Quality Assurance Manual

 
NN FASHION
Soft Goods Quality Assurance Manual
 
2014
 

Index
1.   About the NN Fashion Quality Assurance Manual ------------------------------- 3
2.   The Five Critical Processes ------------------------------------------------------------ 4
3.   Departmental responsibility ------------------------------------------------------------ 5
4.   Introduction of a new Vendor/factory & supplier -------------------------------- 7
5.   Style file used by merchandisers ------------------------------------------------------9
6.   Set up QC file --------------------------------------------------------------------------------9
7.   Product release – the handover of QC files --------------------------------------10
8.   Fabric / Trim card - bulk submission of fabric / trims ---------------------------10
9.   Color assessment -------------------------------------------------------------------------11
10. Shade Band Submission -----------------------------------------------------------------12
11. Laboratory testing -------------------------------------------------------------------------13
12. Fabric inspection --------------------------------------------------------------------------15
13. The inspection flow -----------------------------------------------------------------------19
14. Pre-production Review meeting ------------------------------------------------------20
15. Standard makes specifications --------------------------------------------------------21
16. QC Check points for SPECIFIC areas ------------------------------------------------25
17. Garment washing & finishing -----------------------------------------------------------27
18. Cut part inspection ------------------------------------------------------------------------28
19. Fusing procedure --------------------------------------------------------------------------29
20. Start up production line ------------------------------------------------------------------30
21. The inline inspection ----------------------------------------------------------------------31
22. Top samples / rack samples / shipment samples ---------------------------------32
23. Random inspection method -------------------------------------------------------------33
24. The 8 steps in the Pre-final / Final inspection -------------------------------------35
25. Classification of defects------------------------------------------------------------------42
26. Verifying the Acceptability of a Shipment ------------------------------------------44
27. Fault categories ----------------------------------------------------------------------------45
28. Writing QC reports ------------------------------------------------------------------------49
29. Closing Meeting after inspection-----------------------------------------------------50
30. Shipment release procedure ----------------------------------------------------------52
 
 
 
1.  About the NN Fashion Quality Assurance Manual
The N N Fashion Quality Manual specifies how our technical staff should perform in the
company. Everyone within the company is working contained by the same guidelines and
therefore maintaining a consistent high level of quality.
Quality statement:  Quality in this instance is not just the quality of the product, but quality of
all performance related areas:
•             Quality of product
•             Quality of work
•             Quality of service / communication
•             Quality of information
•             Quality of process
•             Quality of division
•             Quality of people
•             Quality of system
•             Quality of objectives
 
This manual cannot cover all areas of each job role, but it is hoped that from the information
contained within, all staff will be able to make correct decisions and judgments as required.

2. The Five Critical Processes

NN Fashion is dedicated to manufacturing the highest possible quality apparel for our customers.
To meet our customers’ expectation and requirements, NN Fashion QA has developed a quality
assurance program to achieve the objectives of five critical processes:
Factory evaluation
•             NN Fashion QA will conduct factory evaluation to ensure the supplier is capable of
producing the right quality and provide the production capacity that our customers require.
Quality system and social compliance audit
•             The supplier management team with a group of auditors who conduct quality system
audits and 2nd party social compliance audits, if requested.
•             Liaise with customer appointed 3rd party auditor to run the external social compliance
audit programs.
 
Technical Assessment
•             Garment technologists / technicians allocated to each Strategic Business Unit.
•             The technologists / technicians conduct detailed technical assessment at the product
development stage.
•             Set up fit standards by how to measure, base patterns and grading rules.
•             Review all aspects of garment technical.
•             Agree the quality standards with customers and factories prior to production.
•             Ensure the integrity of product package released to manufacturers.
 
Laboratory testing
•             International Laboratory Service conducts textile testing to ensure quality.
•             Liaise with customers and other commercial laboratory to be the service provider for
laboratory testing.
•             To ensure products compliance with all local laws and regulations of the destination
markets.
 
Quality Control
•             The last line of defense.
•             Pre-production review – ensure the production personnel understands customers quality
requirements and take pro-active steps to control quality throughput the full
manufacturing process.
•             Pre-production sample / pilot production approval - Support the suppliers by providing
technical guidance to the sewing operatives.
•             Pre-shipment inspections- to assure product meets the requirements.

3. Departmental responsibility
Management
•             To ensure the requirements of the manual are implemented and maintained
•             To communicate regularly with all parties involved so that difficulties and suggestions
will be recognized. Furthermore, the requirements and development of the company can
be conveyed.
•             To spot check the quality records and operating procedures.
•             To be involved in the management review of the manual.
 
Merchandising Department
•             To liaise between customers and factories so that the requirements of the customer can
be fully understood and conveyed to suppliers.
•             To present customer and suppliers information to QA department, in order that a
suitable standard/specification can be used for inspection. This can be supported by
completing all the specified documents.
•             Factory sourcing to obtain a good quality product and a wide variety of options.
Quality Assurance Department
•             Quality Assurance.
•             Social compliance monitoring.
•             Upgrade the quality systems of the suppliers systematically.
•             Approve samples of new product development.
•             Provide technical support for merchandising department
•             Maintain a QC library with international and individual customer standards
•             Conduct planned and systematic inspections to ensure the product and service will
satisfy the quality requirement.
•             Initiate action to prevent the occurrence of product nonconformity.
Shipping & Accounting
•             To ensure all documentation for shipments is sent to the customer in sufficient time for
them to conduct import procedures before docking of vessels / aircraft.
•             To ensure all payments are implemented on due date, therefore maintaining a good
working relationship with our sources.
•             To check all L/C’s are received from customers within time for shipment and that the
documents conform to those requested.

3.1 Job responsibility of the Technical Team

Technical Manager
Support the merchandising and technical team to achieve buyer’s fit requirements.
Work with vendors and customers to set up fit standard, base block pattern and grading rules.
Set up product guidelines, fabric and trim quality standards and testing protocols.
Garment Technologist / Technician
To assist NN Fashion makers / vendor to achieve buyer’s fit requirements.
To perform fit sample evaluation.
Review and sign off technical packs to ensure the integrity of information released to vendors.
Provide technical advices / comments to vendors.
3.2 Job responsibility of QC Team
QC manager
To supervise and manage the QC teams.
To organize and schedule all inspections
To evaluate the performance of all inspectors and their inspection report.
To assure NN Fashion products meet buyer’s requirement.
Work with the Quality System Manager, to evaluate vendor / factories’ quality performance.
Work with Quality System Manager, to provide factory audit training.
Work with Quality System Manager, to perform new vendor survey.
To control QC expenses.
QC supervisor
To supervise and co-ordinate a group of QCs.
To review and update production status reports on our order tracking system.
To perform factory evaluations and update on our order tracking system.
To evaluate QC files and pre-production samples.
To perform pre-production checks.
To review the efficiency of visiting schedule made by QCs.
To evaluate QC performance.
To evaluate factories’ performance.
To review QC expenses.
Quality Controller
Perform operational techniques and activities that are used to fulfill quality requirements.
These activities involve:
Check packing accuracy.
Measuring.
Examining the product quality.
Identifying and recording any product quality problems.
Assessing product conformity and determining release of shipment.
To provide a monthly shipment schedule and work done/load to assistant QA 
manager/supervisor.
Updating QC activity module.
To perform pre-production check.
To perform in-line inspections.
 To perform final inspections.
To report production status and factory activity to QC manager and merchandising staff.
Evaluate shipment samples / top samples as required.
QC Coordinator
To provide clerical support to QA/QC department, such as inspection schedules.
To set up all clerical files for QA/QC department.
To centralize inspection reports.
To update QC action calendar in our order tracking system.
 
4. Introduction of a new Vendor/factory & supplier
Prerequisites for proposing a new factory
Merchandise must check the availability of tools as a prerequisite for propose a new factory. No
need to propose the factory if they do not own a barcode scanner, a scanner, digital camera and a
computer with internet connectivity for online use at factory site.
Request to evaluate a new Vendor/Factory
         Merchandise Manager proposes a new vendor /factory to the Office Management.
         If they agree we should pursue this vendor/factory, then the Merchandise Manager fills in new
vendor and factory registration form and requests the QA Manager to evaluate the factory. No
signatures are needed at this point yet.
         Vendor / Factory Profile – The Merchandising Manager sends the empty from to the vendor to
fill it in with pictures attached. Then, pass the completed form to QA Manager
         Factory Evaluation - The QA Manager assigns staff to do the evaluation.

New Maker and Factory Registration

Attached the Vendor / factory profile to this form and submit to QA manager for factory
evaluation. Use one form for one factory only.
Submit to: (QA manager)
Apply by: (Merchandising manager / Account
Executives):
Date of application: (please allow 2 week to complete
evaluation)
  Customer information (provided by NN Fashion Merchandising Manager)
  Customer:  
  Payment terms with the customer:  
  Payment through NN Fashion (please √ )   Customer pay direct to vendor (please √ )  
  3rd party Social compliance audit required? Yes         / No       , audit by
  New Vendor information
  Name:  
  Address:  
  Phone Number:  
  Fax #:  
  Contact Person  
  E-mail  
   Trade term  
  Payment term  
  Ship from country  
  Product line (s)  
  New factory information
  Name:  
  Address:  
  Phone Number:  
  Fax #:  
  Contact Person  
  Product type:  
Tools for Online Use: PC w/ internet   Scanner   Barcode   Digital camera 
 
scanner
Factory evaluation: Registration approved by:  
Audited by Approved by Office G.M. Merchandise Managing
QC supervisor/ auditor: QA Manager Manager Director  

         
           
Date: Date: Date: Date: Date:
                             
*IMPORTANT:   Must obtain all signatures for maker/factory activation

5. Style file used by merchandisers

The merchandisers are responsible to maintain a style file on a daily basis so that information can
easily be accessed by any NN Fashion employee.
The style file can be broken down further into several parts:
         Fabric / trim file - to keep the history of the fabric / trim development
          Merchandiser Master Style File which contains:
o        Customer critical path/ action calendar
o        Merchandise + Product Development Charts
o        Counter Sample Summary Forms
o        Memos / price information AND
o        Other information as specified by Merchandising Manager
The Merchandise Managers can decide their preferable section / sub-section of the style file. All
information will be filed into the respective sub-sections.
To keep the full story of the order development, do not remove any previous information from
the file. Once a document is superseded it must be crossed through to indicate that a more recent
version exists.
 
6. Set up QC file
The merchandisers are responsible to provide a complete QC file to QA  department.
 The merchandisers need to set up QC file when receive any form of ‘order confirmation’ from
buyers.
To ensure the QA / QC process is handled effectively, all documents for each style are controlled
by one filing system. Merchandisers transfer the final confirmed style information to the QC file.
Merchandiser / Senior Merchandiser are responsible for keep the file up to dated, and signing it
off when it is released to QA dept.
Keep the QC file organized
         Contracts: - customer/maker signed back copies of PO Sheets .
         Order Status Reports: - to be filed at front of all sub-sections for easy reference.
         Style information Sheet / Sketch: - artwork + extra information on style.
         Sample cards/Comments: - all sample cards / customer comments on samples / size spec
approvals in date order.
         Trim Cards: - cards to show approved accessories / bulk.
         Fabric Cards: - cards to show approved fabric quality / lab-dips / bulk.
         Fabric testing reports: - copy of test reports for all fabric and trims.
         Size Specification: graded production size chart.
         In/Out email to buyer: - only insert the relevant emails containing QC information which does
not relate to other sub-sections. Relevant sections of the email must be highlighted.
         In/Out email to factory: - only insert the relevant emails containing QC information which does
not relate to other sub-sections. Relevant sections of the email must be highlighted.
         QC reports: -in-line and final inspection reports.
         Packing List: - all to be placed at front of file upon receipt.
Remark:
All accessories and fabrics that have been approved must be chopped ‘APPROVED’.
 
7. Product release – the handover of QC files
The QC file is a key instrument in the QC procedure. If this document is not completed
accurately by both the Merchandising and QA team, inspections cannot be carried out
successfully.
Merchandisers must pass the following information to QC to enable them to complete the
inspections:
         Approval sample with NN Fashion/Customer seal tag
         QC file with full approval details
         Customer AQL Level required
Hand over style files before arranging inspection
A minimum of 2 weeks before the pre-production review meeting, the QC must contact the
relevant merchandiser to get the QC file & clarify all details preferable in a meeting or otherwise
at least by phone.
Return of QC file to merchandisers
Quality Controllers are responsible for returning the file to QA manager.
Within 1 week after successful final inspection, the QC must return the QC file to the QC
manager. After the manager signs off QC reports, the files will be returned to merchandising
department.
 
8. Fabric / Trim card - bulk submission of fabric / trims
 Factories submit the bulk quality of all fabric and trims for NN Fashion / Customer approval
before commence cutting.
No bulk production can begin until the merchandiser has signed off the completed fabric / trim
card or at least seen and approved all components being put into production.
Factories submit the trim cards to NN Fashion merchandisers
NN Fashion merchandisers are responsible for the sign off of trim card.
Fabric approval card and trim approval card
As soon as all fabric and trims are received by the factories, a fabric approval card and trim
approval card must be completed by the maker.
The quality of fabric is checked against the buyer approval standards.
The quality of trims is checked against the buyer approval standards.
         Merchandisers must check the fabric and trims against each other for color matching.
         A copy of duly signed off fabric approval and trim approval card is filed in the QC file.
The fabric approval card and trim approval card should content the approved samples & approval
chop of merchandisers and / or customers.
 
Fabric & accessory card
For proper color coordination between different materials, factory should put all fabric & trims
used for this order on a Fabric & accessory card and submit to NN Fashion merchandisers for
review and sign off.
         Merchandiser must check bulk against approval standard.
         A copy of duly signed off fabric & accessory card is filed in the QC file.
 
9. Color assessment
To assess and approve the color of all fabrics and trims used to produce a garment.
This procedure applies to the color assessment done in the factories. The merchandisers should
agree and confirm the standard lighting condition. All office managers/ QC managers should
maintain a list of standard lighting condition specified by each customer.
Responsibility
•             Factories submit the fabric approval cards and trim approval cards to NN Fashion
merchandisers
•             NN Fashion merchandisers are responsible for check and sign off the color of fabric and
trim.
•             Merchandise Manager / QC manager are responsible for the update of the “standard
lighting condition” and displaced the standard to the light box.
  
Light boxes
All color assessment must be carried out in a light box placed in the dark room or black out
curtain.
         For US standard:
o   The recommended brand name is Gretag Macbeth.
o   There is artificial daylight D65, Tungsten, TL 84, U30 and U.V. in this light box.
         For EU standard:
o   The recommended brand name is Verivide.
o   There is artificial daylight D65, Tungsten, TL 84 and U.V. in this light box.
Metamerism
 All colors show up different shades under different light sources, this is known as metamerism.
All fabric needs to be checked under yellow light and white light. If white light (D65, CWF) or
yellow light (TL 84, U30) as primary source for color assessment, the other light source should
be used to check the metamerism. Color submissions must not have any metameric effects using
white light and yellow light as illuminate.
Instrumental color assessment
For certain customers, they require a reading of the Data color 600CT spectrophotometer on
color assessment. The acceptable color differences between separate dye lots should be:
         Delta E 0.84 or less.
 
10. Fabric Shade Band Submission
To ensure consistent shade, swatches from every roll & lot must be collected and placed on the
“Color Continuity Card” for color assessment.
All suppliers need to complete the bulk fabric shade band submission.
No bulk production can begin until the merchandiser has signed off the Color Continuity
Factories submit the Color Continuity Cards to NN Fashion merchandisers
NN Fashion merchandisers are responsible for the sign off of Color Continuity Cards
         Collect swatches - Samples must be taken from every bulk lot of main and trim fabric. During
the fabric inspection, the factory should cut the color samples from each roll or each dye lot
displaying the range of color variation. Swatches must be taken from the front and end of the
roll. Write the corresponding lot/roll number for identification.   
         Garment wash - The swatches may be sent to a washing factory to check the color changes
under one wash batch, which is subjected to the washing/ after treatment.
         Sorting the swatches into color batches – Put the swatches under the light box using TL84 and
D60 to assess for any color variation. The swatches are compared to the fabric approval card and
trim approval card. Group the swatches to different shade lots such as A, B, C, D, E… Mark the
lot number on each swatch.
         Prepare the Color Continuity card - A 15cm by 15cm cutting from the swatches of each lot
should be mounted on the Color Continuity Cards and fill in appropriate column with appropriate
“lot number”. The total yardage of each dye lot is then recorded.
         Approval of Color Continuity card - The Color Continuity Card is prepared in a 3 duplicate sets.
NN Fashion Merchandisers review these shade bands. Once the shade band has been agreed, NN
Fashion Merchandisers should sign off one of the duplicate copies and returned to factory for
record. Such copy should be kept in the factory laboratory for reference and the warehouse
computer program is updated for roll shade identification. One of the duplicate may be sent to
customers for approval or for reference. One of the duplicate will be kept in QC file. QC will use
this as a standard for inspections.
         Agree shade band - To control the color variation, an acceptable shade band should be agreed
between NN Fashion, our customers and factory prior the cutting process. The color of bulk
production must fall within the agreed shade band. In case the shade band is out of standard,
advise the factories to contact their dying mills for improvement. Should there be extreme cases
of shade variations, this will then be raised to QC manager and Merchandise Manager for
decision making or eventually to customers.
 
11. Laboratory testing
When is testing needed?
         Requested by customer
         New Fabric - all new fabrics must be submitted for a full fabric test at development stage and at
bulk shipment stage.
         New Supplier - when using a new supplier or fabric mill, all fabrics must be tested until
they have proven that their standards are consistent and acceptable.
 
         Repeat fabric (i.e. frequently used fabric) - in a new color.
When is testing not needed?
         Repeat Fabric (i.e. frequently used fabric) - in the same color as run before and with the same
supplier / fabric mill. (even with this fabric, spot checks must be made approximately every 4
shipments)
Mandatory test
         The merchandisers need to make sure the fabrics and garments are tested before cutting,
according to the requirements of the customer. Any failed results or concerns need to be
discussed with QA and QC immediately.
 
Minimum performance requirements
All fabrics & garments must adhere to certain minimum performance requirements. For
most buyers these requirements are dictated by their testing requirements. For those
customers who do not require testing, the minimum performance standards should be
enforced.
Minimum Performance Requirements
 
 
 
Test Description Test Method Minimum Performance Requirements
Dimensional stability to AATCC 135/150 Woven fabrics: +/- 3% max. Knitted
Laundering fabrics: +/- 5% max.
Dimensional stability to Dry AATCC 158 Woven fabrics: +/- 3% max. Knitted
Cleaning fabrics: +/- 3% max.
Appearance Rating Visual/AATCC 179 Satisfactory, including no shape distortion,
Method 2 no cross staining and skewing 3% max for
woven and 5% max for knits.
Color fastness to Laundering AATCC 61 Color change: 4,  Color staining: 3,
Self staining: 4.5
Color fastness to Crocking AATCC 8 Dry: 4, Wet: 3
Color fastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color change: 4, Color staining: 3
Color fastness to Water AATCC 107 Color change: 4, Color staining: 3
Color fastness to Light AATCC 16 20 hour test: 3.5
Tensile strength ASTM D5034 Blouse: 25 lbs
Shirt/dress/skirt/pyjamas/lining: 30 lbs
Outerwear: 37 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall/pocketing: 50 lbs
 Seam slippage ASTM D434 Blouse/shirt/dress/skirt:  15 lbs
Pyjamas/lining: 18 lbs
Outerwear/pocketing:  22 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall:  25 lbs
Seam strength ASTM D1683 Blouse/shirt/dress/skirt:  22 lbs
Pyjamas/lining: 25 lbs
Outerwear/pocketing:  30 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall:  37 lbs
Tear strength ASTM 1424 Blouse: 1.5 lbs Pyjamas/lining: 1.8 lbs
Shirt/dress/skirt/outerwear: 2.0 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall/pocketing: 2.5 lbs
Bursting strength ASTM D3786 Fabric: 40 lbs /sq. inch, Seam: 35 lbs /sq.
inch,
Pilling resistance ASTM 3512 3.5
– 30 minutes
Fiber content AATCC 20/20A +/- 3% tolerance for blends; No tolerance
for single fiber
Fabric weight (g/m2) ASTM D3776 +/- 5% of specification
Formaldehyde content JIS L 1041 Garments with contact to skin < 75 ppm
Other garments < 300 ppm
Lead content (scrapable surfaces 16 CFR 1500.3 < 600 ppm
only; children only)
Azoic Dyes   Zero tolerance
 
11.2 Responsibility of QC for laboratory testing
QC manager must be informed of any failed test so appropriate measures can be taken before
cutting of fabric. All options need to be reviewed on a case-by-case basis. It is important the
issues can be discussed openly between QC, QA and MR before cutting, so something can be
done.
Be proactive
In many cases, the fabric can still be rectified by the mill and in other cases we can alter the
garment to limit the problem. For example,
•             Seam slippage: an overlock stitch can be added or the seam construction can be changed
to make it stronger
•             Colour fastness to rubbing or Colour staining after washing: the fabric can be washed
again in the mill or, if already cut, an additional warning label can be added to state “wash
separately”. If the garment has contrast parts, we can consider deleting or changing them.
•             Dimensional stability: The fabric can be reset or the pattern can be adjusted to approach
the maximum tolerance. If this is not possible, we can re-test in garment form, which often
shows less shrinkage.
Internal testing report sharing
All QC files must contain a copy of the testing report, if testing is required for this customer. The
QC should not accept files without it and hold production until they have it.
 
 12. Fabric inspection
All incoming fabric including main fabric and trim fabric must be temporarily quarantined to
prevent their use before any required inspection and testing is carried out. Testing and inspection
must be carried out to the customer requirements.
All factories need to complete the fabric inspection before cutting. No bulk production can begin
until the factory merchandiser / QC manager has signed off the completed bulk fabric card and
obtain NN Fashion approval.
12.1        4-point system fabric inspection
The 4-point system is applied to allow the factory technical staff to make correct decisions and
judgments regarding the quality of fabric and trim fabric. The factory QC manager and fabric
inspector are required to implement this procedure in their factories.
 
 
Procedure
         Select samples randomly according to the sample plans.
         Four points system are to be used to define each sample which are acceptable or not.
         Check the fabric quality characteristics against the fabric standard and product specification.
         Fabric construction
         Color
         Fabric width
         Hand feel and finishing
         Packing – fabric tickets, lot number, poly-bag and packing condition.
Visual inspection for fabric defects
         Load the fabric on the inspection machine with viewing angle, 45° or 90°
         Machine speed should be below twenty meter per minute.
         The viewing distance is one meter and enough lighting is necessary.
         Cut one meter of fabric on beginning and end of roll for checking shade and reference.
         Count defects by 4 – point system to determine the roll of fabric to be accepted or to be rejected.
         Defects found on fabric must be classified correctly. If the defect is hard to be identified, the
inspector should bring the defects (about one meter) to the QA manager.
         The major and minor defects should be noted down by point on piece goods inspection report.
         After inspection, the defects of fabric should be shown to the vendor.
Pass or fail
The rolls of fabric pass if the total defective units do not exceed 40 points per 100 square yards.
If the amount exceeds the allowable amount, the inspector should advice the vendor. A 100%
inspection is required to sort the defective and put the quality level right before shipment. In this
case, re-inspection is needed.
Fail if the penalty of defects exceeds 40 points per 100 square yards
The pass grade of the fabric lot is 40 points per 100 square yards. This is calculated by the
following formulas:
Woven:  total points x 36 x 100  =              points/ 100 sq.yds sample yardage (yards) x width
(inches)
Knit: total points x 100 x fabric weight (g/m²) =   points/ 100 sq.yds Sample weight (lbs) x 543
         A thorough inspection should be done on every unit.
         Don’t assume the lot is good or bad after inspecting only a few units. The whole sample size
must be thoroughly inspected before making a conclusion.
 
Responsibility
         The factories are responsible for the implementation and maintenance of this procedure.
         NN Fashion technical staff is responsible to train the factories and monitor the correct
implementation.
         Factory merchandisers should keep the fabric inspection report in the style files.
         Factory should maintain 12 months record that is available to NN Fashion technical staff upon
request.
Procedure
         Check according to normal sampling plan.
         If the 1st inspection failed. Go for 2nd inspection by the ‘tightened standard” sampling plan.
         If batch is passed, mark each roll in the batch with GREEN tape.
         Actual rolls checked should be stamped with “PASS”.
         If the batch is rejected after 1st and 2nd inspections, 100% check to be carried out.
         From 100% check, mark each approved roll with GREEN tape and stamp with “PASS”.
         Rejected rolls must be marked with RED  tape and stored in “REJECT” area.
         Any questionable roll must be marked with YELLOW tape, and placed in “REJECT” area
waiting customer decision.
         From the fabric inspection records, monitor the performance of each fabric supplier.
12.2 Fabric quality standard
There are 2 Acceptable Quality Level depend on the customer requirements
1)      Normal standard
2)      Tightened standard
The following AQL table is applied to determine the acceptance of fabric lots
ISO2859
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plans
Normal Inspection, Level I
  Normal standard Tightened standard
AQL AQL 4.0 AQL 2.5
Lot Size Sample Maximum Allowable Major defective
Size
51           -              280 13 1 -
281         -              500 20 2 1
501         -              1,200 32 3 2
1,201     -              3,200 50 5 3
3,201     -              10,000 80 7 5
10,001   -              35,000 125 10 7
35,001   -              200 14 10
150,000
4 – Point system
The following standard is applied to evaluate the acceptance of defect.
Defects 3 inches or less 1 point
 Defects exceed 3 to 6 inches 2 point
Defects exceed 6 to 9 inches 3 point
Defects exceed 9 inches 4 point
 
12.3 Fabric quality standard
Key fault areas
Any roll found with following defects shall be rejected.
         Piece length less than 39 yards.
         Poor shade continuity throughout the entire roll.
         Exhibits a noticeable degree of shading from side to side, side to centre or side to end.
         Usable width is less than the minimum usable width stated on the purchase agreement.
         Exhibits a noticeable degree of slubs and naps.
         Exhibits a noticeable degree of waviness along either or both fabric edges.
         Exhibits more than 1½ inches of bow or bias on 45 inches width.
         Running defect through more than 5 continuous yards.
         Out of shade range.
         Dye unevenness.
         Shrinkage out of tolerance
         Deviate more than 1 % from the length on the piece thicket.
         Weight not as specification.
         Roll exceeds 15 inches in diameter and / or 80 lbs in gross weight.
         Length of spliced piece less than 30 yards
On site crocking test
By AATCC crock meter method
Minimum acceptable standard
Dry crocking test              rate 4 on the grey sale for staining
Wet crocking test             rate 3 on the grey sale for staining
Packing inspection
         Rolls shall be tube onto a tube with necessary strength to insure it reaches our destination in
good condition.
         Inside diameter of tube not less than 1 ½ inches.
         Tube shall not protrude more than 1/2 on either end of roll.
         The cover end of each roll shall be taped down to prevent unrolling during shipment and
storage.
         Rolls shall be wrapped or enclosed in double plastic wrapping or bags they must be evenly
rolled with enough tension to prevent telescoping during subsequent handling.
         Each roll shall be enclosed in between double plastic wrapping with shipping mark.
         Each roll shall be attached with a roll ticket with necessary information.
 
13. The inspection flow
On each order QA should perform the following formal & complete inspections. NN Fashion QC
staff should ensure the inspections being done in timely manner and reduce the cost by “Get it
right the first time” policy.
Pre-production review meeting
         The meeting is held at the factory 2 weeks before cutting.
         There will be group discussions on all aspects of manufacturing the new garment and any
potential problems highlighted.
Line setting / First In-line inspection:
         If possible, the factory should cut 100 pieces as the pilot run.
         QC should work on the production floor when the new style is fed in the sewing line.
         NN Fashion QC checks each operation of the first 20 pieces of complete garments coming off
the line.
In-Line inspections:
         During continued production.
         The frequency depends on the total order quantity and the number of color-ways. In any case,
there should be at least 1 complete inspection per style per week.
Checking top samples:
         QC checks the top samples at the factory before the samples are dispatched to NN Fashion
office or the customers. These samples must be with full packing accessories.
Pre-Final inspection:
         When the sewing is finished or almost finished and 10% of the goods are packed.
Crucial: to avoid any last minute problems.
Final inspection:
         When sewing is 100% finished and the packing is 95% completed.
         Do not load goods in the container before the final inspection is finished.
         No style can go ex. factory before our QC confirms “shipment release” on the inspection forms.
         Final inspections should be held during normal working hours.
 
14. Pre-production Review meeting
A pre-production meeting must be held 2 WEEKS before cutting to review the all production
specifications and set up action plan to load the new style into the production lines.
The following persons will be required to attend the meeting:
NN Fashion personnel
         Quality Controller
         Garment technologist
         Merchandisers
 
Factory personnel
         QC / QC Manager
         Garment Technologist
         Merchandiser
         Production floor Manager
         Line Supervisors
         Head Mechanic
         Cutting Room Manager
         Fabric Technologist
 
The following information must be available for the meeting to take place:
         Correct Garments made in bulk quality fabric and trims, 2 pieces per fit sample size.
          Approval sample
         Technical specifications with operation breakdown
         Size charts
         Bulk trim card
         Approved patterns
 
There will be group discussions on all aspects of manufacturing the new garment and any
potential problems highlighted:
         Status of preparation works including pattern, grading, maker
         Shortages of raw materials
         Color continuity of fabric and trims
         Front & back side of fabrics to avoid wrong cutting
         Lay plan and any special cutting requirements
         Special operator skill required
         Special machinery requirements
         Line planning / Line balancing to ensure to enable correct amount of operators and
machinery requirement to fulfill production flow plan.
         Folding and Packing methods
 
All quality points and action plan must be recorded on the Minutes of Pre-Production Review.
The representative of the factory needs to sign the form and keep a copy for future reference.
The PPR-meeting is the last chance to avoid major mistakes in production. Make mock-ups to
double check before production starts. Visual standards will be signed off and provided to
production line as reference.
 
15. Standard makes specifications
All production must comply with the style details and production method as the sample approved
by NN Fashion QA Department. In addition, production items must comply with these standard
make specifications.
Seams and Stitching
         Seam type
a) Open Seams - minimum seam allowance - 3/8” in general
b) Raw edge to be over-locked or bound.
c) French seams - minimum width 6 mm
 
         Sewing thread
a) Thread - ply/cotton or spun polyester. MONOFILAMENT THREAD IS
UNACCEPTABLE.
b) Thread count should be appropriate for end use
c) All threads must match the fabric colour (unless otherwise advised)
d) Thread must be colourfast.
 
         Seam finish
a) Stitch density 10-12 stitches per 1"
 b) Thread tension of all threads must be correctly adjusted to give a neat and balanced
stitch
formation. Seams must not "grin". Stitches must not crack when seams are stretched.
c) SEAM PUCKERING IS UNACCEPTABLE. Fabric grain cutting, sewing tension,
machine feeds and
operator technique must be correctly adjusted to avoid this problem.
d) Needle damage is unacceptable
e) All thread ends must be trimmed as close as possible to stitching. All loose threads and
waste
to be removed from inside and outside the garment.
f) Gathering must be evenly distributed.
 
Buttons and Buttonholes
         Metal Buttons
a) To be rustproof and smooth edged.
b) To be non-toxic.
 
         Hand sewn buttons
a) Minimum of 5 stitching steps to ensure the security of the button.
b) Minimizing the number of stitches by use of multi-ply sewing thread is not allowed.
Use 2-ply
sewing thread.
 
         Buttons
a) To be colorfast under prescribed care instructions.
b) To be attached using threads color to match button.
c) No loose thread ends.
 
         Keyhole buttonhole
a) Should be used on all heavier weight constructed garment
 
         Buttonholes
a) Stitch density to be a minimum of 50 stitches per 1".
b) Buttonhole stitching bite 2 mm.
c) Buttonhole must be cleanly cut and all threads to be trimmed.
d) Buttonhole size must be sufficient to allow buttons to pass through readily. Normally
button
diameter + 1/8" but for high button + 1/4".
 
         General
a) Button and buttonhole must be positioned so as to prevent gaping of closure when
fastened.
b) Button and buttonhole positions must coincide.
c) Use removable chalk to mark button position. DO NOT USE WAX PENCIL.
d) Button to be positioned in the end of the horizontal buttonholes.
 e) Button to be positioned central to vertical buttonhole. The first button may be required
to be
positioned in the end of the buttonhole if used as an positional aid, to ensure consistent
alignment.
 
Waistband clips (hook and bar)
         Ensure components of clips are securely fixed and correctly aligned to prevent gaping of fly
         Bar must be correctly spaced from fabric to allow hook to pass through readily.
 
Waistbands
         All waists to be suitably constructed and interlined to prevent band bucking or rolling over
         Ends of waistband to be bagged out or neatly concealed ensuring minimum bulk
         Always use colour fast elastic
         Fuse on waistband to prevent the see-through problems of white elastic bands.
 
Slide Fasteners
         Zip tape, zip head and stopper to match body colour.
 
Fly Construction
         Turn back fly
a) Edges of fly facing to be over-locked
b) Base of fly to be securely back stitched
c) Ensure top stop of zip is located immediately below waistband. Gap cannot exceed
1/4"
d) Fly stitching should pass immediately below bottom stop
e) Ensure movement of slider is not restricted by fabric
f) Fly stitching must be parallel to opening
g) Ensure fly front fully conceals zip tape.
 
Darts
         To be plain machined and run off gradually to avoid puckering at end of the dart
         Dart to be backstitched at the point.
 
Hems
         Baby Hem
a) 1/8" finished
b) Trim the fraying along the seam
 
         Length of lining
a) Lining to be 1/4" to 1/2" shorter than finished body length of skirts.
 
         Chain tacking at hem
a) Minimum 1" long
b) Tack at the side seams.
 
         Fell hems
 a) Raw edge to be over-locked then blind stitched. Minimum hem width 1"
b) Blind hemming thread must match body color
c) Blind hemming machine must be correctly adjusted to ensure hemming thread is not
visible on fabric surface. Hem must be securely caught
d) Stitching must be securely caught to prevent unraveling
e) Stitch density - 4 stitches per 1". SKIP STITCH IS NOT TO BE USED
f) Tension to be correctly adjusted so as to prevent snagging during wear. 
 
         Box pleated hem
a) Minimum turn back of hem - 1"
b) Minimum bag of lining - 1/2"
c) Minimum clearance of lining to hem - 1/2"
d) Always tack the turn back at all seams to hold the hem in position
 
Accessories, Trims and Appliqué
         General requirement
a) All trims must be color fast and any shrinkage MUST NOT DISTORT THE
GARMENT
b) Trims and appliqué must be neatly, securely and consistently located ensuring any raw
ends
are concealed and no puckering is evident.
 
         Piping
a) Piping must not be puckered, garment to be edge-stitched as close as possible to piping
where appropriate
 
         Beads and Sequins
a) Free from material defects
b) DO NOT STEAM SEQUINS, steam will damage them.
 
         Embroidery
a) Select appropriate backing on embroidery parts
b) NO BURNING MARK AROUND THE EMBROIDERY WILL BE ACCEPTED
c) Clean the chalk marks and oil stains.
 
Collar
 
         Collar make
a) Top collar should have a suitable fusible interlining attached by using a suitable fusing
press to ensure uniform temperature and pressure.
b) Fused collars should withstand 50 washes without evidence of bubbling.
c) Collar should be made by a plain sewing machine using a template to either pre-mark
the
required shape or stitch around.
d) When collars are bagged out, care must be taken to ensure points are fully turned
through
 without breakouts occurring. Collars must be carefully pressed to set shape.
e) Collar top stitching or under collar stitching must ensure that the collar seam does not
roll out and show on the top of the collar.
 
         Collar attachment
a) Collar should be quartered for shoulder seam and back neck alignment. Collar balance
from
shoulder to neck edge has a maximum tolerance of 5mm
b) Where no back neck facing is used, top collar is to be turned under and plain machined
down, or bound to conceal all raw edges.
c) Overlock edges are unacceptable.
d) Collar stand must align and be level at the centre front neck edge.
e) Collar must cover the collar attachment seam when rolled at the back neck. In two
piece collars the collar will normally be 5mm deeper at the back than the collar stand at
the back neck.
f) There should be a gap at the collar front neck to allow the collar peaks to roll over and
sit
properly. This gap should not exceed 5mm.
General Appearance
 
         No garment is acceptable which
a) is soiled, oil stained, or has dirty marks
b) has a hole or fabric faults
c) shows shading between accessories
d) shows shading between panels
e) has puckering and bubbling
f) has de-lamination of fusible interlining
g) has mill creasing
h) is poorly pressed.
 
 
16. QC Check points for SPECIFIC areas
Knitting of sweaters
•             Garment testing: wash test a garment, before shipment.
 
•             Bulk yarn confirmation: Knitting should not start until bulk yarn has been
confirmed by Creative Design Studio.
 
•             Linking: Missing stitches can form holes or other visible defects.
 
•             Measurements: Check frequently on this point.
 
•             Weight
 
Cutting process
•             Fabric upside down: Make sure the fabric is not upside down.
 •             Fabric skewing: A maximum skewing of 2 cm for chest of 60 cm is acceptable,
but not more. This defect can be solved by re-setting of the fabric at the fabric
mill.
•             Relaxation: Before cutting, knitted & elasticized woven fabrics should be
suitably relaxed for around 12 ~24 hours,                                     depending on the type of fabric. 
•             Height of cutting pile: The higher the pile on the cutting table, the more chance
the cut pieces are un-equal in size. This can lead to size spec- & fitting problems.
Make sure the height is suitable for the type of fabric (usually 2~3 inches and
never more than 5 inch). 
•             Numbering: Make sure the different parts are properly numbered to avoid
shading and that this numbering can be easily removed after sewing is complete.
•             Storing: Make sure the different parts are properly stored, for example rolled,
and not folded.
Sewing process
•             Critical operations: Check all critical operations repeatedly (like the sewing of
neck- seam, armhole, cuff, placket etc.), so the operator gets clear input of what is
required
and how to make it correctly, before large quantities of garments are finished. 
•             Seam allowance:  check operators repeatedly on this point to make sure they use
the correct seam allowance.
•             Numbering: Make sure the sewing operatives keep parts with the same number
together to avoid shading.
Check Buttoning:
•             Snap button too loose / too strong
•             Snap button not closing properly / broken
•             Missing poly washer for snap buttons
•             Button coming off
•             Fabric not strong enough to hold the button
•             Mark from molding
•             Paint damaged
•             Rust
•             Text on button not straight
•             Wrong position / not in line with counterpart / incorrect spacing
•             Button shank missing when required
•             Button hole too big or too small
•             Button hole not clean / badly stitched / loosing shape / stitched with wrong
thread quality
•             Spare button missing or put in wrong position
Check Pressing
•             Shiny marks
•             Not pressed or improperly pressed
•             Should avoid press and fold the pigment dyed fabrics before garment washing
entirely. It is because it will leave a clearly visible mark on the garment after
washing. After sewing, put the garments on a hanger until washing starts.
 
17. Garment washing & finishing
The washing process directly affects the quality of the washed garment. It must be ensured that
these processes are carried out under a controlled condition. Customer, merchandising, suppliers,
washing mills and QC should work together to agree a standard for this controlled condition.
Merchandiser should guide the supplier to fulfill all approval processes. This includes:
Approval color shade band
•             Cutting of all dye-lots from the fabric rolls, i.e. fabric before wash
•             Washed color standard in tube form with hemming, a minimum size of 6" by12"
•             The approved color shade band available on the first wash of all available dye-
lots.
•             Rejected dye-lots which are out of the acceptable shade band.
•             The full set of fabric quality swatches should be included in the QC files.
Documentation of the standard condition for washing and finishing
•             Merchandiser should prepare a documented quality standard and includes this in
the purchase orders.
•             The quality standard must be set correctly to avoid disagreement with buyers.
•             Customer and QC staff should work to the same quality standard to avoid
disagreement on quality.
To ensure an effective QC of fabric and washing quality, the customer, NN Fashion and factories
must have equal expectations regarding fabric quality and washing standard:
Fabric quality
•             Yarn count and yarn spinning method: ring spun or OE yarn
•             Construction: number of ends and number of picks
•             Fabric quality grade: number of defectives in 100 sq. yard and yarn quality
•             Dyeing method: rope dye, slash dye
Washing quality
•             Washing method: normal wash, stone wash, sand wash or enzyme wash
•             Bleaching method: stone bleach, garment bleach
•             Any special process. E.g. over-dye after washing process
•             Color tone of the blue yarn
•             Whiteness of the white yarn
•             Resultant color tone: bluer or yellowish
•             Rubbing effect: contrast on the blue yarn and white yarn
•             Evenness on the blue and white parts
•             Hand-feel
Monitoring and control
QC team should tighten the control on all outgoing shipments by the following steps:
•             Record the identification of the seal sample, quality standards on the final
inspection report to ensure QC check the bulk according to the correct standards.
•             Tick and sign all quality standards as an indication of proper QC checking
QC should not release the shipment if they find the following major faults:
•             Color out of the approved shade band
•             Fabric flaws and washing marks in excess of 1" on the garment zone above knee
•             Fabric flaws and washing marks in excess of 3" on any part of the garment
 
18. Cut part inspection
 All factories are required to conduct the cut part inspection. NN Fashion QC will do a system
audit to ensure the procedure is adhered at all time. The cut part inspection is necessary to
maintain the correct measurements of the garments.
The responsibility for the implementation and maintenance of this procedure lies jointly with the
following departments:
•             QA Manager / QC
•             Production Manager / Cutting room manager.
Procedure
         Mark approved customer pattern piece with tolerance to be signed by quality manager.
         All pattern pieces must be mounted on cards per size per style.
         Place mounted pattern under a clear plastic and check TOP, MIDDLE, BOTTOM plies.
         Check 30 % of every batch. Ensure all sizes are inspected.
         Count plies and ensure complete bundle.
         If pieces are not within tolerance, call Quality Manager immediately.
Cutwork tolerances
The cutting tolerance varies by customers, fabrication and styling. QC staff should agree the
tolerance with factories before cutting.
 
19. Fusing procedure
Before production commences, the factories should conduct fusing tests to ensure the fusing
machines are set correctly to prevent de-lamination or over strike of fusible interlining.
Fusing machine must be set up for the above conditions, using thermal strips. No production
must commence without a fusing machine test has been carried out at the appropriate time.
Batches which are fused in between test times must be color coded to aid identification / recall in
the event of a fusing machine test failure.
RESPONSIBILITY
•             The fabric technologist to ensure this procedure is adhered to.
•             Garment technologist to check the fusing test specification report every day at
the close of business.
PROCEDURE
The suppliers fusing test specification report must be available for reference (in close proximity
to the fusing machine) for the following:
•             Fabric details
•             Recommended interlining
•             Recommending fusing conditions
•             Speed time
•             Pressure and temperature
•             Results after wash
1)      Cut 3” x 8” squares of fabric and approved interlining
2)      Place the 3 pieces across the complete width of the fusing table, placing thermal strip
in between fabric and interlining.
3)      Pass the pieces through the full cycle of the machine.
4)      Wait for the pieces to cool and check that interlining has adhered thoroughly, with no
glue stripe through to the face side of the fabric.
5)      Check the thermal strip has changed color to the recommended temperature.
 6)      Check all 3 strips are consistent with one another. If they were showing any
difference, this would indicate the machine is not performing correctly and an
engineer must be consulted.
7)      After the required result has been achieved, the fabric pieces are to be placed in a
file.
8)      This will show the date of the test and the style number of the garments.
9)      When in production, this procedure is to be carried out three times per day, until the
style has been completed.
10)   These files will be signed and checked by NN Fashion QC staff on factory visit.
11)   An Engineer should check the fusing machine every 12 weeks and the date of visit
recorded.
12)   On a daily basis, a sample fused component to be durability wash tested. This piece
is to be checked by the garment and fabric technologists to ensure satisfactory
adhesion.
13)   The durability washed samples are to be labeled using self adhesive labels as
follows:
a) Date
b) Time
c) Style number
d) Passed/failed
14) The labeled washed sample will be retained on file for Inspection upon request
 
 
20. Start up production line
To ensure the sewing lines are set up correctly to produce the right products conform to the
technical specifications and approval samples. NN Fashion QC should work together with the
factory production personnel at the sewing lines to sign off work standards and train sewing
operatives with correct sewing technique.
         Persons involved - The team of 3 people must remain on the line at all times throughout the
introduction the new style. They are Line supervisor, Line mechanic and Line quality / Technical
person.
         Paperwork for Reference - The approval samples and copy of the comment card and pre-
production minutes will be referred to at all times.
         Checking the machine setting on the line - The line mechanic will work on each machine in
turn, following the check list below:
a)      Correct machine type and needle gauge i.e. Stitch bight and density, needles size,
threads and correct tension.
b)      Insert new needles of correct type/size
c)       Correct machine settings with all necessary guides, folders and attachments fitted
correctly
d)      Correct seam quality on correct fabric by simulating the operation required.
         Train the sewing operatives - The line supervisor/quality person will try each operation and will
then instruct the operator on how to handle the work.
         Set up work standard - The line quality person will show the operator the method of checking
work and after the first few pieces are produced, a sample accepted for standard of quality will
be taken from production and signed by quality manager and attached to machine in a plastic
 wallet. This is then to be used as a quality control standard for that machine throughout the life
of the style. The same standard must be achieved after any subsequent machine exchanges or
major machine repairs. Standard to be signed by NN Fashion QC manager / supervisor, wherever
possible.
         Operative specification sheet for Critical operations - The supervisor must also complete the
“operative specification sheet” on the CRITICAL OPERATIONS, showing needle type/size
thread type, number of stitches, etc. The operatives sew samples of operation, which is correct
against technical specifications and approval samples. The signed “operative specification sheet”
and the correct sew sample must be placed in plastic wallet.
         Measuring aids - Any operation requiring measurement checks to be done, must have all
necessary markers/measuring aids positioned correctly on machine by quality person.
         End of Line Standard - When line is completely set up, one garment must be checked and
measured and signed by Quality / Garment Technical as End of Line Standard.
         Get the job done - The team will only leave the line when all operator specification sheets have
been signed by all parties named on the operator specification sheet.
         Quality control or Technical Manager must ensure operative specification sheet filled out
correctly and critical quality points recorded.  He / she must ensure operator supervisor and
mechanic understand what is required for correct sewn sample.
 
21. The inline inspection
An inline inspection is conducted while work is in progress. This is to identify and resolve
problems in manufacturing to prevent garment rejects. This includes:
         Evaluation of workmanship, measurement, labeling and packaging at THE START OF EACH
OPERATION.
         Signs off pressing standards and packing standards
         Recommend corrective actions if garment rejects.
The inspection procedure should be systematic and include these steps:
1)      Check styling, material & color combinations
o  Compare the production sample to approval sample
o Check the production sample to fabric and trim cards
o Color assessment – check dye lot variation
2)      Unit weight check (for flat knit sweaters only)
o 3 random pieces per size must be weighted and an average for the whole order must be
calculated. This average can not deviate more than 5% of the agreed weight in the order.
3)      Check size specification
o Conformity to size specification
4)      Functional check
o Check if the product is suitable for its intended purpose by wearer trial. Try the garment on a
person, if not possible, use a dummy instead. This fit check is very important, because this is
exactly what the consumer is doing in the store.
o Check the buttoning, bar tacking and buttonhole to ensure the fitness of the products.
5)      Workmanship checks
o Visual examination for workmanship
o Check each piece carefully at inside & outside for any possible defects.
 
 QC Inspector must complete an inspection report to include:
         Workmanship Inspection Report
o List comments on all points of workmanship which do not meet required standards and suggest
the corrective actions.
         Measurement check report
o A full measurement report on 3 pieces in each size. If a measurement falls outside the zone of
tolerance it is circled.
This report must be filed at the front of the QC file.
QC should fax or email the failed inspection reports to the attention of the QC coordinator no
later than 1 day following the inspection. QC manager / supervisor should discuss with
merchandising if the problem cannot be rectified.
 
 
22. Top samples / rack samples / shipment samples
The customers have their specific requirements for top samples. Different customer may use
different terminology such as rack samples / shipment samples / gold seal samples but the
submission procedure is more or less the same. Following is the typical example of the Top
sample procedure.
Top samples send by factories
As soon as the first batch is completed the factory should send 2 sets of top samples to NN
Fashion merchandisers.  One full color set is to be sent to customers following a complete
inspection and the other set is a ‘keep’ for the office. The samples must be sent including
complete packing accessories, like hang tag, hanger, poly-bag & UPC.
Checking of Top samples
         NN Fashion Merchandiser to check
 a) Fabric/Colors as approved
b) Accessories / Trims as approved
c) Style details as approved
d) Measurements as final size spec
e) Write out sample card
 
         NN Fashion QC to check
a) Measurement as final size spec
b) Technical make-up as requested
c) Add extra comments to sample card
While the actual sending to our office can be left to the factory in most cases, the QC is
responsible for checking the samples and should follow-up on the prompt delivery to our
merchandisers.
All “keep” top samples and QC reports will be kept by merchandisers.
If there are multi shipments for the same style, a new top sample is required per each shipment.
Availability of Top sample before Final inspection
Merchandiser must obtain Top Samples from the factory before they can arrange the final
inspection. QC will check with merchandisers if the customers have signed off the Top Samples.
 
 
23. Random inspection method
The NN Fashion uses the AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) random sampling plan for quality
audit of our products. It is based on the ISO2859 / BS 6001 / DIN 40080 / ANSI/ASQC Z1.4
(MIL-STD-105E) sampling procedure. This is a random sampling inspection method and is the
most widely recognized method of sampling by attributes based on the mathematical theory of
probability. The procedure provides the number of samples to be inspected in a given lot /
shipment size. It also provides specific criteria for acceptance or rejection of a shipment/lot
based on the number of defects found, and provides a fair assessment, to both buyers and sellers,
of product quality.
Key definitions
Audit:                   the inspection and examination of products to ensure compliance to
requirements
Lot / batch:         group of items for inspection.
Defect:                 a deviation from requirements.
Defective:           a unit of product that contains one or more defects. The quality of any given
quantity of product is expressed either as the percentage defective or as the number of defects per
hundred units.
Sampling plan:  a specific plan that indicates the sampling sizes and associated has acceptance
or no acceptance criteria to be used.
Accept Number: the maximum number of defects allowable in a sampling lot for the lot to be
acceptable
Rejection number: the smallest number of defectives (or defects) in a sample or samples under
consideration that will require the rejection of the lot
Classification of defects: the listing of possible defects in a unit, classified according to their
seriousness e.g. critical, major & minor
Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)
In a continuing series of lots, Acceptable Quality Level is a quality level that, for the purpose of
sampling inspection, is the limit of a satisfactory process average.
Acceptable quality level is the 'only just acceptable' quality, i.e. the minimum quality that can be
considered acceptable as the average quality level of the production. However, the designation of
an AQL does not imply that the manufacturer has the right to knowingly supply any defective
product.
 23.1 AQL Table
For workmanship check - the workmanship will be checked against the following table:
ISO2859
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plans
Normal Inspection, Level II
  Functional Major Minor
AQL 0.65 2.5 4.0
Lot Size Sample Size Maximum allowable defectives
91           -              150 20 0 1 2
151         -              280 32 0 2 3
281         -              500 50 0 3 5
501         -              1,200 80 1 5 7
1,201     -              3,200 125 2 7 10
3,201     -              10,000 200 3 10 14
 10,000   -              35,000 315 5 14 21
35,001   -              500 7 21 --
150,000
 
For measurement check - the measurement will be checked against the following table:
ISO2859
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plans
Normal Inspection, Level I
  Critical measurements Non-Critical measurements
AQL 2.5 4.0
Lot Size Sample Size Maximum allowable garment that out of tolerance
151         -              280 13 0 1
281         -              500 20 1 2
501         -              1,200 32 2 3
1,201     -              3,200 50 3 5
3,201     -              10,000 80 5 7
10,000   -              35,000 125 7 10
35,001   -              150,000 200 10 14
 
Packing check - the packing accuracy will be checked against the following table:
ISO2859
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plans
Normal Inspection, Level I
  Mail order Retail
AQL 1.5 2.5
Lot Size Sample Size Maximum allowable major defectives
151         -              280 13 0 0
281         -              500 20 0 1
501         -              1,200 32 1 2
1,201     -              3,200 50 2 3
3,201     -              10,000 80 3 5
10,000   -              35,000 125 5 7
35,001   -              200 7 10
150,000
 
 
 
24. The 8 steps in the Pre-final / Final inspection
To ascertain that the quality level of a bulk order is acceptable for shipment, inspections are
completed on all orders to ensure that the quality of the bulk production is as agreed at approval
sample stage.
 The final inspection plan will take place when production at least 95% of the products packed.
The quality and quantity of products are check against the order, quality standards and approval
sample.
The procedure should be systematic and include these 8 steps:
 
Step 1: Check outer packaging
         Shipment mark - Check the shipping mark printed on the carton. Record the front mark and side
mark to the Shipment Release Letter.
         Numbering of carton - Select carton for the AQL inspection. Check and record the number of
selected carton to the Shipment Release Letter.
         Strength of carton board – carton board not collapse when stack up.
         No under pack - Not collapse when the cartons stack up.
         No over pack -the cartons can be stacked up and not tilted.
         Check Gross carton weight- More than allowed, usually 16 kg max.
 
Step 2: Check inner packaging and assortment
         Check inner package – with correct marking for size and color indication, with “warning for
suffocation”.
         Correct assortment - check the content of the inner package for correct size & color assortment
which match the size / color ratio as listed on purchase Orders.
         Hang-tag - are the barcode tags or swing tickets incorrect or missing?
         Check Labeling
o             Is there a correct logo?
o             Is there a correct label size?
o             Are there correct labels with fiber content and wash care instructions?
         Bar code verification – use bar code verifier to check 5 samples.
         Shipped quantity – the shipped quantity within +/-5% of the order quantity. Any case of over-
ship or short-ship more than 5% must be approved by customers / merchandisers.
         Packing accuracy – the content of the carton match with the packing list
Classification of defect – labeling and packaging
LABELLING AND PACKAGING
Code DEFECT CLASSIFICATION
L1 Incorrect or missing main label Major
L2 Incorrect or missing country of original label Critical
L2 Incorrect or missing fibre content label Critical
L3 Incorrect or missing care label Critical
L7 Incorrect or missing swing ticket, price ticket, UPC sticker Critical
L3 Incorrect size label Major
L4 Label not secure Major
L6 Labels not in correct position Major
L8 Incorrect multiple item packs Major
L9 Carton box, too big or too small Major
L10 Carton board too thin, box crashed Major
L11 Incorrect display box Major
 L13 Wrong shipping mark Major
 
Correct labeling is extremely important. This is usually a legal requirement and buyer will have a
zero tolerance for defects on this point.
 
Step 3: metal detection
Purpose
To ensure no metal contamination in finished products which would hurt the customers and
cause claim or legal actions against the NN Fashion and vendors / factories
 
Responsibility
The responsibility for the implementation and maintenance of this procedure lies jointly with the
following departments:
-              Line supervisors
-              Pin controller
-              Production Manager
-              Factory QC manager
Procedure
Manufacturers should use conveyor type metal detectors to scan all products. The metal
detection can ensure all packed goods contain no extraneous metal objects. Manufacturers should
maintain calibration and metal contamination logbooks for the past 12 months.
Calibration of the metal detector
Put a 1.2 mm steel ball through the aperture of the metal detector. Put the steel ball through the
top / middle / bottom and left / centre / right of the aperture, this is known as the 9- point
sensitivity test.
Conduct the 9 point sensitivity test before start metal detection or every 2 hours when the
machine in use.
Method of metal detection
Do the metal detection twice in two orientations.
Program step for NN Fashion QC
NN Fashion QC must put the random sample through the metal detection before doing open the
poly-bag for inspection. This is a mandatory procedure for the following items:
         Products used by children with age below 12
         Underwear
         Any items if required by customers
QC completes the Metal Contamination Log Sheet by each style. QC should keep the finished
record in the QC file.
 
Step 4: Check styling, material & color combinations
Presentation - compare the production sample against approval sample
o   Do the garments meet retailing standards?
o   Are the garments crushed, creased or glazed?
o   Are the garments soiled, stained or wet?
o   Is the fit as per the approved samples?
Components and Trims - Check the production sample to fabric and trim cards
o   Are the components or trims rusting, tarnishing or broken?
o   Are there incorrect attachments (for example handles)?
o   Are the zippers faulty or incorrect?
o   Are the tie cords correct?
o   Are there printing or dyeing faults?
o   Are there faults in the fabric or interlining?
o   Trims matching color, unless contrast color is required.
Color assessment - check dye lot variation
o   Does shading vary within the garment?
o   Does shading vary from garment to garment?
Step 5: Unit weight check (for flat knit sweaters only)
3 random pieces per size must be weighted and an average for the whole order must be
calculated. This average can not deviate more than 5% of the agreed weight in the order.
Step 6: Check Measurements
Check the measurements to ensure that the finished garments are within tolerance. The garment
will be classified as ‘reject’ if any measuring point found exceeds the tolerance.
Critical Measurements
For certain measurement discrepancies, they will badly affect the fit of the garment. These
measurements are classified as “critical”. It is required to highlight the critical measurements on
the reports with an * so everyone can draw a special attention on this.
Following is the list of the critical measurements:
For tops:      
- Chest / bust - Across shoulders - Hem / Sweep - Garment length

- Across Front - Across Back - Sleeve length - Sleeve opening

- Armhole - Neck width - Neck Drop

For Bottoms:      
- Waist relaxed - High hip - Low hip - Thigh

- Inseam - Out seam - Front rise - Back rise

- Leg opening - Hem / Sweep

Sampling plan for measurement checks

Measure a minimum of 1 unit per color per size for all measurement points. At least measure 3
units for each size.
Example 1:
An order with 8 sizes and 5 colors,
The random sample is 1 units X 8 sizes X 5 colors = 40 units.
Example 2:
For the order with 8 sizes and 2 colors, apply the rule of “At least measure 3 units for each size’
here.
The random sample is 3 units X 8 sizes = 24 units, which include 2 colors.
Take the full measurements of 2 garments for each size. Measure the critical measurements for
the balance of the random sample.
 Acceptance decision
The acceptance will be assessed by checking the conformity of measurements to the size
specification.
Pass – if all measurements of the random examples meet the specification.
Fail - if any measurement point is found out of tolerance.
2nd audit
If the first measurement check failed, it is required to check further on those measurements
which are out of tolerance consistently. Draw a new random sample based on the AQL method,
Single Sampling Plans, Normal Inspection, Level I to decide the acceptance.
The acceptance of measurements is judged per color per size per measuring point. Check the
measurements of the particular color / size that were out of tolerance during the 1st audit and
make conclusion of acceptance accordingly.
  Critical measurements Non-Critical measurements
AQL 2.5 4.0
Lot Size Sample Size Maximum allowable garment that out of tolerance
281         -              500 20 1 2
501         -              1,200 32 2 3
1,201     -              3,200 50 3 5
3,201     -              10,000 80 5 7
 
 
Standard measurement tolerances
All production must comply with the style details and production method as the sample approved
by NN Fashion QA Department. In addition, production items must comply with standard
measurement tolerances as specified by customers.
In case the customers do not specify the measurement tolerance, NN Fashion standard
measurement tolerances will be applied. Appropriate measurement tolerances are determined by
the NN Fashion QC manager. The following factors will be considered:
         Fabric type which will have different reaction to distortion
         Any special treatment that may distort the fabric
Two Levels of Control on Tolerances
According to the fabric types and degree of distortion after treatment, the measurement
tolerances are controlled on two levels:
Level 1 - Slight distortion garment
         All woven except silks and rayon, washed and non washed
         Denim, stone washed and heavily processed
         Fine knits, non washed
Level 2 - Easily distorted garment
         Silks, Rayon Woven, washed and non washed
         Fine knits, washed
         Sweater
         Garment dyed items
         All rib knits
         Hand-knit sweater
 
Tolerances for tops
         This chart applies to shirts, blouses, dresses and coats
         All measurements are Full measure or otherwise specified
         Half measurements will be applied when checking the girth measurements. These measurements
are marked on the chart with (1/2)
         All tolerances are plus or minus
measurement level 1 level 1 level 2 level 2
Body length 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm
Body width (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm
Waist width (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm
Bottom width (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm
Sleeve length 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Armhole  (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Sleeve muscle (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Cuff opening  (1/2) 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Total neck circumference 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Body length for dresses, coats 1" 2.5cm 1-1/4" 3.0cm
 
Tolerances for bottoms
         This chart applies to pants, shorts and skirts.
         Unit of measurement may be in inches or cm.
         All measurements are Full measure, or otherwise specified.
         Half measurements will be applied when checking the girth measurements. These measurements
are marked on the chart with (1/2)
         All tolerances are plus or minus
Measurement level 1 level 1 level 2 level 2
Waist 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm
Hip (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Tight  (1/2) 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Knee (1/2) 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Bottom (1/2) for pants 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Bottom (1/2) for shorts 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Inseam for pants 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Inseam for shorts 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Front rise 1/2" 1.3cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Back rise 1/2" 1.3cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Sweep of Skirt 3/4" 2.0cm 1" 2.5cm
Sweep of Skirt over 80" 1" 2.5cm 2" 5.0cm
 
Step 7: Functional check
 Check if the product is suitable for it’s intended purpose by wearer trial. Try the garment on a
person, if not possible, use a dummy instead. This fit check is very important, because this is
exactly what the consumer is doing in the store.
 
Step 8: Workmanship check
Conduct visual examination for workmanship. Check each piece carefully at inside & outside for
any possible defects.
o   Are the seams insecure, puckered, grinning, roping or twisting?
o    Is there needle damage (including laddering)?
o   Are there excessive threads or poor trimming?
o   Are the collars, pockets, zippers or darts incorrectly sewn or are panels not properly aligned?
o   Are buttons, buttonholes, or studs misaligned or mismatched?
The random inspection plan
This is applied to determine the acceptance of a shipment.  The main purpose of the sampling
procedure is to control the acceptance of products at a quality level that is equal to or better than
the acceptable quality level (AQL). It is the 'only just acceptable' quality, i.e. the poorest
(minimum) quality that can be considered acceptable as the average quality level of the
production.
AQL procedure
         A random sample is chosen for inspection according to a selected sampling plan with a
predetermined acceptable quality level (AQL).
         The AQL for our products can be set at different level depending on the quality level of each
individual customer.
The sample lot will be checked piece by piece. The defects are marked and classified as critical /
major/ minor.
 
 
25. Classification of defects
Defects in workmanship are classified as ‘Critical’, ‘functional’, ‘major’ and ‘minor’.
         Critical – Anything that is likely to pose a safety hazard to the customer / end user, or not
comply with any mandatory regulations. The entire shipment is likely to be recalled or returned
to manufacturer that may also cause the product to be subject to legal prosecution. Zero tolerance
will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a shipment.
         Functional - anything that is like to result in failure, or to reduce materially the usability of the
unit for its intended end use. A functional defect will in all probability result in the customer with
justification for non-purchase, returning the product for exchange or refund thus affecting the
customer or product reputation.
         Major - Any obvious aesthetic non-conformity which adversely affects the appearance including
fit or customer satisfaction to a degree that would provide a discerning customer with
justification for non-purchase, returning the product for exchange or refund thus affecting the
customer or product reputation.
         Minor - Any variation from the standard that is not likely to reduce the usability of the product
for its intended purpose. A minor problem may give a degree of consumer dissatisfaction.
Several Minor problems together may lead to the customer returning the item.
Example of critical defects
         Severe damage in the materials and / or finish, like heavy needle holes and fabric defects in
clearly visible places
         Essential parts missing
         Broken zipper
         No possibility to wash or dry clean by consumer
         Un-wearable / ill fitting
         Hazardous or unsafe conditions. For example, sewing needle left in garment.
         Violation of Federal regulation. For example, country of origin label missing/incorrect.
Example of Major defects
         Violation of customer quality standard For example, holes, rips, tears, shading/stains.
Example of Minor defect
         Does not render the garment un-saleable but it will decrease value. For example, small
knots/ slubs in textiles.
Critical faults are always un-acceptable with zero tolerance.
These garments must be rejected completely.
Common Sense & Judgment
In addition to current legislation and the specific requirements of the customers, it is assumed
that “common sense” is the best guide when deciding whether a defect or feature is to be
classified as critical.
It is recognized that certain features or defects may vary in their degree of severity to the extent
that “best judgment” must be used to determine whether a defect is major or minor.
When in doubt, the default decision should be based on the more severe classification.
If classification defect cannot be determined during the inspection, NN Fashion QC should send
garment sample or digital photos to QC managers and merchandisers for further judgment.
 
 
 
 
26. Verifying the Acceptability of a Shipment
The acceptability of a shipment is determined by the nature and number of defects found in the
selected random sample.
A random sample is selected from the finished lot. The random sample lot will be checked piece
by piece. The defects are marked and classified as critical / functional / major/ minor. The
product will be classified as defective by the following standard:
         1+ Major defect on a garment will be counted as 1 Major defective.
         3 Minor defects on a garment will be counted as 1 Major defective.
         1-2 minor defects on a garment will be counted as 1 Minor defective.
The NN Fashion AQL is:
Critical defect – zero tolerance
Functional defect – AQL 0.65
Major defect - AQL 2.5
Minor defect - AQL 4.0
The counting of “major defect” should include “functional defect” which is controlled by AQL
2.5
 The number of defectives will be recorded and compared with the AQL Table. If the number of
defectives falls within the permissible number in the specified lot size, the shipment will be
passed. If the number exceeds the permissible number, the shipment will be rejected.
For example:
GIVEN: An order of 2000 garments
AQL standard: AQL 0.65 for functional, AQL 2.5 for major and AQL 4.0 for minor METHOD:
ISO 2859, Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection – Level II Inspected unit: 125 garments
The shipment can be rated as “Pass”. The maximum allowable defectives are:
         7 major defectives which may include maximum of 2 functional defectives and
         10 minor defectives.
The shipment will be classified as “FAIL” if
         Find any critical defect or
         The functional defect more than 2 pieces or
         The major defect more than 7 pieces or
         The minor defect more than 10 pieces
 
27. Fault categories
The following pages that describe the types of defect and their severity are not intended to cover
every type of fault. Experience has shown that 99.9% of all shipments that contain substandard
or poor quality do so as a result of one or more of the specific faults listed in this section.
The quality control of merchandise is based on the standards contained in this document. If the
supplier through a recognized, disciplined process of quality control applies these guidelines, the
likelihood of substandard or poor quality merchandise reaching a client is almost eliminated.
The types of defect are grouped under 5 fault categories:
         Critical: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the customer or
end user.
         Wash & wear: All faults associated with the fit and the after care of the garment
         Raw material and components: All faults associated with the technical appearance and
performance of the fabric and trims.
         Aesthetics: the faults affect the overall appearance of the garment, other than the technical
appearance and performance of the fabric and the color.
         Construction: All faults associated with the process of sewing the garment.
27.1 Fault categories and fault codes
Each fault code has been given a specific reference code. This is to simplify the communication,
recording and reporting of defect types.
Critical
Product conformity (Check against approved Sample and Specification)
Code Defect Classification
Loose components that could be considered to be choking Critical
Z1 hazard

Any component  with a sharp edge or point that could cut or Critical
Z2 cause bodily harm to a customer
Loose stones in a garment that has been “stone washed” Critical
Z3 and which is intended for a child
 Drawstrings at the head or neck of a garment that is intended Critical
Z4 for a child
Any other fault or defect that might cause injury to the end Critical
Z5 user
 
 
 
Wash and wear
Product conformity (Check against approved Sample and Specification)
Code Defect Classification
Q1 Overall appearance Major
Q2 Fit on Dummy (size/capacity) Major
Q3 Does not satisfactorily complete 5 full performance cycles Major
Q4 Washing or finishing standard Major
Q5 Garment Shape (Knit wear) Major
Q6 Side seam twisted >2 cm or 5% of the length of side seam Major
 
27.1 Fault categories and fault codes
Raw materials and components
Fabric
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
F1 Cuts, holes, tears, Broken yarn Major Major
F2 Weight +/- 5% (knitwear) Major Major
F3 Handle / softness different to quality standard Major Major
F4 Print/Design different to specification Major Major
F5 Wash effect different to quality standard Major Major
F6 Fabric flaws, Barrie’, weaving faults, slubs longer than 2cm Major Minor
F7 Colour bleeding Major Major
F8 Foreign particles caught into the fabric (contamination) Major Major
F9 Stop marks, broken / missing p ic k and fill in woven Major Minor
F10 Needle lines in a knitted fabric Major Minor
F11 Bowing or skewing of the fabric Major Minor
F12 Knot or repair that affects appearance of the fabric Major Major
F13 Dye spots that are obviously noticeable Major Minor
Trims – button, stud etc
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
T1 Defective, broken, cracked Major Major
T2 Not as design / specification requirement Major Minor
T3 Omission of component Major Minor
Zippers
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
T6 Incorrect zipper type/size/color used Major Minor
T7 Zipper not auto-stop as specified Major Major
 T8 Top or bottom metal clip stick out and form a sharp point. Major Major
T9 Invisible zipper showing due to improper stitching Major Minor
T10 Zipper end not securely finished. Major Major
T11 Zipper waving Major Minor
Interlinings
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
T12 Strike through – adhesive melts through to face fabric Major Major
T13 Rippling – corrugation of fabric or fusing Major Minor
T14 Bubbling – areas of unfused interlining/fabric Major Minor
T15 Delaminating – fusing peels away from fabric Major Major
T16 Incorrect color Major Minor
 
 
27.2 Fault categories and fault codes
Aesthetics
Color
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
C1 Colour different to standard Major Major
C2 Shade bar Major minor
C3 Shade parts (panel to panel) Major minor
C4 Off approved shade band (tops to bottoms) Major
Appearance
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
G1 Impression marks, glazing, abrasion Major Minor
G2 Pleats visible, excess crease Major Minor
G3 Mould Major Major
G4 Infestation Major Major
G5 Dampness Major Major
G6 Excessive odor Major Major
Cleanliness and thread trimming
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
D1 Spot cleaning circle Major Major
D2 Dirt, chalk mark, oil stain over 0.5cm in diameter Major Minor
D3 Threads not trimmed over 3cm Major Minor
D4 Excessive quantity and length of loose threads Major Major
Printing
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
P1 Design or colour different to specification Major Major
P2 Printing design not clear Major minor
P3 Uneven printing (smudging) Major minor
P4 Printing off registration Major minor
P5 Cracking of print Major Major
Embroidery
 Code Defect Zone A Zone B
E1 Design, size, colour different to specification Major Minor
E2 Crooked, tight tension of thread Major Minor
E3 Uneven in shape Major Minor
E4 Not level Major Minor
E5 Off Position over 1cm Major Minor
E6 Omitted, incomplete Major Major
E7 Broken, loose stitch, unravelling Major Major
 
 
 
27.2 Fault categories and fault codes
Construction
Layered construction (Pocket/ flap/ Zipper stand/ Placket/ Waistband/ Cuff/ Collar)
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
A1 Pleated, twisted or bulging Major Minor
A2 Distorted, poorly Shaped Major Minor
A3 Misaligned over 0.3cm (flap over a pocket) Major Minor
A4 Underneath visible on front (under collar showing) Major Major
A5 Uneven in width Major Minor
A6 Fullness unevenly distributed Major Minor
A7 Paired components not symmetrical in shape or position Major Minor
A8 Hi Lo over 0.5cm, 2 pockets / yoke seams Major Minor
A9 Collar points which vary more than 2.5mm Major Major
A10 Uneven placket width Major Major
A11 Top and bottom placket uneven in length by 3 mm+ Major Major
Sewing
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
S1 Run off stitching, over 2 steps Major Minor
S2 Twist seam (roping) Major Minor
S3 Puckering Major Minor
S4 Open seam (non-inclusion) Major Major
S5 Wrong sewing thread Major Minor
S6 Skip stitch Major Minor
S7 Broken stitch, over 1 step for washed garment Major Minor
S8 Drop stitch (knit wear) Major Major
S9 Wrong tension Major Minor
S10 Raw edge over 1cm (over locking) Major Major
S11 Distortion Major Minor
S12 Un-slightly over-lapping stitch (untidy joint) Major Minor
S13 Misalignment over 0.3cm Major Minor
S14 Needle damage Major Major
Button / Stud/ Buttonhole / Keyhole
 Code Defect Zone A Zone B
B1 Incorrect size of buttonhole/keyhole for button/stud Major Minor
B2 Button/Stud and buttonhole not aligning Major Major
B3 Button and buttonhole position not as specification required Major Minor
B4 Incomplete stitching or uncut buttonhole/keyhole Major Minor
B5 One or more skipped stitches in buttonhole Major Minor
B6 Buttonhole fraying causing button to catch on thread Major Major
B7 Buttonhole poorly stitched affecting appearance Major Minor
B8 Engraved button/stud placed upside down Major Minor
B9 Buttonhole/Keyhole fraying around edges Major Minor
B10 Button or buttonhole thread color different to specification Major Minor
B11 Not attached securely Major Major
 
 
 
28. Writing QC reports
NN Fashion QC must complete and sign all copies of inspection reports. The inspection report
will be sent to NN Fashion office the next working day after inspection. QA Manager must sign
all summary sheets upon return to office and pass the report to merchandisers for shipping and
accounting processing.
QC Inspector must complete a 3 page final inspection report to include:
1.       Workmanship Inspection Report
o List comments on all points of workmanship which do not meet required standards together
with a final result Passed / Failed.
2.       Measurement check report
o A full measurement report records the measurement of at least 3 pieces in each size. If a
measurement falls outside the zone of tolerance, it is circled.
3.       The shipment letter (Summary Page with packing details)
o Indicates the final result upon which the QC has agreed.
The supplier will be asked to sign the reports and receive a copy. The shipment release letter
(SRL) will only be released once results have been reviewed and shipment released.
Accepted
o All sheets to be signed by supplier and a copy of the SRL   passed over for release of shipment.
Reject
o If the goods do not pass inspection, the QC Inspector cannot release the SRL to the supplier.
Without the shipment release letter, factories have no authorization to ship the goods
This report must be filed at the front of the case file and the file returned to Merchandising
within a maximum of 1 day following inspection.
In case it takes time to transfer the report to office, QC should fax or email the reports to the
attention of the merchandiser no later than 1 day following the inspection.
 
 
 29. Closing Meeting after inspection
 Immediately following the QC inspection, NN Fashion QC will hold a meeting with factory
production personnel to review the result of the inspection.
An authorized representative of the factory must sign the inspection reports to acknowledge their
understanding of the QC report:
         Understand and review all findings of NN Fashion QC staff
         Raise questions and suggestions
         Liaise with production staff and main office to solve problem
Inspection results
The NN Fashion QC indicates the inspection results clearly on the QC reports. Merchandising
follows up with factory and /or customer if the shipment day is affected.
Passed
         The shipment is released.
         The Shipment Release letter will be released to factories.
         Files can be returned to Merchandising after QC manager sign off copies of final inspection
report.
Rejected
In case the shipment is rejected, the factory management and QC have to agree a corrective
action.
 
Repairable
         If possible the factory must repair the faults and a second final inspection be arranged.
         If the goods can be repaired quickly or out sorted as only a small percentage.
The factory will then proceed with this process immediately, and a 2nd final inspection arranged.
Non-repairable
         QC reports the case to QC manager and Merchandising
         Merchandising advises customer to see if the defect can be accepted or not.
         Merchandising follows up with the supplier afterward.
         Following is the possible outcome:
o   Customer takes in the goods with discount
o   Style cancelled and not replaced
o   Style to be replaced
 
Repairable but time not allowed for the same shipment date to be maintained
         QC advises QC manager and the merchandiser of this situation
         Merchandising follows up with the supplier for a solution
         Merchandising informs the customer of a late shipment and obtains their further instruction.
Following is the possible outcome:
         A new shipment date agreed with the customer.
         If the customer will not agree to a delayed shipment, an agreement must be reached between
customer/ NN Fashion /Factory about “how to ship”.
         Send to Customer for further comment. Customer may accept goods or they may require a
discount to accept
Signatures
         QC - must sign all copies once supplier signed.
         QC Manager - must sign all summary sheets upon return to office.
  
 
30. Shipment release procedure
Purpose
To ensure the shipment is released to the forwarders with proper NN Fashion QC sign off.
Scope
No shipment should leave the country without passing our QC inspection. All related
departments work closely together to ensure no faulty lot to be shipped to customers.
Responsibility
         QC issues Shipment Release Letter, SRL when the shipment passes final inspection
         The vendor has to present this SRL to the forwarder together with the cargo.
         The forwarder cannot take in any merchandise if the factory can present this shipment release
letter when they deliver the cargo to the forwarder.
Procedure
         Issue of shipment release letter - QC issues the SRL if the final inspection is passed. This SRL
should be printed on copy paper with 2 copies behind the original and handed to the following
parties:
o   Original - stays in the QC File
o   First copy – give to the vendor on site
o   Second copy – to Shipping Department within 2 working days after the inspection
day.
         The vendor and QC should sign the SRL at the factory; no QC manager signature is required at
this point. QC manger will sign the SRL when QC handover the file to office.
         Pass the SRL to the forwarder - the vendor passes the ORIGINAL COPY of the SRL to the
forwarder and keeps a photocopy as own record.
         Physical copy / e-mail: In case physical handover is not possible or practical, the vendor can
request Shipping department to routinely e-mail the SRL as an attachment to the forwarder.
         Expenses related to shipment cancellation: The vendors are responsible for any additional
expenses related to shipment cancellations, due to failed inspections, late or missing SRL’s. Most
vendors can cancel the shipment booking up to 2 days before closing time without additional
charges. However, different regulations might apply for different forwarders and countries.
         Processing by the FORWARDER - the customer’s Forwarder should accept cargo, only if
vendor can present the original copy of the SRL to them. If goods arrive without such SRL, they
should contact our Shipping department for confirmation.
         Failed inspections: In case the goods failed to pass final inspection, QC will stop the
shipment at the factories. The shipping department will also notify the forwarder accordingly to
cancel the shipping booking and ask them not to accept the cargo.