Limits of accuracy and

Centre
improvements
p on the
de coopération
internationale
en recherche
HVI cotton fiber test
agronomique
pour le
développement Cotton, from the plant
t th
to the final
fi l product
d t
Jean Paul Gourlot
Jean-Paul
Cirad-ca, Cotton Technology Laboratory
 Plan of presentation

• Introduction
• Different ways of fibers characterization
• Appoint about the standardization process
p
• How does work an HVI
• An example of relation between fiber and
yarn quality
• Conclusions
C l i

2
 Cotton plant cycle

60 d
days

7 days 55 days
3
Cotton plant growth

From
Cirad
‘C
‘Cotons’’
software

4
 Harvesting and ginning

Cotton bolls harvest Cotton ginning

R ll
Roller

Saw 5
 Statistics and economy

40 700
35 Surface
600
((millions ha))
30 500
Yield
25
(kg/ha) 400
20
300
15
10 200
World production 100
5
((millions of tons))
0 0
19 /25
19 /31
19 /37
19 /43
19 /49
19 /55
19 /61
19 /67
19 /73
19 /79
19 /85
19 /91
20 /97

3
/0
24
30
36
42
48
54
60
66
72
78
84
90
96
02
19

6
 Cotton cycle* (1/3)

Seeds * From GOURLOT J.-P. et al 1999,

R h h ett dé
Recherche développement
l t en
technologie : mesurer et améliorer
Sowing la qualité des produits du cotonnier,
créer de nouveaux débouchés,
A i lt
Agriculture ett dé
développement,
l t
n°22, Juin 1999, ISSN 1249-9951,
Cropping (IPM, fertilizers …) pp. 90-113.

Harvesting Commercial parameters

Length,
g , Length
g unif,, Strength
g
Gi i
Ginning
Grade, Micronaire
Average and variability
Seeds Fibers

Bales Samples for quality control

Oil
Flour, …
Grouping / quality Marketing 7
 Cotton cycle (2/3)

Opening / cleaning / mixing Strength, fineness

Strength fineness,
Maturity, Length,
Other fibers Card
Length
g unif., p
pollutions
Average, and variability
Drawing frame
Strength,
St th fineness,
fi
Ring spinning Rotor spinning
Maturity, Length,
Y
Yarn cleaning
l i Length unif
unif.,
pollutions
Preparation to weaving Yarn strength and eveness
Knitting SCF, yarn imperfections
Weaving
g
Maturity
M t it
Dying / Finishing / Clothing Easy care
8
 Seeds
Sowing Cotton cycle (3/3)
Cropping (IPM, fertilizers …)
Harvesting Commercial parameters
Ginning
g Length, Length unif, Strength
Grade, Micronaire
Seeds Fibers Average and variability
Oil Bales Quality control
Fl
Flour, … Grouping / quality Marketing

Opening/cleaning/mixing
Strength, fineness,
Maturity, Length,
Other fibers Card
Length unif., pollutions
Average, and variability
g frame
Drawing
Strength, fineness,
Ring spinning Rotor spinning
Maturity, Length,
Yarn cleaning Length
g unif.,,
pollutions

Preparation to weaving Yarn strength and eveness

Knitting SCF, yarn imperfections
Weaving
Maturity 9
Dying / Finishing / Clothing Easy care
 Fiber quality development

30 Length 6

Walll thickneess (miccrons)

Primary
25 wall 5
diiameterr (micron)
nd

Perimeter
(mm) an

20 4
15 3
Length

10 2
Maturity
L

5 1
0 Secondary wall 0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Age
g of the boll (days)
( y)
10
 Fiber constitution

C
Constituants
tit t P
Percentage
t
Cellulosis 95.0
Proteins 1.6
Waxes 0.9
Physiological sugars 0.3
Other 22
2.2

11
 Fiber quality measurement

Measured
length

perimeter
or fineness Wall thickness
or maturity
i

‘Micronaire’
Color + contaminants
Mike,, IM
Tensile behavior
12
 Fiber quality measurement

Could be measured
• Cellulose types
• Wax content
• Flexion / flexibility
• ‘Curling’ / crimp

Reversals Spiral ...

13
 Plan of presentation

• Introduction
• Different ways of fibers characterization
• A point about the standardization process
• How does work an HVI
• An example of relation between fiber and
yarn quality
• Conclusions

14
 Fiber quality measurement

Why do we measure length ?

length Define what type of final product will be made

out of the fibers
Check the settings of ginning equipments
Define a commercial price of the fibers
Allow settings of the processing equipments

15
 Fiber quality measurement

Manual :
length
pulling => commercial length

comb sorter => length diagrams (W, N)

=> ML, CV%, SFC Could be measured

16
 Fiber quality measurement

Instrumental :
with classical instruments :
Fibrograph => SL2.5%,
SL2 5% SL 50%,
50% UR%
length
Almeter 101 => diagrams (W, N)
=> ML
ML, CV%
CV%, SFC

17
 Fiber quality measurement

Instrumental :
with classical instruments :
Fibrograph => SL2.5%, SL 50%, UR%
length Almeter 101 => diagrams (W, N)
=> ML, CV%, SFC
with High Volume Instrument (HVI)
=> UHML,, ML,, UI%,, SFI

18
 Fiber quality measurement

Instrumental :
with classical instruments :
Fibrograph => SL2.5%, SL 50%, UR%
Almeter 101 => diagrams (W(W, N)
length
=> ML, CV%, SFC
with High Volume Instrument (HVI)
=> UHML, ML, UI%, SFI
with Advanced Fiber Information System
(AFIS)
length (W, N)
=> ML, CV, UQL, SFC

19
 Fiber quality measurement
Length histograms on 2 seeds (AFIS)

20
18
16
14 Seed 1
12 Seed 2
% 10
8
6
4
2
0
4
8
12
16
20
24
28
32
36
40
44
Lengh group (mm)
20
Mean and variability parameters
 Fiber quality measurement
Length diagram (AFIS)

100
90 Diagram
80
70
60
% 50
40
30
20
10
0
4
8
12
16
20
24
28
32
36
40
44
Lengh group (mm)
21
 Fibre length
Part of the optical sensor

Capteur
p
optique

22
 Fiber quality measurement
Length Fibrogram

100
90 Fibrogram
80
70
60
% 50
40
30
20
10
0
4

12
2

16
6

20
0

24
4

28
8

32
2

36
6

40
0

44
4
Lengh group (mm)
Mean Length Upper Half ML
Uniformity Index % = ML . 100 23
UHML
 Fiber quality measurement
Length Fibrogram

100
90 Fibrogram
80
70
60
% 50
40
30
20
10
0
4

12
2

16
6

20
0

24
4

28
8

32
2

36
6

40
0

44
4
Lengh group (mm)
SL 50 % SL 2.5 %
UR% = SL 50 % . 100 24
SL 2.5 %
Fiber quality measurement
Length parameters

SL 2.5 ~ UHML ~ Pulling

22 – 40 mm

SL 50 % <> ML
10 – 18 mm 18 – 30 mm

UR % <> UI %
38 – 50 % 78 – 85 %
25
 Fiber quality measurement

Why do we measure Fineness and

Maturity ?
perimeter
i t
Predict the number of fibers per yarn cross-
section
=> yarn strength and eveness
wall thickness Chemical treatments and dye consumption
Dye uptake ability

26
 Fiber quality measurement

Manual :
perimeter

using microscope on longitudinal fibers

wall thickness using microscope on fibers sections

27
 Fiber quality measurement

Manual :
with classical instruments
Fibronaire => Micronaire
perimeter

wall thickness

28
 Fiber quality measurement

Manual :
with classical instruments
Fibronaire => Micronaire

perimeter
with Fineness Maturity Tester (FMT)
IM, MR, PM%, H, HS
wall thickness

29
 Fiber quality measurement

Manual :
with classical instruments
Fibronaire => Micronaire
with Fineness Maturity Tester (FMT)
perimeter
IM, MR, PM%, H, HS

wall thicknesswith
High Volume Instrument (HVI)
Micronaire

30
 Fiber quality measurement

Manual :
with classical instruments
Fibronaire => Micronaire
with
ith Fineness
Fi Maturity
M t it Tester
T t (FMT)
perimeter IM, MR, PM%, H, HS
with High
g Volume Instrument (HVI)
( )
Micronaire
wall thickness
with
i h Advanced
Ad d Fiber
Fib Information
I f i
System (AFIS)
Di t ib ti off Diameter,
Distribution Di t
Theta, MR, H
31
 Fiber quality measurement

Recorded results:
IM : micronaire [2, 7]
MR : Maturity Ratio [0, 1.2]
perimeter
PM% : Percent Mature fibers [[0, 100]]
H : Linear Fineness (mtex) [120, 350]
wall thickness
Hs : Standard Fineness (mtex) [120,
[120 400]

Hs = H (tex = grams/1000 m)
MR
32
 Micronaire, maturity and fineness

Fine Large

M t
Mature
perimeter

wall thickness

Immature

=> Some combinaisons of MR and H

correspond
d to
t close
l IM for
f very
33
different fibres
 Micronaire, maturity and fineness

IM = 4.1
41

perimeter

wall thickness

MR = 1.04 MR = 0.67
H = 150 H = 220
Hs = 144 Hs = 328
34
 Fiber quality measurement

perimeter

wall thickness

35
 Relation between IM, MR and Hs

MR Hs=120 140 160 180 200 220

12
1.2
240
Fine
1.1 260
300
1.0

09
0.9

0.8
Coarse
0.7 (Variety dependent)

0.6

0.5
IM
0

0
2.

2.

3.

3.

4.

4.

5.

5.

6.

6.

7.
36
MR² =(3.86 x IM² + 18.16 x IM + 13) / Hs PM = (MR - 0.2) x (1.565 - 0.471 x MR) x 100
 Relation between IM, MR and Hs

MR Hs=120 140 160 180 200 220

12
1.2
240
1.1 260
300
1.0
Acceptable
p maturity
y range
g
09
0.9

0.8

0.7 Premium
range
0.6

0.5
IM
0

0
2.

2.

3.

3.

4.

4.

5.

5.

6.

6.

7.
37
 Relation between IM, MR and Hs

MR Hs=120 140 160 180 200 220

12
1.2
240
1.1 260
300
1.0

09
0.9

0.8

0.7 Growing conditions

problems induce
0.6
lower MR and lower IM
0.5
IM
0

0
2.

2.

3.

3.

4.

4.

5.

5.

6.

6.

7.
38
 Fiber quality measurement

Why do we measure color and trash ?

• To identify bales having homogeneous

characteristics and group them per lot

• To avoid variations in color in raw and dyed

fabrics

• To limit wastes during processing

39
 Fiber quality measurement

Pressure plate

Cotton Sample

Gl
Glass supportt

Light bulbs
or flash
fl h light
li ht

Reflectance Yellowness Image

40
Rd % +b analysis …
Fiber quality
measurement

41
 Fiber quality measurement
Trashmeter image

Grey level

12 7
34 6
5 5
4
67 3
89 2
1
10 0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1 7 7 7 6 6 6 7 7
2 7 7 6 6 6 6 7 6
3 7 7 6 7 5 4 7 6
4 7 7 4 5 4 3 6 6
5 7 6 3 2 0 2 5 5
6 7 6 3 1 0 4 5 5
7 7 7 4 2 6 6 7 7
42
Binarisation and threshold applied …
 Fiber quality measurement
Trashmeter image

8 pixels
i l
considered
as trash
t h
particle 8
7
8 6
7 5
6
5 4
4
3 3
2
1 2
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 1

Trash count
count, Trash area,
area Leaf
Leaf, Leaf grade
43
Fiber quality measurement

Why do we measure strength ?

• To define what product can be made from

these fibers

• To define a commercial price

• To predict yarn strength

44
 Fiber quality measurement

Manual :
with classical instruments
Stelometer : T1 (cN/tex) and elongation E1 (%)

with High Volume Instrument (HVI)

Strength (cN/tex) and elongation Elong (%)

with devices measuring individual fibers

Breakingg force and elongation
g

45
 Fibrogram curve

100 % of fibers

Fibrogram
80 Strength (g/tex) = Force x K
Estimated weigth
60
ping zone
e

1/8° inch

40
Clamp

Force
20

jaws Fiber length

0

46
 Fibrogram curve after a break

100 % of fibers

80 Strength (g/tex) = Force x K

E ti t d weight
Estimated i ht
60
ne
Clamping zon

f(nb de fibres et IM)

40

jaws
20

Fiber length
0

47
 Caractérisation de la fibre

Les principales caractéristiques de fibre peuvent être

établies soit manuellement, soit sur appareils
classiques ou soit sur chaînes HVI.

Seules les chaînes HVI :

permettent des mesures instrumentales
instrumentales,
automatisées, rapides et intégrées des critères
commerciaux,
commerciaux
et autorisent un classement balle à balle sur
l ’ensemble
’ bl de
d ces critères
itè
48
 Fibre quality per spinning method

Rank Ring spinning Open end Air-jet

1 L
Length
th St
Strength
th L
Length
th

2 Strength Fineness Trash

3 Fineness Length
g Fineness

4 Trash Trash Strength

Deussen, 1992 49
 Fiber quality measurement

Length

Micronaire Length uniformity

Color Strength
Trash content and more

Example of ITC
(This
Thi display
di l does
d nott constitute
tit t any type
t off recommendation
d ti for
f this
thi equipment,
i t
picture from an advertisement from Uster Technologies)
50
Example of HVI classification in Dumas
(AK)

51
 Fiber quality measurement

Actual major manufacturers of so-call HVI

equipments
i t (alphabetic
( l h b ti order)
d )
- Lintronics (Israel)
- Premier (India)
- Schaffner Technologies (USA)
- Zellweger Uster (USA)

52
 Fiber quality measurement

Number of HVI equipments

1400
1200
1000
800
600
400
200
0
1980 1982 1984 1986 1988 1990 1992 1994 1996 1998
1981 1983 1985 1987 1989 1991 1993 1995 1997 1999
Y
Year

From Hunter, 2000 53

 Fiber quality measurement

High Volume Instrument (HVI)

in the world North America
46.9%

Total = 883 HVI

Australia
1.6%
Cent.,
C t SSouth
th
America
7.4%
Middle East
Middle-East
Far East
1.8%
23.3% Europa
Africa 15 2%
15.2%
3.9%
Source : HUNTER L., ITMF Committee, Brème, Mars 1994. 54
 Plan of presentation

• Introduction
• Different ways of fibers characterization
• A point about the standardization process
• How does work an HVI
• An example of relation between fiber and
yarn quality
• Conclusions

55
 Normalization steps

1923
Universal Standards :
Grade, Pulling ; 1940-1950
Transactions . International Calibration
Cotton Standards (ICCS) ;
Research + Transactions.

1986
HVI Calibration Cotton ; 1995/1998
Transactions, USA. - ICCS restricted for
research ;
- HVI Calibration Cotton
Time Transactions, world.

Based on so-call ’reference methods’ 56

 Expected precision for
international market

Confidence interval

IM (+/-)) 0
(+/ 0.1
1 unit
Length (+/-) 0.02 inch
(+/-) 0.51
0 51 mm
Length uniformity (+/-) 1.5 %
Strength (+/-) 1.5
1 5 cN/tex
Rd % (+/-) 1 %
+b (+/-) 0 0.5
5
Trash (+/-) 0.1 %

From Sasser, 1992. 57

 Reference cotton use in the world: 1991

Who No HVI Consumption

HVICC Ratio ICCS Ratio

kg kg/HVI kg kg/HVI

USDA 212 19214 91 3023 14.2

USA
except USDA 91 828 9 49 0.5

Outside
USA 318 192 0.6 1.8 0.004

Total 621
58
 Reference cotton use in the world: 1994

Who No HVI Consumption

HVICC Ratio ICCS Ratio

kg kg/HVI kg kg/HVI

USDA x 14145 ? 6803 ?

-21% +125%
USA
except USDA x 766 ? 127 ?
- 7% +159%
Outside
USA x 245 ? 42 ?
+27% +2200%
Total 883
59
+42%
 Existing reference cottons after 1998

ICCS ICCS Mik

Mike only
l HVICC

* Stelometer HVI HVI

* Carded cotton Raw cotton Raw cotton

* 3 types 6 types 2* 2 types

* Measurement of
T1 Mike Length (UHM)
E1 UI%
((1 type
yp with SL%)) Strength
g
60
 6 - International normalisation
6 - International normalisation
of the measurements
of the measurements
ICCS Mike only standards
Mike Length of ICCS standards
7.0 Inches
1.60
6.0 5.6 1.40
1.40 1.35
5.2 1.25
50
5.0 46
4.6 53
5.3 1.20 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.25
4.2 4.8 1.05 1.20
4.4 1.00 1.15
4.0 3.7
1.00
3.7 1.00 1.00
2.8 3.4 0.80 0.90 0.90
3.0 0.80 0.88
0.70
2.0 2.5
0.60
0.60 0.60
1.0 0.40
Gm Cm Dm Bm Im Am K F H G B A I C D E
Cotton types
yp yp
Cotton types
Upper Half Mean Length Histogram
2356 Cottons from different origins Strength Histogram
2356 Cottons from different origins
Percentage
g %
35 Percentage %
40
30
25 30
20
15 20

10
10
5
0 0
20 25 30 35 40 15 19 23 27 31 35 39 43
Upper Half Mean Length in mm Strength in g/tex
Length Maxi HVICC/Length Mini HVICC Tested cottons St Maxi HVICC/St Mini HVICC Tested cottons 61
Existing reference cottons after 1998

62
Existing reference cottons after 1998

63
 HVI modules calibration : IM

55
5.5 Calibration =
change slope
5
and offset
d valuess

4.5 between
observed vs Theo.
bserved

4
theorical values Obs.
3.5
Ob

3
2.5
2.5 3 3.5 4 4.5 5 5.5
Theorical values
64
 About reference values establishement

Question : is there any drift in the establishment of

Calibration Cotton reference data ?
• A set of calibration cotton = at least 2 cottons
• These can also be analyzed as samples
Calibration Samples Issue/Date
Set 1 Set 1, 2, 3, … 1
Set 2 Set 1
1, 2
2, 3
3, … 2
Set 3 Set 1, 2, 3, … 3

Comparison
p between results => drift ?
65
 Preliminary experiment

112 Slope 0.48 cN/tex / year

ICCS
• Illustrer
110 dérive
HVICC(1)
• et modifier
108 HVICC(2)diapo précédente
106
104
Slope 0.68 cN/tex / year
102
100
Slope 0.11 cN/tex / year
98
1981 1983 1985 1987 1989 1991 1993 1995 1997
66
 Drift and other troubles

• Observed Drift
+ Delay to access to recent generations of reference
Consumption in 1991
cottons
100
=> Differential in reading levels
=> Lower accuracy
80 in the yarn quality prediction
from fiber 60
quality measurement
Breaking force (cN)
kg RS 20 tex r = 0,96
40 900 OE 20 tex r = 0,96
RS 27 ttex r = 0
0,97
97
Relations 20 700 OE 27 tex r = 0,98

=> Use
between yarn / consume
0
reference materials !!!!
RS 37 tex r = 0,97
OE 37 tex r = 0,98
500
versus fiber HVICC ICCS
quality 300 USDA USA (not USDA) Other

100
20 25 30 35 40 45 50 67
HVI strength (cN/tex)
Economical incidence of quality
on fiber exchange price

1993

68
 Evolution of premium/discounts for HVI
strength over 5 years ( PP. SASSER EFS 1995)

400
Data collected during M. Sasser’s presentation
300

200
1991
US cents/lb
b

100 1992
1993
0 1994
19 23 24 26 30 1995
-100

-200

-300
69
 Plan of presentation

• Introduction
• Different ways of fibers characterization
• A point about the standardization process
• How does work an HVI
• An example of relation between fiber and
yarn quality
• Conclusions

70
 Hardware design

Light sensor Fixed

clamp Calibrated
Mobile
((front)) clamp
with
(back) ‘reference’
masses
C
Comb
b + fibers
fib

Force sensor

Light
emission

Step motor 71
Tenacity
Material

Force
sensor

Optical
p
sensor

72
Tenacity
Material

Force
sensor

Traction
jaws

73
 Fibrogram curve

% of fibers
Light sensor,
measure of variation Fibrogram

Quantity of fibers
for tensile test

Displacement
sp ace e t

Light
g Displacement
p
emission
Fiber length 74
 Fibrogram curve

100 % of fibers

Fibrogram
80

60
ne
Clamping zon

1/8° inch

40

Force
20

jaws Fiber length

0

75
 Force / elongation curve

16000
Module
14000 Peak Force

12000
Force (cN)

10000

8000
Strength (cN/tex) = (cN/tex)
= Tenacity Force x k
6000
Estimated mass
= Constraint
4000
= Force/Broken surface
2000
+/-= Force/fineness
= f (quantity of fibers, IM)
0
12

16

20

24

28

32

36

40

44

48

52

56

60

64
0

Elongation Displacement (Step)

76
 Fibrogram curve after a break

100 % of fibers

80

60
ne
mping zon

40
Clam

jaws
20

Fiber length
0

77
 Fibrograms

100
Fibrogram after break
80 Fibrogram before break
% ffibers

60

40

20

0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Length
78
 Position of the break

a b<a 79
 Rheology

Constraint

Elasticity Elasticity
of
reorganization
g
Sli
Slippage

Plasticity
Deformation

80
 Tenacity or strength

Results and conclusions

HVI Single fibers

F
S
F F
S

Tenacity  F / S should be constant 81

 Optical sensor

Light sensor Transmission

Diffraction
- inside
- outside
Scattering
- inside
- outside
Absorption
Light
g teemission
ss o
82
Original drawing : Gourlot 12/97
 Possible effects of fiber properties
(example on strength)
• 1-Sensor linearity
Light sensor • 2-Shape factor
– micronaire
– scouring / swelling
• 3
3-Maturity
Maturity and fineness
distributions
Light
g emission • 44-Color Color
• 5-Length distribution
Attention: the mass of
b k fibers
broken fib is d • 6-Ambiant conditions
i estimated
i
from this signal for the
calculation of strength
83
 Ambiant conditions

Should be at any time:

• 21 °C +/- 1 °C
• 65 % R
Relative
l ti HHumidity
idit (RH%) +/-
/ 2%

84
 Ambiant conditions

Material and method

Optical sensor Brush
Hypothesis : ambiant conditions should be
stable
t bl around d the
th tested
t t d fibers
fib
Sensor
• Use of temperature and relative humidity
probes
• Use of Comb
HVI or RST

Ejection
Air ejection OFF
Fibrosampler ON

85
 Ambiant conditions

Results and conclusions : air succion OFF

or
er

r
e
ns
pl

pl
14

se
am

am
al
or
os

os
h

b
m

ic

om
us

ns
br

br
oo

pt
12

Br

Se
External

Fi
Fi

O
R

C
Built-in
5
10
0
Temp (°C)

8
-5

-10

%)
6

Diff HR (%
Diff T

-15
4
-20
2
-25

0 External
-30
Built-in
r r
-2 oom pl er r us
h
nso nso om
b
pl
er -35
R
sa
m B Se l se C
sa
m
o a o
i br tic i br 86
F p F
O
 Ambiant conditions

Results and conclusions : air succion ON

r
r

r
o
e

e
ns
pl

pl
14

se
am

am

n
al

tio
External
E t l

r
os

os
h

b
o

ic

om
us

ns
br

br

ec
pt
12 Built-in

Br

Ej
Se
Fi

Fi
O

C
5
10
0
Temp (°C)

8
-5

-10

%)
6
Diff T

Diff HR (%
-15
4

-20
2
-25

0 External
-30
Built-in
er us
h or or b ler tion
pl s s m p -35
r n n Co am ec
-2
s am B Se l se s E j
ibr
o
tica b ro 87
F O
p Fi
 Teneur encontent
Moisture humidité
(%(%)
w/w)
20
19
18
17
16
Source: USDA Seeds
Graine
15 Seed-
14 Coton-
cotton
graine
13
12  More than 1 cN/tex
11 difference !
10
9 (Sasser 1990)
8
7 Fibre
Fibres
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
88
Relative humidity
Humidité relative in
dethe
l'airair(%)
(%)
 Strength stability : HVICC bale 27985
Measuring unit covered vs uncovered
cN/tex
Motion Control 3500
25

24

23 Accepted range after calibration

22

21

20

19
0 30 60 90 120 150 180 210 240
Time (mn)
(Covered) (Uncovered)

89
 Strength stability : HVICC bale 28484
Measuring unit covered vs uncovered
cN/tex
Motion Control 3500
34

33
Accepted range after calibration
32

31

30

29
0 30 60 90 120 150 180 210 240
Time (mn)
(Covered) (Uncovered)

90
Other possible bias in HVI measurement

Mass of this deposit = 0.0175 g

91
 Sources of variability in the results

Variety Plant to plant Seed cotton preparation

G
Growing
i conditions
diti Pi ki ttechnique
Picking h i Gi i ttechnique
Ginning h i (R/S)
(fertilizer, insects) Farm size Lint cleaning

Precision
Accuracy
R
Repeatability
t bilit
Reproducibility
Number of samples / bale RH conditions,
conditions
Number of bales / lot HVI calibration
92
Method of sampling Nb tests / sample
 Confidence Intervals (research samples in
specific sampling conditions)
Units
2.5
UHML Upland Saw
2.0
0 UI ginned
g
Strength samples
UHML
1.5 Barbadense
UI
Strength cottons
1.0

0.5

0.0
0 10 20 30 40 50
Nb measures / sample 93
 Plan of presentation

• Introduction
• Different ways of fibers characterization
• A point about the standardization process
• How does work an HVI
• An example of relation between fiber and
yarn quality
• Conclusions

94
 Relations between yarn
versus fiber quality

Card Open End

D
Drawing
i fframe
Ring spinning
95
 Relations between
yarn versus fiber q
y quality
y
Coton A Coton B
ML ((mm)) 22 6
22.6 24 2
24.2
UHML (mm) 28.4 28.9
UI (%) 79.6 83.7
Strength (cN/tex) 25 30.3
Elong (%) 5.0 5.7
IM 2.9 3.8
MR 0.67 0.90
PM (%) 58.5 79.6
H (mtex) 143 155
HS (mtex) 214 173
Rd (%) 69.7 72.8
96
+b 11.9 11.3
 Relations between
yarn versus fiber q
y quality
y
CRL yarn tenacity tests
Breaking force cN
600
Coton A RS
500
Coton A OE
400 Breaking force = 14.45 x Tex - 79.07

300

200

100 Breaking force = 11.38 x Tex - 62.20

-100
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40
Tex
97
 Relations between
yarn versus fiber q
y quality
y
CRL yarn tenacity tests
Breaking force cN
800
700 Coton B RS
600 Coton B OE

500 Breaking force = 17,27 x Tex - 39,14

400
300
200
100 Breaking force = 14,75 x Tex - 78.92
0
-100
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40
Tex
98
 Relations between
yarn versus fiber q
y quality
y
CRL yarn tenacity tests (RS)
Breaking force cN
800
700 Coton A
600 Coton B

500
Breaking force = 17,27 x Tex - 39,14
400
300
200
100 Breaking force = 14,45 x Tex - 79,07
0
-100
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40
Tex 99
 Relations between
yarn versus fiber q
y quality
y
Eveness tester UT3 : thick places (RS)
thick places 1000 m

1800

1400

Coton A
1000

600
C t B
Coton
200
18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40
Tex
100
 Relations between
yarn versus fiber q
y quality
y
Eveness tester UT3 : thin places (RS)
Thin places 1000 m
1200

1000

800

600
Coton A

400

200
C t B
Coton
0
18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40
Tex 101
 Relations between
yarn versus fiber q
y quality
y
Eveness tester UT3 : neps places (RS)
Neps 1000 m
1300

1100
Coton B
900

700

500

300 Coton A
100
18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40
Tex 102
 Relations between
yarn versus fiber q
y quality
y
Eveness tester UT3 : hairiness (RS)
Hairiness H
8
75
7.5
Coton A
7
65
6.5
6
55
5.5
C t B
Coton
5
45
4.5
4
18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40
Tex 103
 Relations between
yarn versus fiber q
y quality
y
Eveness tester UT3 : CV% (RS)
CV %
26

24

22
C t A
Coton
20

18

16
Coton B
14
18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40
Tex 104
 Relations between yarn
versus fiber quality
Breaking
g force (cN)
( )
RS 20 tex r = 0,96
900 OE 20 tex r = 0,96
RS 27 ttex r = 0
0,97
97

700 OE 27 tex r = 0,98

S3
RS 37 te
tex r = 0,9
0,97
OE 37 tex r = 0,98
500

300

100
20 25 30 35 40 45 50

HVI strength (cN/tex) 105

 Effect of fibre parameters on yarn
resistance

• 191 cottons from various origins

• Fibre analysis + spnning RS 20tex

T Fil = 0.44
Ten 0 44 TenHVI
T HVI - 0.0016
0 0016 H + 2.58
2 58 MR + 0.33
0 33 UI - 27.03
27 03
R² = 0.76 ***

106
 Fibre strength and UI vs yarn
strenght RS 20 tex

UI%
19
188
17
80
Yarn 16
strength 15
(cN/tex) 14
13
12
11
24 26 28 30 32 34
HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)
107
 Fibre strength and UI vs yarn
strenght RS 20 tex

UI%
19 86
188 84
17 82
80
Yarn 16
strength 15
(cN/tex) 14
13
12
11
24 26 28 30 32 34
HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)
108
 Fibre strength and MR
vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

MR
19
188
17
0.70
Yarn 16
strength 15
(cN/tex) 14
13
12
11
24 26 28 30 32 34
HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)
109
 Fibre strength and MR
vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

MR
19 0.97
188 0.90
17 0.80
0.70
Yarn 16
strength 15
(cN/tex) 14
13
12
11
24 26 28 30 32 34
HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)
110
 Fibre strength and H
vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

H
19
130
188
17
Yarn 16
strength 15
(cN/tex) 14
13
12
11
24 26 28 30 32 34
HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)
111
 Fibre strength and H
vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

H
19
130
188 170
17 210
Yarn 16
strength 15
(cN/tex) 14
13
12
11
24 26 28 30 32 34
HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)
112
 Fibres characteristics
vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex
Yarn strength (cN/tex) U%
UI%
19
86
18 84
82
17 80
16
15
MR H
14
0.97 130
13 0.90 170
0.80 210
12 0.70
11
24
4
26
6
29
9
31
1
34
4
24
4
27
7
29
9
32
2
34
4
25
5
27
7
30
0
32
2
35
5
HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC) 113
 Fibres characteristics
vs yarn eveness RS 20 tex

• 30 cottons
• Fibres characterization
• p
Spinningg OE 20,, 27 and 37 tex
• Spinning RS 20, 27 and 37 tex

114
 Correlations coefficients between fibres
characteristics and OE yarn eveness
ML UHML UI ST EL
Thin pl. (FIN) 20 tex -0.55 -0.58 -0.33 -0.62 -0.43
Thick pl. (GRO) ‘’ -0.34 -0.37 -0.12 -0.34 -0.20
Neps (NEP) ‘’ -0.25
0.25 -0.28
0.28 -0.10
0.10 -0.26
0.26 -0.22
0.22
CV evenness (CVR) ‘’ -0.62 -0.63 -0.48 -0.60 -0.49
Hairiness (PIL) ‘’ -0.63 -0.61 -0.60 -0.55 -0.59
FIN 27 tex -0.54
0 54 -0.57
0 57 -0.33
0 33 -0.52
0 52 -0.41
0 41
GRO ‘’ -0.32 -0.35 -0.12 -0.29 -0.25
NEP ‘’ -0.29 -0.32 -0.10 -0.28 -0.27
CVR ‘’ -0.39 -0.40 -0.27 -0.27 -0.34
PIL ‘’ -0.57 -0.56 -0.52 -0.52 -0.41
FIN 37 tex -0.43 -0.44 -0.32 -0.34 -0.30
GRO ‘’ -0.39 -0.41 -0.23 -0.28 -0.34
NEP ‘’ -0.25 -0.29 -0.03 -0.21 -0.17
CVR ‘’ -0.29
0.29 -0.28
0.28 -0.29
0.29 -0.21
0.21 -0.26
0.26
PIL ‘’ -0.65 -0.64 -0.59 -0.49 -0.62
115
 Correlations coefficients between fibres
characteristics and RS yarn eveness
ML UHML UI ST EL
Thin pl. (FIN) 20 tex -0.75 -0.70 -0.86 -0.68 -0.71
Thick pl. (GRO) ‘’ -0.85 -0.81 -0.87 -0.78 -0.81
p ((NEP))
Neps ‘’ -0.60 -0.61 -0.42 -0.51 -0.60
CV evenness (CVR) ‘’ -0.89 -0.86 -0.89 -0.82 -0.83
Hairiness (PIL) ‘’ -0.72 -0.66 -0.86 -0.64 -0.73
FIN 27 tex -0.71
0 71 -0.66
0 66 -0.85
0 85 -0.64
0 64 -0.67
0 67
GRO ‘’ -0.82 -0.80 -0.79 -0.75 -0.79
NEP ‘’ -0.49 -0.53 -0.24 -0.41 -0.48
CVR ‘’ -0.90
0 90 -0.87
0 87 -0.90
0 90 -0.84
0 84 -0.85
0 85
PIL ‘’ -0.68 -0.62 -0.84 -0.64 -0.72
FIN 37 tex -0.66 -0.60 -0.82 -0.58 -0.60
GRO ‘’ -0.81 -0.79 -0.74 -0.73 -0.75
NEP ‘’ -0.47 -0.51 -0.20 -0.40 -0.43
CVR ‘’ -0 90 -0.86
-0.90 -0 86 -0.90
-0 90 -0 83
-0.83 -0 84
-0.84
PIL ‘’ -0.71 -0.66 -0.86 -0.64 -0.75
116
 Plan of presentation

• Introduction
• Different ways of fibers characterization
• A point about the standardization process
• How does work an HVI
• An example of relation between fiber and
yarn quality
• Conclusions

117
 Conclusion

HVI cotton fiber measurements may

y be used to :

• Commercialy characterize cotton fibers properties

– standardization ongoing for all measured parameters

– future evolutions to integrate new properties
characterization
– that may induce new rules in the trade

118
 Conclusion

HVI cotton fiber measurements may

y be used to :

• Arrange
g laydowns
y to stabilize or control :

– mean values
– variability around those mean values according to
production means (from field to ginning mill), sampling
procedures (from ginning to spinning mills) …

119
 Conclusion

HVI cotton fiber measurements may

y be used to :

• Predict the fiber behavior in the p

processing
g steps
p both
in terms of :

– quality
– productivity

120
 Conclusion

HVI cotton fiber measurements may

y be used to :

• Control,,

• Check,

• And set spinning machineries

to get the highest yarn quality as demanded by the

market

121
 Conclusion

HVI cotton fiber measurements may

y be used to :

• Breed new varieties depending

p g on the improvements
p
made in the transformation stages.

depending on commercialy recognised

characterization

122
 What Cirad does and recommends

1) Apparatus
A t calibration
lib ti tto iinsure a proper reading
di level.
l l
2) Check and set-up of procedures to warrant proper
precision and accuracy levels.
3) Check of the results through a participation to
periodical international round tests.
4) Check the precision in classing routine.
TO GET
– Homogeneous results on the cotton market
– Limited number of claims. 123
Centre
de coopération
internationale
en recherche
agronomique
Thank yyou
pour le
développement

for your attention