BTLE 30233

CLOTHING
CONSTRUCTION
BBTLEDHE 3-1
Monday (5:00 – 8:00 PM)
 UNIT II: Non-Automatic Tools UNIT III: Sewing Machine
for Garment Manufacturing
 2.1 Measuring Tools  3.1 History of Sewing Machine
 2.2 Marking Tools  3.2 Types of Sewing Machine
 2.3 Cutting Tools  3.3 Parts and Functions of Sewing
Machine
 2.4 Sewing Tools
Topics to be  2.5 Miscellaneous Tools
 3.4 Operation of Sewing Machine
 3.5 Care and Maintenance of
discussed: Sewing Machine
 3.6 Problems of Stitch Formation,
Problems of Pucker and Problems
of Damage to the Fabric along
the Stitch Line
 3.7 Sewing area
 UNIT II: Non-Automatic Tools UNIT III: Sewing Machine
for Garment Manufacturing
 3.1 Identify different parts of
 2.1 Select suitable non- given sewing machine
automatic garment
manufacturing tool for given  3.2 Use sewing machine to
application perform given operation on
fabric
LEARNING  2.2 Use appropriate non-
automatic garment  3.3 Maintain sewing machine as
OBJECTIVES manufacturing tool for given
application
per recommended procedure

 2.3 Maintain non-automatic

garment manufacturing tool
as per given procedure
 1. MEASURING TAPE
A flexible sewing tape measure usually
measures about 60” long and 5/8 inches wide. It is
generally reversible with inches on one side and
centimeters on the other to help take a more accurate
Measuring measurement.

Tools Because of its flexibility, it is a must-have tool

for taking accurate body measurements.
 2. TAILOR’S SQUARE (L-SQUARE)
This scale has two sides – it usually measures
24” x 14” and is used to mark fabric straight, corners
correctly. It can help to keep the grainline of the fabric
correct.
Measuring Keep the scale on the fabric and align against
Tools the edges so that the other edge becomes completely
straight.
 3. FRENCH CURVE
This is a ruler with a variety of uses in sewing –
primarily it is used to shape armholes and necklines.

4. SET SQUARE
Measuring It is used as a guide when drawing geometric
Tools shapes such as squares and rectangles. This is
something you will do often when making tote bags,
make up bags, cushions, quilts etc.
Without this tool, you will never be able to
create a true square, always a random four sided
uneven shape.
 5. OTHER CURVED RULERS
a. Hip Curve

b. Leg Curve

Measuring c. Arm Curve

Tools
Hip shape scale/ curve ruler; leg curve ruler;
arm curve are some rulers available in the market that
can come to be of use when drafting and marking the
hip side line, inseam in pants, arm curve – the open
edge of the sleeves etc.
 1. TAILOR’S CHALK
These triangles have been a
staple in the tailoring industry for a
long time. Use the long blades of
the triangle to mark dart lines and
the tip for notches and circles.
Marking Then brush the marks out of your
fabric when you’re done.
Tools 2. CHALK CARTRIDGE PEN
If you need a more strongly defined line, use this pen tool
as the marks still wipe or wash out and you can replace the
chalk sticks with different colors.
3. CHALK PENCILS
These white and colored pencils are designed to brush
easily from fabric and just like a regular pencil can be easily
sharpened to a point. They’re nice for heavier fabric like
canvas or denim and, when paired with a good ruler, you can
get crisp straight lines.
 4. TAILOR’S BEESWAX/ WAX
CRAYON
This is an oddly shaped
crayon. The idea is that the
wax will melt away under an
iron. This is best on wool and
Marking suiting fabric.
Tools 5. AIR-ERASABLE PENS (DISAPPEARING INK)
They come in bright colors that show up well on light
fabric and the marks typically disappear completely with
a light blot of water, touch of the iron, or with time.
6. CHACO LINER PENS
It leaves a very thin, precise line of powder. It rolls
easily and won’t drag or distort fabric. Plus they come in
a variety of colors, brush out of your material and you
never have to sharpen them.
Marking 7. TRACING WHEEL
Tools It is a pizza cutter like marking tool. You will keep a
carbon sheet in between the pattern and fabric. Now
trace over the lines of the pattern with the tiny wheel.
The lines will get traced to your fabric as small dots with
the color of your carbon.
The marks will go off with a wet rubbing; easy to see
and not so easily removed as chalk. Test before using, of
course as carbon may not go off completely from some
fabric.
 1. FABRIC SHEARS
These will be one of your most used
and important cutting tools for sewing.
The fabric scissors (also called shears)
should be sharp enough to cut through
several layers of fabric at the one time.
This means they will need to be medium
Cutting Tools to large-sized.
2. ALL-PURPOSE (CHEAP) SCISSORS
These are used to cut paper patterns. Sewing
patterns in particular which are printed on bond paper
can dull your expensive fabric shears.
3. THREAD SNIPPERS
Thread snippers have no handles, so they quickly
snip by pressing the blades together. The added
advantage of thread snippers is that they are great for
cutting the ends of stitching close to the fabric.
 4. EMBROIDERY SCISSORS
Small with thin blades, they are
designed to snip away stray threads
close to the fabric. Modern pairs may
look a little plainer but still, do a great
job of snipping threads.
Cutting Tools
5. ROTARY CUTTERS
These are mainly used to cut straight edges
such as squares for quilting. It consists of a handle
with a circular blade that rotates.
You will need a self-healing cutting mat
underneath when cutting, so you don’t mark your
table. The cutting mats usually have grid lines on
them to accurately cut squares.
 6. PINKING SHEARS
Pinking shears have a zigzag
edge instead of a straight edge like
regular scissors. As well as looking
pretty they stop the edges of fabric
from fraying and are great for
trimming curved seams.
Cutting Tools
7. LEFT-HANDED SCISSORS
If you are left-handed consider investing in a specialty
pair of scissors for lefties designed to make life more
comfortable. The primary difference between left and right
handed scissors is the way the blades are connected.
8. SEAM RIPPERS
A seam ripper is a very useful tool for cutting threads.
They have one longer pointed end and another shorter end
with a red ball on it to prevent the fabric from ripping by
accident.
7. LEFT-HANDED SCISSORS
If you are left-handed consider investing in a specialty
pair of scissors for lefties designed to make life more
comfortable. The primary difference between left and right
handed scissors is the way the blades are connected.
3. THREAD SNIPPERS
Thread snippers have no handles, so they quickly snip by
pressing the blades together. The added advantage of thread
snippers is that they are great for cutting the ends of stitching
close to the fabric.
 1. BOBBIN AND BOBBIN CASE
A bobbin case is a small but complex piece of
the machine. It is made to a required size and set of
specifications for a particular sewing machine.
The purpose of the bobbin case is to support the
Sewing Tools bobbin in the sewing machine so that the machine
stitches can be formed.
A bobbin is made to a required size and set of
specifications for a particular bobbin case.
If the bobbin becomes damaged in any way the
machine stitch will not form correctly.
Sewing Tools

Bobbin Case
Bobbin
Sewing Tools

Bobbin Case
Bobbin
 2. MACHINE SEWING NEEDLES
❖ Universal Needles. As the name suggests, these are
the most commonly used needle. They can be used
with woven fabrics, synthetics and some knit fabrics.

Sewing Tools ❖ Ball Point Needles. Ball point needles have a more
rounded tip than a universal needle which pushes
the fabric fibres apart rather than cutting them. This
makes ball point needles ideal for working with rib
knits, interlock, cotton knits, fleece, double knit and
generally most knit fabrics because it prevents them
from running or laddering as a result of stitching.
 2. MACHINE SEWING NEEDLES
❖ Stretch Needles. A stretch needle has what is called a
‘scarf’ which allows extra room for the hook to pass close
by and prevents skipped stitches.

❖ Sharps Needles. If you’re a quilter working with several

Sewing Tools layers of cotton and wadding or you’re working with
densely woven fabrics such as silk and micro fibre a
sharps needle should be used.

❖ Quilting Needles. These are also designed to be used

with several layers of fabric and wadding because of its
reinforced shaft, however, they are much shorter in
length than the sharps needle to allow quilters to achieve
quick and even stitching.
 2. MACHINE SEWING NEEDLES
❖ Jeans Needles. Denim and other densely woven fabrics
such as twill, canvas and heavy linens often used for
workwear are suited in this type of needle. Threads such
as synthetic or blends, 100% polyester, heavier top
stitching threads and cotton wrapped polyester should be
chosen when working with these needles and fabrics.
Sewing Tools
❖ Leather Needles. These are often known as chisel point
needles because of its point that looks and acts like a
chisel when in use.

❖ Metafil Needles. This is ideal when sewing or

embroidering on woven or knitted fabrics. Metallic
needles have an extra large eye meaning these fancy
threads feed through more freely and won’t shred or split
as a result of the sewing motion.
 2. MACHINE SEWING NEEDLES
❖ Embroidery Needles. These are designed with a wider
eye to allow threads such as rayon, polyester or cotton
machine embroidery threads to pass freely and easily
when embroidering.
❖ Top Stitch Needles. These have an extra sharp point
Sewing Tools which will pierce all types of fabric easily and the large
eye allows thick top stitching thread to be used.
❖ Twin and Triple Needles. These needles are used for pin
tucking and decorative stitches and need to be used at a
reduced speed. They are not compatible with all
machines so always check your manual before using.
❖ Wing Needles. Used in conjunction with the special stitch
options on your machine, wing needle will produce holes
in the fabric to replicate drawn thread work.
Sewing Tools

Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle

 3. HAND SEWING NEEDLES
Hand needles are a much simpler design. A hand
sewing needle has an “eye” at one end with a point at the
opposite end. The length of a hand will vary between type
and size.
Sewing Tools Typically, a larger needle is longer than a smaller
needle. The size and shape of the “eye” will also vary
between types.
Just like machine needles, the success of your
project depends on selecting the correct needle for the
fabric, the thread and the type of hand sewing.
 1. Thimble
2. Pin cushions
3. Thread
4. Ironing board
Miscellaneous 5. Iron
Tools 6. Bobbin winder
 1. Thimble
2. Pin cushions
3. Thread
4. Ironing board
Miscellaneous 5. Iron
Tools 6. Bobbin winder
UNIT 3:
Sewing Machine
  1830 – An early sewing machine was designed and
manufactured by Berthelemy Thimmonnier of France,
who received a patent for it by the French government.
 1831 – Some 200 rioting tailors, who feared that the
History of invention would ruin their businesses, destroyed the
machines.
Sewing  1832 – A decisive improvement was embodied in a sewing
Machine machine built by Walter Hunt of New York which was
patented.
 1846 – Elias Howe of Spencer, Massachusetts, patented
another version of sewing machine.
 Isaac Merrritt Singer – he is now the largest
manufacturer of sewing machine in the US.
 MECHANICAL/ DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINES
 These are also called as manual machines/ tailoring
machine/ treadle sewing machine/ domestic sewing
machines where the basic settings are done manually by
the user.
Types of
 These machines are best suitable for the beginners who
Sewing want to learn sewing from basics.
Machine  These are simple with very few features, inexpensive and
also easily repairable.
 Looking into its features – it has a built in presser foot,
adjustable stitch length, bottom loading bobbin, adjustable
tension, single (straight and reverse) stitch.
 Mechanical sewing machines are not suitable for sewing
thick fabrics like denim and leather.
 MECHANICAL/ DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINES
 The sewing machine’s body type depends on the model
and its manufacturing company.
 Mostly they are made of aluminum body (black color).
Types of
 This domestic old model sewing machine can be stand
Sewing based or table based.
Machine  Some latest mechanical sewing machines have been
designed with few advanced features and also a small
LED screen to select stitch pattern.
 Comparatively, these mechanical sewing machines are
easy to handle, as these machines don’t need any user’s
experience in sewing, best for learners and household
purpose tailoring.
 ELECTRONIC SEWING MACHINE
 These sewing machines are the combination of
mechanical sewing machine and computerized sewing
machine.
Types of  These are for expertise sewing. These are free arm and
Sewing motorized machines with light weight, compact size and
also some models have an LCD screen to choose the
Machine patterns accordingly.
 Warranty for electronic sewing machines matters a lot, as
these machines need a technicians for repairs unlike
mechanical sewing machines
 Depending on the model, some uses electricity and some
uses battery. Heavy duty machines generally use
electricity.
 ELECTRONIC SEWING
MACHINE
 These are useful for -  quilting
 good quality of stitching  built in needle threader
Types of  minimum of 7 in-built  top loading drop in bobbin
stitch capability
Sewing  Embroidering
 auto tripping bobbin
 automatic thread cutter
Machine  Hemming  twin needle compatibility
 blind stitch  adjustable stitch length and
 buttonhole stitch width
 hemming zip fixing  adjustable presser foot
 Smocking  adjustable needle
 reverse-stitch lever positioning
 stretch stitching  attachment option for other
features
 COMPUTERIZED SEWING MACHINE
 Computerized sewing machines are high technology
sewing machines which can be connected to the internet,
computer or design loaded cards.
Types of  These machines are best suitable for industrial purpose. It
has inbuild stitches capacity of a minimum of 50 and
Sewing maximum of 200.
Machine  These are big size machines with multiple needles and
multiple spool spinners for different color of thread spools
for embroidering, sewing, quilting, smocking and many
more crafting.
 This type will have a special feature called Autopilot
stitching mode – where machine automatically controls the
speed (number of stitches per minute), thread tension and
stitch strength.
 COMPUTERIZED SEWING MACHINE
 Computerized sewing machines are best suitable for small
textile industries where garments are designed and also for
skilled persons who sew regularly and have their hands on
varieties of sewing patterns and techniques.
Types of  These machines are heavy-duty machines; any type of fabric
can be handled.
Sewing  Any pattern can be downloaded from the internet and can be
designed and also patterns with, you can be designed through
Machine the connecting machine with computer chips.
 Expensive, prices vary according to features the particular
model provides.
 Needs an instructor to know how to use it, generally the
manufacture company of these machines provides your
complete guide/ instruction DVD or tutorial about the features
and how to use it.
 Technical issues like connectivity problems, loading of data and
errors cannot be easily corrected.
 EMBROIDERY SEWING MACHINE
 Embroidery machines are meant for designing
different patterns of embroidery on the fabric.
Types of  Beginners better choose a zigzag machine for
Sewing basic embroidering. Whereas professional or
skilled level people choose electronic sewing
Machine machine model which have embroidering feature
with varieties of patterns.
 These machines are expensive in comparison of
mechanical sewing machines, maintaining these
machines is also less expensive.
 OVERLOCKER SEWING MACHINE or SERGER
 Overlock sewing machines are also known as Sergers.
 These machines are used to seam or overlock the fabric.

Types of  These machines are for joining or sewing the edges of the
fabric together.
Sewing  These are used by professionals or tailors generally to
Machine give the finishing look for the garments.
 Garment industries use this machine for edging the fabrics
like edging napkins, elastic hemming or elastic seaming in
lingerie designing, edging curtains, overlocking on pillow
covers and many more decorative crafting.
 OVERLOCKER SEWING MACHINE or SERGER
 Overlocker has inbuilt cutter, a blade to cut the
uneven edges of the fabric while edging the
Types of garment or textile.

Sewing  Overlocker stitch patterns depend on number of

thread it uses single threaded overlock stitch, then
Machine from 2-5 threaded overlock stitches.
 The width and length of the stitch can be adjusted
by the user choice.
 Generally, overlockers are used in textile or
garment industry, these machines are very fast
and time saving machines.
 Parts and
Functions of
Sewing
Machine
 Change the needles regularly.
 With or without use, needles tend to become dull over
time, and dull needles are synonyms with skipped
stitches, lopped threads, fabric pulls, and even
Care and potential damage to the machine.
Maintenance  You need to select a needle a needle after
considering the weave and weight of the fabric you
of Sewing want to stitch.
Machine Adequately oil the machine.
 Regular oiling is important to keep your sewing
machine in top shape and smooth as there are a lot of
interval moving parts that can get jammed or start
rusting.
 It is important to regularly use only sewing machine oil
as this will not stain your garments and is clear.
 Always cover your sewing machine.
 The only way to protecting your machine from dust is to
keep it covered when not in use by storing it under a dust
Care and cover or in a hard case.

Maintenance
Don’t forget to keep tightening the screws.
of Sewing
 Over time, the screws of our sewing machine tend to
Machine loosen. Not only do loose screws make the sewing
process time consuming, but it can also show lead to
errors.
 Every now and then, keep tightening the screws to make
sure that the machine is held properly.
 Don’t clean every single part of the machine at once.
 It is important to follow the instruction that are printed in a
user’s manual that comes along with your sewing
machine.
Care and  If you don’t clean one part of the machine at a time, it can
Maintenance get confusing with the sheer amount of screws and parts
because though a sewing machine may look simple, the
of Sewing interior can be very complicated.
Machine Opt for annual servicing
 Always get your sewing machine professionally serviced
every single year even when you have a cheaper sewing
machine.
 The expertise and experience that professionals have in
terms of understanding the timing and tension, can be
great for the machine.
 There are three major sewing problems:
1. Problems of stitch formation – which gives rise to poor
seam appearance and performance
2. Problems of pucker – it is a wrinkled appearance along a
seam in an otherwise smooth fabric. It generally appears
Sewing as if there is too much fabric and not enough thread in
Problems the seam.

3. Problems of damage to the fabric along the stitch line –

there are two kinds of damage:
1. mechanical damage
2. needle heating damage
Sewing 1. Problems of stitch formation
Problems a. Slipped stitches – arise from the hook or loops in the
machine not picking up the loop in the needle thread.
b. Staggered stitches – can be caused by yarns in the
fabric deflecting the needle away from the straight line of
stitching, giving a poor appearance.
c. Unbalanced stitches – it can reduce the potential stretch
in a seam in a knitted fabric and may lead to seam cracking.
d. Variable stitch density – it arises from insufficient foot
pressure in a drop feed system, causing uneven feeding of
the fabric through the machine.
 2. Problems of pucker
Causes of Pucker:
a. Seam pucker due to differential fabric stretch

Sewing b. Differential pucker caused by fabric dimensional

instability
Problems
c. Seam pucker due to extension in the sewing
threads
d. Seam pucker due to sewing thread shrinkage
e. Seam pucker due to structural jamming
f. Seam pucker due to mismatched patterns
 3. Problems of damage to the fabric along the stitch line
a. Mechanical damage
 Needles can strike and break yarns and burst the
loops in knitted fabrics. For this appropriate set and
ball point needles are necessary.
Sewing
 Needles should always be as small as possible.
Problems
 Sometimes the combination of the machine speed and
nature of the fabric prevents the yarns from moving out
of the way of the needle sufficiently to avoid damage.
 To solve the problems either reduce the speed – which
means lesser production or ensure that the fabric is
adequately lubricated.
 3. Problems of damage to the fabric along the stitch line
b. Needle heating damage
 Needles heating occurs as a result of friction between
the needle and the fabric being sewn.
Sewing  In high speed sewing of dense material, temperatures
as high as 300 degrees or even 350 degrees can be
Problems reached.
 A this temperature it is possible that the needle may
suffer damage and lose its hardness.
 Natural fibres in a fabric or thread can withstand these
temperatures for a short time.
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