Vineyard & Farm Stay

Wine & food.

Grown by us.
naturally Tuscan.
Farm: Ribusuoli, Montalcino, Siena, Tuscany
Email: [email protected]
Shop: 50 Market Place, Burnham Market, Norfolk PE31 8HF
Email: [email protected] (+44) 01328 730856
Instagram: @tuscanfarmshop
 WELCOME!

Welcome to the 2023 edition of

the Italia! Tuscany Guide from the
publishers of Italia! magazine –
116 pages of the very best travel
inspiration, advice and itineraries to
make the most of your next trip to
this much-loved region of Italy.
Steeped in culture, Tuscany offers the independent
traveller a wealth of destinations: with tranquil corners
away from the tourist trail, as well as familiar city hotspots
like Florence and Pisa. In colour-coded sections, you’ll
find recommendations for where to stay and eat, serene
country getaways, top attractions, as well as our pick of
Tuscany’s favourite gardens, festivals and beauty spots,
plus a celebration of the region’s food traditions.
Whether you’re seeking a restful retreat, a city break,
a cultural tour or an island vacation, there’s plenty of
expert travel inspiration here. And when you’re back
home, why not share your trip by dropping us a line at
[email protected] or sending in a photo?
Buon viaggio!

Amanda Robinson Editor

Cover image – Siena © Getty
This image © Getty

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tuscany & florence 2023

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TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 3

 40 66
48

34 82
in your guide
DAYS OUT IN TUSCANY FLORENCE 82 SAN GIMIGNANO
How San Gimignano’s downfall became
6 WHAT’S ON IN TUSCANY 48 48 HOURS IN FLORENCE
its architectural salvation
A year of Tuscan festival and events Freya Middleton explores the heart of this
illustrious Renaissance city 84 SAN GALGANO ABBEY
8 TOP 10 BEAUTY SPOTS IN TUSCANY
Could this ancient place hold the secret to
Great days out in Tuscany 54 TOP 10 FLORENCE MUSEUMS
the origins of the Arthurian legend?
With some of the world’s most impressive
10 TOP 10 GARDENS IN TUSCANY
museums housed on the streets of 86 HIKING IN CASENTINO
Explore Tuscany’s finest green spaces
Florence, here are our favourites Rachael Martin finds peace and quiet in
Tuscany’s Casentino National Park
57 NEW FLORENCE
NORTH TUSCANY
Chris Allsop discovers the delights of 92 SATURNIA THERMAE
14 48 HOURS IN LUNIGIANA off-season Florence starting at the Duomo The Maremma’s Cascate del Mulino are fed
Mario Matassa discovers panoramic vistas, by hot spring waters says Jon Palmer
63 CASA GUIDI
ancient castles and fabulous food
Elizabeth and Robert Browning lived and 94 48 HOURS IN PORTOFERRAIO
20 48 HOURS IN VIAREGGIO wrote here reveals Joe Gartman Jane Gifford heads across the water to
Heather Crombie spends a long weekend spend a weekend in Elba’s capital
66 FINDING FIESOLE
in this vibrant coastal town
Fiesole off ers a splendid day away from the
28 48 HOURS IN LUCCA bustle of Florence says Freya Middleton FOOD & LIVING
Marina Spironetti on this northern city
of ancient ramparts and its many towers SOUTH TUSCANY 102 LIVING IN TUSCANY
Fleur Kinson’s regional guide
34 48 HOURS IN PISA
to finding your dream home
There’s so much more to the city 74 TOP 10 VAL D’ORCIA
of Pisa than its famous leaning tower Find out more about the beauty of this 108 TUSCANY ON A PLATE
says Heather Crombie gilded valley in southern Tuscany Wanda Djebbar explains just what makes
Tuscan produce and cuisine so special
40 BEES OF TUSCANY 76 CORTONA
Amy McPherson visits a sustainable Rachael Martin explores the changed life 114 THE LAST BITE
paradise for bees at Borgo Pignano of this Tuscan hilltop town Cantucci are an authentic taste of Tuscany

4 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 TU SU
RN & SBSCR
TO AV IBE
PA E!
GE
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94
108

102

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 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

CALENDAR OF FESTIVALS
THE CAVALCADE CARNIVAL IN
OF THE MAGI VIAREGGIO
ACROSS TUSCANY JANUARY 6 VIAREGGIO FEBRUARY-MARCH
TUSCANY Calendar of Festivals

January 6 is the Feast of the Epiphany Taking place over an entire month with
and in Florence the celebration five days of processions, this carnival
involves a grand parade in magnificent occurs during daylight hours, when
costumes that symbolises the arrival of parades draw thousands of visitors of
the Three Wise Men. More than 500 all ages, with everybody in costume.
participants join in the celebration With booming music playing, masked
– knights, soldiers, ladies and lords, groups of dancers and highly-artistic
drummers, flag-throwers and a live floats compete against each other in a
nativity including farm animals, carnival that is second only to Venice.
all march down the streets among The first Viareggio Carnvial was held in
thousands of onlookers, as children 1873 and every year since has only got
attend in the hope of receiving treats bigger as huge crowds of people flock
from La Befana. to witness the incredible spectacle.

GIUOCO DEL CALCIO

FIORENTINO
FLORENCE 24 JUNE
This is the famous Florentine
traditional football match played
on sand that dates back to the
Renaissance and sees teams from
each of the four city quarters
participating. There are 27 players
per team, each dressed in medieval
breeches. It tends to get a bit rowdy
and sometimes violent, especially as
there are effectively no rules to the
game, so anything is allowed in order
to gain control of the ball, including
the use of both hands and feet.

PALIO IN SIENA BRAVÌO DELLE BOTTI

SIENA 2 JULY & 16 AUGUST MONTEPULCIANO
The most important event in the LAST SUNDAY OF AUGUST
Sienese calendar sees the 17 contrade An exciting competition between
(neighbourhoods) challenge each the town’s eight contrade, this sees
other in a passionate horse race in the the race to win the Bravìo, the
Piazza del Campo. Everybody born painted cloth banner that depicts
in Siena automatically belongs to one the city’s patron saint, Saint John
of 17 contrade and remains loyal to it the Baptist. Contestants push huge
throughout their lives. With a history wine barrels for a kilometre uphill
dating back to the 6th century, this along Montepulciano’s narrow streets.
is a lively, fast-paced event with an Various parades and events take place
incredible atmosphere that draws huge throughout the day with each contrada
crowds from all over the world. There marching through the street dressed in
is free entry to the standing area if you historical costume. For more info,
arrive early enough. visit www.braviodellebotti.com

6 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 Whenever you choose to visit Tuscany, you’ll find plenty of enthralling events
and festivals taking place. Here are some of the best…

SCOPPIO DEL CARRO PALIO DI SAN RANIERI

FLORENCE EASTER SUNDAY PISA 17 JUNE
Meaning ‘Explosion of the Cart’ in Taking place on the day of Saint

TUSCANY Calendar of Festivals

English, a 500-year-old, 30-foot high Ranieri, the patron saint of Pisa,
cart is hauled by a team of white oxen, the city’s four districts compete in a
escorted by 150 soldiers, musicians two kilometre boat race, with each
and people in 15th century dress, on boat containing eight oarsmen, on
the morning of Easter Sunday. The the River Arno. The night before
cart is loaded with fireworks, while a sees the famous Luminara, in which
wire, stretching to the high altar inside Pisans hang thousands of candles
the Duomo Cathedral, is fitted with from the buildings along the river.
a mechanical dove. The Cardinal of Come midnight, thousands of locals
Florence lights a fuse inside the dove, crowd along the banks of the Arno
which speeds through the church to to watch the magnificent fireworks
Image © ENIT

ignite the fireworks in the cart. Success display. The most recent race saw
augurs a good harvest. 20,000 attendees.

GIOSTRA DEL SARACINO

(JOUST OF THE
SARACEN)
AREZZO, TUSCANY 3RD SATURDAY IN
JUNE & 1ST SUNDAY IN SEPTEMBER
The whole of the city turns up in
medieval costume to recreate the
atmosphere of medieval Arezzo as the
quarters compete against each other
in a joust to win the Golden Lance.
Eight knights from each quarter gallop
on horseback towards the Buratto, an
armour-plated dummy holding a shield
Image © iStock

Image © iStock

divided into sectors according to points.

The tournament starts at 9.30pm after a
flag-throwing demonstration.

LA FESTA DELLA CHESTNUT FESTIVAL

RIFICOLONA MARRADI THROUGHOUT OCTOBER
FLORENCE 7 SEPTEMBER For centuries, chestnuts were a
Said to be one of Florence’s oldest staple food of the inhabitants of the
festivals, the vibrant Festival of the middle hills and mountains. There
Paper Lanterns reputedly originates in are chestnut festivals across Italy in
the most important farmers’ market of October, but the festival of Marradi
the year in commemoration of the eve is significant as their chestnuts are
of the birth of the Virgin Mary. There is said to be particularly delicious. With
an evening parade through the streets, artists, musicians and attractions for
led by a band, street performers and children lining the streets, the festival
food vendors, with children carrying also incorporates chestnut recipes
paper lanterns lit with candles, and with jams, cakes and chestnut ravioli.
travels from Piazza Santa Felicita to A nice little touch is that people can
Image © iStock

Piazza SS. Annunziata, passing through arrive at Marradi by steam trains that
Piazza della Signoria. connect to Florence.
Dates correct for 2023. Every effort has been made to present accurate information but event details are subject to change. If you plan to attend, do check events are going ahead before you travel.

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 7

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
TOP 10 Beauty Spots in Tuscany

BEAUTY SPOTS
Tuscany is rightly recognised as being one of the world’s
most beautiful regions – here we highlight ten of our
favourite destinations that justify this claim…

1 BAGNO VIGNONI HOT

SPRINGS, VAL D’ORCIA

Image © Marina Spironetti

While traditional towns may have a

main town square in their centre, in
Bagno Vignoni it is simply a huge
thermal pool. Although this one can
not be used, just steps away is the
Parco dei Mulini for those who wish
to take a dip in the thermal waters.
Bagno Vignoni became a halting 2 MICHELANGELO’S DAVID, on display at the Accademia Gallery.
and refreshment point in Etruscan FLORENCE Incredibly realistic looking, with its
times for the numerous pilgrims The most famous statue in the tense neck and veins bulging out of
on their way to Rome, when it was world, no trip to Florence would be his right hand, the twist of David’s
used both for personal hygiene and complete without a visit to see this body conveys to the viewer that he
curing illnesses. A stunning beauty iconic figure. Standing at an amazing is in motion, with his eyes looking
spot, the water is heated from 17 foot tall, this statue of biblical hero towards Rome. A visit to see the
underneath by the Earth’s crust. David, one of the most recognised David is guaranteed to be something
works of Renaissance sculpture, is you will never forget.

8 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 7 DANIEL SPOERRI SCULPTURE

Image © iStock
3 CHIANTI GARDEN, MAREMMA
While some people know Chianti as a type of wine, it is better This garden in the Maremma region
known for being a stunning town between Florence and Siena. of Tuscany is different to your usual
Its steeply rolling hills, terraced with vineyards and olive groves, style of garden, in that it houses 100 art
broken castles and bustling market towns have made the region installations of various media, from
so popular with the English it is affectionately referred to entire rooms reconstructed in bronze

TOP 10 Beauty Spots in Tuscany

as Chiantishire. The 14th century hamlet of Montefioralle with an open ceiling in the middle of
sits above Chianti’s capital of Greve, consisting of a single the woods, to landscape art that takes
circular street, two churches and views over the valley. particular advantage of the landscape
and view from the garden. New works
are added each year to make this garden
4 ELBA ISLAND 5 BASILICA DI a worthwhile visit for something different
Just six miles off the Tuscan coast SANTA CROCE, FLORENCE to explore, with spectacular panoramic
is the island of Elba. Roughly the The Basilica of the Holy Cross views of the surrounding area.
size of the Isle of Wight, it has more is the burial site of some of the
than 150 beaches and remains green most illustrious Italians in history, 8 THE UFFIZI, FLORENCE

throughout the year, regardless of the such as Michelangelo and Galileo, Originally the uffizi, or offices, of the
season. With a beautiful harbour and making it known as the Temple of ruling Medici family, this museum is
stunning flower gardens, paths around the Italian Glories. As the largest the ultimate primer of the Renaissance,
the shore lead to secretive spots where Franciscan church in the world, it is housing the works of Leonardo da Vinci,
sunbathers lie across the boulders. also the richest medieval church in Botticelli and Michelangelo. As one of
Taking a cable car to the summit at Florence, with stunning frescoes and the most popular tourist attractions in
3,343 feet, you can see other islands architecture. At the rear is the Scuola Florence, the Uffizi museum has more
in the Tuscan archipelago, including del Cuoio, which offers high-quality than 1,700 works on display and more
Montecristo and Pianosa. artisan bags and leather items. than 1,400 in storage, although there are
plans to increase the size of the museum
so that some of these holdings can be
put on display. Its beautifully intricate
architecture makes this a must-visit for
anybody coming to Florence.

Image by Rachel Beckwith

9 DUOMO DI SIENA, SIENA

This magnificent Gothic cathedral in Siena is

2 5 8 full of late Gothic sculpture, early Renaissance
painting and baroque design. One of the best
3 examples of Gothic style in all of Italy, all of
its 59 floor panels are visible in early autumn,
9 and some of them are visible all year round.
These panels were created
1 by Siena’s top artists from
6
4 1372 to 1547, including
Matteo di Giovanni. The
10
cathedral was largely built
7
by, among others, Nicola
Pisano, famed as the Italian
founder of modern sculpture.

6 MONTALCINO, SIENA architecture. Known today as the home 10 SATURNIA HOT SPRINGS, SATURNIA

This small town with its population of one of the world’s greatest wines, One of Tuscany’s famed thermal centres, Saturnia
of just over 5,000 is situated high on the Brunello di Montalcino, the town has remote origins. Dedicated to the god Saturn,
a hill covered with olive groves and encompasses nearly 24,000 square legend declares it to be the oldest city on the
the famous Brunello vineyards that hectares, half of which are covered in peninsula. With waterfalls that rush into pools
dominate the Asso, Ombrone and characteristic Mediterranean marshes, etched into travertine rock over the centuries
Arbia valleys. On the highest point native grasses and forest. Perfect for a to create a natural spa, the water is kept at a
of the hill is the fortress, whish is quiet retreat amid the most beautiful consistent 37 degrees centigrade and contains
an outstanding example of military of surroundings. sulphur and other healing minerals.

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 9

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

TOP 10 GARDENS
TOP 10 Gardens in Tuscany

If you’re ready for some fresh

air, why not step outside into
nature’s green room and take
in the splendour and beauty
of Tuscany’s most fragrant
gardens…
Image by Mario Matassa

1 GIARDINO DI BOBOLI

Piazza Pitti, Florence

www.uffizi.it/giardino-boboli/
The area behind the Pitti Palace is the setting
for the stunning Boboli Gardens. Designed
for the Medici there are several hectares of 2 VILLA TORRIGIANI other main attraction is the
park, with the original garden being created DI CAMIGLIANO sunken Giardino di Flora – a
for Duke Cosimo and his wife Eleonora of Via del Gomberaio 3, wonderful example of a 17th-
Toledo in 1550, and becoming Florence’s most Camigliano century garden with grottoes,
admired gardens. The natural amphitheatre www.villeepalazzilucchesi.it secret passages, parterres and
and the rest of the gardens were developed Situated in the hamlet of water games. It is the site of
over the next 100 years and they are full of Camigliano near Lucca, Villa an elaborate set of water jets
stunning vistas, beautiful sculptures and Torrigiani leads visitors to its – giochi d’acqua – that would
exquisite fountains. The Boboli entry ticket gardens along a magnificent chase the unwary guest from
also includes access to the gardens of Villa avenue of cypress trees one part of the garden to
Bardini 3 – find out more on opposite page. and fountains in the grand another. Open from March
style of Versailles. The to November.

10 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 3 GIARDINO BARDINI

Image © iStock
Villa Bardini, with entry on 5 VILLA MEDICI AT FIESOLE

Via dei Bardi and Costa San Via Beato Angelico, 2 www.villegiardinimedicei.it
Giorgio, Florence Built during the 15th century for Cosimo di Medici (the elder)
www.villabardini.it these spectacular gardens overlook Florence and offer excellent
This peaceful park sits between views from the hillside terraces and lawns. The villa is one of the oldest
the Piazzale Michelangelo and the Renaissance residences with a garden, and is very well preserved. By prior arrangement,
Boboli Gardens. A palazzo with a spend all day exploring these breathtaking landscapes and the nearby Gamberaia and
walled garden, and a steep terraced Le Balze – horticultural and architectural treats gathered together.

TOP 10 Gardens in Tuscany

slope, the gardens date back as
far as the 14th century and rise
above the city to afford fabulous 6 CASTELLO DI CELSA 8 VILLA GARZONI
views, with beds full of wisteria, SP 101 di Montemaggio, Sovicille Piazza della Vittoria 1, Collodi,
hydrangeas and scented roses. www.castellodicelsa.com near Lucca
Enter these gardens with the same The 13th-century castle of Celsa www.pinocchio.it
ticket as for the Boboli Gardens, so near Siena boasts extensive gardens, Historic 18th-century Giardino Garzoni
you can take in the steep Baroque once fallen into decline, but now is an elegant combination of elements,
flight of steps designed by Giulio restored to their former glory. giving the visitor plenty to marvel at.
Mozzi, the centrepiece of the Not only are there the delightful Water features, flights of steps, grottoes,
gardens, and the terraces planted formal gardens to admire but also statues and much more combine to
with olive trees. Other features there are houses on the estate that form these gorgeous Baroque gardens.
include a Chinese water garden, you can rent, which means you can Once again they demonstrate that a
statues and a long fountain wall take time to enjoy this marvellous complicated natural site on a hillside can
decorated with mosaics. location to the full. be transformed into something fabulous.
Also included is a double ramp of steps
with a special hydraulic system to supply
water features.

9 VILLA LA FOCE

Strada della Vittoria,

Chianciano Terme, Siena
www.lafoce.com
7 One of the most celebrated gardens in Italy
2 8 4 5 is La Foce, a collaboration between English
1 10 architect Cecil Pinsent, also known for
3 Villa Le Balze, and writer Iris Origo.
Created during the 1920s and 1930s.
The house is surrounded by a formal
Italian garden with Pinsent setting up the
6
architectural aspects that Origo then filled
9 with plants, with spectacular views over
Val d’Orcia and Monte Amiata.
Image © iStock

10 VILLA

GAMBERAIA
Via del Rossellino 72,
4 VILLA LE BALZE 7 PARCO MEDICEO Settignano, Florence
Via Vecchia Fiesolana 26, Fiesole DI PRATOLINO, www.villagamberaia.com
www.villalebalze.georgetown.edu/ VILLA DEMIDOFF This classic Renaissance garden
American philosopher Charles Via Fiorentina 282, Vaglia is one of several clustered around Florence. On
Augustus Strong bought land www.villegiardinimedicei.it the hills of Settignano, the villa affords panoramic
in Fiesole in 1911 and Cecil Not much of the gardens here views of the city and the Arno Valley. The gardens
Pinsent designed the landscaped survived demolition in 1820, were badly damaged at the end of World War
gardens. The villa now belongs but rising out of the ornamental Two, but have been restored to exquisite beauty.
to Georgetown University. Steep lily pond is the Colossus of the These formal gardens with grottoes, nymphaeum,
terraced gardens offer intriguing Apennines statue by Giambologna. cypress avenue and more are a must to visit. Easily
perspectives. Find out more about There are also lawns, woods, reached by bus from Florence
Fiesole and Villa Le Balze on p66. grottoes and huge plane trees.

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 11

Welcome to NORTH TUSCANY

The beachside carnival

town of Viareggio

12 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 LUNIGIANA p14

Welcome to NORTH TUSCANY

VIAREGGIO p20
p28 LUCCA

PISA p34

BORGO PIGNANO p40

THE NORTH
Discover the remote corners, iconic hotspots and rural beauty
of northern Tuscany, its carnivals and musical heritage

p14 p20

p28 p40

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 13

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in the Lunigiana

Clockwise, from
top left:
Early morning
view from
Podere Benelli
Mulazzo, the
town of book
dealers
Making testaroli
The skyline of
Pontremoli
Attention to
detail at Orazio’s
agriturismo
The Antica
Pasticceria degli
Svizzeri shop,
next door to the
café

14 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in the Lunigiana
48 HOURS IN…

Lunigiana
Mario Matassa stays in Pontremoli to explore the intriguing
area that sits between Liguria and Tuscany – a land of
panoramic vistas, ancient castles and fabulous food

T
he Lunigiana – literally, ‘land of the moon’ – takes its
name from the ancient Etruscan settlement of Luni, which
prospered and became an important centre during Roman
times. Despite repeated sackings, first by the Barbarians
and later by the Normans and then the Saracens, remnants
of the old town, which was constructed almost entirely from the local
Carrara marble, survived – albeit not altogether intact – and are still being
excavated. It is claimed that the name Luni refers to the moon, the beauty
of which is enhanced when framed against the jagged backdrop of the
white-peaked Apuan Alps and the towering Apennines. Others in the area
claim that the area was once populated by a sect of moon worshippers.
There’s no evidence to support this claim, however, it does not pass
unnoticed that the current-day symbol of the Lunigiana is a crescent
moon held in the claw of a bear.
Crazy sects, myths and legends aside, the Lunigiana is, to my mind,
Images by Mario Matassa

the most scenically spectacular region that Tuscany has to offer. The area
descends from the Cisa, Cerreto and Carpinelli Apennine passes down
to the mouth of the Magra River, falling in part within the province of
La Spezia in Liguria but mostly within the region of Massa Carrara in
Tuscany. The Lunigiana is not the Tuscany of rolling hills, cypress trees

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 15

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO STAY
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in the Lunigiana

PODERE BENELLI 1
Località Oppilo, Pontremoli
www.poderebenelli.it
Podere Benelli is everything an
agriturismo should be. Once the current
owner’s father’s home, most rooms have
breathtaking views over the Apuan Alps.
For Orazio, the owner, the agriturismo is
a labour of love. He cures his own lard,
has his own flock of sheep, makes his own
wine, cheese and olive oil and forages in
the forest for the perfect ingredients for
a pie. If you want to stay in a charming
stone farmhouse and get a real taste of
the Lunigiana, look no further.
Double room from €60
AGRITURISMO COSTA D’ORSOLA 2
Località Orsola, Pontremoli
The town of Pontremoli from
www.costadorsola.it the vineyards above
A group of converted cottages make up
the main building of this characteristic
agriturismo just five minutes’ drive from DON’T MISS and olive groves. In fact, such is the SLOW FOOD AND
the motorway exit. There are 14 large, contrast with the tourist stereotype TRADITIONS
HONEY
bedrooms and plenty of magnificent that whenever locals leave the area It’s not the first time I’ve been to
The Lunigiana is
views. The evening meal is served at often credited on a day trip, they still speak about Pontremoli. In fact, being an avid
8pm and though there is no choice, the with having the
two chefs are more than capable when it
‘going to Tuscany’. The landscape, mushroom picker, I visit the area
best honey in culture, history, traditions and fairly often – so, when I was invited
comes to local specialities. Italy. There are
Double room from €120 two particular
even cuisine of the Lunigiana are to visit in the early autumn, it was
types, both of quite distinct from other parts hard to contain my enthusiasm.
B&B IL VIANDANTE 3 of the region. A picture postcard Fiercely proud of the Lunigiana
which have been
Via Porta Parma 72 awarded DOP with a difference, the Lunigiana is and its traditions, my host Orazio
www.ilviandante.eu status – chestnut a breathtaking, dramatic fairytale and his wife had started cooking
Offering the ‘wanderer’ a warm welcome, honey and acacia
this modest B&B is situated a short walk
land of castles, ancient villages, earlier that day. He’d invited
honey. The clean
from the historic centre of Pontremoli. air and long
Romanesque churches, towering Marco Cavellini, president of the
Small, with just a handful of rooms, it tradition of mountains, forests, valleys and old provincial chapter of Slow Food, to
is quiet, clean and comfy. An excellent bee-keeping in stone bridges. join us for dinner.
choice if you need a base to stay and visit the Lunigiana Speaking of which, I was The meal itself was perfect
the surrounding area as it’s also close to combine to staying just outside Pontremoli, testament to Lunigiana cuisine.
the rail station. There’s also a generous ensure that the a city that derives its name – A range of homemade salumi –
area’s honey
breakfast available to set you up for a full ‘Trembling Bridge’ – from the thinly sliced, melt-in-the-mouth
is unique in
day of exploring the Lunigiana.
flavour and of
Italian words ponte (bridge) and lardo, wild boar salami and a local
Double room from €55 tremare (to tremble). The town’s mortadella sausage – was followed
consistently high
PODERE BRAMAPANE 4 quality. first settlement is believed to have by a wild herb pie, mushroom
Cargalla, Case Sparsa, 24, Pontremoli been around 1000 BC. Known crostini and battered, deep-fried
www.poderebramapane.it during Roman times as Apua – no crispy wild borage leaves. That
This modestly priced B&B is ideal for doubt after the Apuan Alps – the was just the starter. The testarolo,
anyone who wants to get away from commune of Pontremoli became a pancake which is cut into pieces,
the hustle and bustle. It’s situated a free municipality in 1226 and boiled and served with a dressing
about 10km from Pontremoli, deep was subsequently controlled by of basil and olive oil, was all you’d
in the surrounding woodlands. It various aristocratic families, the expect from a dish that some food
was originally a 15th-century stone most notable being the Malaspina historians claim is a forerunner to
farmhouse, which has been beautifully
(in 1319). Control of the city pasta. A string of assorted dishes
restored. Rooms are comfortable and
charming, in keeping with the local
➤ KEY TO changed hands frequently over the followed, ending with pecorino
RESTAURANT PRICES next few centuries until 1650 when cheeses, with a chestnut flour blini
environment. If you want dinner here, (full meal per person,
a three-course meal will set you back not including wine)
it became part of the Grand Duchy and a pot of local acacia honey. The
an extra €23 per head but remember to € Up to €25 of Tuscany, remaining largely vast majority of the ingredients
book in the morning. € € €26-€50 unfettered until Italian unification for dinner were grown or made on
Double room €70 € € € More than €50 in the 19th century. the premises (including the olive

16 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 WHERE TO EAT

NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in the Lunigiana

The Benelli DA RENATO 5
agriturismo is Via della Fontana Vecchia, Località
full of traditional Guinadi, Pontremoli
charm and has +39 0187 834715
been lovingly Renato’s a man after my own heart.
renovated He lives to collect mushrooms in the
nearby chestnut woods. His wife Luciana
throws them in the pan the moment
Orazio Benelli (left) and they arrive – mushrooms don’t come
Alberto Bellotti in their fresher than this. Out of season you’ll
makeshift clubhouse have to make do with mushrooms
preserved in oil or dried – but they’re
every bit as tasty. Other dishes to try
are the roast lamb and wild boar stew.
€ €

ANTICA PASTICCERIA DEGLI SVIZZERI 6

Piazza della Repubblica 21/22,
Pontremoli
www.aichta.com
This is a Pontremoli institution, and
as the name suggests, it’s a café
oil and the wine) or, failing that, in every household in the region. DON’T MISS specialising in local pastries. However,
sourced from the nearby forests. They were used to cook everything they also serve a range of focaccia
THE BONFIRES
The following morning, from roasted meats or vegetable and panini sandwiches at lunchtime,
OF PONTREMOLI
making it the perfect place for a quick,
over breakfast, Orazio produced tarts to testaroli. Alberto is one Every year, the
parishes of light lunch. If when you arrive the
a map and started circling places of just three people left remaining front of house looks full, don’t be
of interest. But at some point in the region recognised by Slow St Nicolò and
St Geminiano put off as there’s another room at the
during the previous evening I’d Food for cooking testaroli in compete to back. Try the Amor di Pontremoli and
apparently agreed to accompany the time-honoured fashion. I’ve build the the hot chocolate.
Orazio to meet a friend. True to bought and eaten industrially biggest bonfire €
his word, an hour later we were produced testaroli from various celebrating the
OSTERIA OCA BIANCA 7
standing in an old chestnut drying supermarkets in the past. Needless medieval rivalry
between the Via Cavour 27, Pontremoli
shed, a room with blackened walls to say, they’re nothing like the real +39 0187 833219
Guelphs and
and a gaping hole in the roof. thing when it’s served fresh. the Ghibellines. This characterful, cosy restaurant
In here were six blazing fire pits, On 17 January offers honest food at good prices.
over which Alberto Bellotti was CASTLES AND BOOKSHOPS the parish of St Select from a limited menu of dishes
demonstrating the ancient art of The towns and villages of the Nicolò lights its like testaroli with pesto, or stuffed
cooking testaroli. As we entered, Lunigiana seem caught in a time fire along the ravioli. They also serve a great roast
he was manhandling a 25kg testo warp. Indeed, it’s one of the small riverbank of the cooked in a terracotta pot. The
Magra, followed
(a cast-iron griddle dish with a pleasures of this area that the restaurant only opens for lunch
by the parish of
domed lid) from the roaring flames traveller can still wander through St Geminiano on
in the week and both lunch and
with a metal hook. He poured ancient cobbled streets and not dinner at the weekend.
31 January.
€
a ladle of batter into the pan have to grapple with gangs of
then replaced the lid. Two minutes marauding tourists. Of course, LOCANDA GAVARINI 8
later he lifted a perfectly cooked it has to be said that this is not Località Mocrone, Via Benedicenti 50,

The treasures of the Lunigiana are rustic and

Villafranca in Lunigiana
locandagavarini.it
A short drive from Pontremoli,

understated, but somehow seem more real Gavarini has been managed by the
same family for almost 100 years.
The restaurant is large and comfy,
divided into little rooms. The cuisine
testarolo – about 30cm in diameter the Tuscany of artistic treasures,
is a creative take on traditional
– from the pan and added it to a the Tuscany of, say, Florence, dishes from the locality. The cazzotti
growing pile. Siena or Pisa. The treasures of the (gnocchi made with chestnut flour
The distinctive dome-shaped Lunigiana are understated and served with a sausage and onion
cast iron pan dates back, some say, rustic, yet somehow to me they sauce) are excellent.
to the Roman era. There was a seem more real. Itineraries for the € €
time when a testo could be found area abound. There’s something

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 17

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
5 3 4

WHAT TO SEE AND DO 6

the Lunigiana

A TRIP TO ZERI 9
This is a remote group of villages high
in the Apennines above Pontremoli – 7
the perfect destination to unwind and
11
HoursininLunigiana

get a breath of fresh mountain air. The

local community has ancient origins.
No one can say exactly when the small
mountainous valley was first populated
but what is obvious is that the villages
4848Hours

have remained virtually untouched for

centuries. If you stop for lunch in the
area be sure to try the local pecorino

Map data © Google 2023

cheeses and the famous Zeri lamb.
NORTH

A TOUR OF FIVIZZANO 10
9 1 2 8 10
NORTHERN TUSCANY

Starting at the Porta di Sotto, follow the

Medicean Walls to the Porta di Sopra. As
you enter town you’ll see the Museum of
Printing in the Palazzo Fantoni-Bononi.
Work your way past the aristocratic
palaces and you’ll come to Piazza Vittorio DON’T MISS in the region of 15 villages, all of bookshop – or any bookshop for
Emanuele and the Medicean Fountain MEDIEVALIS which have points of interest and that matter! – but the superb views
donated in 1683 by Cosimo III. Finally, Held every are worthy of a visit. At one point, of the Magra valley made up for
head to Verrucolo Castle, parts of which year in August for example, there were more than any disappointment.
date back to the 11th century. around the 160 castles in the area, in itself a It was late afternoon when we
castle and telltale sign of a turbulent history. finally made it into the historic
A WALK IN THE WOODS
old town of
You can’t come to the Lunigiana and not Pontremoli,
The majority have fallen into ruin, centre of Pontremoli. It’s a
go for a walk in the woods. Wherever you this medieval some are in the process of being quiet city by Italian standards,
stay, the forests won’t be far from your festival restored but there still remain 30 in with a dwindling population of
door. There are hundreds of walks with celebrates local good condition and open at various 3,600. Nestled in the shadows
detailed maps and itineraries from local history with times to the public. of the mountains, the skyline
tourist offices. Keep to the paths as the an array of We followed Orazio’s route is dominated by the dome of
forests are vast and it’s easy to get lost. street artists
and historical
starting with Fivizzano, considered the city cathedral, the Chiesa
If you come in the autumn, keep an eye
out for porcini mushrooms – although if re-enactments. the ‘Florence of the Lunigiana’. The Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta
you want to pick a few, get a day licence The town is town’s Baroque façade owes much (Il Duomo), which was built in
and show them to someone who knows swamped to an extended period of rule by the 17th century along with Il
something about mushrooms! with people in the Medici family. Unfortunately, Campanone (the bell tower). The
costume, there’s the weather did not permit our historic centre is situated between
PIAGNARO CASTLE 11 lots of flag
planned trip to the botanical a fork in the Magra River and is
www.statuestele.org waving, mock
battles, drums
gardens, but being great fans of accessible by bridge. It was said
The Castello del Piagnaro is a short walk
and music, the written word, we did get a in the middle ages that ‘He who
uphill from the centre of Pontremoli.
It gets its name from the local slate and food stalls chance to explore the museum of rules Pontremoli… is the Lord of
slabs known as piagne, and has a great
tempt with local printing that celebrates ‘Jacopo da the Lunigiana.’ Standing at the
specialities. Fivizzano’ (Loris Jacopo Bonini), gateway to the Apennines, along
view of the town and surrounding
mountains. Inside is the Museum of Stele famous, apparently, for being the the Via Francigena, the city was for
with sandstone statues which are the first person to print books with a long time a point of strategic and
most important artefacts to have been typed characters back in the 1470s. commercial importance.
excavated here, said to date from the
Copper Age to Roman times.
A TRIP ALONG THE VIA FRANCIGENA
As is typical of the Lunigiana, Pontremoli
The Via Francigena, a pilgrim route
starting in Canterbury in England, was
the main route for Christian pilgrims in
has an old-world feel and the pace of life is slow
Europe to Rome. The route crosses the After a quick lunch of pasta, and As is typical of towns in the
Apennines into the Lunigiana through keeping to the theme of books, Lunigiana, Pontremoli retains
the Cisa path, leading to Pontremoli. we took the road to the sleepy an old-world feel and the pace of
The road continues through the towns mountain village of Mulazzo, life is slow. Locals still outnumber
of Villafranca in Lunigiana and Aula known as the ‘town of book tourists here and no one seemed in
before arriving in Liguria. dealers’. We couldn’t find an open a hurry. Pontremoli’s castle,

18 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in the Lunigiana
Pontremoli, as seen from Marco Cavellini’s cellar which
the banks of the Magra dates back to medieval times

the Castello del Piagnaro, is one that we wouldn’t be able to DON’T MISS mould. I could see tears come
of the largest in the Lunigiana. experience anywhere else. Who FOOD SHOPPING to his eyes. A long-time member
It also houses the Museum of the could turn down such an offer? If you want to of Slow Food, this was obviously
Statue of Steles, late Neolithic True to his word Marco arrived take home typical a man who took his salami
stone sculptures, which for reasons 7pm on the dot and we made our Lunigiana food seriously. But as it turned out, all
uncertain were very common to way to his house in the heart of products your wasn’t lost – the other half of the
basket might
the area. Also bear in mind the the old town. As we walked, well include a
salami was perfectly fine and the
castle is perched on top of the hill Marco explained that cars were pot or two of wine, being Tuscan, more than
overlooking the city, so a good pair not permitted in the old town. the local acacia lived up to expectation.
of walking shoes is a must! It wasn’t difficult to see why. honey, some There are any number of good
Some of the town’s tiny streets cured lard (in my places to eat in town and Marco
AMOR DI PONTREMOLI were barely wide enough for a horse view every bit as had made a few recommendations
good as lardo di
By early evening, exhausted, and cart. So residents here have to Colonnata), local
of his own. Taking his advice, we
we took solace in a Pontremoli carry everything by hand. I’d take pecorino cheese, went to an old trattoria next to the
institution – the Antica Pasticceria my hat off to them, if I had one. chestnut flour, Duomo, which is famous for its
Degli Svizzeri. A favourite haunt Marco’s house wasn’t far from a spongata cake, mushroom dishes. I’d missed the
among the locals, the Liberty-style the castle we’d visited earlier. It and don’t forget opportunity to go picking earlier
café dates back to 1841 and with its was thirsty work walking up that a bag of dried that day so a plate of tagliatelle
mushrooms or
period fittings still retains its charm mountain so I was relieved, if not with fresh porcini mushrooms,
some mushrooms
and character. It also happens to a little baffled, when Marco took preserved in
I figured, might go some way to
make a great selection of local cakes us directly to his underground olive oil. making up for it. I wasn’t wrong!
including pasteriala (an almond cellar. It’s local custom, he
cake) or the very moreish Amor di explained, to take good friends GETTING THERE
Pontremoli, a marshmallow cream not into your home, but to your
sandwiched between two wafers. cellar. I wasn’t complaining – the ➤ BY PLANE
I can thoroughly recommend both dank, ancient stone cellar was The closest airport is Pisa to the
south of the Lunigiana, but other
with a cup of hot chocolate. As it covered wall-to-wall with bottles
international airports are within easy
happens, the café is situated next of home-made wine – a great den, reach of the area, including Milan,
door to their cake shop famed I thought to myself. As we made Bologna and Parma.
for its spongata – another local ourselves comfortable on empty
speciality, a rich honeyed nut and wooden crates, Marco opened a ➤ BY CAR
Although you can reach the Lunigiana
raisin cake sandwiched between bottle of wine and sliced open his area by train, a car is essential if you
two buttery layers of pastry. It prized home-made salami. This, really want to get the best out of your
keeps very well! apparently, is what he’d brought exploration of this part of Italy. From
Flagging spirits restored, we us here for. He’d been saving it the south or northwest you can follow
waited outside for Marco Cavellini, for a special occasion and I couldn’t the main A12/E80 to Lunigiana’s
main towns. From Parma and the
our new-found friend from the help but feel touched. But, as he
northeast you can reach the area by
Slow Food movement, who’d sliced into the salami, to his horror following the A15/E33 road south.
promised us a taste of Pontremoli he found an air pocket filled with

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 19

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Viareggio

Clockwise,
from top left:
Detail from
Viareggio’s
2010 winning
carnival float
Coffee at Villa
Borbone
Viareggio’s
harbour
Teatro dei
Quattromila
Marble quarry,
Seravezza
Carnival head
Gran Caffè
Margherita
Viareggio
beach clubs
Art by Luigi
Ferrari and
Antonello
Borella

20 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Viareggio
48 HOURS IN…

Viareggio
The resort of Viareggio is the seaside destination of choice
for Tuscans – and the carnival capital of Europe. Heather
Crombie discovers the city and its surroundings…

I
confess I didn’t know much about Viareggio before I took a
trip there myself, but the idea of a coastal resort perched in the
northwest of Tuscany was – of course – very appealing. Arriving
in early September I was first struck by the end-of-season air about
the place, with legions of unoccupied sunloungers stationed on the
beach. There was, however, still a hot wind blowing in from the sea, and
plenty of warmth in the sunshine. Holidaymakers still strolled around in
flip-flops and beachwear and there were plenty of takers for ice cream at
the gelaterie along the beach.
The beach in Viareggio seems an endless stretch of golden sand,
peppered with sunloungers and rollmat paths down to the sea. Beach
bars, shops and cafés line the edge of the sand along the Via Margherita,
which boasts original art nouveau architecture from the 1920s and 30s.
At this time Viareggio was the height of holiday fashion, with its exclusive
Image by Heather Crombie

‘bathing clubs’ and thriving arts scene. The buildings haven’t changed
much over the years, and wandering down Via Margherita in the evening
with the palm trees rustling you get the feeling of being on a film set.
Caffè Margherita is particularly impressive, with red and yellow tiled
minarets and a grand roadside terrace. ➤

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 21

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO STAY
CASA SIMONETTI 1
Viale Puccini 238, Torre del Lago
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Viareggio

www.casasimonetti.com
A small, family-run hotel in Torre del
Lago, Casa Simonetti offers a charming
and intimate B&B setting from which to
explore the area. There are four elegant
suites available as well as five individual
bedrooms. Built in the 1920s it boasts
art nouveau architecture and a beautiful
Bamboo frame and model for the carnival
little garden for guests to enjoy.
Contact the B&B for current rates
HOTEL PLAZA E DE RUSSIE 2 Viareggio’s Balena complex
Piazza D’Azeglio 1, Viareggio
www.plazaederussie.com
This is the oldest hotel in Viareggio,
built to provide accommodation for the
Russian aristocracy on their bathing
holidays. The interior is beautiful, with
Murano glass chandeliers and vintage
furnishings. Get a coffee from the roof
terrace bar and enjoy glorious views
over the sea.
Double room from €205
HOTEL TIRRENIA 3
Belltower, Pietrasanta
Via San Martino 23, Viareggio
www.tirreniahotel.com
The Tirrenia is a basic, bright and clean DON’T MISS BEYOND THE BEACH Bonaparte, Napoleon’s sister.
hotel within easy reach of the sea. The Veer off the main street and there Not too far from Villa Paolina
LUCCA FILM
interior is light and airy with bold prints
FESTIVAL are leafy piazzas to be discovered, there is another grand cultural
on the walls and colourful furniture in
the public rooms. Staff are friendly
This autumn and rows of elegant townhouses centre, Galleria D’Arte Moderna e
festival is an behind smart-looking gardens and Contemporanea, or GaMC. Many
and knowledgeable and the fresh exciting event
breakfast buffet will set you up for geranium window boxes. Down of the display rooms here showcase
in Viareggio’s
a day of exploring. cultural
side streets away from the sea there the work of two artists who lived
Double room from €85 calendar. A are museums and galleries to be in the region, Galileo Chini and
celebration found; little gems of art, culture Lorenzo Viani. Before my visit I
HOTEL PRESIDENT 4
of European and history nestling unobtrusively was unaware of Chini’s work, and
Viale Carducci 5, Viareggio
www.hotelpresident.it
cinema, with among shops and houses. Centro was therefore overwhelmed by the
focus on Italian Matteucci marks itself out on the beauty and scope of his artistic
This is a family-run four-star hotel in a cinematography
great location on the main street, close and cinema,
corner of Via G D’Annunzio with endeavours. Chini’s talents were
to public transport links. It is affiliated previous guests beautiful art nouveau tiling on remarkably diverse; he created
with two beach clubs, which can be used have included the exterior. This is a small gallery sculptures, ceramics, set designs,
by hotel guests. In the morning there is the likes of which houses the collection of ink illustrations for magazines, and
a large continental buffet on offer as Terry Gilliam, journalist Ugo Ojetti. paintings in various styles from
well as cooked breakfasts. David Lynch and On a larger and grander scale, impressionistic to art nouveau.
Double room from €120 Oliver Stone.
there is Villa Paolina in the middle Viani painted stylised portraits,
The festival’s
HOTEL SPINELLI 5 events take
of Viareggio which has varied often of the children from the
Via Trento 27/29, Viareggio place in Lucca displays. While the archaeological school where his wife worked. I
www.hotelspinelli.it and Viareggio. exhibits were fascinating, I was loved his woodcut prints too, and
The Spinelli is located between the More info at particularly struck by the wealth of the passionately-drawn portraits of
harbour and pine forests at a quieter www.lucca unusual musical instruments here, the poverty-stricken people he saw
end of town. It is stylish, comfortable filmfestival.it/ from the collection of Giovanni every day, who reminded him of his
and modern with a pleasant garden Ciuffreda. These include an own humble background. Other
and terrace. There are plenty of 18th-century pochette (pocket rooms in the gallery are devoted
restaurants nearby and it’s a short violin) and a beautiful Burmese to more modern collections, with
stroll to the beach.
saun (a type of harp). The building graphic art a dominant feature.
Double room from €70
is also of historical significance, If you want a bit of a break
as it was the residence of Paolina from the cultural side of Viareggio,

22 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 WHERE TO EAT
AL PORTO 6
Via Michele Coppino, 118, Viareggio

NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Viareggio

www.ristoranteilporto.eu
The view over the harbour at sunset is a
magical backdrop to your evening meal
(sit upstairs for the best views). They
serve stunning platters of fresh seafood
and also offer a ‘land-based’ menu of
various meats or pasta.
€ €
Piazza del Duomo, Pietrasanta
BUONUMORE 7
Viale Capponi 1/ ang. Via Marcopolo,
Seravezza countryside Viareggio
inland from Viareggio www.facebook.com/
BuonumoreRistorante/
The Chef at Buonumore is passionate
about serving the best food to diners
at his restaurant. He will produce a
fantastic array of seafood and meat for
carnivores but can cater for vegetarians
and vegans too. The restaurant is in what
looks like a wooden hut, with fairylights
strung up around the outdoor terrace.
It’s a low-key but lovely setting for
delicious food.
Bust of the poet Shelley € €

CHALET DEL LAGO 8

a spot of shopping never goes As you might expect, the little DON’T MISS Piazza Belvedere Puccini, 55048,
amiss. There are many fashionable town is given over entirely to Torre del Lago
CARNIVAL
www.chaletdellago.it
boutiques along the Via Margherita Puccini – from the museum in his Time your visit
This special restaurant is where Puccini
to tempt you, interspersed with villa to the Puccini-based hotels for carnival
spent a great deal of his time. The views
bars and cafés in case you need and restaurants and a statue of season and you
will experience over the lake are so beautiful and the
to rest your weary shopping bags. the man himself. In spite of all interior so inviting that it’s almost
one of the most
I had a glorious time browsing this, Torre del Lago does not have impressive irrelevant that it serves such delicious
the market stalls that pop up the feel of a town that is simply festivals in food. During the Puccini festival it’s the

Torre del Lago does not have the feel of

Europe with meeting place for musicians and artists.
enormous, € €
intricate floats,

a town that is simply ‘ cashing in’… music, dancing

and street
parties. If you
BAGNO QUILGHINI 9
Viale Regina Margherita 88, Viareggio
www.bagnoquilghini.com
can’t make This is a typically cheap and cheerful
every Thursday morning along ‘cashing in’. There is a real sense the carnival beach bar where you can relax on the
the seafront. There are masses of of reverence for the man and his itself, visit the decking with a refreshing beer or a snack.
clothes, shoes, bags, leather goods music, and a great beauty in the Cittadella del The staff are friendly and the atmosphere
and crafts on offer at bargain price. leafy streets and lakeside aspect. Carnevale for is relaxed at this casual café. Open from
a fascinating
I took a scheduled boat trip on the April until October.
insight into €
A LITTLE OPERA lake, which provided lovely views this wonderful
A trip to Viareggio would not be of the town and the theatre. A CD tradition. RISTORANTE ROMANO 10
complete without a visit to the of Puccini favourites was played Via Giuseppe Mazzini 122, Viareggio
world-renowned Torre del Lago on throughout the trip and, as my visit www.romanoristorante.it
nearby Lake Massaciuccoli, where didn’t coincide with a performance The Romano is a warm and welcoming
Giacomo Puccini’s villa is now of the ‘real thing’ at Teatro dei place with a great ambiance. As could be
open to the public and his lakeside Quattromila, I contented myself ➤ KEY TO expected in Viareggio, seafood here is a
theatre in such a serene setting with this simulacrum, which was RESTAURANT PRICES particular speciality, and all the dishes
captivates thousands of opera just lovely. The sunlight was golden (full meal per person,
not including wine)
are prepared with genuine care and great
skill. There is an impressive wine list on
lovers each year. Traffic is severely as it set over the mountains, its last € Up to €25 offer too.
restricted, which makes the streets rays highlighting silvery herons € € €26-€50 € € €
even more pleasant to wander. fishing in the reeds. ➤ € € € More than €50

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 23

 7
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

TORRE DEL LAGO 11
Puccini’s former home town is a beautiful
10
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Viareggio

place to spend the day. Villa Puccini 4

Museum (www.giacomopuccini.it) is 15
devoted to him (he’s buried in the chapel
here) and the villa is open to visitors in 9 3
13
spring and summer. There are regular 2
boat trips around Lake Massaciuccoli.
Boat trips with Escursioni Nella Palude,
adults €8, children €4, www.navilago.it 14
PUCCINI FESTIVAL 12 6
16
www.puccinifestival.it 5
The Puccini Festival takes place in Torre
del Lago, with events throughout July
and August. Tickets for open-air theatre
performances cost from €20 to €170. It
is a magical venue and the best possible
place to enjoy a superb musical treat. 11 12
1 8
VILLA PAOLINA 13
Via Niccolò Machiavelli 2, Viareggio
Map data © Google 2023

+39 0584 944580

Paolina Bonaparte commissioned
architect Giovanni Lazzarini to build
her a villa where she could entertain
Viareggio’s high society. Years after
her death the villa became a school,
and was badly damaged in World War
II. After restoration this building now
houses the Civic Museum, incorporating DON’T MISS Back on land, I had to have a afternoon driving down the
archaeological exhibits and a collection
CETUS BOAT TRIP look at the theatre, just to imagine coast road through Camaiore
of historical musical instruments.
Local marine how stunning the performances (the nightlife capital of the area),
MUSEO DELLA MARINERIA 14 biologists offer might look. Teatro dei Quattromila through the busy little town
Via Pescheria 9, Viareggio boat trips off the is named for its seating capacity, of Forte di Marmi and into
This museum opened in the former fish coast. Spend an although it is slightly exaggerated Pietrasanta. Pietrasanta is a far
market building and commemorates the afternoon whale
and dolphin
as there are only 3,200 seats! cry from the beach club culture
area’s maritime history. See fascinating Puccini felt that music had more of Viareggio. Piazza del Duomo,
seabed relics on display as well as watching; visit
Portovenere and resonance when played by water, the main square, is flanked by a
antique diving equipment and profiles of
local sailors from the early 20th century.
Tino Island or which is why his theatre juts cathedral, a theatre and a 15th-
set off early for a out into the lake. Whatever the century belltower, as well as little
GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA day-long fishing acoustic merits of this location cafés with plenty of outdoor
E CONTEMPORANEA (GAMC) 15 expedition. The
might be, the visual effect is seating. At the far edge of the
Piazza Mazzini, Viareggio trips help to
fund marine
striking. The natural majesty of the square there is a steep rise into
www.gamc.it lake and the mountains provide the mountains where houses
research and
This large, central gallery is home to a
conservation in an awe-inspiring backdrop to the appear to be swallowed up by lush
great range of modern art, from graphic
prints to abstract sculpture. See website
the region. stage setting, which gives the sense vegetation. This is a beautiful town
More info at that a performance here would in a stunning location, and it is no
for the most up-to-date temporary www.cetus
exhibitions, and look out for work by really be something special. Every surprise that so many artists over
research.eu
locals Galileo Chini and Lorenzo Viani. summer the Puccini festival attracts the years have made it their home.
40,000 people to Torre del Lago Pietrasanta’s artistic renown
YACHT SPOTTING 16 and the ‘Parco della Musica’ around began when Michelangelo
Viareggio is a focal point for yacht-
the theatre, which is also home to discovered how beautiful the local
owners, and has all you could need
to buy, fit, mend or decorate your
striking pieces of modern sculpture. marble was and insisted in using it
multi-million euro vessel. The Armani
for his sculptures. Henry Moore
yacht was built here, joining many other ALONG THE COAST had a studio here for many years,
designer-owned crafts in the harbour. Viareggio is also an ideal base and more recently the Columbian
Stroll the waterfront to browse these from which to explore the towns artist Fernando Botero came here
magnificent crafts. and villages in the foothills of the to create modern frescoes in a local
Apuan Alps. I spent a pleasant church (Chiesa S. Antonio e San

24 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Viareggio
Le Chalet, Torre del Lago

Presenting the View towards the

Elegant Galileo Chini tiles region’s seafood! coast, Seravezza

Biagio o della Misericordi on Via carnival tradition began in 1873, Viareggio offers beaches and a DON’T MISS
Mazzini). The town welcomes and and since then many of the floats nature reserve, with ample options APERITIVI ON
celebrates its artists and there seem have taken on a distinctly political for outdoor and indoor activities THE WATER-
to be local sculptures around every theme. Back in 2010, Silvio along the way, from boating and FRONT
corner. Drive a little further up into Berlusconi was depicted in several sunbathing to shopping, culture Whether
you choose a
the mountains and the roads get floats, as the ‘Edward Scissorhands’ and music. What’s more, the
beach café or
smaller, the vegetation gets thicker of spending cuts, or a hula dancer town is a great base for exploring harbourside bar,
and the views get more beautiful. In in a ‘banana republic’ or a puppet- the northern Tuscan coast. A it is important
the lofty villages outside Seravezza master in control of the media. fascinating place to fill a weekend, to find some
sweet chestnuts and olives grow There are nightmarish models of whatever you want to do. time for a
in abundance, affording glimpses ghosts and dragons and some, like leisurely drink
of ridges of marble in the east and the 2010 winner, full of beauty on Viareggio’s
distant blue sea to the west. and made with love: it depicts two GETTING THERE seafront. I
favour the port
swans with wings open to embrace ➤ BY PLANE area at sunset,
CARNIVAL CULTURE one another, as flower buds open Pisa (Galileo Galilei) airport is closest when the masts
Finally, you cannot visit Viareggio around them to reveal babies to Viareggio and most hotels offer are silhouetted
without sampling the carnival nestling within. All the floats have transfers from the airport. There are against the sky
a wide range of flights available from and you can
culture for which it is renowned. If moving parts and are carefully various UK airports to Pisa. dream about
you can, time your visit to coincide engineered; it takes around 15
➤ BY TRAIN sailing off in
with the spectacle itself, which people to operate one to ensure The town of Viareggio is only 20km one of the many
takes place every year in February that all the movements are fluid. from Pisa airport and it is possible yachts that sway
and March, but failing that a visit The carnival is a very important to travel by train to arrive directly at the harbour.
to ‘Carnival City’ and its museum time for people here. I spoke Viareggio station. Use the Ventimiglia
is the next best thing. The floats to Alessandro, who has lived in – Firenze line.
are kept in enormous hangars until Viareggio all his life. The carnival ➤ BY CAR
August, at which time they are is very special to him and when If you are travelling by car you
dismantled so work can begin on I asked him why, he told me, will need to take the A11 and A12
highways from the south or the A15
next year’s creations. Each float “Because it is magical. The carnival and A12 highways from the north;
costs in excess of €100,000 and allows people to escape from their take the Viareggio exit.
each one is a work of art. The everyday problems.”

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 25

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 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Lucca

Clockwise, from
top left:
A bird’s eye view
of Lucca from
the Torre Guinigi
The Piazza
dell’Anfiteatro,
with the
elliptical shape
of the Roman
amphitheatre i
Cycling along
the city walls
is a favourite
activity f
Postcards for
sale in the old
town
The imposing
church of San
Michele, often
mistaken for
Lucca’s cathedral
An elderly man
playing chess
in the welcome
shade of a
chestnut tree on
the city walls
A detail of the
façade of Lucca’s
cathedral

28 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Lucca
48 HOURS IN…

Lucca
Marina Spironetti visits this increasingly popular
Tuscan city, and climbs its ancient walls and multitude
of towers in search of the perfect landscape view

W
hen I first went to the city of Lucca I left with a
feeling of pleasing quietness. The crowds that cram
into nearby Pisa seemed to spare this gem of a city,
apart from a small number of discreet visitors who
were rather careful about not spreading the word.
Upon my last visit, though, things seemed to have changed dramatically –
judging by the number of tourists strolling along its streets and piazzas,
the secret has been revealed.
Images by Marina Spironetti, www.marinaspironetti.com

But my first impression did not change. Lucca is almost too perfect
to be real. A dream city – in its own restrained, homely kind of way.
Writer Hilaire Belloc’s 1902 description of the city still holds true:
“The neatest, the regularest, the exactest, the most fly-in-amber town
in the world, with its uncrowded streets, its absurd fortifications…
everything in Lucca is good.”
Well, the streets might not be that “uncrowded” anymore, but the
“absurd fortifications” are still standing proud. I therefore decided to
begin my tour of the city with the customary walk along the mura,
Lucca’s legendary 4km-long walls. Built during the 16th and 17th
centuries, this stern fortification – complete with 11 impregnable

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 29

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL LA LUNA 1
Via Fillungo, Corte Compagni 12
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Lucca

www.hotellaluna.it
This hotel enjoys a great location, just
off via Fillungo and a stone’s throw from
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. Twenty-nine clean
and well appointed rooms are spread
over two different buildings, the oldest
of which is an ancient 14th-century
palazzo. Friendly and helpful staff
complete the package, making it
well recommended.
ALLA CORTE DEGLI ANGELI 2
Via degli Angeli 23
www.allacortedegliangeli.com
Located on one of the loveliest streets
of Lucca, this hotel is an excellent base
from which to explore the sights. Each
bedroom is named after a flower and
decorated with trompe l’oeil effects
and murals. Large bathrooms, some
with a jacuzzi, make it a perfect
romantic getaway.
B&B LA ROMEA 3
Vicolo delle Ventaglie 2
www.laromea.com
This is an affordable choice with a
beautiful décor, located just a short
and pleasant stroll to Guinigi Tower. Lucca’s rooftops seen from the top
Each room adopts its own unique vision of the medieval Torre Guinigi
and style, giving it a boutique feel for
a B&B price. Facilities include a spacious
living room, perfect for private meetings DON’T MISS bastions – was never properly you just left behind. I entered from
and relaxed breakfasts. PUCCINI TRAIL
tested. The ramparts were put to St Peter’s Gate, at the south end of
Birthplace good use only in 1812, when they the city near the train station, and
ALBERGO CELIDE 4 defended the city from flooding headed for Lucca’s 11th-century
of composer
Viale Giuseppe Giusti 25 Giacomo Puccini, rather than invaders. With a height cathedral, which resides in a quiet
www.albergocelide.it there are plenty of 12m and a double row of trees corner pleasantly secluded from the
Just outside Lucca’s city walls, Albergo of homages
Celide is not far from San Martino
planted on top, nowadays they are hustle and bustle.
around the
Cathedral and other Lucca landmarks. city. The Museo
like an elevated garden boulevard. Its architecture seems a
Restful rooms with a restaurant on-site, Villa Puccini is On one side is the centro storico little bizarre, if not somewhat
also open to non-residents. Friendly his preserved and its glorious architecture, unbalanced: a porch with three
staff, easy parking and free bikes for residence, kept on the other is the lush Tuscan arches, each a different size, and a
getting around Lucca. almost exactly countryside, all the way to the Lombard bell tower built before
as it was during peaks of the Apuan Alps in the the rest of the Romanesque
the composition
distance. A hotspot for strolling, structure. Still, the Duomo di
of Madame
GETTING THERE cycling and running, the mura also San Martino is probably the most
Butterfly. The
➤ BY PLANE museum opens offer quiet shady corners, which outstanding work of the Pisan style
The closest airport is Galileo Galilei late during the are perfect for a picnic or – why outside Pisa itself. The dimly lit
in Pisa, which is only 20km away. festival – not – a game of chess, as the elderly interior reveals a large tabernacle
Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies there from www.giacomo Lucchesi know well. containing the Volto Santo (holy
Gatwick and Luton, while Ryanair puccini.it
face), a painted wooden crucifix
(ryanair.com) offers a regular service
THE ARTISTIC SOUL supposedly carved by Nicodemus,
from various UK airports.
➤ KEY TO Once you make your way inside, which allegedly represents the
➤ BY BUS RESTAURANT PRICES Lucca is a city made for the accurate face of Jesus. A major
Regular buses into Lucca are operated (full meal per person,
pleasure of wandering. The old object of worship, it is marched
by Lazzi (lazzi.it). Tickets can be bought not including wine)
town is a continuous surprise and through the streets of Lucca every
in the tourist information office, found € Up to €25
inside the airport. € € €26-€50 every piazza you come across seems 13th September in a solemn torch-
€ € € More than €50 to delight even more than the one lit procession. Other must-see

30 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 WHERE TO EAT
TRATTORIA DA GIULIO 5
Via delle Conce 45

NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Lucca

www.trattoriadelgiulio.it
A small-scale, family-run restaurant
that has been serving home-style
lucchese cuisine since 1945. With a
simple menu of local dishes such as
tortelli Lucca, farinata and castagnaccio
(chestnut cake), it will surely come
Different architectural styles The imposing as no surprise to learn that this fine
on the way to the Duomo Romanesque cathedral establishment is very much among the
locals’ favourite places to dine.
€

RISTORANTE CAFFETTERIA
SAN COLOMBANO 6
Via delle Mura Urbane 10,
www.caffetteriasancolombano.it
San Colombano is in a great location
right on the city walls that offers a
spectacular view over the town. The
menu offers several menus including
cocktails, pizza, tapas as well as more
traditional lucchese food.
€ €

LA BUCA DI SANT’ANTONIO 7
Via della Cervia 3
www.bucadisantantonio.it
This family-run restaurant is an
A tourist browsing handmade institution in the city and has been
souvenirs on Piazza dell’Anfiteatro Enjoying the walls on a rickshaw serving food since 1782! Still offering
delicious traditional recipes, with the
occasional innovative twist, advance
artworks housed in the Duomo white marble where every single DON’T MISS booking is advised to ensure a table.
include the magnificent Last column is different from the OLIVE OIL € € €
Supper by Tintoretto and the other, according to the Pisan style; Lucca is one of
marble tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, some doubled, some knotted, TRE MERLI PIZZA E CUCINA 8
Italy’s main città
a masterpiece of funerary sculpture others carved into fantastical dell’olio (oil Via dell’Anfiteatro 15
+39 0583 490370
by Jacopo della Quercia. animals. And, above this alluring cities) – along
with Florence This stylish place just off Piazza
From the cathedral, Via Duomo architecture, the graceful statue dell’Anfiteatro is a welcome addition to
and Siena – and
takes me to Piazza Napoleone, of Saint Michael stands tall, produces some Lucca’s restaurant scene. A good place
Lucca’s main square. Its name is overlooking the busy crowds as exquisite oils. to try some typical Tuscan dishes such
clearly a reminder of an important they throng the streets down below. During your stay, as ribollita (bread and mixed vegetable
chapter in the city’s history: after try the local extra soup) or the ever-winning bistecca alla
Napoleon seized the city, he gave A MAGICAL ATMOSPHERE virgin olive oil fiorentina (beefsteak). Delicious and
it to his sister Elisa Baciocchi, who East of San Michele, Via Fillungo with nothing within budget.
but freshly
patronised an intense – if not too is the focus of Lucca’s evening € €
made foccacia
brief – time of artistic ferment here passeggiata as well as being the for a simple, but FORNO GIUSTI 9
in the city. city’s shopping artery – fancy ever-pleasing, Via Santa Lucca 20
Heading north, the magnificent boutiques, restaurants and food mouthful. The If you’re looking to gather provisions
Piazza San Michele awaits. This shops selling every possible annual olive oil for an authentic Italian picnic, then this
is the spiritual heart of the city, Tuscan delicacy, from cheese festival is held bakery is a brilliant choice. It has plenty
in November/
dominated by the church, which and wine to olive oil. And, yes, of fresh pizza and bread on offer, with
December across
bears the same name. Often the renowned Caffè di Simo, the city.
a variety of mouthwatering toppings.
mistaken for the cathedral, this €

impressive Romanesque church

remains by far Lucca’s most
beautiful sight. An ambitious Lucca is also a city of towers – the skyline
façade, rising well above the level
of the roof, a blinding triumph of looking like an old-time Manhattan
TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 31
 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
15 13

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

SHOPPING ON PIAZZA ANFITEATRO 10
Aside from ever-present souvenir shops, 11
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Lucca

the gorgeous setting of Piazza Anfiteatro

offers quality shopping as well. Head
to Le Sorelle (Piazza Anfiteatro 30/31, 5
www.lesorelleinlucca.it). The boutique 8
10
is the idea of four enterprising sisters 2
who sell anything from tableware to 1
body products made following ancient
Tuscan formulas.
3 14
BIKE TOUR 11 9
Do it like the locals and cycle around the 12
city. Bicycles can be hired pretty much
everywhere within the city walls. Rates 7
11
start generally at around €20 per day.
Try Cicli Bizzarri (Piazza Santa Maria 32,
www.ciclibizzarri.net) or Cicli Rai (via
San Nicolao 66, www.ciclirai.it). Fancy
going further afield? Lucca Cycling Club
offers half or full day itineraries for keen
cyclists (www.luccacyclingclub.com). 4
PUCCINI MUSEUM 12 6
Corte San Lorenzo 9

Map data © Google 2023

www.puccinimuseum.it
The birthplace of Lucca’s most famous
son is a must see for opera lovers: plenty
of musical memorabilia, including the
piano on which he composed Turandot
and the original libretti of his early
works. Admission is €9/€7 and children
under 10 can visit for free.
LUCCA’S VILLAS 13 DON’T MISS currently closed while undergoing arena where the gladiators used to
The city has a particular penchant for RELIGIOUS major renovations. This is Lucca’s fight now a breathtaking ellipse
16th-century architecture, so a stroll FESTIVALS most celebrated Belle Epoque of yellow medieval houses.
around the stately homes and villas is The revered Volto caffè-pasticceria where composer It’s best to head there in the
a must. Highlights include Villa Reale, Santo crucifix – Giacomo Puccini – Lucca’s most evening, when the restaurants
owned by Vittorio Emanuele II after which depicts the famous son – used to play piano open up their elegant terraces for
Italian reunification, and Villa Torrigiani face of Christ – is
the focus during
there, and enjoy its excellent coffee! dinner and local children play
which boasts breathtaking gardens.
a fortnight of It is planned to reopen next year freely on the pavement. A magical
TORRE GUINIGI 14 festivities held on the occasion of the centenary atmosphere, really – Tuscany at
Castello di Porta San Donato Nuova every year in of Puccini’s death. its most charming.
With leaning oak trees curiously mid-September. From Piazza dell’Anfiteatro,
sprouting from the top, this iconic A candlelit PAST TO PRESENT I then head to the Basilica of
45-metre tower was built by the Giunigi procession
weaves through
Halfway up Via Fillungo, a narrow San Freudiano, which is only a
family to flaunt their social status as well arch to your right will lead you into short and pleasant walk away.
as being a defensive measure. Climb the Lucca’s cobbled
streets, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, a reminder Instantly distinguishable from
232 steps to enjoy the secret garden
mimicking of Lucca’s ancient past (it came of the other Romanesque churches
and panoramic views over the city.
Entry costs €5 per adult.
the trail of the age as a Roman municipium in 89 in town, it boasts a proud façade
original relic. BC). The name is a bit misleading, with a lavish 13th-century mosaic
STONE ART 15 Needless to say,
as not a single stone remains from in a Byzantine-like style. This
Pietrasanta, about 30km from Lucca, food and wine
are also present
Roman times. As is the case with overwhelming fresco depicts
is Tuscany’s widely acclaimed capital the city of Rome itself and many Christ’s ascension, painted in
to give thanks
for marble art, where even the great other cities attributed to the era, suitably rich colours. The interior
for the object.
Michelangelo would occasionally come
the stone was recycled, probably is well worth seeing, especially for
to gather the raw materials for his
sculptures. The narrow streets of this
carted off for San Michele and the delightful Fontana Lustrale, a
small, coastal town are full of sculptors’ the cathedral. Still, the outline of richly carved baptismal font with
workshops and exhibition rooms. this amphitheatre is perfectly and sculpted reliefs, as well as a shrine
beautifully preserved, with the to Lucca’s patron saint, Santa Zita.

32 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 NORTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Lucca
Le Mura, Lucca’s medieval walls
that encircle the old town

REACH FOR THE SKY My last treat in Lucca was DON’T MISS A statue of
Lucca is also a city of towers. The Palazzo Pfanner, a scenic 17th- SUMMER SOUNDS Giuseppe Garibaldi
startling skyline can be appreciated century palace where parts of the The Lucca in the central
from the city walls: several lofty film adaptation for Henry James’ Summer Festival Piazza del Giglio
towers and campanili that make Portrait of a Lady (with Nicole is a celebration
the city look like an old-time Kidman and John Malkovich) were of live music held
in the Piazza
Manhattan. Having some energy shot. Felix Pfanner was an Austrian Napoleone every
left, I decided to climb up the Torre emigrant who was among the first summer. Past
Guinigi, attracted by the unusual ones to bring beer to Italy – and performers have
sight of looming oak trees growing brewed it in the mansion’s cellar. included Ringo
out of its top. The 14th-century Sadly, the brewery closed in Starr, Gorillaz
stronghold of the Guinigi family 1929 but the ornate 18th-century and Alice Cooper.
For 2023, Bob
is one of Lucca’s most beloved gardens are a real treat for the Dylan, Robbie
landmarks. The climb up its eye. Statues of Greek gods and Williams, Norah
232 steps is certainly worth the the Four Seasons, hortensia Jones, Sigur Rós
effort – once you reach the top, bushes, ornamental flowers and and Blur are just
you are rewarded with an amazing earthenware pots of lemon trees are a few names
bird’s eye view of the city to the scattered all over. A fine example of scheduled in the
A tourist admires the
stellar line-up.
countryside beyond, all the way to Baroque elegance – and the perfect Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
www.summer
the Apuan Alps, stretching to the place to sit down and read a book, festival.com
on a postcard
very edge of the Tyrrhenian sea. in the welcome shade of a tree.

Once you reach the top, you are rewarded with

an amazing view of the Apuan Alps
TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 33
 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Pisa

Clockwise, from
top left:
Salza chocolate
The colourful
street market
The Arno at
sunset
An iris at the
Ortico Botanico
Pisan fresco
Borgo Stretta in
the sunshine
The iconic
leaning tower

34 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Pisa
48 HOURS IN…

Pisa
This former Maritime Republic is packed with hidden gems.
Heather Crombie pops to Pisa and discovers there’s far
more to the city than a leaning tower

T
he Tuscan city of Pisa is famed for a quirk of geology and
architecture which draws visitors from all over the world. At
any time of day, Piazza dei Miracoli (or Piazza del Duomo)
is thronged with coachloads of tourists taking snaps of one
another ‘propping up’ the tower. What they miss out on
when they get back on the coach, however, is the less celebrated beauty
that lies just south of Cathedral Square.

TAKING TO THE STREETS

I arrived in Pisa to glorious afternoon sunshine, highlighting Gallileo
Gallilei airport in shimmering gold. The weather came as a pleasant
surprise as my weekend visit fell across ‘la Merla’ – traditionally the coldest
three days of the year. The centre of Pisa is a short bus ride from the
airport, and before long I was marvelling at the hidden courtyard garden
of Hotel Novecento and settling into my room. Stepping out to explore in
the remaining daylight, I was struck by the haphazard beauty of the city’s
Images by Heather Crombie

tower houses, each built around an archway structure to preserve some

stability on the area’s soft, silty soil. All that gazing upwards meant I was
soon lost, and aimlessly strolling without a map. The streets of the city
crisscross in unexpected directions, and as the light faded I was grateful
for the sight of a landmark, the top of the leaning tower peeping over

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 35

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO EAT
IL PEPERONCINO 1
Via Santa Maria 95
www.facebook.com/
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Pisa

ristoranteilpeperoncino
Not far from the Orto Botanico (see
right), this is an excellent local place for
lunch and evening meals but make sure
you book your table for supper. Delicious,
well-prepared local food, with pizza,
gnocchi and tiramisu not to be missed.
Try the ricotta and fig torta if it’s on the
menu when you go.
€ €

ANTICA TRATTORIA IL CAMPANO 2

Via Cavalca 19
www.ilcampano.com
Right in the oldest part of Pisa, this
friendly, family-run restaurant is very
popular with locals, so booking in advance
is recommended. Here you’ll find typical
Tuscan cuisine, which you can select from
the impressively extensive menu.
€ €

The sun shines on

PIZZERIA IL MONTINO 3
Piazza del Duomo –
Via del Monte
‘Cathedal Square’
www.pizzeriailmontino.com
This is the place to come for cecina,
the seasoned chickpea cake that is best DON’T MISS the rooftops at a jaunty angle. I itself, down the snaking riverbed
served in hot, homemade focaccia. followed it like a star. Beautifully route of Via Santa Maria, over
CASCIANA
Popular with students and locals, this
TERME illuminated, uncharacteristically the colossal 13th-century hospital
café is an excellent venue for a quick
lunch on the go, when you need a little
If you have a quiet, Piazza del Duomo was complex, into the dense greenery
little longer particularly beautiful to my eyes of the Botanical Garden, to the
break from sightseeing. A selection of than a weekend
pizzas and sandwiches are available too. as it meant I could find my way bridges that span the Arno. With
to spend in the
€
area, head into
back to base. So, a sigh of a relief this impressive vista set out before
the Pisan hills and a swift right turn onto Via me I was keen to explore the rest
RISTORANTE SANTA MARIA 4 Roma, and there was just time for of the city, and made my way back
to check out this
Via Santa Maria 104/106
picturesque spa a shower before dinner. down the marble steps to see the
www.ristorantesantamaria.com
Just off Cathedral Square, this is a
town. The spa other monuments in the ‘Field of
itself, Terme di THE TOURIST TRAIL Miracles’ – a title coined by Italian
popular – and handy – lunch spot for Casciana (Piazza
visitors to Pisa and has a reasonably- Garibaldi 9) is
The next morning the skies are as writer Gabriele d’Annunzio for this
priced, wide-ranging menu as well the perfect place bright and clear as the day before. little piece of Pisa. The architecture
as three-course specials. The freshly- for forgetting all Galvanised by the sunshine, I set is in the Pisan-Romanesque style –
cooked food tastes even better eaten at your everyday out to take some early pictures. a decorative, cosmopolitan blend
one of the outdoor tables when the sun cares, and the Via Roma is an ideal base, allowing of structural design from around
is shining. lush scenery of easy access to all of Pisa. I start the world. The interior of the
the surrounding
€ €
the day alongside the first of the cathedral boasts a stunning Medici
valleys adds
PASTICCERIA SALZA 5 an additional
coach parties in Piazza del Duomo. roof in blue and gold, a forest
Borgo Stretto 46 element of The white stone of the cathedral of marble pillars in the style of a
+39 050 580 144 enjoyment. is dazzling in the sunshine, and Turkish mosque, and an exquisite
Just a glimpse of Salza’s window is the baptistery dome stands out pulpit by Giovanni Pisano. In this
enough to make your mouth water. If against a blue sky. cathedral a young Galileo Galilei
you can possibly choose between the I climbed the 300 steps of the formulated the pendulum theory
dazzling array of cakes, pastries and ➤ KEY TO leaning tower to take in the views. while contemplating the movement
chocolates on offer, this is the place to RESTAURANT PRICES To the north the mountains were of an overhead lantern.
treat yourself to a taste of heaven. This (full meal per person,
not including wine)
visible – some snow-covered, some Venturing inside the sacristy,
famous Pisan establishment also serves
€ Up to €25
perennially dusted in snow-white I was first struck by the frescoes
up fantastic breakfast pastries and
€ € €26-€50 alabaster from the quarries. To along the inner walls. Many of
exclusive buffet lunches.
€
€ € € More than €50 the south you get views over Pisa these works of art were destroyed

36 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 WHAT TO SEE AND DO
PALAZZO BLU 6
www.palazzoblu.it
The building is a work of art, so it is a

NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Pisa

fitting home for the impressive collection
One of the chic shops inside. Much of the original stonework
of Borgo Stretto has been revealed in the renovation
process, as have several frescoes that had
previously been hidden by subsequent
plastering. A cultural feast.
ORTO BOTANICO 7
Via Luca Ghini 13
www.ortomuseobot.sma.unipi.it/
This ‘secret garden’ is a refuge from the
bustle of the surrounding streets and a
beautiful place to meander or relax with
a book. Appreciate the magnificence of
the enormous palm trees and majestic
bamboo thickets and peer into the
hothouses for orchids and fruit trees.
PIAZZA DEL DUOMO 8
The heart of touristic Pisa – and for good
reason. Don’t just look at the leaning
Tucking in to an tower – climb right to the top. The views
Italian buffet
are well worth it. The beautiful cathedral
breakfast at the
has a fascinating sacristy and the
Novecento Hotel
acoustic demonstration in the baptistery
every half hour is magical.
in the Second World War, when at the western side of the square, DON’T MISS TEATRO VERDI 9
a stray bomb hit the south wall. where there is another impressive LUMINARA www.teatrodipisa.pi.it/
The frescoes that survived are pulpit with a cautionary narrative This spectacular This beautiful, historic theatre is the
streaked black in places, where told in stone. The acoustics celebration of venue for theatrical performances,
the lead of the roof melted in the of the dome were carefully Pisa’s patron from plays, operas and ballet to modern
ensuing blaze. Various restorative designed to turn human voices saint, San dance, concerts and lectures. The Foyer
Ranieri, is held Café here is a relaxed and elegant venue
measures have been taken over into organ music – a fact artfully on the 16th
the years and visitors can still demonstrated during my visit by for pre-performance drinks and snacks.
and 17th June
marvel at the medieval cautionary one of the staff. At half-hourly each year. A CHIESA SANTA MARIA DELLA SPINA 10
tales set out here. Along with intervals the doors of the baptistery candle is lit in The tiny, ornate 14th-century church on
memorial sarcophagi and are closed, and a member of the every window of the Arno’s south bank was built so close
flagstones that commemorate door staff stands in the centre of every riverside to the river that it was regularly flooded.
building, and
the wealthy dead, there is a relic the building and sings a single note hundreds of
Hence its rebuilding to a slightly elevated
from Pisa’s maritime golden age in an impressive baritone. While position on street level. It’s small but
tiny lanterns
– the colossal iron chains that this sound reverberates eerily, perfectly formed, well worth a visit.
are floated in
formed part of the coastal defences, he follows it with a harmonising the river. People MUSEO NAZIONALE DI SAN MATTEO 11
hanging on the far wall. note, and soon the air is full of travel from all Admire paintings, sculptures and
The intense religious fervour of melodious vibrations. A hauntingly over the world ceramics from the 12th-18th century
to see this
the time is apparent in every inch beautiful effect. in this riverside museum, the ancient
remarkable
of the building, and at each turn display on the
convent of San Matteo. See early Tuscan
there is a friendly reminder of our THE HEART OF THE CITY artworks, and sculptures from local
River Arno.
mortality, and the imperative of Buoyed up by my morning of churches that needed to be restored.
preserving one’s immortal soul. explorations, I ventured south, into PIAZZA DEI CAVALIERI 12
This is just as apparent in the the ‘real Pisa’ which too few visitors This was the political centre of Pisa
baptistery, the solid, single dome see. The side-streets leading off in medieval times. It is now presided
over by the impressive façade of Scuola

The acoustics of the dome were designed to

Normale which was founded by Napoleon
in 1810. Next door is the Church of the
Knights of the Holy and Military Order

turn human voices into organ music of St. Stephen, flaunting the banners of
captured Turkish ships.

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 37

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

8
WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL NOVECENTO 13
15
Via Roma 37
4
www.hotelnovecento.pisa.it
NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Pisa

This ideally-situated hotel is a real

haven. The little courtyard garden is
a restful place to recharge your batteries, 1
listening to the gentle splash of the
fountain. Rooms are well appointed, 7
the staff are helpful, and in the stylish 12
breakfast room you can fill up on the
large buffet while gazing out at the
16
garden and planning your day.
Double room from €90 13 5
3
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL 14
Lungarno Pacinotti 12 2
www.royalvictoria.it
The Royal Victoria has been a hotel since 14 9
1837, and as such has accommodated 17
many notable guests, including Lloyd
6
Map data © Google 2023

George, Charles Dickens and Henry

James. The Piegaja family owns this 10
listed building and their care is apparent.
11
Guests can relax on the beautiful roof
terrace, and experience a little bit of
history during their riverside stay.
Double room from €100
HOTEL KINZICA 15 DON’T MISS from Piazza del Duomo are home each room. I was entranced by the
Piazza Arcivescovado 2 to various restaurants, cafés and dramatic Polittico di Agnano by
PISAN FOOD
www.hotelvillakinzica.com bars, giving way to tower houses Cecco di Pietro, a 14th-century
Nearby Parco
Being so close to Piazza del Duomo,
di Migliarino and shops further south. I followed screen that was originally part
this converted 18th-century villa is in San Rossore,
a popular place to stay. On nearby
Borgo Stretto, the principal of the San Gerolamo monastery.
Massaciuccoli is shopping street, and gazed I was similarly struck by Niccolò
Via Santa Maria there is easy access home to much
to a good range of restaurants, bars local food,
longingly at the window displays. Pericoli’s 16th-century sculpture,
and shops, and it’s a pleasant stroll including pine The sales were on, but I steadfastly ‘Arpia a cavallo di un rospo’.
down to the river. nuts, beach avoided entering any of the stylish There is a hideous realism about
Double room from €85 honey and emporiums, knowing too well what this fantastical representation
special beef it might do to my wallet. of a harpy mounting a toad, and
GRAND HOTEL BONANNO 16 from a cattle
Via Carlo Francesco Gabba 17
www.grandhotelbonanno.com
This four-star hotel boasts 89 en-suite
breed that has
been reared in
the area for 500
There is a dizzying wealth of artwork
rooms, a bar and restaurant, private
parking and internet access. It is 800m
from Piazza del Duomo and within
years. Truffles
and chestnuts
are also local
within the walls of Palazzo Blu
easy reach of transport links. Staff are specialities. I crossed the Ponte di Mezzo I was torn between admiring
Try cecine
extremely helpful and will ensure you to Palazzo Blu, a startlingly hued, the skilful craftsmanship of the
in foccace, a
have a comfortable, luxurious stay.
freshly-baked
grand building on the south bank stonework and averting my eyes
Double room from €125 of the river, housing an impressive to avoid having nightmares! The
chickpea patty
HOTEL VERDI 17 in hot Italian art collection. It was most recently rest of the house was magnificent,
Piazza della Repubblica 5/6 bread. owned by the Giuli family – hence with recently uncovered frescoes,
www.hotelverdipisa.com/ its alternative name ‘Palazzo unusual antique furniture and a
Built around the remains of an ancient Giuli’ – but was bought by La particularly stunning chandelier in
cloister, this hotel is an excellent Fondazione CariPisa in 2001. the dining room, not to mention
location for visiting the nearby Teatro Since then it has been lovingly original artworks from across the
Verdi. The accommodation here is simple restored and is open to the public centuries adorning every wall.
but comfortable; bedrooms are en-suite, with free admission. There is a Stepping outside and back into
breakfast is provided and additionally
dizzying wealth of artwork within the sunshine, I lingered on the
there is parking provision.
the palace walls and I was glad to bridge in something of a daze after
Double room from €85
have a guide to talk me through the afternoon’s tide of cultural

38 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 NORTHERN TUSCANY 48Hours in Pisa
Intricate detail adorns the
ceiling of the cathedral

The terrace of La Borsa café The sun shines in Piazza dei Martiri della Libertà

treats. Terracotta shades from the unseasonal heat, to seek out DON’T MISS
GETTING THERE
riverside buildings reflect back the flag irises around the pond. A RIVER CRUISE
from the water, bathed in the late Ortico Botanico is an important ➤ BY PLANE Il Navicello
red-gold sunshine. I could see why place for students and botanists, Pisa’s Galileo Galilei is Tuscany’s runs boat trips
the locals love their hometown. I and it is clear that it is a ‘working’ principal airport, and you can book along the Arno
budget flights from a good range of from April to
chatted during my visit to Ilaria, garden. The resident black cat UK destinations. September
who has lived in Pisa for eight years likes to give tours of the gardens, each year. You
and loves it. In the summer she and which enhances an already magical ➤ CITY LINKS
can enjoy the
You can take a bus or train to the city
her friends use their lunch hour atmosphere. My amble around the ‘Pisa by Night’
centre. A train from the airport to
to drive to the beach, just a few grounds left me very refreshed. Stazione Pisa Centrale in the city centre
evening cruise,
kilometres away, and when they I can’t say I was ready to leave or from May to
will get you there in five minutes.
want to relax they head to one of when the time came to catch the October try the
➤ BY TRAIN ‘Tour Natura’
the thermal spas north of the city. bus to the airport. I left with to Parco di San
Central Pisa’s rail links are very good,
the impression that there was so and the journey from Florence takes just Rossore, where
STILL MORE TO SEE much more to see and explore. over an hour. From Rome it is around 3-4 you will be given
The final morning of my visit When I return I want to visit the hours, from Lucca 25 minutes and from the opportunity
dawned more beautiful than ever, thermal spas, to take a boat trip Livorno just 15 minutes. to enjoy the
and I was keen to see the Botanical downriver to the parkland at the wonders of the
➤ BY CAR nature reserve
Garden before I left (www.orto northwest of the city, and watch Pisa is within easy reach of the A11 before you
museobot.sma.unipi.it/). Founded one of the fortnightly horse races and A12 as well as the toll-free FIPILI return to the
in 1543 under Cosimo I de’ Medici that take place there. I will take (Florence, Pisa, Livorno) road. The Via boat.
and occupying its present site since the train to the coast and drink Aurelia SS1 links directly with Rome.
In the centre of Pisa you’ll find there is
1591, the greenery now creeps Prosecco by the sea. And I will
little need for a car – public transport
over its high walls, and there are definitely revisit the places that here is good and the city is not large so
tantalising glimpses from the street have left such a happy and lasting can easily be crossed on foot.
through locked iron gates. A tiny impression on my memory.
entrance leads into what feels like
a secret garden, full of horticultural
splendours and leafy corners. A
bamboo thicket here, an ageing A tiny entrance leads into what feels like a
magnolia there, and a frantic
bee drawn out of hibernation by secret garden, full of horticultural splendours
TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 39
 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

A date with the

Tuscany
NORTHERN TUSCANY The Bees of

Amy McPherson takes a tour of the apiary of Borgo

Pignano and finds a heaven not only for the guests enjoying
the luxury surrounds of this Tuscan retreat, but also a
sustainable paradise for the estate’s bees as well

F
rancesca Orlandini carefully picks up a struggling bee
from the ground, then deposits it in the grass safely away
from human activity. Like a mother hen watching over
her chicks, she watches as the bee slowly recovers from
its ordeal and then buzzes lethargically towards the hives.
This is her job. Francesca is the beekeeper at Borgo Pignano,
a beautiful retreat and apiary in the heart of Tuscany.
“You know, this weather really isn’t very good for these bees,”
she sighs, returning her attention to our conversation. “It confuses
them; it makes them lose their way.”
With our seasons distorted by unusual weather, we are all
feeling the changes in our climate today. We humans – if we can
afford it – simply turn up the heating, switch on the fan or the
air-conditioning, or pay for luxuries that help us cope. For bees,
however, a simple life of following nature’s patterns has become a
Images by Amy McPherson unless otherwise stated. This image courtesy of Borgo Pignano

battle for survival. “They need our help,” says Francesca as she leads
the way from the retreat’s organic vegetable farm towards the hives.

QUALITY OF LIFE
Borgo Pignano is a very special place – a founding member of
Beyond Green, a global portfolio of hotels, resorts, and lodges that
exemplify sustainability leadership. As a self-supporting eco-retreat
where everything is managed with a sustainable future at heart,
Borgo Pignano strives to give nature a helping hand at the same
time as providing the quality of life you would expect from a luxury
hideaway in Tuscany.
Alongside the alluring Tuscan cliché of the soaring cypress trees
that line the driveway towards reception, the apricot honey walls
and the sweeping outlook towards the surrounding undulating hills,
are the solar-powered and chip-fired boilers that heat and power
the estate. A large organic farm produces provisions for the kitchen;
water supplies are harvested from rainfall; and a team of passionate

40 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Beekeeping is central to the holistic, NORTHERN TUSCANY The Bees of

Tuscany
organic farming philosophy at the
Borgo Pignano estate in Tuscany

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 41

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Tuscany
NORTHERN TUSCANY The Bees of

people work on the ‘reduce, reuse the restaurant, they are also used to
Image courtesy of Borgo Pignano

and recycle’ method to maintain a make essential oils for the spa and
low environmental impact. the handmade natural soaps you
To see it all for myself, I go will find in the resort’s bathrooms.
for a ride on a resident horse. His Kirsten loves to meet the guests
name is Mumbo – a strong, young of the estate when they wander into
stallion with shiny black coat. Just the garden compounds, especially if
up ahead of us are the estate’s riding they bring their children.
instructor, Barbara Cautillo, and “I think the more people see the
her beautiful chestnut mare. farming process – the more they
We begin by walking the horses see when the strawberries will be
around the farm, where head ripe and when the tomatoes will
gardener Kirsten Bartels is busy fruit – the better they understand
tending a well-stocked vegetable the idea of the seasonal availability
bed. It is early spring and there of produce. When they can see it
isn’t much yet to offer the chef, happen, then they understand that
and Kirsten admits that from time one of the best ways to help the
to time they do need to purchase natural environment is to eat what
ingredients elsewhere, but the idea is available”, she explains.
is to use as much of the farm’s own “When you are buying from
produce as possible. To this end supermarkets and everything is
they employ a ‘no harm’ farming available every day, think just how
philosophy and, as far as possible, much carbon footprint and storage
grow fruit and vegetable varieties resources it takes to transport that
that are native to Tuscany. produce and keep it fresh. It is
“Look, the artichokes are simply not sustainable.”
almost there!” Kirsten caresses an Continuing our ride, we pass the
immature purple globe of the spiky beautiful villas that are restored and
plant. “If you’re still here next week, decorated using locally sourced and
you’ll be having these for dinner.” environmentally friendly materials,
The herbs in the garden not and powered by renewable energy.
only flavour the dishes served at We pass the pigsty and the fields

42 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

THE BEES WHO

WENT IN SEARCH
OF CHESTNUTS

NORTHERN TUSCANY The Bees of

Il Borro, Borgo
Pignano’s neighbour

Tuscany has a long history of beekeeping

and so it is no wonder that an hour
from Borgo Pignano is another estate,
Il Borro, whose bees are also creating
wonders for the delight of the chefs and
their guests.
Vittoria Ferragamo Debolini’s father
bought the estate, which includes its
own medieval village, from one of the
last noble families of northern Italy
in 1993, and painstakingly turned it

Tuscany
into one of the more unusual resort
experiences in Tuscany. As part of the
operation, all the estate’s land has
been going through a lengthy organic
of grains and cereals grown to be see how non-harmful ways of Images, clockwise
from far left: conversion for farming.
milled into the estate’s own flour. beekeeping work, and why these Among the many products the estate
We trot through a small section small creatures have such an impact produces is its own organic honey, and I
The Borgo Pignano
of the forest and eventually end on our own lives. estate lies 4km learn that honey is like wine: each year
up back at the stable, where I Not only is climate change from Volterra can be completely different.
give Mumbo a head nudge before disturbing their natural life pattern, “A few years ago, our bees decided
beginning my walk back to farm. like all creatures, bees experience Polytunnels mean to surprise us,” says Vittoria. “During
that year, we collected the honey and
On my walk, I can hear the stars many immediate dangers in their an earlier harvest
went through a tasting and certification
of the show constantly buzzing in springtime

Bees face many

process so we could label it. Normally
about the flower beds – the bees, we get mixed-flower honey, because
The bees are kept
busily producing the organic honey away from centres bees are generally not very selective.
of Borgo Pignano, which guests
enjoy at breakfast and which is dangers and one of habitation But we tasted it, and realised, ‘Oh! This
is chestnut honey!’ And for sure, the

small mistake
testing certified it to be chestnut honey,
used in chef ’s special recipes. Discovering
the estate on which is really surprising because
“I think people need to the nearest chestnut trees are five
horseback
understand that being organic
is not just something we do for
marketing,” explained Francesca.
can kill the These little fellows
kilometres away.”
For honey to be certified as a mono-
floral honey it must contain a certain
“Not using harmful chemicals and
man-made fertilisers means our
bees can do their work in a safe
entire colony drive everything
that happens here

View over the

percentage of the single variety pollen.
Which means, in that particular year,
the bees of Il Borro decided that they
swimming pool liked the pollen from the flower of the
environment without any risks.” short lives. On average, a bee’s life chestnut tree more than they did that of
span is forty days. During this time, Tending the any other flower. It seems everything is
RESPONSIBLE BEEKEEPING they face the modern dangers of seedlings in the entirely up to the bees. “Bees really are
Another experience you can have the pesticides, chemicals and other greenhouse quite extraordinary!” Vittoria laughs.
here is to witness beekeeping at toxic materials that they come www.ilborro.it
first hand – to learn the difference across during their days’ dashing
that responsible beekeeping can between the flowers. And one Bee hives at Il Borro
make to both the lives of the bees small mistake can end up killing
and to our environment. You can the entire colony.
put on a white beekeeping suit “If a bee happens to digest
and get up close to the hives and something that is toxic to

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 43

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

them – it might be something

Image courtesy of Borgo Pignano

that is already in the flower they
are working with – they will die,”
Francesca explains. “But the worst
Tuscany

thing is when they bring this back

to the hives. If they deposit infected
pollen, they produce honey that is
also infected, and then the entire
NORTHERN TUSCANY The Bees of

colony dies together.”

Ensuring that the landscape
surrounding the bees are organically
maintained is one way to protect
them from this misfortune.

MOCK-CHARGE

In the natural run of things, bees do have their As we chat about the lives of bees,
two bees mock-charge me from

ownMinistry of Defence to take care of them the nearest hive. These are guard
bees. They are there to defend and
protect the colony – in the natural
run of things, bees do have their
own Ministry of Defence to take
Image courtesy of Borgo Pignano

Image courtesy of Borgo Pignano

care of them. We won’t come to any

harm, but in the interest of their
Images, clockwise welfare as much as our own, we
from top: move away. If a bee stings you, it
dies, sacrificing its life for the safety
Calming the bees
before working
of the colony.
with them We watch the hives for a little
longer before starting the ritual of
Taking the honey saying goodbye. Francesca looks
from the hive once more towards the hives, with a
gaze I can only describe as the look
The finished
product
of a mother being very protective
and proud of her children.
Putting the bees “I really love them,” she says.
back to work “They are like my babies.”

INFORMATION
➤ Borgo Pignano, Località Pignano 6,
56048 Volterra, Pisa, Tuscany
www.borgopignano.com
www.staybeyondgreen.com

GETTING THERE
Image courtesy of Borgo Pignano

➤ Borgo Pignano is 80km from

Pisa airport, about 1½ hours by car.
Transfers can be arranged to and
from the estate for a fee. Or take the
train to Pisa Central, then another to
Poggibonsi, then a bus to Volterra.
Borgo Pignano is a 4km walk from there.

44 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

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 Over the rooftops
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Welcome to FLORENCE

46 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 Welcome to FLORENCE
FIESOLE p66

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TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 47

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
FLORENCE 48 Hours in Florence

Clockwise, from
top left:
Frescoes by
Image by Freya Middleton

Vasari at the
Duomo
Neptune’s
Fountain, Piazza
della Signoria
Ponte Vecchio
Tasty snacks at
Cantinetta dei
Verrazzano
The bronze
boar in Mercato
Nuovo
Boboli Gardens
Delicious pasta
at Ristorante dei
Frescobaldi
Ponte Vecchio
jewellery

48 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 FLORENCE 48 Hours in Florence
© iStock Photo
48 HOURS IN…
Images by Jenny Oldaker unless otherwise stated. Additional material, Jenny Oldaker

Florence
Freya Middleton explores the heart of Florence while
Image by Freya Middleton

following in the footsteps of some of the Renaissance city’s

most illustrious and influential families

W
orking as a private tour guide in Florence, the
historical centre is my office. What I find increasingly
fascinating about this city, the humanist capital of
Europe in the 15th century, is that one is always
reminded of how great man can be, and what he can
achieve. In our throwaway society of today, which is in constant flux and
renewal, priority is, more often than not, given to instant gratification
rather than a long-reaching vision. But in Florence there is a wonderful
sensation of the eternal and the ever-lasting.
To be sure, man has always been, and will always be, ambitious, power-
hungry and in constant search of ways to cheat immortality, and the fabric
of Florence was built on desires such as these, no different to today. The
banking and wool manufacturing magnate families of the 14th and 15th
century in Florence were ruthless and cunning, but they knew that they
were doing business and making money and were part of the structuring of
a republic that very few others had achieved since ancient times.

POWERFUL FAMILIES
There was certainly a move towards individualism during this humanist
period, but at the same time civic pride and public virtue were being

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 49

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO EAT
CANTINETTA DEI VERRAZZANO 1
Via dei Tavolini 18/20r
www.verrazzano.com
Satisfying, centrally placed snacks at
a good price. Popular with locals, it offers
focaccia and pastries on the go,
FLORENCE 48 Hours in Florence

or snacks and wine.

€ The grand
TRATTORIA ANGIOLINO 2 frontage of the
Pitti Palace
Via Santo Spirito 36r
www.casatrattoria.com/ristorante-
trattoria-angiolino/
A welcoming, homely trattoria with
eclectic, rustic décor. Good for hearty
local food, and good helpings of Tuscan
specialities. A lively atmosphere.
€ €

BORGO SAN JACOPO 3

Borgo San Jacopo 62/R
www.lungarnocollection.com/
borgo-san-jacopo
A fabulous setting by the Arno, and
Michelin-starred food, this is the place
for a special meal. Light, contemporary
versions of classic Italian dishes, plus Night falls over Ponte alle Grazia
excellent service.
€ € €
DON’T MISS reborn and were strongly felt. to God. For Michelangelo, a deeply
AL TRANVAI 4 These families’ statements of religious man, life was never the
FIESOLE
Piazza Torquato Tasso 14r wealth, such as the construction of same after living with the Medici
If you have
+39 055 225197
a little more their palatial merchant homes and family and learning the new
Save an evening for this cosy venue time on your
on the Oltrarno, where you’ll find
the enormous donations they made Christian humanist thought. He
hands and want to the religious orders, were for a believed his god-given talent was
a good selection of delicious rustic to head out
Tuscan dishes. Locals love it, and the of the city for
threefold reason: a self-conscious sculpture, the reason why it was
atmosphere is infectious. a few hours, display of material wealth for all he ever wanted to do.
€ Fiesole makes self promotion and status; an The best way to feel Florence
a fantastic attempt to create a balance sheet is to step into the lives of the
RISTORANTE PIZZERIA I GHIBELLINI 5 excursion. This by offsetting their earthly gain and Florentines, both past and present,
Piazza San Pier Maggiore 8/10R hillside town
www.ighibellini.com
practice of usury for a fast-track by visiting their homes, or as close
is just to the
Its picturesque piazza setting makes I north of the
to heaven; and the new way of to that as we can.
Ghibellini a lovely place. The restaurant city and offers viewing man’s place and increased
serves traditional Tuscan fare, but its unparalleled importance in the world. Florence THE HEART OF FLORENCE
pizzas are delicious. A good wine list too. views of is the epicentre of the rediscovery Start with a visit to the Palazzo
€ € Florence and the of man’s capacity. Davanzati, a perfect example of a
wider Tuscan Christianity was now mixing very wealthy Florentine merchant
RISTORANTE DEI FRESCOBALDI 6 countryside.
Piazza della Signoria 31
with ancient Greek philosophy, family’s home from the 14th
You’ll also find
www.frescobaldifirenze.it a plethora of
and Neoplatonism took root in century. When much of the rest of
On the corner of Piazza della Signoria. options for food the city at the begin of the 15th Europe’s merchant class were living
Be tempted by classic dishes in the and drink here. century. Using your god-given in wooden structures, Florentine
elegant restaurant, or tasty tapas at talent to maximum capacity, businessmen walked on paved
the bar. A place for locals and tourists. whatever it was, would be how you streets and lived in stone homes
€ € would get to heaven. Success began with dumb-waiters, courtyard wells
GELATERIE 7
to be viewed not as an earthly and fireplaces in most rooms.
Among the top-notch gelaterie in
➤ KEY TO vice, but as actively exercising and Next, turn the corner for
RESTAURANT PRICES increasing your inner god-nature a mid-morning coffee in the
Florence, favourites include Grom (full meal per person,
(Via del Campanile), Gelateria Santa not including wine)
(mind and spirit) and dominating courtyard café of the 15th-century
Trinita in Piazza Frescobaldi (11-12r) € Up to €25
your matter (body). Palazzo Strozzi. This is the
and Perchè No! which you’ll find at Via € € €26-€50 Innovation, sophistication and largest Renaissance palace in the
dei Tavolini 19r. € € € More than €50 greatness were almost like prayers city and was built by the Strozzi

50 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL LUNGARNO 8
Borgo San Jacopo 14
The city from
www.lungarnocollection.com/
atop the Duomo
hotel-lungarno
This chic hotel owned by the Ferragamo
family has much to recommend it.

FLORENCE 48 Hours in Florence

For one thing, its location is unmatched

Image by Freya Middleton

– overlooking Ponte Vecchio and within
easy reach of many of the main sights.
Rooms are elegant, staff are helpful and
Freya at Hotel Continentale’s rooftop the bar’s terrace is the perfect aperitivo
bar La Terrazza; inset, the cow detail
spot. If you’re in Florence for the art the
on the cathedral’s north side
Lungarno has an added USP – its walls
are filled with original works by artists
such as Picasso and Cocteau.
HOTEL DAVID 9
Viale Michelangiolo 1
www.hoteldavid.com
You’ll get a warm welcome and fantastic
service at Hotel David. The hotel is
situated in a quiet Oltrarno street, away
from the bustle of the city centre (you
should be able to walk to Florence’s
A Florentine mime main sights within about half an hour).
artist prepares for work Focaccia at Verrazzano It offers a relaxing, homely stay in the
city, with charming rooms, a friendly
atmosphere and tasty breakfasts.
family, one of the most important only, Stefano Ricci. ‘The king of DON’T MISS
and influential families in this ties’ designs elegant menswear, HOTEL CASCI 10
THE COW’S HEAD
century. It is built in the prized as well as the décor of his shops Via Cavour 13
On the north
www.hotelcasci.com
local sandstone, and according to around the world. The flagship side of the
Duomo, look A delightful, family-run hotel right in
the new humanist principles of store here is elegance personified. the heart of the city. Rooms at the Hotel
proportion to exude the sensation His advertising campaigns are up (roughly
above where the Casci are clean and comfortable with all
of balance and harmony that works of art too, with a notable crowds queue mod-cons, and the service is friendly
reflect man’s renewed view of one dedicated to the 20th-century for the cupola) and efficient. Via Cavour is a fairly busy
himself in the world as the master Belgian artist, René Magritte. and see if you and noisy road, but few of the rooms
of his own destiny. The café is can spot the look over it.
owned by another internationally MEETING THE MEDICI small cow’s head
sculpture that HOTEL DEI MACCHIAIOLI 11
renowned Florentine, designer Next stop is Palazzo Medici- Via Cavour 21
sits atop one of
Roberto Cavalli, who adds to Riccardi, the first important the supporting +39 055 213154
the wealth and importance of home of the Medici family, built columns. This Another hotel that is handily located on
Florence in the fashion world. by Cosimo the Elder, the great addition to the Via Cavour, in an elegant 19th-century
The palazzo is used for important artistic patron, humanist advocate, façade is there building with frescoed ceilings, this
temporary exhibitions and there is and ruthless unofficial ruler of to honour all three-star establishment boasts 14 large,
a museum gift shop that stocks a the Florentine republic. Built 40 the animals who comfy rooms and helpful staff who aim to
helped carry the
small collection of Italian jewellery years before the Strozzi palace, it make your stay as enjoyable as possible.
stones in the
designers, both known and up-and- is the first building in the city to building of the
This is a good choice if you’re looking for
coming, as well as other gifts. break from all previous medieval a relaxed, welcoming break.
cathedral.
En route to the next stop (the construction and build from RELAIS SANTA CROCE 12
first important Medici family scratch with, as the ancients had Via Ghibellina 87
palace) walk down the street Via done, proportion as the guide. www.baglionihotels.com/branches/
de’Pescioni to check out another From the exterior the palazzo relais-santa-croce-florence/
Florentine fashionista, for men seems a little less elegant than Just a couple of minutes’ walk from
the grandeur of Santa Croce, this luxe
option in an 18th-century residence is

The best way to feel Florence is to step into a suitably opulent base from which to
enjoy Florence. Sumptuous décor and

the lives of Florentines, past and present an elegant, refined atmosphere add to
the experience.

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 51

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
11
10
WHAT TO SEE AND DO 19

PIAZZA DEL DUOMO 13

The complex of Santa Maria del Fiore
is the focal point of tourist Florence. 13 14
The main draw is the Duomo itself – it’s
free to enter but you need to purchase 7
a combined ticket (€30) to climb up
FLORENCE 48 Hours in Florence

to Brunelleschi’s cupola, visit Giotto’s 5

1
Campanile and the Baptistery. 7
MUSEO DELL’OPERA DEL DUOMO 14 6 12
www.museumflorence.com
Much of the fabulous artwork inside 4
2 18
the buildings of the cathedral complex 7
16
Map data © Google 2023

is now housed in this museum (also 3 8 15

in the €30ticket.) Among the exhibits
are Ghiberti’s door panels and
Michelangelo’s ‘Pièta’. 9
UFFIZI & ACCADEMIA 15 17
www.uffizi.it/en
www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.it
Florence’s two biggest art galleries
are packed with masterpieces, so it’s
DON’T MISS the Strozzi Palace. The stone is men in Florence at the time, who
difficult to avoid the crowds. Book online ARNO WILDLIFE more rustic and there is a more were intimates of the Medici
and make a reservation to skip the Look closely marked gradation in the ashlar family. The choice of subject
queues. Combined ticket for the Uffizi, into the River blocks, making it appear heavier, as matter visually states what couldn’t
Pitti Plalace and Boboli Gardens €38. Arno and see if well as being less of a sharp break be verbalised: that the republic of
Accademia tickets €12 you glimpse any from what had been the traditional Florence was a crypto-monarchy
of the river’s
PONTE VECCHIO 16 wildlife. As well
style of housing. Was this Cosimo’s with the Medici as kings.
This famous bridge is packed with as fish species intention, as the king of cunningly It is fun to think that
tourists and jewellery shops – a far cry such as catfish planned understatement? Did Michelangelo was living here as
from its origins. Built in 1347, it was a and carp, you he commission Michelozzo, his a young 15-year-old, training in
hub for butchers’ shops (the river was may see large, favourite architect who had shared sculpture during the day and privy
the ideal way to get rid of meaty waste). furry creatures in a workshop with Donatello, to to the humanist discussions of
and around the
Like this until the time of the Medici,
water. They’re
build a palatial merchant home Neoplatonism in the evenings.
who preferred the smell – and the higher reflecting the new principles of
not otters, nor
rents – of the jewellery trade. humanism, while at the same time TAKING A BREAK
beavers or rats,
PITTI PALACE & BOBOLI GARDENS 17 but nutria, desiring to reflect the traditional Now it’s time for a snack at the
www.uffizi.it/en large rodents Florentine medieval architecture Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, one
One of the Medici residences, this grand introduced from as seen in the town hall (Palazzo of my favourites for coffee, a
North America
palazzo is now home to several museums. della Signoria) to reflect his hidden wine, a quick bite or lunch. The
in the 1920s and
Don’t miss the Palatine Gallery, packed
now living wild in
control of the Florentine state? Verrazzano family, centuries later,
with grand master works of art. Enjoy the The political intent and still lives in its fabulous villa in the
the river.
Boboli Gardens as well after your visit. self-conscious display of power heart of the Chianti countryside
BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE 18 becomes all the more apparent and exports its wine around the
www.santacroceopera.it when visiting the jewel of the world. Here in the cantinetta
With its wide open piazza in front, and interior, the family chapel. This was you can sip one of the family’s
an inviting pastel façade, the approach the first private chapel in a home Chianti reserve reds while fuelling
to this Gothic church is especially in the Renaissance, exquisitely up on wood-fired, filled focaccia
grand. Entrance is €8 and inside you’ll decorated in 1459-60 by Benozzo slices (peas and robiola cheese
find frescoes by Giotto, plus works by Gozzoli, depicting the journey of – delicious), or mixed plates of
Donatello and Cimabue and more. the three wise men to adore baby salumi. Incidently, the label of the
PALAZZO MEDICI-RICCARDI 19 Christ. Many figures in the crowd Verrazzano Chianti reserve has the
www.palazzo-medici.it are portraits of the most influential etching of ancestor Giovanni da
The first important home of the Medici,
with its construction supervised by the
capofamiglia himself, Cosimo the Elder.
The building will give you a true flavour The modern and ancient co-exist beautifully
of Florence from the Renaissance period.
Entry €7. Concessions available.
in that Italian way of eff ortless mastery
52 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023
 FLORENCE 48 Hours in Florence
One of Florence’s ‘Autumn’ statue on Crowds enjoy the sun
favourite gelaterie Ponte Santa Trinita on Ponte Vecchio

Verrazzano, an explorer, the first place is better to toast the evening you’ll only see their ‘homegrown’ DON’T MISS
to sail down the Hudson River in than from this roof-top terrace wine on their list. You won’t be JEWELLERY
New York in 1524. above a medieval tower house, now disappointed, however, as the Find some time
A stone’s throw from here is part of the Hotel Continentale family vintners are internationally to browse the
the newest museum in the city in owned by the Ferragamo group. renowned for both reds and whites. gilded joys of
the jewellers’
one of the oldest buildings. The Salvatore Ferragamo, although If you want to come to Florence
windows on the
Gucci Museum was inaugurated from southern Italy, after going to to eat, drink and be surrounded Ponte Vecchio.
in September 2011 to celebrate 90 America and making his name in by beauty, just walk in the shoes of Even if you’re
years of business. When working Hollywood for his shoes, returned those who know best, from the past not buying,
at the Savoy Hotel in London, to Italy in 1927 and made Florence and present, the families who make the sparkling
Florentine-born Guccio Gucci was his home because of the rich Florence who she is today. wares are worth
impressed by the luxurious luggage history of leather workmanship. a look. For a
jeweller with
of high-end travellers. Returning to Three generations later, the family- GETTING THERE real historic
Florence, he opened a shop in 1921 run international shoe and fashion pedigree,
selling travel goods, handbags and empire diversified in 1995, adding ➤ BY PLANE
however, head to
British Airways flies to Florence from
leather goods using the most skilled hotels to the business portfolio. London City. A greater range of flights
Torrini (Piazza
local artisans: the rest is history. This boutique luxury hotel, at the operates between UK airports and Pisa,
Duomo 10r)
The museum was renamed in foot of the Ponte Vecchio bridge, by the Duomo.
from which Florence is easily accessible.
It’s one of the
2018 and is now known as the boasts modern décor of the utmost From Pisa airport you can take the train
eight oldest
Gucci Garden. It is housed in the style and class, and the view and (€8.60 one way –about an hour and a
businesses in
the historic medieval court house, atmosphere is top-notch. half, either direct or changing at Pisa
the world, and
Centrale) or the Airport Bus Express
Palazzo della Mercanzia, which Ready for supper, it seems service (€24 return, about 70 minutes).
has been going
dealt in business matters and is fitting to stay with the theme since 1369.
located in the town hall square. of family and dine at one ➤ BY CAR OR TRAIN
You can drive to Florence from Pisa in
You can admire the coats of arms of my favourite restaurants,
a little over an hour, and it is easily
of the 21 trade guilds hanging on Ristorante dei Frescobaldi. The accessible from main roads in Tuscany,
the ground floor in the Gucci café Frescobaldis moved to the city but driving in Florence itself isn’t
while sipping a prosecco. There from the countryside in the 13th recommended. Santa Maria Novella
are three floors to visit and with century to make money in cloth train station is well placed for the city
information cards at the entrance manufacturing. One of the leading and is well served by high-speed trains
to each room to take home as a families in the city ever since, across Italy, so provides a far better
option.
souvenir. The modern and ancient talented family members have been
co-exist beautifully in that Italian making wine since 1308 and some ➤ GETTING AROUND
way of effortless mastery. still live in the palatial merchant You can pretty much walk everywhere
you need to in the city centre, but if
home that they built in the 16th
you want to go further or get around
A HEALTHY APPETITE century in the Oltrarno quarter. faster, try hiring a bike or using the
When the sun starts to set, it’s The restaurant serves fabulous comprehensive bus system.
is time to go to La Terrazza. No meals and, as you can imagine,

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 53

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

TOP 10 MUSEUMS
FLORENCE Top Ten Museums

1 GALLERIE DEGLI UFFIZI

Piazzale degli Uffizi 6 With some of the world’s most impressive museums
www.uffizi.it housed in the streets of Florence, we choose our top ten to
With over 1.5 million visitors a year
enjoying its treasures, the Uffizi is one help you create your very own cultural itinerary…
of the most significant art museums
in the world. It houses some of the
most influential Renaissance pieces, 2 THE BARGELLO MUSEUM della Robbia, Cellini, Michelangelo
including Filippino Lippi’s Madonna Via del Proconsolo 4 and Giambologna. There’s also a
and Child with Two Angels and www.bargellomusei. host of important decorative art
Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. Visit as beniculturali.it/ displayed in the museum. An array
often as you can – you’ll never tire Set in one of the oldest buildings in of bronzes, majolica, waxes, enamels,
of the beauty on display. There are 45 Florence, the Palazzo del Podesta medals, seals, tapestries and textiles
rooms, each displaying three or four (1255), previously an 18th-century from the Medici collections and also
Images © iStock

masterpieces, so take the time prison, this venerable location is from private donors. The prisoners of
to appreciate them all. now the setting for an impressive days gone by won’t have enjoyed this
collection of sculptures by Donatello, place, but you most certainly will.

54 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 7 PALAZZO PITTI

GALLERIA DELL’ACCADEMIA
3 Piazza Pitti
Via Ricasoli 58-60 www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti
www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.it/ The Pitti Palace is home to several
Famously home to Michelangelo’s sculpture different collections of art, sculpture
David, this is one of Florence’s best-known museums. and more, including the Galleria
The Accademia provides many drawings, sculptures and mostly Palatina, Galleria d’Arte Moderna,
religious paintings dating from the 13th and 16th centuries, with Galleria del Costume and the Museo

FLORENCE Top Ten Museums

works by Botticelli, Pontormo, Giambologna and Lorenzo Lotto. delle Porcellane. Leave plenty of time
More of Michelangelo’s works are also displayed in the gallery, to tour this extensive and impressive
including the four Prisoners and St Matthew, and they are not to be range of attractions before taking a
missed. There is also the collection of sculptures in plaster by 19th- relaxing stroll around the Boboli
century sculptors Lorenzo Bartolini and Luigi Pampaloni. Gardens behind the palace. Entry to both
and the Uffizi with a combined ticket.

4 MUSEO DI SAN MARCO – including his masterwork 8 CASA BUONARROTI

Piazza San Marco 3 Crucifixion. Other artists are also Via Ghibellina 70
Book in advance: www.b-ticket. exhibited, including works from www.casabuonarroti.it
com/b-ticket/uffizi/ Domenico Ghirlandaio – with The immeasurably famous works of
First opened to the public in 1869, a version of the Last Supper – Michelangelo are displayed in the
the Museum of San Marco displays and Fra Bartolomeo. You can Casa Buonarroti, including pieces of
the largest collection of religious also visit the simple cells where extreme artistic importance like the
and sacred art in Florence. It’s most Girolamo Savonarola lived and Madonna of the Stairs and Battle of
famous for a major collection of where Cosimo il Vecchio retired to the Centaurs. Every year the museum
works and frescoes by Fra Angelico meditate. organises an exhibition on aspects of
the life and art of Michelangelo and
on the cultural and artistic heritage of
4 Casa Buonarroti, which Michelangelo
6 owned but never occupied.
3
9 MUSEO NOVECENTO

Piazza Santa Maria Novella 10

www.museonovecento.it/en/collezioni/
9 Alberto della Ragione donated his
5
entire collection to Florence in 1970 in
the aftermath of the flood of 1966
and it is now housed in the Museo
2
8 Novecento. The collection is of modern
works most extensively from 1930-45
– including artists such as Giorgio De
1 Chirico and Giorgio Morandi – as well
10
as an array of exceptional sculptures,
Map data © Google 2023

including two works by Arturo Martini

and the terracotta version of the Pisana.
7

10 MUSEO GALILEO

Piazza dei Giudici 1

www.museogalileo.it
5 OPERA DEL DUOMO 6 MUSEO STIBBERT The Institute and Museum
MUSEUM Via Federigo Stibbert 26 of the History of Science
Piazza del Duomo 9 +39 055 475520 has been renamed after the
www.duomo.firenze.it www.museostibbert.it eminent scientist to whom many
Home to an stunning collection This house-museum was created by of its displays are dedicated. It is home to the only
of unique masterpieces in 28 Frederick Stibbert, who remodelled surviving instruments he used, including early
rooms over three floors, including it into a neo-Gothic castle. Holding telescopes and experiments into gravity. There are
Lorenzo Ghiberti’s Gates of an eclectic collection of treasures, collections of bikes, maps and clocks and even
Paradise from the Baptistery and including the Sala della Cavalcata Galileo’s tooth, thumb and middle finger.
Donatello’s Mary Magdalene. hall of Eastern armours.

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 55

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 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

NEW FLORENCE
On a visit to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo,
the pristine Baptistery and the bounteous

FLORENCE
Mercato Centrale, Chris Allsop discovers
the delights of off-season Florence…

New Florence
onio Quatrone
Photograph © Ant
Images by Chris Allsop unless otherwise stated

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 57

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
New Florence
FLORENCE

T
wenty tourists for every if you’re of average height and mired in a
local. That was the rough lumbering herd of art-dazed sightseers.
estimate I received in May Francesca’s recommendation was October
from Francesca, my guide, for the best chance of good weather and
for the numbers you’d expect fewer tourists. Fortunately, I was able to
to encounter on an average day in Florence’s return to visit the Tuscan capital again in
historic centre during high season. This November and there were still a few tour
Tuscan city certainly gets crowded. groups, but I could stroll freely through
This is Florence, after all – a museum the streets. The weather was a mix, as you’d
La Sala della
Maddalena di
director’s fever dream of astounding expect: mostly sunny, occasionally overcast,
Donatello, Museo Renaissance art and architecture, and off and on showers – cool but not cold, with
dell’Opera del one of the world’s easiest cities on the eye. distant snowy peaks drawing my attention to
Duomo, Firenze That can be hard to appreciate, however, the Apennines for the first time.

58 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 This isn’t a winter sun trip by any means, entire
New Florence FLORENCE
but for those wanting the space to enjoy trip.
Florence for its world-class culture and At the end
cuisine, off- and shoulder-seasons trips (with of October 2015,
reduced hotel prices to boot) are strongly the €45 million two-year
recommended. And if the weather is less refurbishment of the Museo
than magnificent, well, who cares – indoors dell’Opera del Duomo (aka the
in Florence is not like indoors just anywhere. Duomo Museum to English speakers) was
Image © Antonio Quatrone

finally completed. Inside this strikingly

THE DUOMO MUSEUM modern museum, you’ll explore the world’s
And I’m not just referring to the Uffizi largest collection of Florentine sculptures
Gallery – although that magnificent museum from the Medieval and Renaissance periods
could probably keep you entertained for your spread over 25 exhibition halls.

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 59

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Image © Antonio Quatrone

Detail of the The doors of the
Baptistery ceiling Baptistery
New Florence
FLORENCE

Fresh pasta at
the Mercato

More treats at
the Mercato

The Silver Altar in

the Baptistery

WHERE TO EAT Sounds overwhelming? Actually, thanks until 1997, when an 18th century theatre
to the layout’s careful planning, it’s quite adjacent to the museum was acquired, that the
THE FUSION BAR & RESTAURANT
the opposite. The elegant design layers over dimensions required to exhibit the façade in
Vicolo dell’Oro, 3
itself, offering new perspectives on halls full (the project was abandoned after reaching
www.lungarnocollection.com
An upbeat and popular place to start
you’ve previously walked through, and varied only a third of its height) was secured. You can
off an evening in fair Florence with lighting throughout the galleries is just one now view “the largest work of art in Florence”
mixologists crafting bespoke cocktails of the tricks employed to engage visitors. where it’s been reconstructed in a bright, airy
and a raw bar serving classic and more The original museum was founded in 1891, space reminiscent of the Tate’s Turbine Hall.
innovative dishes including sashimi, but its lack of exhibition space meant that its You’d think the façade would be the main
oysters and vegan bites. concept was always unfulfilled. draw, but the museum is so full of marvels
€ € “Worse yet,” explained Timothy Verdon, that it all depends on what you like, really.
BORGO SAN JACOPO RESTAURANT
the museum’s American director, who was Fancy a bit of Michelangelo? Check out the
Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r kind enough to give me a short guided tour, room dedicated to the sculptor’s Florentine
www.lungarnocollection.com “the old rooms were too small for the works Pietà – this work, intended for the great
Looking out over the River Arno, this shown, many of which are larger than life artist’s own tomb, portrays Michelangelo,
one Michelin star restaurant offers and meant to be seen from a distance.” in disguised self-portrait, as Nicodemus
a deliciously indulgent fine dining This includes the centrepiece – the original lowering Christ’s body down from the cross.
experience you won’t forget. Choose medieval façade of the Duomo. Dismantled Crazy for relics? The contrastingly intimate
from two tasting menus by chef Claudio into 100 fragments in the late 16th century, ‘reliquary chapel’ is a circular display of
Mengoni with inventive dishes such as the façade is one of the great works of art that holy masterpieces. Mad for Renaissance
porcini mushroom ice cream and fig never was, comprising 40 statues, intricate bling? The renovated Silver Altar from
molasses, risotto with sea urchins and mosaic inlay, and a galaxy of other sculpted the Baptistery of St John, which took 104
much more to tempt your palate.
€ € €
elements. Over the years the exhibition space years of work by some of Florence’s greatest
increased from two rooms to 18, but it wasn’t Renaissance masters to complete, awaits you.

60 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

The elegant design offers new perspectives on
halls you’ve previously walked through

FLORENCE
Three views of the
Portrait Firenze Hotel

New Florence
Images above © Portrait Firenze
The original façade of the Duomo, right,
and Ghiberti’s Baptistery doors, left

The Baptistery itself is open, although the Mercato, where the smell of leather is WHERE TO STAY
the restoration of the multicoloured gilded replaced by a cocktail of aromas of freshly
PORTRAIT FIRENZE
mosaics that cover its dome is currently baked bread, margherita pizzas crisping in
Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4
ongoing. With 1,000 square metres of tiles, wood-fired ovens, and other curious food
www.lungarnocollection.com
this exciting work is expected to take around whiffs compelling you to delve deeper into Owned by the Ferragamo family, the
six years and visitors are welcome during this the brightly designed kiosks. The Mercato’s 5-star Portrait Firenze is your insurance
period. The Duomo Museum entry ticket original, French-influenced structure dates policy against poor weather on your
also grants access to the Baptistery – as well to 1874, when it was constructed as a off-season sojourn (views of the Ponte
as Giotto’s Bell Tower, Brunelleschi’s Dome, monument to a new era for the city – the Vecchio allow you to armchair-sightsee
and the Crypt of Santa Reparata – so it’s time when Florence was briefly the capital one of the most beautiful scenes of the
nice to be able to wander into the usually of the newly reunited Italy. Today its city from the comfort of your own room).
serene Baptistery and imagine what the Silver revitalisation has had a ripple effect on The interior décor takes its cue from the
Altar would have looked like beneath that the surrounding neighbourhood, and birth of Italian couture in the 1950s and
mesmerising gold ceiling. Florentines have learned that it’s one of offers a crisp, stylish feel to its plush
the best places in town to hang out. suites. The cool retro ambiance extends
to the reception and in-house Caffè
THE CENTRAL MARKET The conceptual masterminds behind the
dell’Oro (which offers the most extensive
Another relatively recent opening in the Mercato created it not just to show off the selection of honey this breakfasting
city is the Mercato Centrale – a former fish best Tuscany has to offer, but the country journalist has ever enjoyed). At €595
and meat market that has been transformed, as a whole. So inside you’ll find buffalo per night (price is based on two adults
after a renovation in 2014, into a laid-back mozzarella brought up fresh from a farm sharing, excluding breakfast, VAT and
gastro-barn. Squeeze through the stalls and on the outskirts of Naples, World Pastry city tax) it isn’t budget, but what else
leather smells of the outdoor San Lorenzo Champion Cristian Beduschi’s award- would you expect from a hotel that
leather market to find the entrance escalator winning seven-layer ice cream cake, and emails you in advance to find out your
that whisks you up to the first floor of lashings of lampredotto – Florentine tripe preferred pillow filling?

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 61

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

These indoor spaces are capable

of turning an inclement weather
day into a happy opportunity
New Florence

Celebrity shoe lasts in

the Ferragamo Museum
FLORENCE

Best foot forward

with shoes galore

The Duomo stands sentry

over the stormy skies

made from the fourth stomach of the cow, a THE FERRAGAMO MUSEUM
GETTING THERE popular sandwich option in the city. Sad to If digestion is slowing your mental faculties
say, my unadventurous group plumped for post-Mercato, saunter through the Museo
➤ BY PLANE
Direct flights to Pisa G. Galilei airport pizza instead, served up at a kiosk awarded Ferragamo for a refreshing slice of Italian style
(PSA) are available from numerous the national equivalent of a Michelin star. and culture that’s a little less taxing. Located
airports in the UK. From Pisa Centrale Best of all, the exquisite margherita I within the austere stone block that is also
train station, a train to Florence (taking wolfed down was prepared with the creamy the headquarters for the Ferragamo fashion
up to an hour and a half) costs €10 buffalo mozzarella from the cheese stall. empire, the Ferragamo museum may be
(second class only). There’s also a shuttle
There’s a kind of commercial symbiosis named after the legendary shoesmith,
bus that departs from the airport to
Florence every 20 minutes (€14.99
operated at the Mercato in an effort to but actually offers a more diverse experience
one way) and takes just over an hour create the right atmosphere; there’s no than you might expect.
(traffic permitting). rental fee for stall owners (although 30 It’s more of a museum of Salvatore
per cent of their takings do go to the city) Ferragamo crossed with an exhibition about
and they’re encouraged to buy each other’s the history of the building itself – Palazzo
FIND OUT MORE produce and advertise the fact. The artisan Spini Feroni – originally built in 1289 by
food makers and sellers are chosen for their a powerful family of medieval bankers.
➤ MUSEO DELL’OPERA DEL DUOMO produce first and style second. Beneath The museum’s charming eclecticism never
www.duomo.firenze.it all of this collaborative loveliness, there’s baffles, and you can admire wooden models
➤ MERCATO CENTRALE a ruthless streak: if you’re not hitting the of Ingrid Bergman’s flat feet in one room,
www.mercatocentrale.com right note, you will be let go. I heard some a first edition of Tuscan Fairy Tales in the
➤ FERRAGAMO MUSEUM mutterings about unsmiling past tenants next, and a boutique gallery of Futurist
www.museo.ferragamo.com who hadn’t had the correct ‘market attitude’. paintings round the corner, all in about
Beyond the high-level grazing, there’s also a half-hour visit (entry: €8). These are
olive oil and wine tastings available, as well as indoor spaces that are richly Italian, and
superb cooking lessons (investigate the latter capable of turning an inclement weather
at www.cucinaldm.com) all on-site. day into a happy opportunity.

62 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 FA S T C U LT U R E

FLORENCE Casa Guidi

Casa Guidi
Windows
“I heard last night a littl e child go singing
’Neath Casa Guidi windows, by the church,
O bella libertà, O bella!”
TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 63
 FA S T C U LT U R E

T
he courtship of Elizabeth Barrett
and Robert Browning may be the
most thoroughly documented in
history, because it was conducted
almost entirely by letter. And Robert
was certainly a very impetuous wooer; in his very
first letter to her, after reading her poetry and
without ever having met her, he wrote “I do … love
these books with all my heart – and I love you too.”
She, a reclusive invalid in her father’s house, was
FLORENCE Casa Guidi

reluctant. In fact, five months passed – months

filled with daily letters – before Robert was finally
allowed to visit her.
Edward Moulton Barrett, Elizabeth’s father, was
a jealous domestic tyrant, demanding absolute filial
obedience from his children; and she, with a poet’s
insight into the human heart, understood the fear of
loneliness that animated him. She knew he couldn’t
change. After she decided to elope with Robert, she
The entrance to Palazzo Guidi, the
wrote: “May your father indeed be able to love me a Brownings’ home in Florence
little, for my father will never love me again.”
So, when Elizabeth quietly left her Wimpole
Street home on 12th September 1846, to meet and The drawing room of the flat, where
marry Robert Browning at St Marylebone Parish Elizabeth wrote her poetry
church, she was striking a blow for her own libertà.
She might have objected that she was striking
a blow for love, rather than freedom; and who
can read her Sonnets from the Portuguese without
admitting that she loved Robert Browning? But the
wedding was the first real step she took to escape
from her father’s despotic rule. Even then, it was a
rather tentative step: she returned home after the
ceremony, and remained there a week before she
and Robert secretly left London, en route to Italy.
Their first destination was Pisa in Tuscany,
reached after a difficult journey by coach, ship,
and railway. Elizabeth’s mysterious infirmity
was nonetheless real, and she arrived in the city
bruised and exhausted from the trip. Robert
found an apartment for them near the Campo
dei Miracoli. There, over a mild winter, Elizabeth’s
health improved significantly, though she suffered
a miscarriage in the spring.
She recovered, however, and they undertook
a tour of northern Italy; and in Florence, in 1847, Portrait of Elizabeth in the bedroom Portrait bust
they found the home they would share until of Elizabeth
Elizabeth’s death in 1861: a roomy flat on the by William
piano nobile of the 16th-century Palazzo Guidi, Wetmore
Story
on Piazza San Felice, near the Pitti Palace. Elizabeth
named their flat “Casa Guidi”.
Here they both wrote some of their most
important works, including Elizabeth’s Casa
Guidi Windows, in which she figuratively watched,
through her home’s windows, the rise and fall
Images by Patricia Gartman

of Italy’s struggle for independence. Here she

also wrote a very successful long poem, the
romantic Aurora Leigh. Robert, meanwhile,
composed Men and Women, his great collection
of “dramatic monologues”, including such

64 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 CASA GUIDI
➤ Casa Guidi now belongs to Eton College, and is
managed by the Landmark Trust. The apartment has
been restored to reflect, as much as possible, the home
Elizabeth and Robert Browning shared for fifteen years.
It can be visited Monday, Wednesday and Friday
afternoons, 3pm to 6pm, between April and the end
of November, and is available for holiday bookings by
arrangement. Visit www.landmarktrust.org.uk

FLORENCE Casa Guidi

influential poems as Love among the Ruins, Fra
Lippo Lippi, and A Toccata of Galuppi’s. And
Balcony window looking
here, too, they welcomed their only child, Robert
Robert’s study towards Chiesa di San Felice Barrett Browning, whom they called “Pen”.
Casa Guidi became a meeting place for expatriate
British and Americans, such as William Wetmore
Story, the sculptor, and his wife, Emelyn; the poet
Walter Savage Landor; Anthony Trollope’s mother,
Fanny, who was also a well-known author of the
time; and even Nathaniel Hawthorne.
Although Elizabeth enjoyed a productive and
happy life in her beloved Florence, her health
remained fragile, and began to fail by 1858. Her
lungs, which had been weak since her teenage years,
were subject to frequent respiratory infections. In
June of 1861, debilitated by the stress of a difficult
trip to Rome and back, and distraught at the death
Elizabeth’s daybed from Wimpole
Street, now in Casa Guidi
of her sister Henrietta, she caught a bad cold,
possibly while sitting in the draught from a window.
Within days she was struggling to breathe, and,
despite mustard plasters and other nostrums of
the day, her condition worsened, until at last, on
29 June, she lapsed into semi-consciousness.
Robert asked her if she knew him.
“My Robert – my heaven – my beloved,”
she replied. He asked if she was comfortable.
“Beautiful,” she said, and slept. She seemed to
struggle for breath, and Robert felt she needed
to be lifted to a better position. He took her in
his arms, and felt a movement in her chest, as if
she tried to cough. Her head fell against him.
The couple’s bedroom
Their Italian maid, Annunziata, who was in the
room and watching Elizabeth’s face, suddenly
cried out “Quest’ anima benedetta è passata!”
Plaque honouring Elizabeth, (“This blessed soul has passed away!”)
placed by the City of Florence

Elizabeth was 55 years old when she died. Her tomb

is in the English Cemetery of Florence. Robert never
remarried. He died in Venice in 1889, and is buried
in Poets’ Corner, Westminster Abbey.

ABOUT THE WRITER

JOE GARTMAN’s new book, Rome Through
the Mist: Walks Among the Fountains of
the Eternal City, is available from Toplight
Elizabeth’s tomb in Books. See more on Joe’s website at
the English Cemetery www.joegartman.com

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 65

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
FLORENCE Finding Fiesole

Fiesole offers a day away from the bustle of Florence

and is well worth exploring when you get there,
writes Florence tour guide Freya Middleton

G
oing to Fiesole is colonised the Etruscan city on theatre is now part of the stunning Images, clockwise
something I have the hill a few centuries earlier.  outdoor archeological park from above:
always loved, and The Etruscans often built on museum and can be visited daily
Sunset over Fiesole
I’m not alone. hilltops but the Romans preferred by purchasing a ticket. However, is an added extra
The place has level ground. The cities are every summer, in the evenings for to look forward to
been continuously inhabited and approximately 4km apart, an a few weeks, after the ticket office after your day out
constantly visited by foreigners easy bus ride between them. It’s has closed for the day, it is brought
since the Etruscan era more than a place of good vibes!  to life once again in its true spirit. The remains of the
Images by Freya Middleton unless otherwise stated

2,500 years ago. The Etruscans Archeologically speaking, what The Fiesole summer cultural Roman theatre
built their town on one of the we experience today in Fiesole from programme hosts concerts to cater
Roman lamps in
surrounding hills overlooking the ancient times is the Roman period. for all music lovers, with styles the archeological
valley where, centuries later, the However, if we’re ambitious, traces from rock to opera to experimental museum
ancient Romans, during the reign of the Etruscan fortified city walls music, and events are held in the
of Emperor Augustus, would build can be hunted out. Fiesole is really ancient theatre. Florence is hot in Etruscan stele in
Florentia (the original Latin name village-size nowadays, but 2,000 the summer, but there is always the archeological
museum
for Florence) on the flat terrain years ago it was a city large enough a slightly lower temperature
along the Arno River. This was to sustain a theatre that could hold in Fiesole in the evenings, and
after they had conquered and as many 3,000 spectators. This possibly even a breeze, which

66 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 FLORENCE Finding Fiesole
Image © Getty
Though there would have once been a high wall behind the
stage, the backdrop is now the picturesque Tuscan landscape
makes for a very agreeable evening bases of temples and the ruins of
in more ways than one! the Roman bath complex, with
The theatre is made in the its three zones for the separate
Greek style, which means that it is but connected bath pools – hot
built into the hill; this was of water (caldarium), warm water
course due to the geographical (tepidarium) and cold water
limitations of the city. Though (frigidarium).
there would have once been a high Inside the museum there is
wall behind the stage, no longer a wealth of artefacts on display
extant, the backdrop is now the from the Etruscan, Roman and
highly picturesque Tuscan then Lombardian (Medieval)
landscape. The theatre was periods to help colour our picture
deliberately made north-facing so of how the past residents lived
that the sun didn’t go into the in Fiesole. There is a bar in the
spectators’ eyes.  museum built with glass walls
Behind the theatre archeologists where refuelling with a coffee or
have brought to light other urban iced tea is incredibly relaxing as you
sites de rigueur in ancient cities: are surrounded by the natural

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 67

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHAT TO SEE AND DO landscape (facing the same way

ESTATE FIESOLANA
as the theatre) with limited man-
Via Portigiani 1, Fiesole made structures and the lush
www.bitconcerti.it/estate- green hills.
fiesolana-2023.html
The oldest open-air festival in Italy, the GETTING ON THE BUS
76th Estate Fiesolana takes place at I consider a visit to Fiesole really
the Roman amphitheatre from 15 June begins from Florence. Bus number
to 3 August with concerts, theatrical 7 begins its route at the Stazione
FLORENCE Finding Fiesole

performances and other exciting events. Nazionale, just north of Florence

MUSEO CIVICO ARCHEOLOGICO Cathedral. I like to get my seat, sit
Via Portigiani 1, Fiesole back and relax into the lovely ride,
www.museidifiesole.it which will terminate in Fiesole
The archeological museum is open about 30 minutes later. Shortly into
daily in the summer months (between the ride, the bus crosses over the
November and February it is closed on eight-lane ring road that encircles
Tuesdays). There is an admission fee but Florence, which was the site where,
all the Fiesole museums are included in until the mid-1800s, the Medieval
the Firenze Card, www.firenzecard.it high walls of the city stood tall.
MUSEO BANDINI Beyond this now begin the suburbs
Via Giovanni Duprè 1, Fiesole of Florence. And the lovely views
www.museidifiesole.it begin when the bus starts to climb
Small but fascinating, Fiesole’s main art the hill. There are olive groves and
museum, the third of the institutions large family homes, and with every
under the management of Musei di curve in the road the vista opens up
Fiesole, is usually open from Friday to more and more to the landscape of
Sunday, for an admission fee.
the hills of Florence. The big bus
VILLA LE BALZE windows lend themselves well to
Via Vecchia Fiesolana 26, Fiesole  really being able to enjoy the scene.
villalebalze.georgetown.edu This landscape has inspired artists
Now owned by an American research for centuries and can be seen in the
university, this is a working campus, backgrounds of the paintings from
but you can visit the gardens on request the 1400s onwards in the Uffizi.
weekday mornings and afternoons during Halfway up the hill the road
university term time. Admission fee. 
briefly flattens as it passes through
VILLA MEDICI the tiny village of San Domenico.
Via Beato Angelico 2, Fiesole You’ll notice a lot of people get
www.villamedicifiesole.it off the bus here because the EUI
The Villa Medici was built for pleasure (European University Institute)
and privately owned, but you can visit is located here. This is the only
the gardens upon request. Admission fee. European Union funded and
CONVENT OF SAN DOMENICO founded university, and very
Piazza San Domenico 4, Fiesole astutely they decided on the
It’s a half an hour walk to San Domenico location of San Domenico for
but worth it. Open mornings and their grounds. They have their
afternoons, no admission fee. core offices in the 1,000-year-old
CATHEDRAL OF ST ROMULUS abbey renovated and completely
Piazza della Cattedrale 1, Fiesole reconstructed in Renaissance
The Cattedrale di San Romolo has a style by Michelozzo and paid
statue of the saint by Giovanni della for by Cosimo the Elder de’
Robbia and a chapel with works by Medici, the unofficial ruler of
Mino da Fiesole. Open mornings and the Republic of Florence and the
afternoons, no fee. head of the great banking house.
CHURCH AND CONVENT OF ST FRANCIS This was his last great architectural
Via San Francesco 13, Fiesole  and cultural investment before
The Convento di San Francesco is likewise his death in 1464. 
open mornings and afternoons daily, The bus terminates in the
without an admission fee. Piazza Mino da Fiesole, once
the Roman Forum of the city

68 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 FLORENCE Finding Fiesole
The cathedral dominates one side of the piazza – interestingly, although it has
undergone changes, the structure remains in its original Romanesque form
Images, clockwise (the central market and business Robbia from the early 1500s. Not past the very large building of the
from above: square in ancient times). The to be missed is the Salutati Chapel, bishop’s seminary, there is a little
cathedral dominates one side a Renaissance jewel with sculptural road which starts in a very steep
The presbytery and
altar area of the
of the piazza today; due to the work by the local Renaissance ascent from the piazza. Whilst this
cathedral town’s significant importance and master Mino da Fiesole (the is a punishing 200-metre climb, the
population in the medieval period, man the piazza is named after). reward is firstly an exceptional view
The tomb of Mino Fiesole has a cathedral with a Commissioned by a bishop of of San Domenico and Florence
da Fiesole in the bishop. Interestingly, though it has Fiesole, Leonardo Salutati, there below, and secondly, a few stone
Salutati Chapel undergone significant changes over is his tomb, bust and a bas-relief steps later, the church and convent
Two views of
the centuries, the structure remains in the chapel. Mino da Fiesole of San Francesco.
the Roman bath in its original Romanesque form was one of the early Renaissance Stepping into this exquisite,
complex (the artistic period that preceded masters who expressed a new dark little church from the bright
the Gothic style). It is a large sensitivity towards expression and outdoor light always feels magical.
basilica form (rectangular) dividing form in the human body, reflecting The church is small, almost doll-
into three aisles and with an the new Renaissance cultural shift. like. Built in 1399, it is in a single-
elevated presbytery area. Dedicated There is a new nobility in the aisle basilica plan, decorated with
to St Romulus, a disciple of St faces of the people and a sense of three wall chapels on each side. The
Peter, whose mortal remains are self that hadn’t been shown since paintings date to the 1400s, from
safely tucked away here, there is a ancient times. the very early part of that century
fabulous statue of him in tin-glazed to its last decade, and includes two
terracotta on the counter-façade A BIT OF A CLIMB masterpieces from master painters
by the great master Giovanni della Just off that main piazza, running Piero di Cosimo and Raffaellino

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 69

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
FLORENCE Finding Fiesole

The reward is an exceptional view of San Domenico and Florence

below, and, a few stone steps later, the church and convent of San Francesco
del Garbo. A little door to the right time and appropriate shoes, follow was consequently where many
of the church entrance will take the red and white painted marks stonecutting families lived.
you through to the convent, and that always signal a walking track Renaissance masters of sculpture
the spiral stairs lead to the original in Italy, and roughly one hour and architecture with names such
friars’ cells of the 1400s. There is an later you will arrive at Maiano, as Mino da Fiesole or Benedetto
ancient sign above the entrance of the neighbouring hilltop town, da Maiano tells you that they were
one, reminding us that one of the where you can lunch at the Fattoria from humble beginnings because
most famous Italian preachers from di Maiano and then bus back to their family name indicates their
the 15th century, San Bernardino Florence from there. place of origin. Mino from Fiesole
da Siena, briefly lived here. This wood and surrounding and Benedetto from Maiano were
If you wish to spend the whole area is where much of the Pietra clearly men from working-class
day in Fiesole, the Museo Bandini serena (otherwise called Pietra stonecutting families who went
can be added to your itinerary. A macigno) was quarried. This is on to become Renaissance master
stone’s throw from the main piazza the grey sandstone seen all over sculptors and architects.
(everything is a stone’s throw from Florence and was used extensively Leonardo da Vinci also
the main piazza) are housed some by Brunelleschi and Michelangelo did many a flying experiment
wonderful Renaissance paintings in their architecture, and this with his man-made wings in
and glazed terracotta works.

A VISIT TO THE PARK

Image © Getty

I have always loved walking to the

Parco di Montececeri, which is
accessed by another of the roads
from the piazza. Follow the signs
or ask a local which street off the
piazza to take and, again after a
devilishly steep 100 metres, you
are rewarded with stunning views
of Florence and beyond. Ten
minutes later the wood opens up
in front of you. If you have the

70 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 WHERE TO EAT AND STAY
LA REGGIA DEGLI ETRUSCHI
Via San Francesco 18, Fiesole
www.lareggiadeglietruschi.com
The ‘Palace of the Etruscans’ restaurant
is halfway up the hill that leads to the
church and convent of St Francis, so
it’s convenient for walkers, and the view
is quite lovely. It is also well-known for

FLORENCE Finding Fiesole

the quality of its steak.
OSTERIA VINANDRO
Piazza Mino da Fiesole 33, Fiesole
www.facebook.com/
osteriavinandrofiesole/
This friendly trattoria just off Piazza
Mino da Fiesole has an excellent Tuscan
menu. If you want to eat well in Fiesole
itself, without spending a fortune, this
is the place to come.
VILLA SAN MICHELE 
Via Doccia 4, Fiesole
www.belmond.com
This luxurious 5-star hotel is part of the
Belmond group and is set in a villa dating
to the Renaissance period. They have
a separate restaurant, so for lunch or
dinner, or simply an aperitivo, it offers
an option to non-resident guests. 
Images, clockwise Montececeri Park and his willing, Origo. The garden can be visited PENSIONE BENCISTÀ
from top left: but unfortunate, assistants! It’s an upon request, for a small fee. The Via Benedetto da Maiano 4, Fiesole
interesting detour, but if you’re nearby Villa Le Balze, now the www.bencista.com
View of Florence Walking into the Pensione Bencistà
from the top of the
short of time, rather than the climb seat of Georgetown University in
to Maiano, a short walk into the Tuscany, also boasts a beautiful feels like stepping back in time and
steep road to the
wood may suffice. garden, which can be visited on becoming a character in A Room with a
Monastery of St
View or something similar. The rooms
Francis (Convento request, for a small fee, and well
are simple but lovely. The view is
di San Francesco) ONE LAST PLACE TO SEE worth a quick visit.  wonderful and the garden is peppered
Instead of catching the bus back Thirty minutes is all it takes with wisteria. They have a restaurant,
Works by Raffaelino
to Florence from the main piazza, to arrive in San Domenico before but meals for external guests are an
del Garbo and
Piero di Cosimo, my last item to add to your catching the bus back to Florence. option on weekends only. Nevertheless,
Convento di San itinerary is a walk from the main Make sure you have time to step an aperitivo, or a cup of tea, if you
Francesco square down to San Domenico, into the San Domenico church prefer, can be organised in the early
taking the original road that was with its lovely altarpiece in the first evening upon request.
Two views inside a once the only link between San chapel on the left by the great early-
monk’s cell at San GETTING THERE
Domenico and Fiesole (before Renaissance painter Fra Angelico.
Francesco
the current road was built in the The ceiling dates to the early 1700s ➤ BY BUS OR TAXI
(Left) The exterior mid-1800s). The Via Vecchia and is a wonderful cloud swirling Local city bus number 7 from Florence
of the Convento di Fiesolana is a very steep road that glory to Saint Dominic. This was (departure Stazione Nationale). The
San Francesco drops straight down the hill. But once Fra Angelico’s church and he bus runs every 11 minutes and takes
this time the walk is all downhill lived in the monastery next door 30 minutes to get to Piazza Mino da
The nave at San Fiesole (terminus). A taxi will cost
and the views are fantastic! until the Order was invited by
Francesco – about €20-€25 each way. 
stepping into this
You will pass Villa Medici, Pope Eugenius IV to move to the
dark space from the privately owned, which was built in monastery in Piazza San Marco in
sunlight outside is 1450 and was a favourite place for the 1430s. He and his order duly ABOUT THE WRITER
always a magical otium (leisure), cultural evenings moved from San Domenico to the FREYA MIDDLETON has a
experience and humanist Neoplatonic San Marco monastery, which is wealth of knowledge about
discussions hosted by the Medici conveniently located in the same Florence and offers guided
family in that period. Fast forward Florentine square where you got tours around the city and
beyond. Contact Freya’s Florence Tours,
to the early 1900s and it was the on the bus to start this exciting www.freyasflorence.com
childhood home of writer Iris adventure this morning!

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 71

Welcome to SOUTH TUSCANY

Beach at Marina di
Grosseto in the Maremma

72 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 p86 CASENTINO

SAN GIMIGNANO p82

Welcome to SOUTH TUSCANY

CORTONA p76

SAN GALGANO p84

p74 VAL D’ORCIA

p92 SATURNIA THERMAE

p94 ELBA

THE SOUTH
Travel south of Florence to discover hill-top towns, wide open
spaces, national parks and Elba, Tuscany’s historic island

p74 p76

p86 p94

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 73

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
SOUTHERN TUSCANY Top Ten Val d’Orcia

TOP 10 VAL D’ORCIA

Of the many appealing corners of Tuscany,

Val d’Orcia offers a myriad of riches
to explore. We highlight a selection of
Tuscan treasures from this gilded valley

1 TRUFFLE TIME

San Giovanni d’Asso,

north of San Quirico d’Orcia
www.tartufodisangiovannidasso.it/
During the November truffle fair 2 THE GRAPEVINE 3 THERMAL SPRINGS

weekends you can almost smell the Montalcino, south of Siena Bagno Vignoni, east of Montalcino
village before you see it! The castle The Montalcino denomination is a wine Most villages have a piazza at
houses a truffle museum and the lovers’ paradise offering a diversity of their centre; Bagno Vignoni has a
town puts on a truffle extravaganza taste based on one grape: Sangiovese, 16th-century Medici-built thermal
with pop-up restaurants and shops the jewel in the crown. spring baths. Walk around with
all celebrating the prized local white Try Mastrojanni, swallows diving overhead; paddle
truffle. Neighbouring Montisi has a Salicutti, Ventolaio, in the springs for free on the edge
fine medieval granary to see too. Pian dell’ Orino of the village; or buy a day spa
and much more. ticket at the famed Adler spa.

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 8 WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

RENAISSANCE WONDERS
4 Castiglione d’Orcia and Rocca
Pienza, east of Montalcino d’Orcia, southwest of Pienza
Here you will find Renaissance perfection at The towns of Castiglione and Rocca

SOUTHERN TUSCANY Top Ten Val d’Orcia

Pienza Cathedral and Piccolomini Palace, courtesy d’Orcia loom above the ancient Via
of Pope Pius II and his architect Rosselino. Admire Cassia. The area is wonderful for
while marvelling the myriad versions of local Pecorino cheese, lengthy walks with views of Monte
artisan foods and handicrafts – a real tradition here. Amiata, the constant boundary and
ever-present backdrop to this part
of the world. Linger in the chestnut
5 THE ABBEY HABIT 6 FRESCOES & HERBAL woods in summer and collect these
Castelnuovo del Abate, REMEDIES tawny treasures to roast in autumn.
south of Montalcino Chiusure, south east of Siena
www.antimo.it www.monteolivetomaggiore.it/
Could Sant The distinctive red-brick 8 MEDIEVAL MARVELS

Antimo be Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Montalcino, south of Siena

Tuscany’s Maggiore offers frescoes full of A commanding 564m above sea level, the
most romantic human detail of St Benedict’s medieval walls, 13th-century tower and fortress
abbey? With its life, mostly by Sodoma. The dominate the landscape. Views from the castle
Image © iStock

clean Romanesque monks make herbal remedies are head-spinning; inside, local Brunello wines
lines and nestling among vines and potions and have a good can be sampled. Good quality non-touristy eating
and olives, was it founded by Tuscan restaurant. Nearby and shopping are catered for too. Enjoy medieval
Charlemagne himself ? Daily walled Buonconvento has pageantry with the Torneo della Apertura della
Gregorian plainsong chants add charm. an interesting agricultural Caccia (the opening of hunting season in August)
Neighbouring Castelnuovo del Abate is museum and the Saturday and Festa del Tordo (festival of the thrush).
the perfect walled borgo to explore. market is worth a visit.
Image © iStock

6
1

4
2 9 10
3
8
5
Map data © Google 2023

7
10 FESTIVALS & ROMANESQUE

REMAINS
San Quirico d’Orcia, between
Pienza and Montalcino
7 FINE FOOD, WINES & OILS is a follower of the Slow Food Here you will find Tuscan
Montenero d’Orcia movement. You should also visit medieval walled charm,
www.anticafattoriadelgrottaione.it the Museum of the Wine and Vine with a fine Romanesque
www.museidimaremma.it in the same piazza for historical Collegiate church that is
This delightful town is perched on a context about viniculture before perfect for weddings. Also visit
hillside between Monte Amiata and sampling some wine at the nearby a classic Renaissance formal garden,
the upper Maremma region. Apart winery. Then marvel at the gold- the Horti Leonini, for a pleasant stroll. Festivals
from its castle, it has an exceptional green nectar fresh from the oil include one for new season oil in early December
restaurant (with views) in the Antica press (which supplies Fortnums) and the Festa del Barbarossa in June.
Fattoria del Grottaione, which around the corner.

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SOUTHERN TUSCANY Cortona

Image © iStock

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 THE GENIUS
OF A PLACE

SOUTHERN TUSCANY Cortona

Rachael Martin visits Cortona to meet Sarah Marder, a film-maker
whose documentary explores the changed life of this Tuscan hilltop town

W
hen Sarah Marder first started one of Italy’s most desirable places but one of the
going to Cortona in the 1980s, most desirable destinations in the world. It spawned
she fell in love with a place and a huge business of Tuscan this and Tuscan that –
a time. At this point in her life what mattered was that it was Tuscan. A stream of
she was a young single woman international tourists started to visit.
travelling around Europe, and was delighted to find It reminds me of my own love affair with A Room
such a beautiful place, so totally off the beaten track with a View, and of going to Florence when I first came
and seemingly so lost in time. Since then, Sarah has here years ago and all the time I could hear
spent more than 30 years observing the town of O mio babbino caro playing in my head. There I was
Cortona and went on to make a documentary about on a Tuscan hill with a friend from the UK, laughing
it called The Genius of a Place. at the artists who were painting the view in an effort
The title is an echo of words written by the 18th- to preserve this image of Tuscany that had been
century English poet Alexander Pope: “Consult the conjured up in the collective conscious. Yet in my
genius of a place in all.” To capture changes in the own way I was still painting that view. Italy has a
community over time, the documentary was filmed charm that can be powerfully seductive.
intermittently over four years with Mattia Amadori, Whether it’s Under the Tuscan Sun or A Room
Andrea Corti and Max de Ponti from OLO Creative with a View, cinema has the power to influence our
Farm, a film production team from Como. It’s Sarah’s psyche, and it’s something that Sarah is deeply aware
first film, and since it has been shown in venues all of. “Cortona had been celebrated by Virgil, Goethe
over Italy, and in places such as Matera that shot to and Henry James. Admittedly, at the time there
fame after Mel Gibson filmed The Passion there. were fewer people reading and fewer were travelling.
Not so long ago, Cortona was just another peaceful Yet no written word has had the impact of a film.
and exquisitely beautiful Tuscan village perched on The piazza is the same that’s always been there, but

“It’s not just people who win the lottery,” Sarah says. “Places can win the
lottery too, and then it’s difficult to deal with these circumstances”
the side of a hill. It’s a town with an ancient Etruscan because tourists have seen it in a film they’ve become
history, and a strong connection with spirituality. enchanted by it. That’s the difference.”
This page: Cortona, Generations lived out their lives there, just as The documentary explores the effects of such mass
a pre-Roman town generations do in places all over the world. Then in tourism on the place, and the difficulties in dealing
in the Tuscan hills the 1990s an American writer named Frances Mayes with unexpected prosperity. “It’s not just people who
that has recently went to live there and wrote a book about it. It was are winning the lottery,” Sarah says. “Places can win the
discovered how published in 1996, spent two and a half years on the lottery too, and then it’s surprisingly difficult to deal
attractive it is to
New York Times bestseller list and has been translated with these changed circumstances.”
foreign tourists
into more than thirty languages. Sarah grew up in Kansas and was familiar with
Overleaf; clockwise Under the Tuscan Sun represented the classic agricultural life but when she first visited Cortona,
from top left: Sarah escapist Italian dream, and threw Tuscany onto the she was surprised to see people still using farming
Marder, Max De map, with a result that made everything Tuscan techniques that harked back to a further past than she
Ponti; a quiet day desirable, even the sun itself. It was a promised land would have imagined. She then watched how the town
on the piazza; the that offered beautiful landscapes and opportunities changed as a result of tourism, and how it responded to
town hall; business
has prospered, but
for house renovation, along with a good life and good those tourists’ needs. “It’s the idea of fiction changing
at a price; a quiet food. When the book was made into a film, the dream reality,” Sarah says. “For example, sunflowers are now
back street; Tita; was there for all to see. The result was that Tuscany seen as the symbol of Cortona but traditionally there
Nello – and most specifically Cortona – became not only weren’t vast fields of sunflowers, only fields of things

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 SOUTHERN TUSCANY Cortona

78 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Image © Martina Bragadin Image © Antonio Carloni

Image © Martina Bragadin Image © Antonio Carloni

 Images on this page by Rachael Martin

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 79

SOUTHERN TUSCANY Cortona
 SOUTHERN TUSCANY Cortona

80 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Images on this page © Duiio Peruzzi

 to eat. Yet tourists want to see sunflowers and that’s In many ways, Cortona’s story is a positive one,
what shopkeepers now put in their display windows. Åand in this sense the film empowers people to
But this isn’t the traditional Tuscany.” believe that they can make change. People who live in
communities that work together can make change. It’s
PERCEPTION AND REALITY easy, as you’re sitting there in the heart of a big city, to
It’s this difference between perception and reality forget this and to lose sight both of nature and of the
that Sarah explores in the film: the idea of the Italian restorative power of the earth. The Genius of a Place

SOUTHERN TUSCANY Cortona

dream with its rose-coloured filters and everything explores how our own personal well-being depends
glowing, and the stark reality that often lies behind. on the well-being of the place in which we live. I
New initiatives have started to try to deal with all think of the pollution in Milan and of all the people
this. First there was the Tuscan Sun Festival, a music living there who suffer from bronchial and respiratory
festival co-founded by Frances Mayes and attended by conditions. And it’s not just in Milan but all over
Robert Redford, Jeremy Irons, Anthony Hopkins and northern Italy. Wealth has come, but there is a price.
Sting. On a more local level, a group of young people
founded Cortona on the Move, a photography festival OUR RELATIONSHIP WITH PLACE
taking place in abandoned structures within the town The film raises important questions regarding place,
and now a source of civic pride and engagement. “In our relationship to it, our understanding of a place
a way the documentary is an expression of collective and how best to respect a place. As Sarah tells me,
mourning for our places that change in ways that leave “Nello knows everything about sustainability.” Take
us concerned. That said, we took great pains to tell a water, for example. He grew up alongside his sister
story and make it as entertaining as possible. Often Tita and brother Modesto with a respect for water.
people tell me that it doesn’t feel like a documentary, Water was only used for plants that produced food.
and I take that as a compliment.” Nowadays, water in Cortona is used to fill numerous

“Italians know how to do things better than we do in many ways,” Sarah

says, “but there’s a self-critical attitude and fatalism that gets in the way”
In many ways The Genius of a Place is a love story, swimming pools. The swimming pool is a requirement
of the relationship between a woman and a place, of any self-respecting Tuscan villa, yet there will be a
Cortona; how she fell for its charms, first as a foreigner price. Global mobility is literally destroying the earth,
and then as a mother. It represented an ideal that she whether it be villas in Tuscany with swimming pools,
wanted to be part of and also give to her children. cruise ships in Venice, train journeys through the
A deep awareness of the fragility of all this developed Cinque Terre or boat trips around Sardinia.
into an attention to detail and a desire to record. As I ate dinner in Cortona that evening with
This genuine concern for the future has been friends, I was surrounded by voices from all over the
welcomed by other places around Italy that face world. After dinner, we walked back to our cars along
the same problems. “Italians know how to do things the main street where music was coming from a bar.
better than we do in so many ways,” Sarah tells me, “That’s where the locals go,” my friend told me. The
“but there’s a self-critical attitude and fatalism that idea felt almost incongruous amidst the picture-perfect
sometimes gets in the way. It’s that acceptance of streets and plentiful restaurants. Who knows what the
the idea of è così – that’s the way it is, that’s the way future will really hold for the town’s young?
things are, which ultimately prohibits change.” In the Cortona of the past there were no Tuscan
suns, merely hard work and people who lived out
TOURISM IN CORTONA their lives to the seasons and the land. Sustainability
Images: The old I visit Cortona for the first time on Easter Sunday. was built upon a close relationship with the earth.
way of life with its I’m struck by the beauty of the place, but hit by the “È così la vita,” Nello says towards the end of the film.
traditional farming tourism. Quiet Tuscan villages still exist, and it is “That’s the way life is.” And this is what The Genius
techniques – carts
immediately apparent that Cortona is no longer one of a Place reminds us.
drawn by oxen
and Chianina cows
of them. It’s a place that’s been taken over by others.
being walked to It reminds me of going to the Cinque Terre. Yet
market – is what tourism is essential if people are going to survive. FIND OUT MORE
the tourists have As Sarah says in her film, “Cortona is experimenting ➤ The Genius of a Place is Sarah Marder’s
come to see. Yet, with ways of keeping its body fed and its soul alive.” first film. It studies the development of
precisely because We sit drinking our coffee and agreeing about how tourism in Cortona over the past thirty
they have come, years and the effects it is having on this
the Tuscany of
terrible the pollution levels are that day in the bar in ancient Tuscan town.
their perceptions Milan. “If we all find ways to take care of our little
➤ The film is available to rent or buy
no longer actually places in the world, collectively we can take care of the from Amazon Prime.
exists world,” Sarah tells me. “This is my little contribution.”

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 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

The towers of San

Gimignano graze the
clouds of a cypress-
dotted Tuscan landscape
SOUTHERN TUSCANY San Gimignano

ITALIA!
HERITAGE

M Image © iStock
SAN idway between Siena and
Florence stand the towers
Palazzo del Popolo, offering an intimate
glimpse into 14th-century life.
GIMIGNANO, of San Gimignano, no
modern city skyline but
Piazza della Cisterna, named after the
well that still stands in the square, was the
TUSCANY a sight largely unchanged hub for gathering pilgrims 1,000 years ago,
since the medieval era. Taking advantage of and is still a-buzz with tourists echoing in
The historical centre their hilltop elevation, the wealthiest San the footsteps of those past travellers. The
Gimignano families fortified their palaces imposing medieval city gate still witnesses
of San Gimignano with a total of 72 imposing skyscrapers, not a daily ebb and flow of visitors.
and how its only to provide protection from unsavoury The city enjoyed prosperity until 1348,
downfall became its visitors but also to stand as an outward when a devastating plague set in motion
symbol of their wealth and power. centuries of decline as Florentine politics
architectural saviour Although only 14 towers remain, the gradually stripped San Gimignano of
piazzas, cobbled streets, archways, palaces its wealth and status. Yet this is what
and fountains of this UNESCO-inscribed ultimately preserved it: impoverished
city serve as a time capsule of urban San Gimignano escaped the influence
medieval life. Treasured and celebrated of fashion and architectural innovation
works of art remain in their original that might have razed all these soaring
architectural settings, including Memmo constructions to the ground. To step within
di Filippuccio’s frescoes on the walls of these walls is to travel back in time.

82 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 
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SOUTHERN TUSCANY San Galgano Abbey

84 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

THE ABBEY
OF SAN

SOUTHERN TUSCANY San Galgano Abbey

GALGANO
Step off the beaten track in Tuscany and
pay a visit to the brooding Abbey of San
Galgano, which could hold the secret to
the origins of the Arthurian legend

H
idden in the Tuscan countryside near
the tiny town of Chiusdino is the Valle
Serena. As its name suggests it is a peaceful
valley, where the steeply wooded slopes give way
to a gentler rural landscape. It is here you find the
Abbey of San Galgano – a huge Cistercian edifice,
roofless and windowless these days, lowering under
the heavy skies, but still a place of pilgrimage for
the faithful. A stop-off point for weary pilgrims on
the 1,200-mile Via Francigena from Canterbury to
Rome, this ruined sanctuary conceals a link to the
very British tradition of King Arthur, the Knights
of the Round Table and the sword of Excalibur.
Within the rounded walls of the abbey’s Montesiepi
chapel is a sword, plunged right up to its hilt into a
solid stone. It is said to have been left there by the
eponymous St Galgano, who required a makeshift
altar for his devotions. Did it precede the Arthurian
legend? Is it a hoax? Was King Arthur actually a
Tuscan? Whether you believe in miracle, myth or
magic, just stand awhile and soak up the atmosphere
of this extraordinary site and you’ll leave with more
questions than when you came...

Image © iStock

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 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Head for the Hills

SOUTHERN TUSCANY Hiking in Casentino

Travelling far away from the hustle and bustle of city life, Rachael Martin heads off
the beaten track to find peace and quiet in Tuscany’s Casentino National Park
Image courtesy of the Sanctuary of La Verna archive

86 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

O
nce more, TripAdvisor figures confirm To the east of the park there are the Camaldoli,
that Tuscany is at the forefront of La Verna and the Catenaia Alps mountain ranges,
Italian tourism, and in particular and to the west the Pratomagno massif. In the south,
Florence, which comes in after the River Arno begins on the slopes of Mount

SOUTHERN TUSCANY Hiking in Casentino

Rome as the second most popular Falterona at Capo d’Arno, the mountain spring.
destination in Italy. Of course the problem with these
hotspots is that you will certainly not be visiting alone. UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE
So what if you fancy getting off the beaten track and RECOGNITION
exploring somewhere slightly quieter? One of the largest areas of forests in Europe, the park
You could head for the Casentino or more precisely, straddles both the Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna
the National Park of the Casentino Forests, Monte border in the provinces of Florence, Arezzo and Forlì
Falterona, and Campigna. One of Tuscany’s three and encompasses part of the Apennines.
national parks, it was founded in 1993 and is just 50 At its heart is the Sasso Fratino Nature Reserve
kilometres east of Florence, high up in the Arno valley. that was made Italy’s first Strict Nature Reserve
in 1959 and now has UNESCO world heritage
recognition, listed under “primeval forests of the

Climbing the
hill towards the
Sanctuary of
La Verna

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 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

It’s home to a variety of wildlife

including deer, roe deer,
golden eagles, wolves and the
SOUTHERN TUSCANY Hiking in Casentino

spectacled salamander, and is

a great place to walk, cycle or
explore on horseback

WHEN TO VISIT
Obviously the sanctuary does get busy, and if you visit on
Carpathian beech and other parts of Europe”. It’s home a bank holiday you may not fully be able to appreciate the
to a variety of wildlife including deer, roe deer, golden true atmosphere the place can convey. Wherever possible,
eagles, wolves and the spectacled salamander, and is a do try to organise your schedule to ensure you can visit
great place to walk, cycle or explore on horseback. on any other day, especially if you have spiritual reasons
for visiting. Otherwise, the Feast of the Stigmata is the
BEAUTIFULLY PRESERVED CASTLE sanctuary’s important religious festival that takes place
It’s also home to several castles that were built by the on the 17th of September. It’s popular with pilgrims and
Guidi counts of Poppi, one of the most important especially with young people who take part in a special
Above: Casentino
dynasties of central Italy that dominated large areas vigil that they hold the night before. The Feast of San
lies in a part
of Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna during the medieval Francesco takes place every 4th of October, the date of his of Tuscany that
period until they were defeated by the Florentines death in 1226. He was made a saint two years later in July is about as far
at the Battle of Anghiari in 1440. 1228. On the 18th of July 1939 Pope Pius XXII declared away from the
One of the most striking of these is the beautifully him the patron saint of Italy, “the most Italian of saints, tourist throngs of
preserved castle that dominates the town of Poppi, and the most saintly of Italians”. Florence, Siena
attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio, who also designed And if you can, go in autumn, when the forests take and Pisa as you
could possibly
the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. Dante Alighieri lived on the most beautiful colours, and you can eat the last
imagine, especially
here for a year during his exile from Florence and it figs, and porcini mushrooms and hearty dishes with wild if you manage to
is believed that it was here that he composed the boar, hare, quail and pheasant. go at the right
33rd canto of Inferno. time of year

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 THE SANCTUARY OF LA VERNA

SOUTHERN TUSCANY Hiking in Casentino

The Sanctuary shrouded
in winter snow

Image courtesy of the Sanctuary of La Verna archive

In Canto 11 of Paradiso, the third and final book of his Divine Comedy,
Dante speaks of that “harsh rock between Tiber and Arno where he
received from Christ the last seal, which his limbs bore for two years”.
The “he” Dante speaks of is St Francis of Assisi, and the “last seal” are
the stigmata St Francis received. The harsh rock is the crag on which the
Sanctuary of La Verna is built, high up in the Casentino on Mount Penna,
a sheer drop from which you overlook the beautiful natural landscapes
that the area has to offer. This is where St Francis of Assisi went in summer
1224 and where he asked God to let him experience the Passion of Christ.
His prayers were answered not only spiritually but also physically in the
form of the famous stigmata he received while there, five stigmata for the
five wounds of Christ. La Verna was declared a sacred place and a church
was built. The site is marked nowadays with the Chapel of the Stigmata
that was built in 1263, and by a plaque to show the exact spot.
The cycle of 21 modern frescoes along the Corridor of the Stigmata
leading to the Chapel of the Stigmata show scenes from St Francis’ life a
nd in particular of his time spent at the sanctuary, where you can also
visit the stone slab upon which St Francis used to sleep, now covered
by an iron grill. The chapel contains the famous Crucifixion relief by
Andrea della Robbia, and there other reliefs detailing the life of Christ
Images by Rachael Martin unless otherwise stated

in the Basilica. There’s a museum too that details the life of the monks
through documents and old bibles, and gives a real insight into how the
monks lived. Look out for the cross by Giovanni Angelo Montorsoli and
ceramic bust by Andrea della Robbia.
The friars who live there in the sanctuary today welcome people who
wish to visit the monastery or who wish to take part in the life of the
community through prayer and/or by staying there on a retreat. They also
The Chapel of
sell products made by the friars such as liqueurs, ointments and creams, the Stigmata
infusions and sweets. Full details can be found at www.laverna.it

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A MYSTICAL PLACE
Casentino is a lesser-known area of Tuscany that has
the power to attract and fascinate. It’s a place to take
slowly, for walks through forests, visits to secluded
SOUTHERN TUSCANY Hiking in Casentino

monastic communities and meals of robust local food

in relaxed mountain trattorie. Visit the Casentino
and you’re visiting a mystical place of ancient beech
forests, castles, monasteries and saints. It’s home to
the sanctuary of La Verna, where St Francis reputedly
received the stigmata on the 14th of September 1224
at the Sanctuary of La Verna, and where the monks
still live high up the mountain at the Camaldoli
Heritage. Further north in the province of Forlì-
Cesena in Romagna are the Acquacheta waterfalls
that are quoted by Dante in his Comedy (Inferno
Canto 16). Historically, it was also home to the

THE PEOPLE & THE FOOD

The people of the Casentino are proud of their food. This is
the home of traditional bread-based Tuscan soups such as
acquacotta or minestra di pane (thick minestrone made
with stale bread) and scottiglia, also known as cacciucco
di carne (a stew of various meats), the original cacciucco
being that of fish and from Livorno. Alternatively, go for
tortelli filled with potato, gnocchi with wild mushrooms,
and grilled whole wild mushrooms, While you’re there, also
try the local sambudello casentinese sausage made of pork,
offal and wild fennel sausage.
The area is renowned for chestnuts, and chestnut
flour, used both in polenta and the castagnaccio cake that
also includes pine nuts, walnuts, raisins and rosemary.
Chestnuts are also boiled for a couple of hours and prepared
with wild fennel and known as castagne tigliate.
The Festa di Castagnatura is the local chestnut festival,
which takes place for about three days around the time of
Halloween in Ortignano Raggiolo.

90 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

It’s a place to take Etruscans who inhabited much of Tuscany, Umbria
and northern Lazio, and then went further north to
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
slowly, for walks Lombardy and Veneto, and south as far as Campania.
REFETTERIO DEL PELLEGRINO
La Verna Sanctuary,
through forests, Ruins can be found at Lago degli Idoli or lake of the

SOUTHERN TUSCANY Hiking in Casentino

52010 Chiusi della Verna
idols beneath Mount Falterona that the Etruscans +39 0575 5341
visits to secluded considered sacred near the spring – the Capo d’Arno – www.laverna.it
that is the beginning of the River Arno. It’s considered
monastic to be one of the most important archaeological sites in
The Pilgrim’s Refectory opens all year
and can seat 600 for lunch or dinner.
communities the Casentino. Excavation work began in 1838 and the
remains found here are preserved both in the British
If you wish to eat here, particularly
during weekends or public holidays
and meals of Museum and the Louvre. and other busy periods, you would be
advised to book in advance. It’s plain
robust local CAMALDOLI HERMITAGE home cooking, but worth booking in

food in relaxed The Holy Hermitage and Monastery of Camaldoli

is home to monks of the Camaldolese Benedictine
here if you’re planning to spend a day
at the sanctuary. You can also book a
mountain order and was founded a thousand years ago by St
longer stay.

trattorie Romuald. The monastery itself is in the village of

Camaldoli by the River Archiano. It dates back to
HOTEL RESTAURANT CAMALDOLI
Via Camaldoli, 13 Loc. Camaldoli, Poppi,
1046 and still has the old pharmacy where the monks 52010 Arezzo
+39 0575 556019 
continue to sell their products today. What used to
www.albergoristorantecamaldoli.it
be the original hospital where the monks treated the
If you’re visiting Camaldoli, try the
poor and ill is now a guesthouse. restaurant right opposite the monastery
The Hermitage is a further three kilometres along in the village. This is the oldest
in a remote part of the park in the middle of the restaurant in the town and serves bar
forest, and you only have to go up there to see how snacks such as the famous schiacciata
the place fully embodies the Benedictine values of (Tuscan focaccia) and cakes, or try
contemplation and isolation whilst still aligning it something more substantial such as
with the values of material work and charity. rich pasta dishes with game and meat
Image courtesy of the Hermitage

dishes that include wild boar and local

FIND OUT MORE Chianina beef. The Camaldoli is also
a hotel with very decently priced rooms
➤ See www.parks.it/parco.nazionale.for.casentinesi for further
information about the park, including visitor itineraries. that include triple rooms and the option
of adding an extra bed if required.

Clockwise from
top: Ascending
to the Sanctuary
of La Verna; the
Hermitage of
Camaldoli; the
Hotel Restaurant
Camaldoli; a
place to read and
take coffee at the
Hermitage; Poppi
Castle

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 91

 VIEWPOINT
SOUTHERN TUSCANY CascatedelMulino

The Maremma’s Cascate del Mulino (Cascades of the Mill) are fed by hot spring
waters that flow underground from the site of the Terme di Saturnia Spa…

Just upstream from here, the Terme di Saturnia is as luxurious a spa

resort as you could hope for, but the 37ºC waters that feed it recognise
no owner and the naturally carved limestone pools here at the Mill are
free to use – 24/7, 365 days a year – for anyone who can find them.
They are not as clearly signposted as the spa resort, but they are still
one of the most popular natural attractions in Tuscany.
www.lecascatedisaturnia.com
Words by Jon Palmer

92 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

SOUTHERN TUSCANY CascatedelMulino

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 93

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
SOUTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Elba

Clockwise from
top left:
The backstreets
of Portoferraio
Tasty lasagne
Portoferraio
harbour
A bicycle stands
outside a house
in the old town
Walking on
the beach and
paddle boarding
on the water
Porto Azzurro
and bay from
the Hotel Plaza
The pinetum
at Tenuta delle
Ripalte
Exhibit at the
Archeological
Museum
Granite
outcrops at
Sant’Andrea
Bust of
Napoleon at the
Villa dei Mulini
Diffusers
made from
the pebbles of
Ghiaia beach

94 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 SOUTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Elba
48 HOURS IN…

Portoferraio
Spending a weekend in Elba’s capital Portoferraio is
the best introduction to the island, says Jane Gifford

M
ythology has it that Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of
beauty and love, was visiting one of her many lovers
on the Italian mainland when she accidentally broke
her string of pearls, and in doing so formed the Tuscan
Archipelago, the chain of islands that straddles the
Images by Jane Gifford unless otherwise stated

Tyrrhenian and Ligurian seas between Tuscany and Corsica, of which

Elba is by far the largest. And it was here on Elba, on the island that the
Greeks called Aethalia – and specifically at Le Ghiaie, which we will be
visiting ourselves in due course – that Jason and the Argonauts are said
to have landed after taking the Golden Fleece. They played discus with
the pebbles they found on the beach.
Today the seven islands of the Tuscan Archipelago – Elba, Giglio,
Capraia, Montecristo, Pianosa, Giannutri and Gorgona, plus a few other
uninhabited rocks – are part of a designated marine reserve. You will
also know that Elba was a place of exile for Napoleon Bonaparte; it was
granted to him in return for his abdication as Emperor with the signing
of the Treaty of Fontainebleau in 1814. Beyond this, however, you may
not know much about the place as Elba is a secret that the British are
largely yet to discover. Spending 48 hours in Portoferraio, Elba’s capital,
seems the perfect introduction, and I would recommend visiting out of
season, and especially in May. The sea is warming up but very clean, the
beaches are relatively quiet, and the macchia mediterranea, (le maquis,

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 95

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

ACQUA DELL’ELBA 1
www.acquadellelba.com
Acqua dell’Elba, the island’s perfumer,
SOUTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Elba

creates fragrances based on Elba’s scents

and colours, from deep blue to turquoise.
The business does a lot to sponsor the The lighthouse from Ice cream
arts and the environment in Elba. Napoleon’s Garden stop at Zero
ELBA WINE ROAD 2 at Villa dei Mulini Gradi
www.lastradadelvino.com
The Costa degli Etruschi wine and oil
road is a 150km route that runs along the
mainland Tyrrhenian coast of Tuscany and
also includes the island of Elba. Stop off
at vineyards to enjoy a glass of wine or a
cellar tour, and take in a visit to an olive
mill or hospitality at a local farmhouse.
GET OUT AND ABOUT 3
www.rentchiappi.it The Villa dei Mulini is named Il Teatro dei
www.isoladelbarentboat.it after the windmills that used to stand here Vigilanti
You can pick up a hire car at the ferry
port. Elba is about 27km long and 18km
wide, and has more than 60 beaches to DON’T MISS in French, and sometimes English) Try their wonderful organic ice
discover. The landscape changes quickly LOCAL the wild coastal scrubland, is in cream or cool down with some
with the geology. Rent a boat to see Elba FESTIVALS colourful bloom. granita. The gelateria is popular
from the water for a different perspective. Processions, with the Italians, who know their
music and
See Bartolini in Portoferraio, or in Porto MAGICAL JOURNEY ice cream. There are now six shops
Azzurro take Lady Lillj. fireworks occur
around the
The ferry crossing is magical as dotted around Elba.
THE CHURCH OF THE MISERICORDIA 4 end of April in Elba comes into sight within the Listen to the town waking up:
Salita Napoleone, Portoferraio Portoferraio hour. Woodland carpets the high a woman’s voice announces the
www.misericordiaportoferraio.it to celebrate mountains, while the ruins of the first ferry leaving Elba at six o’clock,
This 18th-century church is tucked away the town’s Castle of Volterraio look over and the whistling street cleaners
on a side street and contains the relics patron saint, the island from a mountain peak. begin work. Portoferraio is spotless
San Cristino.
of San Cristino, the patron saint of
On the 25th of
There is history here: Volterraio is compared to England’s capital.
Portoferraio. Every 5th of May a mass is thought to be of Etruscan origin. Then the anglers, cyclists, moped-
July, La Festa
held in Napoleon’s honour.
del Pescatore
takes place in
Porto Azzurro Napoleon made the town the capital
in honour of
their saint, San
Giacomo.
of Elba and named it Portoferraio
The impressive sight of riders and fishermen begin talking
Church of the
Portoferraio (Iron Port) follows, loudly to one another. The cars
Misericordia
dominated by Forte Falcone to join in, carrying people to work
the east and the lighthouse to the – the buses pass by below and the
FORTE FALCONE 5
Via del Falcone, 7-9 – Portoferraio
west, which was erected in 1788 tourist train rings its bell. Finally,
www.visitaportoferraio.com on 16th-century Forte Stella. cafés around the harbour begin to
Take in the fabulous 360-degree views The harbour is sheltered from fill with customers. You are right
over Portoferraio from this imposing most winds and is said to be the in the centre of the action, looking
Medici fort. Relax under an umbrella. safest in the Mediterranean. Boats towards Napoleon’s Gate, where he
fill the harbour. Pastel-coloured, is reputed first to have entered the
TEATRO DEI VIGILANTI “RENATO CIONI” 6
multi-storeyed buildings line old town in 1814.
Piazza Antonio Gramsci, 1 – Portoferraio
www.visitaportoferraio.com
its circumference, as do many
Napoleon converted this magnificent
harbourside cafés and bars. We THE OLD TOWN
church into a theatre in the early 19th dock around the corner in the ferry The old town, built into the hills
century and it has a programme of port. You can rent a car directly surrounding modern Portoferraio,
performing arts to this day. In 2015 it from here and I hoped to use buses is a 500-year-old maze of alleys and
was dedicated to Renato Cioni, Elba’s but a strike made this unreliable. steep staircases, worn uneven by
famous tenor who died in 2014. Near the ferry port is Zero Gradi. time, lined with churches and tall,

96 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 WHERE TO STAY
PORTO SOLE ROOMS 7
Via delle Galeazze, 30 – Portoferraio
www.elbaportosole.com

SOUTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Elba

This is the place to stay if you want the
best view of Portoferraio harbour and
town. It is not a hotel, as such, but has
Vista over Portoferraio Canine observer on stylish rooms to rent in a listed 19th-
harbour from Forte Falcone Via della Regina century house on the waterfront. The
view is exceptional.
VILLA OMBROSA 8
Forte Falcone Le Ghiaie, where Jason Via Alcide De Gasperi, 9 – Portoferraio
looks over and the Argonauts
www.villaombrosa.it
Portoferraio made landfall
Stay above Le Ghiaie beach with a view
from the east
out to sea at this charming three-star
hotel. Perfectly located within easy
walking distance of the beach and town,
as well as being just a short stroll to the
locals’ favourite beach, La Padulella.
BELMARE HOTEL 9
Strada Provinciale, 25 – Marciana
www.hotelbelmare.it
green-shuttered houses. The steep FORTE FALCONE DON’T MISS Located at the western end of the island,
streets billow with laundry and are Just outside the old town is Forte COSMOPOLI this three-star hotel offers you an
full of surprises, like an orphanage, Falcone, built by the Medicis in the CARD excellent view of Porto Azzurro marina.
a children’s home and the Teatro 16th century. Make the climb up to You can visit Neptune lounges on the pavement next
dei Vigilanti, the theatre built by this imposing fort before it gets too Portoferraio’s door. Spot the pelican and some dolphins
Napoleon for his sister, which was hot. It’s open from 9am to 4pm and major historic on the little pebble beach close by.
once a church. is well worth the effort, rewarding sites with the
HOTEL PLAZA 10
Cosmopoli
Portoferraio has had many you with unbeatable views over Località Fanaletto, Porto Azzurro
Card, including
names: known as Porto Argo Villa dei Mulini, the old town, the www.hotelplazaelba.com
the Medici
according to legend and Fabricia Tyrrhenian Sea, Elba’s mountains fortresses,
This four-star hotel occupies a splendid
by the Romans. Also called and the old harbour. You can also Forte Falcone, cliff-top position with one side
Cosmopolis, after Cosimo de’ see the headland of Capo Bianco il Teatro dei overlooking Porto Azzurro, the other
Medici, the 15th-century banker and Portoferraio’s many beaches. Vigilanti, the pool and the Golfo di Mola. Non-
and politician who established You’ll also find a small museum the Linguella residents are welcome at the restaurant
the Medici family as rulers of dedicated to Cosimo de’ Medici Museum and but you must book. There is a short path
Archaeological down to town from the hotel. The Plaza is
Florence, Napoleon made the town and a snack bar here.
Area, the Roman the left going down the steep switch-
the capital of Elba and named it Forte Falcone was badly back road leading to town.
Villa delle
Portoferraio (The Iron Port). damaged during World War II.
Grotte, and
Follow signs in the old town Built on many levels, it has been the Pinacoteca Hotel
to Villa dei Mulini to discover sympathetically restored. The Foresiana www. Plaza
the place Napoleon called home ramparts are largely original, with visitaporto
while he was in exile on the island. fig trees on the terraces, while ferraio.com
Named after the windmills which prickly pears, planted for the
Napoleon had demolished to tourists, are in bright yellow bloom
build his own residence (which in May and everywhere there are
he shared with his sister Paolina) poppies and purple convolvulus. VILLA OTTONE 11
now serves as museum dedicated A lizard scuttles behind a sign Località Ottone, Portoferraio
to the emperor. It is painted advertising the many rare orchids www.villaottone.com
canary yellow and the garden that grow here. The walk down to A luxury five-star stay near Portoferraio
with fantastic views overlooking the town is steep and often without that was the home of the counts of
Portoferraio’s lighthouse. You can a hand rail – don’t try it in the rain Toscanelli until 1920. It is situated amid
imagine Napoleon looking out to if you have problems with steps! It’s dense chestnut and pine woods, which
sea, plotting his escape. Inside are worth noting that many parts of are still largely undeveloped. Each room
statues, a campaign bed and period the centro storico and Forte Falcone comes with an umbrella, lounger and
towel on the private beach. Relax in
furniture. There is also an old are unsuited to wheelchairs.
style. Both Tenuta delle Ripalte and Villa
wooden lavatory which inevitably On the other side of the town
Ottone do weddings.
conjures images of the man. from the old harbour is Le

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 97

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A ! 9 11 2

13 16
WHERE TO EAT 8 5
ENOTECA GUSTAVINO 12
Via Carducci, 70 – Portoferraio
+39 0565 882347 1 6 4
SOUTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Elba

Seasonal, local fish and vegetable

specialities inside the old town.
€ €
14
12
BAGNI ELBA 13
Via Alcide de Gasperi, 6 – Portoferraio
+39 0565 915178 7
A bar and restaurant right on Ghiaie
beach. And yes, even with the sun gone
down, the sea here really is turquoise.
Map data © Google 2023

Much of the food is raw (carpaccio). It

melts in your mouth and is so fresh.
€ € €
3

Tuna carpaccio at
17 15 10
Bagni Elba

Ghiaie, a white pebbly beach which villa. There are ornate bells and DON’T MISS
is said to be where Jason and his an ancient granite altar outside. LIVE MUSIC
Argonauts landed. Considering Inside are finds from Etruscan, The 23rd
CONSERVERIA TONNINA 14 we are in the centre of town, the Roman and medieval times which European Music
Calata Matteotti, 15 – Portoferraio beach and water is phenomenally document the many millennia that Festival took
www.tonnina.com place across
clean. The colour is accentuated by Elba has been inhabited.
Right on Portoferraio harbour, you can Elba from 28
the white pebbles. They inspired August to 11
buy local tinned tuna and anchovies, artist Alfredo Gioventù, who was PORTO AZZURRO September in
plus there’s a bar and a boutique full of commissioned by Elba’s perfumier, Over the opposite side of the 2022. Many
handmade clothes. Bar La Vela on the
Acqua dell’Elba, to make their island, heading south from concerts are
bay has a perfect view of the marina and
also serves excellent coffee.
diffusers. The pebbles are dotted Portoferraio by car for around held in the
with black tourmaline, which he 20 minutes is Porto Azzurro. It grounds of Forte
OSTERIA LOCANDA CECCONI 15 Falcone and the
imagined could be a message from makes an interesting contrast to Villa Romana
Via Bettino Ricasoli, 21 – Porto Azzurro the sea, musical notes played by the Portoferraio. It too is dominated Della Linguella,
+39 329 138 1159 sea on the pebbles – or maybe the by a fort, the 17th-century Forte not far from the
On the backstreets of Porto Azzurro, try dark flecks are constellations. Giacomo, built by the Spanish as port. www.elba-
Elban specialities like dried cod (baccalà)
Next on the itinerary there is Forte di Longone. From the 19th music.it
and pine-nuts, or a dessert of sweet
Aleatico passito with cantucci to dip in it.
the Archeological Museum in the century this was used as a prison,
I loved the metal sculptures here. Linguella Tower (also known as and became famous for its celebrity
€ € Torre del Martello), a fine example prisoners, mostly those associated
of military architecture built by with the Mafia. The authorities felt
LE VISTE 16 the Medicis to protect the harbour. this gave the place a bad name, so
Via del Falcone, Portoferraio Here, next to the Martello Tower, the town’s name was changed from
www.ristoranteleviste.com
is the excavation of a large Roman Porto Longone to the more gently
Down the cliff-side on a pathway through
trees, on a little beach of white sand and
appealing Porto Azzurro. The
FIND OUT MORE original small fishing village was
stones, directly beneath Forte Falcone
this is a fish restaurant right on the ➤ You can find out more about the enlarged for tourism in the 1950s.
shore, open for lunch and dinner from island at www.visitelba.com, the official Porto Azzurro is built around
April to September. Book ahead. tourist board website for Elba. The café-lined Piazza Mateotti, which
€ € € website is pretty comprehensive, with overlooks the marina. You can rent
a ‘top ten’ of the island’s attractions, a
series of holiday suggestions, and ideas
a boat here by the hour. The streets
DEZLAIF BISTROT 17
Lungomare Alcide De Gasperi, 20 for themed breaks on ‘wellness’ and and square are festooned with
Porto Azzurro ‘charm’, plus in-depth information on jasmine. Some restaurants stand on ➤ KEY TO
Elba’s beaches, its museums, handicrafts stilts above the sea, like Il Delfino RESTAURANT PRICES
+39 331 242 0192 (full meal per person,
Why not have a sundowner in Porto and local products, wine and gastronomy, Verde and La Caravella, some of not including wine)
outdoor sports facilities, annual events the oldest restaurants here. Tour
Azzurro at a waterfront bar in a modern € Up to €25
and the like. There are even links to
development beneath the old fort? the backstreets of the town, where € € €26-€50
current travel and hotel deals.
€ you can enjoy Elban specialities. € € € More than €50

98 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 SOUTHERN TUSCANY 48 Hours in Elba
Schiaccia briaca, Locals stones and
traditional Elban cake minerals for sale

Wine tour at Tenuta delle Ripalte

Green-shuttered houses The main house at

in Portoferraio old town Tenuta delle Ripalte

DON’T MISS You may not see the sea, but away Turn off the main drag and eat at Elba has a reputation for being
WINE STAY from the tourist trail, the food is Da Mario’s. The food is delicious. expensive, especially with current
Tenuta delle less expensive and makes up for any To see the macchia mediterranea exchange rates. It certainly can be,
Ripalte is a wine lack of view. Try the flavoursome at its best, follow the road out of but it’s worth the expense. This
estate on Monte schiaccia briaca, Elban flatbread Capoliveri to Ripalte. It soon turns Tuscan island has it all.
Calamita, with
topped with pine nuts, raisins and into a dirt road, often single-track,
a 19th-century
yellow villa
dried fruit, which used to be made lined with yellow broom, purple GETTING THERE
at its heart. for sailors to take to sea. Aleatico thistles, rock-roses and wild sweet- ➤ BY PLANE
Go glamping, red wine is added to give it the peas, along with poppies, fennel, In summer, you can actually fly to Elba,
rent a villa, characteristic red colour. Wines corn marigolds, white chamomile but only by chartered flight or private
play tennis, go are good: if you like dry white and Queen Anne’s lace. Drive jet. Otherwise fly to Pisa and continue
horse-riding, wine with character, look out for slowly and don’t be put off, as there overland from there.
bike-riding and
rambling, swim
local whites made from DOCG are pull-offs and passing bays. ➤ BY TRAIN
in the pool, tour Ansonica grapes. For red or rosé, Eventually you will be rewarded From Pisa Centrale head for Piombino,
the vineyards, choose wine from Aleatico grapes. by Tenuta delle Ripalte with its the mainland port from where regular
try the wine, or Porto Azzurro capitalises on own private beaches: Calanova, ferries sail to Portoferraio. You may
have to change at Campiglia Marittima,
treat yourself its mineral connections, selling with a restaurant and an extensive though there are direct trains. The
to a stay in the jewellery based on the stones view across the bay towards
villa itself. journey takes between 1 and 2 hours,
found on Elba. There are exclusive 17th-century Forte Focardo; depending on the service. If you’re
www.tenuta
delleripalte.it shops too, such as Locman, whose and Remaiolo, which offers snacks doing the whole journey by train, you
watches are made here on Elba, and in a bar shaded with pines. These could take the Eurostar to Milan then
Acqua dell’Elba, the ubiquitous are reached down steep dirt roads continue to Florence, from where you
can get a bus link to Piombino – about 2
perfume brand that is synonymous by car or with the shuttle bus.
hour 30 minutes.
with the island itself – and with Ripalte’s food is very creative,
19 outlets dotted across the island, drawing on local ingredients and ➤ BY BOAT
it is certainly the souvenir to take served with delicious wines from There are four ferry companies
operating the route between Piombino
home. There are still elements of the estate, which went fully organic
and Portoferraio, plus a hydrofoil
the old town to discover, like the last year. Even the bees are from service. It takes up to an hour to
ghost of the old open-air cinema, Ripalte’s own hives. It’s the little make the crossing. There are also less
which was once popular here. touches that make it memorable frequent ferries from Piombino to Rio
An easy 20-minute walk around – fresh local flowers themed in Marina and Porto Azzurro.
the coast from here is Barbarossa pale blue and white; crisp, white ➤ BY CAR
Beach, named after the 16th- linen table cloths; a pashmina if You can take your car across on the ferry,
century Ottoman pirate. On the you eat outside and it gets a little though Elba’s buses are good (if there
way to Porto Azzurro you pass the cold; straw hats if it’s too warm; isn’t a strike) and there are car, scooter
turning to Capoliveri, a hill-top discreet and obliging service; all the and bicycle hire firms on the island. If
you do bring your own car, you would be
town with a high street rammed indulgent toiletries in your room
wise to book your ferry in advance.
with tourist shops and places to eat. by Acqua dell’Elba.

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 99

Tuscany FOOD & LIVING

Find out about life in

this beautiful region

100 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 Tuscany FOOD & LIVING
FOOD & LIVING
Find out what life in Tuscany has to offer through our regional
guides to property and the very best of local food traditions

p102 p106

p108 p114

TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023 101

 L I V I N G I TA L I A !
FOOD & LIVING Life in Tuscany

Arezzo’s delightful Piazza Grande

dates back well in to the early Middle
Ages, though the architecture we see
here today is mostly 16th-century

102 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

 Living in

FOOD & LIVING Life in Tuscany

Famed for its gorgeous landscapes, perfect little cities
Walking and hiking and stunning art treasures, Tuscany has long been loved
is always a pleasure by international homebuyers. Its property market is as
interesting as ever right now, says Fleur Kinson

T
uscany. The word a great many different countries,
instantly conjures up and while there are still some eye-
visions of an ideal wateringly expensive stretches of
Italy. Renaissance countryside, there is no shortage
cathedrals rising over of more affordable areas. As a very
the terracotta rooftops of jewel-like rough guide to the region’s prices,
cities. Honey-coloured farmhouses you might get a village home
gazing out onto vineyard-striped in the far north or far south for
hills. White sand beaches licked between €50,000 and €150,000,
by the turquoise Med. All these
visions are a reality, although
of course they’re not the whole AT A GLANCE…
picture of this large central Italian ➤ THE REGION
region. There are also the lesser- When we think of Tuscany we
known delights of leafy mountains think of verdant rolling hills dotted
dotted with castles, and wild with centuries-old farmhouses
The food is some of
the best in Italy windswept stretches of deserted radiating late afternoon sunshine
coast. Less delightfully, there are – winding roads lined with tall
thick scrums of tourists to contend cypress trees standing like sentries.
with in some places, and, almost But while this stereotypical ideal
unbelievably, there are one or two does exist here, there is much more
unlovely towns. Tuscany packs in to Tuscany than this, and whether
And there are plenty of an astonishing range and variety. you are looking for a rural retreat,
unspoilt seascapes If there’s one thing this place never a hilltop bolthole or an urban pied-
is, though, it’s boring. à-terre there is plenty of variety
on offer.
THE MARKET ➤ THE CLIMATE
Tuscany’s manifold rural and urban Generally mild, especially by the
delights have long made it Italy’s coast, yet really rather cold inland
most coveted region. There was in the winter, and of course at
a time when it held the dubious higher altitudes. Relatively little
accolade of having the world’s rain, and most of that falling in the
most expensive rural property, and winter months.
when so many British homebuyers ➤ THE CULTURE
had succumbed to the beauty In terms of post-medieval Western
of the Chianti Hills between European culture, Florence is
Florence and Siena that the area unrivalled. But there’s also Siena,
was dubbed ‘Chiantishire’. Today, Lucca, Pisa, Pistoia and more.
foreign buyers in Tuscany hail from

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FOOD & LIVING Life in Tuscany

The Chianti Hills, quintessential

Tuscany, and very expensive Pisa, with its iconic leaning tower

a rural house or urban apartment any time soon. Tuscany offers an Umbria’s beautiful little cities,
in central Tuscany from €200,000 impressive number of international Lake Bolsena and the coast.
upwards, and a barn conversion schools, so we’re also seeing many Central Tuscany, of course, has
or farmhouse in the centre of young families keen on relocating.” been the inspiration for a million
the region for between €500,000 Anna Rivieccio of Tuscany Inside property fantasies. Italy’s classic
and €1,500,000. concurs. She says, “The property rural landscapes are here, especially
Tuscany’s perennial appeal market has been very good over the in the areas immediately north
gives the region an exceptionally last two years despite the pandemic and south of Siena, in the Chianti
robust property market. Whatever and the war in Ukraine. We’ve sold Hills and in the Val d’Orcia. These There’s always
the ups and downs of the world lots of homes.” arrestingly beautiful places have time for gelato
economy, there are always buyers Tuscany’s highest-priced rural
who want a home here. Tuscany RURAL DELIGHTS property. But if you’ve lost your
makes an excellent investment for Most buyers in Tuscany want heart to this gilded stretch and
this reason, and also for the fact a home in its countryside. The your budget isn’t huge, you might
that the region is unlikely ever to posters and postcards focus on still manage to get a home here by
become spoilt or overdeveloped. the heavenly rural landscapes of opting for a small rural house or an
There are sensible legal limits Tuscany’s centre, but there are apartment in a large farmhouse. If
and protections on all building, other rustic areas on the region’s you’re after a whole farmhouse in
ensuring that the look and appeal fringes that you should know about these parts, you might be interested
of Tuscany endures. Any home too. Tuscany is a large place (it’s in a tip from Jeremy Onslow-
you buy in this region is likely about the size of Wales) and it has a Macaulay of Casa and Country, Fresh fruit and
to have a strong re-sale value and, wide variety of landscapes. who says, “East of Florence towards vegetables in abundance
of course, to offer very good Tuscany’s far north is a peaceful the Pontassieve and the Mugello
holiday rental prospects if you area of wooded mountains dotted
choose to hire it out. with old villages and hilltop castles.
How does the market look right The far south, meanwhile, is Lavender fields at Romena Castle,
just outside Pratovecchio
now? Has the recent pandemic a spacious and mystical-feeling
changed things much? Jeremy place of broad open hills and
Onslow-Macaulay of the estate outcrops of volcanic rock. Both
agency Casa and Country says, the far north and far south offer
“I can sum up the current state some of Tuscany’s least expensive
of the market in one word: homes. The far north has proven
booming! We deal predominantly popular with foreign buyers,
with properties in the Tuscan who’ve been attracted to areas
countryside and the demand is such as Garfagnana and Lunigiana
definitely outstripping supply by their low prices and easy access
at the moment. Covid has made to Tuscan cities such as Pisa and
many people realise that they can Lucca. The far south remains less
work from anywhere, so I can’t discovered, but it’s an enchanting
see this market trend changing area with easy access to landlocked

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 FOOD & LIVING Life in Tuscany
Isola Santa provided lodgings Lucca’s cathedral is dedicated
for travellers and pilgrims to St Martin of Tours

cities for visitors and homebuyers restore. Most old rural homes on
are Florence, Siena and Pisa. the market have already been loving
None are cheap, but Florence fixed up by a previous owner. Great
is the highest-priced and you news if you want to start using your
should expect to pay €200,000 rustic retreat immediately, but not
and upward for a centrally-located so great if you want to bring an old
apartment here. However, like building back to life yourself.
all Tuscany’s popular spots, Jeremy Onslow-Macaulay of
The immaculate resort town of Forte dei Florence offers absolutely superb Casa and Country says, “While
Marmi attracts the rich and famous prospects to anyone hoping to offer it’s true that the majority of ‘ruins’
holiday rentals. And like most city in prime locations have already
Valley offers some of the ‘least locations, rental clientele comes been restored, it’s still possible to
expensive’ farmhouses that we year-round, not just in the summer. find a hidden gem. I would say
know of. We have a five-bedroom Anyone looking to buy a home in that the margins of profitability
one with a private pool and olive a lower-priced Tuscan city should are still wide enough to justify the
groves for €950,000.” consider delightful, walled Lucca time and effort spent on restoring
in the north, Arezzo and Cortona a property. A further reason would
SEA AND CITIES in the central east, and Volterra be to take advantage of one of the
Seaside-lovers often overlook in the central west. All are highly new government incentives to
Tuscany, as there are so many other appealing and well-kept places. kickstart the building trade, which
fantastic coastal parts of Italy. But are available to those who decide to
Tuscany’s 150-mile coastline is RESTORE TO ORDER take primacy residency in Tuscany.”
worth knowing about, whether Many buyers’ ultimate property So restoring an old home is
you’re buying on the beach or fantasy is to buy a tumbledown still a dream you can make reality
aiming for a rural retreat a few old farmhouse and turn it into in Tuscany if you do a careful
miles inland. Tuscany’s the home of their dreams – property search. However, Anna
coast can be usefully divided into a designing the layout of rooms, Rivieccio of Inside Tuscany
northern and southern half, choosing lovely building materials, cautions against falling in love
with the well-developed north landscaping the grounds, et cetera. with a tumbledown house in too
being quite pricey for property. This fantasy has been made a remote a location. “You can find
The wild and empty southern reality in Tuscany so often now some great bargains in very remote
seaside, meanwhile, offers that there aren’t a great many areas, at the ends of the world, but
great bargains for the coastal tumbledown properties left to homes in these locations can be
homehunter. Tuscany has several much harder to sell later on,” she
gorgeous islands to consider too, USEFUL CONTACTS says. Anna also advises buyers to
such as Elba and Giglio, but be aware that the cost of building
do be aware that these can be www.casaandcountry.com materials has increased and she
www.casatravella.com
expensive places for homes. recommends getting a precise
www.finetuscany.com
As you can probably guess, www.tuscanyinside.it
estimate for your full restoration
the three most popular Tuscan project work before it starts.

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TUSCANY REGIONAL GUIDE

FOOD & LIVING Life in Tuscany

1
2
4

Carrara, where the marble comes from INTRODUCTION arm and a leg. Here we highlight the
main areas, and some more off-the-
Tuscany remains the most popular beaten-track locations.
of Italian regions and is loved by
tourists and would-be property NORTH OF LUCCA
buyers for many reasons, not least
because of its beautiful countryside 1 Liguria borders the head of
and cities laden with Renaissance this part of Tuscany while Emilia-
treasures and historic monuments. Romagna sits at its back. The two
But while property prices remain dominant areas are the coast and the
high, the allure does not wane, and mountains, the Apuan Alps and the
enthusiastic Italophiles still flock to Apennines. If you want to explore
the idyllic region. The good news is the seaside resorts, you should pay
that appealing properties can still be a visit to Forte dei Marmi, with its
found in abundance and, as Tuscany imposing fortress, and Viareggio,
is a pretty large region, the patient the heart of the northern Tuscan
and persistent will find some hidden Riviera. Move inland to Abetone,
nuggets that don’t have to cost an north of Pistoia, for good skiing.

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Two important valleys cut a swathe the memorable yearly procession
through the area’s mighty chestnut and ‘Joust of the Saracens’, and
forests, the Garfagnana, north the monthly antiques fair. On the
of Lucca, and the Mugello, above Umbrian border is Sansepolcro,
Florence. Marble is still quarried at home of Renaissance painter Piero
Massa and Carrara, near the coast, della Francesca. Off the culture

FOOD & LIVING Life in Tuscany

and is the same stone that was used trail, the busy roads of the Arno
by the maestro Michelangelo for his Valley will take you to a host of
sculptures all those centuries ago. designer outlets for a big shopping
Further south is Lucca, a treasure experience. Further south, Cortona
trove of monuments such as the enjoys tourists at its annual
16th-century ramparts and remnants summer Tuscan Sun Festival, while
of the Romans in the Via Fillungo atmospheric Chiusi, amid more
and the Old Forum. Travel east to gentle rolling countryside, offers its
Montecatini and its thermal waters, Etruscan past as a cultural draw.
and to medieval Pistoia, which is
lush with attractive flower and tree PISA AND THE WEST
nurseries.
4 Tuscany’s long western coastline
FLORENCE stretches from Pisa, with its naval Florence is a real tourist magnet
history, Romanesque architecture
2 What more can be said about and iconic monuments, to the
Florence, birthplace of the other side of the stunning Parco architectural gems to enjoy. And
Renaissance and regional capital Naturale della Maremma in the don’t forget the famous Leaning
of Tuscany? Magnificent, peerless, south. Along the coast in between Tower, a landmark of Pisa that is
breathtaking would be just a are numerous picturesque fishing known around the world.
few words you could use of this villages such as San Vincenzo and
city laden with art treasures and the more upmarket Castiglione della SOUTH OF SIENA
cultural monuments. In the 18th Pescaia, with its medieval fortress
and 19th centuries the city was and views of the idyllic isle of Elba. 5 Historic Siena is one of Tuscany’s,
awash with Italophiles indulging There are less fragrant watering and Italy’s, biggest attractions,
in the ‘Grand Tour’, and the influx holes too, but these are more than with its cuisine, museums and
has never abated. As a result, the overshadowed by the other sights of medieval architecture. It is a town
city can become very crowded, but the area, which offer much contrast. passionately attached to its identity
the Florentine hills are close by, The area is steeped in Etruscan and has its own unique traditions,
where merchants in medieval times lore – for example at Roselle, north such as the biannual Palio horse
used to retire to in the heat of the of Grosseto. This ancient site went race. To the south of the city, the
summer. Humidity can be high through unhappy times when it three important zones are the Val
in the summer, and fog dense in sank to become a malarial swamp d’Orcia, Monte Amiata and the
the winter, as the Arno River runs overrun by cattle rustlers. But after ‘deep south’. Move a little closer to
through the city’s centre, and the the swamp was drained in the 1930s, the Lazio border and you will find
mountains are close by, so winter, the perimeter wall was revealed, and villages like Pitigliano, Sovana
early spring and late autumn are other special ruins, so better times and Saturnia nestling amid the
some of the best times of the year and prosperity returned to the area. wooded hills, while the mountain
to visit and pay homage to the many A little further north is Bolgheri, pastures of Monte Amiata are
delights on display. a pretty village that is approached alive with flowers in spring. Winter
through a five-kilometre avenue skiing around Piancastagnaio and
AREZZO AND THE EAST of 200-year-old cypresses; and the Arcidosso is very good, and Castel
‘Super Tuscan’ wine Sassicaia is del Piano, Abbadia San Salvatore
3 In the densely wooded northeast made here. A great draw of Tuscany, and Santa Fiora all offer historic
above Arezzo, the scenic Casentino and this area in particular, is the medieval centres to enjoy. Travel
Valley continues up to Poppi and native vegetation – Mediterranean south towards the Val d’Orcia and
Bibbiena. The countryside is scrub and roads lined with elegant vineyards, olive groves, woodland
dotted with medieval fortifications umbrella pines that are endlessly and lush fields create a mesmerising
and three religious sites of note: appealing to visitors. Move a little patchwork, while delightful villages
Vallombrosa, Camaldoli and La inland and you’ll find Volterra and in the area include Montepulciano
Verna. At Arezzo, visitors can enjoy Massa Marittima, both with great and Montalcino.

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FOOD AND LIVING Tuscany on a Plate

Olives, bread and wine form the ‘Trinity of the Table’ in Tuscany, and there is an impressive supporting cast
behind them too. Wanda Djebbar explains just what it is that makes Tuscan cooking so good…

Cecina flatbread made Eating is a Sformatino (soufflé)

from chickpeas celebration with broad beans

Local seasonal produce Testaroli from An ancient

for maximum flavour Pontremoli Tuscan olive tree

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 FOOD AND LIVING Tuscany on a Plate
At the farmer’s market Unsalted bread is typically Tuscan

Local wine is an Schiacciata all’uva is a

essential ingredient harvest-time treat

Image © iStock
The olive stands
at centre stage

W
ith the region’s great for frying – the soffritto – to the joys bread grated into crumbs it enriched and
agricultural heritage, of newly pressed oil being poured (not thickened dishes and was even served
it is not surprising ‘drizzled’) over a hot toasted bruschetta; with pasta as pici con briciole.
that Tuscan food from the dip for early raw vegetables Soups invariably come served over a
is strongly linked in pinzimonio to the ‘benediction’ of slice of bread, stale or toasted. Crostini
to the land. Most Tuscan dishes are not oil over beans or soup, and warm, oil- are the archetypal Tuscan appetiser. The
‘refined’, in either sense of the word. bathed schiacciata bread coming out other typical antipasto of cured meats is
La cucina toscana is peasant food of of the oven, Tuscan oil is essential. said to be one of the reasons for Tuscan
ingenuity, made with unrefined, natural The principal varieties of olives in bread being unsalted. Who wants slices
foodstuffs raised, grown, foraged or Tuscany are frantoio, leccino, moraiolo, of already well-salted prosciutto toscano or
fished in Tuscany. So what foods are correggiolo, pendolino and the olivastra capocollo served with salty bread?
essential to the Tuscan table? seggianese, of Monte Amiata. But olive If you want salt in your bread, then buy
groves are seldom single-variety; it is the (or make) some good Tuscan schiacciata,
OLIVES judicious mix of varieties that contributes well-oiled and with salt flakes on top.
First has to be the emblematic olive, to the unique taste of Tuscan oil. Tuscan You may even find one of the now rare
and especially the oil it produces. It is olive oil should be rich and fruity with versions with ciccioli, little fragments of
impossible to overstate how fundamental herbaceous notes, a distinct artichoke crisped pork (from rendering the fat).
this is to Tuscan food. First-pressing, flavour and a peppery aftertaste. Always
extra-virgin olive oil is not a ‘cooking take the opportunity to taste small WINE
medium’, nor something reserved for producers’ oils – each area and each The third item completing the Tuscan
salads. It is an ingredient that contributes year will see subtle variations. triumvirate of taste is not a food
much to the flavour (and nutritional but a drink, though it too has been
Images by Wanda Djebbar unless otherwise stated

goodness) of the dishes it is used in. BREAD fundamental to the diet of people
There are precious few Tuscan dishes Next must be bread, something you will living in Tuscany for millennia.
in which oil is not used. meet at every meal – indeed, in one form Eating without wine is alien to Tuscan
Traditionally, even sweet dishes or another it often was the meal! From tradition. The wine may be watered down
would often use oil rather than butter, bread moistened with wine or milk for to become acquerello and drunk sparingly,
and simple sweet treats such as cenci breakfast to dishes such as summer staples but it will, one hopes, still be a genuine,
and fritters would be fried in oil. The panzanella (tomato and stale, soaked unadulterated wine from grapes grown
olive-oil pastry of sfratti from Pitigliano, bread salad, heavy on the oil) or pappa al nearby. And it will be good wine. Given
surrounding the walnut and honey filling, pomodoro (stale bread and tomato soup), that some parts of Tuscany are favoured
is a delicious example. From the base bread was never ever wasted. As stale with some of the finest growing

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LOCAL SPECIALITIES
Even within Tuscany, there are some
interesting regional variations…
FLORENCE
FOOD AND LIVING Tuscany on a Plate

Florence is the home of the costoluto

fiorentino tomato, and of the luxury
semifreddo dessert zuccotto, which
is full of cream, candied fruit and the
local shocking-pink Alchermes liqueur Wheat is well-suited to the
– an exception to the tradition of climate and soil of Tuscany
cucina povera! Try also the bistecca
alla fiorentina, cooked alla brace
(on the grill). A favourite street conditions a grapevine could hope to meet, Often served with hard-boiled eggs, these
food is lampredotto, tripe cooked and that wine-making expertise has had foraged small, fresh leaves will wake up
in broth and served in a roll. Not to several millennia to evolve here, it should be! the taste buds after winter! Game is another
your taste? Visit a bakery during part of the much-prized wild Tuscan harvest.
the grape harvest for a slice of GRAINS Pheasant, venison, hare and wild boar all
schiacciata all’uva (grape bread). As well as wheat for bread, other ancient have traditional dishes and products –
And of course, the wines of Chianti grains play a part in what you will eat in make sure you try the wild boar salame.
need no introduction! Tuscany. Farro (emmer wheat) is enjoying
PISA a revival and you will certainly find zuppa FRUIT AND VEGETABLES
Food in Pisa reflects its maritime di farro e fagioli (emmer wheat and bean Verdure e frutta, (vegetables and fruit), the
history, with elvers (baby eels) soup) and insalata di farro (emmer wheat produce of the orto, kitchen garden, have
sometimes on the menu. The zuppa salad) on menus once again. always played a vital part in Tuscan cooking.
alla pisana, based on bread and Granturco is maize, which, while not Up until the last half century, meat was only
beans, is exemplary Tuscan thrift. being as ubiquitous as it is in the northern an occasional visitor to the average Tuscan
Try too a slice of torta co’ bischeri, ‘polenta belt’, is definitely used as human plate. Each seasonal vegetable or fruit is given
with rice and chocolate filling, in food, and is not just for the fowl. There is in due consideration when it arrives fresh from
a smart pasticceria. Some of the
fact an old recipe for gnocchi di polenta that the plant. From the simplest tomato salad to
finest chocolates in Italy are made by
Amedei, based in Pisa, while another
you may be lucky enough to find – this is a the tiny, raw broad beans served with young
local sweet treat is the frittelle di riso
tasty, traditional levafame (‘hunger reliever’). pecorino cheese, from raw artichoke salad or
served at Carnival time. sformatino of asparagus to wild greens, saltato
BEANS in padella, seasonality and freshness is all.
LIVORNO Not for nothing are the Tuscans known Both sformatino (a type of soufflé) and
The coastal city of Livorno contributes as ‘Bean Eaters’. The bean was probably frittata (slow-cooked omelette) demonstrate
Tuscany’s most famous fish soup,
the main source of protein in the diet of the Tuscan love of young seasonal vegetables
cacciucco – with one letter ‘C’ for
each of the fish that it should contain
ordinary people until the post-war period. – artichokes, peas, broad beans, asparagus,
(we make that five!). Served over the
The memory of fagioli al fiasco, beans cardoon, wild greens and zucchini all play
obligatory slice of bread rubbed with cooked overnight in a flask in the embers starring roles on the plate.
garlic, it is a fragrant meal in a bowl. of the wood fire will still bring a smile to Respect for onions can be seen by the
Cecina, a chickpea-flour flatbread, Tuscan faces. There are a number of heritage survival of various heritage varieties and such
is a popular street food, while wines varieties of bean available here, from the dishes as stuffed onions, and the glorious
from Bolgheri are at the other end small, yellowy sorano (DOP) to the near- carabaccia, onion (and bread!) soup.
of the price spectrum! extinct fagiolo della montagna from Amiata.
The beautiful borlotto is also much prized PECORINO AND RICOTTA
Continued over the page… and is often used interchangeably with Pecorino and ricotta are staples in the
cannellino-type beans. Tuscan kitchen. Farming was mixed and
most farmers had a few milking sheep,
THE WILD HARVEST whose milk they preserved by turning it
Tuscans use the outdoors as a dispensa into cheese, sometimes using a vegetarian
(pantry). They are ardent foragers, formerly rennet made from artichokes. The pecorino
by necessity and now by choice. “Andiamo cheese made by the massaia (farmer’s wife)
cercare funghi” – “Let’s go looking for represented a source of income when
mushrooms” – is a phrase that makes Tuscan sold at markets, so it was used sparingly.
eyes light up. Fungi are still the favourite Pecorino can be aged and matured in
thing to forage for, but look out for willowy various ways. Olive-oil sediment, tomato
wild asparagus, chestnuts, juniper, capers, paste, walnut leaves, hay and even wine
fennel, various berries and ingredients for pressings are just some of the traditional
that spring favourite, insalata di campo. ways of maturing the cheeses. Pici cacio

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 FOOD AND LIVING Tuscany on a Plate
Raw artichoke salad is a speciality Pumpkins are plentiful in autumn Tomatoes growing in a kitchen garden

You must try asparagus with pecorino Insalata di farro Beautiful borlotti beans

Artichoke frittata Chick peas provide protein A porcino mushroom

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LOCAL SPECIALITIES
SIENA
Siena is noted for its distinctive
sweet, baked goods, many of which
date to medieval times. Taste rich
FOOD AND LIVING Tuscany on a Plate

panforte, light almond ricciarelli

and dense cavallucci… Nannini,
in the heart of town, is one of the
best places to go. In season, pan co’ Truffles turn up in all sorts of places
santi (an enriched bread) or pan di
ramerino should be sampled. Siena The sheep’s cheese of Tuscany
is also justly proud of its rare breed is a source of great pride
cinta senese pig – look out for hams,
salami and other products. At Pienza,
pecorino is paramount, while in the
surrounding Val d’Orcia – and around
San Gimignano too – you will find
saffron being cultivated.
GROSSETO
Coastal southern Tuscany has the
best of land and sea. Vegetables,
especially asparagus, grow perfectly,
while the sea itself provides
femminelle for crab soup and eel.
Smoked bottarga (cured fish roe –
mainly mullet) is perfect on pasta or
served just drizzled with oil.
LUCCA
Sulla clover is grown for honey bees
There is a saying that ‘to visit Lucca
without eating buccellato is as if you
had not visited’. This sweet, enriched
bread is moreish. Chestnut products
from the Garfagnana are widespread
– buy some farina di neccio (chestnut
flour) while you’re here too.
PISTOIA
Fagioli di Sorana heritage beans will
be found, along with hearty soups
and stews such as farinata di cavolo
nero and carcerato bread soup.
Aniseed-flavoured brigidini wafers
will be found here – and at fairs all
around Tuscany.
AREZZO
The cece piccolo del Valdarno is
a heritage variety of chick pea.
Gnocchi di ricotta del Casentino
are worth seeking out. The local
chestnuts are good too.

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Ricotta is a happy by-
product of cheese-making

A wide variety of
woods are used in
Tuscan cooking

Image © iStock
Image © Getty

The fruit of the strawberry tree Truffles! And plenty of them…

e pepe is a delicious example of how pudding. And if you’re fortunate to find still used in Tuscany and worth seeking
pecorino is used to best advantage. It necci (chestnut-flour pancakes) on the out. Do not imagine that all wood is the
should also be the cheese element in menu stuffed with ricotta, it would be same, either. You will be firmly told that
any besciamella (béchamel) for a light- a mistake not to sample them. different woods give different effects and
as-air fresh lasagna, with asparagus or flavours. From the broom bushes or olive
pumpkin, or scattered over pici all’aglione
and other non-fish primi piatti. Farming was mixed twigs that one uses to start a wood-fired
oven to the (holm) oak or olive wood
Nowadays, pecorini also come into
their own on the cheese board. Do not
pass up the opportunity to try the range
and most farmers that go to make embers for a bistecca alla
fiorentina, wood matters!

of ages and flavours often now served

with Tuscany’s exceptional raw artisan
had a few milking TRUFFLES
Truffles! After emphasising the ‘waste not
honeys such as corbezzolo (strawberry
tree) or edera (ivy!). You may even be sheep, whose milk want not’ ethic of Tuscan cooking you
might think that tartufi are out of place.
lucky to find a gelatina (jelly) of Brunello
or Chianti wine to go with the cheese.
Ricotta, skimmed-off and re-boiled
they preserved by Not so. They are, after all, a naturally
growing, seasonal foodstuff, and highly
sought after. However, you are unlikely
whey, is a much-used by-product of
cheese-making. It is used abundantly
(it needs to be used up quickly while
turning it into cheese to find one for yourself and will have to
rely on a trusty tartufaio who knows the
woods like the back of his hand.
still fresh) in everything from sweet WOOD San Miniato and San Giovanni d’Asso
cakes such as torta di ricotta e pinoli You may think that suggesting legna are both locations in Tuscany with serious
(ricotta and pine nut cake) to savoury (wood) in a list of Tuscan food is very truffle traditions and reputations. Look
pies and pasta fillings such as the tortelli strange. I would contend that it is not! for a simple dish of tagliatelle al tartufo,
alla maremmana, a ricotta and spinach Wood as a cooking fuel gives many or a risotto or steak with a truffle shower
parcel recipe originating in the Maremma. Tuscan dishes an extra dimension and over it; humble scrambled eggs will be
Farm-fresh ricotta on a slice of bread flavour. A forno a legna (wood-fired oven) transported to a higher plane, as will an
sprinkled with salt or sugar makes a good or food cooked alla brace (over wood omelette. Indeed, being simple, seasonal
breakfast or merenda (snack), while the embers) or a dish cooked in a cucina and honest, the truffle is quintessentially
freshest ricotta in a small bowl, drizzled economica (a wood-fired cooking stove) Tuscan. These qualities are the hallmarks
with best raw honey, is a perfect no-work all give different, ancient qualities. All are of the bounteous Tuscan kitchen.

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 C O O K I TA L I A !

Cantucci biscuits
Biscotti cantucci
Tuscan Biscuits

For an authentic taste of Tuscany

at home, why not make a batch
of these traditional cantucci?
Sweet, crisp and irresistible!

C
FOOD & LIVING

antucci are said to have

been invented in 1858
by Antonio Mattei in
his artisan biscottificio
(biscuit shop) on Via
Ricasoli in Prato. The shop is still open
today. Cantucci biscuits are a Tuscan
heirloom and there is no better way to
end a Tuscan meal than to dunk a few
biscuits into a glass of local Vin Santo.
Or why not make a Tuscan-inspired
These crunchy
cheesecake, using cantucci biscuits for
treats are the the crumb base, topped with mascarpone
perfect way to cream and chocolate. Also, if you happen
round off a meal to be in Tuscany soon, you could buy
your chocolate from the ‘chocolate
valley’, an area that stretches from Prato
to Pisa, and is becoming renowned for
the quality of its produce.

➤ MAKES about 30 biscuits

➤ PREPARATION 15 minutes
➤ COOKING 30-35 minutes

• 500g plain flour

• 300g caster sugar
• a pinch of salt
• 4 free range eggs
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 300g whole almonds
• 50g pine nuts
• 4 tbsp aniseed liqueur or Vin Santo
• milk, for brushing

1 Preheat the oven to 150ºC/Gas Mark 2.

2 Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl
to form a dough. Shape the dough into two
long logs, each about 3cm wide, then transfer
to a lined baking tray.
3 Brush the tops of the logs with a little milk,
Recipe by Mario Matassa

then bake in the oven for 30-35 minutes.

4 Once cooked, remove from the oven and using
a sharp knife, cut the biscuits on the diagonal
about 2.5cm thick. Once cut, leave to cool
completely on a wire rack before eating.

114 TUSCANY & FLORENCE 2023

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