
erasers, and blending tools.

Pencils
This course is focused on the process of creating realistic drawings
with graphite. Graphite is an allotrope of carbon and when
combined with clay constituents, it can be spread over a drawing
surface. Although graphite is produced in many forms, we’ll use
pencils in this course to apply the graphite.

The softness or hardness of the graphite encased in a pencil

affects the darkness or lightness of the mark produced. It also
affects the texture produced on the surface.

The softness or hardness of the graphite encased in a pencil is

designated on the side of most artist pencils. This range is fairly
broad. Although it’s temping to have every graphite grade at your
disposal, most artists will find that they only need a few pencils to
be successful.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Artist graphite pencils are designated with an alpha-numeric code. This code is made up of the
letters H or B or a combination of both and commonly a number. The H stands for “hard”, while
the B stands for “black”. An F pencil also exists. The F stands for “fine”.

Pictured below is a scale created using the various grades of graphite. The scale runs from 9H
(lightest and hardest) to 9B (darkest and softest) with H, F, HB, and B in the center. H pencils are
harder, produce lighter marks, and stay sharper for longer periods of time. B pencils are softer,
produce darker marks, and dull quicker.

Harder Softer

Lighter Darker

For most drawings, a range from 4H to 6B is more than enough. In most cases, a 2H, HB, 2B, 4B,
and a 6B are all the pencils you will need to create a full range of tone in a drawing.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Here we can see a closer comparison

of an H pencil and a B pencil. Both
pencils are capable of producing a
range of value by adjusting the amount
of pressure. Even though a 4B pencil is
very dark, it is still capable of producing
light marks. Notice how the hardness of
the pencil affects the texture of the
mark. Softer pencils will reveal more of
the texture or tooth of the paper while
harder pencils mask it to a certain
degree.

Sharpening Wooden Pencils

The tip of the pencil also plays an

important role in the character of the
mark. Sometimes, we will need our pencil
tip to be dull for consistent applications of
tone. Other times, we need a sharp and
precise point.
There are a variety of pencil sharpeners
available. Electric pencil sharpeners are
great for quickly sharpening your pencil,
but may shorten the life of the pencil. A
simple, metal hand-held pencil sharpener
sharpens pencils with precision without
over sharpening.

For a more precise tip, you may consider

sharpening your pencils with a blade. This
approach exposes more of the graphite
which is great for shading. It also allows
you to carve a very sharp tip. Using a
blade, simply carve the wooden casing of
the pencil, making cuts away from your
body.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

After removing the wooden encasing,

the tip can be sharpened further by
rubbing it over a sandpaper pad. As
the tip is rubbed, the pencil is rotated
to ensure a precise tip on all sides.

Lead Holders

Some artists may prefer the

consistent weight and grip provided
by a lead holder. A lead holder, as
the name implies, holds
interchangeable shafts of different
grades of graphite. The artist can
choose how much of the graphite
they leave exposed.

Changing the graphite inside of the holder is

easy, but it does require the artist to remove
the graphite currently in the holder and insert
another grade when a lighter or darker mark is
desired.

A sandpaper pad can be used to sharpen the

graphite in a lead holder, but a pencil sharpener
designed for the lead holder does a more
effective job of producing a sharp tip.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Other Graphite Pencils

Some manufacturers produce

speciality pencils that are quite
versatile. These pencils may mimic
specific graphite grades but offer
characteristics that make them
attractive in certain situations.
General’s Layout Pencil, for
example, is similar to a 4B graphite
pencil, but keeps a sharper tip for a
longer period of time.

Blackwing produces several

speciality pencils. Similar to
General’s Layout Pencil, these
pencils provide different
characteristics while mimicking the
range of tone the artist can achieve
with standard artist graphite pencils.
The Blackwing 602 pencil, for
example, has a broad range of tone
but produces a smooth silky feel
when marks are made.

One unique characteristic of

Blackwing pencils is the eraser.
The eraser is quite long and can
be extended. Once the eraser has
been exhausted, replacements
can be used - however, if the
eraser is completely used, then
the pencil is likely at the end of its
life as well.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Comparing Marks

Clearly each type and brand of graphite pencil will differ in how they behave when applied to
drawing paper. Pictured below is a comparison of the pencils we’ve discussed with marks made
on 70 lb drawing paper.

Derwent Graphic 4B Lead Holder 2B General’s Blackwing 602

Layout

Papers

The surface in which you create your drawing is incredibly important and should not be
overlooked. There are an endless number of options available for the artist and each person will
discover their “favorites”. We’ll take a look at a few options, but first we’ll look at the basic
characteristics of paper.

There are three main factors that affect the quality and character of the paper. These are…

1. Tooth - The tooth of the paper is the surface texture of the paper.
2. Composition - The composition refers to the materials used to create the paper.
3. Weight - The weight is the thickness of the paper.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

The Tooth

The tooth is the texture of the paper. Smoother papers are generally referred to as having a
weaker tooth. Since the pencil makes consistent contact with the surface of papers with weaker
tooth, it is easier to create smoother transitions of tone. Blending is easier as well.

Smoother papers can make it easier to create smooth transitions of tone, but textured papers
offer their own advantages. Papers with a more pronounced texture are said to have a heavy
tooth. Since the paper makes contact with the paper in an inconsistent manner, the heavier
texture of the paper can play a role in the finished look of the drawing. Some artists may prefer
surfaces with a heavier tooth in order to create unique textures and develop the illusion of
atmosphere in their drawings.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Paper Composition

Paper can be made out of a variety of materials. Papers are made by turning fibers into moldable
pulp. Most commonly, these fibrous materials originate from timber (wood) or cotton. The pulp
that is produced is molded together, most often pressed, and dried to produce the paper. The
molding, pressing, and drying process all affect the finished surface.

Lower quality papers are typically made from wood pulp. Wood pulp is highly acidic and will
degrade over time. Newsprint and lower quality drawing papers will fall into this category.

Higher quality papers are made entirely from cotton and/or linen fibers making them more
resistant to chemical break-down over time. These papers are commonly referred to as “rag”
paper.

Many papers fall somewhere in-between and are made with a mixture of wood and “rag” fibers.
Often, chemicals are added to the papers to slow or prevent pH changes over time. Many mid-
priced papers fall into this category.

Acid Free Vs. Archival

Papers that are labeled “acid-free” means that they are acid neutral. Many papers are treated to
make them “acid-free”. If the paper has been treated, it will wear off over time and the paper will
begin to deteriorate (along with your art). Papers that have been treated will be labeled as “acid-
free” but may be missing the “non-archival” mark up.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Archival papers are also acid-free but are by nature, non-acidic. An example of this would be
“rag” papers that are less likely to break-down over time.

In the end, “archival” papers are best, “acid-free” papers are good, and the rest are best used for
sketching.

Weight

Drawing papers are designated by weight. This can be confusing if you don’t know why they have
a weight designation. The weight gives the artist an idea of the thickness and stability of the
paper. It is most commonly dictated according to pounds. The weight designation is the physical
weight of a ream of paper, which is 500 sheets.

Logically, 500 sheets of heavy watercolor paper will weigh more than 500 sheets of thin tracing
paper.

Specific Papers

Every artist will discover papers that are best suited for their particular style or how they deliver
the medium to the surface. Every paper has its advantages and disadvantages. In the next
section, we’ll take a look at several different paper surfaces. Each of the papers we’ll examine is
suitable for finished work, but not all surfaces will work for every artist.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Strathmore 300 Series

Drawing Paper

This medium-toothed paper is

acid free and is priced on the
lower end of the pricing scale.
It is available in large and
small pads and is an excellent
surface for sketching.

Stipple Paper by Bee

Paper Company

This paper features a heavy

tooth with a unique pattern.
Best used for larger drawings,
this paper can create an
atmospheric look but it can
difficult to push darker tones.

Hot Press Watercolor

Paper

Designed for watercolor, this

paper is also suitable for
graphite applications. Its soft
and smooth tooth makes it
suitable for easy transitions of
tone.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Stonehenge Paper

This soft 100% cotton paper

features a medium tooth.
However, the tooth of the
paper can be slightly flattened
with applications made with a
pencil or a blending stump,
making it a versatile paper for
pencil drawing.

Erasers

Your eraser affects the look of the completed drawing and not all erasers are created equal. For
drawing, some erasers are better than others. There are four main types of erasers (rubber, gum,
vinyl, and kneaded) and each behaves differently. Let’s take a look at each type and how they
interact with graphite on drawing paper.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Rubber Eraser

This common eraser is best left in the drawer since it smears marks made by softer graphite
pencils. Although it works and removes the graphite from the drawing surface, the potential
damage to surface and the drawing isn’t worth it.

Gum Eraser

This eraser is the softest and most gentle to the paper. However, an art gum eraser crumbles
very easily as it removes the graphite. While this eraser can be used in a pinch, it’s best suited
for cleaning up borders or mat’s prior to framing.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Vinyl Eraser

Vinyl or plastic erasers are very tough and capable of removing graphite entirely from the
surface. Be careful though - if used too vigorously, they can tear your paper. These erasers
are great for detail work and are often found in eraser holders for even greater control.

Kneaded Eraser

This pliable eraser is incredibly soft and gentle to your paper. It can be molded into different
shapes and even used to lift the medium without affecting the texture of the mark. However,
because it is so soft, it can be difficult to remove darker marks from the surface.

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Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

Blending Stumps (and Tortillions)

While smooth transitions of tone can be achieved by adjusting the amount of pressure you
place on the pencil, some circumstances will require a blending tool. Cotton swabs, chamois
towels, and paper towels can all be used for blending. However, specialized blending tools
such as blending stumps and tortillions provide the artist with more control.

Blending stumps and tortillions do the same job but differ slightly in their construction.
Blending stumps are made up of compressed paper, while blending tortillions are rolled up
pieces of paper.

You may be tempted to use your finger

for blending. However, your finger is too
broad for the precise blending required
for realistic drawing. Your finger also
has oils that transfer to the drawing
surface while mixing with the graphite.
This makes areas blended with a finger
difficult to erase and can lead to a
messy drawing.

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 Realistic Pencil Drawing - Module 1 - “Introduction and Materials”

A paper blending tool, like a blending stump,

provides the required precision for blending
while keeping the surface clean and
controlled.

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