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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
64 views

The BMW Carburetor: - :::::: : I:::::: :: !: J L I I: : I

Uploaded by

George Zormpas
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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.

-~ ~~~::::::=:i::::::====~=::!:Jlii:====:i~~~~~~~~~

The BMW
Carburetor

BMW of North America, Inc.


l
Correct carburetor overhaul and adjustment
procedures are essential for the proper
operation of all so-equipped motor vehicles,
as well as for the safety of the technician
doing the work. This book provides general
directions for servicing BMW carburetors using
proven techniques.

However, since there are numerous variations


in procedures, as well as the skill of the
technician doing the work, BMW of North
America cannot possibly anticipate all such
variations and provide cautions or advise for
each. Therefore, be sure to observe all
necessary safety precautions when attempting
any adjustment or repair proc edure on any
carburetor.
The BMW Carburetor
Table of Contents

BMW DIDTA Carburetors 2


Introduction 2
Components 2
Overhaul 4
Accelerator Injection Pump Adjustment 9
Automatic Choke Adjustment 9
Tune Up 10
Re-Setting the Idle Adjustment Screw 11
BMW DIDTA Carburetor Specifications 12

BMW INAT Carburetors 13


Introduction 13
Components 13
Overhaul 16
Accelerator Injection Pump Adjustment 20
Automatic Choke Adjustment 22
Synchronizing 23
Fast Idle Adjustment 25
1974 Modifications 27
Re-Setting the Throttle Stop Screw 27
BMW I NAT Carburetor Specifications 29

Produced by BMW of North America

© 1982, BMW of North America, Inc.


BMW DIDTA Carburetors
Introduction
The Solex DIDTA two barrel carburetor was It has two stages, incorporating an automatic
introduced on 1973 BMW 2002 models, and choke. thermo-start valve, idle shut-off
continued through 1976. valve, and a vacuum-operated second stage.

Components

And this is the electric idle jet.


This is the automatic choke, which uses both
engine coolant and electric power to control
the choke for warm up.

It is constructed in three layers: the Top


Section. the Jet Section which also contains
the Float, and the Base.
This is the second stage vacuum box and
linkage.

Remove the second stage vacuum box plunger


This is the electrically controlled cold- from its linkage and disconnect the fast idle
start valve. rod. Remove the five screws on top.
2
There are four short screws and one long. Suction Valve, the Main Jets, and the Fuel
Now, lift off the top. and Air Correction Jets for the Second Stage
Crossover, and

The Base Section contains both the First and


It contains the Second Stage Vacuum Box, Second Stage Throttle Plates and Linkages,
the Choke Assembly, the Choke Flap, the the Accelerator Pump Linkage, and the
Fuel Inlet, the Float Bowl Vent, and the Mixture Screw.
Second Stage Fuel Enrichment Nozzle. On
the bottom of the Top Section, you can see
the Float and Float Needle Valve.

The Jet and Base Sections are held togetl1er


by two screws on the bottom of the base.
Disconnect the Injection Pump Linkage and
separate the two sections.

Also on the Top Section is the Choke and


Second Stage Vacuum Box. On the underside
is the Second Stage Vacuum Box Connecting
Rod and the Choke Pull-Down Vacuum Box.
As soon as the engine runs, vacuum from
above the throttle plate pulls the choke
plunger down to open the choke flap 3mm.

The Jet Section contains the Air Correction


Jets, the Mixture Tubes, the Fuel Discharge
Nozzles, the Air By-pass Screw. the combined
Fuel Shut-Off Valve and Idle Jet, the Accelerator
Injection Pump Nozzle in the First Stage,

Now remove the three screws holding the


choke cover in place. Inside, is the Choke
Pull-Down Plunger, the Choke Connecting
Lever, the Choke Cam, and the Fast-Idle Lever.
the Accelerator Injection Pump, the
3
Inside the cover itself is the Bi-Metallic Spring, Inside the Vacuum Box is the Pull-Down
and, beneath the Spring, the Choke Heater Diaphragm and Return Spring. Adjustments
Coil. are made with the screw and lock nut on
the vacuum box cover.

Overhaul

Check the condition of the Second Stage A practical way of measuring float level is to
Vacuum Box Diaphragm by depressing the place the carburetor at a 45° angle, and
connecting rod and blocking off the vacuum measure the distance from the float ring to
passage. The rod should remain in the housing. the edge of the Top Section. It should be
If it returns to the down position, either the 17.5mm.
diaphragm is cracked or broken or the paper
gasket between the vacuum box and the Top
Section is leaking.

On 1973 DIDTA's, there was an enrichment


Note: The spring clip between the float and valve mounted on top of the carburetor's cover.
the needle valve must be attached to ensure The valve must be removed to chec k the
that the valve will open when the float drops. condition of the diaphragm.
4
r-
r

When removing the valve, be careful of the If it returns to its normal position, replace
spring which returns the valve to its the diaphragm assembly. We'll adjust the
normal position. choke when we've re-assembled the carburetor
sections. If the Jet Section hasn't been
separated from the Base, do so now.

If the diaphragm is defective, the entire valve


must be replaced. The diaphragm cannot be
orderetl separately. Pry out the Accelerator Injection Nozzle and
clean it. Make sure it is not clogged.

Check the condition of the choke pull-down Check for the free movement of the steel ball
diaphragm just as you did the second stage in the valve, and the condition of the "O"
vacuum. Push the choke rod in, and cover ring seal.
the vacuum passage. The rod should remain in.

5
Press the nozzle back into the First Stage. The Accelerator Injection Pump is a spring-
Be careful: It will fit into the Second Stage. loaded, diaphragm-type pump. Check the
condition of the diaphragm. If it's cracked or
broken, replace it.

The Injection Pump Suction Valve is under


the brass tube, and also acts as a relief valve.
Make sure the steel ball which seals the valve Note: When replacing the cover, tighten the
under pressure moves freely. screws in rota'tion to assure a proper seal
and pre-load the diaphragm slightly.

The brass tube is removeable. If you pull out Remove the Main Jets and Second Stage
the tube- it's a pressure fit- don't lose the ball. Crossover Jets. Make sure they're clean and
unclogged.
Note: It is possible to install the first stage
jets in the second stage, and vice versa. Make
sure the correct jets are in their respective
stages. If you have any doubts, refer to the
table on page number 12.

6
The Air Correction Jets in the throat of the On carburetors from 1974 onward, the Idle
first and second stages should also be cleaned. Jet is combined with the Idle Shut-Off Valve.
Once again, make sure they are put back into Remove the valve and clean it, and check
the correct stage. The mixture tubes cannot the condition of the rubber seal. It cannot
be removed. be adjusted.

The Shut-Off Valve is an electrically powered


On earlier carburetors without a combined Idle
solenoid controlled valve that remains open
Jet and Shut-Off Valve, remove the jet and
when powered. When the ignition is switched
clean it.
off, the valve closes, interrupting fuel flow
to prevent engine run-on.

Note: The plug on the Second $tage Crossover


has been removed to clean out the passages;
The valve can be checked by pulling off the
be careful when re-installing the Idle Jet and
wire while the engine is running. If the engine
plug. They can be switched. The idle jet should
stops, the valve is good.
a/ways be in the First Stage.
If there is no change, or the engine merely
runs slower or rougher, the valve is defective.

7
The Thermo-Start Valve is electrically operated Now run it in until it bottoms, then back it
and provides extra fuel for enrichment during out 1 ½ to 2 turns.
co ld starting for a short period of time.

The Base Section has only two adjustments:


The valve must be cooled to a temperature the Mixture Screw and the Second Stage Stop
below 57 Fahrenheit tor testing. At that Screw.
temperature it should remain closed. About
a minute after electrical power has been
applied to the valve, the bi-metallic should
have lifted it off its seat.
If it does not, the resister is defective and
the entire unit must be replaced. It cannot be
adjusted, since it's set at the factory under
strict climatic conditions.

Run the Mixture Screw all the way out. Check


the "O" ring seal, and replace it if necessary.
Now, run it in all the way until it bottoms, then
back it out 1 ½ to 2 turns.

The second stage throttle stop screw should


only be adjusted if the throttle is open - you
can see too much light around the edges - or
if it's binding. The throttle plate should be
Remove the Air By-Pass Screw. Check the " O" closed, but not binding.
ring seal on the screw.
Now, re-assemble the carburetor.

8
Note: When putting the Top Section back on Make sure the Accelerator Injection Nozzle is
the rest of the unit, do not attempt to adjust properly seated before replacing the top. If
the connecting rod from the Second Stage it's not, you simply won't be able to get the
Vacuum Box to the main Second Stage top on correctly.
Linkage. It's set at the factory.

Accelerator Injection Pump Adjustment


assembly. The stroke of the plunger can be
adjusted with the nuts on the end of the
connecting rod. Screwing in the nuts increases
injection quantity; screwing them out
decreases the amount of injected fuel.

The diaphragm was pre-loaded during re-

Automatic Choke Adjustment

The choke pull-down rod has no adjustment Pull the vacuum line off the distributor. Rotate
screw. It is set at the factory. Should the the throttle linkage so the choke flap is open
choke flap not open the specified 3mm, 3mm.
bend the tube inside the choke housing.
This will put the choke lever on the second
step of the fast idle cam. Now start the
engine and check to see whether speed is
within the specifications in the rear of
this section.

Fast idle adjustments are made with the choke


connecting rod. They must be done on a
warm engine.
9
If it is not, adjust it with the nuts on the Now, replace the Choke Cover. Make sure the
choke connector rod. To lower RPM's, pin on the end of the choke lever fits into
decrease the length of the rod. To raise RPM's, the bi-metallic spring.
increase the length of the rod. Keep
Align the mark on the cover with the center
re-checking speed until the correct setting
mark on the base.
is obtained.

Tune Up
Note: Dwell and timing should be within
specifications before starting, and the engine
should be at normal operating temperature.

The mixture screw is used to adjust CO. But


the air by-pass screw does somewhat affect
mixture, and the mixture screw somewhat
affects engine speed.
Disconnect the Charcoal Cannister. If the
model has Air Injection, disconnect the Air Use both screws to obtain the desired readings
Pump at the Check Valve, and plug the line. for the model year at hand.
Final checks, and adjustments, should be done
with the air cleaner on.
If the correct balance between idle and CO
cannot be obtained, it is possible that the
idle adjusting screw is not correctly adjusted.
This is set at the factory, and should have a
plastic sealing cap or a paint spot. There is
a special procedure for adjusting that screw.

Basically, the air by-pass screw is used to


adjust RPM's.

10
Re-Setting the Idle Adjustment Screw
The engine should be at normal operati ng
temperature and running.

If CO has changed, alternately adjust both


screws until you have the specified CO at
Completely close the Air By-Pass Screw. 700 RPM' s. Once these readings are obtained,
Adjust CO to 3 per cent on '73 and '7 4 do not re-adjust the idle adjusting screw. Seal
models ... or 2 per cent on '75 and '76 cars. the screw with a paint spot.
with the Mixture Screw.
Now, continue adjustments in the normal
fashion. Disconnect the charcoal cannister and
the air pump and plug the line. Bring idle and
CO to the correct specifications with the air
by-pass and mixture screws.

Bring idle speed to 700 RPM's with the idle


adjusting screw.

Finally, set the Dash Pot Linkage with the


adjusting nut so the arm holds RPM's at 1400
on deceleration.

11
~

"' BMW DIDTA Carburetor Specifications

Jet Sizes

I I Fast First First Stage Second { Second Stage


Year/ Model Idle Idle Idle Idle Stage Air Stage Air
Speed CO% Speed* Main Correction Main Correction

1-----~'-----...... -- -
1973 900 + 50 °-
8- 2300
- 45 117 5 120 137.5 105
2002 , -
--'-----~------c _____..,______,.______-+--
1 ,2
'
I
I

1
2500 ,

' 1974 I 0.8- 2300-


I 2002 900±50 1.2 2500 47.5t 117.5 120 140 90

.. 1975 - - 900+ 100 1 1-5 · -1800- 50t 125 130 122.5 80


2002 - 3.0# 2000
- _ _ _ _,...._ _ _ _ _,.____ - _.,.___ ---+- ----- - -
1976
1 -0 - 1800
2002 900+100 - sot 120 120 12s 80
~ Sta~ - . 1.5# 2000 -== _ _ _...__ _ _ _ _.._,,,= ---+---- ~~::-_,.. ·-----

~
1 5- 1800-
,2002
(Calif.) _
900 ± 1oo 3_0
#
2000
sot 12s 130 122.s so
....__ _ ___:._ _ _ _ _....J_ _ _ _ _ _....__ _ _ _ _....__ _ _ _ ___._ _ _ _ _---t

* With Distributor Vacuum Lines discon nected


# With Air Injection Line disconnected and plugged.
t Combined with Electric Shut-Off Valve.

tr
F
BMW INAT Carburetors
---:=:=!111----;;:[&l-----=-===--
I ntroduction
The Zenith INAT Carburetor used on all six
cylinder, carbureted, U. S. specification BMWs
was introduced in 1969, and is a two-stage
model with an automatic choke and a vacuum-
operated second stage.

Components

This is the automatic choke, which uses both And this is the idle shut-off valve.
engine coolant and electric power to control
the choke for warm up.

The carburetor is constructed in four layers: the


This is the second stage vacuum box and Top Section, the Jet Section, and Float-Bowl
linkage. Section, and the Base.

This is the electrically operated cold-start valve. Loosen the 1.5mm Allen screw ... or the set
13
screw on earlier models, and disconnect the
choke connecting rod.

On top is the Cold-Start Valve, the Air


Now, remove the nine screws on top. Eight are Correction Jets, the Idle Jet, the Accelerator
around the outside; the ninth is in the center, Injection Pump, the Fuel Inlet, the Accelerator
underneath the air cleaner stud. Note the Injection Nozzle in the First Stage, and the First
position of the three longer screws. and Second Stage Fuel Discharge Nozzles.

The top contains the Choke Flap and the Vent


Chimney.
On the bottom of the Jet Section is the Float
and Float Needle Valve, the Main Jets, the
Cold-Start Jet, and the Accelerator Injection
Pump Suction and Pressure Valves.

The Jet Section is removed by taking out the


three screws on top. The Cold Start Valve must
also be removed.

Four screws in the Base Section hold the Float-


Bowl Section and Base together.
The plastic connection link and the Second
Stage Vacuum Box linkage rod must also be
removed before the two can be separated.
14
[
,,.

The Float-Bowl Section contains part of the Remove the three screws holding the choke
First Stage Throttle Linkage, the Idle Screw, cover in place. Inside is the Choke Pull-Down
and the Second Stage Vacuum Box and Plunger, the Choke Connecting Lever, the
Connecting Rod. Choke Cam, and the Fast-Idle Screw.

Inside the cover itself is the Bi-Metallic Spring,


The Base, or Throttle Plate Section, contains and, beneath the Spring, the Choke Heater
the remainder of the First Stage Throttle Coil.
Linkage, the Second Stage Throttle Linkage,
the First and Second Stage Throttle Plates, the
Choke Assembly, the Idle Shut Off Valve, and
the Mixture Screw.

Inside the Vacuum Box is the Pull-Down


,\ Diaphragm and Return Spring. Adjustments
I are made with the screw and lock nut on the
vacuum box cover.

On top of the Choke Housing is the Choke Pull


Down Vacuum Box. As soon as the engine
cranks, vacuum from below the throttle plate
pulls the choke plunger up to open the choke
3mm.

15
Overhaul
Begin with the first and second layers removed In front of the choke housing is the second
from the Float-Bowl and Base Sections. There stage vacuum box, which pulls the second
are a number of external adjustments on this stage throttle open.
part of the carburetor.

Behind the choke housing is the second stage Remove the box from the carburetor body.
linkage. There are two adjusting screws on the There is a hole for releasing the ball joint about
oottom of this linkage: the second stage half way up the brass connecting sleeve.
throttle stop and the Lock-Out Linkage Plunger
which sets tension on the first stage linkage
cam.

If necessary, adjust the throttle plate stop Make sure the diaphragm is not cracked or
screw so the plate is closed, but not binding. broken. There's a quick way to check the
condition of the diaphragm without taking
it apart.
With the top on, push the rod up into the body
of the vacuum box and cover the supply hole
with your finger.

The rod should stay in the up position. If it does


not, the diaphragm is worn and must be
replaced.

Back off the lock nut and adjust the plunger


screw so the first stage roller moves freely
through its guide.

16
The linkage rod should be 66mm from the Remove the idle jet, the air correction jets, and
support plate to the end of the rod. Adjust the the mixture tubes. Make sure they're free of
rod if necessary and lock it in place with the dirt, and the small holes in the Jets aren't
jam nut. clogged. Before you replace them, however,
there's an important note to remember.
First and second stage jets can be accidentally
mixed up; and the idle jet can be placed in the
second stage.
When re-installing the jets, the smaller jet - the
one with the lower number - should always be
in the first stage; second stage jets. with higher
numbers, are larger than their first stage
counterparts.

If jets must be replaced, correct sizes can be


found in either the BMW Repair Manual for the
model you're working on, or in the rear of this
section, page number 2 9 .
The black plastic intermediate linkage rod
should be 50.8mm from end-to-end, or 40mm
from center-to center.

The first stage mixture tube has a flat edge


which fits a keyway in the body of the
carburetor so it cannot be incorrectly installed.
Adjust this distance with the turnbuckle, and
snap the rod back on the ball fitting. This is an
extremely critical setting, since it is the con-
nection between the Throttle Linkage and the
First Stage. The rod should have the metal
spacer shown here. If it does not, replace it.
During overhaul, the Jets, mixture tubes, valves,
and injection mechanism should be removed
and thoroughly cleaned. In addition, the float
and injection pump may need to be adjusted.
17
Now, remove the accelerator pump piston, and The correct angle for the nozzle is shown
check the neoprene seal. If the seal is worn, or above.
if it's the older leather type, replace it The The distance from the first stage fuel discharge
entire piston assembly must be replaced; the outlet to the nozzle should be 11 mm.
seal itself cannot be replaced.

The distance from the nozzle tip to the section


Finally, clean the injection pump nozzle. The parting surface should be 1.5mm. Injected fuel
fuel discharge nozzle in the first stage must be will now be sprayed down the inside surface of
removed to remove the pump nozzle. It's the venturi.
pressed into the carburetor body, so a slight
"twist and pull'' motion will remove it.

When re-assembling the Base and Float-Bowl


Sections, take note of the insulating gasket
After it's been cleaned, the tiny hole in the end between the two sections. It should have the
is free of dirt, press it back into the carburetor "O" ring seal shown here. If it does not, replace
housing. the gasket. Part numbers are the same.

18
L
the float is not clogged. It's spring loaded, and
should move easily up and return down for a
complete seal.
Here's a note to remember. If this valve must
be replaced, the new unit must be spring-
loaded. The Genuine BMW Replacement Part
is; some aftermarket parts are not! Now,
re-assemble these sections with the lower
portion of the caburetor.

Float level is determined by the thickness of


the shim beneath the needle valve. If float level
is too high, fuel can dribble into the intake
manifold at idle, resulting in excessively high
CO readings.

Next, remove, and clean the intermediate jet,


the main jets, and the pump suction and
pressure valves. Again, make sure the small
holes are open.

On 2500 and 2800 models, shim thickness As before, the main jets can be accidentally
should be 1 mm. mixed up. Make sure the smaller jet - the one
with the lower number- is in the first stage.

The shim on all 3 litre BMW engines should be


2mm.
The injection pump pressure and suction valves
have steel balls which should move freely. After
cleaning, they should "rattle" when shaken.

Finally, make sure the needle valve beneath


19
The Thermo-Start Valve is electrically operated The Shut-Off Valve is an electrically powered
and provides extra fuel for enrichment during solenoid controlled valve that remains open
cold starting for a short period of time. when powered. When the ignition is switched
off, the valve closes, interrupting fuel flow
to prevent engine run-on.

The valve must be cooled to a temperature


below 57 Fahrenheit for testing. At that The valve can be checked by disconnecting
temperature it should remain closed. About the lead while the engine is running. If the
a minute after electrical power has been engine runs slower, or rougher, the valve is
applied to the valve, the bi-metallic should good.
have lifted it off its seat.
If there is no change, the valve is probably
If it does not, the resister is defective and defective and should be replaced.
the entire unit must be replaced. It cannot be
adjusted, since it's set at the factory under
strict climatic conditions.

Accelerator Injection Pump Adjustment

Before replacing the top, injection quantity Remove the fuel discharge nozzle. The float
should be checked with the BMW Test Cup. bowl should be full of fuel. Insert the test cup
20
in the first stage venturi beneath the nozzle
and rotate the linkage to produce injection.

Remove the old vent cover and gasket, and


plug the vent hole with the aluminum plug in
the kit.
There should be between 1.1 and 1 .4cc's of
fuel in the cup. Injection quantity can be in-
creased by sealing the small hole in the bottom
of the piston with a heated pin or paper clip.

Drill a 4mm hole 8mm from the center of the


large vent hole.

Before re-installing the Top Section, check


the Vent Chimney. The carburetors on a// 3 litre
BMW engines must have a vent chimney like
the one shown.

Install the replacement vent chimney gasket,


and the replacement top section gasket. Note
the "Figure-8-Shaped" hole in the new top
section gasket.

Install the vent chimney, and replace the top


If there is a Tower, like this one, Vent Chimneys on the carburetor.
must be fitted. The BMW Vent Chimney
Modification Kit, part number 13 11 1 259 526
should be used.

21
Automatic Choke Adjustment

Begin by removing the top cover of the choke Now, loosen the jam nut of the pull down ad-
pull-down vacuum box and checking the justment screw, and back off the screw. Insert
condition of the diaphragm. If it's cracked or a 3mm tool between the bottom of the choke
worn, replace it.

Next, remove the choke cover. With the pull-


down plunger all the way down, the choke the connecting lever, and turn the adjusting
should be completely closed and the lever screw in until it just touches the top of the
should just touch the plunger. plunger. Tighten the lock nut.

If it does not, adjust the length of the con- Now, set the fast idle adjustment screw. The
necting rod with the set screw and snug up the basic setting is with the screw on the highest
snap ring underneath. notch of the fast-idle cam, the first stage
throttle plate should be open .?mm.

22
forget to fit the pin on the choke connecting
1
lever into the opening on the bi-metallic
spring, and align the marks on the covers.
Now, mount the carburetor on the engine.

When replacing the choke cover, do not

Synchronizing
Note: dwell and timing must be correct and the
engine must be at its full operating
temperature.

Install the synchronizing cups on each


Remove the air cleaner housing. Disconnect carburetor.
the vacuum advance and retard lines. Turn the
screw on the connecting linkage between the
two carburetors in to bring RPM's up to 1700.
Timing should be 22 before Top Dead Center.
Now, drop RPM's back to normal (900 RPM's),
and reconnect the vacuum lines.
There are two BMW Special Tools used for
carburetor synchronization: a secondary
breather pipe and a kit which contains
synchronizing cups and a meter.

Note: Place a cardboard shield around the


front cup so air flow is not affected by the fan.

Install the breather on the rocker cover and


connect the vacuum lines.
23
needle is zeroed, while maintaining the correct
CO value.

Remove the CO plugs from the manifold, and


pop off the connecting linkage between the Adjust the throttle screw on each carburetor to
two carburetors. It's alongside the rear obtain 900-1000 RPM's while keeping the
carburetor. needle on the meter zeroed.

Now insert the CO Probe into either the front or


rear manifold hole - whichever you choose. Adjust the mixture screw to get the proper CO
value for that model.

If one, or both carburetors have been rebuilt, After adjusting CO, it may be necessary to re-
run in the mixture screw until it bottoms, then adjust idle speed. Re-check CO, and re-adjust
back it out 1 ½ to 2 turns. that if necessary. The final check should
always be CO.

Remember, turning in the mixture screw leans


The procedure is to adjust RPM's and the out the mixture and lowers CO; turning it out
balance between the two carburetors so the richens the mixture and consequently raises CO.
24
Once the desired readings have been obtained Adjust the knurled nut on the turnbuckle to
from both carburetors, re-attach the linkage zero the meter.
between the two.

Back off the screw to allow engine speed to


Raise RPM's to 1700 with the screw on the return to idle. Make sure the screw is not
connecting linkage and check the meter. touching the throttle linkage; it should never be
used to set idle speed.

Fast Idle Adjustment


The adjustment for fast idle should be done
with the flow meter disconnected, the
carburetors correctly synchronized, and the
engine up to full operating temperature.

On one or the other carburetor, hold the


throttle linkage open while setting the choke
flap to an opening of 3mm. Carefully close the
throttle and release the choke flap. This puts
Turn off the engine and disconnect the linkage the fast-idle adjustment screw on the second
on each carburetor. Disconnect both advance step of the fast-idle cam.
and retard vacuum lines on the distributor and
plug them up. Without touching the accelerator, start the
engine. It should idle at 1600 to 1700 RPM's. If
it does not, it must be adjusted with the screw
inside the choke housing.

25
_J
Stop the engine, turn the linkage to full Reconnect the linkage between the car-
throttle, and adjust the screw through the buretors and release the fast idle cam by
small hole in the housing. One full turn of the stepping once on the accelerator. RPM's
screw equals approximately 300 RPM S's. should now drop back to normal - between
900 and 1000.

By turning the screw to the right, RPM's


increase; to the left, they decrease.
Finally set the Dashpot linkage with the
After making the adjustment, reset the vacuum line disconnected. Adjust the nut so
carburetor to fast idle and re-check the speed. the arm holds RPM's at 1500 on deceleration.

Repeat this procedure for the second Prior to the introduction of the 3 litre engine,
carburetor. there were no individual CO plugs on the
manifold. CO readings were taken only at the
Now, with both carburetors on the second tailpipe.
step of the first idle cam, start the engine. If
adjustments are correct, RPM's should not
exceed 2200.

CO adjustments are made by first adjusting


each carburetor to Best Idle.
Reconnect the vacuum retard line, and RPM's Then turn in each mixture screw the same
should drop between 200 and 300. There number of turns to obtain specified CO.
should be no change when the advance line
is reconnected.

26
l
I

197 4 Modifications
;-,.. But in '74 we made a few changes. The biggest Since throttle plate stop screws were correctly
difference was the addition of a second idle set at the factory, and are not intended to be
circuit and a modified Cold-Start System, adjusted, there is a special procedure for
sealed Throttle Stop Screws, and additional resetting that screw, plus slightly different
Jets. synchronizing procedures using the idle
by-pass screw and the mixture screw, rather
than the stop screw.

Re-Setting Th rattle Stop Screw


For resetting the throttle stop screw, assuming idle adjustment, or stop, screws to 900 RPM's,
the carburetors cannot by synchronized in and bring CO to 3 per cent with the mixture
the normal manner, the engine must be at screws.
full operating temperature and the air cleaner
must be off.

Once the desired balance has been obtained,


Remove the vacuum retard line from the lock the idle stop screws with plastic caps or
distributor and plug it up. Remove the linkage a paint spot.
from the carburetors, and install the test cups
and meter

Reconnect the vacuum hose. RPM's will drop


to approximately 700.
Close the mixture by-pass screws - run them
in until they bottom.

Now, repeat the synchronizing procedure using


the idle by-pass screws and the mixture
screws. This procedure is basically the same
Now, synchronize both carburetors with the as for earlier carburetor models.
27
adjust CO to a maximum of 2 per cent. As
before adjust the two screws on each car-
buretor together until the desired readings
are obtained.

Reconnect the linkage, and check synchroni-


zation at fast idle. If everything is OK, replace
the air cleaner.
For normal synchron ization, procedures are
very similar to earlier models. Now, reconnect the linkage rod and adjust
the knurled nut until the meter is zeroed.
The engine must be at normal operating
temperatures, and the air cleaners must be
removed.

If, after the linkage rod had been reconnected,


it is difficult to obtain the correct balance,
check the length of the short plastic rods that
With the idle by-pass crews, adjust RPM' s to connect the first and second stages. They
900 to 1000, and with the mixture screw, should be 50.8mm from end-to-end, or 40mm
from center-to center.

28
) ~) )
BMW INAT Carburetor Specifications

Jet Sizes
I

I
Year/Model
.~
Idle Idle
I Fast
Idle Idle
First
Stage
First Stage
Air
Second
Stage
Second Stage
Air
I Speed CO% l Speed* Main Correction Main Correction
I ,- -~ ~
...... l
·-·--- -
1969-71 1.5- 1600·
950 ± 50 42.5 115 80 140 120
2500 2.5 1700
1971
2800 950 ± 50 1.5·
--- ~--
- --- 1600-
42.5 115 80 140 100
·- I
I

1972-73
3.0S
Bavaria
- - 7-
2.5

Max.
- - 1700

1600-
- . ' . - -

950 ± 50 47 .5 117.5 80 145 120


I 3.0CS
Bavaria .. .. ~
I
2 1700

1972-73 I
3.0SA Max. 1600-
950 ± 50 47 .5 117.5 100 145 120
I 3.0CSA
Bavaria A I
2 1700

I
1974+
3.0S 950 ± 50 , Max. 1600- 42.5 117.5 120
80 145
I 3.0CS
Bavaria
. -•,
I

I
2 1700

1974+ I
3 .0SA Max. 1600·
3 .0CSA - 950 ± 50 ' 2 1700
42.5
'
117.5 100 145 120
•I
Bavaria A
1-- - •.. .•- - - - · · - .....!..
I
- . _......
+ Additional jets on 1974 carburetors:
* With Vacuum Retard disconnected and
plugged, and only one carburetor set for By-Pass Fuel Jet 40
fast idle. By-Pass Air Correction Jet 50
Cold-Start Fuel Jet 45
Cold-Start Air Correction Jet 80
Idle Air Correction Jet 120

I
J

© 1982 , BMWNA , Montvale , N.J. 07645

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- - - --~-
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