Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and

eyelashes

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Health and safety

• Hygiene promotes good practice and cleanliness to clients and helps to create a
good impression and make a successful salon.
• Important reason is that maintaining good standards of hygiene will help avoid
cross-infection

The main practices for good hygiene are:

● sterilisation of tools and equipment
● washing of hands at the start and finish of a treatment
● disposal of waste products in the correct bin
● clean and tidy presentation.

These are the key ingredients for a professional beauty therapist

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Contra-indications to eye treatments

As with any beauty treatment, you need to know about the contra-indications that will prevent or
restrict your treatment.

● Conjunctivitis
● Stye
● Blepharitis
● Viral infections – e.g. a cold
● Bruising
● Hypersensitivity
● Eczema or psoriasis
● Hay fever
● Watery eyes
● Recent operation
● Contact dermatitis

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Measuring the eyebrows

To create a suitable eyebrow shape for your client you need to measure the length of the
eyebrows, and the highest arch point. This will ensure that the shape fully complements
your client’s natural features.

The tools you need to measure the brows are:

● an orange stick
● an eyebrow brush.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Measuring the eyebrows

Step 1
Line up the orange stick with the corner of the mouth and the edge
of the nose. The beginning of the eyebrow should be where the
orange stick rests on the skin. (If your client has close-set eyes you
can start the brow slightly further out to give a widening illusion).

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Measuring the eyebrows

Step 2
Line up the orange stick with the edge of the mouth and the outer
corner of the eye. The end of the eyebrow should be where the
orange stick rests on the skin.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Measuring the eyebrows

Step 3
The arch of the eyebrow should match the middle of the pupil. This
is your shape guideline. Any stray hairs outside the shape can be
plucked out.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Eyebrow shape

● You can adjust the shape of the brow according to your client’s face shape,
but the measurements are always required to ensure that the starting and
finishing points are correct for your client’s facial features.

● Remember that the eyebrows are sisters, not twins. Do not try to get them
exactly the same ‒ follow the measuring rule and your client will be pleased
with the results.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Eyebrow shaping
Step 1
Placing hot cotton wool pads on the brow opens the pores.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Eyebrow shaping
Step 2
Stretching skin and tweezing near to the root will minimise discomfort.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Eyebrow shaping
Step 3
The finished look should be clean and tidy and opens up the whole face.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Patch test
Step 1
Cleanse the area of the skin to be tested (behind the area or the crook of
the arm).

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Patch test
Step 2
Mix the same make and colour of tint to be used with manufacturer’s
recommended quantity of 10 per cent volume peroxide. Apply the tint
to the area selected with a brush, about the size of a ten pence coin.
Allow to dry.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Patch test

● Make sure the client is aware that the tint should be left on the skin for 24
hours. If no reaction occurs, they can wash it off.

● If a reaction occurs (itching, red, inflamed area), the tint should be

removed immediately with water and a soothing lotion should be applied
to the area.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Eyelash tint
Step 1
After applying shields under the eyes, begin to apply tint to lower lashes,
made up to manufacturer’s instructions. Ask the client to close her eyes,
and apply tint to the top lashes. Cover the eyes.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Eyelash tint
Step 2
While the lash tint is developing, you can tint the eyebrows if required.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Eyelash tint
Step 3
When the processing time has elapsed, remove all traces of the tint.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Eyelash tint
Step 4
The finished eyelash tint defines the lashes and enhances the eyes.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Applying individual eyelashes

Step 1
Cleanse the eye with oil-free cleanser. Select an eyelash - choose
a colour and length of lash that is close to the client’s lashes for a
natural look. Using tweezers, dip the root into adhesive.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Applying individual eyelashes

Step 2
Place the lash with bulb at, or as near as possible to, the client’s
natural eyelash roots. Check as you go, with the client’s eyes open,
then closed, that the lashes follow the natural curve of the eyelid.
Apply shorter lashes around the inner and outer eye, and longer
ones around the centre.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Applying individual eyelashes

Step 3
When the glue is dry, comb through to blend in with the natural
eyelashes. Apply eye make-up. The finished result should enhance
the eyelashes but not look obvious.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Application of strip lashes – step-by-step guide-Artificial lashes

● Artificial lashes are designed to give definition and enhancement to the
eyes. You can create a natural or dramatic look with the variety of lashes
available.
● The two main types of lashes are strip lashes and individual lashes.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Strip lashes
● There is a great variety
available, including different
shapes and sizes, colours,
rhinestone effects, glitter, tear
drop, metallic strands,
feathers, natural, dramatic
and lace.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Strip lashes
● The majority of strip lashes
are made using sterilised
human hair, which are tied or
attached to a thin plastic
band.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Application of strip lashes

● Remember: always ensure your client has had a patch test.

● Discuss with the client the style and colour of lash that they would like.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 1: make-up
● Apply make-up: foundation, blusher and eye shadow.

● Do not apply mascara or eyeliner.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Step 2: client’s position

● Seat the client in a semi-reclined position and work from above.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Step 3: handling the lashes

● When you look at artificial lashes, you will notice that they taper, with longer
hairs on the outer edge becoming shorter towards the inner edge.

● Using a pair of tweezers, grasp the end of the plastic strip at the outer
edge.

● Gently peel the strip from the plastic base.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 4: trimming the lashes

● If necessary, trim the lashes to fit.

● Always use scissors away from your client’s eyes.

● Start at the outer end with the longer lashes. Often the plastic band will
extend past the lashes.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 5: curving the lashes

● Once you have trimmed the lashes, gently hold both ends of the lashes and
bend or roll the band to create a natural curve.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 6: repeat

● Repeat steps 3 to 5 with the other artificial lash.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 7: applying adhesive

● Using the tweezers, pick up one lash at the inner end with the shorter
lashes. The tweezers should be near the base of the lash.

● Using an orange stick, apply a thin strip of adhesive to the entire band.
Apply a little extra on each end of the band to ensure the ends of the strip
will hold tight (they may lift due to their weight).

● Let the adhesive dry on the band for 10‒20 seconds.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Step 8: applying the lash

● You should now be holding the short lashes with the tweezers and the long
lashes between your thumb and index finger.

● Ask your client to close their eyes until you tell them otherwise.

● Apply the lash to the eye with the shorter lashes on the inside, longer
lashes on the outside.

● Raise the eyebrow to maximise the stretching of the eyelid.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 9: securing the lash

● Anchor one end of the artificial lash and adjust the lash as needed until it
adheres to the entire base of the lashes.

● Using an orange stick, gently but firmly press the strip of the artificial lashes
so it rests right on top of the natural lashes at the base.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 10: adhesive setting

● Ask the client to keep their eyes closed for a minute or two until the
adhesive sets.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
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Step 11: finishing

● Once the adhesive has set, gently press along the base of the lash and
again gently add pressure to the entire artificial lash without touching the
skin.

● It should look and feel like you are pressing the lash into the lash line.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 12: repeat

● Repeat steps 7–11 with the other artificial lash.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 13: checking with client

● Once you have applied both lashes and they feel secure, take a look at
your work.

● Ask your client if they feel comfortable. If your client is unfamiliar with
wearing strip lashes, inform them that they may feel heavy and obstructive
at first.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

Step 14: finishing make-up

● Finish the client’s eye make-up.

● Apply eyeliner to give a professional finish.

● Apply mascara to both the natural and artificial lashes to seal them.

● Use eyelash curlers if necessary.

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 Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and
eyelashes

● How long before an artificial lash application should a patch test be

performed?
Answer: at least 24 hours

● Can eyeshadow be applied before the application of strip lashes?

Answer: Yes

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