4.

4 Neckline Facings
A facing is the fabric used to finish raw edges of a garment at such locations as neck,
armhole and front and back opening. There are three categories of facings: Shaped
facings, extended facings and bias facings.
A facing is shaped to fit the edge it will finish, either during cutting or just before
application. A "shaped facing" is cut out, using a pattern, to the same shape and on the
same grain as the edge it will finish. A "bias facing" is a strip of fabric cut on the bias so
that it can be shaped to match the curve of the edge it will be applied to. After a facing is
attached to the garments edge, it is turned to the inside of the garment and should not
show on the outside.
In order to reduce bulk, both shaped and bias facings can be cut from a fabric lighter in
weight than the garment fabric. As the extended facing is cut as one with the garment,
garment and facing fabric are always the same but some times may vary according to the
design.
NECK LINES

BIAS BINDING BIAS FACING SHAPED FACING

4.4.1 Bias Strip

Bias strip is prepared as a strip of matching or contrasting fabric. In construction it is
used to conceal, finish and strengthen seams and raw edges or as a substitute for facings.
Bias may be used as decorative binding, piping, or tubing. Bias for binding, piping and
tubing is a true bias and is defined as the diagonal line established by a 45° degree angle,
intersecting length and cross grain of a square. The bias of the fabric offers the maximum
stretch, flexibility , and elasticity needed to conform to a curved edge.
Bias may be self-prepared, specially manufactured for industry, or commercially
prepared and purchased in retail stores.
Commercially prepared, pre-cut and folded bias bindings are also known as bias tape or
"bias fold" they are available in a variety of width and placement of bias selected depends
on:
 _ Style and design of garment
_ Type of garment
_ Use of garment
_ Care of garment
_ Choice of fabric
_ Method of construction
_ Availability of machines and attachments
_ Procedures for production

4.4.2 Preparation of Bias Strip

Steps of construction
_ First of all find the true bias of the fabric by folding fabric with lengthwise grain
parallel to the crosswise grain. The fold edge is the true bias.
_ After locating true bias, draw the width and the desired number of strips needed for
desired length of bias and then cut it.
_ Many times the bias stripes are not long enough to complete a continuous sewing
step. Adequate number of strips must be joined before starting to sew bias binding
or facing. Now Place the cut out bias strips at right angles, right side facing right
side.
_ Stitch bias strips with a ¼" seam allowance at angles.
_ Continue to join bias strips as needed for the desired length. Press all seams open
and snip extended points.
Once the strip is ready it can be applied on the neckline

4.4.3 Neckline Finished with Bias Binding/Extended Facing

Bias binding is used to finish and strengthen raw edges and also to add a decorative trim
to garment. In some case it may replace a facing at the neckline, sleeve or armhole edges.
A standard bias strip is 1 to ½ inch wide is required (either in the same or contrasting
colour of the garment). A commercially prepared double fold bias tape can also be used.
Steps of Construction
_ Place the garment on sewing table wrong side up. Now place the bias strip on the
garment with right side facing wrong side (of garment), matching both the raw
edges.
B Stitch with a ¼" seam allowance.
B Fold the bias strip over ¼" and press down.
B Fold bias binding over along stitch line and press down.
B Fold bias strip over Wrong Side of garment just covering first stitch line.
B Slip stitch along the edge of bias binding.

Right side
fabric Wrong side Right side
strip fabric
Right side
strip

Step -1 Step -4

Right side Wrong side

fabric Right side
fabric
strip
Wrong side
strip

Step -2 Step -5

Right side
strip

Right side
fabric
Hand hemming
1/4” Wrong side
Wrong side fabric
strip

Step -3 Step -6
4.4.4 Neckline Finished With Bias Facing
A bias facing is a strip of fabric cut on the bias, which is attached to the garment neckline
so that it can be shaped to match the curve of the edge it will be applied to. After a facing is
attached to the garment, it is turned to the inside of the garment and should not show on
the outside i.e. right side of the garment. (To make bias strip refer steps of construction
for the preparation of bias strip)
The finished width of bias facing should not be more than ½".
Steps Of Construction
_ Face right side of bias strip to the right side of the garment neckline. When applying
the binding, fold back the starting end ½" and align the fold with the garment seam
line. Pin binding in place and stitch to within 3" of starting point.
_ Trim away excess binding at this end to ½" beyond fold of starting end. Lap this end
over the beginning fold and stitch the rest of the way across, through all
thicknesses. When the binding as turned, the end folded first will be on top; stitch
or slip stitch it with the other end.
_ Clip the curved seam allowance.
_ Open the facing away from the garment Press all seam allowances towards the
facing. To keep facing from rolling to outside of garments, the seam should be under
stitched with facing and seam allowance extended away from garment. Stitch from
right side close to neck seam line, through facing and seam allowance.
_ Turn the other edge of the facing towards its wrong side. Press and slip stitch.

Clip the
Lapped edge Curved
edge

Right Side Right Side

Garment Garment

Wrong side Wrong side

bias facing bias facing

Step -1 Step -2
 Clip the
curved edge
Lapped edge

Right Side
Garment
Right side Edge stitch
fabric
Right side
facing
Wrong side
bias facing
Lapped edge

Step -3 Step -4

Right side facing

Wrong side
garment

Right side
fabric

Step -5

4.4.5 Neck Line Finished With Shaped Facing

A neck line shape which is finished with shaped facing i.e. instead of finishing raw edges
of fabric at neckline with bias strip as used earlier, it is finished with a facing which is of
the same shape as the neckline.

Steps of Construction
_ Interface the wrong side of the facing of both front back.
_ With right side together and the markings on matched seam, the front facing
sections to the back facing sections at shoulders. Press seam flat as stitched then
open.
_ Keeping seam allowances open, tailor edge finish the facing by turning under 1/8"
press. Stitch close to folded edge.
_ Right side together, matching, notches, markings and seam lines, pin facing to neck
and machine.
_ Trim diagonally across cross seam allowances at shoulders. Clip curved seams, also
slash the opening at front neckline and clip the corners.
_ Place seam wrong side up, using the tip of the iron press seam open.
_ Turn facing to inside of garment, allowing seam line to roll inside slightly, now top
stitch at a distance of ¼".

Steps of Construction
Preparation of facing

Wrong side
Back neck Facing

Wrong side
front neck Facing

Step -1

Right side
Back neck Facing

Wrong side
front neck Facing

Tailor edge stitch

Step -2 Step -3
 Steps of Construction

Wrong side Wrong side

front neck facing front neck facing
Right Side Garment Right Side Garment

Step -4 Step -5

Steps of Construction

Wrong side Wrong side

front neck facing front neck facing
Right Side Garment Right Side Garment

Step -4 Step -5

Top Stitching at 1/4”

Right Side Garment

Step -6