BASIC INFORMATION FOR PLANNING OFF-GRID SOLAR

AND WIND POWER GENERATION

Many people are finding their utility companies to be unreasonable, hostile, bullying and
dishonest about their “advanced” ELECTRONIC UTILITY METERS (sometimes called “Smart
Meters”, “AMI” meters or “AMR” meters).
These meters are widely known to emit cancer causing radiation, also to cause illness and injury
to EMF sensitive people (more than 15% of the population), have caused thousands of house fires
by their lack of surge protection and grounding, and are designed to conduct highly invasive
surveillance of private activities in people's homes with the data being stored and shared with
unidentified agencies and organizations without consent of those who were spied on. To make all
this worse, skyrocketing utility bills are associated with electronic utility meters.
So, OFF-GRID energy production is a way to have no electric utility meter, no account with the
utility company, no utility company strangers entering your property and NO MORE
ELECTRIC BILLS.
Every property owner, tenant and occupant has an absolute right to refuse these radiation-
emitting fire hazard surveillance devices without cost or penalty, but many utility companies
worldwide are refusing to respect the health, safety, privacy, rights and demands of their
customers and they have chosen to give us no alternative than to look for ways to disconnect
entirely from the hazards and grief caused by abusive, dangerous and bizarre grid utility
company policies.
Below is a guide for anyone who may be considering installing off-grid solar or wind power for
themselves. Escape from gird utility dependency is a big step but it is the only reasonable path for
a large number of families and individuals because of the harmful, unsafe and unlawful
electronic metering.

TIPS AND INFO FOR GOING OFF-GRID

WARNING: "Full Service" solar companies can be WAY too expensive.
Those “full service” solar system providers use expensive components, mark them up a lot, add sales
commissions and other charges, then they want to loan you the money for the system and charge you
interest. By calling that “brand name provider” your system can easily cost twice as much as it should.
Also, the "full service" solar companies often refuse to install off-grid systems because they have been
regulated or intimidated to "not interfere" with grid utility company business. They may promise you
government “rebates,” bit often those rebates have strings attached and they put your personal and
system information on government registers where you may be subject to taxation, inspection and
control by “authorities” sometime in the future.
Also, those full service solar system contracts sometimes pull some dirty tricks like making it so you
never really own your system, or hidden costs come out of nowhere later on, or you are forced to pay
for “maintenance services” that you don't need or could easily do yourself. It seems like there is no
scam they haven't thought up.
The simple fact is that companies have overhead and they have to pass that cost on to you.
If you are on a budget, think about your solar project as a DIY project where you'll need to do a little
research yourself and avoid those “full service” contracts with pages and pages of incomprehensible
small print. Alternatives and DIY tips are right below.
A good source.
One company that can help you is WholesaleSolar.com. You can buy just what you need and hire a
local electrician on an hourly or daily basis to install your system. You may need a general handyman
to set up your power station area. Some people build a shed dedicated to their power station, some
people just put it in their garage, it does not take up very much space.
Be technical or don't.
You can get pretty technical if you want, adding up the peak wattage draw of all your electric
appliances and equipment, then calculating the size of your system. For the non-technical, you can also
do it backwards. Just shop for the largest system you can afford, then, if necessary, conserve electricity
to make up the difference. The lifestyle adjustment will probably be well worth the freedom of
controlling your own energy without the utility company bullying and rate gouging. Sometimes it
makes sense to start with a small system, perhaps keep you grid power for a while as well, then later
when you have more money saved up, expand your system or put in a separate system for a particular
uses such as the furnace or the kitchen appliances. When you have two smaller systems instead of one
big one you reduce your chances of any full power outage.
You can do it.
You will see proposed system configurations at WholesaleSolar.com as well as individual components.
Below is a basic list of the components you need. That can vary depending on the size and type of
system you install. WholesaleSolar.com guides you in balancing your system so you have the right
amount and kind of solar panels, batteries and other components.

BASIC COMPONENTS OF AN OFF-GRID SOLAR SYSTEM

1. Solar panels, and, if you are in a colder climate, a wind turbine. If you get both solar
panels and a wind turbine, that is called a "hybrid system". Usually a wind turbine alone
will not supply enough electricity alone. Your system will be either solar alone, or solar
and wind hybrid.
2. Weatherproof wiring from your solar panels and wind turbine to a service panel near
your power station. Other grades of wiring are also used in your power station (you don't
need top figure this out yourself, see below). When you order a solar package from
Wholesalesolar.com they provide a wiring diagram so the electrician knows exactly how
much wire will be needed in the different gauges.
3. A simple service panel (metal utility box) that combines the wires from the solar panels
into incoming lines with the correct voltage output for your charge controller and
batteries (your electrician will figure this out).
4. A charge controller to regulate the charging of your batteries. This is the brains of your
system, and no off-grid solar system works without a charge controller. Without the
charge controller the panels would destroy your batteries in no time. If you install a
solar-wind hybrid system you will need two charge controllers which are linked together
electronically to coordinate the charging of the batteries.
5. Monitor. This is a digital display that shows you the status and performance of your
system. You will check this regularly. Without a monitor your would be "blind" to
problems that your system may be developing. With your monitor you will be able to
see clearly whether your level of energy use is stressing your system.
 6. Batteries. Some people use car batteries, golf cart batteries, forklift batteries, etc. That is
not ideal. Those batteries are made for different charge-discharge cycles and they do not
last long in a solar charging application. I recommend batteries that were designed for
solar systems. There are some new batteries that are more efficient and last longer than
traditional lead-acid batteries. One is called a "salt water" battery. It is good to shop
around, do some web searches. Usually you want to buy batteries locally because they
are heavy and expensive to ship.
7. In-line service panel (metal box) box for emergency switch-off and power management.
This box goes between your batteries and your inverter. Service panel boxes and electric
wire are available at any electrician's outlet. Your electrician will probably supply all
those items. Check prices online to make sure your electrician's prices are reasonable.
8. Inverter. This is a heavy metal box like a big transformer. This converts the direct
current from the batteries to alternating current for your house. This allows you to use
"normal" appliances which use alternating current just like you get from the utility
company. Without an inverter you would need to find appliances that work on direct
current. They are rare, expensive and usually are designed for trailers. If you are
concerned about “dirty electricity” you can find higher-quality inverters that are very
clean. Ask for a “pure sine wave inverter.”
9. Distribution Service Panel (metal box, also called "breaker box"). This panel takes the
power from your inverter and splits it up into discreet lines like the breaker box you use
with grid power. It gives you the output for different lines in the house, each on its own
breaker, usually 20 amps each. When you go off-grid, your current breaker box is
disconnected from the utility company and connected to your solar system. Then you
cancel your grid electric service and never pay another electric bill again.
10. You will need a competent electrician to do the installation, hopefully with experience
in solar systems. That is the person person who will know how to install and connect all
of those components above. Some are mounted on the wall, the batteries are on the floor
or on a sturdy shelf. Most of it needs to be out of the weather. When you order a system,
WholesaleSolar.com gives you a wiring diagram so the right gauge of wire is indicated
for each connection. Again, your electrician will decipher that to install the correct
wiring gauges.

“OFF-GRID” Equals Freedom, Independence and Cost Control

Don't be overwhelmed.
Between WholesaleSolar.com or another solar system component outlet, and your electrician, all you
should need to do is watch and control your costs and be available to answer any questions from your
electrician about where, how and when you would like the installation to be done. Of course, the more
you read up on solar, the better your chances of a reliable and affordable system and a smooth
installation. If you are handy with tools you will save even more money by doing the basic tasks that
don't require an electrician. If you are not the handyman type, you can hire one for less than the
electrician per hour and save money that way.

Check your local regulations.

Some corrupt local officials will take bribes or “campaign contributions” from utility companies and
actually pass codes prohibiting or restricting off-grid solar systems. You may have to fight city hall or
your homeowner's association to win your right to supply your own power. You can apply for a waiver
on the basis that your system will not be a nuisance. Sometimes the government rebates are not
available for off-grid systems. Generally, that does not matter because on-grid solar costs you more
over time with the skyrocketing utility connection rates and the unhealthful, unsafe and invasive
metering.

Slight lifestyle adjustment ahead.

With your own power system, you are your own power company, so you will look in on your
equipment and batteries now and then to make sure they are properly maintained and working right. If
anything does not seem right you can call your electrician to check things.
Because an off-grid solar system is a major investment, it is usually wise to consider reducing your
consumption to some extent and try to not continually stress your batteries with deep-cycling and
heavy drain. If you can live with a little less power it will save you a lot on your system cost.

Do the math.
It takes a little number-crunching to determine how much your solar off-grid power costs relative to
your electric bill. One important math question is "How long will it take until my solar system pays for
itself?" You divide the total system cost by your average monthly utility bill. Try to make sure your
system will pay for itself within about 5 years or less. Doing this math is very important, especially if
you are contracting with a full-service provider. You might find that, with the contract service, it would
take the system ten years or more to pay for itself. This is no bargain because, after 10 years the
batteries may need replacing, so your your system should be fully paid-off well before that.
We can help.
If you would like us to provide consultation support, contact us at [email protected] or call
818-843-3667.

PART 2 - OFF-GRID ENERGY - MORE DETAILED INFORMATION

Essential Knowledge For Planning And Building Your OFF GRID
Solar/Wind Power System

KEEPING THE COST DOWN

"Full service" solar companies are shameless gougers, taking advantage of wealthy people who
want to "go green". They try to sell people “Grid-Tie” systems to keep in political favor with
utility companies and municipal governments who love to tax your monthly bills. When you tell
the full service solar company you want to keep your system cost down or go off grid they walk
away or pressure you to choose “quality” or “reliability”, which are only ways to justify
overcharging for everything.
Full service companies' fees, markups, surcharges and interest costs are ridiculous, not to
mention that they always try to sell you more power than you need. Sometimes they even keep
government rebates for themselves. If anyone shoves a complicated contract at you, run for the
hills.
 To control costs you have to be your own contractor and seek a distributor, wholesaler or
retailer of solar system components, then hire an electrician and maybe a carpenter to help you
put the system together.
Yes, you will want to study up and seek expert advice from people who know solar systems, but
avoid that “full service company” and the deep commitments. If you take charge of learning
some basics and finding good suppliers and advisers you can easily save more than half the cost
of your system, or, you can have twice the power.

It may not be a good idea to look for the very newest techie equipment. The proven products are
usually more reliable and cause less headaches. Always look at the warranty and compare the
specs.

WholesaleSolar.com is where I got most of my system components. Batteries are generally too
heavy to ship so it is usually best to find them locally.
There are some components, such as solar panel mounting hardware, which can be pretty
expensive. Often you will find some standard hardware that will do the job just as well. You just
have to be careful to have everything solid, secure and not stressing the glass panels.

BATTERIES ARE HEAVY

You will want a local source for batteries. There are battery stores that specialize in solar system
batteries. I strongly recommend you find batteries that are designed for solar charge cycles. Car
batteries, fork-lift batteries and golf cart batteries are designed for different charge/discharge
cycles and do not last as long in solar systems. There is a standard solar battery called an "L-16"
6-volt battery. It is large, about 100 pounds, and is a reliable workhorse for your solar system. I
have eight of them wired in sets of four for 24-volt output to my inverter. That configuration
changes depending on how many panels you have.

BATTERY TECHNOLOGY IS DIVERSE AND CHANGING

There is a new type of solar system battery called "Salt Water Batteries". They look far superior
to standard lead-acid batteries. They take much deeper charge cycles and last far longer. I saw
them at http://realgoods.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=salt+water+batteries. They appear more
expensive at first, but they actually cost less per year of use because you don't need as many of
them and they last longer. I have not looked at Tesla's products or other battery solutions, but it
is worth looking at any new technology. Never go for the hype or the promise, go for the
warranty, the specs and the unpaid legitimate testimonials.

HOW BIG SHOULD YOUR SYSTEM BE

I have a small system, 24 60-watt panels, total of 1440 watt output on the sunniest of days. As a
single person who doesn't mind conserving I live on that just fine. With more occupants and
more consumption you'll need a bigger system. A normal family residence in the USA usually
uses the equivalent of 3000 to 6000 watts of solar generating power. Some power companies
will recommend 14,000 watts for a four bedroom house. So, how rich are you and how much
power do you want to consume? \
 If you like big central AC/heating units, big refrigerators and lots of electric appliances and
gadgets you are looking at a major investment, probably over $50,000.00 in 2016 dollars. If you
minimize your consumption through fewer devices and conservation living habits, then
$25,000.00 should get you a decent system. My system was under $12,000.00 because I found
some bargains, did a lot of the work myself and adjusted my living habits to the 1440 watt
system scale.
It can be very complicated to try and figure out the current draw and duration of use of every
electric device you own, which is the technically correct way to size your system. It is far easier
to build as much power generation as you can afford, then conserve to make up any shortfall. If
you just have to have a lot of electric devices and usage, do some calculations, otherwise you
could be way off on your system size and cost.
Each component in your system is effected by the maximum voltage outputs of your solar and
wind turbines. The system should be “balanced” where every part is sized for the parts around
it.

WIND AND SOLAR IS A GREAT COMBINATION

I strongly recommend looking at a solar/wind hybrid system if you have any wind at all, and
especially if you do not have good year-round sunlight. Usually that entails using separate (2)
charge controllers which "talk" to each other to properly balance and manage your charging
loads from the solar and wind. The seller will advise you on system configuration. It is much
easier to design the hybrid system from the beginning than to add wind power later. The solar
power companies and wind turbine companies sometimes see each other as competition. You
may have to be insistent that you want both and try to find suppliers who have experience in
hybrid systems.

Solar panels should not have any shadows on them from any object during daylight hours. They
will be tilted toward the equator to maximize solar exposure.

Wind turbines need to be high up with no trees or structures blocking the wind. In urban settings
it may be better to look for a “Vertical Axis” turbine which may be quieter and more acceptable
looking in a dense neighborhood.

FINDING SUPPLIERS
By looking at industrial applications such as telcom stations and weather monitoring you will
find off grid solar equipment will be part of those installations. Those companies may give you
referrals to their suppliers. If you do a web search for, say, ("[phone company name] remote
solar power system") you may find the company that sold the system to the phone company.

CONTAINMENT AND HOUSING FOR YOUR SYSTEM

Your batteries should have a place to live where they can vent outside but never freeze or get
too hot. Lead acid batteries out-gas hydrogen, so they need a vent in the top of the room. If the
batteries are in the garage or where people occupy, it is best to build a box to contain the
batteries and vent the gasses out with a small flue, say, a 4 inch or 8 centimeter diameter pipe. I
built a small shed for my batteries, charge controller, inverter and service panel and I simply put
 screen vents along the eves of the shed.
I am in a rural area so I had space to build a free-standing rack so I never have to worry about
roof maintenance under the panels. I used what we call "uni-strut", a metal racking post that is
made for structural electrical support and is very affordable. I sank 9 struts into cement and cut
them to the sun angle, then I used more uni-strut to bolt a frame together to support the panels.
Keep your panels as close as possible to your batteries and your points of power consumption to
save on cable costs and lost power. This is especially true of the DC power coming from your
panels to the batteries because the cables for DC must be bigger than AC.

SUN TRACKERS
I don't recommend powered sun-tracking systems because they are expensive, require
maintenance, are not always reliable, and do not provide very much extra power. It is better to
spend the extra money on more solar panels. Position your rack at a good average angle for
year-round exposure. If your location is more than 30 degrees south of the equator you may
want to look into seasonal adjustment of your rack angle. In cooler climates the tracking is more
important. I am at 33 degrees latitude north from the equator and I do not have any adjustment
for sun angle or seasons. It does just fine.

ELECTROMAGNETIC SENSITIVITY
If you have electromagnetic sensitivities in your family, be careful to get a good "clean" inverter
and make sure all your wiring and grounding are top notch. 15 to 30 percent of the population is
electromagnetic sensitive. Many of them don't even know it. All of the new wireless systems are
making more of us sensitive to RF and electric fields all the time. Electromagnetic sensitivity is
real and those who are sensitive do get sick around RF and electric fields.

SOMETIMES HAVING SEVERAL SMALLER SYSTEMS IS A GOOD IDEA

I personally have some small 12 volt solar systems, a single 100-watt panel, each on a small
charge controller and a single car battery, to provide DC lighting for outbuildings. With the new
efficient LED's, one of those systems is plenty to light the inside of a 40-foot (13 meter)
shipping container storage shed with four 10-watt fixtures. These systems are completely
separate from my main solar system. For these small systems I can use DC power and don't
have to have the inverter. That saves power and saves running long lines to the outbuildings.

GET EXPERT HELP ON THE TECHNICAL STUFF

Watch out for your wire gauges. As I mentioned, the DC lines have to be bigger, especially the
cables from the batteries to the inverter. The company I mentioned above (WholesaleSolar.com)
provides a wiring diagram for your electrician when you buy your system components from
them.
I am not a technician. It is wise to get an hour or two of consultation with an off-grid solar/wind
system expert, even if you have an electrician, to make sure your system is balanced, well
integrated and there are no weak points. The equipment sellers can provide some of this
expertise.
MONEY CAN BE SAVED
There are some components, such as solar panel mounting hardware, which can be pretty
expensive. Often you will find some standard hardware that will do the job just as well. You just
have to be careful to have everything secure and not stressing the glass panels.

PLASTIC PANELS – BEWARE

I do not recommend any polymer materials in your panels. Yes, plastic panels are cheaper, but
you will find that when there is any plastic in your panels the warranty goes from 20 years to 5
years. Plastic does not like sunlight. If you don't mind buying and replacing panels four times as
often you may want that lower entry price.

DUST AND BIRD POOP

Keep an eye on your panels and have a hose and mop on a pole to rinse the dust off periodically
(pool cleaning mops are perfect). The solar panels can lose 10 or 15% of their production if they
are dusty or filmy for any reason. I have gone months without dusting, if they look clean and
shiny they should be outputting near peak.

MAINTENANCE
The regular maintenance is very little. In my system I check my batteries once a month or so
with a standard voltage tester. All batteries should read about the same. If one is a volt or two
low, it may need to be refurbished or replaced. I have eight six-volt lead-acid batteries and a
good charge controller. I look for voltage on each battery to be about 6.3+ volts. You only need
to check that about once a month or if you get a battery fault message from your controller or
monitor. The most important thing is to make sure all batteries a full of distilled water. You can
buy that in any supermarket. Checking water once a month should be plenty unless you are
doing heavy deep cycles on your batteries every day.

BACK-UP GENERATOR
If your weather is not ideal for solar/wind power generation it is a good idea to have a back-up
generator. If there are occupants on medical devices or relying on fixtures and appliances the
backup generator is important. The solar systems and higher-end generators are usually made to
work together so when the batteries get low the generator automatically takes over. The
generator takes more maintenance than the solar system. For instance, if it sits a long time
without running the gas can go bad. I don't have a generator hooked up to my solar system
because my weather is pretty sunny and if the batteries are low and my controller shuts down
with a "battery fault" I can survive without electricity for a few days. To preserve the life of
your lead-acid batteries, it is very important NOT to deep cycle them, so you want your system
to shut down if your batteries are low. I do have a portable generator for emergencies, and for
high-demand use such as using power tools for long periods.
If you install the automatic back-up generator, then design your power station shelter for that to
manage the noise, vibration, exhaust and the additional space for the generator. The generator
 should be adjacent to your inverter, and both your inverter and generator should be equipped to
do the automatic switch.

SOME ESSENTIAL ITEMS

Solar systems can get techie and tricky, but here are some of the basic ingredients you'll need:
11. Solar Panels and Cable Connectors.
12. Support Rack and Hardware for solar panels.
13. Wind turbine (recommended unless you have good sun all year. If your budget is tight,
make a choice, fewer solar panels or no wind turbine? It depends on the climate and
your exposure to wind and sun in your particular location).
14. Batteries & Jumper Cables. (Shop local sources).
15. Bus Box (usually the cables from the panels and wind turbine need to be combined in
certain ways your before going to the charge controller so that voltages are right. Let
your electrician help you with this. This is a metal box that looks like a service panel
box and has rows of connectors for your cables.)
16. Charge Controller (make sure you have the right kind if you have both wind and solar
power, you may need two charge controllers) (Make sure that charge controller has the
capacity to handle as much amperage as it can possibly receive.)
17. Remote Monitor (Not a TV, just a small digital data display, this can be installed in a
convenient location so you don't have to go to the shed to check your system status).
18. Inverter (to convert your battery DC power to AC power for home use. This is one of
the biggest and most expensive parts, shop carefully).
19. Tie Box (for between your batteries and your Inverter with a big “kill switch” for
maintenance and emergencies).
20. Service Panel (just like on any house. This has all the breaker switches on the house
lines.)
21. Cables, Wire, Connectors, PVC Conduit (make sure you get the right gauge wire for
each position, a good electrician should know. The conduit pipes should be oversize in
diameter so you can easily run your groups of cables.)

SEE YOURSELF AS YOUR OWN POWER COMPANY

If you are putting in your first system, keep it simple and make sure you understand what every
part is doing. You will be the power company now, you can't just call the utility company and
have them fix things. Your knowledge and diligence checking your system periodically will be
what makes it work smoothly with no disruptions to your power.
When you are off-grid, expect occasional feelings of euphoria when you are reminded that you
will never have an electric bill again and you will never be subject to the hazards, harm and
privacy invasion of the unsafe and unlawful electronic utility meters and the abusive policies
and tactics of electric utility companies!
Feel free to contact me with any questions!
Best regards,
Jerry Day
FreedomTaker.com
(USA) 818-843-3667 (cell)
(USA) 818-319-4282 (office)
[email protected]