Textile Finishing
Textile Finishing
FINISHING
Note: Highlighted in yellow is the reference book and others are text books
INTRODUCTION
TO TEXTILE
FINISHING
Chapter 1
Introduction
● Finishes are “all the processes through which fabric is passed after
bleaching, dyeing, or printing in preparation for market and use…”
(Source - Dictionary of Fiber & Textile Technology).
Desizing Embossing
Temperature Regulation
Scouring Moiré
Repellent & Release
Shrinkage Control
Calendering Napping & Brushing
Flame Retardant
Sanding & Sueding
Mercerization
Fulling Flocking
Burn-out
Beetling
Plissé
Shearing
Stiffening
Routine Finishes
• Routine finishes are typically required to prepare woven and knitted
fabrics for dyeing and printing
1. Desizing – removal of protective starch coating
2. Scouring – cleaning
3. Bleaching – whitening
7. Calendering – pressing
■ Objectives of Calndering:
1. To upgrade the fabric hand and to impart a smooth silky
touch to the fabric
2. To improve opacity of fabric
3. To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness.
4. To impart the different degree of luster to the fabric.
5. To reduce yarn slippage
● Moiré and imitation moiré print finishes are used for drapery,
upholstered furniture, accent cushions, and formal dresses.
● Less expensive plain weave fabrics are printed with a moiré pattern to
reduce cost.
Calendering - Glazed and Ciré
Glazing is produced by applying starch, wax, or resin prior to passing
the fabric through very smooth rollers moving at high speed. The
rollers add luster by flattening the fabric surface. The finish is
temporary with starch or wax, and durable with resin.
o Glazed finishes are used for woven cotton fabrics. The level of
gloss or shine varies.
o Examples: glazed chintz and polished cotton
Calendering - Glazed and Ciré
● Ciré finishes are used for fabrics woven with thermoplastic fibers
(silk, rayon, nylon etc). Wax is applied on the fabric and then it is
passed through high-speed, heated rollers that soften and polish
the surface, creating a “glossy appearance.”
o Ciré means "wax" in French.
o Ciré is used for items such as backpacks, sleeping bags, and
outerwear.
face
back
Calendering-Schreining
■ One of the steel cylinders of the
calendar is engraved with fine
diagonal lines ()
■ This produces smooth fabrics with
soft luster
■ Threads become flat when pressed
and little lines in them which cause
fabric to reflect the light.
■ Fabric has the high lustre
■ Schreiner mercerized cotton fabrics
give the nearest resemblance to silk
Abrasive Finishes - Napping
● Napping is a mechanical finish where wire hooks are used to pull fibers
from low twist yarns to produce a raised fabric surface.
o Fabric can be napped on one or both sides of the fabric.
o Napped fabrics can be produced only with spun yarns as fiber ends
cannot be pulled from filament yarns.
Magnified view
Abrasive Finishes - Napping
● Worsted flannel, used for suits and coats, is made by napping fabrics
woven with worsted wool.
face back
Abrasive Finishes - Napping
● Outing flannel is a soft, cotton plain or twill weave fabric napped on
both sides for sleepwear, children’s clothes, and men’s cold weather
shirts.
face back
Abrasive Finishes - Napping
● Flannelette is a soft, cotton plain weave fabric napped on one side
for pajamas, sheets, and diapers.
face back
Abrasive Finishes - Napping
● Fleece is produced by napping weft knit fabrics such as French terry.
Safety Fire-resistant/
flame retardant finish
related
Sanforization/
Anti-microbial Biological Zero finish/
finish control Stabilization Shrinkage control
Wash n wear/
Water repellent/water proof Drip dry finish
Shape &
Hydrophilic finish Comfort appearance Stain and soil resistant
Softening related finish
Anti static finish retention Non-slip finish
Fragrance finish Anti-pilling finish
Mechanism of
shrinking and pre-
shrunk fabrics
Concept of finishing
UNIT 2 of wool, rayon,
polyester, organdy
and silk fabrics
General chemical
finishes
Sanforization/Shrinkage
control finish
■ To avoid fabric shrinkage later, shrinking of gray fabrics is carried out
■ Water proof
– a permanent finish
– fabric is coated or laminated with a film of natural or
synthetic rubber or plastic such as Vinyl (PVC) or
Polyurethane (PU).
– Allows no water to penetrate, but is uncomfortable as it
traps moisture next to the body
– provides protection from all condition of wet weathers.
– Used in Waterproof tents, bags, raincoats etc.
Water repellent finish
Water repellent finishes resist absorption and penetration of water for a
given period of time depending upon the time and force of the water
After some time, water may pass through even a water repellent fabric
Porous and breathable fabrics
made of extremely thin laminate (0.001 inch) of Teflon (Poly tetra
fluoroethylene)
Used in Heavy duty, foul weather clothing’s, special military protective
clothing, rain wear, ski wear, golf suits, sports footwear linings, hospital
drapes, mattress, tarpaulins, tents and sleeping bag covers, umbrella,
shower curtain
Resistance to Resistance to
Chemicals used
washing dry-cleaning
Non-durable finishes Paraffin wax- Aluminium acetate emulsion No No
• Sunlight
• Naphthalene balls, para dichloro benzene
• Fluorine containing substances such as
1. Sodium fluoride
2. Aluminium fluoride
3. Potassium fluoride
4. Sodium antimony fluoride.
• Using soluble solvents such as
1. Dichloro Beneze
2. Sulphomethylamid
3. Dichloro Trichloro ethane
■ Suitable for fabrics made from animal derived materials like wool/wool
blends, fur, silk, feathers and leather
■ Semi durable finish
MOTH-
PROOF
FINISH
Anti-mildew finish
1 There must be 25% oxygen present in the atmosphere to burn the fibre.
Areas where Fire Retardant fabrics are used
Used as apparel
Flame retardant (FR) finish
■ Fabrics cannot be made absolutely fire proof but they can be treated to
retard flammability. They do not propagate the flame and are self
extinguishing
■ How is it done?
1. Use of Inorganic materials (Asbestos, Glass etc.)
2. Through chemical treatment with FR chemicals (containing
phosphorous or chlorinated hydrocarbons) Through modification of the
polymer
■ THPC (Tetra Hydroxymethyl Phosphonium Chloride). THPC could be
applied to cotton, paper, plastic, paint, furniture, and other building
materials. The chemical inhibit or suppress the combustion process
Process of application
■ Why is it done?
1. Garments tend to cling
2. Chances of electric shock are there
■ How it is done?
1. By increasing the surface conductivity of fabric by addition of hydrophilic
compounds to the surface
2. By generating charge opposite to the one present in the fabric
■ Application method
– Pad-Dry-Cure
■ Eg. Antistat Poly Propelene (5-10 g/l concentration) is used for Polyester
2. Prussian blue
3. Aniline blue
Optical brightening: Mechanism of Bluing
Optical brightening: FBA’s
■ FBA is a colorless compound which does not absorb light in the visible
region and hence reflects all the visible radiation incident on it.
■ However, it absorbs some UV rays from sunlight and emit these. This
emitted light has a majority of blue light and hence adds on to the
reflected light, which was deficient in blue light, thus restoring the balance
of different colors and producing a brilliant white color/effect.
Yellowed
Fabric/ Perfectly
FBA’s
Off-white white fabric
fabric
Optical brightening
Electromagnetic Spectrum
Glue Soyabean
• How is it done?
The softening agents gets absorbed on the fibres from the final rinse
Few softeners are: Cationic compounds like quaternary ammonium salts, alkyloamides,
imidazolium salts etc.
Assignment 01
To be submitted and presented on Wednesday Presentation format