Milady Standard Esthetics Advanced: Advanced Skin Care Massage
Milady Standard Esthetics Advanced: Advanced Skin Care Massage
Esthetics Advanced
Advanced Skin Care Massage
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Objectives
• Demonstrate advanced facial massage movements
to be incorporated into your current massage.
• Diagram advanced neck and décolletage
movements to be included in your current massage.
• Show how to add appropriate massage movements
into your back treatments.
• Identify movements that meet specific client needs.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Objectives
• Explain the procedure for a Shiatsu face
massage.
• List the steps for a reflexology ear massage.
• Discuss when to incorporate stones into facial
massage.
• Complete a manual lymph drainage of the face
• Describe machine-aided lymph drainage of the
face.
© Copyright 2013 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned,
copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Massage Contraindications
• Inflamed skin conditions
• Burns (sunburns and chemical burns)
• Open wounds or rashes
• Sensitive skin
• Contagious disease
• Recent facial injections (2 weeks)
• Recent surgery in area (2 months)
• Recent injury to area
• Thrombus, embolus, thrombosis, or blood clots
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Concerns But Not Contraindications
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Advanced Facial Movements
• Center point: place middle and index finger in
center between brows; perform friction circles
down onto the tip of the nose and back to
center between brows; draw fingers up the
forehead to hairline and glide to next starting
position
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Center Point
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Sinus Relief
• Using four fingers next to nostrils, lightly and
slowly slide fingers up under eyes and down
next to nostrils; apply firm pressure for 10
seconds; hook fingers under maxilla and
apply light pressure and release; glide fingers
around bone toward ears and over temples,
across brows and down sides of nose, ending
at nostrils.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Sinus Relief
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Feather Off
• With hands on forehead, fingers meeting in
middle, gently glide to temples and off the
forehead, as if with a feather (a nice finishing
movement).
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Forehead Press
• Place your right
hand flat on
forehead; place left
hand over top of
right and press down
on forehead;
release; repeat
three to six times.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Gallop 1-2-1
• Begin at the mandible bone at center of chin; apply light
lifting and tapping motion, using two taps with right hand
followed by one tap with left hand; move from center to
left side of face, back across to right side of face and end
at center of chin.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Full Face Sweep
• Starting with center of chin, glide hands around outer
perimeter of face, passing hands by each other at the
forehead; circle face three to six times.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Neck and Décolletage Movements
• Rolling along: with fists, start on outside
points of back of each shoulder and work in
clockwise circles until hands meet at neck;
rotate up neck to occipital; work back down
neck and across shoulders; repeat full
movement six to eight times
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Neck and Décolletage Movements
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Feels Good Movement
• Place palms and slightly open fingers at
outside back of shoulders and slide across the
back of shoulders dragging tips of fingers up
the back of the neck to the occipital ridge.
Apply light pressure to hollow just under
occipital ridge. Release and glide hands down
and back to outside of shoulders. Repeat
movement six to eight times.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Feels Good Movement
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Décolletage Sweep
• Starting with left hand, sweep from right
shoulder across décolletage and over left
shoulder, around back of shoulder, continuing
to sweep across back and up neck. As left
hand moves across back of shoulder, right
hand begins same movement, working in
other direction.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Décolletage Sweep
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Ski Up Movement
• Stroke hand over hand, from below left ear down the
neck and off shoulder. Turn client’s head and repeat
on right side of neck.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Neck-Shoulder-Arm
• Gently hold client’s head with right hand, moving
head toward right. Stroke in one continuous
movement with left hand down left side of neck,
down from of arm to elbow. Glide over elbow and up
back of arm, continuing up neck to occiput. Stroke
along occiput from spine to ear and repeat
movement sweeping down neck to arm again.
Repeat movement several times and perform
movement on right side.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Neck-Shoulder-Arm
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Rock-a-Bye Movement
• With heels of hands on upper part of shoulders,
press down on shoulders and rock, alternating
hands, slowly stretching tense
sternocleidomastoid and trapezius muscles.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Back Sweep
• With client prone, starting at waist, place
hands palms down on either side of spine.
Applying firm pressure, glide up along sides
of spine to top of shoulders. Glide across
shoulders and down client’s sides to waist.
Repeat as needed.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Back Sweep
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Spine Munch
• With thumb and index or middle finger, use a
squeezing and pinching movement to work up
along spinal column from waist to neck. One hand
leads the other as you progress upward. Repeat
as needed.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Swim Up Back
• With flat of hands, work up client’s back from
waist to shoulders, massaging in large effleurage
circles from spine toward sides of body. Repeat as
needed.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Shiatsu Massage for the Face
• Shiatsu (figure pressure) is a form of physical
therapy for the body that originated in Japan.
• It combines massage techniques with the
application of pressure to acupuncture points
found throughout the body.
• It is easy to learn and requires no special
equipment, supplies or oils and; can be
performed daily.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Acupuncture
• A Chinese practice that is based on the
traditional theory that good health depends
on the free circulation of energy or qi
throughout the body. The Chinese believe
that energy circulates through the body via
meridians, which are energy pathways to
the body surface and to internal organs.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Key Motor Points for Facial Shiatsu
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Key Motor Points for Facial Shiatsu
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Shiatsu to Count of Three
• Touch the skin (touch one)
• Apply pressure (press two)
• Release pressure (release three)
• Each count should last three seconds and
each point pressed should be repeated
three to five times with 10 repeats in
particularly fatigued areas.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Performing Shiatsu
• Apply firm pressure from within your body,
not your fingers, hand, or wrist.
• Use only pads of fingers and thumbs.
• Press in slowing on each point and hold
pressure at the level of resistance.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Reflexology
• Part of a group of traditional diagnostic
systems called microsystems; based on the
belief that the health of the entire organism is
reflected in each individual part of the
organism
• Foot reflexology, ear diagnosis, pulse
diagnosis, and iridology are techniques
based on this theory.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Ear Reflexology Practice
• Relaxing and refreshing technique
• Firm but gentle pressure is applied.
• The ear is stroked, squeezed, or pulled.
• Both ears are massaged simultaneously
using the thumbs and forefingers.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Facial Reflexology Motor Points
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Stone Massage Techniques
• Heated and wrapped stones have been
used throughout history in most parts of
the world to warm and soothe.
• In esthetics, stones are used to destress
and relax a client.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Thermotherapy
• The use of heat and cold
• Thermotherapy is used to trigger a
circulatory response.
• Heat is transferred by conduction.
• The longer stones are left on skin, the
more heat is transferred and the deeper it
penetrates.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Warm Stones
• Basalt composition is
preferred for heat
retention.
• Igneous rocks result from
volcanic activity.
• Fine-grained, black to
gray in color
• Should be nonporous
and smooth
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Cold Stones
• Placed on skin, triggers vasoconstriction,
blanching the skin, and reducing
inflammation
• Two types of stones preferred:
– Marine sedimentary stones gathered from lakes,
rivers, or oceans
– Marble stones, a form of sedimentary limestone
that is hand-cut and sanded to a smooth texture;
may change color when cold
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Stone Handling
• Wash with antibacterial soap.
• Process in high-level disinfectant.
• Rinse thoroughly.
• Allow to dry and keep dry until ready to use
again.
• Place towel in bottom of heater and place
stones systemically, which facilitates finding
the right stone during massage.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Stone Handling
• Water in heater should cover stones.
• Water is heated to no more than 120°F as
determined with a cooking thermometer.
• Remove stones with slotted spoon, tongs,
or net to avoid burns.
• Place stones on towel to cool until they
can be held comfortably.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Stone Handling
• Store disinfected cold stones in plastic bag in
refrigerator.
• During treatment, place stones in bowl of ice to
retain chilled temperature.
• Place used stones on a towel in the treatment
area.
• Always check with client that stone
temperature is comfortable.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Stone Placement and Massage
• Place stones on either side of spine.
• Some technicians prefer to place under
shoulder and hands.
• Use small flat stones of 1” to 2” in diameter for
facials.
• Use two stones, one in each hand, in gentle
effleurage movements following classical
massage patterns.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Stone Placement and Massage
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Alternate Technique
• Massage with one hot stone and one cold
stone.
• The hot stone leads and the cold stone
follows in a chasing pattern.
• As stones lose their heat or cold, replace with
fresh stones.
• Technique has a rejuvenating effect.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Contraindications
• Couperose skin
• Inflamed or irritated skin
• Sensitive or broken skin
• Postsurgical skin (until completely healed)
• Poor health or hot flashes
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Lymphatic Massage
for Face and Neck
• Lymph drainage massage (LDM) to the face
and neck is the most useful procedure for the
client, unless there is edema or scar tissue
elsewhere in the body that needs attention.
• LDM stimulates circulation of lymph and
lymphocytes through facial and cervical lymph
nodes.
• Advanced skill that requires practice
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Indications for LDM
• Bruising and edema following injury or surgery
including dental and cosmetic.
• Obtain doctor’s release after surgery.
• Know causes of facial edema such as allergies,
hormones, medication, fatigue, illness, infection,
injury, excess salt in diet,
or weeping.
• Some causes are contraindications.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Contraindications for LDM
• Rule out contraindications before offering.
– Hyper- and hypoactive thyroid
– Congestive heart, kidney, or liver failure
– Severe asthma
– Allergies
– Allergic reaction
– Infection or skin inflammation
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
LDM Benefits
• Stimulates sluggish immune system
• Improves low energy
• Relaxes high-energy clients
• Helps speed healing
• Reduces muscle tension
• Carries away waste
• Allows increased nutrition to flow to skin
• Improves complexion
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Treating Chronically
Swollen Lymph Nodes
• Chronically swollen lymph nodes are often from
repeated infections or childhood illnesses.
• Physician examination is needed to rule out
serious conditions.
• LDM can help reduce size of nodes and
improve lymph circulation.
• Teach client to perform daily self-massage.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Locating Lymph Nodes
on Face and Neck
• Two triangles: one on each side of neck, bound
by sternocleidomastoid muscle, clavicle,
superior border of trapezius muscle
• Jaw: below mandible from the angle of jaw to
chin and in back behind ears and along base of
skull
• Face: front of ears, angle of jaw anterior to
masseter muscle, and near eyes, nose, and
mouth
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Locating Lymph Nodes
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Observing and Palpating
Lymph Nodes
• Look for symmetry and swelling in front of
or behind ears, under eyes, along jawline,
in the neck, and in the supraclavicular
triangle.
• If swollen or inflamed, discuss.
• Swollen lymph nodes indicate infection.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Observing and Palpating
Lymph Nodes
• After observing, palpate (use medium to light
pressure, massage in small circles over lymph
node area. Attempt to locate pea sized
nodules that can be removed.
• Palpate:
– Behind/front of ears
– Under jawline from to chin to angle of jaw
– Along sternocleidomastoid muscle
– In the supraclavicular triangle
© Copyright 2013 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned,
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Guide for Locating Lymph Nodes
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Guide for Locating Lymph Nodes
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Guide for Locating Lymph Nodes
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Lymph Draining Pattern
• Divide face into two areas.
• Inside triangle: lymph drains to nodes under
the mandible and down through neck to
clavicle
• Outside triangle: lymph drains to the
preauricular nodes and deep nodes of neck
below earlobe and through neck to clavicle
(continues)
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Lymph Draining Pattern
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Extending Lymph Draining Massage
• Perform LDM on both sides.
• Use stationary circles
– Slight compression at beginning
– Stretch of tissues at end of movement
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Extending Lymph Draining Massage
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Machine-Aided Lymph Drainage
• Vacuum/suction LD machine uses a
push-pull action.
• Vacuum apparatus combined with a rhythmic
tapping (tap on the suction hole of the glass
attachment).
• Machines allow more services and are less
labor-intensive than manual methods.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Basic Guidelines for Machine LDM
• Vacuum system has only one handpiece so
work one side at a time; use one finger to
tap-lift on the suction hole to replicate the
pulses of the lymphatic device.
• Lymphatic massage device has two
handpieces allowing you to work both sides
of face at a time.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Postmassage Care
• If client has been fasting, ill, taking prescribed
medications, or exposed to excessive toxins
in diet and environment, he or she may feel
some discomfort after massage. Advise client
to drink eight 8-ounce glasses of water every
day and get some extra rest. If client does not
recover quickly, refer to a physician.
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Practical Procedures
• P 17-1: Shiatsu Massage for Head/Neck
• P 17-2: Ear Reflexology Massage
• P 17-3: Stone Massage for the Face
• P 17-4: Manual Lymph Drainage
• P 17-5: Machine-aided MLD
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Summary and Review
• Name three additional facial movements that
would be beneficial to the skin.
• Discuss two advanced neck or décolletage
movements.
• Describe how you might incorporate the back
movement techniques within the cleansing
process of a back treatment.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Summary and Review
• Which facial movements would be eliminated
from a rosacea massage?
• Explain how Shiatsu massage can be included
for a highly stressed client.
• What is the Shiatsu pressure technique?
• List contraindications for Shiatsu massage.
• Describe ear reflexology and how it is performed.
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Summary and Review
• What types of stones are commonly used in
stone therapy massage?
• What are temperature guidelines for preparing,
handling, and cleaning stones?
• What type of massage movement is commonly
performed with stones?
• What are contraindications for stone massage?
• What are some benefits of LDM?
(continues)
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Summary and Review
• What are some contraindications of LDM?
• Describe basic LDM movement.
• Explain the basic LDM process.
• Explain the basic process of machine-aided
lymph drainage.
• What are the pros and cons for manual lymph
drainage and machine-aided lymph drainage?
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Congratulations!
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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.