DRAFTING BASIC / BLOCK PATTERN

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. Prepare and select drafting tools in accordance with job requirements;
2. Draft basic/block pattern with appropriate tools; and
3. Check basic pattern based on customer’s specifications.

LET US STUDY

Words to Study

• Draft – a pattern sketch made by following the body measurements

• Pattern – are devices used by dressmakers as guide when cutting an article or garment
• IMC – stands for Individual Measurement Chart
• Drafting – an engineering type method based on a set of body measurement
• Measurement –foundation of pattern drafting
• Perpendicular line –composed of two lines meeting in a right angle
• Drafted pattern – made to order using individual’s measurement
• Commercial pattern – made using standard measurement of average women
 Basic pattern is the “starting point” for Flat-Pattern Designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with
just enough ease for freedom of movement. The basic pattern has five pieces: bodice front, bodice back, skirt front,
skirt back and sleeve.

The basic pattern is sometimes called a master or foundation pattern. The drafted pattern is referred to as
the block.

Salient Measures to Observe in Drafting Patterns

1. Be sure to have an accurate division of the measurement. Use L-square.

2. Use the aid of a hip curve if necessary.
3. Always use the L-square or ruler in making lines.
4. French curve is necessary in shaping the neckline as well as that of the armhole to produce a perfect curve.
5. Use weights or dressmaker’s pins so that the pattern will be moved.

Kinds of Pattern

1. Block Pattern – made by drafting from the measurements which have been carefully taken from an
individual or from a model.
2. Construction pattern – the intervening step between the block and the final pattern. Designs are
complicated, construction patterns are sectioned.
3. Final pattern – provided with the necessary symbols that will guide the cutter on how to lay out the
pattern on the cloth. Symbols for darts, seam allowances, grainline, center fold, and notches and other
markers are used.
 A. Body Measurement Needed

Individual Measurement Chart

Name: Date:

Actual Body Measurement Measurem Computed Measurement Needed

Body Parts ent Needed
(divisor) Inches Centimeters
Inches Centimeters

Girth measurements
(Horizontal measurements)
• Shoulder 15 38.1 2 7.5 19.05
• Bust point width 6½ 16.51 2 3.25 8.225
• Bust 34 86.36 4 8.5 21.59
• Waist 25 63.5 4 6.25 15.875
• First hip 30 76.2 4 7.5 19.05
• Second hip 34 86.36 4 8.5 21.59
• Armhole 15 38.1 2 7.5 19.05
10 ½ 26.67 2 5.25 13.335
• Arm girth
Length measurements
(Vertical measurements)
• Back figure 15 38.1 1 15 38.1
• Front figure 15 ½ 39.37 1 15 ½ 39.37
• Bust point height 8½ 21.59 2 4.25 10.795
• Length of sleeve 8 20.32 1 8 20.32
• Length of skirt 22 55.88 1 22 55.88
B. Drafting the Back and Front Skirt Basic Pattern
Get one-half sheet of pattern paper. Construct a back skirt
basic pattern.
Draw perpendicular line T.
• 1-2 = 3/8 inch (1 cm).
• 1-3 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
• 1-4 = 7 inches (18 cm) to 8 ¾ inches (22 cm).
• 1-5 = skirt length
• 1-6 = middle of 1 and 4
• Square out 3, 6, 4, and 5 to the right
• Square out 2, 6, 4, and 5 to the left

Back Skirt
• 1-7B = ¼ waist + 1.2 inches (3 cm)
• 4-8B = ¼ second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
• 5-9B = ¼ second hip + 3/8 inch (1cm)
• 1-10B = ½ bust point width. Square down 10B
• 10B-11B = 5 ½ inches (14 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm)
• 10B-12B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
• 10B-13B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 12B and 13B to 11B
• Fold 12B over 13B and connect 2 to 7B with a hip curve.
• Connect 7B to 8B with a hip curve
• Connect 8B to 9 B with a straight line
Front Skirt
• Square down 10B
• 1-7F = ¼ waist + 1 ½ inches (4 cm).
• 4-8F = ¼ second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
• 5-9F = ¼ second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
• 1-10F = ½ bust point width. Square down 10F.
• 10F-11F =5 ¼ inches (13 cm) to 5 ½ inches
(14cm).
• 10F-12F= ¾ inch (2 cm).
• 11F –13F = ¾ inch (2 cm). Connect 12F and 13F
to 11F
• Fold 12F over 13F and connect 3 to 7F with a
hip curve
• Connect 7F to 8F with a hip curve
• Connect 8F to 9 F with a straight line
• 5 to 14 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 14 to 9F
with a hip curve
HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?

1. What are the parts of the foundation pattern?

2. What parts of the body are measured before drafting a pattern of the basic bodice skirt or sleeve?

3. Explain the factors that determine a good foundation pattern.

LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task 1
Fill the blanks with the correct answer. Write your answer in your quiz notebook.
1. A pattern is a device used by when making a garment.
2. An engineering type method based on set of body measurement is
.
3. A chart is a guide needed in drafting basic pattern.
4. French curve is used to get a very firm smooth line around the line such as armhole and
neckline.
5. In drafting the skirt 4 to 8F is second hip + 1.5 cm.
6. Made of paper and drafted from the measurement taken from the individual or model is called .

Task 2
This time, show how much you’ve learned from pattern drafting. Be ready with your IMC, measuring tools or
drafting tools and your procedure. Each one of you will perform basic pattern drafting based on your IMC.
1. Back skirt
2. Front skirt