Beth Crowley

FBBM
Table of Contents:
Introduction

Pestel Analysis

The market

Consumer & Lifestyle Trends

Consumer Profiles

Gap in the market

Product Category

Raw Material Identification

Sustainability Rationale

Sourcing Proposal

Group Work Reflection

Bibliography

Image Referencing
Estrenar’s mission is to focus on
creating an empowering range of
sustainable, luxury denim pieces;
elevating the luxury fashion
landscape to be a body-positive,
inclusive place. The brand is
in a war against the toxic ‘one-
size fits all’ mentality that the
industry currently has.

In this report you will gain

a deeper understanding and
comprehension of what Estrenar
is all about as well as how the
brand will attempt to tackle and
resolve these problematic parts of
today’s society and the industry.
Pestel
Analysis
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Sophia Robens
The Market
According to Statista, revenue in the luxury fashion segment
amounts to US$108,396m in 2021. The market is expected to
grow annually by 5.21% (CAGR 2021-2025).

In 2021, the womenswear market has witnessed a significant shift

in consumer demands; it is now more obvious than ever that female
consumers have strong requirements for brands and retailers when it
comes to the subjects of inclusivity and diversity. Driving factors for these
demands include the increase of social media campaigns for body positivity,
as well as the rise of the black lives matter movement. Recently, female
shoppers are starting to pull up brands and retailers whom are failing to
ensure positive systemic change towards these matters.

Younger generations have also spotlighted the importance of sustainability

in fashion, both millenials and Gen-z consumers are the generations
propelling this ever-increasing demand, calling for brands/retailers to better
adapt and acomodate for the environment, implementing more sustainable
systems, without greenwashing - they desire complete transparency and
genuine efforts. Developing sustainable brand infrustructure is crucial for
businesses to encourage consumer engagement amongst this continuously
growing ‘woke’ hub of consumers.

Brands/retailers that are responding to the demand of inclusivity, diversity

and sustainability are the ones seeing steep inclines in sales across the
fashion landscape.
 Agree that setting diversity

34%
targets in the workplace is
what makes a fashion brand/
Of Young Millenial female retailer inclusive.
clothes shoppers
Base: 924 female internet users aged 16+ who have bought clothing for themselves in
the last 12 months / Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

A quarter of female clothes shoppers recognise a brand/

retailer as inclusive if they set diversity targets in the
workplace. Engaging with this idea is young millenial

26%
female clothes shoppers.

Of all Female clothes

shoppers

It is evident that consumers

strongly desire products that
have less negative impact on
the environment, so much so
- they’re willing to pay more
capital in order to get what
they want. Sustainability is a
critical necessity for Millenials
and Gen-Z; potentially due
to the technological side to
thinges for these generations
-Twitter and Instagram are
popularised platforms where
knowledge is shared regarding
staple issues such as the
climate crisis leading to more
‘woke’ cohorts. Consequently,
this can be reflected in the
incline of consumer demands
for sustainability.

Business Of Fashion: The Sustainability Gap Report 2021

Denim Market
Offsetting a sweatpants-fuelled 2020 and
combined with its global market value
expected to reach $26 bn by 2026, denim
is back and bigger than ever. (Edited)

Statista: 2021
This statistic represents the value of the global denim fabric
market from 2020 to 2026. By 2026 the value is set to reach $26
bn - a staggering figure which demonstrates how significant a role
denim plays in the fashion industry.
Outerwear DSquared2

Luxury Denim
Outerwear Philipp Plein

Key Players:
Here are the top luxury denim Diesel
outerwear brands in the current
market.
Saint Laurent

Balenciaga

Leading Regions Edited: 2021

for Luxury Denim

Outerwear: HK 5.3%

The top leading regions for US 4.6%

luxury denim outerwear sales
consist of Hong Kong, United UK 4.6%
States and United Kingdom.
JP 4.2%

MO 4.0%

Edited: 2021
 .5
94

.9
80

.9
74

2012 2016 2021

Retail sales of the jacket and coats market worldwide from 2012 to
2021(in billion U.S. dollars) (Statista, 2021)

The graph demonstrates

that the value of the
As stated by Statista - ‘the
luxury jackets/coats is
global jacket and coat market
continuously increasing at
was forecast to generate around
a rapid pace.
94.5 billion U.S. dollars in retail
sales by 2021, up from around
81 billion U.S. dollars in 2016.
Jackets and coats are a segment
within the overall apparel
market. As the global apparel
market grows, it is unsurprising
that sales of coats and jackets
will also rise.’
Consumer
& Lifestyle
Trends
Consumers &
Lifestyle
Consumer lifestyle trends continue to adapt, with the
COVID-19 crisis, shopping habits saw a vast shift with
consumers becoming even more cautious with their
purchasing. Consumers are making active decisions to be
more concious with their shopping habits; they’re beginning
to ensure that the brands that they shop with are transparant
and initiating greener strategies - this comes with an increased
awarness surrounding climate change.

Circular brands/retailers have seen growth in prevailance

amongst consumers, with repair shops being at the forefront of
the circular strategies for brands/retailers.

As well as this, size-inclusivity is constantly gaining

momentum in fashion with the rise of the body-positivity
movement, consumers are looking to brands/retailers to better
cater for plus size shoppers.
Retailers have been making strides to prioritize recycled,
responsible and regenerated denim. Market-wide, 39%
of denim assortments have had a sustainable transfor-
mation, up from 16% in 2019. However, following recent
warnings from the United Nations climate report, envi-
ronmental efforts need to be urgently ramped up across
all fashion industry sectors to curb emissions.
Consumer Trends
Circularity

It is evident that the

worldwide google search
interest in the circular
economy has increased in
2021, demonstrating the
peaked attentiveness from
consumers surrounding the
topic of the circular economy.

(WGSN, 2021)

(Mintel, 2021)
The data displayed indicates that 44% of female participants view fashion as
more sustainable if it is made using recycled waste, closely followed by if it
is of good quality. Brands are slowly starting to respond to this demand from
consumers - involving the circular economy more in their goals and strategies as
well as producing garments that are high quality - produced for longevity.
Ethical Lifestyles
Attidudes towards globalisation - % agree -
Consumers are holding expectations for global businesses to make their supply chains greener.
They are beginning to understand the impact of their buying decisions and will favour brands
that have managed to reduce their carbon footprint.

(Mintel, 2021)

Proportion of consumers who say they prioritise the environment more since the start
of the COVID-19 outbreak -

It is apparent that for around a (Mintel, 2021)

quarter of adults, the Covid-19
pandemic has only increased
the level of priority for the
environment - meaning that for
many consumers a dedication to
environmental issues will be a
crucial purchasing factor. This
works well for brands that are
willing to accomodate for this
demand.
Size Inclusivity
‘Consumers' perceptions of beauty are changing with
many seeking to challenge and cast off traditional
beauty standards in favour of more diverse and
inclusive beauty concepts. Consumers are adopting
an approach of self-acceptance and confidence, and
are calling for brands to represent and cater to people
who previously were not included in rigid ideals of
beauty, due to body size, age or disability. Brands
are increasingly making their ranges more inclusive,
covering a wider range of sizes, body shapes and skin
tones.’ (More Plus Size, Mintel Report, Nov 2021)

It is key for brands to adapt and attune to these consumer desires for
size inclusivity in order to appeal and remain relevant to consumers in
today’s society.

(Edited, 2021).

Investment has outpaced 2019

‘While Covid skewed traditional delivery cadences, product drops have returned to
pre-pandemic levels, with investment in some categories higher than ever. Plus-size
ranges are one area that’s been recognized with core retailers growing own-brand
collections 2% in the US and 32% in the UK vs. two years prior.’ (Edited, 2021).
LSN Tribes
REGENIZENS

This community of
Millennial consumers are
increasingly frustrated by
inaction on climate change.
They are taking active
and consistent steps to
change their consumption
behaviour, as well as the
brands they buy from.
(LSN Global, 2021)

NEW LUXURY MILLENNIALS

The NLMs will define the next wave of

luxury spending, according to George
Scribner, senior vice-president for
people planning at advertising firm
Digitas. They are much more likely to
have made a luxury purchase in the
past year than older luxury consumers.
According to a recent study by market
research agency Luxury Institute,
83% of Generation Y, defined as born
between the early 1980s and early
2000s, have bought a luxury product,
as opposed to 66% of those older than
35. Understanding them, then, is key
for luxury brands.
(LSN Global, 2011)
Sophia Robens
Interview with Mid/Plus Size
Influencer Olivia Cox
Olivia is an Instagram and Youtube influencer/blogger who provides her
audience with daily mid/plus-size fashion inspiration. She has acquired
20,000 followers on her Instagram and has collaborated with well-known
brands such as ASOS and Pretty Little Thing; she is a successful advocate
for inclusivity within the fashion industry and as a mid/plus-size consumer
herself it was great for us to have the opportunity to interview her for our
own project research and gain an insight into what mid/plus-size consumers
desire when it comes to fashion brands, more specifically, what lacks in the
world of denim for UK14+ sizes.
 Interview:
- What Type of Denim Products do You Usually Buy?
“I usually tend to buy jeans, denim jackets and denim shirts.”

- What do You Think is Lacking in The Denim Industry?

“Definitely the sizing, I’m always trying and testing new brands to see how the sizing is different and
its shocking how different the sizes are. I tend to buy jeans which are W/L since I believe its easier to
gage what the sizing is like.”

- As a mid-size consumer do you find it a challenge to purchase denim or products

in general? Do brands accommodate well enough?
“I find it such a challenge, some brands are really size inclusive which are the brands that I usually
stick to but I always want to try and test out new brands to see what works/what doesn’t work. I wish
brands would be more truthful about their sizing, there’s no harm in saying they don’t want to cater
to bigger people as there’s other stores which are midsize/plus size friendly, so Id rather support them
and shop there instead of places who pretend to cater to bigger people as there’s other stores which are
midsize/plus size friendly, so Id rather support them and shop there instead of places who pretend to
cater towards us!”

- What Would You Like to See More of in Denim Jackets?

“Id love to see more patterns, I feel like bigger denim jackets are all plain and boring, whereas I’m into
graphic items, so that would be really cool! Or even ripped would be so good!”

- What Could Brands do to be More Empowering to Mid/plus-size Women?

“Definitely include real life mid/plus size people, I feel like brands will get a small size 14 and call her
plus size, which makes us bigger girls feel rubbish and we compare ourselves to these models! I think
brands are definitely doing a lot better but it could still be 10X better.”

- Which Brands do You Feel do Mid/plus-size Well?

“I shop at places such as PLT, Boohoo, Missguided, Simplybe, ASOS.”

This was an insightful interview for our consumer-based research, it helped us to better
understand the needs of a plus-size consumer and going forward is able to inform
our direction for the brand - accomodating as best we can to the desires for plus-size
women.
Consumer
Profiles
Estrenar
CONSUMER PROFILE

Age: 23-27
Occupation: Self-employed/ Creative
Location: Zone 2 City
Socio-Economic: A/B
Salary: £30,000+

Kersharn Johnson
Who are they?
Young influencer/creative who seizes
every opportunity. They have a friendly
demeanour, are politically aware, and
enjoy socialising and partying. Because
of their fashion sense, they are known as
trendsetters.

Shopping habit
Shopping frequently enjoys discovering
new designers and stores and is willing to
spend extra money on what makes them
look and feel good.

Hobbies
She enjoys creating social media content,
attending fashion events, shopping in
high-end stores and watching romcoms
with her friends.

Kersharn Johnson
Estrenar
CONSUMER PROFILE

Age: 28-32
Occupation: job...
Location: Zone 2 City
Socio-Economic: A/B
Salary: £40,000+

Kersharn Johnson
Who are they?
She is a free-spirited, independent woman
who enjoys being expressive with her
style. She lives a zero-waste lifestyle with
a strong activist persona who is interested
in sustainability.

Hobbies
She runs a book club, attends high-profile
fashion events, and participates in workout
programmes such as yoga and pilates.

Shopping habits
Desires for higher quality products and
willingness to spend a premium price for
investment pieces. Demands for strong
brand craftsmanship and knows
what she wants.

Kersharn Johnson
Psychographic Profile

Estrenar see ourselves as innovators as we percieve our consumers to be someone

who purchases unique items of clothing that will allow them to be indivual and
stand out from other consumers.
We see Estrenar consumers as trend setters who like to push limits on fashion and
want to start investing in more sustainable items.
Estrenar is placed towards Early adapters section as our consumers are passionate
about following
fashion and are aware of the new trends however still are experimental and want
to start being a trend setter.
Our consumers are plus size 16-24 uk and are trying to find luxury sustainable
garments to add to their wardrobe.

Sophia Robens
Limited Waste
An estimated 92 million tons of textile
waste is created annually from the
fashion industry. - fashion revolution

Zero waste fashion is about utilizing

existing materials to their full capacity and
not producing textile or other material
waste. We are working on being a Zero-
waste brand in the future however, we
believe we should be transparent and real
to our consumers and only name ourselves
as a Zero-waste brand when we have been
about to achieve it.
Limited waste is what we are focusing on.
Our lay plans will be strategically placed
to ensure the denim is placed in the most
efficient way. We will use scraps to create
tags and other elements of packaging.
Looking at our primary and secondary
research, waste in fashion is becoming a
big issue in the world, environemtally.
At Estrenar we believe going forward in
the industry is being a zero-waste brand.

Sophia Robens
 A Gap In
The Market
...
The Gap
Reflecting on our market research, it is evident that
there is a gap in the market for luxury plus-size
womenswear.

‘The size-inclusive market is an area where

sustainability in denim is lagging. Only 9% of plus-
size denim currently available use alternatives to
conventional cotton and 3% of styles are described
as "recycled.”’ (Edited).

From our research we recognise that the fashion

industry needs to better accommodate for female plus-
size consumers as well as for the environment - we aim
to combat the lack of both factors through our brand
concept.
 What makes a fashion brand/retailer inclusive, January 2021
“Which of the following do you think indicates that a fashion brand/retailer is inclusive?
Please select all that apply.”

Base: 924 female internet users aged 16+ who have bought clothing for themselves in the last 12
months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
Mintel (2021)

This graph from Mintel shows that the majority of female participants view
a brand/retailer as inclusive if they stock a wide range of sizes. This further
emphasises the importance of as a brand, always remaining in inslusive of sizes.

Perhaps one of the best examples of where the fashion industry is headed as a whole comes by
way of Universal Standard’s collection of luxe basics for women. Known as the most inclusive
label in the world, founder Alexandra Waldman aims to bring all women together, with an exten-
sive size range of 00 to 40. Universal Standard’s most popular items are denim, which proves the
point that style and quality basics are needed in expanded size offerings. (Fashion United, 2021).
Key Competitors

These are currently the top 5

brands selling denim. Saint Laurent,
Gabriela Hearst, Mara Hoffman and
Stella McCartney are in the luxury
sector which is the sector Estrena is
being placed in. Levi’s has also been
chosen as one of our comeptitors
as even if it is seen as more of a
premium brand, Levi’s is the top
denim brand which cater to plus
size garments therefore puting us in
competition.
We will be comparing prices, styles
and sizes with these 5 brands and
seeing where we stand.
Price-Style Matrix

We have placed Estrenar on

the graph closer to the high
price point due to
being a luxury brand, as well
as between the classic and
fashion forward points as
we’re combining both classic
and fashion forward styles.
Our competitors would be
Gabriela Hearst and Stella
McCartney in terms of price
and style; however, we will not
be in direct competition with
these brands as they don’t
supply plus-size sizes.
Plus-size/ Standard-size matrix

This size matrix demonstrates that out of our competitors Estrenar is the only luxury
brand that provides plus- size sizing. Levi’s also supply plus-size sizes however, they
are in the premium market. This is what sets us apart from our competitors - Estrenar
is a luxury brand that accommodates to the plus-size market. Mara Hoffman would be
our closest competitor however looking at the sizes, they only go up to size 18 therefore
aren’t as accomodating as what we will be.
Key Competitors - Plus Size

These are the top brands either solely

selling plus size garments or have a wide
range of plus size clothing. The Hour
and 11 Honore are the top brands that
sell solely plus size sizes, however their
pieces are quite classic with a few pieces
that are more high fashion.
Erdem, Coyan, Kai and Veronica Beard
sell all sizes, however looking at their
plus size collections they only have
limited pieces which are all quite simple
in comparison to the garments being
sold to smaller sizes.
We believe Estrenar fits into the gap in
the market of luxury outerwear plus size
brand as our collections have a range of
high fashion and casual pieces to target
different consumers wants.

Sophia Robens
Key Competitors - Plus Size-
Price Style Matrix

The plus-size competitors are found mostly in the classic section with The Hour being
the simplest styles with
a high price of £650 and lowest of £100. Coyan has a specific plus-size collection with
only 6 styles available, all being dresses and simple designs, the price range is £890 to
£1150. These brands haven’t taken much inatitive towards sustainabilty.
Overall, most of the styles for these brands are quite basic with high price points,
Estrenar focusing on denim luxury outerwear will allow us to stand out of the
competition as none of these brand focus solely on outerwear luxury sustainable
garments.

Sophia Robens
Product Category
The supporting garment is an
asymetrical skirt.
With the same smoking texture
on the front side and and over-
lapping denim fabric in from,
with a button

The following product CAD features the final jacket and

skirt.
The jacket will be constructed using natural idnigo dyed
fabric sourced from Arvind limited and will have no lining.
It will also have reusable srew buttons. Overall jacket is
designed from kinetic architecure inspiration
The body has an asymetric desgin with smocking on the
fabric on either side creating texture without having to add
a different material or dye. Dramatic sleeves have two layers
of denim creating arch shaped sleeves with buttons along
the side.

Sophia Robens
Primary Fabric

For our collection we have decided

to use the spun elastane(cott/ poly/
hemo) fabric in two different colours.
The fabric is made up of 79% Cotton,
12% Polyester, 7% Hemp and 2%
Elastane.
Sustainable Sourcing: Sourcing
sustainable cotton and reducing the
negative impact of cotton farming is
crucial to our operations. During the
period, we started a new sustainable
farming method, Regenerative Organic
Farming, which is a more holistic way
of en- compassing organic practices.
Being part of the Better Cotton
Initiatives is a global non profit
organisation that aims to transform
cotton production worldwide
by developing better cotton as a
sustainable mainstream commod- ity
that makes the production better for
the people who produce it and better
for the environement.
With only 12% of the fabric being
polyester we would like to further
experiment and acheive a fabric
which will be fully sustainable in the
future for our customers, allowing the
brand to be as ethically sustainable as
possible.

Sophia Robens
Raw Material Identification

Cotton

We want to make sure the cotton being used

to produce our garments are both of high
quality and are organic and sourced ethically
and sustainably. With the new sustainable
farming method, Regenerative Organic
Farming, which is a more holistic way of
encompassing organic practices, animal
welfare and social fairness.
Our responsible supply chain mechanism is
sourcing sustainable cotton from the farms
to produce fabric. Around 26% of our cotten
is sustaiabe and we are scaling this up now.
We strive to become a fully sustainble brand.

Sophia Robens
Hemp

Hemp fabric is a type of textile

that is made using fibers from the
stalks of the Cannabis sativa plant.
This plant has been recognized as a
source of extraordinarily tensile and
durable textile fibers for millennia,
but the psychoactive qualities of
Cannabis sativa have recently made
it harder for farmers to produce this
immensely beneficial crop.

Elastane

This textile is composed of a long chain

polymer known as polyurethane, and
it is known in technical circles as a
polyether-polyurea copolymer. Elastane
is an entirely synthetic fabric; no organic
materials are used to make this substance,
and it does not exist anywhere in nature.
We would like to find alternatives which
will be more sustianble than elastane.

Polyester

Polyester is made of long-chain polymers that

are the result of a chemical reaction involving
coal, petroleum, air, and water. It is made up
of purified terephthalic acid (PTS), or in some
cases, dimethyl ester dimethyl terephthalate
(DMT) and monotheluene glycol (MEG).
For future manufacturing we want to have a
completely sustaiable denim fabric therefore
finding substitute for polyester.

Sophia Robens
Eco-friendly mailing boxes by Progress Packaging

In terms of packaging, Estrenar will use Kraft

mailing bags couretsy of Progress Packag-
ing; the sustainable and luxury aspects of the
packaging is fitting to the brands values
.
‘These high quality, double-layered E/B flute corrugated
board boxes have kraft outer and inner layers, allowing
for a high-quality print on the surface. We included a
security zip tear to reduce package tampering, as well as
an adhesive strip to the edges. Flexo-printed one colour
to our custom design, it is fully recyclable with 70% recy-
cled content, as well as being FSC approved..’ (Progress
Packaging).

By being able to recycle and reusing the package

this will not create any pollution.

Sophia Robens
Post-Consumer Care

W ASHING
In order to allow the customer to enjoy our products as long as possible, we aim to give
clear care instructions for every garment (care lables will be laser printed on the gar-
ments). We will encourage our customers to wash less. We will advice to wash in low
temperatures when needed, use eco-friendly washing detergents to keep the garments
clean without harming the planet and not use a electrical dryer.
REP AIRING
We offer free repair services or touch ups when the jacket is in need of a little TLC.
REC YCLING
As our denim fabric is still not 100% sustainable with the polyester and elastane fibres we
still want to create a full circular economy until we are able to be fully sustainble.
We will have a leasing service where customers can bring back their garments they no
longer want or need to either be bought back by us at a certain price and go on our leasing
rail or allow the customer to swap their jacket with another one on the ‘leasing’ rail. This
allows the jacket to have a longer life and be enjoyed by more customers.

Sophia Robens
Post-Consumer Care

As Estrenar wants to ensure sustainabiltiy

throughout production, we feel it is as important
to make sure our post consumer care matches our
values. By gifting a bottle of eco-friendly deterfent
from The Lab co. with every purchase. This will
ensure not only that the garment is being washed
with the best however it also allows no chemicals
to be in contact with the denim and with the water
which ends up polluting our oceans
Consumers will also be able to purchase the
detergents in store or get subcription.
Benefits
• Concentrated/ up to 32 washes
• Plant based
• ZERO harsh chemicals or toxins
• Preserves fabric
• An alternative to dry cleaning
• Cruelty free

Sophia Robens
Post-Consumer Care

Sophia Robens
Sustainability
Rationale
Sustainability
Rationale
Today fashion is now the second most polluting
industry in today’s Global Economy, therefore, the
industry is in real need of change. A renewal of
the fashion landscape: Estrenar. One of the brands
priorities is to enter into consideration and recognise
the vicious consequences that the current fashion
industry has on the environment. Estrenar promotes
strength and positive change, not solely through
empowering its female plus-size target market - it
also spotlights the combatting of waste and plans
to implement sustainable strategies to enable a
better fashion industry, more suitable for the planet.
Committed to tactful design and considerate creation,
Estrenar employs the manufacturing methodology of
limited waste, always communicating transparently
to consumers about how much waste each garment
produces - the waste generated from the creation of
a piece will then go on to be incorporated into future
Estrenar products; consequently reducing waste,
ensuring that it is as limited as possible and more
efficient for the environment.
Sustainability

We aim to use entirely sustainable materials for

our denim collection. All processes from dyeing to
finishing will be sustainable. The utilisation of natural
denim dyeing processes will ensure that no toxic
chemicals are polluting water systems. We will also
be tackling the concept of zero-waste, ensuring that
all scraps are used up during production.
UN Sustainable
Goal

Estrenar will focus on aligning with the UN Goal: Responsible

Consumption and Production. We believe this goal to be the
most relevant to our brand concept as our aim is to produce for
longevity in a considerate way.
Circular Details
We aim to implement the circular strategies of ‘Product
Life Extension’ and ‘Smart material choices’. By providing
a product repair service for customers - we are able to
extend the life of our products. As well as this, using
recycled materials as buttons on our garments takes into
consideration products end of life treatment .
Composition
Fabric made from
79% Cotton, 12% Polyester, 7% Hemp and 2% Elastane
Responsible manufacturing
Traceability, sustainable indigo foam dying,
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) compliant, renewable ernergy, water use
management- recycled water, supply-chain enagement and transparancy,
sustainable sourcing, reduced energy consumption and reduced greenhouse
gases emissions and air pollution initiatives
Packaging
We have opted for Kraft Mailing bags courtesy of Progress Packaging for our
product packaging. The packaging meets our luxury standards. Produced using
paper from sustainable forests. Packaging is compostable which contributes to
our sustainble goals.

Sophia Robens
Consumer
Providing customers with complimentary
sustainable detergent along with their
purchase to ensure post customer care
is continuing to be sustainble and eco-
friendly.

Repair Services
We offer free repairs for all of our
customers, ensuring our garments’ are
kept going for life and can be passed
down through generations.

Leasing System
With the concept of circular economy,
we aim to implement a leasing system
where customers are able to bring their
pre-loved Estrenar garments for other
customers to have the opportunity to
wear an Estrenar garment at a lower
cost starting at £100 depending on
the garment and duration of the rental
period.

Sophia Robens
Third-Party Certifications and Measurables

Enable brands and retailers in the textile, apparel,

and footwear industries to implement sustainable
chemical management best practice across the value
chain. Through collaborative engagement, standard
setting, and implementation, we will advance
towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a global not-for-

profit, is the world's largest cotton sustainability
programme.
BCI aims to transform cotton production
worldwide, by addressing the negative impacts of
cotton growing and processing.

The Global Reporting Initiative is an international

independ- ent standards organization that helps
businesses, governments and other organizations
understand and communicate their impacts on
issues.

The 2030 Water Resources Group (2030 WRG) is

a public, private, civil society partnership hosted by
the World Bank Group. The partnership supports
country-level collaboration designed to unite diverse
groups with a common interest in the sustainable
manage- ment of water resources.

Sophia Robens
How Estrenar will communicate this to
customers

Our certifications will be displayed on our website under the sustainability section.
We have briefly explained the benefits of each certification to our customers.
We believe this allows us to be be transparent as we are providing a direct link
between us and the organisations we work with.
There will also be a QR Code printed on every package sent to our customers.
We have provided this QR Code to send our customers to our sustainability page
allowing them easy access to the information we have communicated.

Sophia Robens
 Title page sourcing proposal

Sourcing Proposal
l
Rationale for Sourcing Decision
At Estrenar one of our main focal points is producing high
quality, luxury denim pieces that are created for longevity. This
links to the fact that we are working in alignment of the 12th UN
Sustainable Goal of sustainable consumption and production.
Accordingly, we have examined the suitable mill options to make
our garments.

As a result of our research, we came to the conclusion that Arvind

was a fitting choice for our brand to work with. This is due to
Arvind’s well-recognised reputation when it comes to producing
high-quality materials in a developing sustainable manner. As
well as this, Arvind also offer manufacturing services at their site;
by choosing them as our manufacturer as well as fabric producer
we are able to drastically reduce our environmental impact -
limiting our carbon foot print.

In terms of our buttons, we have sourced some sustainable

‘screw-off ’ buttons, courtesy of Flying Horse - this a clever design
aspect that enables customers to change their buttons if they’re
becoming too worn - extending the life of the garment or it could
help with deconstructing the garment in the future for re-use of
the denim fabric.

For our thread we secured a sponsorship with Coats - high-

quality thread that suits our ethos of luxury well.

As for our transportation method - we have opted for DHL’s

‘Go Green’ ocean freight; by being more considerate of carbon
footprint we align with our brand values of sustainability. Along
with this, DHL have a valid reputation for providing smooth,
reliable delivery service for customers.
Country of Origin & Transport
Analysis
Fabric Mill - Arvind Ltd
Our denim fabric is produced by Arvind; the ideal supplier
for Estrenar as we’re a luxury brand who likewise Arvind
thrives on becoming more sustainable all of the time.

Benefits of Production in India

• Raw material control - reputation of certifying
the raw materials they recieve are how they
should be.
• Labor resources - India has lots of engineers and
solid equipment.
• Many workers are billingual - India has the
second largest English speaking population in
the world - this makes communication a lot
more straight forward and smooth-running.
• India is very up and coming - developing
at a rapid pace, gaining attention on the
manufacturing landscape.
• Factories in India tend to be family-owned and
family-run. These are typically regarded as more
flexible, reasonable and trustworthy.
• Care and Transparancy.
(East West, 2020).

Trims and Thread Country of Origin

Our buttons provided from Flying Horse will be directly
shipped to India. As for our thread, Coats is based in
England, transportation may take slightly longer; however,
for the luxury finish that Coats’ thread offers - we as a
brand view it as worth it.
Transportation Method - DHL
According to DHL ‘Ocean Freight (OFR) shipping is considered
one of the most carbon and cost-efficient transportation modes
available today.’ Here at Estrenar, we have made the decision to
select the transport method of ocean freight shipping. This is the
most environmentally friendly option of transportation - as well as
cost-efficient which is beneficial for us. Although, it will be more
time consuming, we want to ensure that we’re doing everything in
our power to limit our impact on the environment.

Consequently, we have chosen DHL Express as they have a ‘carbon

neutral shipping’ system, this appeals to us as the company are
adjusting to be more sustainable like us.

As of January 2021, DHL neutralized the carbon emissions of all

shipments through the use of maritime biofuels. This demonstrates
the companies dedication to ‘clean operations’, better accomodating
for the environment.

(DHL, 2021)
Garment Factory Identification
& Finishing Analysis
Garment Factory- Arvind Ltd

Arvind Limited is among the top suppliers of fabric world

wide. Headquarters based in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, Arvind
has an annual production capacity of more than 100 million
metres in denim and 140 million metres in woven fabric;
they supply many leading brands in both India and across
the globe. (Arvind).

Arvind have implemented several strategies and initiatives

in order to establish themsevles as a sustainable mill/
manufacturing option, dyeing methodology such as ‘indigo
foam dyeing’of which uses 90% less water in comparison to
convential dyeing technologies is a contributing approach to
Arvind’s sustainable systems.

Arvind also utilise the concept of water efficiency along with

recycling. They have constructed a recycling facility at their
denim mill with capacity of 8 million litres of water per day;
they manage to use 65% of recycled water and as little
as 35% of water from fresh water sources. As well as this,
Arvind are combatting the Green House Gas predicament,
by significantly reducing their contribution through
switiching from coal to renewable biomass to the extent of
40% in their textile mills.
Finishing Analysis

For our garments we made the decision

not to use any finishing on the denim,
they will be finished with grey top
stitching in order create effective
contrasted details. For future collections
we may consider opting for Jeanalogia
to create innovative, sustainable finishes
on our denim.

For the chosen garment to produce,

we felt that the denim wash was most
aesthetically pleasing as it already
was - in the dark indigo shade and
consequently, didn’t need to be (Mia Crawford, 2021)
tampered with any finishing faded
washes or anything like that.

(Saman Sajid, 2021)

Samples here display the effective

detail techniques used in the making
process, effectively adding texture to
the garment induces the luxury sense
that we have set out to achieve for our
customers.

(Saman Sajid, 2021)

Trims and Labels Identification
& Analysis

Screw-on Buttons
In regard to our buttons, we have gone
for Flying Horse’s ‘screw-off buttons’;
we were attracted to this supplier due
to their positive reputation, the buttons
themselves also had very promising
reviews - which they lived up to.

The buttons also look very visually

appealing on our garment, excentuating
the luxury effect.

Besides this, the buttons suited our

circular design concept very well. This is
since the buttons are able to be replaced
with ease if necessary - longevity
reasons. Along with, easily enabling the
recycling of the denim fabric process
further down the line.

Sophia Robens
Swing Tags

Experimented with the different

sides of the denim and the
differnt colours of logo. We
decided to do with the dark
blue tag with the light logo
which will be done by laser.

Using leftover denim from production, we will

create our swing tags and laser our brand logo
on the denim, ensuring our sustainability focus
of limited waste and our UN goal of responsible
consumption and production.

Sophia Robens
Care Label
Group Work Reflection
Reflecting on the group work; the denim project has been an
intense, fast-paced journey, it has taught me a lot about working
collaboratively in a team - the value of skills in both patience
and communication.

In my opinion, our group worked very well together; the

majority of team members travelled into the uni building on a
daily basis to ensure smooth-running communication and for
ease of keeping up to date with eachothers progress. It also
enabled us to easily communicate opinions on various decision-
making situations in a professional meeting style manner. I
definitely found it very interesting gaining a perspective of what
it’s like to work along-side designers in a live industry project, I
found it inspiring to see how they work and how valuable both
the FBBM and Fashion roles are - fundamental to building a
brand. I feel that there was a mutual respect amongst our group
members for each-others roles in the building of our brand
Estrenar.

I have found this project to be very rewarding - learning lots

about denim and generally building a brand. It has been an
extreme challenge to balance general life alongside the many
projects that we have; however, it has certainly been rewarding
and something that I won’t forget. I have found it a great
opportunity and have thoroughly enjoyed working with the
designers as well as my FBBM friends.
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Estrenar