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Color Chemistry 1

The document discusses burnout printing, a technique where a blended fabric is printed with a paste containing chemicals that destroy one fiber type (usually cotton) while leaving the other fiber (usually polyester) intact. This creates a patterned lace-like design on the fabric. The process involves screen printing the paste, fixing it, then washing away the destroyed fiber. It requires special screens and handling due to the corrosive chemicals used, such as sulfuric acid. The document provides details on the chemicals, equipment, steps, and precautions for performing burnout printing.

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MD Tausif
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
54 views

Color Chemistry 1

The document discusses burnout printing, a technique where a blended fabric is printed with a paste containing chemicals that destroy one fiber type (usually cotton) while leaving the other fiber (usually polyester) intact. This creates a patterned lace-like design on the fabric. The process involves screen printing the paste, fixing it, then washing away the destroyed fiber. It requires special screens and handling due to the corrosive chemicals used, such as sulfuric acid. The document provides details on the chemicals, equipment, steps, and precautions for performing burnout printing.

Uploaded by

MD Tausif
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 12

TABLE OF CONTENT

1.PRINTING
2.BURNOUT PRINTING
3.STEP BY STEP PRINTOUT PROCESS OF BURNOUT
PRINTING
4.SOME INFORMATION ABOUT BURN-OUT PRINT
5.CHEMICALS OF BURNOUT PRINTING
6.PROCEDURE(EQUIPMENT)
7.CHEMICAL REQUIREMENTS
8.EQUIPMENTS NEEDED
9.STEPS TO BE FOLLOWED
10.PRECAUTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS
11.SOME IMPORTANT POINTS REGARDING THE
BURNOUT PRINTING
12.REMARKS
LIST OF TABLE
LIST OF FIGURE
BURN – OUT PRINTING
Cotton and other cellulosic fibers are destroyed by strong mineral acids or their acid salts. This
procedure is sometimes referred to as "Burn Out". A cotton/polyester blended fabric can be printed
with a print paste containing the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion is destroyed
and only the polyester remains. This allows a patterned lacey design to be imparted to the fabric. It also
is possible to incorporate a disperse dye in the burn out paste and dye the polyester during the burn out
phase. This process is very corrosive and requires special screens and special care in handling.

Printing
In the apparel industry, besides the artwork to be printed, the most important thing is the printing
technique. There are several printing techniques, and each of them is suitable for a certain business
strategy. Printing can also be defined as localized dyeing. Defined as the application of dye or pigment in
a different pattern on the fabric and by subsequent after treatment of fixing the dye or pigment to get a
particular design. Being a designer, you may have multiple options to decide which printing techniques
is most suitable for a specific design on the garment. Experienced designers choose printing methods
primarily on the basis of final outcome as design sharpness, durability, brightness, texture and hand feel.
Sometimes a printed fabric can be identified by looking at the back side of fabric where there is no
design or color as face side.

Nowadays print is a very important thing for this textile sector. Print makes clothes attractive. We can't
imagine dress or clothes without printing. Printing sector is also expanding and changing every day with
the fashion trend. We are discovering new technique and qualities of printing day by day. Print
technology is growing up with the clothes industry. 99% of fashion clothes now must have some print on
it.

BURNOUT PRINTING
Cotton and other cellulosic fibers are destroyed by strong mineral acids or their acid salts. This
procedure is sometimes referred to as "Burn Out". A cotton/polyester blended fabric can be printed
with a print paste containing the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion is destroyed
and only the polyester remains. This allows a patterned lacey design to be imparted to the fabric. It also
is possible to incorporate a disperse dye in the burn out paste and dye the polyester during the burn out
phase. This process is very corrosive and requires special screens and special care in handling. The table
below contains the "Burn Out" print paste formula.

Burn-out textiles are a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric surfaces. This is primarily
being done in fabrics with at least 2 different fiber content i.e., Cotton-Polyester, Silk-Rayon etc. Here
one fiber component is being dissolved thru chemical reactions while the other content remains intact
giving away raised illusion designs.
The printing factory makes this print with the flat bed printing machine. The printing way of this print is
same as a normal flatbed print, just printer's use acid type chemical instead of color.

BURNOUT PRINTING

1. PC or CVC fabric.
2. Paste + Any acid liberating salt (like Nacl,Na2 so4)
3. Steaming
4. Washing (Rou basting wash)
5. Burnout print complete
Only print technicians will understand the above 5 points

Step by Step Printing Process of Burn out Print:

1st Step: Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork.

2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition
a) 60% polyester 40% cotton OR
b) 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.
3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory.
4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid but
polyester portion will
be remain same.
5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color

1ST TYPE: Printing with a chemical substance - destroys the fibre in the design area, resulting a designed
hole in the fabric
2ND TYPE: Involves blended fabrics - ONE FIBRE IS BURNT OUT, and ANOTHER FIBRE IS LEFT
UNDAMAGED when treated with chemicals
EX: A rayon/polyester blend. When the burn-out printing is done, RAYON PORTION DISAPPEARS(burn-
out) leaving the polyester unchanged. The result is a gauze-like print portion of the fabric

Some information about burnt-out print


1) Other names - Devour process, Corrosion process, transparency process, carbonization printing
2) Flat bed Other names - Devour process, Corrosion process, transparency process, carbonization
printing
3) Flat bed screen printing
4) Acids instead of colours
5) Normally the cost of burnout print without profit is $4.5 to $5.0/kg
6) Can be done only on some selected fabrics ( cellulose & synthetic blend or cellulose & cotton blend)
7) best composition- 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric or vice versa
8) ommon chemical use - Sulphuric acid, mixed into a colourless print paste
9. Mostly done on velvet fabrics screen printing
10.Acids instead of colours
11.Normally the cost of burnout print without profit is $4.5 to $5.0/kg
12.Can be done only on some selected fabrics (cellulose & synthetic blend or cellulose & cotton blend)
13.best composition- 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric or vice versa
14.Common chemical use - Sulphuric acid, mixed into a colourless print paste
15. Mostly done on velvet fabrics

Step by step printing process of burn out print

1st Step: Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork.

2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition

a) 60% polyester 40% cotton OR


b) b) 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.

3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory.

4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid but
polyester portion will be remaining same.
5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require colo

Chemicals of Burn out Printing


❖ Synthrapol
❖ Sodium bisulfate
❖ Guar gum
❖ PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
❖ Glycerin & Water

Chemicals other than Sodium Bisulfate were also tested for this experiment. e.g.

1.Sulfuric acid Full Black Effect (No Burning)


2.Sodium Hydrosulfite. (No Burning)
3.Sodium Bisulfite. (No Burning)

Procedure
Equipment

❖ Blender or hand mixer

1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 1400F (600C) water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with
(2 gm) PRO Dye Activator and (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton
muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This step
does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares the fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or
sizing.
2. Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or even the day before use it. In a large plastic or stainless steel
bowl, measure 2 cups (500 ml) of room temperature 750 to 950F (240 to 350C) water. In a separate dry
container measure a 1/3 cup (50 gm) of guar gum. Using a blender or hand mixer, starts blending just
the water, then gradually add the guar gum. Continue blending until well mixed. Allow to stand several
hours or overnight for a smooth paste.
3. Make the burn-out paste just before you are ready to use it. Measure cup plus 2 Tbl (220 ml) of 1000F
(380C) water and dissolve cup (200 gm) of sodium bisulfate in the water. Remember to always add the
acid to the water, as a safety precaution. Once the sodium bisulfate is dissolved, add a cup (80 ml) of
glycerin and the thickener paste made in step 2. Mix thoroughly using your blender or hand mixer.
Discard the burn out paste after three days.
4. Prepare a padded surface to print on. If we do not have a padded print table, we can create a padded
surface by laying down a terry cloth towel on your work table and taping it in place with masking tape.
Cover the terry cloth towel with plastic or a canvas drop cloth. Then secure your fabric with masking
tape on the plastic, or with T-pins on the canvas drop cloth.
5. Apply the burn-out paste to the fabric. Screen print, stencil, or apply the burn-out paste freehand,
with foam or bristle brush. Make sure the burn-out paste penetrates through to the back of the fabric.
The best paste penetration is achieved by screen printing, followed by stenciling, and then freehand
applications. When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is best to print on the back side of the fabric rather
than the pile. It is important to sample your method of application before working on large projects, to
make sure the fabric will burn-out successfully.
6. Allow the fabric to air dry thoroughly. We can also speed up the drying by using a hair dryer.
7. Carefully remove the burned out (carbonized) areas of your fabric by one of the methods listed
below. This part can be messy, so work outside if possible and always wear a cartridge respirator to
avoid inhaling the small fibers.
o Gently hands wash the fabric.
o Gently brush off the burned out fiber by hand.
o Use a small hand held vacuum.
8. Wash thoroughly with warm 1100F (440C) water by hand or machine wash on gentle cycle with tsp
(2.5ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric. Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry.

NOTE:* Curing time and temperature are needed to be pre tested (Lab Trial), some time while using
light blends, Polyester portion also get damaged. So, consequently no good print. One can choose one of
these temperatures and times
1. 160C @ 5Min
2. 180C @ 2Min
3. 200C @ 1Min

CHEMICAL REQUIREMENTS:
1. Sodium bisulphate
2. Synthrapol
3. Guar gum (thickener)
4. Soda Ash
5. Glycerine

EQUIPMENTS NEEDED:
1. Scouring m/c
2. Blender
3. Printing table
4. Printing source
5. iron

STEPS TO BE FOLLOWED:
1. Scour the fabric using soda ash and synthrapol in hot water at about 60° to remove oil, dirt and sizing
2. Rinse thoroughly
3. Prepare thickener paste - take water in a blender and gradually add the guar gum. Continue blending
till it is smooth
4. Next add sodium bisulphate to water for burn-out paste
5. When acid is dissolved, add to it the glycerine (hygroscopic) and the above prepared thickener paste
and blend well
6. Prepare the padded printing surface
7. Apply the burn out paste by any form of printing source screen or stencil or freehand with foam or
bristle brush.
1.Allow the fabric to dry through air
2. When dried, it is taken to the ironing table, place a cloth over it 3.Iron the fabric for about 3-5 minutes
or until the fabric becomes medium brown. 4. Carefully remove the burnt out areas by hand wash or
brushing off or small vacuum
5. Wash with warm water (by hand or m/c) by adding synthrapol detergent
6. Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry

PRECAUTIONS & INSTRUCTIONS:


1. Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or even the day before you need to use
2. Make the burn-out paste just before you are ready to use it.
3. The best paste penetration is achieved by screen printing, followed by stencilling, and then freehand
applications
4. When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is best to print on the back side of the fabric rather than the pile
5. Don't overheat the burn-out areas to a black colour,otherwise you run the risk of permanently
discolouring the fabric.
6. While working with sodium bisulphate it is important to wear a dust/mist respirator, rubber gloves,
safety goggles, and an apron or old clothes. Avoid contact with skin or eyes

Costly When fixation temperature is varied slightly, big colour variation occurs and residues can't be
removed off easily Printing paste when used on next day will not give a smooth finishing (excess=waste)
Excess time / temperature may cause yellowing in unprinted areas Risky acids skin damage

Some important points regarding the Burnout print


1. Burnout print is not possible on 100% cotton fabric. Clothes should be PC or CVC
2. 60% polyester 40% cotton is the best composition for Burnout print.
3. Process loss is very high. More than 35%
4. Single jersey construction is the best construction for Burnout print.
5. If you need the finished fabric with 120 to 130 GSM then you should knit the fabric with 160 to 170
GSM.
6. Burnout print is not only expensive but also lucrative with nice feelings.

Remarks
Burnout is a great effect. By this printing we get a vintage & Distant look. It is adorable and seems
pretty. Synthetic thickeners are usually polysaccharide based and normally used in disperse printing of
Polyester of Polyester Fabrics. This thickener is readily available in market. It is not something like
special thickener.

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