Implementing the Solar Dump Arrangement: A Personal Account by Martin Brent March 2021

Sketch by Phil Brooke-Little

For those that have difficulty understanding schematic

diagrams I have now included a pictorial diagram as an
appendix to help visualise the method used in wiring it
all together.

Introduction

This is simply the way that I personally carried out this project as per Phil’s sketch and it works very well for me.
You may wish to source your own items but this is just a guide.

My solar set-up is around 1700Wp limited by the 60A MPPT on a 24v battery system, with the 1kW a.c.
immersion heater supplied from the inverter. The calorifier is a vertical mounted SureCal 55 litre size.

This wiring sketch has been published on this site several times by Phil Brooke-Little and he has given willingly of
his advice and diagrams when asked by me to ensure safety.

In this update I have removed the specific links on eBay for the component parts and instead have given eBay
generic links. Then if a seller stops supplying a particular component then there should be other sellers to make
your choice from. I have also included an alternative smart relay for those with 24v systems and have done a
small amount of experienced based editing but the implementation details remain unchanged.

Components
The components I used were the smart relay and power controller bought on eBay; either copy and paste the
item’s description given into eBay’s search field or click on the link below it.

Smart Relay: [12V Voltage Detection Charging Discharge Monitor Relay Switch Control Module]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=12V+Voltage+Detection+C
harging+Discharge+Monitor+Relay+Switch+Control+Module&_sacat=0

As an alternative to the 12v smart relay for those with 24v systems and with no access to a 12v supply (for the
working power interface on the smart relay); this relay may be used instead. Though I have not used it myself as I
had access to a handy regulated 12v supply.

Alternative Smart Relay: [Multifunction Cycle Delay Timer Relay Module for timing and counting]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=Multifunction+Cycle+Delay
+Timer+Relay+Module+for+timing+and+counting&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=12V+Voltage+
Detection+Charging+Discharge+Monitor+Relay+Switch+Control+Module

However, there is a YouTube video detailing its review and setting up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eT3Ie1bMkJk
Power Controller: [4000W 220V SCR Voltage Regulator Dimmer Electric Motor Speed Controller Module]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=4000W+220V+SCR+Voltag
e+Regulator+Dimmer+Electric+Motor+Speed+Controller+Module&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_fcid=3&_sop=7&
_osacat=0&_odkw=4000W+220V+SCR+Voltage+Regulator+Dimmer+Electric+Motor+Speed+Controller+Module
&_stpos=CV13+6PG

And not forgetting the 2.5mm2 arctic blue flex for the wiring.
Flex: [Arctic Blue 3183 AG Flex Cable 3core 1.5, 2.5, 4mm Caravan Camping Artic]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=Arctic+Blue+3183+AG+Fle
x+Cable+3core+1.5%2C+2.5%2C+4mm+Caravan+Camping+Artic&_sacat=0
It may be possible to use 1.5mm2 flex as my immersion switch load is 1kW and has this flex used.

The d.c. cable I already had, 1.0mm2 bought from 12volt Planet: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/plain-copper-
multi-core-thin-wall-cable.html

Because of the mains high voltage, the components need mounting in enclosures. I chose ones with ample room
for the cable entries, wiring involved and with clear lids. The relay enclosure I used measured 120x80x50mm and
also had large securing screws for the lid, making it easier for future access if required.
The clear lids mean checking the voltage reading and LED are easy and also to be able to easily spot a problem
should anything untoward happen.

This relay enclosure I also bought on eBay but this seller is no longer listed, but there are many to choose from.
Enclosures: [Clear Cover Enclosures]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=clear+cover+enclosures&_sacat=92074&LH_TitleDesc=0&
_sop=7

The power controller enclosure I bought from R.S. Components (Stock No. 127-1065) and measures
155x95x60mm, but you may find something suitable in the above eBay link.

Then from R.S. Components I also bought the following items; Stock No. Cable glands – 702-3296 & 702-3283,
3mm thread female spacers – 102-6362 & 161-3680, 3mm thread pan head and countersunk screws (5mm
length) – 483-0091 & 908-7488 and Wago connectors – 883-7548 & 883-7544. The smaller sized cable gland
was used for the d.c. cabling, it being much smaller and all the cables need to be securely clamped/supported.
Also, two 10mm length x 3mm pan head machine screws are needed for mounting the power controller to the
spacers because of the PCB stand-off. (These I already had, but are R.S. code 560-596.)

I needed a two-way, 10amp rated light switch to match my existing Switched Fuse Unit (SFU) that controls my
1kW immersion heating element and fitted them both in to a dual back box in the same place as the original SFU
back box for a convenient and neat appearance.

The only tools I needed to buy were a holesaw and arbor from Toolstation: 70368 & 54008 and a 14mm hole saw
from Screwfix: 9001P (as Toolstation don’t do that size).

I carefully decided where to mount the components bearing in mind future access requirements to them, i.e. the
programme buttons on the relay and the control knob on the power controller. I also measured the length of flex
required to easily reach the SFU and 2 way switch from this position.

Because of the space restrictions for my chosen position in the cupboard next to the consumer unit, I used a table
top to work on, to mount and wire up both of the main components first.

To mount the components into the enclosures, I used three 10mm spacers for the smart relay held with the 3mm
dome head screws. When they’re screwed to the PCB, I then inked the bottom of the spacers and pressed the
PCB down firmly in its mounting position to leave footprints for drilling the holes through the back of the enclosure
using a 3.5mm drill bit to allow for alignment. This is also the best time for drilling the entry holes for the cable
glands so as to not damage the PCB’s. I could have used an enclosure with ready-made knock out holes but I
wanted all my entry glands on one side.

Finally fixing the screws through the back of the enclosure into the PCB mounted spacers to hold the PCB
securely for wiring up. I used the countersunk flat head 3mm screws for this part to allow the enclosure to sit flush
against the bulkhead.

With the power controller mounting, it required removal of the heat shield to get to the PCB mounting hole
underneath; the heat shield has two screws and then two hooks attaching it to the face plate. I undid the grub
screw and removed the control knob and lock nut and then with two 20mm spacers fitted to the PCB, I reattached
the heat shield, lined up the controller and drilled the hole for the controller spindle thread through the enclosure
side wall. Once this is done I could ink the spacers and carefully re-align the PCB ready to drill the holes in the
back of the enclosure for the spacer fixings as before and then reattach the locking nut and knob though I had to
leave the washer off.

The actual terminals on my power controller were unclear (L & N) as they were not marked clearly and on
checking three different sites on eBay of the same controller, I found they were all different. Phil Brooke-Little
advised for safety to do a continuity test on the terminals, as the two that are commoned together would be the
neutral terminals. In the unit I bought the two middle terminals were commoned (Neutrals) and therefore the two
outer ones were the Live terminals.

The connections I made on the PCB’s after mounting in their enclosures were as follows:

1. A Live wire is connected at the Normally Open (NO) terminal on the smart relay (see diagram below) and
then connects to the Live AC input on the power controller. This is the wire that joins the two components
together and its length is determined on initial positioning of the components.

2. Another Live wire is connected to the middle terminal (Public - Load Power Supply) on the smart relay and
I left enough flex tail (about 2 metres) to reach the a.c. switches.

3. Live and Neutral wires were connected to the power controller Voltage Output terminals and also left with
2 metres of flex tail.

4. The d.c. supplies to the smart relay were made to the Voltage Detection terminals (left hand side) and
another d.c. 12v cable connects to the Working Power terminals, leaving enough cable to make the
connections. I understand that the Working Power voltage cannot be taken from the MPPT outlet and
must be kept separate; though in my case I’ve a 24v system so the 12v supply was tapped from
elsewhere anyway.

5. I used Wago 221’s to separately connect the unused Neutral wires and the Earth wires and tucked them
under the PCB’s in both components, hence the need for the female spacers used in the mounting
process.

6. Then I screwed the enclosures with fitted PCB’s into place and I mounted the smart relay enclosure on a
back-board simply for ease of access in a tight corner.

Making the a.c. and d.c. connections:

(Obviously first isolating the supply to the existing immersion switch.)

1. I disconnected the Live Load wire from the existing SFU and put it into a twin Wago 221.
2. A new Live wire is now connected to this now empty Live Load on the SFU and goes to the Common (C)
on the 2 way switch. (This is a single wire stripped out from the flex.)
3. I then connected another single Live wire from L2 of the 2 way switch back to the same Wago 221
connector that now has the original Live Load that I’d previously removed. This gives me the constant
 power supply to the immersion as before, should the generator or engine be in use, or even should
enough solar be available. (I have a lot of solar.)
4. The flex from the power controller (I named both flexes so as not to confuse them) has the Live wire
(previously connected) from the Live Voltage Output also connecting to L2 of the 2 way switch and the
Neutral wire from the Neutral Voltage Output connecting to the existing SFU Neutral Load.
5. The flex from the smart relay has the Live wire connected to L1 of the 2 way switch and the Neutral wire I
put into a Wago 221 on both ends rather than cut it. I also connected all Earth wires to Wago 221’s or
used the earth terminals on the switches where possible, including an earth fly lead to the 2 way switch
face plate. This kept my earth continuity for the whole circuit.
6. On the d.c. side of the smart relay, the cable from the Voltage Detection terminals (left hand side) will
connect to the MPPT outlet to the batteries (ensuring correct polarity).
7. Then I connected the other 12v cable from the Working Power terminals to my 12v supply, again ensuring
correct polarity.

When switched, L1 of the 2 way switch will now re-direct the Live Load in a loop to the smart relay, then to the
power controller and back to terminal L2 of the 2 way switch which goes to the immersion heater. I call this the
Variable Load; whereas L2 of the 2 way switch, when switched will be the Constant Load. The SFU will still be the
master switch and has a 10amp fuse fitted.

Once all is connected, liven up the circuit and the smart relay may be programmed, there are several good
YouTube videos explaining this (see links below), including working in conjunction with the power controller
(rheostat). I’ve set mine on P-3 (Voltage control the load on/off) to cut in at 27.8v and to cut out at 26.0v (falling)
which would be a large power draw (immersion) on the batteries where the solar cannot keep up.

Trial and error will determine the setting of the power controller which must be adjusted manually with close
regard to solar input and it may be necessary to tweak it up or down as solar conditions change. What I wish to
avoid is having the upper connect voltage and lower disconnect voltage too close together so that the relay will
start chattering under certain conditions.

I decide when to switch the system on and only when I’m happy with the battery SOC, which is when the battery
return amps significantly fall away (<10amp and falling for me) and there are plenty of amps spare from the solar.
To check this, I briefly turn the switch from Variable to Constant to see the maximum amount of amps being
produced at that moment in time and judge what amps are spare in relation to the battery charging requirements;
then set the power controller accordingly.
This charge rate monitoring has been discussed many times and here is a link to one 7 August 2018

As the solar dumping is a manual affair, the smart relay safeguards your batteries should you misjudge setting
the power controller knob or solar conditions change. The power controller will not ‘rob’ the battery charging rate
unless you are over-ambitious and you will notice your charging rate reduce. This enables the battery charging
and immersion heating to run in parallel, as the batteries will only take what they need and then you judge how
much power you have spare to heat the water; that's what the power controller does, but manually.

I have experimented with the power controller knob to match the solar output with battery charging on the BMS.
Whilst it is very responsive, I have found that by selecting a midpoint datum setting for the power controller knob,
it will balance control over quite a wide range of power without any reduction in the battery return amps.
Given that my 1kW immersion element will take up to around 40amps (24v), the controller will fluctuate with the
sun/cloud between 15 to 35amps at this midpoint setting whilst still leaving a positive charge to the battery
(though only just sometimes). This means that as the battery return amps continue to fall the amps available for
the immersion heating will increase.

The smart relay will safeguard the batteries by automatically disconnecting the immersion heating circuit should I
misjudge the solar input (or solar conditions change) on the power controller knob setting; it then reconnects on
battery voltage rising at 27.8v if the immersion heating is still switched on. The green LED light on the relay
indicates its on/off state, hence my choice of enclosure with a transparent lid.
I am confident now about setting the power controller knob position and leaving the boat for a few hours without
fear of draining the batteries, though I try not to be over optimistic about how much sunshine we’ll see.
I would also imagine that each individual solar array set-up will differ slightly regarding the adjustable position of
the power controller knob in relation to solar power available. Like anyone who has installed solar, I have become
fascinated with the BMS and watch the amps coming and going like a hawk and have learnt to understand the
sun’s capabilities and moderate my expectations accordingly.

The power controller will regulate the solar dump range from the maximum MPPT output available (or to the limit
of the heating element), down to zero power. Be aware though that the flex and heater terminals will still be live
when the power controller is turned down to ‘zero’. I now use this method to stop heating the water instead of
switching off the SFU, as constant switching wore out my SFU prematurely. It will not achieve much water heating
anyway if the current is much less than 25% of the maximum 1kW rating; though it may keep it warm.

Another good tip from Phil Brooke-Little is to use the relay and power controller to assist the engine coolant coil of
the calorifier to quickly boost the hot water when cruising. This ensures that the batteries are safeguarded when
mooring up, turning off the engine and forgetting all about the immersion heating. My solar will still supply what it
can to the inverter/immersion in conjunction with the alternator when cruising.

How Hot is My Water?

On the back of having regular hot water now, the curiosity side of me now wanted to know how hot and how
much? I could leave the immersion element heating until the thermostat cuts it out and the amps drop off but I
wanted to see a temperature figure. We do this at home for our grid tied solar dump to hot water to see if it’s hot
enough for a shower etc. and use two 240v a.c. sensors and gauges to see how much hot water is available.

So, I bought and fitted two 12/24v temperature panel gauges on eBay: [Panel Thermometer LED Display].
There are loads to choose from including different colour displays, dual sensors and a.c. or d.c. (Check postage
since Brexit.)
I have bought six of the TPM-900 model (a.c. and d.c.) over the years and have been satisfied with them.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Panel+Thermometer+LED+display+BIG+DIGITS+2m+NTC+sensor+i
ncl.+-30...110%C2%B0C+12V+24V&_id=192230899402&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658

The use of temperature sensors has been mentioned on this group before: 4 November 2017 I fitted mine to top
and bottom of the tank by using a 9mm drill bit held in my hand and carefully drilled into the foam lagging at an
acute angle to the tank until I felt the tank wall. I then cleaned out the hole and pushed in the probe and held it in
place with Armaflex pipe insulation lagging tape I already had. The sensor cables attached on mine were 3
metres each in length though advertised at 2 metres.

Even More Hot Water (Recirculation)

After using the temperature gauges for a while, I realised that because the calorifier is vertically standing and the
immersion element is fitted to the top pointing down, that the bottom of the calorifier never achieved anywhere
near the same temperature as the top. Even though I’m assured by SureCal that they are fitted with 27” heating
elements I wasn’t satisfied and thermosyphoning didn’t appear to be effective within a small tank over a short
time span. My calorifier is not big enough to hold its heat for long even with an additional lagging jacket and I was
feeling frustrated at all the wasted sunshine as the immersion thermostat would cut out with the bottom of the
calorifier being half the temperature of the top.

The answer for me was to fit a hot water recirculation pump, a bit expensive but it only uses a few watts to run
and is extremely quiet in operation. I turn it on at the wall socket (speed set at 5 or 6) when the top temperature is
nearly hot and there is still plenty of solar power to come; it has proved useful right away circulating the hot water
so that the bottom of the calorifier is always within 2°c of the top within an hour or so.

Below is the link for the pump (ECOCIRC PRO 15-1/65) website that I used:
https://www.whisperpumps.com/manufacturers/lowara-pumps/lowara-ecocirc-circulators/lowara-ecocirc-pro-
circulator-pumps & https://www.whisperpumps.com/media/productattach//e/c/ecocircpro-ed-en.pdf
 The following YouTube videos may prove useful in setting up (links subject to change).

Smart Relay Set-up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZRahrogJ_A (best video)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtc4UL2bEs4 & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoI6j_bd0BM

Power Controller Overview : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4PwYm_7HKg (For the technically minded,

but does show the heat shield removal.)

Installation Pictures Below

(The Smart Relay 12v Only)

Voltage Detection
(From Solar Controller)

From 2 Way Switch (Public)

To Power Controller (NO)

12v Only
LED Indicators
(Working Power Supply)

Alternative Relay for 24v System

From 2 Way Switch (C)

To Power Controller (NO)

Working Power
Supply Voltage Detection
6.0v ~ 30v D.C. (From Solar Controller)
0.0v ~ 60.0v D.C.
The Power Controller

Installation of Smart Relay on the left and the Power Controller right (lids removed)
With lids and showing Power Controller knob range

Mid Point Max

Min/Zero

Two-way switch (left) and main switched fused unit (right).

Variable Load

Constant Load
Calorifier temperature indicators

Temperature sensing probe to calorifier top plus a second sensor near the bottom of the tank
Installation of a Simple Recirculation Loop (Before lagging replacement)

Circulator pump speed control dial (green) remains accessible via a hinged flap when cupboard shut.
(Though once set, no further access normally required.)

Existing
cold feed
to TMV
Thermostatic
Mixing Valve
Additional
vent valve
(rad style)

Exchanged hot
outlet elbow Freestanding
for equal tee backing
board support

Pump isolator
ball valves

Circulator
pump
(recirc)

Calorifier drain
cock moved
from adjacent
compression
tee (cold inlet Double check Recirc loop
feed) valve drain cock
Appendix:
Pictorial Diagram of Phil Brooke-Little’s Solar Dump Arrangement (Earth wires omitted for clarity but should still be connected.)

MPPT Wago tucked into back

Controller From PV Array box behind switch

10amp 2-Way
Switched Fused Unit
Switch Plate

To Batteries

Calorifier

Mains a.c. wires:

2.5mm2

12v d.c. wires to From L1

relay: 0.75mm2

.
To Controller
Power Controller

Smart 240v Supply from

Relay To L2 Consumer Unit

To Neutral Load

12v working
supply
Neutral wires not required in flex,
joining relay to controller & switch